| Username: | Message: |
|---|
| gallery1 (128hp) |
|
| 230101 (595hp) |
|
| ratatouille (684hp) |
|
| polka (518hp) |
|
| 140681 (769hp) | My 2015 528i has a check engine light that an independent mechanic says indicates a bad thermostat with his scanner. Should I buy an OEM thermostat or should I buy a replacement one? I think the mechanic mentioned that if I were to purchase it from him, he would purchase a replacement thermostat that starts with the letter "B".'.
|
| maniez (596hp) | They are cheap, buy OEM
|
| bozkurt (858hp) | Quote: Originally posted by Trian They are cheap, buy OEM +1 to ^this^
|
| a23456789 (908hp) | I would recommend this. They do it for BMW 528i. https://www.fcpeuro.com/products/bmw...at-11537633476
|
| chicano (188hp) | +1. Mahle is famous. Meyle is not.
|
| shivbaba (582hp) | Quote: Originally posted by Hoa I would recommend this. They do it for BMW 528i. https://www.fcpeuro.com/products/bmw...at-11537633476 +1 to this!
|
| maxchislov (606hp) | Quote: Originally posted by Hoa I would recommend this. They do it for BMW 528i. https://www.fcpeuro.com/products/bmw...at-11537633476 Would you say this item is better than the original part or is it purely a matter of saving money that you recommend to me to buy this brand of thermostat? The reason is that what I'm looking for is not so much about money as it is about quality..
|
| smother (906hp) | Quote: Originally Posted by BMWM3DREAM Would you say this item is better than the OEM part or is it just a matter of saving money that you recommend I buy this brand of thermostat? The reason is that what I'm looking for is not so much about money as it is about quality. They produce it for BMW. They sell it under their own brand without BMW logo so it's cheaper.
|
| 22031975 (492hp) | My 2015 528i has a check engine light that an independent mechanic says indicates a bad thermostat with his scanner. Should I buy an OEM thermostat or should I buy a replacement one? I think the mechanic mentioned that if I were to purchase it from him, he would purchase a replacement thermostat that starts with the letter "B".'.
|
| marvellous (666hp) | They are cheap, buy OEM
|
| tinydancer (12hp) | Quote: Originally posted by Trian They are cheap, buy OEM +1 to ^this^
|
| coffee (814hp) | I would recommend this. They do it for BMW 528i. https://www.fcpeuro.com/products/bmw...at-11537633476
|
| mimi11 (585hp) | +1. Mahle is famous. Meyle is not.
|
| 12qw12 (219hp) | Quote: Originally posted by Hoa I would recommend this. They do it for BMW 528i. https://www.fcpeuro.com/products/bmw...at-11537633476 +1 to this!
|
| luvya1 (701hp) | Quote: Originally posted by Hoa I would recommend this. They do it for BMW 528i. https://www.fcpeuro.com/products/bmw...at-11537633476 Would you say this item is better than the OEM part or is it purely a matter of saving money that you recommend I get buy this brand of thermostat? The reason is that what I'm looking for is not so much about money as it is about quality..
|
| viki (3hp) | Quote: Originally Posted by BMWM3DREAM Would you say this item is better than the OEM part or is it just a matter of saving money that you recommend I buy this brand of thermostat? The reason is that what I'm looking for is not so much about money as it is about quality. They produce it for BMW. They sell it under their own brand without BMW logo so it's cheaper.
|
| 56 (79hp) | I have several misfires, mainly cylinders 6 and 8, now it says 5 and 1 too. I thought it was the hpfp 2 bank, so I threw that on it, all the coils and plugs are already new. Lpfp is that the new maf sensors are correct, I run a p0171. and an 11A102 (Fuel high pressure 2: Pressure too low) ideas???
|
| 550Driver (966hp) | Be sure to check that your coil packs and fuel injectors are installed correctly. The most common problem is that they are incorrectly installed by mistake..
|
| bubamara (138hp) | I'm going to check that even though I didn't touch it before all this, did you see anything before, especially after I swapped the coils and the whole 9 meters, I made sure they were plugged in
|
| paulie1 (507hp) | Quote: Originally posted by f10nate I'm going to check that even though I didn't touch it before all this, did you see anything before, especially after swapping the spools and the whole 9 yards, I made sure that they were connected. Running Custom Fuel Maps/Tunes?
|
| 198402 (981hp) | Non
|
| jingles1 (689hp) | How many kilometers with the car? Did cylinders 1 and 5 misfire after installing the coils? Possibly faulty coils?
|
| piyush (823hp) | Quote: Originally posted by f10nate There are 121k on it but I rebuilt it so there are a few hundred now I also checked the compression
|
| tacobell2 (250hp) | I have several misfires, mainly cylinders 6 and 8, now it says 5 and 1 too. I thought it was the hpfp 2 bank, so I threw that on it, all the coils and plugs are already new. Lpfp is that the new maf sensors are correct, I run a p0171. and an 11A102 (Fuel high pressure 2: Pressure too low) ideas???
|
| 021093 (728hp) | Be sure to check that your coil packs and fuel injectors are installed correctly. The most common problem is that they are incorrectly installed by mistake..
|
| guwahati (985hp) | I'm going to check that even though I didn't touch it before all this, did you see anything before, especially after I swapped the coils and the whole 9 meters, I made sure they were plugged in
|
| 1802 (532hp) | Quote: Originally posted by f10nate I'm going to check that even though I didn't touch it before all this, did you see anything before, especially after swapping the spools and the whole 9 yards, I made sure that they were connected. Running Custom Fuel Maps/Tunes?
|
| kotovichvalentina (565hp) | Non
|
| seamus (578hp) | How many kilometers with the car? Did cylinders 1 and 5 misfire after installing the coils? Possibly faulty coils?
|
| splash1 (577hp) | Quote: Originally posted by f10nate There are 121k on it but I rebuilt it so there are a few hundred now I also checked the compression
|
| be1ieve1111 (577hp) | What pieces will remove cellophane for cat-free downspouts? No county of issue and I have a guy for inspection so I won't need to put them back. Looking to harness the power of chatless and remove the inevitable cell.
|
| 201089 (543hp) | What pieces will remove cellophane for cat-free downspouts? No county of issue and I have a guy for inspection so I won't need to put them back. Looking to harness the power of chatless and remove the inevitable cell.
|
| theduke (656hp) | I have an intermittent whining noise when driving. There does not appear to be any specific condition that causes this. It just happens randomly. It seems to be between 60 and 110 km and more. I can feel it in the steering wheel and floor as well as a high frequency vibration. The best I can describe the noise is the whine of a hydraulic pump which I can also feel. A few friends said a power steering pump, since mine still has hydraulic power steering. But I thought I'd ask here too. THANKS.
|
| sebastian123 (467hp) | I'm also trying to track down a moan and will probably post a new subtopic for my problem. Basically, it's intermittent and only happens in the first 2 or 3 gears and only around 2000 rpm. It's more of a whirring or fluttering sound that accompanies the engine noises, but just seems more obvious. This only happens when driving and not idling and disappears after 2nd or 3rd gear. In addition, it happens whether I am in eco pro, or in sport and it happens whether the air conditioning is on or off. I changed my serpentine belt and pulleys, but I haven't changed my motor mounts yet. Is it possible that it is the guibo? The noise seems to come more from the engine side. I have a 2012 535i (N55) with 140K on it. I should also point out that there is no negligible problem with the performance of the car, it runs and drives great and there are no oil leaks. There are no mods on the engine, external or ECU. Let us know if you discover the problem. Updated 10/14/2024 - So I tried listening to the sound again last night and I could barely hear it in the park. Same symptoms as before when driving up to 2nd/3rd, but now I can hear it faintly in park, leading me to believe it is isolated to the engine versus the transmission. This happens exactly at 1500 rpm in park.
|
| Joeker (73hp) | I'm still looking for this solution. The rabbit hole I find myself in now has to do with a similar problem I researched from the F30 guys. Apparently BMW issued a TSB on this, something related to the low pressure air conditioning hose and the use of harmonic weights to eliminate the noise..
|
| mildseven (371hp) | I had a whining sound coming from the PCV and replaced the valve cover. I corrected it. Maybe just one of the possibilities.
|
| Slickrick2 (336hp) | Yeah, so the harmonic weight issue of the low pressure A/C hose wasn't the problem. I was about to order a valve cover, engine mounts, spark plugs, ignition coils, etc., but decided to look through my repair receipt file from the previous owner ( I bought it from him 3 years ago). Literally 6 months before he sold it to me, all that work was done! Anyway, I wanted to let you all know that I sort of fixed the problem last night. Frustrated, I pulled out my ISTA diagnostic tool. Mind you, I have no reason to think there is an ECU problem since the car has never issued any codes, drives fine aside from some annoying whining in the first two gears, but might as well give it a try. Sure enough, apparently there were quite a few misfire codes, etc., but they were dated well before I took ownership of it about 2 years ago. Anyway, I reset the ECU and a few other modules, drove the car for adaptations and voilà, no more whining/groaning/harmonic vibrations from the engine. I don't know if this will last, but I will check the ECU again in a few weeks and if any new codes appear, at least I will be able to diagnose and fix the problem much better than guessing what is making that sound @!!@ !@ ! I've searched high and low for a solution and I don't think a single person has ever suggested resetting the ECU, but it's a valid option.!
|
| lz110110 (851hp) | The whining noise usually occurs when the air conditioning compressor is disengaged. You can reproduce the sound by choosing eco pro where the economic climate mode is activated and disengaging the compressor
|
| everett (586hp) | I did the old wait until it got worse and tried to continue it again. Things got worse and I'm pretty sure I figured it out. It is now constant, but it would decrease considerably if I drove on patches of new pavement. So imagine that the tires are shaped like a suction cup. I just ran the winter set and took a good look at the summers and there is some uneven wear, some tread blocks are worn more than others. Looks like wheel alignment is in my future.
|
| tiger6 (542hp) | I have an intermittent whining noise when driving. There does not appear to be any specific condition that causes this. It just happens randomly. It seems to be between 60 and 110 km and more. I can feel it in the steering wheel and floor as well as a high frequency vibration. The best I can describe the noise is the whine of a hydraulic pump which I can also feel. A few friends said a power steering pump, since mine still has hydraulic power steering. But I thought I'd ask here too. THANKS.
|
| 210679 (262hp) | I'm also trying to track down a moan and will probably post a new subtopic for my problem. Basically, it's intermittent and only happens in the first 2 or 3 gears and only around 2000 rpm. It's more of a whirring or fluttering sound that accompanies the engine noises, but just seems more obvious. This only happens when driving and not idling and disappears after 2nd or 3rd gear. In addition, it happens whether I am in eco pro, or in sport and it happens whether the air conditioning is on or off. I changed my serpentine belt and pulleys, but I haven't changed my motor mounts yet. Is it possible that it is the guibo? The noise seems to come more from the engine side. I have a 2012 535i (N55) with 140K on it. I should also point out that there is no negligible problem with the performance of the car, it runs and drives great and there are no oil leaks. There are no mods on the engine, external or ECU. Let us know if you discover the problem. Updated 10/14/2024 - So I tried listening to the sound again last night and I could barely hear it in the park. Same symptoms as before when driving up to 2nd/3rd, but now I can hear it faintly in park, leading me to believe it is isolated to the engine versus the transmission. This happens exactly at 1500 rpm in park.
|
| nevaeh07 (813hp) | I'm still looking for this solution. The rabbit hole I find myself in now has to do with a similar problem I researched from the F30 guys. Apparently BMW issued a TSB on this, something related to the low pressure air conditioning hose and the use of harmonic weights to eliminate the noise..
|
| reyes1 (315hp) | I had a whining sound coming from the PCV and replaced the valve cover. I corrected it. Maybe just one of the possibilities.
|
| aerosports (219hp) | Yeah, so the harmonic weight of the low pressure A/C hose wasn't the problem. I was about to order a valve cover, engine mounts, spark plugs, ignition coils, etc., but decided to look through my repair receipt file from the previous owner ( I bought it from him 3 years ago). Literally 6 months before he sold it to me, all that work was done! Anyway, I wanted to let you all know that I kind of fixed the problem last night. Frustrated, I pulled out my ISTA diagnostic tool. Mind you, I have no reason to think there is an ECU problem since the car has never issued any codes, drives fine aside from some annoying whining in the first two gears, but might as well give it a try. Sure enough, apparently there were quite a few misfire codes, etc., but they were dated well before I took ownership of it about 2 years ago. Anyway, I reset the ECU and a few other modules, drove the car for adaptations and voilà, no more whining/groaning/harmonic vibrations from the engine. I don't know if this will last, but I will check the ECU again in a few weeks and if any new codes appear, at least I will be able to diagnose and fix the problem much better than guessing what is making that sound @!!@ !@! I've searched high and low for a solution and I don't think a single person has ever suggested resetting the ECU, but it's a valid option.!
|
| 01121983 (702hp) | The whining noise usually occurs when the air conditioning compressor is disengaged. You can reproduce the sound by choosing eco pro where the economic climate mode is activated and disengaging the compressor
|
| madison08 (263hp) | I did the old wait until it got worse and tried to continue it again. Things got worse and I'm pretty sure I figured it out. It is now constant, but it would decrease considerably if I drove on patches of new pavement. So imagine that the tires are shaped like a suction cup. I just ran the winter set and took a good look at the summers and there is some uneven wear, some tread blocks are worn more than others. Looks like wheel alignment is in my future.
|
| Ollibolli (765hp) | So I did my first service on my 2014 520d with the n47 engine about 2,000 kms ago. I plan to do an oil change every 8,000 to 10,000 miles. I used shell oil for his first interview but it was quite expensive. I do about 30,000 km per year, which is about 3-4 services per year that I plan to do. My question is: does the brand of oil really matter? Since there is quite a difference in price. These are the current oil prices. All 5w30 and are BMW LL04 Spec. Cheapest: Bolk (mister auto brand oil), 6 liters is 33 Ђ Middle: Quartz total, 6 liters is 45 Ђ The most expensive: shell helix ultra, 6 liters is 70 Ђ. There are now products like Liqui Moly and Castrol, but they are closer to the Ђ100 mark. I know of older cars without DPF and such, I have been able to put any oil in and they have always worked fine. So, can I use any oil as long as it is BMW LL04 rated? Especially with the shorter oil change intervals? THANKS.
|
| orange23 (216hp) | In my opinion, as long as you use the BMW LL04 spec for the diesel, you are good to go.
|
| 181179 (430hp) | In short, it is. Killascrimp makes a good point. Search for LL04 (if that is indeed your vehicle's specification) and find the cheapest!
|
| mamaypapa (227hp) | Quote: Posted by Cvx5832 In short, it is. Killascrimp makes a good point. Search for LL04 (if that is indeed your vehicle's specification) and find the cheapest one! So if the specs are correct, the brand doesn't matter? It's a bit strange to put the cheapest one in my car. Is it just the result of an effective marketing campaign that makes me feel this way? greetings
|
| indien (330hp) | First, make sure it's the LL-04, after that it's really your preference. Everything is between quality and price. In reality, more expensive brands might offer a better and more refined blend of additives, but the difference is not that huge. I have always used Motul for my cars and motorcycles, in my opinion their X-clean EFE oil is good, both in terms of quality and price..
|
| ford12 (187hp) | Quote: Originally posted by Toosrimpeldoos So if the specs are correct, the brand doesn't matter? It's a bit strange to put the cheapest one in my car. Is it just the result of an effective marketing campaign that makes me feel this way? greetz That's exactly what I'm saying. If the oil carries the certification, the vehicle manufacturer itself says that everything is fine. In practice, use whatever you want 😂,
|
| jesusa (452hp) | Agreed: if the specifications are met, there is no reason to invest more. Except you're on a race track, which probably isn't the case for most of us, right. With my speed limit of 120 km/h in Switzerland, the engine hardly has to do anything. And even in Germany with open speeds of 180 km/h the motor only has 3000 U/m, which is also not much action for this motor..
|
| 1qazxsw23edcvfr4 (823hp) | Thank you all. I will go ahead with the cheapest oil with the correct specification BMW-LL04. Will save more than 140 Ђ per year on oil.
|
| 123123qweqwe (894hp) | So I did my first service on my 2014 520d with the n47 engine about 2,000 kms ago. I plan to do an oil change every 8,000 to 10,000 miles. I used shell oil for his first interview but it was quite expensive. I do about 30,000 km per year, which is about 3-4 services per year that I plan to do. My question is: does the brand of oil really matter? Since there is quite a difference in price. These are the current oil prices. All 5w30 and are BMW LL04 Spec. Cheapest: Bolk (mister auto brand oil), 6 liters is 33 Ђ Middle: Quartz total, 6 liters is 45 Ђ The most expensive: shell helix ultra, 6 liters is 70 Ђ. There are now products like Liqui Moly and Castrol, but they are closer to the Ђ100 mark. I know of older cars without DPF and such, I have been able to put any oil in and they have always worked fine. So, can I use any oil as long as it is BMW LL04 rated? Especially with the shorter oil change intervals? THANKS.
|
| maelys (606hp) | In my opinion, as long as you use the BMW LL04 spec for the diesel, you are good to go.
|
| lauer87 (850hp) | In short, it is. Killascrimp makes a good point. Search for LL04 (if that is indeed your vehicle's specification) and find the cheapest!
|
| Tactical Mentat (635hp) | Quote: Posted by Cvx5832 In short, it is. Killascrimp makes a good point. Search for LL04 (if that is indeed your vehicle's specification) and find the cheapest one! So if the specs are correct, the brand doesn't matter? It's a bit strange to put the cheapest one in my car. Is it just the result of an effective marketing campaign that makes me feel this way? greetings
|
| wulandari (687hp) | First, make sure it's the LL-04, after that it's really your preference. Everything is between quality and price. In reality, more expensive brands might offer a better and more refined blend of additives, but the difference is not that huge. I have always used Motul for my cars and motorcycles, in my opinion their X-clean EFE oil is good, both in terms of quality and price..
|
| 216216 (153hp) | Quote: Originally posted by Toosrimpeldoos So if the specs are correct, the brand doesn't matter? It's a bit strange to put the cheapest one in my car. Is it just the result of an effective marketing campaign that makes me feel this way? greetz That's exactly what I'm saying. If the oil carries the certification, the vehicle manufacturer itself says that everything is fine. In practice, use whatever you want 😂,
|
| 13579246 (62hp) | Agreed: if the specifications are met, there is no reason to invest more. Except you're on a race track, which probably isn't the case for most of us, right. With my speed limit of 120 km/h in Switzerland, the engine hardly has to do anything. And even in Germany with open speeds of 180 km/h the motor only has 3000 U/m, which is also not much action for this motor..
|
| 16051983 (349hp) | Thank you all. I will go ahead with the cheapest oil with the correct specification BMW-LL04. Will save more than 140 Ђ per year on oil.
|
| cuba (931hp) | what is the best brand of timing chain for n63tu
|
| philly123 (860hp) | Quote: Posted by f10nate what is the best brand of timing chain for n63tu I would say original BMW but I have already used a Bilstein (twice) without any problems. I covered 200K km with the first one on an N47. I just replaced another one on an N57 last week. Fingers crossed
|
| mylove14 (15hp) | what is the best brand of timing chain for n63tu
|
| lildevil (87hp) | Quote: Posted by f10nate what is the best brand of timing chain for n63tu I would say original BMW but I have already used a Bilstein (twice) without any problems. I did 200K km with the first one on an N47. I just replaced another one on an N57 last week. Fingers crossed
|
| harold1 (928hp) | I want to install a catless vrsf downpipe on my 528i f10 it's a 2016 and I'm just curious how hard it will be and if there are any issues I should know about it has a motor n20, once the belt problems are resolved.
|
| kk (642hp) | I want to install a catless vrsf downpipe on my 528i f10 it's a 2016 and I'm just curious how hard it will be and if there are any issues I should know about it has a motor n20, once the belt problems are resolved.
|
| ig4abox4 (560hp) | Good morning! Does anyone have experience with the 2016 N47 525D engine? I heard that this engine is not very good, the mileage is currently 160,000 km, is it time to replace the timing chain? How do I know/test when the timing chain needs to be replaced? Are there any other known issues, things to watch out for? My sister bought this car..
|
| 1sunflower (396hp) | The valve cover may leak. On these latest n47s, the timing chain isn't that bad. Mine is from 2011 and had over 270 km when I replaced the timing chain. The vibration damper can also deteriorate, like on other diesel engines..
|
| ehlee81 (457hp) | The problem with the n47 is that one engine can go up to 300,000 km with the original timing chain and have no problems, the other can break at 150,000 km. I suggest you change the timing chain because on these engines you won't hear anything and it will break. This will result in catastrophic engine damage. Where I come from, we change the timing chains every 150,000 km, because generally we don't know how it was maintained before.
|
| iamross04 (322hp) | Quote: Originally published by Interject Hello! Does anyone have experience with the 2016 N47 525D engine? I heard that this engine is not very good, the mileage is currently 160,000 km, is it time to replace the timing chain? How do I know/test when the timing chain needs to be replaced? Are there any other known issues, things to watch out for? My sister bought this car. In the BMW center they can test the timing chain but only the upper timing chain, which is not so relevant because the sprockets may be worn, chain guides, etc...
|
| porfavor (987hp) | And it's not so bad to DIY, if you have access to an elevator..
|
| NGINWERK (500hp) | Most of the time, the timing chain problem comes from the top one. This can be replaced from the top of the engine. I've done this twice, first on an N47 and second on my N57 last week. Price around 120 on autodoc Duration: A whole day...
|
| Daan (376hp) | Good morning! Does anyone have experience with the 2016 N47 525D engine? I heard that this engine is not very good, the mileage is currently 160,000 km, is it time to replace the timing chain? How do I know/test when the timing chain needs to be replaced? Are there any other known issues, things to watch out for? My sister bought this car..
|
| Jabenjamin (750hp) | The valve cover may leak. On these latest n47s, the timing chain isn't that bad. Mine is from 2011 and had over 270 km when I replaced the timing chain. The vibration damper can also deteriorate, like on other diesel engines..
|
| lazarus1 (211hp) | The problem with the n47 is that one engine can go up to 300,000 km with the original timing chain and have no problems, the other can break at 150,000 km. I suggest you change the timing chain because on these engines you won't hear anything and it will break. This will result in catastrophic engine damage. Where I come from, we change the timing chains at 150,000 km, because we generally don't know how it was maintained before.
|
| fallen13 (761hp) | Quote: Originally published by Interject Hello! Does anyone have experience with the 2016 N47 525D engine? I heard that this engine is not very good, the mileage is currently 160,000 km, is it time to replace the timing chain? How do I know/test when the timing chain needs to be replaced? Are there any other known issues, things to watch out for? My sister bought this car. In the BMW center they can test the timing chain but only the upper timing chain, which is not so relevant because the sprockets may be worn, chain guides, etc...
|
| ble (630hp) | And it's not so bad to DIY, if you have access to an elevator..
|
| rana (564hp) | Most of the time, the timing chain problem comes from the top one. This can be replaced from the top of the engine. I've done this twice, first on an N47 and second on my N57 last week. Price around 120 on autodoc Duration: A whole day...
|
| 10091986 (530hp) | Hi all, Need help please so I can properly diagnose my crank problem to get started. A few days ago the car started longer than usual on the way to the supermarket (2 km away). I assumed it was probably a battery issue since it's the middle of winter here in Victoria, Australia. On the way back from the supermarket, same thing...the car took a while to start then the engine seemed to run fine. about 200m on the way back the car stalled. The car had to be towed home. So I did some obvious checks - battery, camshaft, crankshaft, fuel pressure, etc. and everything seems fine. ISTA-D generates error 273C00 (Camshaft sensor, signal No signal). As I mentioned, the camshaft sensor seemed OK when I checked the voltage and Hall effect (watching the signal wire drop from 5V to 0V as the sensor gets closer to the metal) . I even replaced the camshaft sensor with a working one, but no difference. Anyway, I wanted to rule out the worst case scenario which is a timing chain problem in my book. So I removed the camshaft sensor then looked to see if the flywheel was turning and unfortunately it wasn't (see video link below). From my understanding the starter should have engaged the flywheel to turn, so is there anything I can check before concluding it is a timing chain problem? Is it wishful thinking to believe that it could be something else? The car has only done 150,000 km and is a 520d (engine label is N47D20O1). Thanks in advance.
|
| ipswich1 (924hp) | It's the chain mate... :-( This is the second 520d I've seen this month break the chain at around 150km, which is a shamefully low mileage... By the way, when your car was it manufactured? The latest revisions of the kit should last an average of 250,000 km, but the initial parts had problems.
|
| kolbycheesey (475hp) | Hello Breach, the production date is October 1, 2010. Has there been a recall?
|
| 221087 (806hp) | Yeah, that explains it. Not a reminder, no. BMW never really admitted fault to avoid legal liability. But they continued to make quality improvements until 04/2011 to the sprockets, chains and tensioner (and maybe even later they didn't check). So older models suffered from premature chain wear, made worse by those crazy 30,000km oil change intervals. If you have a solid service history with them, they may be willing to cover part of the repair cost, but either way it will be cheaper to have it repaired at an indy or replace the l the entire engine with a second-hand engine. Either way, it's going to cost you at least a few thousand... I have a 02/2011 520d with 110k and I change the oil at about 10k kms, but I realize I'm already taking a risk , so a chain kit replacement is in my immediate future.
|
| SoleOne (503hp) | 167k miles on mine. I just parked the car because I'm going on vacation. Friday I'll start replacing the timing chain... No noise yet, but easier to do now than later.
|
| countrygirl (274hp) | I did some timing chain work with my friend this weekend.
|
| babebabe (585hp) | Quote: Originally posted by zener I did some timing chain work with my friend this weekend. Great job buddy! Have you compared chains, stretching? Additionally, any visible wear on the camshaft sprocket...?
|
| warlord1 (762hp) | I forgot to compare the chains but the sprocket was a little worn. And the lower chain tensioner was much more open than with a new chain. Also the oil pump chain had a lot more slack than the new one..
|
| ksoze (138hp) | Keep in mind that the best way to preserve your timing chain is to simply replace your oil every 15,000 km instead of 30,000 km. Since the DPF is on our BMW, the oil is degraded by the regeneration of the DPF. I tested this with a new timing chain that I replaced, and after 200,000 miles it was still like new.
|
| sweetone (625hp) | Hi all, Need help please so I can properly diagnose my crank problem to get started. A few days ago the car started longer than usual on the way to the supermarket (2 km away). I assumed it was probably a battery issue since it's the middle of winter here in Victoria, Australia. On the way back from the supermarket, same thing...the car took a while to start then the engine seemed to run fine. about 200m on the way back the car stalled. The car had to be towed home. So I did some obvious checks - battery, camshaft, crankshaft, fuel pressure, etc. and everything seems fine. ISTA-D generates error 273C00 (Camshaft sensor, signal No signal). As I mentioned, the camshaft sensor seemed OK when I checked the voltage and Hall effect (watching the signal wire drop from 5V to 0V as the sensor gets closer to the metal) . I even replaced the camshaft sensor with a working one, but no difference. Anyway, I wanted to rule out the worst case scenario which is a timing chain problem in my book. So I removed the camshaft sensor then looked to see if the flywheel was turning and unfortunately it wasn't (see video link below). From my understanding the starter should have engaged the flywheel to turn, so is there anything I can check before concluding it is a timing chain problem? Is it wishful thinking to believe that it could be something else? The car has only done 150,000 km and is a 520d (engine label is N47D20O1). Thanks in advance.
|
| sarada (487hp) | It's the chain mate... :-( This is the second 520d I've seen this month break the chain at around 150km, which is a shamefully low mileage... By the way, when your car was it manufactured? The latest revisions of the kit should last an average of 250,000 km, but the initial parts had problems.
|
| Infinity (102hp) | Hello Breach, the production date is October 1, 2010. Has there been a recall?
|
| 140576 (151hp) | Yeah, that explains it. Not a reminder, no. BMW never really admitted fault to avoid legal liability. But they continued to make quality improvements until 04/2011 to the sprockets, chains and tensioner (and maybe even later they didn't check). So older models suffered from premature chain wear, made worse by those crazy 30,000km oil change intervals. If you have a solid service history with them, they may be willing to cover part of the repair cost, but either way it will be cheaper to have it repaired at an indy or replace the l the entire engine with a second-hand engine. Either way, it's going to cost you at least a few thousand... I have a 02/2011 520d with 110k and I change the oil at about 10k kms, but I realize I'm already taking a risk , so a chain kit replacement is in my immediate future.
|
| stainless (892hp) | 167k miles on mine. I just parked the car because I'm going on vacation. Friday I'll start replacing the timing chain... No noise yet, but easier to do now than later.
|
| akademia (752hp) | I did some timing chain work with my friend this weekend.
|
| themoon (461hp) | Quote: Originally posted by zener I did some timing chain work with my friend this weekend. Great job buddy! Have you compared chains, stretching? Additionally, any visible wear on the camshaft sprocket...?
|
| 260684 (877hp) | I forgot to compare the chains but the sprocket was a little worn. And the lower chain tensioner was much more open than with a new chain. Also the oil pump chain had a lot more slack than the new one..
|
| JSCO (167hp) | Keep in mind that the best way to preserve your timing chain is to simply replace your oil every 15,000 km instead of 30,000 km. Since the DPF is on our BMW, the oil is degraded by the regeneration of the DPF. I tested this with a new timing chain that I replaced, and after 200,000 miles it was still like new.
|
| culiacan1 (507hp) | Hello, For a while now my 2010 F11 520d has occasionally (without rhyme or reason) been making a serious thump/shake when stopping. Assuming a gear change from 2nd to 1st. I have done about 100,000 miles, recently changed the gearbox oil and filter to try to resolve the problem, but no cigar. The gearbox is much smoother since we changed the oil and filter and had assumed that had solved the problem until today when the idle for the lights changed with such a thud that my other half thought we had been hit. Otherwise, the gearbox and the car are faultless. I have searched and searched and many people are talking about changing the ZF oil and filter. This didn't bring any change. Any ideas?? THANKS
|
| Marius84 (419hp) | Have you checked the condition of your rear differential bushing? I thought you would feel more of a "thud" when switching to R, but just a thought. I just had mine replaced (with the flex disk (Giubo) as PM) on my 15' 535i with 8HP at 86,000 miles because it was torn.
|
| paralegal (856hp) | I don't think that's the difference. I would expect it to be more reproducible if that were the case. Somehow I think it's related to the gearbox/torque converter, but again I would have thought it would be more repeatable for the torque converter. When it happens, like today's case, it was violent, which is why my other half thought we were hit from behind. It's strange and frustrating and seems to only appear on longer journeys, as if heat might be a contributing factor. However, ambient temperatures are currently reasonably low in the UK. (13c/55f)
|
| summer03 (17hp) | Hello, For a while now, my 2010 F11 520d has occasionally (without rhyme or reason) been emitting a serious KNOCK/shake when stopping. Assuming a gear change from 2nd to 1st. I have done about 100,000 miles, recently changed the gearbox oil and filter to try to resolve the problem, but no cigar. The gearbox is much smoother since we changed the oil and filter and had assumed that had solved the problem until today when the idle for the lights changed with such a thud that my other half thought we had been hit. Otherwise, the gearbox and the car are faultless. I have searched and searched and many people are talking about changing the ZF oil and filter. It didn't bring any change. Any ideas?? THANKS
|
| skiingmav (575hp) | Have you checked the condition of your rear differential bushing? I thought you would feel more of a "thud" when switching to R, but just a thought. I just had mine replaced (with the flex disk (Giubo) as PM) on my 15' 535i with 8HP at 86,000 miles because it was torn.
|
| jasmine17 (920hp) | I don't think that's the difference. I would expect it to be more reproducible if that were the case. Somehow I think it's related to the gearbox/torque converter, but again I would have thought it would be more repeatable for the torque converter. When it happens, like in today's case, it was violent, which is why my other half thought we were hit from behind. It's strange and frustrating and seems to only appear on longer journeys, as if heat might be a contributing factor. However, ambient temperatures are currently reasonably low in the UK. (13c/55f)
|
| 08031989 (293hp) | My latch stopped working, I replaced it with one that looked identical, but turns out it's not exactly the same. It does everything correctly except when closing it will jump a hair and show as unlocked inside even though it is locked. These 2 little buttons. That the trunk lid is attached to the bumper. They seem adjustable. Do you think this would solve this problem? I tried to play with them a little but very tight and I don't want to break anything if it's not even something that will fix it
|
| 21081990 (754hp) | This is fixed. I lifted the small metal latch that the trunk latches onto and lowered the rubber bumper stops on the trunk lid..
|
| kaemackinnon (640hp) | My latch stopped working, I replaced it with one that looked identical, but turns out it's not exactly the same. It does everything correctly except when closing it will jump a hair and show as unlocked inside even though it is locked. These 2 little buttons. That the trunk lid is attached to the bumper. They seem adjustable. Do you think this would solve this problem? I tried to play with them a little but very tight and I don't want to break anything if it's not even something that will fix it
|
| 040889 (828hp) | This is fixed. I lifted the small metal latch that the trunk latches onto and lowered the rubber bumper stops on the trunk lid..
|
| Q1W2E3R4 (427hp) | What fuel consumption should I expect with a 2011 N53 523i touring (221,000 km) Steady cruising at 120 km/h (75 mph) with a warm engine gives me 1:12.9 L/km (36 .5 mpg UK) A constant speed of 80 km/h (50 mph) gives me 1:16.5 L/km (39 mpg UK). Is this correct or should I look for improvement. I'm happy to do this if it makes you thirsty.
|
| 150893 (50hp) | I had an E92 330i (n52)i in the past. My average was slightly less than 10 km/L. In winter, it was slightly lower, around 9.2 km/L. For me, a speed much higher than 10 km/L was not achievable in mixed.
|
| mine1234 (165hp) | The N52 doesn't have DI, so fuel economy is expected to be worse than the N53. I hear about the N53 being able to do 1h15 on the motorway, I just wonder how fast and if this concerns tourism.
|
| kayten (936hp) | What fuel consumption should I expect with a 2011 N53 523i touring (221,000 km) Steady cruising at 120 km/h (75 mph) with a warm engine gives me 1:12.9 L/km (36 .5 mpg UK) A constant speed of 80 km/h (50 mph) gives me 1:16.5 L/km (39 mpg UK). Is this correct or should I look for improvement. Happy to do that if it makes you thirsty.
|
| whatislove (592hp) | I had an E92 330i (n52)i in the past. My average was just under 10 km/L. In winter, it was slightly lower, around 9.2 km/L. For me, a speed much higher than 10 km/L was not achievable in mixed.
|
| machoman1 (525hp) | The N52 doesn't have DI, so fuel economy is expected to be worse than the N53. I hear about the N53 being able to do 1h15 on the motorway, I just wonder how fast and if this concerns tourism.
|
| bmwmanirl (460hp) | I removed the radiator and a bunch of hoses from my 2014 F10. While moving something later, this bolt fell to the ground. As far as I know, all my bolts are accounted for. Any idea where this leads? It fell on the driver's side around the radiator.
|
| flipside1 (555hp) | I also replaced the valve cover. When I did this one of the captive bolts fell out. That was it. I used Google reverse image search to figure this out!
.
|
All times are GMT -5. The time now is 01:58 AM.
