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| ladylady (427hp) | Quote: Originally posted by HighlandPete Here's a quote from Autocar's latest 520d test report. Quote: Certainly, the 5 Series feels more at home on the highway, but it's not without its rewards, provided you appreciate a feeling of fluidity rather than immediacy. I understand this comment, I think this is part of the problem, BMW has gone for smoothness, not all BMW drivers see this as a priority for good driving dynamics. This is precisely what I mentioned in the other thread. For someone like me who has driven the evolution of BMW's Ultimate Driving Machine, from a 2002tii to an E60 and just about everything in between, my immediate reaction was to this latest "evolution" of a new “fluidity”. (IMHO, I'm also assimilating the Joy campaign, while ditching the Ultimate Driving Machine, indicative of this change.) But for someone new to the brand, perhaps none of this matters. is important. And of course I understand that. But for those of us who don't consider this a priority for good driving dynamics, we are honestly concerned about the "new fluid dynamics." If the 5er is now more of a smaller 7er, then that's no problem. But it's a bit of a surprise for those like me who come from previous versions. And as I mentioned in the other thread, one option is to stick with the 3ers and/or M division models. To be frank, the distance between the 5er (as Ultimate Driving Machine) has now reduced compared to the competition (MB/AMG, Jaguar, etc.). For me, nothing has ever been able to beat the driving dynamics of the BMW 5er in previous incarnations. But that may no longer be the case. I think we all know that part of the chassis change with the 5er was not only being able to assemble the F10 alongside the F01, but also being more competitive in the mid-size luxury car class. My big question to Pete: I'm considering the 550i (but maybe wait until the M5 is here to compare.) Do you think someone like me (coming from the dynamics of previous versions) can be really satisfied outside from simply getting used to it. I realize this is very subjective, but I think you know where I'm coming from. To put it bluntly, can the F10 be transformed into a dynamic "E60 style" chassis without RFT and some suspension modifications (or is the car's computer system too tied up in everything now)? Thank you for your contribution (and by the way, your messages are useful and informative to me, ie: adaptive training and PE.)
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| musicrocker (680hp) | Quote: Originally posted by stickypaws ...My big question for Pete: I'm considering the 550i (but maybe wait until the M5 is here first to compare.) Do you think someone like me ( coming from the dynamics of previous versions) can be truly satisfied, apart from just getting used to it. I realize this is very subjective, but I think you know where I'm coming from. To put it bluntly, can the F10 be transformed into a dynamic "E60 style" chassis without RFT and some suspension modifications (or is the car's computer system too tied up in everything now)? This is a question I also ask. I'm in the position where I could have ordered a car months ago, to get fast delivery, but I'm not sure I have the full picture. I came from an E39 540i touring (wagon) on M-tech suspension and loved the dynamics of this car. I never had the same sensations with the early E60/1 M sports cars, far too harsh and unrefined for the roads I drive. So I moved up to the 3 series which I thought was more sorted and learned a lot about the limitations of tires and suspension in all three. The E60/1 LCI models seemed to find a better balance, in my opinion, I was very tempted to get a 535d touring after a week with one, but decided to wait for the F10/11. Personally, I think the current cars are better than the E39, but different. Get the specs correct (we need the feedback) on which to be more selective. If I had to make a decision today, I'd add Adaptive Drive, sport auto, and "probably" 19 wheels, because the cars I've tested run better on 19s. That's the wheel bit I'm still not sure about. not sure, if you remove the run-flats then 18 is my first choice. But like you say, all decision making is a very subjective thing. Personally, I have to deal with some interesting road surfaces, so I want a car that can give a little more comfort and smoothness (which the E39 gave us) rather than the tighter responses (the early E60/ 1) which can result in harsh and unpredictable driving. HighlandPete
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| christop (276hp) | Following my previous post: I focused very much on the feeling of my steering (530d, adaptive drive, anti-roll, etc.) and I found nothing to complain about. The slight sensation I spoke of in my previous post now seems completely absent. As I said before, the steering feel of my new car is far superior to my previous e60. In my opinion, the new steering system is precise and precise.
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| stevenfaustin (844hp) | Quote: Originally posted by HighlandPete This seems like strange behavior, tire influence will normally show up at different speeds, as it will be influenced by the road surface. You might have a different problem than what some people are reporting, we should not assume we are all talking about the same/same problem. For example, do you have auto sport and DDC which allows you to adjust the steering in i-Drive? In other words, you can change the feel/weighting. What wheel model/size do you have? HighlandPete My car is a standard 520D SE on 18 wheels. I just drove 170 miles at speeds between 70 and 80 and I'm afraid I won't be able to accept the inconsistent levels of steering wheel feedback. It's like using a bad Playstation steering wheel... in a real car!
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| boomer10 (178hp) | Update. I finally made it to my local dealership, who had a master technician drive my car on the highway. After a few miles he started to notice the steering feel I had described. When we returned to the dealership we jumped into another 520 and repeated During the trip he immediately pointed out that this car seemed much more direct, we turned around and I went back, I too felt this car was much better and a million miles from my car. The tech thought it might be the steering rack itself, either way my car is now booked for the whole of next week to fix the problem (convenient as I'm traveling for business). I will keep you all posted. BTW..great service from Rybrook BMW Warwick. N16E
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| Philipp (927hp) | Quote: Posted by HighlandPete.... Get the specs correct (we need feedback) on which to be more selective. If I had to make a decision today, I'd add Adaptive Drive, sport auto, and "probably" 19 wheels, because the cars I've tested run better on 19s. That's the wheel bit I'm still not sure about. not sure, if you remove the run-flats then 18 is my first choice. ,,, I strongly recommend interactive piloting with AD.
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| ginebra (275hp) | Thanks Pete for your response. The consensus seems to be that the AD option is central here. And Pharding also seems to agree. My personal experience driving the F10 was without AD (see this thread: http://f10.5post.com/forums/showthre...88#post8090988) As with any new paradigm, previous experiences will eventually fade and become replaced/accepted by something else. That is to say, we will eventually get used to it. There isn't much choice in the matter..
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| techdeck1 (402hp) | Update - My car has been at the local dealership since Monday (now Saturday), a ZF engineer arrived yesterday from BMW Germany, and they decided to send my steering rack back to Germany for investigation and order me a complete new rack. They think it's an isolated case. Excellent customer service experience from Rybrook Warwick (BMW even loaned me a brand new, fully loaded F10 M - Sport until mine was repaired, when that was). I'll keep you up-to-date. PS - I knew the management wasn't good!!
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| 181 (962hp) | I'm a new 520d owner and have just completed my first reasonable distance trip (200 mile combination of Mway and A road). Really glad I found this thread because my car's steering between 70 and 80 mph is decidedly strange. Very similar to the description of M16E: wooden/sticky/inconsistent. I couldn't relax at all and had to constantly focus, correct, correct. In 25 years of driving many different cars, I have never experienced anything like this before. Similar route tomorrow, so I'm going to switch the box to sport and see if that makes a difference. My specs are 18 inch wheels, standard suspension and Continental tires. I will report back. The rest of the car is an absolute joy.
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| NYCMCBM3 (210hp) | I'm a new F11 owner and have the same strange steering feel when driving 70-80 mph, I've only had the car a few days but will keep an eye out for this issue. Below 70 mph the steering is completely fine, but between 70 and 80 mph it feels very strange. I have the sport auto transmission, so I will try it in sport mode to see if that solves the problem. I spoke to my dealer about this today. The car is otherwise simply brilliant..
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| 020180 (79hp) | I had my 535 x-drive washed yesterday at the hand wash in my underground parking lot in my office complex. When I went to pick it up and move it to a regular parking spot, I received an error stating a DSC and X-Drive malfunction and the instruction to drive carefully and go to the nearest BMW dealership . I called my dealer and was informed that I could drive the car and they made me an appointment for Tuesday (it was Friday). I was a little worried since I live over 100 miles from the city and I was afraid to ride that many miles in these conditions, but I left it at that. It was noon and I returned to my office for more meetings. I left early (a little worried about my baby) and arrived at my car around 3:00 p.m. When I started it this time, not only did I get the DSC and X-Drive error, but then I got a dreaded transmission malfunction error. This time the car went into limp mode, I was only able to move at about 3 km/h. Of course I called the dealership and was told to bring it back. I was able to drive it out of the parking lot and onto the street where roadside assistance had sent a truck to tow it (no flatbed was available to take me to the dealership before they closed and I had to get there in time to get a loan for the weekend), so it ended up being pulled on carts (no damage). The dealer will look at it on Tuesday because Monday is a holiday. I was lucky to be able to get a loan, because in the past I was stuck without one this expensive. My question: has anyone else had the same issues? On the light side, I had an appointment on Wednesday to have mud flaps installed so now I no longer need to make a special trip for that. Thanks, Bill
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| fishman1 (659hp) | BTW, the loaner is a 323i. Now I appreciate having a loaner but the only thing I pushed out of line while driving was a one legged man on a bike and even then it was close for the first 100 meters.!
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| addy27 (948hp) | I got the car back today and the problem is resolved. The malfunctions were not actually malfunctions but the lack of sensors to work due to low voltage. Apparently my battery was low. They recharged my battery and I'm ready to go. If my battery dies again, they will replace it. Bill
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| tgame80 (978hp) | I had my 535 x-drive washed yesterday in the hand wash in my underground parking lot in my office complex. When I went to pick it up and move it to a regular parking spot, I received an error stating a DSC and X-Drive malfunction and the instruction to drive carefully and go to the nearest BMW dealership . I called my dealer and was informed that I could drive the car and they made me an appointment for Tuesday (it was Friday). I was a little worried since I live over 100 miles from the city and was afraid to ride that many miles in these conditions, but I left it at that. It was noon and I returned to my office for more meetings. I left early (a little worried about my baby) and arrived at my car around 3:00 p.m. When I started it this time, not only did I get the DSC and X-Drive error, but then I got a dreaded transmission malfunction error. This time the car went into limp mode, I was only able to move at about 3 km/h. Of course I called the dealership and was told to bring it back. I was able to drive it out of the parking lot and onto the street where roadside assistance had sent a truck to tow it (no flatbed was available to take me to the dealership before they closed and I had to get there in time to get a loan for the weekend), so it ended up being pulled on carts (no damage). The dealer will look at it on Tuesday because Monday is a holiday. I was lucky to be able to get a loan, because in the past I was stuck without one this expensive. My question: has anyone else had the same issues? On the light side, I had an appointment on Wednesday to have mud flaps installed so now I no longer need to make a special trip for that. Thanks, Bill
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| 300492 (954hp) | BTW, the loaner is a 323i. Now I appreciate having a loaner but the only thing I pushed out of line while driving was a one legged man on a bike and even then it was close for the first 100 meters.!
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| tigresse (688hp) | I picked up the car today and the problem is resolved. The malfunctions were not actually malfunctions but the lack of sensors to work due to low voltage. Apparently my battery was low. They recharged my battery and I'm ready to go. If my battery dies again, they will replace it. Bill
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| bogota (198hp) | I am planning and preparing a Dinan Reflash for my 550. I want to do it with a BMW dealer. The two Dinan BMW dealerships closest to me are New Port Beach BMW and Crevier BMW. I have heard that Crevier is a dealership more focused on customer satisfaction. If you have had any experience with Crevier..... Can you please recommend a good service rep who is generally willing to offer good deals and is flexible with minor warranty issues. I will take advantage of the 20% reduction offered by Dinan.
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| honda02 (866hp) | if you want to take a ride to BMW San Diego I recommend Glenn Widdop, the best, have worked with him for years.
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| chazzee (262hp) | I recently upgraded from Dinan to Crevier. Mark Hsieh was my service advisor. He was helpful and responsive.
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| saadia (533hp) | Ok Thanks everyone, I think SD is a bit too far. I will follow Vortexx's reference. I will call Mark and let him know you recommended me. How do you like Vortexx? does it really transform the car? Is the throttle response also better? Engine smoothness is maintained?
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| Mpistolis21 (82hp) | Wow! So BMW NA approves Dinan products and does not void your warranty if you have their ECU reflash?
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| [email protected] (424hp) | Do any of these performance modifications threaten warranty coverage? Engine durability/reliability?
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| 271081 (148hp) | crevier is great! I also had Mark Hsieh the last time I was there!
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| albert123 (422hp) | As far as I know, BMW NA does not officially endorse Dinan products. However, they have a working relationship. Some (not all) BMW dealers offer and sell Dinan products. If you modify your car with a Dinan product and something goes wrong, BMW will send a representative to evaluate the car. If it is determined that the problem is caused by the Dinan product, BMW will not cover the costs necessary to resolve the problem. Your warranty won't be voided, but it's the same thing, since BMW won't cover it. But your warranty will remain in effect for other non-Dinan related issues if they arise. In a perfect world, this is where Dinan steps in and covers the repair costs. they usually do, but I have read complaints on the forums about Dinan, disputing that a particular problem was not caused by them and that the customer had to go back and forth between BMW and Dinan. This is why I will modify my car at a BMW dealership that also sells and installs Dinan products, that way if there is a dispute between Dinan and BMW, the dealership is the one that does both, and the dealership will have to sort out who they get the money from. Most people are very happy with their Dinan pieces and have no problems. Dinan does a lot of R&D and knows BMWs very well. Even if I take some risks, there is at least some sort of warranty that should cover me if something goes wrong with my car. For example, if you do a Dinan re-flash and your suspension fails, BMW will cover this because the Dinan re-flash does not affect the suspension. But if your turbocharger fails, Dinan will have to intervene because the tuning gives more power to the turbos, so BMW won't pay for it..
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| blue43 (393hp) | As for durability, I think BMW overdesigns their cars and there is room for more power. But, like any car, if you want to beat it up and drive it really hard all the time, you'll wear out the moving parts faster, whether they're modified or stock. The Dinan tune puts more stress on the engine, turbos, transmission, etc. But I'm not going to drive my car hard all the time. Boost only builds up when you accelerate or at top speed when the car tries to accelerate and wind resistance no longer allows acceleration (or going up a hill...you get the idea) , so when you are driving at half throttle maintaining a constant speed, you are barely using the turbos. The 550 is a 4.4-liter twin-turbo V8 that revs to 7,000 rpm. It only develops 400 hp. Some 4.0-liter engines can develop 400 hp without a turbo. That's not to say BMW can't do the same, they did it with the M5 and M3. What I mean is that this motor is not heavily stressed and is tuned for 450 pounds of torque. The maximum boost in this car is 9.8 psi, which is quite low for a turbo engine. I think there is room to push this car further (Dinan takes it to 14.5 psi), but there is always some risk and a bit more wear and stress on the car. there are many other factors like injectors maxing out, heat being absorbed, pipes leaking due to higher boost pressure, etc. I count on Dinan to do his job on these problems. I will be returning this car after 3 years and approximately 45,000 miles. If I drive hard, in short bursts and without heavy high power driving, I should be fine. However, I'm taking risks and will expose the car to even more stress. Can it handle it? we will have to wait and see.
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| mzwicker (207hp) | Quote: Posted by BMW9 Ok Thanks everyone, I think SD is a bit too far. I will follow Vortexx's reference. I will call Mark and let him know you recommended me. How do you like Vortexx? does it really transform the car? Is the throttle response also better? Is engine smoothness maintained? The car remains virtually the same in normal driving. The smoothness of the engine is the same, the throttle response is also the same, below about 3,000 rpm. Above 3000 it really pulls. 0-60 times aren't dramatically improved, but 40 mph to 100 mph happens in a flash.
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| auditor (451hp) | Update: Unable to contact Marc. I dropped my car off at Arron in Crevier on Saturday afternoon and got a loan. The car is still there. 3 days so far for one hour reflash. he said the last car they did took them 2 days because of a software problem. It must have been your Vortexx car. I'm a little frustrated because he said it would be ready in a day.
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| hfrtnf (22hp) | I am planning and preparing a Dinan Reflash for my 550. I want to do it with a BMW dealer. The two Dinan BMW dealerships closest to me are New Port Beach BMW and Crevier BMW. I have heard that Crevier is a dealership more focused on customer satisfaction. If you have had any experience with Crevier..... Can you please recommend a good service rep who is generally willing to offer good deals and is flexible with minor warranty issues. I will take advantage of the 20% reduction offered by Dinan.
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| jeremy14 (676hp) | if you want to take a ride to BMW San Diego I recommend Glenn Widdop, the best, have worked with him for years.
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| billy23 (447hp) | I recently upgraded from Dinan to Crevier. Mark Hsieh was my service advisor. He was helpful and responsive.
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| retsam (959hp) | Ok Thanks everyone, I think SD is a bit too far. I will follow Vortexx's reference. I will call Mark and let him know you recommended me. How do you like Vortexx? does it really transform the car? Is the throttle response also better? Engine smoothness is maintained?
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| snowball11 (214hp) | Wow! So BMW NA approves Dinan products and does not void your warranty if you have their ECU reflash?
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| socrates1 (444hp) | Do any of these performance modifications threaten warranty coverage? Engine durability/reliability?
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| yandel (20hp) | crevier is great! I also had Mark Hsieh the last time I was there!
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| 18081984 (908hp) | Hi guys, I've had the 535d MS for a few days now but only a few miles. I find the gaerbox a bit strange, I actually have the auto sport option. If I'm in normal auto mode and want to overtake, etc. and I suddenly press the accelerator all the way but not past the "click" (i.e. not a real kickdown), there seems to be a very long delay before it downshifts. . Years ago I had an AMG Merc and if I had done the same thing in that the reaction was instant, I would have thought things would be even better now. This slow response means my confidence to engage in a maneuver is diminished. Did anyone else find this? THANKS
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| Pierre (244hp) | As far as I know, BMW NA does not officially endorse Dinan products. However, they have a working relationship. Some (not all) BMW dealers offer and sell Dinan products. If you modify your car with a Dinan product and something goes wrong, BMW will send a representative to evaluate the car. If it is determined that the problem is caused by the Dinan product, BMW will not cover the costs necessary to resolve the problem. Your warranty won't be voided, but it's the same thing, since BMW won't cover it. But your warranty will remain in effect for other non-Dinan related issues if they arise. In a perfect world, this is where Dinan steps in and covers the repair costs. they usually do, but I have read complaints on the forums about Dinan, disputing that a particular problem was not caused by them and that the customer had to go back and forth between BMW and Dinan. This is why I will modify my car at a BMW dealership that also sells and installs Dinan products, that way if there is a dispute between Dinan and BMW, the dealership is the one that does both, and the dealership will have to sort out who they get the money from. Most people are very happy with their Dinan pieces and have no problems. Dinan does a lot of R&D and knows BMWs very well. Even if I take some risks, there is at least some sort of warranty that should cover me if something goes wrong with my car. For example, if you do a Dinan re-flash and your suspension fails, BMW will cover this because the Dinan re-flash does not affect the suspension. But if your turbocharger fails, Dinan will have to intervene because the tuning gives more power to the turbos, so BMW won't pay for it..
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| spokane1 (668hp) | duuuuuuuuuuuuuuude, should not go the first 1200 miles. The car's manual says not to exceed 4,500 rpm or 100 miles per hour for the first 1,200 miles. As for the kickdown, my 2008 535 and 2011 550 pulled like a train when I pressed the kickdown. If your confidence diminishes when accelerating in a 535, then there is probably something wrong, diminished should not be the first word that comes to mind when discussing the 535.
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| lovers8 (693hp) | As for durability, I think BMW overdesigns their cars and there is room for more power. But, like any car, if you want to beat it up and drive it really hard all the time, you'll wear out the moving parts faster, whether they're modified or stock. The Dinan tune puts more stress on the engine, turbos, transmission, etc. But I'm not going to drive my car hard all the time. Boost only builds up when you accelerate or at top speed when the car tries to accelerate and wind resistance no longer allows acceleration (or going up a hill...you get the idea) , so when you are driving at half throttle maintaining a constant speed, you are barely using the turbos. The 550 is a 4.4-liter twin-turbo V8 that revs to 7,000 rpm. It only develops 400 hp. Some 4.0-liter engines can develop 400 hp without a turbo. That's not to say BMW can't do the same, they did it with the M5 and M3. What I mean is that this motor is not heavily stressed and is tuned for 450 pounds of torque. The maximum boost in this car is 9.8 psi, which is quite low for a turbo engine. I think there is room to push this car further (Dinan takes it to 14.5 psi), but there is always some risk and a bit more wear and stress on the car. there are many other factors like injectors maxing out, warming up, leaking pipes due to higher boost pressure, etc. I count on Dinan to do his job on these problems. I will be returning this car after 3 years and approximately 45,000 miles. If I drive hard, in short bursts and without heavy high power driving, I should be fine. However, I'm taking risks and will expose the car to even more stress. Can it handle it? we will have to wait and see.
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| may1991 (64hp) | Hi Delvek, My dealer said this break-in is no longer relevant because modern cars already come in break-in and told me to drive it as usual. Think about demo cars: when we test them at the dealership, do we keep the revs below a certain rpm. Anyway, if I'm wrong, I'll be happy to be corrected. Back to the gearbox. It's not that the car won't start once it starts. What happens is... let's say I'm driving in the middle lane in a higher gear and now I want to overtake. After applying light pressure to the throttle, I give it a quick nudge to the kickdown point, but not beyond. In cars I've driven before, that was enough to tell the gearbox that you wanted to do something and the box would downshift one gear very, very quickly. In this car it seems to take longer. Either way, today will be my first real drive in the car and I will be able to investigate further. By the way, why did you sell your first 550?
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| thebmwjunkiee (551hp) | Quote: Posted by BMW9 Ok Thanks everyone, I think SD is a bit too far. I will follow Vortexx's reference. I will call Mark and let him know you recommended me. How do you like Vortexx? does it really transform the car? Is the throttle response also better? Is engine smoothness maintained? The car remains virtually the same in normal driving. The smoothness of the engine is the same, the throttle response is also the same, below about 3,000 rpm. Above 3000 it really pulls. 0-60 times aren't dramatically improved, but 40 mph to 100 mph happens in a flash.
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| 250795 (377hp) | Quote: Originally posted by Delvek The car's manual says not to exceed 4,500 rpm or 100 miles per hour for the first 1,200 miles. As for the kickdown, my 2008 535 and 2011 550 pulled like a train when I pressed the kickdown. If your confidence diminishes when accelerating in a 535, then there is probably something wrong, diminished should not be the first word that comes to mind when discussing the 535. Quote: Posted at the origin by indus My dealer said that this running-in was no longer relevant. because modern cars are already coming and told me to drive them as usual. Think about demo cars: when we test them at the dealership, do we keep the revs below a certain rpm. Anyway, if I'm wrong, I'll be happy to be corrected. Back to the gearbox. It's not that the car won't start once it starts. What happens is... let's say I'm driving in the middle lane in a higher gear and now I want to overtake. After applying light pressure to the accelerator, I give it a quick boost to the kickdown point, but not beyond. In cars I've driven before, that was enough to tell the gearbox that you wanted to do something and the box would downshift one gear very, very quickly. In this car it seems to take longer. Delvek is right to run the car and the limitations are clearly stated in the owner's manual. Did your dealer advice come from a salesperson or a technician? If it was the former, they aren't really known for their technical knowledge. I was very careful when breaking in my 535d MS and it certainly didn't hurt. I find the sports car to be incredibly responsive - I didn't attempt a kick-down until I had over 3,000 miles on the car, but when I did, I can only describe the result as being instantly explosive for such a big car. The box will also shift gears as needed and very quickly, with moderate pressure on the accelerator, well before reaching the kick-down switch. Another advantage of proper break-in is that after 4.5 km the oil level is exactly where it was on delivery - on the upper notch on the dipstick..
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| 1597531 (383hp) | Update: Unable to contact Marc. I dropped my car off at Arron in Crevier on Saturday afternoon and got a loan. The car is still there. 3 days so far for one hour reflash. he said the last car they did took them 2 days because of a software problem. It must have been your Vortexx car. I'm a little frustrated because he said it would be ready in a day.
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| 111222a (841hp) | Yes, the break-in period is indicated in the manual.
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| multisync (8hp) | Yes the advice was from the seller, I guess I'm old enough to know better that I didn't actually do a full kickdown, I only pushed the pedal up to that point just before the kickdown. Maybe I just need more time to get used to the gearbox
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| emulajavi (412hp) | Quote: Posted by indus Hi guys, I've had the 535d MS for a few days now, but only a few miles. I find the gaerbox a bit strange, I actually have the auto sport option. If I'm in normal auto mode and want to overtake, etc. and I suddenly press the accelerator all the way but not past the "click" (i.e. not a real kickdown), there seems to be a very long delay before it downshifts. . Years ago I had an AMG Merc and if I had done the same thing in that the reaction was instant, I would have thought things would be even better now. This slow response means my confidence to engage in a maneuver is diminished. Did anyone else find this? Thanks Do you also experience hesitation and/or jerking when trying to accelerate from a stop or at low speeds ??
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| 200206 (830hp) | Quote: Originally posted by DuneMan Do you also experience some hesitation and/or jerking when trying to accelerate from a stop or at low speeds? Covered extensively here: http://f10.5post.com/forums/showthread.php?t=417714
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| newlove12 (98hp) | Quote: Posted by indus My dealer told me that this break-in issue is no longer relevant because modern cars are already broken in and told me to drive them as usual. Think about demo cars: when we test them at the dealership, do we keep the revs below a certain rpm. Anyway, if I'm wrong, I'll be happy to be corrected. Your dealer is wrong, tell them I said so, well not me, but the CAR! Check your ship's manual under the heading Break-in and it clearly states the agreement to new owners. The dealer will likely try to void your warranty in the future. Yes, not following break-in procedures is grounds for BMW to do so, not that they will, but they could. Factory testing (which varies by day and car) is pre-registration. No one owns it yet. The start date of your warranty and the mileage determine the break-in. As for demo cars, same thing, pre-registration, your dealer is a button, sorry. To repeat, the first 1,200 miles, no more than 4,500 rpm and no more than 100. In my first 550 I followed it and it was difficult on the highway to do it, but it's required by BMW and it is important for the performance of the car to break in. in which case I would not be happy to be corrected.
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| 1shithead (237hp) | Quote: Posted by delvek Your dealer is wrong, tell them I said so, well not me, but the CAR! Check your ship's manual under the heading Break-in and it clearly states the agreement to new owners. The dealer will likely try to void your warranty in the future. Yes, not following break-in procedures is grounds for BMW to do so, not that they will, but they could. Factory testing (which varies by day and car) is pre-registration. No one owns it yet. The start date of your warranty and the mileage determine the break-in. As for demo cars, same thing, pre-registration, your dealer is a button, sorry. To repeat, the first 1,200 miles, no more than 4,500 rpm and no more than 100. In my first 550 I followed it and it was difficult on the highway to do it, but it's required by BMW and it is important for the performance of the car to break in. would not in this case be happy to be corrected. Ok mate, point understood, I will observe the break-in period, I have now also looked at the owner's book.
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| box (556hp) | Quote: Originally posted by DuneMan Do you also experience some hesitation and/or jerking when trying to accelerate from a stop or at low speeds? No jerky buddy
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| 010394 (51hp) | Quote: Posted by indus No jerky mate hmmm...interesting. I was going to say this is a common complaint that I have already contacted my BMW dealer and asked for a solution as soon as it is available. But your problem seems a little different from the common hesitations and jerks at low speed... that many face, as we can see in a few threads..
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| 031082 (693hp) | No worries Indus, I had the same feeling when I got the car. But once the car has covered a few thousand miles and sport mode is selected for both adaptive driving and the sport automatic transmission... the pace and acceleration are breathtaking. Much faster than my e92 335d. Overtaking is effortless and without any lag. Power delivery is instantaneous. In fact, it's the closest thing to an M5. Moreover, this month, Top Gear Mag (United Kingdom) made a first test with the 535d. They called it one of the greatest engines in history.
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| 211193 (348hp) | Quote: Posted by EdwinF10 No worries Indus, I had the same feeling when I got the car. But once the car has covered a few thousand miles and sport mode is selected for both adaptive driving and the sport automatic transmission... the pace and acceleration are breathtaking. Much faster than my e92 335d. Overtaking is effortless and without any lag. Power delivery is instantaneous. In fact, it's the closest thing to an M5. Moreover, this month, Top Gear Mag (United Kingdom) made a first test with the 535d. They called him one of the greatest engines in history. Interesting what you say about selecting sport mode in AD with the toggle switch and putting the box in sport mode with the gear selector. I thought the first automatically engaged the second. Do you notice a difference? I'd try it now, but the car is washed, dried and in the garage after a gloriously sunny weekend of blasting around Loch Ness and the Black Isle. I now have over 4.5k miles on the car and I'm really opening it up - the response from the gearbox and throttle is incredible, the latter due to the virtually instantaneous reaction of the little turbo before the bigger one doesn't come into play. I've also played with sport+ and find the added degree of wheel spin really exciting when accelerating into a corner from a standing start. However, I find myself peeling off (deflating!) when the rear comes out, because I'm not sure how quickly things could get completely out of control. I would appreciate the opinions of those who might have taken it a little further and found out if there are any additional safeguards. I am also convinced that there is an additional degree of riding precision between sport and sport+, but this is very subjective and undoubtedly influenced by adrenaline! Again, any other ideas are welcome.
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| falcon5 (605hp) | Quote: Originally posted by Jon D Interesting what you say about selecting sport mode in AD with the toggle switch and putting the trans into sport mode with the gear selector. I thought the first automatically engaged the second. Do you notice a difference? I'd try it now, but the car is washed, dried and in the garage after a gloriously sunny weekend of blasting around Loch Ness and the Black Isle. I now have over 4.5k miles on the car and I'm really opening it up - the response from the gearbox and throttle is incredible, the latter due to the virtually instantaneous reaction of the little turbo before the bigger one doesn't come into play. I've also played with sport+ and find the added degree of wheel spin really exciting when accelerating into a corner from a standing start. However, I find myself peeling off (deflating!) when the rear comes out, because I'm not sure how quickly things could get completely out of control. I would appreciate the opinions of those who might have taken it a little further and found out if there are any additional safeguards. I am also convinced that there is an additional degree of riding precision between sport and sport+, but this is very subjective and undoubtedly influenced by adrenaline! Again, any other ideas are welcome. I haven't noticed any extra steering stiffness in sport+, but I don't have adaptive driving, these components can contribute to a different steering feel, but then is there an extra level of progression from sport to sport+ for the adaptive driving suspension. components (shock absorber + ARB) in suspension. is already specific to “sport”? I drove for several months with sport steering each time, the last few days I kept it in normal mode, and I find that I really like it! Maybe it's all the low speed cornering around town...the steering requires less force (but more distance)...but I specifically remember the "normal" steering feeling loose at high speeds straight RIGHT. So maybe now my default steering will be "normal", only sport on the highway, and sport+ (+transmission) when hot and sporty driving. I find the sliding to be extremely progressive and controlled, in the rain I'm very confident in the control...but that may not mean anything to you as our tire (+engine) specs may differ totally...
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| 30101990 (82hp) | Quote: Posted by indus Hi guys, I've had the 535d MS for a few days now, but only a few miles. I find the gaerbox a bit strange, I actually have the auto sport option. If I'm in normal auto mode and want to overtake, etc. and I suddenly press the accelerator all the way but not past the "click" (i.e. not a real kickdown), there seems to be a very long delay before it downshifts. . Years ago I had an AMG Merc and if I had done the same thing in that the reaction was instant, I would have thought things would be even better now. This slow response means my confidence to engage in a maneuver is diminished. Did anyone else find this? Thank you Indus, have you selected sport mode in adaptive driving? There is a huge difference in responsiveness (compared to normal). I agree, throttle response is normally slow, engine doesn't downshift enough to reach the sweet spot for overtaking..
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| 29101979 (681hp) | Just put the engine on for a few miles and keep it running. I've driven a newer 530d and never had any real issues with rideability, even in D. I've also driven the same combination in a 530d with decent mileage (over 5km), and it was even better, lots of thrust, and the box was where you wanted it, D was good for normal overtaking and the box responded as I expected, for quick acceleration. I can only imagine that a well-run 535d will be superb, even from modest revs. HighlandPete
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| pimp24 (200hp) | Thanks guys. Just to clarify things, I don't have an adaptive drive, I have a sport auto transmission and IAS. My drive across town this weekend revealed the same problem, the automatic transmission seems lethargic. In other words, I give the accelerator a quick stab and expect it to downshift one gear, but it doesn't. Or I press the throttle hard just to the kickdown point (not really!) and there is what seems like a huge delay before the car actually shifts into gear. It makes me feel really disconnected from the car. It's with the sport gearbox in normal mode, I played quickly with the gearbox in sport mode and it's much better but then it lets the car go too high in each gear, which makes traveling uncomfortable and uneconomical for driving in urban situations. . The only solution I can think of is that the next time I need a quick dose of power, just give two taps of the left Flappy paddle to quickly be in the power zone..
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| blackmore (866hp) | Quote: Originally posted by indus Thanks guys. Just to clarify things, I don't have an adaptive drive, I have a sport auto transmission and IAS. My drive across town this weekend revealed the same problem, the automatic transmission seems lethargic. In other words, I give the accelerator a quick stab and expect it to downshift one gear, but it doesn't. Or I press the throttle hard just to the kickdown point (not really!) and there is what seems like a huge delay before the car actually shifts into gear. It makes me feel really disconnected from the car. It's with the sport gearbox in normal mode, I played quickly with the gearbox in sport mode and it's much better but then it lets the car go too high in each gear, which makes traveling uncomfortable and uneconomical for driving in urban situations. . The only solution I can think of is next time I need a quick dose of power to just give the left Flappy Paddle two strokes so I'm in the power zone quickly. From your original post I'm guessing the car is practically new and you have well under 1,200 miles on the odometer and if that's the case you really shouldn't use it at full throttle until that the car is properly broken in. . With 4,500 on my 535d, I've only just really opened it up and couldn't wish for a more responsive transmission - it was well worth the wait. I think you're waiting too much at this point and if you accelerate almost to the kick-down point you're doing damage in the long run - this is just my opinion, but I think patience will pay off in the end. Of course, it's always possible that you have a problem with the car, but I suggest you say nothing about your enthusiasm for the throttle to the dealer, until you are well beyond the travel clearly indicated by the manufacturer . in the recommendations. You might find yourself in a warranty battle.
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| cendrillon (789hp) | Quote: Originally posted by Jon D Interesting what you say about selecting sport mode in AD with the toggle switch and putting the trans into sport mode with the gear selector. I thought the first automatically engaged the second. Do you notice a difference? I think so. Because otherwise the sport mode of the gear selectors would only be useful for engaging the paddles (when the car is also equipped with AD). I felt like there was a difference. But hey, maybe I'm wrong, can you try? I would appreciate it.
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| asphalt (2hp) | Quote: Originally posted by EdwinF10 I think so. Because otherwise the sport mode of the gear selectors would only be useful for engaging the paddles (when the car is also equipped with AD). I felt like there was a difference. But hey, maybe I'm wrong, can you try? I would appreciate it. As I understand it, selecting sport with the gear selector only affects the transmission by delaying gear changes, while sport mode on the toggle switch does the same thing by changing the response of the steering and l accelerator and, on cars with AD/VDC, roll bars and active shock absorbers. Also. However, I will definitely give it a try next time I go out for a decent run and will let you know..
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| Tondtar (970hp) | Quote: Originally posted by Jon D Based on your original post I'm guessing the car is practically new and you have well under 1,200 miles on the odometer and if that's the case you really shouldn't Do not use it at full throttle until the car is properly broken in. With 4,500 on my 535d, I've only just really opened it up and couldn't wish for a more responsive transmission - it was well worth the wait. I think you're waiting too much at this point and if you accelerate almost to the kick-down point you're doing damage in the long run - this is just my opinion, but I think patience will pay off in the end. Of course, it's always possible that you have a problem with the car, but I suggest you say nothing about your enthusiasm for the throttle to the dealer, until you are well beyond the travel clearly indicated by the manufacturer . in the recommendations. You could find yourself in a warranty battle. Thanks John, I completely understand your point of view, but I don't understand why you felt the need to be gentle with the engine with 4,500 miles on the clock.!
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| master8 (703hp) | Hi guys, I've had the 535d MS for a few days now but only a few miles. I find the gaerbox a bit strange, I actually have the auto sport option. If I'm in normal auto mode and want to overtake, etc. and I suddenly press the accelerator all the way but not past the "click" (i.e. not a real kickdown), there seems to be a very long delay before it downshifts. . Years ago I had an AMG Merc and if I had done the same thing in that the reaction was instant, I would have thought things would be even better now. This slow response means my confidence to engage in a maneuver is diminished. Did anyone else find this? THANKS
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| 201289 (940hp) | duuuuuuuuuuuuuuude, should not go the first 1200 miles. The car's manual says not to exceed 4,500 rpm or 100 miles per hour for the first 1,200 miles. As for the kickdown, my 2008 535 and 2011 550 pulled like a train when I pressed the kickdown. If your confidence diminishes when accelerating in a 535, then there is probably something wrong, diminished should not be the first word that comes to mind when discussing the 535.
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| bigdog01 (362hp) | Hi Delvek, My dealer said this break-in is no longer relevant because modern cars already come in break-in and told me to drive it as usual. Think about demo cars: when we test them at the dealership, do we keep the revs below a certain rpm. Anyway, if I'm wrong, I'll be happy to be corrected. Back to the gearbox. It's not that the car won't start once it starts. What happens is... let's say I'm driving in the middle lane in a higher gear and now I want to overtake. After applying light pressure to the accelerator, I give it a quick boost to the kickdown point, but not beyond. In cars I've driven before, that was enough to tell the gearbox that you wanted to do something and the box would downshift one gear very, very quickly. In this car it seems to take longer. Either way, today will be my first real drive in the car and I will be able to investigate further. By the way, why did you sell your first 550?
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| trent123 (147hp) | Quote: Originally posted by Delvek The car's manual says not to exceed 4,500 rpm or 100 miles per hour for the first 1,200 miles. As for the kickdown, my 2008 535 and 2011 550 pulled like a train when I pressed the kickdown. If your confidence diminishes when accelerating in a 535, then there is probably something wrong, diminished should not be the first word that comes to mind when discussing the 535. Quote: Posted at the origin by indus My dealer said that this running-in was no longer relevant. because modern cars are already coming and told me to drive them as usual. Think about demo cars: when we test them at the dealership, do we keep the revs below a certain rpm. Anyway, if I'm wrong, I'll be happy to be corrected. Back to the gearbox. It's not that the car won't start once it starts. What happens is... let's say I'm driving in the middle lane in a higher gear and now I want to overtake. After applying light pressure to the throttle, I give it a quick nudge to the kickdown point, but not beyond. In cars I've driven before, that was enough to tell the gearbox that you wanted to do something and the box would downshift one gear very, very quickly. In this car it seems to take longer. Delvek is right to run the car and the limitations are clearly stated in the owner's manual. Did your dealer advice come from a salesperson or a technician? If it was the former, they aren't really known for their technical knowledge. I was very careful when breaking in my 535d MS and it certainly didn't hurt. I find the sports car to be incredibly responsive - I didn't attempt a kick-down until I had put over 3,000 miles on the car, but when I did, I can only describe the result as being instantly explosive for such a big car. The box will also shift gears as needed and very quickly, with moderate pressure on the accelerator, well before reaching the kick-down switch. Another advantage of proper break-in is that after 4.5 km the oil level is exactly where it was on delivery - on the upper notch on the dipstick..
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| 05081981 (703hp) | Yes, the break-in period is indicated in the manual.
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| bjkim (518hp) | Yes the advice was from the seller, I guess I'm old enough to know better that I didn't actually do a full kickdown, I only pushed the pedal up to that point just before the kickdown. Maybe I just need more time to get used to the gearbox
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| milan4ever (291hp) | Quote: Posted by indus Hi guys, I've had the 535d MS for a few days now, but only a few miles. I find the gaerbox a bit strange, I actually have the auto sport option. If I'm in normal auto mode and want to overtake, etc. and I suddenly press the accelerator all the way but not past the "click" (i.e. not a real kickdown), there seems to be a very long delay before it downshifts. . Years ago I had an AMG Merc and if I had done the same thing in that the reaction was instant, I would have thought things would be even better now. This slow response means my confidence to engage in a maneuver is diminished. Did anyone else find this? Thanks Do you also experience hesitation and/or jerking when trying to accelerate from a stop or at low speeds ??
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| maggie6 (667hp) | Quote: Originally posted by DuneMan Do you also experience some hesitation and/or jerking when trying to accelerate from a stop or at low speeds? Covered extensively here: http://f10.5post.com/forums/showthread.php?t=417714
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| Bandini3 (844hp) | Quote: Posted by indus My dealer told me that this break-in issue is no longer relevant because modern cars are already broken in and told me to drive them as usual. Think about demo cars: when we test them at the dealership, do we keep the revs below a certain rpm. Anyway, if I'm wrong, I'll be happy to be corrected. Your dealer is wrong, tell them I said so, well not me, but the CAR! Check your ship's manual under the heading Break-in and it clearly states the agreement to new owners. The dealer will likely try to void your warranty in the future. Yes, not following break-in procedures is grounds for BMW to do so, not that they will, but they could. Factory testing (which varies by day and car) is pre-registration. No one owns it yet. The start date of your warranty and the mileage determine the break-in. As for demo cars, same thing, pre-registration, your dealer is a button, sorry. To repeat, the first 1,200 miles, no more than 4,500 rpm and no more than 100. In my first 550 I followed it and it was difficult on the highway to do it, but it's required by BMW and it is important for the performance of the car to break in. in which case I would not be happy to be corrected.
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| 170578 (938hp) | Quote: Posted by delvek Your dealer is wrong, tell them I said so, well not me, but the CAR! Check your ship's manual under the heading Break-in and it clearly states the agreement to new owners. The dealer will likely try to void your warranty in the future. Yes, not following break-in procedures is grounds for BMW to do so, not that they will, but they could. Factory testing (which varies by day and car) is pre-registration. No one owns it yet. The start date of your warranty and the mileage determine the break-in. As for demo cars, same thing, pre-registration, your dealer is a button, sorry. To repeat, the first 1,200 miles, no more than 4,500 rpm and no more than 100. In my first 550 I followed it and it was difficult on the highway to do it, but it's required by BMW and it is important for the performance of the car to break in. would not in this case be happy to be corrected. Ok mate, point understood, I will observe the break-in period, I have now also looked at the owner's book.
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| right1 (504hp) | Quote: Originally posted by DuneMan Do you also experience some hesitation and/or jerking when trying to accelerate from a stop or at low speeds? No jerky buddy
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| renee15 (561hp) | Quote: Posted by indus No jerky mate hmmm...interesting. I was going to say this is a common complaint that I have already contacted my BMW dealer and asked for a solution as soon as it is available. But your problem seems a little different from the common hesitations and jerks at low speed... that many face, as we can see in a few threads..
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| 123abc. (983hp) | No worries Indus, I had the same feeling when I got the car. But once the car has covered a few thousand miles and sport mode is selected for both adaptive driving and the sport automatic transmission... the pace and acceleration are breathtaking. Much faster than my e92 335d. Overtaking is effortless and without any lag. Power delivery is instantaneous. In fact, it's the closest thing to an M5. Moreover, this month, Top Gear Mag (United Kingdom) made a first test with the 535d. They called it one of the greatest engines in history.
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| jazz11 (609hp) | Quote: Posted by EdwinF10 No worries Indus, I had the same feeling when I got the car. But once the car has covered a few thousand miles and sport mode is selected for both adaptive driving and the sport automatic transmission... the pace and acceleration are breathtaking. Much faster than my e92 335d. Overtaking is effortless and without any lag. Power delivery is instantaneous. In fact, it's the closest thing to an M5. Moreover, this month, Top Gear Mag (United Kingdom) made a first test with the 535d. They called him one of the greatest engines in history. Interesting what you say about selecting sport mode in AD with the toggle switch and putting the box in sport mode with the gear selector. I thought the first automatically engaged the second. Do you notice a difference? I'd try it now, but the car is washed, dried and in the garage after a gloriously sunny weekend of blasting around Loch Ness and the Black Isle. I now have over 4.5k miles on the car and I'm really opening it up - the response from the gearbox and throttle is incredible, the latter due to the virtually instantaneous reaction of the little turbo before the bigger one doesn't come into play. I've also played with sport+ and find the added degree of wheel spin really exciting when accelerating into a corner from a standing start. However, I find myself peeling off (deflating!) when the rear comes out, because I'm not sure how quickly things could get completely out of control. I would appreciate the opinions of those who might have taken it a little further and found out if there are any additional safeguards. I am also convinced that there is an additional degree of riding precision between sport and sport+, but this is very subjective and undoubtedly influenced by adrenaline! Again, any other ideas are welcome.
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| 22111976 (71hp) | Quote: Originally posted by Jon D Interesting what you say about selecting sport mode in AD with the toggle switch and putting the trans into sport mode with the gear selector. I thought the first automatically engaged the second. Do you notice a difference? I'd try it now, but the car is washed, dried and in the garage after a gloriously sunny weekend of blasting around Loch Ness and the Black Isle. I now have over 4.5k miles on the car and I'm really opening it up - the response from the gearbox and throttle is incredible, the latter due to the virtually instantaneous reaction of the little turbo before the bigger one doesn't come into play. I've also played with sport+ and find the added degree of wheel spin really exciting when accelerating into a corner from a standing start. However, I find myself peeling off (deflating!) when the rear comes out, because I'm not sure how quickly things could get completely out of control. I would appreciate the opinions of those who might have taken it a little further and found out if there are any additional safeguards. I am also convinced that there is an additional degree of riding precision between sport and sport+, but this is very subjective and undoubtedly influenced by adrenaline! Again, any other ideas are welcome. I haven't noticed any extra steering stiffness in sport+, but I don't have adaptive driving, these components can contribute to a different steering feel, but then is there an extra level of progression from sport to sport+ for the adaptive driving suspension. components (shock absorber + ARB) in suspension. is already specific to “sport”? I drove for several months with sport steering each time, the last few days I kept it in normal mode, and I find that I really like it! Maybe it's all the low speed cornering around town...the steering requires less force (but more distance)...but I specifically remember the "normal" steering feeling loose at high speeds straight RIGHT. So maybe now my default steering will be “normal”, only sport on the highway, and sport+ (+transmission) when hot and sporty driving. I find the sliding to be extremely progressive and controlled, in the rain I'm very confident in the control...but that may not mean anything to you as our tire (+engine) specs may differ totally...
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| pogiako1 (18hp) | Quote: Posted by indus Hi guys, I've had the 535d MS for a few days now, but only a few miles. I find the gaerbox a bit strange, I actually have the auto sport option. If I'm in normal auto mode and want to overtake, etc. and I suddenly press the accelerator all the way but not past the "click" (i.e. not a real kickdown), there seems to be a very long delay before it downshifts. . Years ago I had an AMG Merc and if I had done the same thing in that the reaction was instant, I would have thought things would be even better now. This slow response means my confidence to engage in a maneuver is diminished. Did anyone else find this? Thank you Indus, have you selected sport mode in adaptive driving? There is a huge difference in responsiveness (compared to normal). I agree, throttle response is normally slow, engine doesn't downshift enough to reach the sweet spot for overtaking..
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| 10091980 (182hp) | Just put the engine on for a few miles and keep it running. I've driven a newer 530d and never had any real issues with rideability, even in D. I've also driven the same combination in a 530d with decent mileage (over 5km), and it was even better, lots of thrust, and the box was where you wanted it, D was good for normal overtaking and the box responded as I expected, for quick acceleration. I can only imagine that a well-run 535d will be superb, even from modest revs. HighlandPete
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| stick (872hp) | Thanks guys. Just to clarify things, I don't have an adaptive drive, I have a sport auto transmission and IAS. My drive across town this weekend revealed the same problem, the automatic transmission seems lethargic. In other words, I give the accelerator a quick stab and expect it to downshift one gear, but it doesn't. Or I press the throttle hard just to the kickdown point (not really!) and there is what seems like a huge delay before the car actually shifts into gear. It makes me feel really disconnected from the car. It's with the sport gearbox in normal mode, I played quickly with the gearbox in sport mode and it's much better but then it lets the car go too high in each gear, which makes traveling uncomfortable and uneconomical for driving in urban situations. . The only solution I can think of is that the next time I need a quick dose of power, just give two taps of the left Flappy paddle to quickly be in the power zone..
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| outreach (847hp) | Quote: Originally posted by indus Thanks guys. Just to clarify things, I don't have an adaptive drive, I have a sport auto transmission and IAS. My drive across town this weekend revealed the same problem, the automatic transmission seems lethargic. In other words, I give the accelerator a quick stab and expect it to downshift one gear, but it doesn't. Or I press the throttle hard just to the kickdown point (not really!) and there is what seems like a huge delay before the car actually shifts into gear. It makes me feel really disconnected from the car. It's with the sport transmission in normal mode, I played quickly with the transmission in sport mode and it's much better but then it lets the car go too high in each gear, which makes traveling uncomfortable and uneconomical for driving in urban situations. . The only solution I can think of is next time I need a quick dose of power to just give the left Flappy Paddle two strokes so I'm in the power zone quickly. From your original post I'm guessing the car is practically new and you have well under 1,200 miles on the odometer and if that's the case you really shouldn't use it at full throttle until that the car is properly broken in. . With 4,500 on my 535d, I've only just really opened it up and couldn't wish for a more responsive transmission - it was well worth the wait. I think you're waiting too much at this point and if you accelerate almost to the kick-down point you're doing damage in the long run - this is just my opinion, but I think patience will pay off in the end. Of course, it's always possible that you have a problem with the car, but I suggest you say nothing about your enthusiasm for the throttle to the dealer, until you are well beyond the travel clearly indicated by the manufacturer . in the recommendations. You might find yourself in a warranty battle.
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| fynjybj (525hp) | Quote: Originally posted by Jon D Interesting what you say about selecting sport mode in AD with the toggle switch and putting the trans into sport mode with the gear selector. I thought the first automatically engaged the second. Do you notice a difference? I think so. Because otherwise the sport mode of the gear selectors would only be useful for engaging the paddles (when the car is also equipped with AD). I felt like there was a difference. But hey, maybe I'm wrong, can you try? I would appreciate it.
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| 198113 (996hp) | Quote: Originally posted by EdwinF10 I think so. Because otherwise the sport mode of the gear selectors would only be useful for engaging the paddles (when the car is also equipped with AD). I felt like there was a difference. But hey, maybe I'm wrong, can you try? I would appreciate it. As I understand it, selecting sport with the gear selector only affects the transmission by delaying gear changes, while sport mode on the toggle switch does the same thing by changing the response of the steering and l accelerator and, on cars with AD/VDC, roll bars and active shock absorbers. Also. However, I will definitely give it a try next time I go out for a decent run and will let you know..
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| trfortin69 (822hp) | Quote: Originally posted by Jon D Based on your original post I'm guessing the car is practically new and you have well under 1,200 miles on the odometer and if that's the case you really shouldn't Do not use it at full throttle until the car is properly broken in. With 4,500 on my 535d, I've only just really opened it up and couldn't wish for a more responsive transmission - it was well worth the wait. I think you're waiting too much at this point and if you accelerate almost to the kick-down point you're doing damage in the long run - this is just my opinion, but I think patience will pay off in the end. Of course, it's always possible that you have a problem with the car, but I suggest you say nothing about your enthusiasm for the throttle to the dealer, until you are well beyond the travel clearly indicated by the manufacturer . in the recommendations. You could find yourself in a warranty battle. Thanks John, I completely understand your point of view, but I don't understand why you felt the need to be gentle with the engine with 4,500 miles on the clock.!
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| mommy10 (762hp) | here is an article showing the supremacy of the 5 series compared to its rivals https://www.press.bmwgroup.com/press...tem=node__2234
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| loves123 (765hp) | here is an article showing the supremacy of the 5 series compared to its rivals https://www.press.bmwgroup.com/press...tem=node__2234
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| barbos (278hp) | Quote: Originally posted by indus Thanks John, I completely understand your point of view, but I don't understand why you felt the need to be gentle with the engine with 4,500 miles on the clock! I don't think you completely agree with me here, if you reread my post you will see that I am really opening up now and no longer feel the need to take it slow. Indeed, I adopted a gradual break-in procedure, namely: staying well below 3,500 rpm for the first 1,200 miles, then gradually increasing the revs, while varying the engine speed as much as possible. and road speed throughout the process. This has, in large part, resulted in an engine that is sublimely smooth, immensely powerful and extremely responsive. I think I also mentioned that there was no noticeable oil consumption.!
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| alcahest (943hp) | also went through the break-in process (now at 1,400 miles) and the engine is only getting better. The throttle response is 100 times better than previous generation BMW automotive boxes and far exceeded my expectations. I mostly drive like a big wimp, but the few times I've ventured into Sport mode things get very frantic and that's coming from a modest 530d that can't compete with the 535d but is fine for me and for me at less seems to pull like a train and I have all the real speed I need for my driving style.
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| 17071995 (158hp) | Quote: Originally posted by NorthernMonkey also went through the break-in process (now at 1,400 miles) and the engine is only getting better. The throttle response is 100 times better than previous generation BMW automotive boxes and far exceeded my expectations. I mostly drive like a big wimp, but the few times I've ventured into Sport mode, things get very frantic and that's coming from a modest 530d that can't compete with the 535d but suits me well and for me at less seems to pull like a train and has all the real speed I need for my driving style. These are both great engines and your 530d certainly wouldn't be far behind my 535d. The main reasons I opted for the latter are the significantly reduced turbo lag, immense mid-range pull, and slightly smoother operation. Glad to hear you like it.
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| linus (754hp) | Thanks guys, all points have been taken into account. This is my first new car in over a decade, it seems the engine and gearbox are improving after a break-in period. I just have to be patient and observe the break-in procedure.!
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| 1number (231hp) | Quote: Originally posted by indus Thanks John, I completely understand your point of view, but I don't understand why you felt the need to be gentle with the engine with 4,500 miles on the clock! I don't think you completely agree with me here, if you reread my post you will see that I am really opening up now and no longer feel the need to take it slow. Indeed, I adopted a gradual break-in procedure, namely: staying well below 3,500 rpm for the first 1,200 miles, then gradually increasing the revs, while varying the engine speed as much as possible. and road speed throughout the process. This has, in large part, resulted in an engine that is sublimely smooth, immensely powerful and extremely responsive. I think I also mentioned that there was no noticeable oil consumption.!
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| yx12345678 (53hp) | Also went through the break-in process (now at 1,400 miles) and the engine is only getting better. The throttle response is 100 times better than previous generation BMW automotive boxes and far exceeded my expectations. I mostly drive like a big wimp, but the few times I've ventured into Sport mode, things get very frantic and that's coming from a modest 530d that can't compete with the 535d but suits me well and for me at less seems to pull like a train and I have all the real speed I need for my driving style.
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| iiiii (169hp) | Quote: Originally posted by NorthernMonkey also went through the break-in process (now at 1,400 miles) and the engine is only getting better. The throttle response is 100 times better than previous generation BMW automotive boxes and far exceeded my expectations. I mostly drive like a big wimp, but the few times I've ventured into Sport mode things get very frantic and that's coming from a modest 530d that can't compete with the 535d but is fine for me and for me at less seems to pull like a train and has all the real speed I need for my driving style. These are both great engines and your 530d certainly wouldn't be far behind my 535d. The main reasons I opted for the latter are the significantly reduced turbo lag, immense mid-range pull, and slightly smoother operation. Glad to hear you like it.
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| inuyasha3 (652hp) | Thanks guys, all points have been taken into account. This is my first new car in over a decade, it seems the engine and gearbox are improving after a break-in period. I just have to be patient and observe the break-in procedure.!
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| cellphone3 (700hp) | I have the same setup, 18 on continentals and have had similar issues with the steering on the highway.....It seems incredibly sensitive to camber so you have to apply more pressure on the left hand to counteract the British motorways. It almost feels like tracking is off, but turn it down and it looks fine. I get about 17 winter wheels, so it will be interesting to see if the steering is impacted when changing direction.... Just to add, this is not a major issue, and is only noticeable because the rest of the car is so luxurious and comfortable... Perfectly quiet, comfort seats, active cruise, etc, and then the steering is not perfect...
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| 19791980 (999hp) | Quote: Originally posted by eaglesrest I have the same setup, 18 on continentals and have had similar issues with the steering on highways.....It seems incredibly camber sensitive so you need to apply more pressure on the left hand to counter British motorways. . It almost feels like tracking is off, but turn it down and it looks fine. I'm getting some 17 winter wheels so it will be interesting to see if the steering is impacted when changing.... ..and then steering that isn't perfect... If your 'similar problem' is around 70 - 80 mph, so that makes at least 4 UK users on the forum saying the same thing in the last few days. Be specific, more defined than the “less than specific” direction we have heard about and experienced. Definitely interested in changing winter tires... will it be an RFT, or non-RFT game? HighlandPete
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| 03051981 (938hp) | After driving the loaner 523 M Sport (19th) for a few days, I can say the difference is like night and day... it's a pleasure to drive compared to mine. I have an open-ended loan, so I'm not sure how long it will take to sort mine out, but rest assured, I'll post here when I get it back. N16E
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| catdog3 (402hp) | Quote: Originally posted by N16E After driving the 523 M Sport loaner (the 19th) for a few days, I can say the difference is like night and day...it's a pleasure to drive compared to mine. I have an open-ended loan, so I'm not sure how long it will take to sort mine out, but rest assured, I'll post here when I get it back. N16E Hello! Was the 523 M sport equipped with M sport suspension? I am buying a 535D F10 M sport and am considering purchasing an M sport suspension? Any insight into the ride quality and sportiness of the ride would be much appreciated! THANKS!
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| server1 (321hp) | Hi exoprotoss, Sorry, as it's a loan I don't know. You can choose between normal, sport and sport plus, and choose chassis and drivetrain combinations from memory. What I can say is that it's definitely more refined than the E60 M Sport I had. N16E
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| mom&dad (679hp) | Thank you very much for your insights and feedback on this important issue with the F10. Does your lender have a comfort framework? Please ask the dealer to enter the VIN into their software and it will display the car's options. Please post this list of options here, which will help us resolve this issue..
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| 29081982 (884hp) | Quote: Originally posted by N16E After driving the 523 M Sport loaner (the 19th) for a few days, I can say the difference is like night and day...it's a pleasure to drive compared to mine. I have an open-ended loan, so I'm not sure how long it will take to sort mine out, but rest assured, I'll post here when I get it back. N16E From the posts I feel the steering is worse on 18 wheelers. This is my own experience, both 19 wheeler cars were much better. One had the sports car, the steering was superb in sport mode, the other with Adaptive Drive and standard car was good, but wasn't as tight in sport as the one with sports car. Both 18-wheelers, the 530d and 520d touring, had steering that needed to be corrected and/or was vague around the middle position. To me this wheel size issue (if we can prove it) is not a new problem. The E90/1 cars experienced similar problems, at least initially. 17 wheels seemed to have more problems with poor straight line precision and blurring than using 18 axles. I still believe the wheels/tires are part of the problem. HighlandPete
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| 14071981 (544hp) | This is my first post here, as I've been browsing these forums for a while. I have been driving an E60 2008 535 for almost 3 years, and I am reaching the end of the lease. I'm about to take out a new lease on the 2011 5 Series F10. Before that I had a 2005 545 for 3 years. I can't decide between the 535 and the 550. Now, before anyone starts thinking, oh, yet another 535 vs 550 thread, I'd like to perhaps give a slightly different perspective to this discussion, and perhaps include an amalgamation of some of the better points that are often omitted in similar previous discussions. Back when I rented the 545, the decision between the 530 and 545 was pretty simple. There was no turbo and the power/torque difference between the two was considerable. I was very happy with the 545 initially, even though it was less reliable (service issues) than the 530. However, my first concern arose when I got a 530 on loan. I noticed almost immediately that the 530, with its reduced front weight, was much more maneuverable than the 545. I found the handling to be much better across the board. This stuck with me, and when the time came to re-lease in 2008, the combination of this and the small difference in HP/torque (now 535 turbo 6 vs. 550 NA 8) made purchasing the 535 a no-brainer . I never looked back and was extremely happy. The turbo 6 has incredible torque, and I haven't once thought about the previous 550. Enter the 2011 5 Series and the decision becomes more interesting. The overall weight of the car has increased, while the new turbo 6, although offering better low-end torque, is fundamentally unchanged. There is now a big difference in power/torque between the two engines, with very different power-to-weight ratios. As such, I'm in a dilemma. While the handling issue discussed above is still very important to me, has the equation changed enough to consider the 550? Here are the issues I'm struggling with: 1) Handling is very important to me, at least as important as straight-line acceleration, and the weight distribution on the 550 is still not as close to 50-50 than on the 535. this negatively affects handling, with the 550 feeling nose heavy? This is what I noticed in 2005. This comparison almost always emphasizes times 0-60 and seems to downplay manipulation. 2) Conversely, with the increase in weight, does the 535 seem slower, despite the low-end torque? I don't want to lose the exceptional acceleration and passing power of my current 535. 3) Is the 550 less reliable than the 535? This was true in 2005, as the statistics confirm. Is it better to stick to BMW's core competency: the inline 6-cylinder? 4) Does the F10 550 stop better than the 535? In 2005, the brakes on the 545 were larger than the 530, but were the same on the 535 and 550. Even today, the brakes are larger on the 550. I understand the reasoning, given the added weight of the 550. Brake size is almost never mentioned in this discussion, or elsewhere, however, a BMW's stopping power is an understated feature of the brand. This defies physics, IMHO. I'm sure the brakes are adequate on the 535, but are they supreme on the 550? Is it noticeable? 5) Is it worth taking a handling hit to have M5-like power, increasing the fun factor to the point that the handling difference, if it exists, becomes less significant? Please note that I didn't mention the cost differences between the two because I wanted people to think 550..
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| 18031989 (613hp) | Quote: Originally posted by pharding Thank you very much for your insights and feedback on this important issue with the F10. Does your lender have a comfort framework? Please ask the dealer to enter the VIN into their software and it will display the car's options. Please post this list of options here, which will help us resolve this issue. M sports in the UK will generally be simple passive suspension (OEM fit in the UK). The normal to sport+ settings comment indicates that the loaned system is a passive system, therefore no Adaptive Drive. HighlandPete
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| gupe (553hp) | I traded an 08 535 for an 11 550. 1. The 550 feels 10 times more competent at high speeds than the 535. 2. The 550 would eat the 535 for breakfast when it came to speed comparisons and would always look for more bacon. 3. What affected reliability was that the I6s were plagued with HPFP issues (among other things), I don't know of any hard data on the 550's engine reliability. Look, when you get in a tech car advanced like this, you're going to have problems, that's part of the ball game. If you want simple, get a Honda or something. 4. I don't have precise stats, but I braked hard from 120 mph+ for an exit ramp and it felt solid and concise. 5. What is this impact on the management of the 550? I don't know of such a scenario, have you driven one? There is a real cost difference between the 535 and the 550. From upfront costs to regular recovery costs such as fuel and insurance. For me it was never a factor, I accepted it as part of it. The F10 550 is an incredible car, never to be confused with another incredible car in its own right, the F10 535. To summarize as I did when I made the choice to go for a 550 over the 535 (which I was originally buying)...you get more of everything with the 550 but you have to pay more, if more is good do it.
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| komnatnyy88 (204hp) | I have a 528 on 18 inch run flats. The management is complete rubbish. No real feel of the road and unless the road is completely flat it wanders from left to right. It's been returned to the dealer twice for an update and it's gotten a little better. Regardless, it is very sensitive to road conditions. I will switch to 19 or 20 inch rims without run flat tires directly after winter. /Christian
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| 1lovehim (76hp) | I came from two very powerful cars before buying my 535xi M-sport a week ago. I had a 2008 CL600 then a 2011 Cayenne S which I traded in for the 535xi M-sport. At first I was afraid of the loss of power and torque. But I have to tell you that the 535 packs a punch for its size. I wanted to get something more “reasonable” in terms of gas mileage without too much power loss and I think the 535 delivers. I have all the tech packages in my 535xi M-sport and I'm very happy with it. I'm also in New Jersey. I don't think you would have any problems with either engine. Good luck with your choice.
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| islam123 (630hp) | Quote: Originally posted by HighlandPete If your "similar problem" is between 70-80 mph, that makes at least 4 UK users on the forum saying the same thing in the last few days. Be specific, more defined than the “less than specific” direction we have heard about and experienced. Definitely interested in changing winter tires... will it be an RFT, or non-RFT game? HighlandPete I did a drive from Leeds to Hull (65 mph) and from Hull to Leeds (75 mph). I didn't notice it at the time, but looking back, the steering seemed to require more counterforce on the return trip. What I've noticed since then is that 90% of the time there is no attraction. It's going straight. Then, for no apparent reason, it will start turning right, even when approaching roundabouts. It's like it hits some sort of camber and the steering is exposed. If it was just me driving the car I'd get non-RFTs and a flat tire repair kit, but with the wife and kids using it frequently I'll stick with the RFTs for tires winter. That's assuming BMW ever has any in stock. PS MPG on the trip was 52, actual word 51mpg after a brim test. It has since dropped to 43 mpg in purely city driving..
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| schranz (207hp) | There are also rumors of HPFP issues on the N55 engine. When it comes to reliability I would choose the 550. Is the 535d available for you ??
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| theshit (896hp) | On the 17 inch runflats the steering is the same as on the non-RF 19s.. the car "wanders" slightly at times when the road is uneven or sloping.. but nothing that I would complain about. My cursory guess is that this is a function of the steering's very low center return force, which would be a setting of this particular car that differs from previous BMWs (a guess). If the push on the steering is stronger, the car will go straight (minus any actual alignment issues).) ... ?
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| steve13 (758hp) | Quote: Posted by GGPlena Is the 535d available for you? This is what I'm waiting for. I'm struggling with the same decision and my conclusion is that I want the 535d - hoping it comes to the US in the next few months..
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| appleseed1 (913hp) | But I suspect this particular steering feel is deliberate to make the f10's ride more luxurious than sporty... (without the basic suspension setup, which differs at the front from the e60 by adopting the stock setup 7 (based on diagrams at Realoem).))
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| hunter8 (734hp) | I have a 535 iX M Sport and would have opted for the 550 if it had been within my budget constraints. You simply get more car for your money. Either way, I'm sure you'll enjoy.
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| claudiu1981 (856hp) | Quote: Posted by HighlandPete From the posts I feel the steering is worse on 18 wheelers. This is my own experience, both 19 wheeler cars were much better. One had the sports car, the steering was superb in sport mode, the other with Adaptive Drive and standard car was good, but wasn't as tight in sport as the one with sports car. Both 18-wheelers, the 530d and 520d touring, had steering that needed to be corrected and/or was vague around the middle position. To me this wheel size issue (if we can prove it) is not a new problem. The E90/1 cars experienced similar problems, at least initially. 17 wheels seemed to have more problems with poor straight line precision and blurring than using 18 axles. I still believe the wheels/tires are part of the problem. HighlandPete I disagree, I had a 2008 E92 335i with sport and had all kinds of traction and steering issues, even had new tires and a LOT of alignment. I just got a 2010 328i E90 Sports and it's night and day. The 328i tracks perfectly straight and without traction. the 335i had 18 and the 328i had 17.
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| lovie1 (832hp) | Both being turbo, one single and one twin, 3.0L vs 4.4L, +~120kg front weight. I think it comes down to the question of how much power would satisfy you, given that it comes at the "detriment" of weight. before.. Solution: Launch both cars on the test drive! forget what the seller thinks
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| dungeon (24hp) | In my opinion, some of these management complaints are flaws and quality control is weak. If I remember correctly, Jon also posted that the F10 wanders (right and/or left I think) going straight. This is definitely not acceptable.
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| 110693 (614hp) | You can look back at the conversations we had last year. But in reality, you missed some important aspects of the purchase that make a big difference. 1. 535i setup: are you doing stick or 8 speed auto? I ask this because 8 speed is a better match for 300hp with the weight of the car. Speed 6 is not low enough in my opinion. I found speed 8 to be faster than speed 6. even though 0-60 is the same on a race track. The 6-speed transmission, however, is one of the smoothest engagement transmissions I have ever driven. 2. 550i costs...it's way more than gas, 150.00 to lease. If you decide to swap between leases, expect a slap in the face as to how much the 550 depreciates out of the lot. It's best to know this up front. You might be 100% willing to stick with it for three years, but something unexpected could force a sale. My advice, keep some money aside in case you need to be bought out of the lease. 3. M sport...not sure if the rear bumper and reflectors work on the 550i. you didn't even mention this, but I'm sure when you add up the prices on Dynamic and Sport, and add the headliner, you get close to the M Sport price. I have yet to see a silver 550i m sport rear bumper in person. it keeps me unsure...you CAN get a heated wheel on my sport. +1 Bmw 4. a 535i at 66,000 is so expensive. I still can't believe a 550i is only $4-5k more. At this point, a purchase makes perfect sense. a lease of 150.00 per month for 36 months costs you 5400.00. SO A 550 is worth the price difference, I agree with everyone, you have to pay to play, there is no other way to look at it. it's not the best deal. This is the quickest thing. 5. weight...how can BMW make a 5 series 535i that weighs over 4,000 pounds. Sure, but that weight really requires 400 hp. I encountered this problem while driving a 535i stick. it seemed slightly underpowered at full throttle. It's fast, but it doesn't feel fast. The 550i was a rocket and felt fast. 6. The old 5 had real style, but the new style is so rich and understated. I think the look of the 7 Series needs that V8 muscle to back it up. The 300 hp engine just seems a bit wrong considering it's not the older, lighter 5 Series. Many disagree. A 340 hp I6 would be perfect. BMW will probably increase it once the 4 banger arrives next year. 7. gas...so debate 15/22 verses 19/28 is a little over 4 gallons. I've heard 6 or 7 differences on long highway drives. But efficiency only takes you so far. 0-60 in 4.8 seconds is Porsche 911 territory. 8. hides on the streets. a 550i turns heads. Those tailpipes are beautiful. M sport makes them black and chrome. A 550i is considered a beast, while the last 550i was considered slower than a 535i. My goodness, how times have changed...I once thought it would be the 535i hands down. The biggest mistake, besides analyzing it like that... was driving the 550i. Don't even drive it. This will bother you once you realize the right financial choice is a 535i. You can thank BMW for making NAV and other options standard in the 550i. It's loaded to a certain extent!
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| 25011982 (639hp) | OK, here's the update - 1 week, 1 steering rack, 1 160 mile test drive, 1 ZF engineer from Germany and 1 BMW master technician later my car is fixed...... When the technician BMW initially drove my car, immediately told me he knew it was wrong, and diagnosed it as a steering rack, thinking they had ordered some one, last Friday, the ZF engineer and technician drove my car 160 miles connected to a laptop running various tests, during the test drive the ZF engineer said the forces were within tolerance but the technician BMW told him it wasn't right (he told me it hurt his arm). The ZF engineer was reluctant to change the rack, but after some discussion (small argument) he agreed. When I asked the tech what was wrong with the rack things got a little fuzzy, he mentioned a software issue but that seems strange, they changed some hardware and that fixed a software issue ...anyway, the rack goes back to ZF (this is not normal practice) for further testing, and my case was registered in PUMA (BMW knowledge database). If your steering feels strange at speed (it's really horrible), you might have a similar problem. Good job Rybrook BMW especially Ian (technician)
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| jerald (779hp) | Quote: Originally Posted by jk3355 Don't even drive it. This will bother you once you realize the right financial choice is a 535i
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| 7896541230 (157hp) | Quote: Originally posted by BimmerGuyFL I disagree, I had a 2008 E92 335i with sport and had all sorts of traction and steering issues, I even had new tires and LOTS alignment. I just got a 2010 328i E90 Sports and it's night and day. The 328i tracks perfectly straight and without traction. the 335i had 18 and the 328i had 17. I'm not sure we disagree, I said... Quote: For me, this wheel size issue (if we can prove it ) is not a new problem. The E90/1 cars experienced similar problems, at least initially. 17 wheels seemed to have more problems with poor straight line precision and blurring than using 18 axles. I still believe the wheels/tires are part of the problem. That's not to say that no one with other wheel sizes has had problems. For F10/11 cars, over time it may not be a wheel of a certain size that is the fundamental fault, but at present it appears to be the case. Also, BMW still installs 17 wheels on many 3 series, I hope they fixed it somehow, by changing the suspension, geometry or tire specs. I hope the same for the F10/11, whether it's hardware and/or software or over time different tire specs, but one wheel size may be an issue in the arena , more than others. HighlandPete
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| 09091988 (925hp) | Quote: Originally posted by StevenFW This is my first post here, as I've been browsing these forums for a while. I have been driving an E60 2008 535 for almost 3 years, and I am reaching the end of the lease. I'm about to take out a new lease on the 2011 5 Series F10. Before that I had a 2005 545 for 3 years. I can't decide between the 535 and the 550. Now, before anyone starts thinking, oh, yet another 535 vs 550 thread, I'd like to perhaps give a slightly different perspective to this discussion, and perhaps include an amalgamation of some of the better points that are often omitted in similar previous discussions. Back when I rented the 545, the decision between the 530 and 545 was pretty simple. There was no turbo and the power/torque difference between the two was considerable. I was very happy with the 545 initially, even though it was less reliable (service issues) than the 530. However, my first concern arose when I got a 530 on loan. I noticed almost immediately that the 530, with its reduced front weight, was much more maneuverable than the 545. I found the handling to be much better across the board. This stuck with me, and when the time came to re-lease in 2008, the combination of this and the small difference in HP/torque (now 535 turbo 6 vs. 550 NA 8) made purchasing the 535 a no-brainer . I never looked back and was extremely happy. The turbo 6 has incredible torque, and I haven't once thought about the previous 550. Enter the 2011 5 Series and the decision becomes more interesting. The overall weight of the car has increased, while the new turbo 6, although offering better low-end torque, is fundamentally unchanged. There is now a big difference in power/torque between the two engines, with very different power-to-weight ratios. As such, I'm in a dilemma. While the handling issue discussed above is still very important to me, has the equation changed enough to consider the 550? Here are the issues I'm struggling with: 1) Handling is very important to me, at least as important as straight-line acceleration, and the weight distribution on the 550 is still not as close to 50-50 than on the 535. this negatively affects handling, with the 550 feeling nose heavy? This is what I noticed in 2005. This comparison almost always emphasizes times 0-60 and seems to downplay manipulation. 2) Conversely, with the increase in weight, does the 535 seem slower, despite the low-end torque? I don't want to lose the exceptional acceleration and passing power of my current 535. 3) Is the 550 less reliable than the 535? This was true in 2005, as the statistics confirm. Is it better to stick to BMW's core competency: the inline 6-cylinder? 4) Does the F10 550 stop better than the 535? In 2005, the brakes on the 545 were larger than the 530, but were the same on the 535 and 550. Even today, the brakes are larger on the 550. I understand the reasoning, given the added weight of the 550. Brake size is almost never mentioned in this discussion, or elsewhere, however, a BMW's stopping power is an understated feature of the brand. This defies physics, IMHO. I'm sure the brakes are adequate on the 535, but are they supreme on the 550? Is it noticeable? 5) Is it worth taking a handling hit to have M5-like power, increasing the fun factor to the point that the handling difference, if it exists, becomes less significant? Please note that I have not mentioned the cost differences between 550....
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| 20011991 (336hp) | Quote: Originally posted by N16E OK, here's the update - 1 week, 1 steering rack, 1 160 mile test drive, 1 ZF engineer from Germany and 1 BMW master technician later, my car is fixed ......When the BMW technician first drove my car he immediately told me he knew it was wrong and diagnosed it as a steering rack, thinking ahead, they ordered one. Last Friday the ZF engineer and technician drove my car 160 miles connected to a laptop. While performing various tests, during the test drive, the ZF engineer said the forces were within tolerance, but the BMW technician told him this was not correct (he told me this hurt his arm). The ZF engineer was reluctant to change the rack, but after some discussion (small argument) he agreed. When I asked the tech what was wrong with the rack things got a little fuzzy, he mentioned a software issue but that seems strange, they changed some hardware and that fixed a software issue ...anyway, the rack goes back to ZF (this is not normal practice) for further testing, and my case was registered in PUMA (BMW knowledge database). If your steering feels strange at speed (it's really horrible), you might have a similar problem. Good job Rybrook BMW, especially Ian (technician) I don't know how true/relevant this is, but the technician also told me that BMW ditched EPS in favor of hydraulics on the 3 series (unless otherwise stated).)
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| Njave (589hp) | Thank you all for your wonderful and insightful articles. I plan to answer them all in the coming days (too busy at work!). To respond to jk3355's most recent post, no, I haven't made up my mind yet. I will almost certainly have to test both, then use the information presented here as perspective to arrive at a final decision. I hope to do all of this over the next weekend, which is a long weekend for me. Stay tuned and thanks again for all your contributions. It's extremely useful!
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