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| kalamata (972hp) | Quote: Originally posted by Bklynjoker Are you hearing the whining sound of the four-wheel drive and mistaking it for a problem? I came from an E70 I don't think it's a transmission whine as the description doesn't fit. Quote: Originally posted by cantstopthefeeling. There is no change in pitch or intensity/volume at all. It's a very constant high pitched noise..... ....It makes no difference whether I'm going 5mph or 75mph. Here, too, it only happens when the blue ED button is lit. ...The engine speed is irrelevant as just 1% throttle turns off the noise (the EfficentDynamics light also goes off with any type of throttle). A gearbox whine changes with speed and load. Whatever it is, it seems to be related to the way the energy management works in overrun or with the throttle in neutral/zero position.
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| brownkei (756hp) | Quote: Originally posted by HighlandPete I also have a plug-in voltmeter that I use every few weeks to check. My car usually settles at 14.3 to 14.4 volts after driving a few kilometers. When I let off the gas the voltage changes to 14.7 - 14.8 volts. ..which means your battery charge level is > 80%. Otherwise you would see 14.8VDC constantly regardless of the regenerative braking indicator light.
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| shithole1 (524hp) | Quote: Originally posted by Surly73 ...which means your battery charge level is > 80%. Otherwise you would see 14.8VDC constantly regardless of the regenerative braking marketing light. Yes, that will be the case. I use a CTEK charger several times during the winter months to keep the charge level in the 80% range. With my normal summer use the battery stays on >,80%.
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| 15101995 (899hp) | Another way to get to the bottom of a noise problem is to jack up the car, open the hood, and rev the car to get closer to the source of the noise. Use a long tube attached to your ear as a hearing aid. You should take the wheels off so they don't hang down and stretch the suspension AND chock the wheels that are on the ground.
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| toystory2 (962hp) | I recently purchased a 2015 BMW F11 535i M Sport. The car featured a full Alcantara interior. Does anyone else have an Alcantara interior? I noticed that everyone else has leather. The best thing about the seats is that they are not leather, they hold the seat much tighter.
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| Stormbitch (636hp) | I don't think that's an option in NA...
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| diphase (224hp) | I also prefer Alcantara
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| Morning Hawk (935hp) | The other good things are that it looks good and as a synthetic fiber it lasts practically forever. My M3 will soon be 25 years old and the original Amaretta (fabric before Alcantara) still looks brand new. Whereas the extra dollar leather seat optional cars of the same vintage are all torn, worn, cracked and basically don't look good. And as I said, the seats captivate you as soon as you get in and adjust yourself.
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| yankee12 (365hp) | I recently purchased a 2015 BMW F11 535i M Sport. The car featured a full Alcantara interior. Does anyone else have an Alcantara interior? I noticed that everyone else has leather. The best thing about the seats is that they are not leather, they hold the seat much tighter.
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| 791111 (504hp) | I don't think that's an option in NA...
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| scorpio11 (3hp) | I also prefer Alcantara
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| raymart (573hp) | The other good things are that it looks good and as a synthetic fiber it lasts practically forever. My M3 will soon be 25 years old and the original Amaretta (fabric before Alcantara) still looks brand new. Whereas the optional cars with leather seats for the extra dollar are all of the same vintage, all torn and worn, cracked and basically not good looking. And as I said, the seats captivate you as soon as you get in and adjust yourself.
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| lampard1 (196hp) | I installed comfort seats in the car and noticed that the thigh support on the driver's side does not heat. I swapped it with the passenger side and it still doesn't heat even though it works fine on the passenger side, so the support is fine. So I'm assuming it's the wiring. Could a repair shop repair it, or would I need a replacement? If so, do you have any idea what part it is? Thanks
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| angelo2 (538hp) | I have the same problem: how difficult was the replacement with the passenger side??
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| micky (108hp) | I installed comfort seats in the car and noticed that the thigh support on the driver's side does not heat. I swapped it for the passenger side and it still doesn't heat even though it works fine on the passenger side so the support is fine. So I'm assuming it's related to the wiring. Could a repair shop repair it, or would I need a replacement? If so, do you have any idea what part it is? Thanks
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| lottie1 (457hp) | I have the same problem: how difficult was the replacement with the passenger side??
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| katushka (981hp) | Sorry, I've been pretty busy lately! Still, BMWMacht described it absolutely perfectly. It is not a mechanical sound, but an electrical sound in nature. It almost seems like the noise is coming from the instrument cluster. Reminds me that the tension is a little choppy and you can hear a whine on the screen or something similar. I think it's a voltage/battery/alternator issue. I've also noticed that sometimes it depends on how often I drive the car, which is a clear indication that it's purely voltage related. Thanks again for all the advice. Maybe there will be an F10 M in the near future5?!?!
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| 160879 (735hp) | Sorry, I've been pretty busy lately! Still, BMWMacht described it absolutely perfectly. It is not a mechanical sound, but an electrical sound in nature. It almost seems like the noise is coming from the instrument cluster. Reminds me that the tension is a little choppy and you can hear a whine on the screen or something similar. I think it's a voltage/battery/alternator issue. I've also noticed that sometimes it depends on how often I drive the car, which is a clear indication that it's purely voltage related. Thanks again for all the advice. Maybe there will be an F10 M in the near future5?!?!
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| tiffany4 (854hp) | Hi guys, I'm planning on buying a 535 Xi. I have seen a few cars, both from 2014, but there is a difference in the engine. I'm trying to get some information about it. One has one line and the other has 2 lines directly in front of the oil filter. What's wrong with that? What is better? Why is it different? Thanks guys! VS
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| MYLOVE (876hp) | Please provide the last 7 digits of each vehicle's VIN number. It makes answering such questions much easier. Obviously one has a different option than the other. If you obtain or publish the last 7 digits of the VIN, you can easily look up the vehicle in a VIN decoder to see how the car is equipped. Due to build date information, things may change during the production run...even though they may be from the same model year. For example, the 2000 528i/iT debuted in June 1999 with a 4-speed automatic transmission... starting in September 1999, BMW changed the transmission to a 5-speed automatic transmission. Help us serve you better. If you provide really good information/details etc. you will get better answers, suggestions and recommendations.
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| blazedup42 (370hp) | I believe one has an oil cooler (usually an M-Sport option) and the other (1st picture) doesn't. My 2014 M-Sport and my wife's 2012 are a base model. My car has picture #2 and my wife's picture #1.
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| sxQlfjy030426Ka40 (596hp) | Quote: Originally posted by ezaircon4jc I believe one has an oil cooler (usually an M-Sport option) and the other (1st picture) doesn't. My 2014 M-Sport and my wife's 2012 are a base model. My car has picture #2 and my wife's picture #1. I believe the oil cooler also came with the hot climate option. My Canadian car has a hot climate (I know, weird) and I have a full air/air oil cooler circuit. However, under the hood it looks like picture #1. Maybe pre-LCI and LCI do things differently? Does car #2 happen to have a manual transmission? Including or excluding an AT cooler also changes the piping.
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| 020481 (272hp) | Quote: Originally posted by Surly73 I believe the oil cooler also came with the hot climate option. My Canadian car has a hot climate (I know, weird) and I have a full air/air oil cooler circuit. However, under the hood it looks like picture #1. Maybe pre-LCI and LCI do things differently? Does car #2 happen to have a manual transmission? Including or excluding an AT cooler also changes the piping. Our two 535s have the air conditioning version S823Ahot.
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| sabrina3 (949hp) | Quote: Originally posted by ezaircon4jc I believe one has an oil cooler (usually an M-Sport option) and the other (1st picture) doesn't. My 2014 M-Sport and my wife's 2012 are a base model. My car has picture #2 and my wife's picture #1. Thank you for your reply! The confusing part is that both have an M package. Can you please look at these ads for me? Image 1 - https://www.autotrader.ca/a/BMW/5+Series/Oakville/Ontario/5_42229745_/ Image 2 - https://www.autotrader.ca/go/5-42175951
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| 18111993 (523hp) | It is SA823 and SA840
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| JMD0977 (726hp) | Found: Pre-LCI parts diagram for S823A Hot Climate oil filter housing: http://bmwfans.info/parts-catalog/F1...tem_oil_filter For LCI (looks the same): http://bmwfans.info/parts-katalog/F1 ...tem_oil_filter When searching for S840A (high speed synchronization) option, all kinds of additional oil cooler parts are displayed. http://bmwfans.info/parts-catalog/F1...il_cooler_pipe So I bet #2 has S840A. On this page about oil filter housings you will see that EITHER S823A *OR* S840A uses a different housing, but the additional lines are for S840A. http://bmwfans.info/parts-catalog/F1...tem_oil_filter I can't remember where I discovered that S823A is equipped with an air-to-air oil cooler, but I assume I'm wrong and S840A is required for this. The S823A is equipped with more oil cooling than without the option. I'll do some more research. I even read a thread from someone in the southern US who had neither option and upgraded the S823A auxiliary cooler etc etc which helped convince me. I guess I was wrong. To the OP: Get the VINs or at least the last 7 and get option sheets with any number of online BMW VIN decoders. That will clear it up.
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| 130495 (356hp) | Quote: Originally posted by Surly73 Found: Pre-LCI parts diagram for S823A Hot Climate oil filter housing: http://bmwfans.info/parts-catalog/F1...tem_oil_filter For LCI (looks the same): http://bmwfans.info /parts-catalog/F1...tem_oil_filter Searching for option S840A (high speed synchronization) will show all kinds of additional oil cooler parts. http://bmwfans.info/parts-catalog/F1...il_cooler_pipe So I bet #2 has S840A. On this page about oil filter housings you will see that EITHER S823A *OR* S840A uses a different housing, but the additional lines are for S840A. http://bmwfans.info/parts-catalog/F1...tem_oil_filter I can't remember where I discovered that S823A is equipped with an air-to-air oil cooler, but I assume I'm wrong and S840A is required for this. The S823A is equipped with more oil cooling than without the option. I'll do some more research. I even read a thread from someone in the southern US who had neither option and upgraded the S823A auxiliary cooler etc etc which helped convince me. I guess I was wrong. To the OP: Get the VINs or at least the last 7 and get option sheets with any number of online BMW VIN decoders. That will clear it up. Soooo.... Our 2014 (M-Sport) has both S823A and A840A. Our 2012 (base) only has S823A. I didn't follow the lines to see where they lead.
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| 270982 (903hp) | Oil coolers in different versions. At the top there is a heat exchanger and at the bottom there is a district cooler in the wheel arch. No difference in reliability.
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| stratovarius (761hp) | OK - I found the reason why I felt the hot climate version had an air/oil heat exchanger. Pictures from a factory manual below. This may not apply to N55 in an F10, or the design may have been replaced. I'll keep looking.
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| 543543 (882hp) | Hi guys, I'm planning on buying a 535 Xi. I have seen a few cars, both from 2014, but there is a difference in the engine. I'm trying to get some information about it. One has one line and the other has 2 lines directly in front of the oil filter. What's wrong with that? What is better? Why is it different? Thanks guys! VS
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| 16021994 (316hp) | Please provide the last 7 digits of each vehicle's VIN number. It makes answering such questions much easier. Obviously one has a different option than the other. If you obtain or publish the last 7 digits of the VIN, you can easily look up the vehicle in a VIN decoder to see how the car is equipped. Due to build date information, things may change during the production run...even though they may be from the same model year. For example, the 2000 528i/iT debuted in June 1999 with a 4-speed automatic transmission... starting in September 1999, BMW changed the transmission to a 5-speed automatic transmission. Help us serve you better. If you provide really good information/details etc. you will get better answers, suggestions and recommendations.
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| 241194 (997hp) | I believe one has an oil cooler (usually an M-Sport option) and the other (1st picture) doesn't. My 2014 M-Sport and my wife's 2012 are a base model. My car has picture #2 and my wife's picture #1.
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| dragon87 (620hp) | Quote: Originally posted by ezaircon4jc I believe one has an oil cooler (usually an M-Sport option) and the other (1st picture) doesn't. My 2014 M-Sport and my wife's 2012 are a base model. My car has picture #2 and my wife's picture #1. I believe the oil cooler also came with the hot climate option. My Canadian car has a hot climate (I know, weird) and I have a full air/air oil cooler circuit. However, under the hood it looks like picture #1. Maybe pre-LCI and LCI do things differently? Does car #2 happen to have a manual transmission? Including or excluding an AT cooler also changes the piping.
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| candy14 (876hp) | Quote: Originally posted by Surly73 I believe the oil cooler also came with the hot climate option. My Canadian car has a hot climate (I know, weird) and I have a full air/air oil cooler cycle. However, under the hood it looks like picture #1. Maybe pre-LCI and LCI do things differently? Does car #2 happen to have a manual transmission? Including or excluding an AT cooler also changes the piping. Our two 535s have the air conditioning version S823Ahot.
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| bigtruck (364hp) | Quote: Originally posted by ezaircon4jc I believe one has an oil cooler (usually an M-Sport option) and the other (1st picture) doesn't. My 2014 M-Sport and my wife's 2012 are a base model. My car has picture #2 and my wife's picture #1. Thank you for your reply! The confusing part is that both have an M package. Can you please look at these ads for me? Image 1 - https://www.autotrader.ca/a/BMW/5+Series/Oakville/Ontario/5_42229745_/ Image 2 - https://www.autotrader.ca/go/5-42175951
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| nounette (58hp) | It is SA823 and SA840
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| django1 (536hp) | Found: Pre-LCI parts diagram for S823A Hot Climate oil filter housing: http://bmwfans.info/parts-catalog/F1...tem_oil_filter For LCI (looks the same): http://bmwfans.info/parts-katalog/F1 ...tem_oil_filter When searching for S840A (high speed synchronization) option, all kinds of additional oil cooler parts are displayed. http://bmwfans.info/parts-catalog/F1...il_cooler_pipe So I bet #2 has S840A. On this page about oil filter housings you will see that EITHER S823A *OR* S840A uses a different housing, but the additional lines are for S840A. http://bmwfans.info/parts-catalog/F1...tem_oil_filter I can't remember where I discovered that S823A is equipped with an air-to-air oil cooler, but I assume I'm wrong and S840A is required for this. The S823A is equipped with more oil cooling than without the option. I'll do some more research. I even read a thread from someone in the southern US who had neither option and upgraded the S823A auxiliary cooler etc etc which helped convince me. I guess I was wrong. To the OP: Get the VINs or at least the last 7 and get option sheets with any number of online BMW VIN decoders. That will clear it up.
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| horse2 (3hp) | Quote: Originally posted by Surly73 Found: Pre-LCI parts diagram for S823A Hot Climate oil filter housing: http://bmwfans.info/parts-catalog/F1...tem_oil_filter For LCI (looks the same): http://bmwfans.info /parts-catalog/F1...tem_oil_filter Searching for option S840A (high speed synchronization) will show all kinds of additional oil cooler parts. http://bmwfans.info/parts-catalog/F1...il_cooler_pipe So I bet #2 has S840A. On this page about oil filter housings you will see that EITHER S823A *OR* S840A uses a different housing, but the additional lines are for S840A. http://bmwfans.info/parts-catalog/F1...tem_oil_filter I can't remember where I discovered that S823A is equipped with an air-to-air oil cooler, but I assume I'm wrong and S840A is required for this. The S823A is equipped with more oil cooling than without the option. I'll do some more research. I even read a thread from someone in the southern US who had neither option and upgraded the S823A auxiliary cooler etc etc which helped convince me. I guess I was wrong. To the OP: Get the VINs or at least the last 7 and get option sheets with any number of online BMW VIN decoders. That will clear it up. Soooo.... Our 2014 (M-Sport) has both S823A and A840A. Our 2012 (base) only has S823A. I didn't follow the lines to see where they lead.
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| paradise2 (638hp) | Oil coolers in different versions. At the top there is a heat exchanger and at the bottom there is a district cooler in the wheel arch. No difference in reliability.
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| 030479 (281hp) | OK - I found the reason why I felt the hot climate version had an air/oil heat exchanger. Pictures from a factory manual below. This may not apply to N55 in an F10, or the design may have been replaced. I'll keep looking.
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| bimme92 (168hp) | Hello. My 2013 BMW 528i has been having some issues lately. Now I ran an OBD2 scan on it and there were a few error codes. I hope someone can tell me what that means. Transmission: 420571 This is what I'm most concerned about as the car shifted into neutral multiple times after waiting at a stop sign/intersection. The car is automatic.
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| yahoo0 (318hp) | Generic scanners output generic codes. Which scanner did you use? Where does the M5 come into play???
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| yes90125 (139hp) | Hello. My 2013 BMW 528i has been having some issues lately. Now I ran an OBD2 scan on it and there were a few error codes. I hope someone can tell me what that means. Transmission: 420571 This is what I'm most concerned about as the car shifted into neutral multiple times after waiting at a stop sign/intersection. The car is automatic.
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| 280992 (875hp) | Generic scanners output generic codes. Which scanner did you use? Where does the M5 come into play???
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| 23081984 (379hp) | So the stock F10 bulb is Osram 4300k? Thanks !
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| slutty (908hp) | ^can anyone confirm this?
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| dzz (536hp) | Well, based on Osram's own specification - product reference 66144. It's 4150K, maximum 3200 lumens
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| iloveyou04 (741hp) | Quote: Originally written by bobblehead. Well, based on Osram's own specification - product reference 66144. It's 4150K, maximum 3200 lumens. Thanks. I ordered a set of CBI 5000k bulbs. Headlights will look badass!
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| V8LIFE (523hp) | Did you order from Matt (aftermarket source)? If so, I hope you got a good deal. If not, who did you order from (if you don't mind me asking).) ?
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| 200992 (675hp) | Yes, I got them from Matt @ retrofitstore. $175 shipped. He still has one last pair left.
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| monique2 (650hp) | I like your feedback after installation. I've heard that curing will take some time (probably 50+ hours) to reach the fullest white.
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| babe21 (421hp) | Placed the puppies today...I love them!!!! Day/night difference in output and color. Question: Is it possible to adjust the height adjustment during the removal and installation process? I'm pretty sure it's the brighter bulb... as I feel like the limit is higher?
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| carioca (516hp) | I think it's just a matter of your eye perception as your eyes see whiter colors more crisply. You have checked that the bottom of the bulb says “Osram” with the “Made in Germany” symbol. Technically speaking, CBI - since it is 5000K vs stock 4150K, the higher the temperature, the lower the lumen count... This is why all car manufacturers choose 4100-4300K as their standard bulb as it gives off the maximum illumination. The Osram CBI bulb needs to increase the lumen output back to the standard 3200 lumens with its newer technology. Therefore, you now have the best of both worlds: much whiter colors and maximum lumens. Although it is a bit expensive, I think it is money well spent.
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| 101195 (927hp) | ^ I agree, I think it's my eyes and once they get used to it in a few days everything should be fine. Just FYI: *The standard bulb that came out is Osram 66140 (made in Germany) and has a brown return wire. * Matt@theretrofitsource's CBI bulb is Osram 66140CBI (made in Germany) with a blue return wire. *I didn't jack the car up, I turned the wheel one way to get the screws out and then the other way to actually replace the light bulb. *Once you pull out the original bulb, there is a black, round, locking plastic piece that must be carefully removed and transferred to the new bulb before reinserting it into the headlight. During this step, be careful not to touch the glass of the bulb. *Turning the bulb counterclockwise to remove *may* require some force, but be very careful when doing so so as not to dislocate the parts. The entire procedure took me about 30 minutes. Space is at a premium and people with large hands will have a hard time reconnecting the power cord to the light bulb. Ultimately, these CBI bulbs are worth the money. After ordering, I suffered from buyer's remorse ($175 isn't exactly cheap), but after putting them in, I was very happy to get these bulbs. Although the bulbs take some time to turn milky white, I also like the color they initially emit and much better than the original color.
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| maianbinh (703hp) | ^^ Nice information provided. Who says money can't buy happiness? In this case we have evidence.
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| lucozade (662hp) | So for standard Xexon match BULB REPLACEMENT ONLY Does anyone have GP Thunder Plasma White H8, 8500K/35W fused silica bulbs? My understanding is that the standard Xexon is 4150? Correct? I've been looking for a bulb replacement for just the FOG BULB (h8, not ///m), not the stock XEXON CBI bulb, for a week or two now. Even if you've done this before, have you found a good place to buy the h8? and/or the corner bulb? Thank you in advance
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| cheech1 (592hp) | I previously had the GP Thunder H8 on my E60. Lasted about 9 months and the coating on the bulb started to peel off. Although the cost was about $25 + shipping. It wasn't worth the money. Additionally, the 8500K is more purple than whitish. Doesn't match the stock xenon headlight at all, but some will say otherwise. In my opinion the result is a disappointment. Here are some links to an online retailer where some bloggers purchased the e90post (3 series). Prices are typical RRP and are not discounted at all. http://www.highperformancebulbs.com/h8bulbs.html http://search.store.yahoo.net/racing...uery=(H8).html
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| steinway (27hp) | First of all, thank you very much for the answer. My question was and was this. HAS ANYONE ON THIS FORUM CHANGED (not retrofitted) THE FOG BULBS, JUST THE BULBS? If you answered yes to this question... Which company/website did you use/purchase the light bulbs that best suit you in color? Thanks again. I want to order them asap but couldn't find Osram. If the stock is 4150, 8500 seems too different, BUT if a forum member tells me NO, of course that's a good fit, then I'll confidently order a pair. Do you understand where I'm coming from? PS Exactly the same applies to the cornering lights. Quote: Originally posted by bobblehead I already had the GP Thunder H8 on my E60. Lasted about 9 months and the coating on the bulb started to peel off. Although the cost was about $25 + shipping. It wasn't worth the money. Additionally, the 8500K is more purple than whitish. Doesn't match the stock xenon headlight at all, but some will say otherwise. In my opinion the result is a disappointment. Here are some links to an online retailer where some bloggers purchased the e90post (3 series). Prices are typical RRP and are not discounted at all. http://www.highperformancebulbs.com/h8bulbs.html http://search.store.yahoo.net/racing...uery=(H8).html
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| oracle123 (517hp) | ^^^ Here are some pictures for comparison on the e90post.com forum - the stock H8 fog lamp bulb was swapped for a GP Thunder 7500K H8 bulb. http://www.e90post.com/forums/showthread.php?t=513783 I hope this gives you an idea of what will happen next
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| chelsea13 (694hp) | So the F10 people who don't retrofit their fog lights with ballasts and just replace the bulbs went with GP Thunder 7500 like the E9X people did? Also any insight into the company's cornering light bulbs, etc. Thanks Quote: Originally posted by bobblehead ^^^ Here are some pictures on the e90post.com forum for comparison - the stock H8 fog lamp bulb was swapped out for a GP Thunder 7500K H8 bulb. http://www.e90post.com/forums/showthread.php?t=513783 I hope this gives you an idea of what will happen next
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| Z4C_luvver (893hp) | Yes! Just a simple replacement of the halogen bulb for both fog and cornering. For cornering you can use both the GP Thunder and the Type H7. This only applies if you like the way the GP Thunder looks as shown. Please note that the coating on the GP Thunder will peel off after approximately 6 to 9 months of use. Even if it doesn't peel off, you can expect it to last about 1 to 1.5 years. Here is a place that sells GP Thunder: http://www.e90post.com/forums/showth...cornering+bulb Quote: Originally posted by BaLLzZz So the F10 people who don't retrofit ballast install fog and Were the bulbs replaced with just the GP Thunder 7500 like the E9X lot did? Also information about the company's cornering lights etc. Thanks
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| evolution7 (402hp) | Quote: Originally posted by bobblehead D1S - if replacing, try Osram CBI...no yellow cast. $175 for a pair (USA), I don't think they have 8000K bulbs...
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| june16 (184hp) | Does anyone know if the high beam is also D1S???
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| Mgone (793hp) | Same light bulb. It's bi-xenon.
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| devil2 (523hp) | Just so I understand... In order for me to change the headlight bulb, the car needs to be on a lift for the EASIEST installation?
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| 12345tgb (847hp) | Quote: Originally written by luigimaster24 Hey Alex!! I just switched on my low beam headlights with 5000k D1S bulbs on Monday. No more yellow tint like the standard xenon lamps, just PURE white. They now also fit the angel eyes perfectly. Installation is simple: 1- Jack up the car and turn the wheel all the way to the opposite side. (You don't have to jack the car up, but it will definitely make it easier and save you from having to do Hudini moves just to get there.) 2- Remove two screws to open the small door on the fender panel. 3- Remove the cover where the D1S bulb is located. 4- Make sure the car is COMPLETELY turned off and there is no power to the headlights or anything similar. 5- Unplug the power plug at the bottom of the D1S bulb. 6- Turn the bulb counterclockwise and remove it. 7- Replace the D1S bulbs, reinsert and reconnect the connector. 8- Put everything back together and repeat the steps on the other side. 9- Have fun!!! Basically, there is an access panel to the headlight bulbs from the inside of each wheel arch?
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| 130189 (887hp) | So the stock F10 bulb is Osram 4300k? Thanks !
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| Haides (641hp) | ^can anyone confirm this?
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| Max (545hp) | Well, based on Osram's own specification - product reference 66144. It's 4150K, maximum 3200 lumens
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| angel1991 (328hp) | Quote: Originally written by bobblehead. Well, based on Osram's own specification - product reference 66144. It's 4150K, maximum 3200 lumens. Thanks. I ordered a set of CBI 5000k bulbs. Headlights will look badass!
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| 120000 (869hp) | Did you order from Matt (aftermarket source)? If so, I hope you got a good deal. If not, who did you order from (if you don't mind me asking).) ?
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| june01 (593hp) | Yes, I got them from Matt @ retrofitstore. $175 shipped. He still has one last pair left.
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| michael00 (761hp) | I like your feedback after installation. I've heard that curing will take some time (probably 50+ hours) to reach the fullest white.
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| na (393hp) | Placed the puppies today...I love them!!!! Day/night difference in output and color. Question: Is it possible to adjust the height adjustment during the removal and installation process? I'm pretty sure it's the brighter bulb... as I feel like the limit is higher?
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| max007 (66hp) | I think it's just a matter of your eye perception as your eyes see whiter colors more crisply. You have checked that the bottom of the bulb says “Osram” with the “Made in Germany” symbol. Technically speaking, CBI - since it is 5000K vs stock 4150K, the higher the temperature, the lower the lumen count... This is why all car manufacturers choose 4100-4300K as their standard bulb as it gives off the maximum illumination. The Osram CBI bulb needs to increase the lumen output back to the standard 3200 lumens with its newer technology. Therefore, you now have the best of both worlds: much whiter colors and maximum lumens. Although it is a bit expensive, I think it is money well spent.
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| 120490 (595hp) | ^ I agree, I think it's my eyes and once they get used to it in a few days everything should be fine. Just FYI: *The standard bulb that came out is Osram 66140 (made in Germany) and has a brown return wire. * Matt@theretrofitsource's CBI bulb is Osram 66140CBI (made in Germany) with a blue return wire. *I didn't jack the car up, I turned the wheel one way to get the screws out and then the other way to actually replace the light bulb. *Once you pull out the original bulb, there is a black, round, locking plastic piece that must be carefully removed and transferred to the new bulb before reinserting it into the headlight. During this step, be careful not to touch the glass of the bulb. *Turning the bulb counterclockwise to remove *may* require some force, but be very careful when doing so so as not to dislocate the parts. The entire procedure took me about 30 minutes. Space is at a premium and people with large hands will have a hard time reconnecting the power cord to the light bulb. Ultimately, these CBI bulbs are worth the money. After ordering, I suffered from buyer's remorse ($175 isn't exactly cheap), but after putting them in, I was very happy to get these bulbs. Although the bulbs take some time to turn milky white, I also like the color they initially emit and much better than the original color.
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| sarah69 (864hp) | ^^ Nice information provided. Who says money can't buy happiness? In this case we have evidence.
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| 25051983 (523hp) | So for standard Xexon match BULB REPLACEMENT ONLY Does anyone have GP Thunder Plasma White H8, 8500K/35W fused silica bulbs? My understanding is that the standard Xexon is 4150? Correct? I've been looking for a bulb replacement for just the FOG BULB (h8, not ///m), not the stock XEXON CBI bulb, for a week or two now. Even if you've done this before, have you found a good place to buy the h8? and/or the corner bulb? Thank you in advance
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| austin96 (452hp) | I previously had the GP Thunder H8 on my E60. Lasted about 9 months and the coating on the bulb started to peel off. Although the cost was about $25 + shipping. It wasn't worth the money. Additionally, the 8500K is more purple than whitish. Doesn't match the stock xenon headlight at all, but some will say otherwise. In my opinion the result is a disappointment. Here are some links to an online retailer where some bloggers purchased the e90post (3 series). Prices are typical RRP and are not discounted at all. http://www.highperformancebulbs.com/h8bulbs.html http://search.store.yahoo.net/racing...uery=(H8).html
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| qwerty84 (649hp) | First of all, thank you very much for the answer. My question was and was this. HAS ANYONE ON THIS FORUM CHANGED (not retrofitted) THE FOG BULBS, JUST THE BULBS? If you answered yes to this question... Which company/website did you use/purchase the light bulbs that best suit you in color? Thanks again. I want to order them asap but couldn't find Osram. If the stock is 4150, 8500 seems too different, BUT if a forum member tells me NO, of course that's a good fit, then I'll confidently order a pair. Do you understand where I'm coming from? PS Exactly the same applies to the cornering lights. Quote: Originally posted by bobblehead I already had the GP Thunder H8 on my E60. Lasted about 9 months and the coating on the bulb started to peel off. Although the cost was about $25 + shipping. It wasn't worth the money. Additionally, the 8500K is more purple than whitish. Doesn't match the stock xenon headlight at all, but some will say otherwise. In my opinion the result is a disappointment. Here are some links to an online retailer where some bloggers purchased the e90post (3 series). Prices are typical RRP and are not discounted at all. http://www.highperformancebulbs.com/h8bulbs.html http://search.store.yahoo.net/racing...uery=(H8).html
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| delapan (719hp) | ^^^ Here are some pictures for comparison on the e90post.com forum - the stock H8 fog lamp bulb was swapped for a GP Thunder 7500K H8 bulb. http://www.e90post.com/forums/showthread.php?t=513783 I hope this gives you an idea of what will happen next
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| lilly2 (407hp) | So the F10 people who don't retrofit their fog lights with ballasts and just replace the bulbs went with GP Thunder 7500 like the E9X people did? Also any insight into the company's cornering light bulbs, etc. Thanks Quote: Originally posted by bobblehead ^^^ Here are some pictures on the e90post.com forum for comparison - the stock H8 fog lamp bulb was swapped out for a GP Thunder 7500K H8 bulb. http://www.e90post.com/forums/showthread.php?t=513783 I hope this gives you an idea of what will happen next
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| barrington (532hp) | Yes! Just a simple replacement of the halogen bulb for both fog and cornering. For cornering you can use both the GP Thunder and the Type H7. This only applies if you like the way the GP Thunder looks as shown. Please note that the coating on the GP Thunder will peel off after approximately 6 to 9 months of use. Even if it doesn't peel off, you can expect it to last about 1 to 1.5 years. Here is a place that sells GP Thunder: http://www.e90post.com/forums/showth...cornering+bulb Quote: Originally posted by BaLLzZz So the F10 people who don't retrofit ballast install fog and Were the bulbs replaced with just the GP Thunder 7500 like the E9X lot did? Also information about the company's cornering lights etc. Thanks
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| tony06 (928hp) | Quote: Originally posted by bobblehead D1S - if replacing, try Osram CBI...no yellow cast. $175 for a pair (USA), I don't think they have 8000K bulbs...
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| qwaszxerdfcv (563hp) | Does anyone know if the high beam is also D1S???
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| Ab7f23rSV (108hp) | Same light bulb. It's bi-xenon.
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| 180284 (769hp) | Just so I understand... In order for me to change the headlight bulb, the car needs to be on a lift for the EASIEST installation?
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| hidalgo (622hp) | Quote: Originally written by luigimaster24 Hey Alex!! I just switched on my low beam headlights with 5000k D1S bulbs on Monday. No more yellow tint like the standard xenon lamps, just PURE white. They now also fit the angel eyes perfectly. Installation is simple: 1- Jack up the car and turn the wheel all the way to the opposite side. (You don't have to jack the car up, but it will definitely make it easier and save you from having to do Hudini moves just to get there.) 2- Remove two screws to open the small door on the fender panel. 3- Remove the cover where the D1S bulb is located. 4- Make sure the car is COMPLETELY turned off and there is no power to the headlights or anything similar. 5- Unplug the power plug at the bottom of the D1S bulb. 6- Turn the bulb counterclockwise and remove it. 7- Replace the D1S bulbs, reinsert and reconnect the connector. 8- Put everything back together and repeat the steps on the other side. 9- Have fun!!! Basically, there is an access panel to the headlight bulbs from the inside of each wheel arch?
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| 141193 (975hp) | Hello team, I have a 2013 535 with around 53,000 miles on it. I noticed that about 20% of the time when I press the start button the car starts and doesn't start completely. But it starts with the second kick-off. Anyone else have this problem? If so, was it covered under warranty? My CPO expires next month.
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| aisling (268hp) | Quote: Originally posted by f10inSD Hello team...I have a 2013 535 with about 53,000 miles on it. I noticed that about 20% of the time when I press the start button the car starts and doesn't start completely. But it starts with the second kick-off. Anyone else have this problem? If so, was it covered under warranty? My CPO expires next month. Sounds like a dead battery. Visit Michael Duplessis at BMW Escondido. When you go there, tell him I sent you! He has done everything good for me in the last 4 years. I'm pretty sure the battery is NOT covered by CPO because BMW (and all other manufacturers) consider it a consumable part.
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| anadolu (770hp) | Thanks for the reply! Wouldn't I get a low battery warning first when I'm driving??
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| babygurl5 (256hp) | Quote: Originally written by f10inSD Thanks for the reply! Wouldn't I get a low battery warning first when I'm driving? I would think so. I would also suspect the starter motor, but I haven't heard or read anything about the starter motor being a fault point. I would definitely get it checked before you lose the CPO warranty. The $180 diagnostic fee is waived as long as the repair is covered by CPO. Then you just pay the $50 processing fee.
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| CRISTIAN (328hp) | Crank and no start wouldn't cause battery or starter failure for me, unless of course the crank is very slow. But in this case it probably wouldn't start right away on the second press of the start button.
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| 13021988 (276hp) | Quote: Originally written by f10inSD Thanks for the reply! Wouldn't I get a low battery warning first when I'm driving? Before I think it's the battery... Does it spin at full speed or slowly (sluggishly)? At full speed it's probably not the battery or starter motor problem. More likely it is a fuel problem, perhaps the pressure is not enough when you first start it up. Crank speed is a key to solving the problem.
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| badong (939hp) | Quote: Originally posted by NinetyEight740 If I were to crank and not start, that wouldn't cause the battery or starter to fail, unless of course the crank is very slow. But in this case it probably wouldn't start on the second press of the start button. Agree.
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| nuggets3 (538hp) | Quote: Originally written by HighlandPete. Before I think it's the battery... Is it running at full speed or slow (sluggish)? At full speed it's probably not the battery or starter motor problem. More likely it is a fuel problem, perhaps the pressure is not enough when you first start it up. Crank speed is a key to solving the problem. It's running at full speed. I actually made an appointment with the dealer for this Thursday. I had to get it in before my CPO expired on February 15th. I will keep you updated. There were no starting problems today. It comes and goes. It makes me think I'm getting the good old "unable to reproduce".”.
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| djhvbrc (552hp) | Quote: Originally written by HighlandPete. Before I think it's the battery... Is it running at full speed or slow (sluggish)? At full speed it's probably not the battery or starter motor problem. More likely it is a fuel problem, perhaps the pressure is not enough when you first start it up. Crank speed is a key to solving the problem. Quote: Originally posted by HighlandPete. Agreed. Quote: Originally written by f10inSD It's in full swing. I actually made an appointment with the dealer for this Thursday. I had to get it in before my CPO expired on February 15th. I will keep you updated. There were no starting problems today. It comes and goes. It makes me think that I will get the good that is unable to reproduce. I misread... I thought you said slow cranking. Ignore what I said. At least it is documented as a problem.
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| 030378 (227hp) | Hello team, I have a 2013 535 with around 53,000 miles on it. I noticed that about 20% of the time when I press the start button the car starts and doesn't start completely. But it starts with the second kick-off. Anyone else have this problem? If so, was it covered under warranty? My CPO expires next month.
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| 160790 (586hp) | Quote: Originally posted by f10inSD Hello team...I have a 2013 535 with about 53,000 miles on it. I noticed that about 20% of the time when I press the start button the car starts and doesn't start completely. But it starts with the second kick-off. Anyone else have this problem? If so, was it covered under warranty? My CPO expires next month. Sounds like a dead battery. Visit Michael Duplessis at BMW Escondido. When you go there, tell him I sent you! He has done everything good for me in the last 4 years. I'm pretty sure the battery is NOT covered by CPO because BMW (and all other manufacturers) consider it a consumable part.
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| BimmersMania (87hp) | Thanks for the reply! Wouldn't I get a low battery warning first when I'm driving??
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| Mdrei (394hp) | Quote: Originally written by f10inSD Thanks for the reply! Wouldn't I get a low battery warning first when I'm driving? I would think so. I would also suspect the starter motor, but I haven't heard or read anything about the starter motor being a fault point. I would definitely get it checked before you lose the CPO warranty. The $180 diagnostic fee is waived as long as the repair is covered by CPO. Then you just pay the $50 processing fee.
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| cornel (113hp) | Crank and no start wouldn't cause battery or starter failure for me, unless of course the crank is very slow. But in this case it probably wouldn't start right away on the second press of the start button.
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| cruzazul10 (696hp) | Quote: Originally written by f10inSD Thanks for the reply! Wouldn't I get a low battery warning first when I'm driving? Before I think it's the battery... Does it spin at full speed or slowly (sluggishly)? At full speed it's probably not the battery or starter motor problem. More likely it is a fuel problem, perhaps the pressure is not enough when you first start it up. Crank speed is a key to solving the problem.
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| RobManser (599hp) | Quote: Originally posted by NinetyEight740 If I were to crank and not start, that wouldn't cause the battery or starter to fail, unless of course the crank is very slow. But in this case it probably wouldn't start on the second press of the start button. Agree.
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| wilson5 (595hp) | Quote: Originally written by HighlandPete. Before I think it's the battery... Is it running at full speed or slow (sluggish)? At full speed it's probably not the battery or starter motor problem. More likely it is a fuel problem, perhaps the pressure is not enough when you first start it up. Crank speed is a key to solving the problem. It's running at full speed. I actually made an appointment with the dealer for this Thursday. I had to get it in before my CPO expired on February 15th. I will keep you updated. There were no starting problems today. It comes and goes. It makes me think I'm getting the good old "unable to reproduce".”.
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| kelsey10 (33hp) | Quote: Originally written by HighlandPete. Before I think it's the battery... Is it running at full speed or slow (sluggish)? At full speed it's probably not the battery or starter motor problem. More likely it is a fuel problem, perhaps the pressure is not enough when you first start it up. Crank speed is a key to solving the problem. Quote: Originally posted by HighlandPete. Agreed. Quote: Originally written by f10inSD It's in full swing. I actually made an appointment with the dealer for this Thursday. I had to get it in before my CPO expired on February 15th. I will keep you updated. There were no starting problems today. It comes and goes. It makes me think that I will get the good that is unable to reproduce. I misread... I thought you said slow cranking. Ignore what I said. At least it is documented as a problem.
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| mit (787hp) | Hi everyone, I have a 2011 535i N55 that is currently leaking coolant. I had no choice but to put green coolant in it. I work at Firestone and we have brown coolant. Could I continue to add brown coolant or what do I need to do? I need to know before I leave work today as my coolant is running low again. We would be very grateful for any information!
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| Norritt (896hp) | You should only use blue BMW coolant. A gallon is only $20 at the retailer and needs to be diluted 1:1 with distilled water. Replace the non-BMW coolant as soon as possible
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| paperino (476hp) | Hi everyone, I have a 2011 535i N55 that is currently leaking coolant. I had no choice but to put green coolant in it. I work at Firestone and we have brown coolant. Could I continue to add brown coolant or what do I need to do? I need to know before I leave work today as my coolant is running low again. We would be very grateful for any information!
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| planner (904hp) | You should only use blue BMW coolant. A gallon is only $20 at the retailer and needs to be diluted 1:1 with distilled water. Replace the non-BMW coolant as soon as possible
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| Eyvazk (812hp) | Hello everyone, I recently became the owner of an F10 2012 520D. Everything is good so far, but something very strange happened. I live in Europe and now it's cold (around 1-3 degrees Celsius). It all started a few days ago. Every morning when I start my car and do, say, 50-100 m and then hit the brakes a little harder, the auto stop system triggers itself. Today after it happened again even when I turned it off, 100m later and boom again. Afterwards, on the way to work, everything seemed fine. So I know that certain conditions must be met before the system is triggered, and I'm sure one of them is reaching the optimal temperature first. It really amazes me how the car can shut off the engine when the engine is cold. Also, I think my battery needs to be replaced soon. Could it be the battery? I would be very grateful for any guidance!
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| omalley (479hp) | The fact that the system is still active even when disabled indicates that the activation switch is not working properly.
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| hobbes1 (183hp) | Something seems wrong that when you disable start/stop the car still turns off. However, I must note that for the first few years of ownership, my F10 complied with the start/stop operation criteria as per its design: temperature below 3°C, stop-and-go traffic, etc. But now it seems to be always operational. LOL!
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| sasha_007 (913hp) | Does the computer give an error message? You should also check the following: 1. Battery status 2. It has been coded (judging by the MY, it's probably not the original).).
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| silicon (975hp) | Quote: Originally posted by ReluctantRenegade Does the computer give an error message? You should also check the following: 1. Battery status 2. It has been coded (judging by the MY, it's probably not the original). I'm going to check the voltage today but the battery is the original battery and that's one of the reasons why I think it's time for a change even if the car starts fine. However, I bought it two weeks ago. I don't have a clear observation yet.
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| guccimane1 (242hp) | Hello everyone, I recently became the owner of an F10 2012 520D. Everything is good so far, but something very strange happened. I live in Europe and now it's cold (around 1-3 degrees Celsius). It all started a few days ago. Every morning when I start my car and do, say, 50-100 m and then hit the brakes a little harder, the auto stop system triggers itself. Today after it happened again even when I turned it off, 100m later and boom again. Afterwards, on the way to work, everything seemed fine. So I know that certain conditions must be met before the system is triggered, and I'm sure one of them is reaching the optimal temperature first. It really amazes me how the car can shut off the engine when the engine is cold. Also, I think my battery needs to be replaced soon. Could it be the battery? I would be very grateful for any guidance!
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| oe1991 (710hp) | The fact that the system is still active even when disabled indicates that the activation switch is not working properly.
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| prima (120hp) | Something seems wrong that when you disable start/stop the car still turns off. However, I must note that for the first few years of ownership, my F10 complied with the start/stop operation criteria as per its design: temperature below 3°C, stop-and-go traffic, etc. But now it seems to be always operational. LOL!
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| 131094 (94hp) | Does the computer give an error message? You should also check the following: 1. Battery status 2. It has been coded (judging by the MY, it's probably not the original).).
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| Robs335iproblems (879hp) | Quote: Originally posted by ReluctantRenegade Does the computer give an error message? You should also check the following: 1. Battery status 2. It has been coded (judging by the MY, it's probably not the original). I'm going to check the voltage today but the battery is the original battery and that's one of the reasons why I think it's time for a change even if the car starts fine. However, I bought it two weeks ago. I don't have a clear observation yet.
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