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| 240381 (682hp) | Quote: Posted by bm323 Hello, I didn't know they had an update. Can you confirm if this is version 38.2? Wandering has been reduced, meaning is there still some? iDrive version - unable to confirm. That's what the CSA said and even he didn't seem to be too sure. In practice, wandering has disappeared – or at least I no longer notice it. Quote: Originally posted by Kiasu King Hi Bimmernic, How did you update your idrive at PML? Is this part of the first service or have you made special arrangements for this to be done? When I put the car into service, I mentioned that I was having some issues with (a) selecting the iPod function from the Favorites button and (b) some lag between pressing the iDrive controller to end a call and the actual end of the call. When I picked up the car, the CSA mentioned that the issues should now be resolved (not quite) since the iDrive software had been updated..
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| bonny (222hp) | Quote: Originally posted by bimmernic May 2010 No idea, I'm afraid. With the new iDrive version, when PDC is activated, there are now two graphical representations (images of the car), the smaller one on the right side of the screen showing the entire car and the larger one in the center of the screen. screen showing the front. half (while driving) or half rear (when reversing). Both are oriented North-South (vertical) instead of East-West (horizontal) in the previous version of iDrive. (e) there is also less slope/inaccuracy/free play in the straight ahead position. Very interesting, I'll check my PDC to see what version I have. I think mine is the updated one you describe, but mine is a June car. Did the guy say there were management changes? Or was it your move to non-RFTs at the same time that was the cause of the improvement?
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| geetanjali (669hp) | Quote: Originally posted by pharding Great news for the F30 and potentially great news for the US. Hopefully BMW will offer hydraulic steering as soon as possible on the F10, which will probably be years away. XDrive 5ers have hydraulic steering. My 2011 535ix has no steering problems.
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| luisfigo (956hp) | Quote: Originally posted by HighlandPete If your "similar problem" is between 70-80 mph, that makes at least 4 UK users on the forum saying the same thing in the last few days. Be specific, more defined than the “less than specific” direction we have heard about and experienced. Definitely interested in changing winter tires... will it be an RFT, or non-RFT game? HighlandPete Pete, finally decided to go with non-RFT winter tires. Vredestein Wintrac Xtreme 245/45R18 100V. So far I've only done a brief 15 minute test - mix of highways and city roads. First impressions are reduced noise and significantly less disruption to the cabin due to potholes and other road imperfections. It was very windy on the highway so it was hard to judge the direction, but I have a feeling the wandering may have disappeared. I'll report back once I've covered a few miles. I haven't had a problem with RFTs before, but I think come spring and they come back I might be disappointed..
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| Jubilados (516hp) | Driving in the high winds last night was scary in my 520d. It's like driving on an ice rink. I have to go back to the dealership!
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| jeannot (856hp) | I just updated my iDrive software (version 38.2 (?)). At first I thought I was imagining things, but after two weeks of driving and checking that the tire pressure remained the same throughout, my impressions are: (a) the steering is heavier than before , (b) the steering feels the load under braking and lightens when accelerating - never noticed/felt this before, (c) the tendency to skid, requiring constant and minor steering corrections when going straight > 80 km/h has been reduced considerably, this makes it less nervous/tiring to drive on highways, and (d) the self-centering function is more pronounced than before. I'm on 18 non-RFT and M-Sport suspension. YMMV.
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| 26121982 (382hp) | bimmernic. when was your F10 made?
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| lilmoney1 (639hp) | Improved steering in the current iteration of the F10 My car is in the workshop for the second time. My dealer lends me an F10 car when my car is in the workshop. This time I got a 535i with 250 miles. The basic steering has definitely been improved. I'm assuming this is just a software change, but that's just guesswork on my part. Compared to previous loaner cars with many more miles and other 535s I tested in the summer, the steering of the new loaner 535 doesn't feel sloppy when driving in a straight line. The steering is very similar to my 550i with DHP and IAS. Hopefully BMW has implemented a fix to address the sloppy straight-line driving feel that so many people criticize about the F's basic steering system10..
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| renee08 (946hp) | A sad and depressed British 520d owner here. When the car arrived it seemed perfect, but after 5km I'm convinced something is wrong with the steering - after long trips I notice my left hand is often stiff from continually correcting the steering - it seems sloppy going straight, and the slightest bump or slope in the road, and the car goes to the left, sometimes quite violently. It _always_ goes left, never right, and the hands-free steering wheel's natural resting position seems slightly off-center, to the left. Took to Milton Keynes BMW this week, couldn't find anything, but I was quite rude in saying a 40k shouldn't run like that - they agreed to take it back this week to put it on a machine laser alignment (kbc?), but I really think they are barking up the wrong tree......any advice?
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| taratata (722hp) | Quote: Originally posted by bimmernic I just updated my iDrive software (version 38.2 (?)). At first I thought I was imagining things, but after two weeks of driving and checking that the tire pressure remained the same throughout, my impressions are: (a) the steering is heavier than before , (b) the steering feels the load under braking and lightens when accelerating - never noticed/felt this before, (c) the tendency to skid, requiring constant and minor steering corrections when going straight > 80 km/ha summer significantly reduced, this makes it less nervous/tiring to drive on highways, and (d) the self-centering function is more pronounced than before. I'm on 18 non-RFT and M-Sport suspension. YMMV. How can I check my idrive version?
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| cynthia (916hp) | Update on the transition from winter RFTs to non-RFTs. The steering is much improved. The best way to describe it is before I have to grip the steering wheel, at low speeds to make sure it doesn't turn sharply under unfavorable camber, at highway speeds to keep it from shaking and to avoid have to make minor corrections. Now I “hold” the steering wheel. It does not deviate and does not need correction. In fact, even on camber highways, I can let go of the steering wheel and the car drives in the direction it was last pointed. The woman also commented on how much smoother and quieter the ride was. Hmmm. It's not perfect yet, but it's much better. I have not tested the limit management.
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| 19841013 (311hp) | I know I've made this comment many times, but for me the elephant in the room is...runflat tires. The reason I didn't decide to buy an F11 touring car is because I've had all these problems before, in my current car. I really felt like a guinea pig in BMW's research and development. I see you all experiencing this again, I'm waiting to buy an F11, I want to know all the cons this time. Will make better judgment for specs. Some of what is described, ice driving feel, steering correction, even camber sensitivities and to some extent traction, came to my car with full hydraulic steering. The car was difficult to drive, I sometimes had white fingers, I was even tempted to leave the BMW brand and go elsewhere. Simple solution, remove the RFTs and get a decent drive. Where I may have gained an advantage, to prove the problem I still have my set of RFT wheels and have ridden them several times over 40,000 miles, the same problems return as soon as I get back to the conditions that caused the original problems. . So not in the spirit, nor the wear, nor the mileage. (I stuck with the same wheel size for the experiment). Nothing to do with the management itself, which I believed at one point to be defective. I had the garage check everything, they did an alignment (KDS), and I also checked everything myself twice for loose components. Now we know BMW is tweaking the EPS, I read about it and there is no reason why they can't tighten things up, for center feel, straight line stability and even stability to the side wind. Controlling these parameters is indeed part of EPS design for good steering, but... they still need to mask the corruption caused by runflat tires. Personally, I think that until the elephant is removed from the room, we may, due to our use and personal circumstances, find that we have limitations. Not for everyone, as some drivers won't push the limits. Additionally, certain car specs and wheel sizes (even tire brand) will be better than other configurations. I feel for you guys, but this time I'm waiting, based on what's actually happening, not the assumptions I made last time. BTW, my car now drives like a mature E39 for more feel and smoothness. Nowadays I don't even have to think about steering, just drive and enjoy. But if I went out to my workshop and put together the set of RFT shod wheels, I would be back to square one. HighlandPete
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| sucks1 (668hp) | Quote: Originally posted by eaglesrest Update on the transition from winter RFTs to non-RFTs. The steering is much improved. The best way to describe it is before I have to grip the steering wheel, at low speeds to make sure it doesn't turn sharply under unfavorable camber, at highway speeds to keep it from shaking and to avoid have to make minor corrections. Now I “hold” the steering wheel. It does not deviate and does not need correction. In fact, even on camber highways, I can let go of the steering wheel and the car drives in the last direction it was pointed. The woman also commented on how much smoother and quieter the ride was. Hmmm. It's not perfect yet, but it's much better. I have not tested the limit management. What I expected to read, for me, reinforces my experience in the 330d. Personally, I don't think BMW has really mastered run-flat tires, even after years of experience. My test drives, as I commented on the forums, left me with the feeling that running flat still compromised handling. Grip or Hold the Steering Wheel: For me, runflats require a lot more concentration once you leave really good surfaces, particularly if there is significant road crown, ever-changing camber and surface defects. You even feel like you're fighting against management...rather than being in control. Not perfect: I'm sure a decent performance tire of the optimal wheel size (I don't know what size that is yet) will be close to perfect. HighlandPete
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| paris2 (19hp) | Quote: Originally posted by juztinl bimmernic. When was your F10 made? May 2010 Quote: Originally posted by morkjt How do I check my idrive version? No idea, I'm afraid. With the new iDrive version, when PDC is activated, there are now two graphical representations (images of the car), the smaller one on the right side of the screen showing the entire car and the larger one in the center of the screen. screen showing the front. half (while driving) or half rear (when reversing). Both are oriented North-South (vertical) instead of East-West (horizontal) in the previous version of iDrive. Quote: Originally posted by bimmernic I just updated my iDrive software (version 38.2 (?)). At first I thought I was imagining things, but after two weeks of driving and checking that the tire pressure remained the same throughout, my impressions are: (a) the steering is heavier than before , (b) the steering feels the load under braking and lightens when accelerating - never noticed/felt this before, (c) the tendency to skid, requiring constant and minor steering corrections when going straight > 80 km/ha summer significantly reduced, this makes it less nervous/tiring to continue driving on highways, and (d) the self-centering function is more pronounced than before. I'm on 18 non-RFT and M-Sport suspension. YMMV. (e) there is also less slop/blur/free play when straight ahead
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| jagdish (89hp) | Quote: Originally posted by pharding Improved steering in the current iteration of the F10... I assume this is just a software change, but that's just conjecture on my part . Compared to previous loaner cars with many more miles and other 535s I tested in the summer, the steering of the new loaner 535 doesn't feel sloppy when driving in a straight line. The steering is very similar to my 550i with DHP and IAS. Hopefully BMW has implemented a solution to the sloppy straight-line driving problem that so many people criticize the F10's basic steering system for. pharding, this is what I think has been improved with the new iDrive iteration. The steering felt rubbery a few degrees from straight ahead. He now responds more positively.
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| sawdust (282hp) | @ eaglesrest @HighlandPete I upgraded to non-RFTs the day I took delivery, so I think the steering improvement over the revised iDrive version would also have a similar impact on RFT shod cars. (?)
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| lovemylife (619hp) | Quote: Originally posted by bimmernic I just updated my iDrive software (version 38.2 (?)). At first I thought I was imagining things, but after two weeks of driving and checking that the tire pressure remained the same throughout, my impressions are: (a) the steering is heavier than before , (b) the steering feels the load under braking and lightens when accelerating - never noticed/felt this before, (c) the tendency to skid, requiring constant and minor steering corrections when going straight > 80 km/ha summer significantly reduced, this makes it less nervous/tiring to continue driving on highways, and (d) the self-centering function is more pronounced than before. I'm on 18 non-RFT and M-Sport suspension. YMMV. Hello, I didn't know there was an update. Can you confirm if this is version 38.2? Wandering has been reduced, meaning there is still some?
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| fluidkaos (867hp) | I have had run flats on the 635 D Sport and my X6 35D Sport, NO such issues at any speed, these Run Flats to blame are rubbish to me. Yes, in icy conditions they are poor and harsh, but they are not designed to run on ice!!!. I tested the M-Sport 3.0 diesel f10 and beat it in high winds, and it didn't lead to any steering issues such as following white lines, road cambers, traction n anywhere, blah blah blah, NOTHING and I mean 125 MPH. I think your issues would be tire pressure rather than running flat, they don't corner like the PS2 admits but they aren't designed for that either. If you want the handling of a sports car, sports tires are the way to go, in my opinion. The F10 5 series is not a sports car period, it's a sedan/estate.
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| pussylips (801hp) | Hi Bimmernic, How did you update your idrive at PML? Is this part of the first service or have you made special arrangements for this to be done ??
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| ilovemyson (210hp) | Tire pressures? Are you going to have a giraffe? Sorry but you are completely wrong. I didn't have a problem with the RFTs until I replaced them with RFTs for the winter. There is a clear improvement. I assume you have no direct experience of the contrast that you can relate to, otherwise you wouldn't have published what you did..
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| catalina, (19hp) | Quote: Originally posted by eaglesrest Tire pressure? Are you going to have a giraffe? Sorry but you are completely wrong. I didn't have a problem with the RFTs until I replaced them with RFTs for the winter. There is a clear improvement. I assume you have no direct experience of the contrast that you can relate to, otherwise you wouldn't have published what you did. You are right, I don't have experience switching from one to the other, but I have owned and driven (in the UK) cars with and without runflat, yes they can be harder and more unforgiving depending on tire pressure, IMO. . I tested the M-Sport f10 at speed and found the steering in Normal mode light but not errant, set up in Sport mode with steering and suspension ONLY it rode very well. I noticed on my M3 E90 that my tire pressure was different than recommended. The car's handling has been transformed. Maybe trying a pressure change could solve your problems. However, if I had the symptoms that many have described here, I would NOT have done it. ordered the 550i M Sport.
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| skittles7 (528hp) | Quote: Originally posted by eaglesrest Tire pressure? Are you going to have a giraffe? Sorry but you are completely wrong. I didn't have a problem with the RFTs until I replaced them with RFTs for the winter. There is a clear improvement. I assume you have no direct experience of the contrast that you can relate to, otherwise you wouldn't have published what you did. You're right, I don't have experience switching from one to the other on the same car, but I have owned and driven (in the UK) cars with and without run flats, yes , they can be harsher and more unforgiving depending on tire pressure, IMO. I tested the M-Sport f10 at speed and found the steering in Normal mode light but not errant, set up in Sport mode with steering and suspension ONLY it rode very well. I noticed on my M3 E90 that my tire pressure was different than recommended. The car's handling has been transformed. Maybe trying a pressure change could solve your problems. However, if I had the symptoms that many have described here, I would NOT have done it. ordered the 550i M Sport.
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| cowboys5 (731hp) | Quote: Posted by bm323 Hello, I didn't know they had an update. Can you confirm if this is version 38.2? Wandering has been reduced, meaning is there still some? iDrive version - unable to confirm. That's what the CSA said and even he didn't seem to be too sure. In practice, wandering has disappeared – or at least I no longer notice it. Quote: Originally posted by Kiasu King Hi Bimmernic, How did you update your idrive at PML? Is this part of the first service or have you made special arrangements for this to be done? When I put the car into service, I mentioned that I was having some issues with (a) selecting the iPod function from the Favorites button and (b) some lag between pressing the iDrive controller to end a call and the actual end of the call. When I picked up the car, the CSA mentioned that the issues should now be resolved (not quite) since the iDrive software had been updated..
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| rewind (512hp) | Quote: Originally posted by bimmernic May 2010 No idea, I'm afraid. With the new iDrive version, when PDC is activated, there are now two graphical representations (images of the car), the smaller one on the right side of the screen showing the entire car and the larger one in the center of the screen. screen showing the front. half (while driving) or half rear (when reversing). Both are oriented North-South (vertical) instead of East-West (horizontal) in the previous version of iDrive. (e) there is also less slope/inaccuracy/free play in the upright position. Very interesting, I'll check my PDC to see what version I have. I think mine is the updated one you describe, but mine is a June car. Did the guy say there were management changes? Or was it your move to non-RFTs at the same time that was the cause of the improvement?
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| heslo1 (347hp) | Anyone know what phones will work with the 6NR and smartphone integration suite? I got this on my build week 13, it seemed like an option I didn't want to use without moving forward. I don't have an iPhone, I have a G1 and an Ericsson Saito (considered a smartphone I believe). Will there be support for either and will they work the same as iPhone, internet access, etc. ? Also, is it possible to connect my 120 GB Ipod (always connected) and a smartphone at the same time? Aside from a few general statements here and there, I really don't really understand what 6NR means and how to take advantage of it. THANKS
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| integral (257hp) | Quote: Posted by delvek Anyone know what phones will work with the 6NR and smartphone integration suite? I got this on my build week 13, it seemed like an option I didn't want to use without moving forward. I don't have an iPhone, I have a G1 and an Ericsson Saito (considered a smartphone I believe). Will there be support for either and will they work the same as iPhone, internet access, etc. ? Also, is it possible to connect my 120 GB Ipod (always connected) and a smartphone at the same time? Aside from a few general statements here and there, I really don't really understand what 6NR means and how to take advantage of it. Thanks First of all, you will have Combox as you already know. It will allow you to connect any available phone and give you Office functions on any phone with OS6 software. You can check other threads as well as information provided by BMW to check which specific phones are compatible. 6NR will be a software update for iPhone users using the in-car cradle feature. (To take full advantage of it, you will need an iPhone) It will allow streaming on Twitter, Facebook and Web Radio. I think you can indeed plug both the iPod (via the white cable directly to the USB armrest) and the i-Phone into the armrest holder at the same time. According to another thread, BMW is experiencing overheating issues with the media for the latest iPhone models and is in the process of redesigning it to include a cooling fan for the unit. (These are the mounts you need to purchase separately from BMW for your car.) I guess, like computers, the phone's processor gets hot enough to run all of its apps. As for other phones on the market, software downloads for updates will be done by BMW. They weren't ready when the Combox came out in September. It remains to be seen how many features will be applied to Blackberry and other smartphone manufacturers..
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| anthony77 (613hp) | thank you for your explanation. I now know more than I do. I hope this isn't 250 misspent as I never tweeted or facebooked, I was really hoping to get full internet access through my phone on the screen. The music comes through Ipod, I have 120 GB full of it. Maybe the iPod interface will be smoother. Does it now say to use the Apple USB cord and not the BMW cord I bought ??
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| tillie (789hp) | http://www.e90post.com/forums/showthread.php?t=492861
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| GlobalAdmin (148hp) | Quote: Originally posted by Delvek, thanks for your explanation. I now know more than I do. I hope that's not 250 misspent as I never tweeted or facebooked, I was really hoping to get full internet access through my phone on the screen. The music comes through Ipod, I have 120 GB full of it. Maybe the iPod interface will be smoother. Is the current saying to use the Apple USB cord and not the BMW cord I purchased? With the Combox, it became possible to use the Aple cord directly on the USB port on the armrest. (also get the added album art functionality which is pretty cool) The BMW supplied Y adapter is no longer necessary. Regarding Internet access. This will happen at some point, but I'm not sure if this will be available with your March car, or if additional software upgrades will be required. It also probably depends on the phone and whether or not it has the appropriate software. Like I said, it's happening, but it might still take some time. Spending $250 is a drop in the ocean compared to the rest of the car. If you want the latest technology, this makes implementation even easier. That's why I ordered (and paid a slightly higher price for) a second car for the September Combox upgrade. I don't have to worry about whether or not changes will be available in the future. From there, all software can be easily downloaded to post-September cars. In fact, after the dealer initially installs the software, BMW will obviously make upgrades to their website, so we can download it to a USB stick and install it ourselves..
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| masloboinikova1987 (288hp) | Quote: Originally posted by ghueser This is why I ordered (and paid a slightly higher price for) a second car for the September Combox upgrade. I don't have to worry about whether or not changes will be available in the future. From there, all software can be easily downloaded to post-September cars. In fact, after the dealer initially installs the software, BMW will obviously make upgrades to their website, so we can download it to a USB stick and install it ourselves. Although the information is still sketchy, this ability to update the combox via USB seems to specifically only concern updated Bluetooth profiles. According to the BMW website and available Combox technical documents, this is to allow the driver to update new BT phone profiles as they arrive on the market by downloading the new profiles from the site BMW. The possibility of upgrading the combox software itself was not mentioned. You must be available 4/2011.
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| 091988 (751hp) | Quote: Originally posted by ghueser This is why I ordered (and paid a slightly higher price for) a second car for the September Combox upgrade. I don't have to worry about whether or not changes will be available in the future. From there, all software can be easily downloaded to post-September cars. In fact, after the dealer initially installs the software, BMW will obviously make upgrades to their website, so we can download it to a USB stick and install it ourselves. I'm sorry to disappoint you but the 6NR option cannot be retrofitted on pre-March models. This has been confirmed. So most of us are left behind...again.
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| passwor (809hp) | Quote: Originally posted by tallshorty I'm sorry to disappoint you, but the 6NR option cannot be retrofitted on pre-March models. This has been confirmed. So most of us are left behind… again. That may be true, but all the documents I've seen so far still make it a gray area. At least, not as specific as BMW was when they stated that Pre Combox vehicles could not be retrofitted to Combox. This could be a certain amount of parts for 6NR, but I think this is specifically related to iPhone hardware and more or less an upgrade to newer software programming. I guess for me this remains somewhat of a mute point since I don't have an iPhone, even though many of you do. Keep the faith. Combox was a huge deal for BMW to develop. According to one of their films on U-Tube, development took over three years. This is the base hardware we all need for the majority of future upgrades and will be the hardware they will likely stick with for the next five years or more. That's why it was so bad that BMW pissed off so many people by not preparing it for the F10 platform from the start. For now, 6NR is not a factor since I don't follow Facebook or Tweet. Web Radio would be cool, but then again, since I got a Blackberry, that may never be considered again. I'm more interested in getting one of the many other software upgrades that will eventually come out, such as Internet access through the BB, more upgrades for the iPod, etc...
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| angel (201hp) | I'm afraid the latest documents are perfectly clear. See the PDF file attached to message n°63 http://www.bimmerfest.com/forums/sho...=514177&page=3 The 6NR cannot be retrofitted to pre-March vehicles.
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| shadow27 (638hp) | I'm really annoyed with the 6NR and how BMW handled it. BMWNA told me I could have it added at the dealership, now it all sucks according to their latest bulletin. I don't know how much I would have actually used it but I'm still annoyed that I missed it by 2 weeks.
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| ozzy666 (380hp) | Quote: Originally posted by tallshorty I'm afraid the latest documents are perfectly clear. See the PDF file attached to message n°63 http://www.bimmerfest.com/forums/sho...=514177&page=3 The 6NR cannot be retrofitted to pre-March vehicles. Thank you tallshorty.........that's clear.
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| tulsajesusfrk (572hp) | Anyone know what phones will work with the 6NR and smartphone integration suite? I got this on my build week 13, it seemed like an option I didn't want to use without moving forward. I don't have an iPhone, I have a G1 and an Ericsson Saito (considered a smartphone I believe). Will there be support for either and will they work the same as iPhone, internet access, etc. ? Also, is it possible to connect my 120 GB Ipod (always connected) and a smartphone at the same time? Aside from a few general statements here and there, I really don't really understand what 6NR means and how to take advantage of it. THANKS
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| Ace333 (560hp) | Quote: Posted by delvek Anyone know what phones will work with the 6NR and smartphone integration suite? I got this on my build week 13, it seemed like an option I didn't want to use without moving forward. I don't have an iPhone, I have a G1 and an Ericsson Saito (considered a smartphone I believe). Will there be support for either and will they work the same as iPhone, internet access, etc. ? Also, is it possible to connect my 120 GB Ipod (always connected) and a smartphone at the same time? Aside from a few general statements here and there, I really don't really understand what 6NR means and how to take advantage of it. Thanks First of all, you will have Combox as you already know. It will allow you to connect any available phone and give you Office functions on any phone with OS6 software. You can check other threads as well as information provided by BMW to check which specific phones are compatible. 6NR will be a software update for iPhone users using the in-car cradle feature. (To take full advantage of it, you will need an iPhone) It will allow streaming on Twitter, Facebook and Web Radio. I think you can indeed plug both the iPod (via the white cable directly to the USB armrest) and the i-Phone into the armrest holder at the same time. According to another thread, BMW is experiencing overheating issues with the media for the latest iPhone models and is in the process of redesigning it to include a cooling fan for the unit. (These are the mounts you have to buy separately from BMW for your car.) I guess, like computers, the phone's processor gets hot enough to run all of its apps. As for other phones on the market, software downloads for updates will be done by BMW. They weren't ready when the Combox came out in September. It remains to be seen how many features will be applied to Blackberry and other smartphone manufacturers..
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| 221179 (264hp) | thank you for your explanation. I now know more than I do. I hope this isn't 250 misspent as I never tweeted or facebooked, I was really hoping to get full internet access through my phone on the screen. The music comes through Ipod, I have 120 GB full of it. Maybe the iPod interface will be smoother. Does it now say to use the Apple USB cord and not the BMW cord I bought ??
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| oscar69 (104hp) | http://www.e90post.com/forums/showthread.php?t=492861
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| eatme2 (410hp) | Quote: Originally posted by Delvek, thanks for your explanation. I now know more than I do. I hope this isn't 250 misspent as I never tweeted or facebooked, I was really hoping to get full internet access through my phone on the screen. The music comes through Ipod, I have 120 GB full of it. Maybe the iPod interface will be smoother. Is the current saying to use the Apple USB cord and not the BMW cord I purchased? With the Combox, it became possible to use the Aple cord directly on the USB port on the armrest. (also get the added album art functionality which is pretty cool) The BMW supplied Y adapter is no longer necessary. Regarding Internet access. This will happen at some point, but I'm not sure if this will be available with your March car, or if additional software upgrades will be required. It also probably depends on the phone and whether or not it has the appropriate software. Like I said, it's happening, but it might still take some time. Spending $250 is a drop in the ocean compared to the rest of the car. If you want the latest technology, this makes implementation even easier. That's why I ordered (and paid a slightly higher price for) a second car for the September Combox upgrade. I don't have to worry about whether or not changes will be available in the future. From there, all software can be easily downloaded to post-September cars. In fact, after the dealer initially installs the software, BMW will obviously make upgrades to their website, so we can download it to a USB stick and install it ourselves..
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| davilaj (637hp) | Quote: Originally posted by ghueser This is why I ordered (and paid a slightly higher price for) a second car for the September Combox upgrade. I don't have to worry about whether or not changes will be available in the future. From there, all software can be easily downloaded to post-September cars. In fact, after the dealer initially installs the software, BMW will obviously make upgrades to their website, so we can download it to a USB stick and install it ourselves. Although the information is still sketchy, this ability to update the combox via USB seems to specifically only concern updated Bluetooth profiles. According to the BMW website and available Combox technical documents, this is to allow the driver to update new BT phone profiles as they arrive on the market by downloading the new profiles from the site BMW. The possibility of upgrading the combox software itself was not mentioned. You must be available 4/2011.
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| cchase (997hp) | Quote: Originally posted by ghueser This is why I ordered (and paid a slightly higher price for) a second car for the September Combox upgrade. I don't have to worry about whether or not changes will be available in the future. From there, all software can be easily downloaded to post-September cars. In fact, after the dealer initially installs the software, BMW will obviously make upgrades to their website, so we can download it to a USB stick and install it ourselves. I'm sorry to disappoint you but the 6NR option cannot be installed on pre-March models. This has been confirmed. So most of us are left behind...again.
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| letmein12 (27hp) | Quote: Originally posted by tallshorty I'm sorry to disappoint you, but the 6NR option cannot be retrofitted on pre-March models. This has been confirmed. So most of us are left behind… again. That may be true, but all the documents I've seen so far still make it a gray area. At least, not as specific as BMW was when they stated that Pre Combox vehicles could not be retrofitted to Combox. This could be a certain amount of parts for 6NR, but I think this is specifically related to iPhone hardware and more or less an upgrade to newer software programming. I guess for me this remains somewhat of a mute point since I don't have an iPhone, even though many of you do. Keep the faith. Combox was a huge deal for BMW to develop. According to one of their films on U-Tube, development took over three years. This is the base hardware we all need for the majority of future upgrades and will be the hardware they will likely stick with for the next five years or more. That's why it was so bad that BMW pissed off so many people by not preparing it for the F10 platform from the start. For now, 6NR is not a factor since I don't follow Facebook or Tweet. Web Radio would be cool, but then again, since I got a Blackberry, that may never be considered again. I'm more interested in getting one of the many other software upgrades that will eventually come out, such as Internet access through the BB, more upgrades for the iPod, etc...
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| semenova (144hp) | I'm afraid the latest documents are perfectly clear. See the PDF file attached to message n°63 http://www.bimmerfest.com/forums/sho...=514177&page=3 The 6NR cannot be retrofitted to pre-March vehicles.
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| roxane (662hp) | I'm really annoyed with the 6NR and how BMW handled it. BMWNA told me I could have it added at the dealership, now it all sucks according to their latest bulletin. I don't know how much I would have actually used it but I'm still annoyed that I missed it by 2 weeks.
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| 8x2h4Eddan (413hp) | Quote: Originally posted by tallshorty I'm afraid the latest documents are perfectly clear. See the PDF file attached to message n°63 http://www.bimmerfest.com/forums/sho...=514177&page=3 The 6NR cannot be retrofitted to pre-March vehicles. Thank you tallshorty.........that's clear.
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| 21061991 (198hp) | Disclaimer, I haven't done this yet so this might be something I just need to read..... .....mostly noticed while driving with active guidance and the voice instructions activated when Mrs. Sat Nav speaks as with previous versions of idrive if you increase the volume Mrs. Sat Nav shouts louder to you so far so good. The subtle difference seems to be that before she speaks, the system does not appear to attenuate the audio source, but rather that she speaks over the audio (like a real woman!!!!) and if the audio is louder, you have to turn up Ms Sat Navs Voice to hear it.. Need to test again to make sure it's not my imagination, but there certainly doesn't seem to be any obvious audio fading before satellite navigation instructions are not spoken......for comparison, it There is definitely some noticeable discoloration in the audio, for example when an incoming call appears. I was just wondering if anyone else had noticed that this effect might work as intended, it seemed different to how I remembered previous generation Media Pro working.
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| cbvjyf (245hp) | Quote: Originally posted by Northernmonkey Disclaimer I haven't done this yet so this might be something I just need to read..... .....mostly noticed while driving with the active guidance and voice instructions activated when Mrs. Sat Nav speaks as with previous versions of idrive, if you increase the volume Mrs. Sat Nav shouts louder at you so far so good. The subtle difference seems to be that before she speaks, the system does not appear to attenuate the audio source, but rather that she speaks over the audio (like a real woman!!!!) and if the audio is louder, you have to turn up Ms Sat Navs Voice to hear it.. Need to test again to make sure it's not my imagination, but there certainly doesn't seem to be any obvious audio fading before satellite navigation instructions are not spoken......for comparison, it There is definitely some noticeable discoloration in the audio, for example when an incoming call appears. I was just wondering if anyone else had noticed that this effect might work as intended, it seemed different to how I remembered professional media work from the previous generation. I also noticed this in my F10. I know the E60 worked well, but I think what causes Nav Lady to attenuate the audio is the volume of the audio. I haven't really tested this, but when my iPod was loud, I think my audio got a little quieter while the navigator lady was talking..
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| 24021994 (573hp) | Quote: Originally posted by NorthernMonkey, she rather speaks over the audio (like a real woman!!!!) You have achieved enlightenment, there is no need to read the manual.
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| 1144 (674hp) | Disclaimer, I haven't done this yet so this might be something I just need to read..... .....mostly noticed while driving with active guidance and the voice instructions activated when Mrs. Sat Nav speaks as with previous versions of idrive if you increase the volume Mrs. Sat Nav shouts louder to you so far so good. The subtle difference seems to be that before she speaks, the system does not appear to attenuate the audio source, but rather that she speaks over the audio (like a real woman!!!!) and if the audio is louder, you have to turn up Ms Sat Navs Voice to hear it.. Need to test again to make sure it's not my imagination, but there certainly doesn't seem to be any obvious audio fading before satellite navigation instructions are not spoken......for comparison, it There is definitely some noticeable discoloration in the audio, for example when an incoming call appears. I was just wondering if anyone else had noticed that this effect might work as intended, it seemed different to how I remembered previous generation Media Pro working.
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| a12345 (334hp) | Quote: Originally posted by Northernmonkey Disclaimer I haven't done this yet, so this might be something I just need to read..... .....mostly noticed while driving with the active guidance and voice instructions activated when Mrs. Sat Nav speaks as with previous versions of idrive, if you increase the volume Mrs. Sat Nav shouts louder at you so far so good. The subtle difference seems to be that before she speaks, the system does not appear to attenuate the audio source, but rather that she speaks over the audio (like a real woman!!!!) and if the audio is louder, you have to turn up Ms Sat Navs Voice to hear it.. Need to test again to make sure it's not my imagination, but there certainly doesn't seem to be any obvious audio fading before sat nav instructions are spoken......for comparison, there is definitely a noticeable fading of the audio, for example when an incoming call appears. I was just wondering if anyone else had noticed that this effect might work as intended, it seemed different to how I remembered professional media work from the previous generation. I noticed this in my F10 as well. I know the E60 worked well, but I think what causes Nav Lady to attenuate the audio is the volume of the audio. I haven't really tested this, but when my iPod was loud, I think my audio got a little quieter while the navigator lady was talking..
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| reece (529hp) | Quote: Originally posted by NorthernMonkey, she rather speaks over the audio (like a real woman!!!!) You have achieved enlightenment, there is no need to read the manual.
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| indra (781hp) | Quote: Originally posted by Jon D Short, regular trips like this will be harmful to any engine, regardless of fuel type. I need an office further from home then.
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| magenta (15hp) | Thanks Johnbmw6 and JonD for the answers.
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| chiens (29hp) | Quote: Posted by HighlandPete Not the best of trips, but you see, you have a gas engine, so probably the best engine for faster warm-ups. But I'm not sure there's much you can do, conditions dictate your usage. HighlandPete Good point and I agree, conditions dictate usage. Not much anyone can do during your ride.
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| sports3 (82hp) | Quote: Originally posted by Jon D What you say is interesting about the combustion knock: when you press it, without activating the kick-down, my 535d makes a nice low-end rumble, very reminiscent of the old ones Jaguar AJ6 engines. It's only when I start to press the accelerator that I notice a small clicking sound, which I misinterpreted as an injector noise. If that were the case, it would be present at all engine speeds and, on second thought, probably most audible at low revs. . This is only my second diesel and I find it significantly more refined than the 330d unit in my 2008 E92, but they are both extremely impressive engines. Who would have thought 10 years ago that a diesel engine would take you to 60 mph in less than 6 seconds and return over 40 mpg!!! Off topic, but I think you've chosen the best engine for UK use, Jon, especially if you're doing bigger mileages..
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| peters1 (289hp) | Quote: Originally posted by bmwarchitect So I need to have an office further away from home. Ha-ha, why don't you move instead. All joking aside, if you did a decent long run every weekend you'd burn off a lot of the accumulated condensate and largely offset the corrosion damage - you'd enjoy the car too. And, before you mention anything about additional fuel costs, keep in mind that you're talking to people who pay almost three times what you pay per gallon. .
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| babydog (874hp) | Quote: Originally posted by gatoman39 In terms of long term reliability, are there certain mechanical parts of the transmission that need more attention if a diesel engine is driven this way? I feel like the fuel system components, mainly the filters and water separators, need more attention than the gasoline versions. It's more about the contamination inside the intake manifold, EGR valve, intake valves, etc. Here in the UK, experience shows that in urban driving, on short journeys, particularly when cold, particles can build up to the point that the EGR valves are completely gummed up. . In extreme examples, the intake valves have been so charred that you may even lose compression and need decoking. This also seems to be made worse, as we can have periods of relatively high humidity, which only adds to the mix, producing stickier substances. When examining some engines, the top end seems full of tar. Mud, sludge, and wet carbon deposits simply tell you that the engines are operating under improper operating conditions. HighlandPete
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| bigjohn1 (680hp) | Quote: Originally posted by HighlandPete It's more about the contamination inside the intake manifold, EGR valve, intake valves, etc. Here in the UK, experience shows that in urban driving, on short journeys, particularly when cold, particles can build up to the point where the EGR valves become completely gummed up. In extreme examples, the intake valves have been so charred that you may even lose compression and need decoking. This also seems to be made worse, as we can have periods of relatively high humidity, which only adds to the mix, producing stickier substances. When examining some engines, the top end seems full of tar. Mud, sludge, and wet carbon deposits simply tell you that the engines are operating under improper operating conditions. HighlandPete HighlandPete, Does this apply to gasoline engines? I'm stuck with short trips around town (3km, 10mins, lots of lights), given that by the time I get home the engine has just reached room temperature, should I use the latest end of road to "blast" the engine for 5k-6k (N52, peak HP@6600), then turn it off 2 minutes later, or would I be better served by driving it normally? Today it was particularly humid, it was really slow..
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| ness (554hp) | Quote: Originally posted by grimlock HighlandPete, Does this apply to gasoline engines? I'm stuck with short trips around town (3km, 10mins, lots of lights), given that by the time I get home the engine has just reached room temperature, should I use the latest end of road to "blast" the engine for 5k-6k (N52, peak HP@6600), then turn it off 2 minutes later, or would I be better served by driving it normally? Today was particularly humid and the weather was really slow. We used to think that short trips were worse for gasoline engines than diesel engines, because the enriched gasoline "washed" the cylinder bores. Whereas with diesel, this was not the case. Fueling the gasoline engine is now much more controlled during the warm-up cycle and much faster than that of the diesel engine. Diesel is therefore now the poor cousin when making short journeys, especially in cold weather. Emissions control via EGR makes the diesel an easy target for being overrun with gunk. Simply put, large engines are not at all ideal for short trips and city driving, especially in colder climates and/or seasons. The smaller the engine, the harder it has to work, which is in its favor. IMO, gasoline wins as the best engine for city driving at the moment. HighlandPete
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| neruda (678hp) | Quote: Originally posted by grimlock HighlandPete, Does this apply to gasoline engines? I'm stuck with short trips around town (3km, 10mins, lots of lights), given that by the time I get home the engine has just reached room temperature, should I use the latest end of road to "blast" the engine for 5k-6k (N52, peak HP@6600), then turn it off 2 minutes later, or would I be better served by driving it normally? Today it was particularly humid, it was really slow. You absolutely should not blow up the engine before it has reached normal operating temperature. Why not do a longer run and open it when it's warmed through. Then drive calmly for a few miles to allow the oil, coolant and turbo temperatures to stabilize before stopping - this is better than idling because you have no engine flow. air forward through the engine compartment..
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| toejam (241hp) | Quote: Originally posted by HighlandPete We used to think that short trips were worse for gasoline engines than diesel engines, because the enriched gasoline "washed" the cylinder bores. Whereas with diesel, this was not the case. Fueling the gasoline engine is now much more controlled during the warm-up cycle and much faster than that of the diesel engine. Diesel is therefore now the poor cousin when making short journeys, especially in cold weather. Emissions control via EGR makes the diesel an easy target for being overrun with gunk. Simply put, large engines are not at all ideal for short trips and city driving, especially in colder climates and/or seasons. The smaller the engine, the harder it has to work, which is in its favor. IMO, gasoline wins as the best engine for city driving at the moment. HighlandPete Thanks for the info... alas, no diesel here, unless it has a blackout passenger compartment (-benz Vaino van, Range Rover freelander td4 etc.), but they have the advantage of a Much lower first registration tax and fuel is 1/3. the cost...still only allowed for "commercial" use, although some people do dual use..
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| cdtnkzxjr (840hp) | Quote: Originally posted by Jon D You definitely shouldn't blast the engine until it reaches normal operating temperature. Why not do a longer run and open it when it's warmed through. Then drive calmly for a few miles to allow the oil, oil fluid and turbo temperatures to stabilize before stopping - this is better than idling because you have no flow. air forward into the engine compartment. Yeah, thanks - I generally understand the principles of what to do/don't do. I drive at 2000 rpm or less at first, then 3-3.5 thousand from 70°C. I was wondering if a short "blast" was better once I reached 100+, which would increase the temperature further before an inevitable shutdown soon after, instead of not doing the blast, which would only increase no more the temperature. before I have to stop... I have the temptation to drive for fun, and I do, but I still have to justify doing it to myself every time... I wish I lived more far, I activate any transmission mode "Sport+" once I'm in the parking lot, the needle drops to 1k and below for the last 1-2 minutes. I do everything I can to pamper the baby
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| fresita (534hp) | Quote: Posted by sliced No, it stays the same. What diesel have you owned, buddy?
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| 03041989 (310hp) | Quote: Originally posted by Jon D Short, regular trips like this will be harmful to any engine, regardless of fuel type. I need an office further from home then.
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| 140690 (382hp) | Thanks Johnbmw6 and JonD for the answers.
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| abcabc1 (651hp) | Quote: Posted by HighlandPete Not the best of trips, but you see, you have a gas engine, so probably the best engine for faster warm-ups. But I'm not sure there's much you can do, conditions dictate your usage. HighlandPete Good point and I agree, conditions dictate usage. Not much anyone can do during your ride.
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| treetirdy5 (621hp) | Quote: Originally posted by Jon D What you say is interesting about the combustion knock: when you press it, without activating the kick-down, my 535d makes a nice low-end rumble, very reminiscent of the old ones Jaguar AJ6 engines. It's only when I start to press the accelerator that I notice a small clicking sound, which I misinterpreted as an injector noise. If that were the case, it would be present at all engine speeds and, on second thought, probably most audible at low revs. . This is only my second diesel and I find it significantly more refined than the 330d unit in my 2008 E92, but they are both extremely impressive engines. Who would have thought 10 years ago that a diesel engine would take you to 60 mph in less than 6 seconds and return over 40 mpg!!! Off topic, but I think you've chosen the best engine for UK use, Jon, especially if you're doing bigger mileages..
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| exercise (773hp) | Quote: Originally posted by bmwarchitect So I need to have an office further away from home. Ha-ha, why don't you move instead. All joking aside, if you did a decent long run every weekend you'd burn off a lot of the accumulated condensate and largely offset the corrosion damage - you'd enjoy the car too. And, before you mention anything about additional fuel costs, keep in mind that you're talking to people who pay almost three times what you pay per gallon. .
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| 260183 (88hp) | Quote: Originally posted by gatoman39 In terms of long term reliability, are there certain mechanical parts of the transmission that need more attention if a diesel engine is driven this way? I feel like the fuel system components, mainly the filters and water separators, need more attention than the gasoline versions. It's more about the contamination inside the intake manifold, EGR valve, intake valves, etc. Here in the UK, experience shows that in urban driving, on short journeys, particularly when cold, particles can build up to the point that the EGR valves are completely gummed up. . In extreme examples, the intake valves have been so charred that you may even lose compression and need decoking. This also seems to be made worse, as we can have periods of relatively high humidity, which only adds to the mix, producing stickier substances. When examining some engines, the top end seems full of tar. Mud, sludge, and wet carbon deposits simply tell you that the engines are operating under improper operating conditions. HighlandPete
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| ladyluck (562hp) | Quote: Originally posted by HighlandPete It's more about the contamination inside the intake manifold, EGR valve, intake valves, etc. Here in the UK, experience shows that in urban driving, on short journeys, particularly when cold, particles can build up to the point where the EGR valves become completely gummed up. In extreme examples, the intake valves have been so charred that you may even lose compression and need decoking. This also seems to be made worse, as we can have periods of relatively high humidity, which only adds to the mix, producing stickier substances. When examining some engines, the top end seems full of tar. Mud, sludge, and wet carbon deposits simply tell you that the engines are operating under improper operating conditions. HighlandPete HighlandPete, Does this apply to gasoline engines? I'm stuck with short trips around town (3km, 10mins, lots of lights), given that by the time I get home the engine has just reached room temperature, should I use the latest end of road to "blast" the engine for 5k-6k (N52, peak HP@6600), then turn it off 2 minutes later, or would I be better served by driving it normally? Today it was particularly humid, it was really slow..
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| georgy (956hp) | Quote: Originally posted by grimlock HighlandPete, Does this apply to gasoline engines? I'm stuck with short trips around town (3km, 10mins, lots of lights), given that by the time I get home the engine has just reached room temperature, should I use the latest end of road to "blast" the engine for 5k-6k (N52, peak HP@6600), then turn it off 2 minutes later, or would I be better served by driving it normally? Today was particularly humid and the weather was really slow. We used to think that short trips were worse for gasoline engines than diesel engines, because the enriched gasoline "washed" the cylinder bores. Whereas with diesel, this was not the case. Fueling the gasoline engine is now much more controlled during the warm-up cycle and much faster than that of the diesel engine. Diesel is therefore now the poor cousin when making short journeys, especially in cold weather. Emissions control via EGR makes the diesel an easy target for being overrun with gunk. Simply put, large engines are not at all ideal for short trips and city driving, especially in colder climates and/or seasons. The smaller the engine, the harder it has to work, which is in its favor. IMO, gasoline wins as the best engine for city driving at the moment. HighlandPete
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| stjoseph (775hp) | Quote: Originally posted by grimlock HighlandPete, Does this apply to gasoline engines? I'm stuck with short trips around town (3km, 10mins, lots of lights), given that by the time I get home the engine has just reached room temperature, should I use the latest end of road to "blast" the engine for 5k-6k (N52, peak HP@6600), then turn it off 2 minutes later, or would I be better served by driving it normally? Today it was particularly humid, it was really slow. You absolutely should not blow up the engine before it has reached normal operating temperature. Why not do a longer run and open it when it's warmed through. Then drive calmly for a few miles to allow the oil, coolant and turbo temperatures to stabilize before stopping - this is better than idling because you have no engine flow. air forward through the engine compartment..
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| pGtab (563hp) | Quote: Originally posted by HighlandPete We used to think that short trips were worse for gasoline engines than diesel engines, because the enriched gasoline "washed" the cylinder bores. Whereas with diesel, this was not the case. Fueling the gasoline engine is now much more controlled during the warm-up cycle and much faster than that of the diesel engine. Diesel is therefore now the poor cousin when making short journeys, especially in cold weather. Emissions control via EGR makes the diesel an easy target for being overrun with gunk. Simply put, large engines are not at all ideal for short trips and city driving, especially in colder climates and/or seasons. The smaller the engine, the harder it has to work, which is in its favor. IMO, gasoline wins as the best engine for city driving at the moment. HighlandPete Thanks for the info... alas, no diesel here, unless it has a blackout passenger compartment (-benz Vaino van, Range Rover freelander td4 etc.), but they have the advantage of a Much lower first registration tax and fuel is 1/3. the cost...still only allowed for "commercial" use, although some people do dual use..
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| christian9 (821hp) | Quote: Originally posted by Jon D You definitely shouldn't blast the engine until it reaches normal operating temperature. Why not do a longer run and open it when it's warmed through. Then drive calmly for a few miles to allow the oil, oil fluid and turbo temperatures to stabilize before stopping - this is better than idling because you have no flow. air forward into the engine compartment. Yeah, thanks - I generally understand the principles of what to do/don't do. I drive at 2000 rpm or less at first, then 3-3.5 thousand from 70°C. I was wondering if a short "blast" was better once I reached 100+, which would increase the temperature further before an inevitable shutdown soon after, instead of not doing the blast, which would only increase no more the temperature. before I have to stop... I have the temptation to drive for fun, and I do, but I still have to justify doing it to myself every time... I wish I lived more far, I activate any transmission mode "Sport+" once I'm in parking, the needle drops to 1k and below for the last 1-2 minutes. I do everything I can to pamper the baby
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| grandam1 (597hp) | Quote: Posted by sliced No, it stays the same. What diesel have you owned, buddy?
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| kitty666 (244hp) | Hello Since I bought my BMW, when I use the ventilation/climatronic, I very often hear a whistling sound coming from the front central air vents. This looks like air flowing between the air mixer louvers. Not all the time but usually at 90% of triggering. No matter the short or long journey. Sometimes it helps for a short time when I turn AUTO to minimum. It's boring.
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| Rochdale Pioneers (133hp) | Quote: Originally posted by TIGER Hello Since I bought my BMW, when I use the ventilation/climatronic, I very often hear a whistling sound coming from the front center air vents. I noticed the same thing on a recent trip. One of those little things I decided to ignore for the sake of my sanity. But I just wanted to confirm: you are not alone (the first step is to admit our obsessive and compulsive nature. ).
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| malina_bratsk (557hp) | the same for me (AC with extended features for driver and passenger). It's a bit boring.
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| chevy03 (274hp) | Quote: Posted by cagatacos it's the same for me (AC with functionality extended to driver and passenger). It's rather boring. Same for me. Deadly boring. You can get rid of it by increasing the auto intensity beyond 3, but at this point it's blowing too hard.
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| 140984 (261hp) | Same here! I'm taking mine to the dealership....
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| LiKWiD335xi (30hp) | Same for me, very annoying, because the rest of the car is so well soundproofed that I can even hear it at 100 km/h. And that’s only by car. In manual mode, with fan speed 4 or lower on all 4 zones, this completely disappears. But even if the rear is in automatic mode, the whistle is back.
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| danielle23 (170hp) | Wow, I'm glad to hear I'm not the only one! It started for me when I started using the heater. Sometimes there is a real whistle. I'm going to take it to the dealer because I also have a rattle coming from my right rear speaker box.
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| dima1987 (977hp) | Well, same here with different settings. I only hear this when I set the middle wheel to Red for hot air. I also hear it when the air conditioning is off and the wheel is set to Blue...
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| 06071988 (242hp) | Are your side vents open or closed when this happens? If they are closed, try opening them to see if it makes a difference.
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| 199510 (246hp) | Same problem, it comes and goes when the automatic climate control adjusts the shutters etc. Seems to be reduced if automatic recirculation is forced to recirculate only. I went to the dealer, who heard it right away, he offered to take the car and take the air conditioning system apart to repair it or change it once they tried to repair the original one , but that means removing the dashboard. ..so I'll live with it for now. Since there are so many cars apparently affected, I hope BMW identifies the root cause and releases a specific fix..
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| 270692 (610hp) | Same noise with mine. The few times I've noticed it, I readjust the fan intensity up or down a notch..
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| 09091977 (339hp) | Same here.
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| 17101991 (74hp) | When were all your cars (with the whine) built? I noticed a difference between my car (built in July 2010) and the newer ones at BMW Welt. There appears to be extra plastic in newer cars behind the vent itself. My car doesn't whine. In exchange for this silence, my rear vents produce no air.
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| isabella (268hp) | I have the same problem. November production. In this German thread, someone claims that the problem is a known issue (since December 20) at BMW and that there is a fix. http://www.motor-talk.de/forum/pfeif...15.html?page=2
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| 030677 (16hp) | my F10 was built in late November and early December 2010. Model year is 2011. Issues exist. Frenil-could you explain the problem? I don't speak German.
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| bella5 (589hp) | Quote: Originally posted by TIGER My F10 was built in late November and early December 2010. Model year is 2011. Issues exist. Frenil-could you explain the problem? I don't speak German. Well, the problem matches your description in the original post. There is no detailed information on the fix that I know of. A German dealer has confirmed that this is a known issue. My German skills are also a bit limited, so I may have missed something... My dealer just called and is going to take a look on January 19th..
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| fred22 (842hp) | Same problem with my car...
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| Cleanasscoupe (384hp) | Quote: Originally posted by Snapper Chris Are your side vents open or closed when this happens? If they are closed, try opening them to see if that makes a difference. My side vents are still open but I can hear noise from the middle vent... ...and mine is also built in July..
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| chemistry (647hp) | I don't have a whistle but the front air vents are loud no matter what setting I use. Even when I turn the fan down to the slowest automatic setting, I can hear the fan. It gets a little better if I turn the temperature dial on the front dash to turn up the heat..
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| DanChapman90 (357hp) | f11 520 d sport auto 17`extendead AC the whistles continue... And the dashboard vents near the front window always have heated air regardless of temperature regulation. Even if I set the temperature to 19-20°, those in the middle and those on the sides have cold air. The ones on the front window blow hot air all the time. It is impossible to have a constant and controlled temperature. By the way, if I turn off the front dashboard vents, the whistle is quieter (if I have the auto function only on the passenger side, it's quieter). No relation to the rear vents. I don't understand the function of regulating the palette with blue and red. what is the goal and where should it be in the red/blue middle?? you have two buttons with temperature regulation with an accuracy of 0.5 є C...
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| RealStig (283hp) | Quote: Posted by gorban I don't have a whistle but the front vents are loud no matter what setting I use. Even when I turn the fan down to the slowest automatic setting, I can hear the fan. It gets a little better if I turn the temperature dial on the front dash to turn up the heat. I agree, if you set it to manual it's fine, as long as the fan is at level 4 or lower. I think with 5 intensity levels in auto mode they could focus on a low noise level on the lowest setting in auto mode..
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| samuel21 (6hp) | I have the same problem with the whistle. Mine was built in October 2010. I asked the dealer about this, and he didn't seem to know of a solution..
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| lamj (935hp) | Hello Since I bought my BMW, when I use the ventilation/climatronic, I very often hear a whistling sound coming from the front central air vents. This looks like air flowing between the air mixer louvers. Not all the time but usually at 90% of triggering. No matter the short or long journey. Sometimes it helps for a short time when I turn AUTO to minimum. It's boring.
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| 3377 (108hp) | Quote: Originally posted by TIGER Hello Since I bought my BMW, when I use the ventilation/climatronic, I very often hear a whistling sound coming from the front center air vents. I noticed the same thing on a recent trip. One of those little things I decided to ignore for the sake of my sanity. But I just wanted to confirm: you are not alone (the first step is to admit our obsessive and compulsive nature. ).
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| haven1 (54hp) | the same for me (AC with extended features for driver and passenger). It's a bit boring.
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| 07091989 (468hp) | Quote: Posted by cagatacos it's the same for me (AC with functionality extended to driver and passenger). It's rather boring. Same for me. Deadly boring. You can get rid of it by increasing the auto intensity beyond 3, but at this point it's blowing too hard.
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| jor23dan (166hp) | Same here! I'm taking mine to the dealership....
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| moliere (53hp) | Same for me, very annoying, because the rest of the car is so well soundproofed that I can even hear it at 100 km/h. And that’s only by car. In manual mode, with fan speed 4 or lower on all 4 zones, this completely disappears. But even if the rear is in automatic mode, the whistle is back.
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| 200892 (512hp) | Wow, I'm glad to hear I'm not the only one! It started for me when I started using the heater. Sometimes there is a real whistle. I'm going to take it to the dealer because I also have a rattle coming from my right rear speaker box.
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| chloe2 (967hp) | Well, same here with different settings. I only hear this when I set the middle wheel to Red for hot air. I also hear it when the air conditioning is off and the wheel is set to Blue...
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| miss (975hp) | Are your side vents open or closed when this happens? If they are closed, try opening them to see if that makes a difference.
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| olivia08 (868hp) | Same problem, it comes and goes when the automatic climate control adjusts the shutters etc. Seems to be reduced if auto recirculation is forced to recirculate only. I went to the dealer, who heard it right away, he offered to take the car and take the air conditioning system apart to repair it or change it once they tried to repair the original one , but that means removing the dashboard. ..so I'll live with it for now. Since there are so many cars apparently affected, I hope BMW identifies the root cause and releases a specific fix..
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| superhuman (301hp) | Same noise with mine. The few times I've noticed it, I readjust the fan intensity up or down a notch..
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| hahaha11 (378hp) | Same here.
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| 080898 (901hp) | When were all your cars (with the whine) built? I noticed a difference between my car (built in July 2010) and the newer ones at BMW Welt. There appears to be extra plastic in newer cars behind the vent itself. My car doesn't whine. In exchange for this silence, my rear vents produce no air.
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| califas13 (129hp) | I have the same problem. November production. In this German thread, someone claims that the problem is a known issue (since December 20) at BMW and that there is a fix. http://www.motor-talk.de/forum/pfeif...15.html?page=2
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| claus (126hp) | my F10 was built in late November and early December 2010. Model year is 2011. Issues exist. Frenil-could you explain the problem? I don't speak German.
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| 20041983 (3hp) | Quote: Originally posted by TIGER My F10 was built in late November and early December 2010. Model year is 2011. Issues exist. Frenil-could you explain the problem? I don't speak German. Well, the problem matches your description in the original post. There is no detailed information on the fix that I know of. A German dealer has confirmed that this is a known issue. My German skills are also a bit limited, so I may have missed something... My dealer just called and is going to take a look on January 19th..
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| Rshane (625hp) | Same problem with my car...
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| nayeli (290hp) | Quote: Originally posted by Snapper Chris Are your side vents open or closed when this happens? If they are closed, try opening them to see if that makes a difference. My side vents are still open but I can hear noise from the middle vent... ...and mine is also built in July..
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| F15GorDe (140hp) | I don't have a whistle but the front air vents are loud no matter what setting I use. Even when I turn the fan down to the slowest automatic setting, I can hear the fan. It gets a little better if I turn the temperature dial on the front dash to turn up the heat..
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| 588588 (443hp) | f11 520 d sport auto 17`extendead AC the whistles continue... And the dashboard vents near the front window always have heated air regardless of temperature regulation. Even if I set the temperature to 19-20°, those in the middle and those on the sides have cold air. The ones on the front window blow hot air all the time. It is impossible to have a constant and controlled temperature. By the way, if I turn off the front dashboard vents, the whistle is quieter (if I have the auto function only on the passenger side, it's quieter). No relation to the rear vents. I don't understand the function of regulating the palette with blue and red. what is the goal and where should it be in the red/blue middle?? you have two buttons with temperature regulation with an accuracy of 0.5 є C...
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| 021083 (342hp) | Quote: Posted by gorban I don't have a whistle but the front vents are loud no matter what setting I use. Even when I turn the fan down to the slowest automatic setting, I can hear the fan. It gets a little better if I turn the temperature dial on the front dash to turn up the heat. I agree, if you set it to manual it's fine, as long as the fan is at level 4 or lower. I think with 5 intensity levels in auto mode they could focus on a low noise level on the lowest setting in auto mode..
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All BMW 5 Series models receive the extremely fast and precise, not to mention extraordinarily efficient, 8-speed automatic transmission provided as standard equipment. The 8-speed automatic now comes with a coasting function and can also be ordered with Sport Automatic shift paddles on the steering wheel. The Sport Automatic option, standard for the 2014 BMW 550i Sedan models, stands out with impressive shift dynamics and now includes Launch Control. Driving Dynamics Control. The fine-tuning carried out on the chassis for the 2014 BMW 5 Series models makes for an even more assured conversion of engine power into dynamic performance and ride comfort. Both the double-wishbone front axle and the integral rear axle are made largely of aluminum. They allow the spring and damper systems to respond with great precision to inconsistencies in the road surface and ensure optimum road holding at all times. The overall result is a balance between sporty ability and ride comfort that no rival can better. Whats more, the cars set-up can be adapted to suit individual needs or the driving situation at hand using the standard equipment Driving Dynamics Control switch on the center console. Pressing the button changes the driving mode, altering the responses of the accelerator and steering, as well as if so equipped the shift characteristics of the automatic transmission and the settings of the electronically controlled dampers. The cars driving characteristics are further enhanced by the Adaptive Drive system, which includes Active Roll Stabilization and Dynamic Damper Control. Electronically controlled anti-roll bars help to reduce the cars body roll through quickly taken corners and in sudden changes of direction, for example. In addition to controlling the amount of speed-dependent steering assistance generated and regulating the steering angle of the front wheels, Integral Active Steering also adjusts the steering angle of the rear wheels. This system imbues the car with impressive agility in dynamic driving situations, comfortable and assured reactions when changing lanes and through corners, and optimized maneuverability through tight bends and in city traffic. The newly updated 2014 BMW 5 Series Sedan and Gran Turismo will arrive in US later this year in August 2013." (222hp) | I have the same problem with the whistle. Mine was built in October 2010. I asked the dealer about this, and he didn't seem to know of a solution..
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