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| dauphine (884hp) | Quote: Originally written by OldToby. Considered is a 2016 535d with adaptive headlights (option code 524) and variable light distribution decoding (option code 8S4). Does this mean the car has adaptive LED headlights? I see previous cars (2014) specifically offer adaptive LED headlights as an option, while this one doesn't. Does this mean that LEDs were standard equipment in 2016 and are therefore no longer offered as an option? Or does that mean these are the old-fashioned xenon lights that turn with the steering? According to the parts database, the 2016 535d may have xenon headlights or optional LED headlights (option code S552a): https://www.realoem.com/bmw/enUS/sho...diagId=63_1210
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| rip2pac (933hp) | Well, my local BMW SA can't find any warranty on the car. I would have to call BMW NA and find a way to reinstate the 100,000 mile ESC warranty. I know if the car was ever part of an auction or dealer it would void the warranty, but I'm not sure BMW knows that.
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| 170382 (309hp) | Optional, not standard. Mine is very well equipped and luckily the LEDs were added. I love her.
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| lolly123 (435hp) | There is no extended warranty for the car; the previous owner canceled the policy in writing. I changed a Shrader valve but the refrigerant loss continues. it's about 1 pound per 24 hours. Today I injected Red Angels 2 oz Fluid Seal. with another pound of refrigerant. Let it idle for 20 minutes with the A/C on maximum. This was the last option, there is no dye to be seen anywhere and I have already tried 2 other different sealers. It all points to the evaporator. To be sure, I need to confirm that there is a refrigerant leak coming from the vents. I bought an electric scanner for $20 on Amazon. should be here in a week. In the meantime, I installed the Stanadyne FM100 2 micron fuel filter with water separator tray. The stock 1/4 inch fuel line fits right in. I will tackle this project one day when I can take the time to prepare the system with ISTA.
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| Chili Palmer (921hp) | Considered is a 535d built in 2016 with adaptive cornering lights (option code 524) and variable light distribution decoding (option code 8S4). Does this mean the car has adaptive LED headlights? I see previous cars (2014) specifically offer adaptive LED headlights as an option, while this one doesn't. Does this mean that LEDs were standard equipment in 2016 and are therefore no longer offered as an option? Or does that mean that these are the old-fashioned xenon headlights that can be controlled with the steering when turning??
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| mikejohn (246hp) | The “no air conditioning” condition has become a significant problem. The system now loses 1 pound of R134a in less than 15 hours. I've injected dangerous amounts of dye before, both individually and as part of the three sealing systems I've tried. I can't see any evidence of an accident anywhere in the car. Granted, I didn't go under the car to check the leaks under the car. Although there is a possibility that the AC compressor has a very difficult to detect leak behind the pulley. I think that is highly unlikely. Using the $15 sniffer pictured above turned out to be a waste of time. On my x5 it beeps when cold air blows on it. There is also the possibility that the refrigerant is getting into the driver's vents through a leak in the engine compartment. The possible approaches, in order of least effort/cost, are: 1. Purchase an ultrasonic device that can hear the ultrasonic turbulence caused by the leak. The leak is huge, so it should be discovered here. but if it is too deep under the dashboard it may not work. Fortunately, the noise can be created by creating a vacuum or by inserting a $4, 1-pound can of 134a from Home Depot. Nitrogen can also be used and should produce a louder ultrasound because the molecules are thinner. 2. Buy a more powerful UV LED light that may deliver the dye better than my pen's UV light. The dyes were both UV and red colors so I'm not sure if this is of any use. 3. Pressurize the entire system with nitrogen as described above. Except that the BMW manual ONLY requires pressurizing the evaporator. Since I don't have the evaporator pressure adapter (and don't know where to buy it), I would have to build an adapter myself that can handle 120 psi or pressurize the entire system. I'm not sure if that's safe. I'm not sure what the cost will be for a small 10lb can of nitrogen + the necessary adapters. It would be at least $200. No guarantee. I can hear it. 4. With the vehicle completely cold, introduce refrigerant and use a thermal camera to see if the gas cools the surrounding areas. This would only work if the leak was at the compressor shaft seal or somewhere under the hood. My main suspect is the evaporator. The strange smells that arise from this could be a clue. But even if there is no refrigerant left, there is a smell. This means that mold or something else is probably causing the smell. BMW quotes $350 just to run dye through the system. Things go uphill from there. No, they don't just put pressure on my evaporator. They have their procedures. But I'm looking at $1,000 just to make a diagnosis. Replacing the evaporator would take 16 hours plus replacement parts if necessary. The dash won't come off unless I'm 100% sure the evaporator is bad. And the ultrasound machine seems to be my best option at the moment. I went with the Inficon Whisper via Amazon. If it is of no use, I can always return it.
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| 060287 (194hp) | My 2016 535dx is fairly well equipped but has what you describe as old fashioned xenon lights that turn with the steering.
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| 040689 (899hp) | Nice build, it's come a long way! Good luck with everything, man!
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| celina (23hp) | Quote: Originally written by OldToby. Considered is a 2016 535d with adaptive headlights (option code 524) and variable light distribution decoding (option code 8S4). Does this mean the car has adaptive LED headlights? I see previous cars (2014) specifically offer adaptive LED headlights as an option, while this one doesn't. Does this mean that LEDs were standard equipment in 2016 and are therefore no longer offered as an option? Or does that mean these are the old-fashioned xenon lights that turn with the steering? According to the parts database, the 2016 535d may have xenon headlights or optional LED headlights (option code S552a): https://www.realoem.com/bmw/enUS/sho...diagId=63_1210
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| sheffield1 (843hp) | Quote: Originally written by BurrNinja. Nice build, it's come a long way! Good luck with everything, man! Thank you very much!! I got a new toy today. Did a few tests on the stove to get an idea of what gas and an open faucet sound like. Leaks sound like wind through the ultrasonic detector. Perfect. First, I inspected the car thoroughly with the microphone to get used to the noise. (There is a beep from the ignition.) Then I put a can or 134a in it (also found a leak in the hoses and listened to it with the ultrasonic, it sounds very, very loud like air turbulence.) With the car turned off, both Shredder scanned valves. the front condenser around the compressor wheel and the evaporator. Yes, there is a characteristic noise coming from the evaporator. I went a step further and removed the passenger airbag and cabin filter housing. The noise becomes louder, the noise depends largely on the location of the evaporator. The noise decreases in intensity when the car is stationary with the engine off. After about 3 minutes the sound fades almost completely. I assume that the amount of refrigerant in the evaporator will decrease if the compressor doesn't continually pump in more refrigerant when there are leaks. The evaporator has been known to hiss and make strange noises when the refrigerant is low, which left me a little tired. I need to be 100% sure there is a leak there. I turned the car on and off a few times with and without the fan running. I also heard the sound of 134a escaping from a vent again and it can be heard very clearly. I also placed the microphone near the expansion valve, no sound can be heard from the engine compartment. Then I tried using the cheap refrigerant sniffer from Amazon on the water drain hose as the refrigerant travels downwards. The device didn't beep. The only thing out of place here is that I was able to remove the evaporator water drain and shine a UV light into it. There are no traces of dye to be found. I'm not sure why. I would assume the dye would be present if the evaporator was leaking refrigerant. Maybe it's long gone? Despite this last point, I conclude that the evidence is strong enough that the noise is most likely caused by the refrigerant leaking from the evaporator core. The dashboard needs to be removed. Damned
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| 240690 (540hp) | Optional, not standard. Mine is very well equipped and luckily the LEDs were added. I love her.
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| zeppelin1 (13hp) | I'm sorry to hear this, but I guess at least you know what you're dealing with now. Sounds like severe pain.
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| mazsola (780hp) | Yes, I just need to get organized. I picked this up the other day. [IMG]View post on imgur.com[/IMG] They gave me the entire evaporator and heater core for $80
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| 2907 (365hp) | Here is a picture of the evaporator location on f10 in case someone wants to clean it with a sprayer. it is possible. Apply vacuum to the evaporator and leave it overnight.
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| moneyy1 (207hp) | Great article. You have another follower. Good luck with the vaporizer (I heard about the pain). Have you come across something that shows poor BMW design and needs to be changed (e.g. the fenders)?)?
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| pinkpink1 (537hp) | Quote: Originally written by Capmoq Great article. You have another follower. Good luck with the vaporizer (I heard about the pain). Have you come across anything that exhibits poor BMW design and needs to be changed (e.g. the fenders)? Thanks! I think that increased engine vibration on diesel could potentially cause the evaporator to fail. Once the evaporator has failed, I will know for sure whether the leak is from a pipe connection or the fins themselves. The FRM problem is very common. 1 Series has electrical failures due to water getting into the parking sensors. (same sensors as f10) Insulating and waterproofing the entire front and back of the car is not a bad idea at all. Home Depot has a liquid electrical tape that is proven to work best. They also have a spray version of this (instead of a brush) but not sure how well it works. The flex seal is not the ideal insulator. as it can eat away at the cables over time. I would definitely waterproof everything right away if the bumper ever came loose. The new evaporator will hold the vacuum for a day or two, but no longer. That doesn't mean it's leaking. Apparently contaminants can cause a system to lose vacuum. I will repeat the test but first apply vacuum for 30 minutes.
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| canarias (106hp) | I got tired of applying a vacuum to the evaporator and wasn't getting clear results. So I filled it with 134a and it started leaking audibly. I unplugged the AC line connector from my 335d and hit it with a hammer to create a seal. I tried welding the aluminum with a blue plumber's torch, but the solder didn't melt enough. Finally, I resorted to JB welding on the seam. It may need to be coated several more times. but I'm confident it will hold at some point. I am very hesitant to install the evaporator without testing it first. I also replaced the glow plug module as the car vibrates when idling. that might or might not be normal. I also ordered the M5 stabilizer bar and new handlebars. As the car makes a single clicking sound when turning the steering wheel and reversing or forwarding. The Guibo joint would not be excluded, as this is also known to fail and cause vibrations.
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| ellabella (970hp) | Continuous progress
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| spider99 (684hp) | Quote: Originally written by lsturbointeg. Progress continues. Yes!! Today I installed the M5 front sway bar. I had to struggle a bit to get the bushings to line up, but the job is done. The steering is slightly improved. It wouldn't have been as much as I was sold. We'll see that we didn't push the car enough. It turned out that both bushings on the front wishbone were cracked and hydro fluid was also leaking from the passenger side. Since I feel strong vibrations when idling, they need to be replaced. I ordered the part from FCP Euro for $20 each. Haven't tested the evaporator yet, I thought the air conditioning can wait in this hellish weather. but the stabilizer should be installed. Priorities in the right order.
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| coastal1 (721hp) | How is it driving now???
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| 23041983 (211hp) | Quote: Originally written by philipm785 How is it driving now? When cornering, the inclination of the hood is lower. It definitely stays level. I have a non-adaptive sports suspension. with 19-inch rims and run-flat tires. (stock size). I'm assuming the rolling motion I'm getting has more to do with the tires than anything else. Not a bad upgrade at about $130 per bar and $80 for 2 new links. It would have been nice to get the M5 sway bar from the competition package, but none were available at junkyards. For me it was a must to upgrade as the car was in an accident and I'm not sure if the connections were in good condition.
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| ondra (12hp) | Thank you for sharing your experiences with the upgrade and the replacement part prices. Sounds like a great update that improves dynamics without significantly affecting ride quality.
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| 19841986 (58hp) | Quote: Originally written by philipm785 Thank you for the information about your experiences with the upgrade and the spare part prices. Sounds like a great update that improves dynamics without significantly affecting ride quality. Yes indeed !! I took the car in to have the hood repainted a third time last week because the paint had cracked and was beginning the first stages of peeling. Shop took responsibility, I came back to it today. I always check in the back of my mind if I'm just impossible. To be sure, I even sent the pictures to someone else. The quality of the work is simply unacceptable. Orange peel, deposits stuck to the paint in various places, cracks at the corners and a dent on the top of the hood, the clear coat is peeling off in places. Sometimes stores have high turnover times, misunderstandings and what not. and I try not to be an idiot whenever possible, but I still paid the ultimate price for the job. Where this is a cheap car I would leave it alone, but not on a car like this. So I wasted my trip today and they won't touch the car until I come back tomorrow and tell them exactly what needs to be fixed. By the way, check out my new spoiler and diffuser!! looks great...while the car is parked in the workshop.
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| tigger89 (703hp) | Got the car back. Hood looks good. When I discovered this, I started changing the oil. Gearbox bearing is gone. Possible cause of my cold idle vibrations. I ordered a new Febi from RM European for $38 shipped. Part number 22326777390 FCP Euro does not currently carry this.
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| princess92 (66hp) | I changed the transmission oil today. Lots of metal shavings in the filter magnets. The oil looked like water... Tried to replace the front control arm links but it wasn't possible because the instructions for my car were wrong. I didn't expect that I would have to remove the tires. My wheel lock nut broke off so I take it to Discount Tire and have them take care of it. I suspect they have lug nut extractors.
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| mango2 (322hp) | Geart job. I also had a rough idle when the engine was cold and the same problem. Engine mounts were replaced and everything is fine. I also changed my tranny fluid. However, it wasn't an OEM fluid - something else, I don't know the manufacturer. At the moment (about 10,000 km later) I have a problem with the gearbox. When I drive away (car on Sport+ and transmission in Sport mode), the gear changes are very rough (especially from second to third gear). It almost feels like the car is jumping when changing gears. After the discovery I did full software updates and nothing changed. I suspect the fluid has something to do with it (nothing else has changed). In addition, the car shifts restlessly in Comfort+ mode for a few days after the market launch. After that the roughness disappears. The transmission always adapts to different driving styles and conditions.
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| vegeta11 (571hp) | Back to the electronic problems. The headlight malfunction warning came again yesterday while driving in the rain. If 2 + 2 still equals 4, water got into the headlight and burned the shit out of the module. Luckily today I removed the module behind the wheel arch cover and it is dry but everything else in it is wet. It turned out that the driver's wheel well had a crack from the accident. I temporarily hot glued it, but it fell apart. This essentially involves pouring water over the entire back of the headlight. After some drying for about an hour, ISTA still reports a LIN bus malfunction. Check connectivity between FRM and STML and STMR. I also see 12V to the STML on the power side, so the only fault is the LIN bus cable from STML to the FRM connector. There is one to the headlight that I couldn't reach with the silicone last time, it was with it for just as long Water covers like all other cables and connections in this area. Here you can find the error cause analysis. 1. Crack in the driver's wheel arch, allowing water to enter. 2. One or more terminals shorted. 3. Since both headlight modules show no communication error, it can be assumed that the FRM is defective again. Remedy: 1 new fender on the way, 2 spray all cables with Flex Seal, it is a rubbery spray compound that seals something after several coats. 3. Get a new frm module. Additional Thoughts: The reason the headlights fog up from the factory on every F10 is because the poorly designed wheel arch cover allows water to enter the bumper area, which eventually evaporates and is absorbed into the headlight via the rear vents. I'll find a way to reinforce the wheel arch cover. Maybe spray the bottom with a flexible sealant until it's waterproof.
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| curry1 (303hp) | My assumption was correct that the FRM burned out a second time. After installing a new unit it's back to normal, I also installed the Chinese fender and put a flexible seal behind the bumper on all the cables that run behind it. Old crack on the fender. Now I found out that the AC refrigerant isn't holding, so I put in a can of AC-Pro gasket and the Blue Angels leak gasket. There is no dye visible anywhere on the front of the engine. Also, I breathe in refrigerant while driving, so I'm 90% sure the evaporator is leaking. The repair takes approximately 16 hours of work + the part. so about 2,000 or 3,000. The dashboard needs to be removed and that is a damn difficult task. I'm not sure where to go from here. There is an ESC warranty extension for the car. which may be transferable to me after the car is sold at auction. I'll call BMW on Monday to find out if it's not covered. I'll look for a way to mount the evaporator through the passenger footwell. Records show the evaporator was replaced under warranty at 20,000 and now needs to be replaced again at 92,000. This is not uncommon not only with the F10 series, but also with the 1 series. It appears that the part was replaced 64119383678 Evaporator From: 01/11/2015To:-Weight: 1,620 kgPrice: Replaces: 64119163331 (01/11/2008 - 18/05/2016), Subsequently replaceable64119237501 (October 1, 2010 – October 13, 2011) This is the information about the ESC PL extended warranty
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| adithya (942hp) | Well, my local BMW SA can't find any warranty on the car. I would have to call BMW NA and find a way to reinstate the 100,000 mile ESC warranty. I know if the car was ever part of an auction or dealer it would void the warranty, but I'm not sure BMW knows that.
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| 10061978 (783hp) | There is no extended warranty for the car; the previous owner canceled the policy in writing. I changed a Shrader valve but the refrigerant loss continues. it's about 1 pound per 24 hours. Today I injected Red Angels 2 oz Fluid Seal. with another pound of refrigerant. Let it idle for 20 minutes with the A/C on maximum. This was the last option, there is no dye to be seen anywhere and I have already tried 2 other different sealers. It all points to the evaporator. To be sure, I need to confirm that there is a refrigerant leak coming from the vents. I bought an electric scanner for $20 on Amazon. should be here in a week. In the meantime, I installed the Stanadyne FM100 2 micron fuel filter with water separator tray. The stock 1/4 inch fuel line fits right in. I will tackle this project one day when I can take the time to prepare the system with ISTA.
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| nikky1 (650hp) | The “no air conditioning” condition has become a significant problem. The system now loses 1 pound of R134a in less than 15 hours. I've injected dangerous amounts of dye before, both individually and as part of the three sealing systems I've tried. I can't see any evidence of an accident anywhere in the car. Granted, I didn't go under the car to check the leaks under the car. Although there is a possibility that the AC compressor has a very difficult to detect leak behind the pulley. I think that is highly unlikely. Using the $15 sniffer pictured above turned out to be a waste of time. On my x5 it beeps when cold air blows on it. There is also the possibility that the refrigerant is getting into the driver's vents through a leak in the engine compartment. The possible approaches, in order of least effort/cost, are: 1. Purchase an ultrasonic device that can hear the ultrasonic turbulence caused by the leak. The leak is huge, so it should be discovered here. but if it is too deep under the dashboard it may not work. Fortunately, the noise can be created by creating a vacuum or by inserting a $4, 1-pound can of 134a from Home Depot. Nitrogen can also be used and should produce a louder ultrasound because the molecules are thinner. 2. Buy a more powerful UV LED light that may deliver the dye better than my pen's UV light. The dyes were both UV and red colors so I'm not sure if this is of any use. 3. Pressurize the entire system with nitrogen as described above. Except that the BMW manual ONLY requires pressurizing the evaporator. Since I don't have the evaporator pressure adapter (and don't know where to buy it), I would have to build an adapter myself that can handle 120 psi or pressurize the entire system. I'm not sure if that's safe. I'm not sure what the cost will be for a small 10lb can of nitrogen + the necessary adapters. It would be at least $200. No guarantee. I can hear it. 4. With the vehicle completely cold, introduce refrigerant and use a thermal camera to see if the gas cools the surrounding areas. This would only work if the leak was at the compressor shaft seal or somewhere under the hood. My main suspect is the evaporator. The strange smells that arise from this could be a clue. But even if there is no refrigerant left, there is a smell. This means that mold or something else is probably causing the smell. BMW quotes $350 just to run dye through the system. Things go uphill from there. No, they don't just put pressure on my evaporator. They have their procedures. But I'm looking at $1,000 just to make a diagnosis. Replacing the evaporator would take 16 hours plus replacement parts if necessary. The dash won't come off unless I'm 100% sure the evaporator is bad. And the ultrasound machine seems to be my best option at the moment. I went with the Inficon Whisper via Amazon. If it is of no use, I can always return it.
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| kucing123 (79hp) | Nice build, it's come a long way! Good luck with everything, man!
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| dwykstra (676hp) | Quote: Originally written by BurrNinja. Nice build, it's come a long way! Good luck with everything, man! Thank you very much!! I got a new toy today. Did a few tests on the stove to get an idea of what gas and an open faucet sound like. Leaks sound like wind through the ultrasonic detector. Perfect. First, I inspected the car thoroughly with the microphone to get used to the noise. (There is a beep from the ignition.) Then I put a can or 134a in it (also found a leak in the hoses and listened to it with the ultrasonic, it sounds very, very loud like air turbulence.) With the car turned off, both Shredder scanned valves. the front condenser around the compressor wheel and the evaporator. Yes, there is a characteristic noise coming from the evaporator. I went a step further and removed the passenger airbag and cabin filter housing. The noise becomes louder, the noise depends largely on the location of the evaporator. The noise decreases in intensity when the car is stationary with the engine off. After about 3 minutes the sound fades almost completely. I assume that the amount of refrigerant in the evaporator will decrease if the compressor doesn't continually pump in more refrigerant when there are leaks. The evaporator has been known to hiss and make strange noises when the refrigerant is low, which left me a little tired. I need to be 100% sure there is a leak there. I turned the car on and off a few times with and without the fan running. I also heard the sound of 134a escaping from a vent again and it can be heard very clearly. I also placed the microphone near the expansion valve, no sound can be heard from the engine compartment. Then I tried using the cheap refrigerant sniffer from Amazon on the water drain hose as the refrigerant travels downwards. The device didn't beep. The only thing out of place here is that I was able to remove the evaporator water drain and shine a UV light into it. There are no traces of dye to be found. I'm not sure why. I would assume the dye would be present if the evaporator was leaking refrigerant. Maybe it's long gone? Despite this last point, I conclude that the evidence is strong enough that the noise is most likely caused by the refrigerant leaking from the evaporator core. The dashboard needs to be removed. Damned
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| blessed01 (473hp) | I'm sorry to hear this, but I guess at least you know what you're dealing with now. Sounds like severe pain.
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| mckayla (408hp) | Yes, I just need to get organized. I picked this up the other day. [IMG]View post on imgur.com[/IMG] They gave me the entire evaporator and heater core for $80
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| perez123 (930hp) | Here is a picture of the evaporator location on f10 in case someone wants to clean it with a sprayer. it is possible. Apply vacuum to the evaporator and leave it overnight.
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| smellycat (265hp) | Great article. You have another follower. Good luck with the vaporizer (I heard about the pain). Have you come across something that shows poor BMW design and needs to be changed (e.g. the fenders)?)?
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| heygirl (422hp) | Quote: Originally written by Capmoq Great article. You have another follower. Good luck with the vaporizer (I heard about the pain). Have you come across anything that exhibits poor BMW design and needs to be changed (e.g. the fenders)? Thanks! I think that increased engine vibration on diesel could potentially cause the evaporator to fail. Once the evaporator has failed, I will know for sure whether the leak is from a pipe connection or the fins themselves. The FRM problem is very common. 1 Series has electrical failures due to water getting into the parking sensors. (same sensors as f10) Insulating and waterproofing the entire front and back of the car is not a bad idea at all. Home Depot has a liquid electrical tape that is proven to work best. They also have a spray version of this (instead of a brush) but not sure how well it works. The flex seal is not the ideal insulator. as it can eat away at the cables over time. I would definitely waterproof everything right away if the bumper ever came loose. The new evaporator will hold the vacuum for a day or two, but no longer. That doesn't mean it's leaking. Apparently contaminants can cause a system to lose vacuum. I will repeat the test but first apply vacuum for 30 minutes.
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| afasabhg (170hp) | I got tired of applying a vacuum to the evaporator and wasn't getting clear results. So I filled it with 134a and it started leaking audibly. I unplugged the AC line connector from my 335d and hit it with a hammer to create a seal. I tried welding the aluminum with a blue plumber's torch, but the solder didn't melt enough. Finally, I resorted to JB welding on the seam. It may need to be coated several more times. but I'm confident it will hold at some point. I am very hesitant to install the evaporator without testing it first. I also replaced the glow plug module as the car vibrates when idling. that might or might not be normal. I also ordered the M5 stabilizer bar and new handlebars. As the car makes a single clicking sound when turning the steering wheel and reversing or forwarding. The Guibo joint would not be excluded, as this is also known to fail and cause vibrations.
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| angel999 (805hp) | Continuous progress
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| allahuakba (608hp) | Quote: Originally written by lsturbointeg. Progress continues. Yes!! Today I installed the M5 front sway bar. I had to struggle a bit to get the bushings to line up, but the job is done. The steering is slightly improved. It wouldn't have been as much as I was sold. We'll see that we didn't push the car enough. It turned out that both bushings on the front wishbone were cracked and hydro fluid was also leaking from the passenger side. Since I feel strong vibrations when idling, they need to be replaced. I ordered the part from FCP Euro for $20 each. Haven't tested the evaporator yet, I thought the air conditioning can wait in this hellish weather. but the stabilizer should be installed. Priorities in the right order.
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| adriane (512hp) | How is it driving now???
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| 87878787 (926hp) | Quote: Originally written by philipm785 How is it driving now? When cornering, the inclination of the hood is lower. It definitely stays level. I have a non-adaptive sports suspension. with 19-inch rims and run-flat tires. (stock size). I'm assuming the rolling motion I'm getting has more to do with the tires than anything else. Not a bad upgrade at about $130 per bar and $80 for 2 new links. It would have been nice to get the M5 sway bar from the competition package, but none were available at junkyards. For me it was a must to upgrade as the car was in an accident and I'm not sure if the connections were in good condition.
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| 040791 (572hp) | Thank you for sharing your experiences with the upgrade and the replacement part prices. Sounds like a great update that improves dynamics without significantly affecting ride quality.
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| inlove08 (495hp) | Quote: Originally written by philipm785 Thank you for the information about your experiences with the upgrade and the spare part prices. Sounds like a great update that improves dynamics without significantly affecting ride quality. Yes indeed !! I took the car in to have the hood repainted a third time last week because the paint had cracked and was beginning the first stages of peeling. Shop took responsibility, I came back to it today. I always check in the back of my mind if I'm just impossible. To be sure, I even sent the pictures to someone else. The quality of the work is simply unacceptable. Orange peel, deposits stuck to the paint in various places, cracks at the corners and a dent on the top of the hood, the clear coat is peeling off in places. Sometimes stores have high turnover times, misunderstandings and what not. and I try not to be an idiot whenever possible, but I still paid the ultimate price for the job. Where this is a cheap car I would leave it alone, but not on a car like this. So I wasted my trip today and they won't touch the car until I come back tomorrow and tell them exactly what needs to be fixed. By the way, check out my new spoiler and diffuser!! looks great...while the car is parked in the workshop.
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| loco69 (796hp) | Got the car back. Hood looks good. When I discovered this, I started changing the oil. Gearbox bearing is gone. Possible cause of my cold idle vibrations. I ordered a new Febi from RM European for $38 shipped. Part number 22326777390 FCP Euro does not currently carry this.
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| alaska11 (510hp) | I changed the transmission oil today. Lots of metal shavings in the filter magnets. The oil looked like water... Tried to replace the front control arm links but it wasn't possible because the instructions for my car were wrong. I didn't expect that I would have to remove the tires. My wheel lock nut broke off so I take it to Discount Tire and have them take care of it. I suspect they have lug nut extractors.
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| 69 (505hp) | Geart job. I also had a rough idle when the engine was cold and the same problem. Engine mounts were replaced and everything is fine. I also changed my tranny fluid. However, it wasn't an OEM fluid - something else, I don't know the manufacturer. At the moment (about 10,000 km later) I have a problem with the gearbox. When I drive away (car on Sport+ and transmission in Sport mode), the gear changes are very rough (especially from second to third gear). It almost feels like the car is jumping when changing gears. After the discovery I did full software updates and nothing changed. I suspect the fluid has something to do with it (nothing else has changed). In addition, the car shifts restlessly in Comfort+ mode for a few days after the market launch. After that the roughness disappears. The transmission always adapts to different driving styles and conditions.
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| aaaaa11111 (806hp) | Has anyone come across the collared Torx screw that holds the hanger on the intake side of the muffler? https://www.ecstuning.com/b-genuine-...l/18307591467/ Searches with 18307591467 on BMW parts sites deliver a bracket, same part number on ECS or Turner returns the screw. I hope one of the BMW dealers can identify the part number if my P/N is incorrect. If I'm lucky, I'll order from ECS or Turner and get the mount. Yes, I posted the same thread in tech too...looks like more traffic here. Due to a variety of issues after a simple rear bumper repair, I'm a little impatient. I would post the story for entertainment if I thought I wouldn't throw the keyboard across the room.
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| 04061981 (523hp) | 18307591467 is the correct part number.
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| westside4 (879hp) | Quote: Originally posted by Unspec 18307591467 is the correct part number. Thank you, this is the first time I've actually seen it with the correct picture. Your P/N returned this result when searching: https://www.bmwpartsdeal.com/parts/b...tra2=&filter=()
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| gavgav (681hp) | Quote: Originally posted by jmmdm2 Thank you, this is the first time I've actually seen it with the correct picture. Your P/N returned this result when searching: https://www.bmwpartsdeal.com/parts/b...tra2=&filter=() The ECS tuning link you provided is the correct article.
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| 250482 (224hp) | Has anyone come across the collared Torx screw that holds the hanger on the intake side of the muffler? https://www.ecstuning.com/b-genuine-...l/18307591467/ Searches with 18307591467 on BMW parts sites deliver a bracket, same part number on ECS or Turner returns the screw. I hope one of the BMW dealers can identify the part number if my P/N is incorrect. If I'm lucky, I'll order from ECS or Turner and get the mount. Yes, I posted the same thread in tech too...looks like more traffic here. Due to a variety of issues after a simple rear bumper repair, I'm a little impatient. I would post the story for entertainment if I thought I wouldn't throw the keyboard across the room.
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| simone11 (372hp) | 18307591467 is the correct part number.
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| ace (888hp) | Quote: Originally posted by Unspec 18307591467 is the correct part number. Thank you, this is the first time I've actually seen it with the correct picture. Your P/N returned this result when searching: https://www.bmwpartsdeal.com/parts/b...tra2=&filter=()
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| sanguine (477hp) | Quote: Originally posted by jmmdm2 Thank you, this is the first time I've actually seen it with the correct picture. Your P/N returned this result when searching: https://www.bmwpartsdeal.com/parts/b...tra2=&filter=() The ECS tuning link you provided is the correct article.
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| 2143658709 (129hp) | Hi everyone, I've been looking around for a while but haven't managed to find decent front lips/rear diffusers for the non-M Sport trim of my 535. If anyone was in the same boat but found a few decent ones, would you mind linking some? This is my first post on the forum and I'm looking forward to spending a few evenings here!
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| paparoach1 (689hp) | This is probably the best place to get inspiration/photos: https://f10.5post.com/forums/showthread.php?t=759062 Then just google the name and you will find it easily.
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| myspace44 (327hp) | Hi everyone, I've been looking around for a while but haven't managed to find decent front lips/rear diffusers for the non-M Sport trim of my 535. If anyone was in the same boat but found a few decent ones, would you mind linking some? This is my first post on the forum and I'm looking forward to spending a few evenings here!
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| hotbaby1 (619hp) | This is probably the best place to get inspiration/photos: https://f10.5post.com/forums/showthread.php?t=759062 Then just google the name and you will find it easily.
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| Melissa1 (428hp) | Hi guys, N63tu engine and ripped the left side of my crankcase ventilation line to install an N63 intake. I ordered a copy of ECS, but it doesn't fit (different plug sizes). I just noticed that they appear to be non-TU engines. Does anyone have a link or part number for the passenger side vent line? BMW of Ramsey quoted me $543 for the entire set !
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| godislove7 (80hp) | Check out realoem.com
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| 311296 (523hp) | Thanks man! That was easy !
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| jakey (629hp) | Hi guys, N63tu engine and ripped the left side of my crankcase ventilation line to install an N63 intake. I ordered a copy of ECS, but it doesn't fit (different plug sizes). I just noticed that they appear to be non-TU engines. Does anyone have a link or part number for the passenger side vent line? BMW of Ramsey quoted me $543 for the entire set !
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| change2 (203hp) | Check out realoem.com
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| heroine (586hp) | Thanks man! That was easy !
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| vedder (474hp) | I had an issue a while back where I found that there wasn't enough coolant/water in the oil to make the oil milky, just the gunk on the cap, and I did a complete system flush, the OFHGs, expansion tank and replaced the cover because (coolant was leaking from the oil). cover) to remove a head gasket. I ran the car for 500km and changed the oil again but no water in the oil!! So I had a pressure test done and it passed with flying colors, holding 15 psi for 30 minutes while the car was idling and stopped, so I ruled out a head gasket again. Then I was still littered with disappearing coolant expansion tanks and components nearby but too many to pinpoint so I'll check after every ride I do but where else should I look? I want to do a block tester to see if there are exhaust gases in the coolant (Doesn't smell like there's anything to buy, hey!?! Why not try?) Should I go ahead with a block tester and a compression test even though I have the The cooling system pressure test was passed??
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| 151278 (832hp) | I had an issue a while back where I found that there wasn't enough coolant/water in the oil to make the oil milky, just the gunk on the cap, and I did a complete system flush, the OFHGs, expansion tank and replaced the cover because (coolant was leaking from the oil). cover) to remove a head gasket. I ran the car for 500km and changed the oil again but no water in the oil!! So I had a pressure test done and it passed with flying colors, holding 15 psi for 30 minutes while the car was idling and stopped, so I ruled out a head gasket again. Then I was still littered with disappearing coolant expansion tanks and components nearby but too many to pinpoint so I'll check after every ride but where else should I look? I want to do a block tester to see if there are exhaust gases in the coolant (Doesn't smell like there's anything to buy, hey!?! Why not try?) Should I go ahead with a block tester and a compression test even though I have the The cooling system pressure test was passed??
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| mckayla1 (406hp) | Hi friends, 2012 535ix (automatic) with knocking/jerking issues at about 8 mph and again at about 21 mph (slightly less), then completely fine at higher speeds. It started at about 125,000 miles. Currently at 130,000. When the problem first occurred, the transmission fluid, oil pan and filter were replaced, but it didn't help. It wasn't that bad back then, so I ignored it. Gradually it seems to be getting worse and now it bothers me so much that I can't just ignore it anymore. I tried resetting the driver memory as described here. The problem doesn't go away completely, but it seems to help a lot, but only temporarily. Switching to Sport mode makes the rattling/jerking even worse. Will flashing it help? Individual tuning? Should I contact the dealer for an engine-transmission software update? (Never done a software update before) Does this solve the problem? Please advise, thank you!
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| 150889 (518hp) | Have you checked the transmission mounts???
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| abby22 (78hp) | if it's the tranny internals. You can check clutch inflation pressure (show wear) via ISTA-D, XHP and some other apps. My tranny doesn't handle downshifting to lower gears very well. There are 5 clutches for the 8-speed: I read somewhere: good performance <.180 mBar, ok <.300 mBar, only operational is <.750 mBar (XHP recommends). The flashing may help a little, but in the end it can't fix the wear (it's too late for me to change the transmission fluid). So you need to rebuild your valve body or make other repairs.
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| ///M1 (222hp) | I went to the dealer and asked for an update to the engine and transmission software. They did something called the 1.5 program (that's all it says on the service sheet). Unfortunately, this 1.5 program did not fix the rattling/jerking. Inspections and recommendations indicate that I need to replace the drivetrain flex washer and change the transfer case oil. I keep getting a powertrain malfunction warning saying "drive moderately with maximum power unavailable", which I've never had before the update. The car won't go faster than 20mph in this case, but it goes away when I restart the car. However, the warning keeps coming... I'm hoping replacing the flex washer and changing the oil as the dealer recommended will fix any problems....
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| regiment (14hp) | Quote: Originally posted by mashpotato if it's due to the tranny internals. You can check clutch inflation pressure (show wear) via ISTA-D, XHP and some other apps. My tranny doesn't handle downshifting to lower gears very well. There are 5 clutches for the 8-speed: I read somewhere: good performance <.180 mBar, ok <.300 mBar, only operational is <.750 mBar (XHP recommends). The flashing may help a little, but in the end it can't fix the wear (it's too late for me to change the transmission fluid). So you need to rebuild your valve body or make other repairs. Thank you, I'll have that checked
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| oioioi1 (651hp) | Quote: Originally posted by Trainwreck914 Have you checked the transmission mounts? Gearbox assembly no problem
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| 400007 (642hp) | Bad engine mounts, bad transmission mounts, driveshaft issues? These are just a few of the things that can cause vibration
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| xfactor (986hp) | Replacing the Vanos solenoid valves fixed my juddering etc
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| brandon08 (984hp) | Hi friends, 2012 535ix (automatic) with knocking/jerking issues at about 8 mph and again at about 21 mph (slightly less), then completely fine at higher speeds. It started at about 125,000 miles. Currently at 130,000. When the problem first occurred, the transmission fluid, oil pan and filter were replaced, but it didn't help. It wasn't that bad back then, so I ignored it. Gradually it seems to be getting worse and now it bothers me so much that I can't just ignore it anymore. I tried resetting the driver memory as described here. The problem doesn't go away completely, but it seems to help a lot, but only temporarily. Switching to Sport mode makes the rattling/jerking even worse. Will flashing it help? Individual tuning? Should I contact the dealer for an engine-transmission software update? (Never done a software update before) Does this solve the problem? Please advise, thank you!
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| luana (146hp) | Have you checked the transmission mounts???
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| 19021981 (166hp) | if it's the tranny internals. You can check clutch inflation pressure (show wear) via ISTA-D, XHP and some other apps. My tranny doesn't handle downshifting to lower gears very well. There are 5 clutches for the 8-speed: I read somewhere: good performance <.180 mBar, ok <.300 mBar, only operational is <.750 mBar (XHP recommends). The flashing may help a little, but in the end it can't fix the wear (it's too late for me to change the transmission fluid). So you need to rebuild your valve body or make other repairs.
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| vanpersie (102hp) | I went to the dealer and asked for an update to the engine and transmission software. They did something called the 1.5 program (that's all it says on the service sheet). Unfortunately, this 1.5 program did not fix the rattling/jerking. Inspections and recommendations indicate that I need to replace the drivetrain flex washer and change the transfer case oil. I keep getting a powertrain malfunction warning saying "drive moderately with maximum power unavailable", which I've never had before the update. The car won't go faster than 20mph in this case, but it goes away when I restart the car. However, the warning keeps coming. I hope replacing the flex washer and changing the oil as the dealer recommended will resolve any issues....
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| 123456love (304hp) | Quote: Originally posted by mashpotato if it's due to the tranny internals. You can check clutch inflation pressure (show wear) via ISTA-D, XHP and some other apps. My tranny doesn't handle downshifting to lower gears very well. There are 5 clutches for the 8-speed: I read somewhere: good performance <.180 mBar, ok <.300 mBar, only operational is <.750 mBar (XHP recommends). The flashing may help a little, but in the end it can't fix the wear (it's too late for me to change the transmission fluid). So you need to rebuild your valve body or make other repairs. Thank you, I'll have that checked
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| mexic0 (153hp) | Quote: Originally posted by Trainwreck914 Have you checked the transmission mounts? Gearbox assembly no problem
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| 251280 (243hp) | Bad engine mounts, bad transmission mounts, driveshaft issues? These are just a few of the things that can cause vibration
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| kl123456 (56hp) | Replacing the Vanos solenoid valves fixed my juddering etc
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| dgolf (46hp) | Just an update, been busy for about a week! 2016 550i 4.4 Twin Turbo 30 minutes in a pond -----
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| habitat (638hp) | Just an update, been busy for about a week! 2016 550i 4.4 Twin Turbo 30 minutes in a pond -----
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| lisa14 (119hp) | Quote: Originally written by Capmoq Geart Job. I also had a rough idle when the engine was cold and the same problem. Engine mounts were replaced and everything is fine. I also changed my tranny fluid. However, it wasn't an OEM fluid - something else, I don't know the manufacturer. At the moment (about 10,000 km later) I have a problem with the gearbox. When I drive away (car on Sport+ and transmission in Sport mode), the gear changes are very rough (especially from second to third gear). It almost feels like the car is jumping when changing gears. After the discovery I did full software updates and nothing changed. I suspect the fluid has something to do with it (nothing else has changed). In addition, the car shifts restlessly in Comfort+ mode for a few days after the market launch. After that the roughness disappears. The transmission always adapts to different driving styles and conditions. Quote: Originally written by Capmoq Geart Job. I also had a rough idle when the engine was cold and the same problem. Engine mounts were replaced and everything is fine. I also changed my tranny fluid. However, it wasn't an OEM fluid - something else, I don't know the manufacturer. At the moment (about 10,000 km later) I have a problem with the gearbox. When I drive away (car on Sport+ and transmission in Sport mode), the gear changes are very rough (especially from second to third gear). It almost feels like the car is jumping when changing gears. After the discovery I did full software updates and nothing changed. I suspect the fluid has something to do with it (nothing else has changed). In addition, the car shifts restlessly in Comfort+ mode for a few days after the market launch. After that the roughness disappears. The transmission always adapts to different driving styles and conditions. I'm sorry to hear about the trans issues. This was the problem with changing fluids outside the 60km window. It seems like some people don't have problems, but others unfortunately do. I think the right way would be to wait to change the transmission fluid until problems arise if you missed that window.
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| daddad (630hp) | Quote: Originally posted by DarkgraphiteNYC Sorry to hear about the trans issues. This was the problem with changing fluids outside the 60km window. It seems like some people don't have problems, but others unfortunately do. I think the right way would be to wait to change the transmission fluid until problems arise if you missed that window. If you wait, the transgender could be toast. I (well, my dealer) didn't change the fluid on our 2012 until about 75,000 miles and it shifts fine.
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| algebra2 (939hp) | I haven't read of any cases where the tranny left because the fluid was changed too late. Quote: Originally written by Capmoq Geart job. I also had a rough idle when the engine was cold and the same problem. Engine mounts were replaced and everything is fine. I also changed my tranny fluid. However, it wasn't an OEM fluid - something else, I don't know the manufacturer. At the moment (about 10,000 km later) I have a problem with the gearbox. When I drive away (car on Sport+ and transmission in Sport mode), the gear changes are very rough (especially from second to third gear). It almost feels like the car is jumping when changing gears. After the discovery I did full software updates and nothing changed. I suspect the fluid has something to do with it (nothing else has changed). In addition, the car shifts restlessly in Comfort+ mode for a few days after the market launch. After that the roughness disappears. The transmission always adapts to different driving styles and conditions. I'm glad the engine mounts solved your problem. Reading your comment initially makes me feel more confident. Any idea if the mounts can be removed without removing the engine support arm? On my X5 they don't come out until the arm is removed. I will raise the engine from below using a jack and a block of wood.
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| 0124 (693hp) | The project looks great. I'm also in Chicago and will be training my pull/push arms in the next few weeks. I already changed an axle a month ago and did the following: Remove the wheel center cover, install the wheel and then loosen the axle bolt through the wheel. Did the same to do the final tightening. Individual technique, lol. I don't like fiddling with the brake discs with a screwdriver. The video is great as I wasn't sure if I needed to order new axle bolts or if the ball joint would slip under the CV. Guess what, new axle bolts.
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| 12101975 (864hp) | Quote: Originally posted by BrandBMW Project looks great. I'm also in Chicago and will be training my pull/push arms in the next few weeks. I already changed an axle a month ago and did the following: Remove the wheel center cover, install the wheel and then loosen the axle bolt through the wheel. Did the same to do the final tightening. Individual technique, lol. I don't like fiddling with the brake discs with a screwdriver. The video is great as I wasn't sure if I needed to order new axle bolts or if the ball joint would slip under the CV. Guess what, new axle bolts. Where in Chicago? Actually, I'm up near Glenview in the suburbs. If it's advantageous, we could team up and take out both cars.
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| 03101995 (882hp) | Send me a PM and maybe we could document our process and impressions of different tension strut/compression arm setups. I'm north of Chicago. I've built thrust arms on E34 (x6), E31 (x3), E39 (x2) and wishbones on BMWs, Volvos, Hondas, etc., but based on this thread you're mechanically savvy too. I plan to buy new Lemforder arms, press out the bushings and replace them with Powerflex road poly bushings. Just a note: I have seen the quality of the Lemforder rubber deteriorate and it is not what it was years ago. I've used the purple Powerflex street durometer bushings with great success on other cars and they don't fit the old idea of the track version of poly bushings. Poly provides a more direct pivot point so energy is transferred to the shocks/springs where it needs to go, reducing jerking/flexing when hitting a bump. In my practical experience, the biggest advantage is that the poly bushings are strong and have no recesses or oil-filled areas of the bushing where flexing occurs. The added benefit is that rather than twisting a bushing as the arm moves up or down, the poly bushing rotates efficiently. Some links to Lemforder complaints: BMW E70, lighter (below), original 80,000 mile poor BMW F10 RWD. On a Mercedes, it is the bushing that is causing the noise, not the ball joint, as the owner reported on a forum https://www.impactbumpers.com/. forum/...ky-drop-links/ Porsche Owner Sorry, I don't want to take over your thread and I don't know how to post the YouTube links where a preview doesn't automatically appear.
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| bajs123 (589hp) | Now I'm wondering. I follow the logic of not replacing a failure-prone part with another failure-prone part. My fear with harder bushings is that the diesel might be better off with softer bushings due to the vibrations. And the big problem is that the bushings apparently cost $400 a pair. Unless you found a better price elsewhere. I know about the rubber bushing issues on my old 2003 Z4 (where I used urethane) and currently on my X5. They are simply not pieces that are made to last forever.
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| turtle01 (484hp) | That makes sense with diesel. Original tension/compression bushings are $88 each with free shipping, https://www.fcpeuro.com/products/bmw...ng-31126777653
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| 020791 (287hp) | Quote: Originally written by BrandBMW That makes sense with diesel. Original tension/compression bushings are $88 each with free shipping, https://www.fcpeuro.com/products/bmw...ng-31126777653 I purchased the Lemforder bushings but returned them. People in the Facebook group said it wasn't worth the effort to squeeze in. Someone said that the new bushings sometimes have play. Who knows. Of course it can be done with the right tools, but it's not always a walk in the park. I'm going to focus on replacing the engine mounts first as the steering wheel jumps up and down when idling. ------ Yesterday I reinstalled my EGR blocking plate, apparently I installed it the wrong way and have been driving with a massive exhaust leak for a few weeks. Add some ultra-copper caulk and let it sit for 24 hours. The smell of cabin exhaust seems to have disappeared. I need to set a day when I have time to work on both motor mounts. Both engine mount arms may also need to be loosened.
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| skimmilk20 (572hp) | For the first time I removed the engine cover and realized it didn't look good. To remove the engine mount, the engine mount arm must be removed and the DPF removed. I didn't feel like removing the DPF since it's a PIA to assemble the package, so I dropped the subframe about an inch and the bracket came loose. The BBQ sauce substance leaked and collapsed, forming metal on metal. I ordered the LEFT and RIGHT engine mounts according to the original part numbers. But when you compare the parts, they all look exactly the same. I'm not sure if it's the exact same part or if it was a mistake. My car crawler is broken. Research what is good to buy.
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| eeffler (175hp) | Car drives great with new engine mounts! I can barely tell it's on, even on cold mornings. So that was a success. Found this on the hood after the hood was repainted a few weeks ago. I'm no expert, but I've driven a Bimmer before and never seen the paint chip like this. I called the body shop again and again explained that they were responsible for the damage caused by their work. If a rock hits the car, that's my fault again. Yes, something must have hit the car, but I don't see a crater around the car; The paint should be able to withstand small stones and splinters to some extent and not chip off easily. I'm looking for opinions on what would cause the paint to chip like that, especially after the car was just painted. Not only the hood, but also the side panels and bumper have a lot of chips and the paint seems to be falling off very easily. I'm all for giving people the benefit of the doubt, but the paint job was bullshit from the start.
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| cleopatre (495hp) | I'm sorry it was so awkward. With all the issues you diagnosed and tracked, you would have thought that painting would have been a relatively easy part of the process! If the paint is literally falling off/peeling, you may be able to get further by waiting a week or two until the faulty paintwork is obvious. However, I'm not sure if these guys try again it will produce a result you're happy with. A partial refund and a new shop might be preferable.
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| 27071987 (343hp) | Quote: Originally posted by philipm785 Sorry it was such a hassle. With all the issues you diagnosed and tracked, you would have thought that painting would have been a relatively easy part of the process! If the paint is literally falling off/peeling, you may be able to get further by waiting a week or two until the faulty paintwork is obvious. However, I'm not sure if these guys try again it will produce a result you're happy with. A partial refund and a new shop might be preferable. I agree with you about not giving these guys another chance. There is no paint peeling off the hood anymore, just the bumper around the headlights. I'll give it more time and see what happens. ----- I bought a Chinese cut from Ali Express. Surprisingly, such a simple thing doesn't look so bad. I also got this M6 rear sway bar in the mail today that I purchased for $100. Looks thinner than I expected, but it says 16mm on it. (Original is 14mm) I can't wait to get under the car and install it. Wanted to do an oil change in the transfer case but it looks like it will be more complicated than I expected as the transmission support rod needs to be removed. I'm counting down the days to purchase a custom Magnaflow exhaust from a gentleman on Facebook. and completely delete emissions.
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| lonsdale1 (149hp) | Great updates. I'm sorry I didn't reply sooner. The last month has been a nuisance. Is there a chance you'll be replacing your driveshaft bushings with gearbox bushings soon? I've heard that these are prone to cracking and may need to be replaced as well. Especially the 535D.
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| 310884 (727hp) | Quote: Originally posted by Capmoq Great updates. I'm sorry I didn't reply sooner. The last month has been a nuisance. Is there a chance you'll be replacing your driveshaft bushings with gearbox bushings soon? I've heard that these are prone to cracking and may need to be replaced as well. Especially the 535D. I ordered the tranny jack because I thought mine was torn. After I got the new one I noticed that it looked like they were torn on one side. So the copy I have in my car is in good condition. The bushing press tool costs about $350 and there is no other way to press it. That's why I'm not looking forward to having to do it any time soon. Mu Guibo socket also looks good. I'm curious if there are some models affected by the broken bushings
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| ittybitty (795hp) | Quote: Originally posted by rkstar9 I ordered the tranny jack because I thought mine was torn. After I got the new one I noticed that it looked like they were torn on one side. So the copy I have in my car is in good condition. The bushing press tool costs about $350 and there is no other way to press it. That's why I'm not looking forward to having to do it any time soon. Mu Guibo socket also looks good. I'm curious if there are some models affected by the broken bushings. The same applies here. Will you be changing the chain and high pressure fuel pump soon? These are the most frustrating things F10 owners are currently facing. Watch what happened to Nut Job on YouTube.
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| erast.82 (700hp) | Quote: Originally posted by Capmoq Same here. Will you be changing the chain and high pressure fuel pump soon? These are the most frustrating things F10 owners are currently facing. Watch what happened to Nut Job on YouTube. Changing the chain isn't too labor intensive in my plans and I don't know anyone who knows how to do it. Changing the oil every 5,000 times is all I can do. I think the timing chain problem is not that common. (even more so with the 520d) sounds like a manufacturing defect. The fuel pump is not a difficult job, but a BMW tech said on FB that the fuel pump will fail if it is not properly primed after a filter change. I will follow proper venting procedure. I also have the FM100 2 micron filter to help my pump run cleaner. I also never let the fuel tank go below half way to avoid water buildup.
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| 231178 (913hp) | Quote: Originally posted by rkstar9 Replacing the chain isn't too labor intensive in my plans and I don't know anyone who knows how to do it. Changing the oil every 5,000 times is all I can do. I think the timing chain problem is not that common. (even more so with the 520d) sounds like a manufacturing defect. The fuel pump is not a difficult job, but a BMW tech said on FB that the fuel pump will fail if it is not properly primed after a filter change. I will follow proper venting procedure. I also have the FM100 2 micron filter to help my pump run cleaner. I also never let the fuel tank go below half way to avoid water buildup. There are two ways to do this: 1) Take off the gearbox and some things from the top of the engine: 2) Take off the engine: OEM manual: https://www.newtis.info/tisv2/a /en/ f...shaft/B9JqCDXE Toolkit: https://www.ebay.com/itm/Motor-Einst...EAAOSwfZtbBsnq There are many people who have done it, but I haven't the courage to accept it.
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| br549 (630hp) | Oh man, this guy shows no signs of slowing down. He had a way of making things seem very simple. I'm floored, this shemale is awesome. Also, the sidewall of my 6 month old front right tire cracked while driving over a pothole at night. I really regret not getting 245/45/19. The thicker sidewall is designed to help absorb impact. The motor mount may also be defective. Generally, the OEM M sport rim weighs about 36 pounds. I'm sure it absorbs a lot of road vibrations, but that can't be good for the engine performance of the tires, and MPG wish I could replace them with a lighter set of rims. I'm really thinking about putting my 2019 18's in just because the car doesn't look nearly as good. It looks like Discount Tire is paying for the tire since it was covered under the warranty on all tires.
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| 19051988 (517hp) | Lock nut wrench fell apart
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| 26071983 (124hp) | I just repaired the passenger side front CV trunk after it started spraying grease everywhere. I ended up choosing a split boot from eBay that shipped from the UK for about $35. https://www.ebay.com/itm/UNIVERSAL-S...72.m2749.l2649 During installation the sleeve burst at the end. In the end I filled it with some leftover rubber and glued it in place. Let's see how long it lasts
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| darek (598hp) | Just read the entire build, great job saving this car from disintegration! looks great despite the problematic paint issues. I also have experience with color. If it chips so easily down to raw metal, it's all in the preparation and application. Either the prep wasn't right, or the spraying was too quick and the paint dried more brittle without off-gassing in between and allowing proper bonding to the metal. When will the complete deletion be carried out? Parts are arriving this week for my 14 535d to completely clear it and upgrade the intercooler and transmission tuning. I also did complete fuel/transmission/diff maintenance beforehand. carried out. The car is new to me, so to be on the safe side I change everything and make sure it's right. Happy modding brother!
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| tturbolife (963hp) | Quote: Originally written by Capmoq Geart Job. I also had a rough idle when the engine was cold and the same problem. Engine mounts were replaced and everything is fine. I also changed my tranny fluid. However, it wasn't an OEM fluid - something else, I don't know the manufacturer. At the moment (about 10,000 km later) I have a problem with the gearbox. When I drive away (car on Sport+ and transmission in Sport mode), the gear changes are very rough (especially from second to third gear). It almost feels like the car is jumping when changing gears. After the discovery I did full software updates and nothing changed. I suspect the fluid has something to do with it (nothing else has changed). In addition, the car shifts restlessly in Comfort+ mode for a few days after the market launch. After that the roughness disappears. The transmission always adapts to different driving styles and conditions. Quote: Originally written by Capmoq Geart Job. I also had a rough idle when the engine was cold and the same problem. Engine mounts were replaced and everything is fine. I also changed my tranny fluid. However, it wasn't an OEM fluid - something else, I don't know the manufacturer. At the moment (about 10,000 km later) I have a problem with the gearbox. When I drive away (car on Sport+ and transmission in Sport mode), the gear changes are very rough (especially from second to third gear). It almost feels like the car is jumping when changing gears. After the discovery I did full software updates and nothing changed. I suspect the fluid has something to do with it (nothing else has changed). In addition, the car shifts restlessly in Comfort+ mode for a few days after the market launch. After that the roughness disappears. The transmission always adapts to different driving styles and conditions. I'm sorry to hear about the trans issues. This was the problem with changing fluids outside the 60km window. It seems like some people don't have problems, but others unfortunately do. I think the right way would be to wait to change the transmission fluid until problems arise if you missed that window.
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| zoomzoom1 (644hp) | Quote: Originally posted by DarkgraphiteNYC Sorry to hear about the trans issues. This was the problem with changing fluids outside the 60km window. It seems like some people don't have problems, but others unfortunately do. I think the right way would be to wait to change the transmission fluid until problems arise if you missed that window. If you wait, the transgender could be toast. I (well, my dealer) didn't change the fluid on our 2012 until about 75,000 miles and it shifts fine.
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| uthvfybz (813hp) | I haven't read of any cases where the tranny left because the fluid was changed too late. Quote: Originally written by Capmoq Geart job. I also had a rough idle when the engine was cold and the same problem. Engine mounts were replaced and everything is fine. I also changed my tranny fluid. However, it wasn't an OEM fluid - something else, I don't know the manufacturer. At the moment (about 10,000 km later) I have a problem with the gearbox. When I perform starts (car on Sport+ and transmission in Sport mode), the gear changes are very rough (especially from second to third gear). It almost feels like the car is jumping when changing gears. After the discovery I did full software updates and nothing changed. I suspect the fluid has something to do with it (nothing else has changed). In addition, the car shifts restlessly in Comfort+ mode for a few days after the market launch. After that the roughness disappears. The transmission always adapts to different driving styles and conditions. I'm glad the engine mounts solved your problem. Reading your comment initially makes me feel more confident. Any idea if the mounts can be removed without removing the engine support arm? On my X5 they don't come out until the arm is removed. I will raise the engine from below using a jack and a block of wood.
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| jamila1 (82hp) | The project looks great. I'm also in Chicago and will be training my pull/push arms in the next few weeks. I already changed an axle a month ago and did the following: Remove the wheel center cover, install the wheel and then loosen the axle bolt through the wheel. Did the same to do the final tightening. Individual technique, lol. I don't like fiddling with the brake discs with a screwdriver. The video is great as I wasn't sure if I needed to order new axle bolts or if the ball joint would slip under the CV. Guess what, new axle bolts.
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| darsin (799hp) | Quote: Originally posted by BrandBMW Project looks great. I'm also in Chicago and will be training my pull/push arms in the next few weeks. I already changed an axle a month ago and did the following: Remove the wheel center cover, install the wheel and then loosen the axle bolt through the wheel. Did the same to do the final tightening. Individual technique, lol. I don't like fiddling with the brake discs with a screwdriver. The video is great as I wasn't sure if I needed to order new axle bolts or if the ball joint would slip under the CV. Guess what, new axle bolts. Where in Chicago? Actually, I'm up near Glenview in the suburbs. If it's advantageous, we could team up and take out both cars.
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| 22051994 (187hp) | Send me a PM and maybe we could document our process and impressions of different tension strut/compression arm setups. I'm north of Chicago. I've built thrust arms on E34 (x6), E31 (x3), E39 (x2) and wishbones on BMWs, Volvos, Hondas, etc., but based on this thread you're mechanically savvy too. I plan to buy new Lemforder arms, press out the bushings and replace them with Powerflex road poly bushings. Just a note: I have seen the quality of the Lemforder rubber deteriorate and it is not what it was years ago. I've used the purple Powerflex street durometer bushings with great success on other cars and they don't fit the old idea of the track version of poly bushings. Poly provides a more direct pivot point so energy is transferred to the shocks/springs where it needs to go, reducing jerking/flexing when hitting a bump. In my practical experience, the biggest advantage is that the poly bushings are strong and have no recesses or oil-filled areas of the bushing where flexing occurs. The added benefit is that rather than twisting a bushing as the arm moves up or down, the poly bushing rotates efficiently. Some links to Lemforder complaints: BMW E70, lighter (below), original 80,000 mile poor BMW F10 RWD. On a Mercedes, it is the bushing that is causing the noise, not the ball joint, as the owner reported on a forum https://www.impactbumpers.com/. forum/...ky-drop-links/ Porsche Owner Sorry, I don't want to take over your thread and I don't know how to post the YouTube links where there isn't an automatic preview window.
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| MERLIN (883hp) | Now I'm wondering. I follow the logic of not replacing a failure-prone part with another failure-prone part. My fear with harder bushings is that the diesel might be better off with softer bushings due to the vibrations. And the big problem is that the bushings apparently cost $400 a pair. Unless you found a better price elsewhere. I know about the rubber bushing issues on my old 2003 Z4 (where I used urethane) and currently on my X5. They are simply not pieces that are made to last forever.
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| 190577 (190hp) | That makes sense with diesel. Original tension/compression bushings are $88 each with free shipping, https://www.fcpeuro.com/products/bmw...ng-31126777653
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| filipek (879hp) | Quote: Originally written by BrandBMW That makes sense with diesel. Original tension/compression bushings are $88 each with free shipping, https://www.fcpeuro.com/products/bmw...ng-31126777653 I purchased the Lemforder bushings but returned them. People in the Facebook group said it wasn't worth the effort to squeeze in. Someone said that the new bushings sometimes have play. Who knows. Of course it can be done with the right tools, but it's not always a walk in the park. I'm going to focus on replacing the engine mounts first as the steering wheel jumps up and down when idling. ------ Yesterday I reinstalled my EGR blocking plate, apparently I installed it the wrong way and have been driving with a massive exhaust leak for a few weeks. Add some ultra-copper caulk and let it sit for 24 hours. The smell of cabin exhaust seems to have disappeared. I need to set a day when I have time to work on both motor mounts. Both engine mount arms may also need to be loosened.
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| chicco1 (696hp) | For the first time I removed the engine cover and realized it didn't look good. To remove the engine mount, the engine mount arm must be removed and the DPF removed. I didn't feel like removing the DPF since it's a PIA to assemble the package, so I dropped the subframe about an inch and the bracket came loose. The BBQ sauce substance leaked and collapsed, forming metal on metal. I ordered the LEFT and RIGHT engine mounts according to the original part numbers. But when you compare the parts, they all look exactly the same. I'm not sure if it's the exact same part or if it was a mistake. My car crawler is broken. Research what is good to buy.
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| rock69 (852hp) | Car drives great with new engine mounts! I can barely tell it's on, even on cold mornings. So that was a success. Found this on the hood after the hood was repainted a few weeks ago. I'm no expert, but I've driven a Bimmer before and never seen the paint chip like this. I called the body shop again and again explained that they were responsible for the damage caused by their work. If a rock hits the car, that's my fault again. Yes, something must have hit the car, but I don't see a crater around the car; The paint should be able to withstand small stones and splinters to some extent and not chip off easily. I'm looking for opinions on what would cause the paint to chip like that, especially after the car was just painted. Not only the hood, but also the side panels and bumper have a lot of chips and the paint seems to be falling off very easily. I'm all for giving people the benefit of the doubt, but the paint job was bullshit from the start.
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| 040595 (960hp) | I'm sorry it was so awkward. With all the issues you diagnosed and tracked, you would have thought that painting would have been a relatively easy part of the process! If the paint is literally falling off/peeling, you may be able to get further by waiting a week or two until the faulty paintwork is obvious. However, I'm not sure if these guys try again it will produce a result you're happy with. A partial refund and a new shop might be preferable.
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