| Username: | Message: |
|---|
| grubbab (857hp) | Quote: Originally posted by Bounceme I added a front parking camera to my F11 because I'm always afraid of crushing the front edge when parking on a curb. It uses the car's screen and is activated by pressing and holding the Idrive controller button for 2-3 seconds. I made this video but it's in Danish. It doesn't flicker in real life, only in the video. Rgs Bounceme This is exactly what I'm looking for. Can you please provide any further information or details??
|
| starwars7 (226hp) | Naturally. I got my set from emtronika.com. It is a rear camera kit (BVI-250) with the option to also support a front camera. There are a few variations (NBT, CIC), but contact them and tell them what you need. They are very service oriented (I got a lot of help from them). They are also available on Ebay. Rgs Allan
|
| 84848484 (176hp) | Did your car already have a rear view camera? My car already has the 360 camera package, but if possible I would like to add a front camera like yours.
|
| santi (943hp) | No, it just had the parking sensors.
|
| sup123 (209hp) | OK thanks. After closer inspection, I'm wrong: the F10 only has the 270 degree system. The 360-degree view is available on some BMWs, but not on the F10. If my car had the 360 degree system, I wouldn't ask for a front camera!
|
| bigdicks (695hp) | Quote: Originally posted by Bounceme Of course. I got my set from emtronika.com. It is a rear camera kit (BVI-250) with the option to also support a front camera. There are a few variations (NBT, CIC), but contact them and tell them what you need. They are very service oriented (I got a lot of help from them). They are also available on Ebay. Rgs Allan Thanks!
|
| wtpfhm (636hp) | Bounceme Where exactly is your camera mounted? Is it visible? Can you share pictures? Thanks
|
| catalin (58hp) | Check out my thread. If you need more, just ask again. Rgs Bounceme https://f10.5post.com/forums/showthread.php?t=1786071
|
| grih-rom (899hp) | Bounceme Sorry, but can you provide installation details? I can't reach her. Would you happen to know if a generic backup camera (from Amazon) would work? There are many under $50, and since I already have a monitor for my existing backup camera, could I just plug it into that? Thanks.
|
| jessica26 (24hp) | Quote: Originally posted by E90angeleyes Bounceme Sorry, but can you provide installation details? I can't reach her. Would you happen to know if a generic backup camera (from Amazon) would work? There are many under $50, and since I already have a monitor for my existing backup camera, could I just plug it into that? Thanks. Hello again. I don't know if a camera can be used. I bought the complete package which includes both the front and rear cameras as well as the box to control the whole thing. It is designed for use with the original BMW monitor.
|
| anhmaiyeuem (273hp) | Did you find installing Bounceme easy or did you need special tools or knowledge???
|
| johnny4 (756hp) | Hello, I see that some cars that do not have a standard rear view camera have an aftermarket camera installed. Normally you can see the little camera just above the rear license plate or something. Of course my car has a rear view camera. However, can I attach one of these aftermarket cameras to the front of my car? Our cars are quite long. And when I'm lowered, I'm constantly afraid of hitting the curb. Sometimes I park way too far out. Yes, there are front sensors, but they don't detect the bottom of the front bumper where I would smash the curb. If I can do this, how exactly would it work? I see that some come with a screen and others don't. I'd rather not add an additional screen. Can I connect it to the stock screen? Or is that too complicated and the warranty is void? Also, I don't know how these things work or are connected. Where could I place it discreetly? I thought right behind the grill? All ideas/suggestions/contributions are welcome. Thanks!
|
| 26011991 (976hp) | I added a front parking camera to my F11 because I'm always afraid of clipping the front edge when parking on a curb. It uses the car's screen and is activated by pressing and holding the Idrive controller button for 2-3 seconds. I made this video but it's in Danish. It doesn't flicker in real life, only in the video. Rgs Bounceme
|
| faggot69 (420hp) | Quote: Originally posted by Bounceme I added a front parking camera to my F11 because I'm always afraid of crushing the front edge when parking on a curb. It uses the car's screen and is activated by pressing and holding the Idrive controller button for 2-3 seconds. I made this video but it's in Danish. It doesn't flicker in real life, only in the video. Rgs Bounceme This is exactly what I'm looking for. Can you please provide any further information or details??
|
| rosie01 (482hp) | Naturally. I got my set from emtronika.com. It is a rear camera kit (BVI-250) with the option to also support a front camera. There are a few variations (NBT, CIC), but contact them and tell them what you need. They are very service oriented (I got a lot of help from them). They are also available on Ebay. Rgs Allan
|
| miamiheat1 (148hp) | Did your car already have a rear view camera? My car already has the 360 camera package, but if possible I would like to add a front camera like yours.
|
| yasser (366hp) | No, it just had the parking sensors.
|
| pretinha (685hp) | OK thanks. After closer inspection, I'm wrong: the F10 only has the 270 degree system. The 360-degree view is available on some BMWs, but not on the F10. If my car had the 360 degree system, I wouldn't ask for a front camera!
|
| killa9 (171hp) | Quote: Originally posted by Bounceme Of course. I got my set from emtronika.com. It is a rear camera kit (BVI-250) with the option to also support a front camera. There are a few variations (NBT, CIC), but contact them and tell them what you need. They are very service oriented (I got a lot of help from them). They are also available on Ebay. Rgs Allan Thanks!
|
| erick (487hp) | Bounceme Where exactly is your camera mounted? Is it visible? Can you share pictures? Thanks
|
| hunter66 (124hp) | Check out my thread. If you need more, just ask again. Rgs Bounceme https://f10.5post.com/forums/showthread.php?t=1786071
|
| oleg1995 (248hp) | Bounceme Sorry, but can you provide installation details? I can't reach her. Would you happen to know if a generic backup camera (from Amazon) would work? There are many under $50, and since I already have a monitor for my existing backup camera, could I just plug it into that? Thanks.
|
| BMWM5NYC (93hp) | Quote: Originally posted by E90angeleyes Bounceme Sorry, but can you provide installation details? I can't reach her. Would you happen to know if a generic backup camera (from Amazon) would work? There are many under $50, and since I already have a monitor for my existing backup camera, could I just plug it into that? Thanks. Hello again. I don't know if a camera can be used. I bought the complete package which includes both the front and rear cameras as well as the box to control the whole thing. It is designed for use with the original BMW monitor.
|
| serg123 (119hp) | Did you find installing Bounceme easy or did you need special tools or knowledge???
|
| bmclaurin (956hp) | Hello everyone! The Fakra connector on the NBT control unit was damaged when I removed the cable from the control unit. The damaged connections are Fakra-A and Fakra-B sockets, which are located on the back of the control unit and are designed in white and black for AM/FM reception. Please see the attached image. I just want to know if they are repairable and how to fix them. Thanks!
|
| stella2 (723hp) | I'm pretty sure it's usually two pieces, one is soldered to the board, the other attaches to it and is basically the female input. The latter should just need replacing. Check out this video:
|
| fuckyou187 (829hp) | Quote: Originally written by spielnicht. I'm pretty sure it's usually two pieces, one is soldered to the board, the other attaches to it and is basically the female input. The latter should just need replacing. Check out this video: Thanks for the answer! Very useful information! Any idea where I can buy the small board that attaches to the motherboard you mentioned the latter? Thanks!
|
| J-Raid (702hp) | Hello everyone! The Fakra connector on the NBT control unit was damaged when I removed the cable from the control unit. The damaged connections are Fakra-A and Fakra-B sockets, which are located on the back of the control unit and are designed in white and black for AM/FM reception. Please see the attached image. I just want to know if they are repairable and how to fix them. Thanks!
|
| batangas (313hp) | I'm pretty sure it's usually two pieces, one is soldered to the board, the other attaches to it and is basically the female input. The latter should just need replacing. Check out this video:
|
| ang980 (974hp) | Quote: Originally written by spielnicht. I'm pretty sure it's usually two pieces, one is soldered to the board, the other attaches to it and is basically the female input. The latter should just need replacing. Check out this video: Thanks for the answer! Very useful information! Any idea where I can buy the small board that attaches to the motherboard you mentioned the latter? Thanks!
|
| mike55 (52hp) | My steering wheel is the only part on the inside that is showing its age and it doesn't fit me well anymore. The leather trim shows clear signs of wear in some places and is just an eyesore, especially after cleaning. What are the best options here? New is out of the question as I don't have any expenses $1,400.
|
| jtauk (870hp) | Quote: Quote from spielnicht: My steering wheel is the only interior part that shows its age and that no longer fits me properly. The leather trim shows clear signs of wear in some places and is just an eyesore, especially after cleaning. What are the best options here? New is out of the question because I'm not spending $1,400. Wrap it up!
|
| robles (181hp) | Look for Mewant Wraps. They make one for the M Sport bike and the M bike, even though they have the same wheels dimensionally. Go for the M model as it fits better from what I heard
|
| truus (141hp) | Quote: Originally posted by Unspec. Look for Mewant Wraps. They make one for the M Sport bike and the M bike, even though they have the same wheels dimensionally. Go for the M model as I heard it fits better. I couldn't find one for the F10 from them.
|
| coracao (660hp) | They repainted a wheel in an owned garage.
|
| sexybaby1 (456hp) | Quote: Originally posted by ezaircon4jc I couldn't find one from them for the F10. https://www.amazon.com/dp/B08ZHDLTX6?ref=myi_title_dp This is the M version I referenced
|
| consuelo1 (896hp) | Leatherique has a steering wheel restoration kit. Stripper, dye, top coat. I'll look for a link and share it if I find it. EDIT: Here is a link – http://www.leatherique.com/steering-wheels.html
|
| 12061985 (273hp) | Quote: Originally posted by Unspec https://www.amazon.com/dp/B08ZHDLTX6?ref=myi_title_dp This is the M version I referenced. Stupid, I went to their website. Should have known Amazon would have them!
|
| 886886 (962hp) | Quote: Quote from spielnicht: My steering wheel is the only interior part that shows its age and that no longer fits me properly. The leather trim shows clear signs of wear in some places and is just an eyesore, especially after cleaning. What are the best options here? New is out of the question because I'm not spending $1,400. Hello! I actually found this nice looking steering wheel wrap on www.eastdetailing.com. Navigating the site is pretty easy and all M Sport steering wheels from our time should be the same. If not, there are plenty of options for different rim models!
|
| balla (499hp) | Quote: Originally written by Jacob_f10 Hello! I actually found this nice looking steering wheel wrap on www.eastdetailing.com. Navigating the site is pretty easy and all M Sport steering wheels from our time should be the same. If not, there are tons of options for different rim models! They literally just resell the Mewant wraps. It may not be a true resale, but it's definitely from the same OEM.
|
| kayla09 (308hp) | I spent weeks deciding between the Colourlock and Mewant options and then decided on the latter. The price was $69 versus $64, but with Colourlock it seems like a total risk considering how bad the condition of my steering wheel is. I've used Colourlock to repair leather seats in the past and it worked like magic (I only use their cleaner and brush). my Nappa seats), but I'm not sure how much high-stress parts like a steering wheel would take. Now I'm waiting 4-6 weeks
|
| arien (585hp) | Wrap it up!
|
| booboo21 (389hp) | Late update but I got my Mewant wrap (full leather with perforated sections) and it was a total disaster. What they sent me was not a closed circle like in the pictures or instructional videos. I took the steering wheel completely out of the car to work on it and literally spent two hours straight getting it aligned well and had no problems. I basically needed three hands to pull each end, hold it in place, and then sew. All the time the smell of cheap leather annoys me to no end and at some point I went crazy, ripped it out and threw it down the drain for $65. I just received my Colourlock repair kit so I'll try that next. Videos make it look magical, but we'll see. I see a lot of beautifully renovated or custom steering wheels online, but none are heated. Does anyone know of one that retains the heating and vibration functions, or does anyone at least know of a place to send your bike to have it professionally overhauled? Using soft leather for the most used part of the car is probably the stupidest thing BMW continues to do.
|
| sebast (813hp) | Quote: Originally posted by spielnicht. Late update but I got my Mewant case (full leather with perforated sections) and it was a total disaster. What they sent me was not a closed circle like in the pictures or instructional videos. I took the steering wheel completely out of the car to work on it and literally spent two hours straight getting it aligned well and had no problems. I basically needed three hands to pull each end, hold it in place, and then sew. All the time the smell of cheap leather annoys me to no end and at some point I went crazy, ripped it out and threw it down the drain for $65. I just received my Colourlock repair kit so I'll try that next. Videos make it look magical, but we'll see. I see a lot of beautifully renovated or custom steering wheels online, but none are heated. Does anyone know of one that retains the heating and vibration functions, or does anyone at least know of a place to send your bike to have it professionally overhauled? Using soft leather for the most used part of the car is probably the stupidest thing BMW continues to do. This sucks... However, you should request a refund. I got a quote from these guys last year: https://craftcustoms.com/photos-by-m...and-dash-trim/ I believe my steering wheel restoration cost about $500-$600.
|
| linkedin69 (840hp) | All options for the Pre-Lci Msport wheel?
|
| bayarea328xit (489hp) | Quote: Originally posted by spielnicht. Late update but I got my Mewant case (full leather with perforated sections) and it was a total disaster. What they sent me was not a closed circle like in the pictures or instructional videos. I took the steering wheel completely out of the car to work on it and literally spent two hours straight getting it aligned well and had no problems. I basically needed three hands to pull each end, hold it in place, and then sew. All the time the smell of cheap leather annoys me to no end and at some point I went crazy, ripped it out and threw it down the drain for $65. I just received my Colourlock repair kit so I'll try that next. Videos make it look magical, but we'll see. I see a lot of beautifully renovated or custom steering wheels online, but none are heated. Does anyone know of one that retains the heating and vibration functions, or does anyone at least know of a place to send your bike to have it professionally overhauled? Using soft leather for the most used part of the car is probably the stupidest thing BMW continues to do. I'm curious to see how Colourlock works for you. If you want to go beyond that, a repaint by a leather specialist would be more even. They use a spray gun. Factory leather is usually just dyed anyway.
|
| Jim Cozzi (889hp) |
|
| mangobot (112hp) | Quote: Originally posted by spielnicht. Late update but I got my Mewant case (full leather with perforated sections) and it was a total disaster. What they sent me was not a closed circle like in the pictures or instructional videos. I took the steering wheel completely out of the car to work on it and literally spent two hours straight getting it aligned well and had no problems. I basically needed three hands to pull each end, hold it in place, and then sew. The whole time, the smell of cheap leather annoyed me to no end and I got to the point where I just went crazy, ripped it out, and threw it down the drain for $65. I just received my Colourlock repair kit so I'll try that next. Videos make it look magical, but look. I see a lot of beautifully renovated or custom steering wheels online, but none are heated. Does anyone know of one that retains the heating and vibration functions, or does anyone at least know of a place to send your bike to have it professionally overhauled? Using soft leather for the most used part of the car is probably the stupidest thing BMW continues to do. Someone else had the exact same experience unless
|
| 16051982 (104hp) | Quote: Quote from spielnicht: My steering wheel is the only interior part that shows its age and that no longer fits me properly. The leather trim shows clear signs of wear in some places and is just an eyesore, especially after cleaning. What are the best options here? New is out of the question because I'm not spending $1,400. I used Colorlock to repair my steering wheel. The workmanship was completely flawed, only the fabric portion of the leather remained at most of the contact points. I applied 4/5 coats and am amazed at how clean it looks!! Not perfect in any way, but very close. I highly recommend it
|
| april15 (91hp) | Quote: Originally written by spielnicht I see a lot of beautifully refinished or customized steering wheels online, but none of them are heated. Does anyone know of one that retains the heating and vibration functions, or does anyone at least know of a place to send your bike to have it professionally overhauled? A vendor name from the past comes to mind: Dallas Custom Steering Wheel. You can probably google their name to get their website and contact information. There is also a provider in the Atlanta, GA area that I have in mind...but I'm not sure if they're still in business or not since it's been a while (probably close to a decade) . Both providers had the choice of sending your bike in to have it repaired... or using an exchange program where you sent them your bike and they sent you a bike with the same options. EDIT: It just occurred to me...the second provider is Colby Wheel...so try www.colbywheel.com for contact information. If you prefer leather instead of Alcantera, you will probably need to call and talk to them to request leather or leather with perforated sections instead of Alcantera for any F-Series BMW. FYI: Each of these two providers will cost significantly more than the Mewant steering wheel film.
|
| friday123 (686hp) | Quote: Originally posted by spielnicht. Late update but I got my Mewant case (full leather with perforated sections) and it was a total disaster. What they sent me was not a closed circle like in the pictures or instructional videos. I took the steering wheel completely out of the car to work on it and literally spent two hours straight getting it aligned well and had no problems. I basically needed three hands to pull each end, hold it in place, and then sew. All the time the smell of cheap leather annoys me to no end and at some point I went crazy, ripped it out and threw it down the drain for $65. I just received my Colourlock repair kit so I'll try that next. Videos make it look magical, but we'll see. I see a lot of beautifully renovated or custom steering wheels online, but none are heated. Does anyone know of one that retains the heating and vibration functions, or does anyone at least know of a place to send your bike to have it professionally overhauled? Using soft leather for the most used part of the car is probably the stupidest thing BMW continues to do. The models without a full circle are for the M bikes. I'm not sure why they were designed differently since the wheels are the same dimensions, but I actually prefer the non-full circle models. I had a complete circle and the bottom part was just so ugly it reminded me of a diaper lol. For the M positions, you really need to start at the 12 o'clock position and work your way down.
|
| g86u94psn5 (500hp) | Meow for me! Packing was a pain, but the end result was worth it.
|
| 191288 (130hp) | My steering wheel is the only part on the inside that is showing its age and it doesn't fit me well anymore. The leather trim shows clear signs of wear in some places and is just an eyesore, especially after cleaning. What are the best options here? New is out of the question as I don't have any expenses $1,400.
|
| emilly (86hp) | Quote: Quote from spielnicht: My steering wheel is the only interior part that shows its age and that no longer fits me properly. The leather trim shows clear signs of wear in some places and is just an eyesore, especially after cleaning. What are the best options here? New is out of the question because I'm not spending $1,400. Wrap it up!
|
| axel (713hp) | Look for Mewant Wraps. They make one for the M Sport bike and the M bike, even though they have the same wheels dimensionally. Go for the M model as it fits better from what I heard
|
| coolchu001 (310hp) | Quote: Originally posted by Unspec. Look for Mewant Wraps. They make one for the M Sport bike and the M bike, even though they have the same wheels dimensionally. Go for the M model as I heard it fits better. I couldn't find one for the F10 from them.
|
| alianzalima (356hp) | They repainted a wheel in an owned garage.
|
| turboawd (212hp) | Quote: Originally posted by ezaircon4jc I couldn't find one from them for the F10. https://www.amazon.com/dp/B08ZHDLTX6?ref=myi_title_dp This is the M version I referenced
|
| fuckoff0 (752hp) | Leatherique has a steering wheel restoration kit. Stripper, dye, top coat. I'll look for a link and share it if I find it. EDIT: Here is a link – http://www.leatherique.com/steering-wheels.html
|
| 27041994 (494hp) | Quote: Originally posted by Unspec https://www.amazon.com/dp/B08ZHDLTX6?ref=myi_title_dp This is the M version I referenced. Stupid, I went to their website. Should have known Amazon would have them!
|
| senior05 (258hp) | Quote: Quote from spielnicht: My steering wheel is the only interior part that shows its age and that no longer fits me properly. The leather trim shows clear signs of wear in some places and is just an eyesore, especially after cleaning. What are the best options here? New is out of the question because I'm not spending $1,400. Hello! I actually found this nice looking steering wheel wrap on www.eastdetailing.com. Navigating the site is pretty easy and all M Sport steering wheels from our time should be the same. If not, there are plenty of options for different rim models!
|
| 1budlight (997hp) | Quote: Originally written by Jacob_f10 Hello! I actually found this nice looking steering wheel wrap on www.eastdetailing.com. Navigating the site is pretty easy and all M Sport steering wheels from our time should be the same. If not, there are tons of options for different rim models! They literally just resell the Mewant wraps. It may not be a true resale, but it's definitely from the same OEM.
|
| 24101982 (400hp) | I spent weeks deciding between the Colourlock and Mewant options and then decided on the latter. The price was $69 versus $64, but with Colourlock it seems like a total risk considering how bad the condition of my steering wheel is. I've used Colourlock to repair leather seats in the past and it worked like magic (I only use their cleaner and brush). my Nappa seats), but I'm not sure how much high-stress parts like a steering wheel would take. Now I'm waiting 4-6 weeks
|
| brother (706hp) | Wrap it up!
|
| sublime69 (495hp) | Late update but I got my Mewant wrap (full leather with perforated sections) and it was a total disaster. What they sent me was not a closed circle like in the pictures or instructional videos. I took the steering wheel completely out of the car to work on it and literally spent two hours straight getting it aligned well and had no problems. I basically needed three hands to pull each end, hold it in place, and then sew. All the time the smell of cheap leather annoys me to no end and at some point I went crazy, ripped it out and threw it down the drain for $65. I just received my Colourlock repair kit so I'll try that next. Videos make it look magical, but we'll see. I see a lot of beautifully renovated or custom steering wheels online, but none are heated. Does anyone know of one that retains the heating and vibration functions, or does anyone at least know of a place to send your bike to have it professionally overhauled? Using soft leather for the most used part of the car is probably the stupidest thing BMW continues to do.
|
| florida6 (923hp) | Quote: Originally posted by spielnicht. Late update but I got my Mewant case (full leather with perforated sections) and it was a total disaster. What they sent me was not a closed circle like in the pictures or instructional videos. I took the steering wheel completely out of the car to work on it and literally spent two hours straight getting it aligned well and had no problems. I basically needed three hands to pull each end, hold it in place, and then sew. All the time the smell of cheap leather annoys me to no end and at some point I went crazy, ripped it out and threw it down the drain for $65. I just received my Colourlock repair kit so I'll try that next. Videos make it look magical, but we'll see. I see a lot of beautifully renovated or custom steering wheels online, but none are heated. Does anyone know of one that retains the heating and vibration functions, or does anyone at least know of a place to send your bike to have it professionally overhauled? Using soft leather for the most used part of the car is probably the stupidest thing BMW continues to do. This sucks... However, you should request a refund. I got a quote from these guys last year: https://craftcustoms.com/photos-by-m...and-dash-trim/ I believe my steering wheel restoration cost about $500-$600.
|
| melissa21 (64hp) | All options for the Pre-Lci Msport wheel?
|
| haritha (970hp) | Quote: Originally posted by spielnicht. Late update but I got my Mewant case (full leather with perforated sections) and it was a total disaster. What they sent me was not a closed circle like in the pictures or instructional videos. I took the steering wheel completely out of the car to work on it and literally spent two hours straight getting it aligned well and had no problems. I basically needed three hands to pull each end, hold it in place, and then sew. All the time the smell of cheap leather annoys me to no end and at some point I went crazy, ripped it out and threw it down the drain for $65. I just received my Colourlock repair kit so I'll try that next. Videos make it look magical, but we'll see. I see a lot of beautifully renovated or custom steering wheels online, but none are heated. Does anyone know of one that retains the heating and vibration functions, or does anyone at least know of a place to send your bike to have it professionally overhauled? Using soft leather for the most used part of the car is probably the stupidest thing BMW continues to do. I'm curious to see how Colourlock works for you. If you want to go beyond that, a repaint by a leather specialist would be more even. They use a spray gun. Factory leather is usually just dyed anyway.
|
| 19851986 (336hp) |
|
| 050786 (976hp) | Quote: Originally posted by spielnicht. Late update but I got my Mewant case (full leather with perforated sections) and it was a total disaster. What they sent me was not a closed circle like in the pictures or instructional videos. I took the steering wheel completely out of the car to work on it and literally spent two hours straight getting it aligned well and had no problems. I basically needed three hands to pull each end, hold it in place, and then sew. The whole time, the smell of cheap leather annoyed me to no end and I got to the point where I just went crazy, ripped it out, and threw it down the drain for $65. I just received my Colourlock repair kit so I'll try that next. Videos make it look magical, but look. I see a lot of beautifully renovated or custom steering wheels online, but none are heated. Does anyone know of one that retains the heating and vibration functions, or does anyone at least know of a place to send your bike to have it professionally overhauled? Using soft leather for the most used part of the car is probably the stupidest thing BMW continues to do. Someone else had the exact same experience unless
|
| lera (10hp) | Quote: Quote from spielnicht: My steering wheel is the only interior part that shows its age and that no longer fits me properly. The leather trim shows clear signs of wear in some places and is just an eyesore, especially after cleaning. What are the best options here? New is out of the question because I'm not spending $1,400. I used Colorlock to repair my steering wheel. The workmanship was completely flawed, only the fabric portion of the leather remained at most of the contact points. I applied 4/5 coats and am amazed at how clean it looks!! Not perfect in any way, but very close. I highly recommend it
|
| tiger1234 (956hp) | Quote: Originally written by spielnicht I see a lot of beautifully refinished or customized steering wheels online, but none of them are heated. Does anyone know of one that retains the heating and vibration functions, or does anyone at least know of a place to send your bike to have it professionally overhauled? A vendor name from the past comes to mind: Dallas Custom Steering Wheel. You can probably google their name to get their website and contact information. There is also a provider in the Atlanta, GA area that I have in mind...but I'm not sure if they're still in business or not since it's been a while (probably close to a decade) . Both providers had the choice of sending your bike in to have it repaired... or using an exchange program where you sent them your bike and they sent you a bike with the same options. EDIT: It just occurred to me...the second provider is Colby Wheel...so try www.colbywheel.com for contact information. If you prefer leather instead of Alcantera, you will probably need to call and talk to them to request leather or leather with perforated sections instead of Alcantera for any F-Series BMW. FYI: Each of these two providers will cost significantly more than the Mewant steering wheel film.
|
| Yaorqw12334 (258hp) | Quote: Originally posted by spielnicht. Late update but I got my Mewant case (full leather with perforated sections) and it was a total disaster. What they sent me was not a closed circle like in the pictures or instructional videos. I took the steering wheel completely out of the car to work on it and literally spent two hours straight getting it aligned well and had no problems. I basically needed three hands to pull each end, hold it in place, and then sew. All the time the smell of cheap leather annoys me to no end and at some point I went crazy, ripped it out and threw it down the drain for $65. I just received my Colourlock repair kit so I'll try that next. Videos make it look magical, but we'll see. I see a lot of beautifully renovated or custom steering wheels online, but none are heated. Does anyone know of one that retains the heating and vibration functions, or does anyone at least know of a place to send your bike to have it professionally overhauled? Using soft leather for the most used part of the car is probably the stupidest thing BMW continues to do. The models without a full circle are for the M bikes. I'm not sure why they were designed differently since the wheels are the same dimensions, but I actually prefer the non-full circle models. I had a complete circle and the bottom part was just so ugly it reminded me of a diaper lol. For the M positions, you really need to start at the 12 o'clock position and work your way down.
|
| morellomax (298hp) | Meow for me! Packing was a pain, but the end result was worth it.
|
| ikechukwu (137hp) | Does anyone know the correct procedure to reset this anti-pinch feature on a 2013 535? I've tried several resets but it doesn't work. This is for the front driver door. Thanks
|
| 040588 (222hp) | Have you tried the following: Press down to open the window. Once the window is fully down, press and hold the button for a few seconds (you may see/hear something, you may not). Pull the window switch to close the window. Once closed, drag and hold the window for a few seconds. Repeat this for all windows. This is how I reset the windows on my E90 and some older Audis years ago.
|
| heather69 (745hp) | Quote: Originally written by Harryhood. Have you tried the following: Press down to open the window. Once the window is fully down, press and hold the button for a few seconds (you may see/hear something, you may not). To close the window once closed, drag and hold the window button for a few seconds. Repeat this for all windows. This is how I reset the windows on my E90 and some older Audis years ago. Thanks, Harryhood. I tried but without success.
|
| mama123456 (895hp) | All F10s have this function??
|
| 111997 (326hp) | You can try resetting the device using an Obd tool or Ista software
|
| samuel07 (584hp) | Quote: Originally posted by Gunner313 Do all F10s have this feature? Do you mean the anti-trap function? If you have power windows, then yes... they have (or should have) an anti-pinch feature. You can test the anti-pinch feature (without sacrificing an arm or finger) by taking a rolled up towel or something soft (like a teddy bear)... or even a rolled up magazine or newspaper... and placing it between the top of a partially lowered one window and the upper frame of the door. Press the UP button and when the window is obstructed by the pressure of the victim object, the window should stop and lower a little to facilitate the removal of whatever is preventing the window from rising. Also, do the test with the door closed as there are some other safety features (at least for the driver's door) that will prevent the window from closing when the door is opened (unless it was coded by a previous owner).).
|
| olidata (184hp) | Quote: Originally posted by Gunner313 Do all F10s have this feature? This is a standard feature on the F10, according to the wiring diagram they all have anti-pinch protection
|
| trista1 (532hp) | Quote: Originally posted by LSX5 Does anyone know the proper procedure for resetting this anti-trap feature on a 2013 535? I've tried several resets but it doesn't work. This is for the front driver door. Thank you. The correct initialization process is: * All doors closed * Ignition on * Open the window and continue to press the window switch down for 15 to 25 seconds. * Close the window by pulling the window switch all the way up. * After the window is completely closed, the initialization is complete. * Repeat for each window. This is from a previous thread https://f10.5post.com/forums/showthread.php?t=1118813
|
| blubb (717hp) | Does anyone know the correct procedure to reset this anti-pinch feature on a 2013 535? I've tried several resets but it doesn't work. This is for the front driver door. Thanks
|
| slinky1 (296hp) | Have you tried the following: Press down to open the window. Once the window is fully down, press and hold the button for a few seconds (you may see/hear something, you may not). Pull the window switch to close the window. Once closed, drag and hold the window for a few seconds. Repeat this for all windows. This is how I reset the windows on my E90 and some older Audis years ago.
|
| vallejo (557hp) | Quote: Originally written by Harryhood. Have you tried the following: Press down to open the window. Once the window is fully down, press and hold the button for a few seconds (you may see/hear something, you may not). To close the window once closed, drag and hold the window button for a few seconds. Repeat this for all windows. This is how I reset the windows on my E90 and some older Audis years ago. Thanks, Harryhood. I tried but without success.
|
| bigdaddy13 (88hp) | All F10s have this function??
|
| 111176 (383hp) | You can try resetting the device using an Obd tool or Ista software
|
| chloe3 (943hp) | Quote: Originally posted by Gunner313 Do all F10s have this feature? Do you mean the anti-trap function? If you have power windows, then yes... you have (or should have) an anti-pinch feature. You can test the anti-pinch feature (without sacrificing an arm or finger) by taking a rolled up towel or something soft (like a teddy bear)... or even a rolled up magazine or newspaper... and placing it between the top of a partially lowered one window and the upper frame of the door. Press the UP button and when the window is obstructed by the pressure of the victim object, the window should stop and lower a little to facilitate the removal of whatever is preventing the window from rising. Also, do the test with the door closed as there are some other safety features (at least for the driver's door) that will prevent the window from closing when the door is opened (unless it was coded by a previous owner).).
|
| bigbird (276hp) | Quote: Originally posted by Gunner313 Do all F10s have this feature? This is a standard feature on the F10, according to the wiring diagram they all have anti-pinch protection
|
| 6161 (713hp) | Quote: Originally posted by LSX5 Does anyone know the proper procedure for resetting this anti-trap feature on a 2013 535? I've tried several resets but it doesn't work. This is for the front driver door. Thank you. The correct initialization process is: * All doors closed * Ignition on * Open the window and continue to press the window switch down for 15 to 25 seconds. * Close the window by pulling the window switch all the way up. * After the window is completely closed, the initialization is complete. * Repeat for each window. This is from a previous thread https://f10.5post.com/forums/showthread.php?t=1118813
|
| fatboy10 (700hp) | I needed to replace the front end of my 2012 535i that I purchased at auction. I hit a big milestone today when I bolted the radiator, intercooler and condenser assembly into place. I'm pretty sure I've attached the right end of the long metal hose that runs to the front of the car correctly, but I can't figure out how to route the hoses on the left side. I can't figure out if they go under, around or through the subframe. I also can't remember which hose is attached to which nipple on the radiator. Does the upper or lower hose on the aux wheel attach to the upper or lower nipple on the radiator? Does anyone have pictures of the left front additional cooler and the routing of the hoses? I can only work on the car a few hours a week, but that might change once I get coolant in the engine. Thank you for any help you can offer.
|
| number25 (469hp) | I think I may have a hose routing issue since I'm using the hose from a 550i and not a 535i. I'm assuming they should be the same, but the part numbers differ between hoses. I need to track down the bent hose I pulled off my 535i and compare the hoses.
|
| iseedeadpeople (553hp) | I needed to replace the front end of my 2012 535i that I purchased at auction. I hit a big milestone today when I bolted the radiator, intercooler and condenser assembly into place. I'm pretty sure I've attached the right end of the long metal hose that runs to the front of the car correctly, but I can't figure out how to route the hoses on the left side. I can't figure out if they go under, around or through the subframe. I also can't remember which hose is attached to which nipple on the radiator. Does the upper or lower hose on the aux wheel attach to the upper or lower nipple on the radiator? Does anyone have pictures of the left front additional cooler and the routing of the hoses? I can only work on the car a few hours a week, but that might change once I get coolant in the engine. Thank you for any help you can offer.
|
| life09 (355hp) | I think I may have a hose routing issue since I'm using the hose from a 550i and not a 535i. I'm assuming they should be the same, but the part numbers differ between hoses. I need to track down the bent hose I pulled off my 535i and compare the hoses.
|
| 560032 (213hp) | Hi guys, I'm having trouble protecting my 11, 550i series from smog. Had a few codes and deleted them all. I've driven about 500 miles over two weeks now, but the fuel system not ready message still appears. No permanent/saved codes. I did my best to maintain the drive cycles and connected two different scanners to make sure the data was correct. Any help there will be greatly appreciated. A few pictures attached if that would help... Thanks
|
| coral1 (501hp) | mmansoori,27787247]Hi guys, I'm having trouble getting my 11.550i factory gear ready for the smog. Had a few codes and deleted them all. I've driven about 500 miles over two weeks now, but the fuel system not ready message still appears. No permanent/saved codes. I did my best to maintain the drive cycles and connected two different scanners to make sure the data was correct. Any help there will be greatly appreciated. A few pictures attached if that would help... Thanks
|
| hector12 (692hp) | Also. I had trouble getting the fuel ready but it doesn't happen. Any advice on what you did to prepare it?
|
| 251185 (64hp) | Try to update the car and perform the driving cycle later after the update. If the vehicle is stock, the fuel system should be reset. If these are melodies, you should remove them.
|
| rotciv (792hp) | Hi guys, I'm having trouble protecting my 11, 550i series from smog. Had a few codes and deleted them all. I've driven about 500 miles over two weeks now, but the fuel system not ready message still appears. No permanent/saved codes. I did my best to maintain the drive cycles and connected two different scanners to make sure the data was correct. Any help there will be greatly appreciated. A few pictures attached if that would help... Thanks
|
| 440010 (440hp) | mmansoori,27787247]Hi guys, I'm having trouble getting my 11.550i factory gear ready for the smog. Had a few codes and deleted them all. I've driven about 500 miles over two weeks now, but the fuel system not ready message still appears. No permanent/saved codes. I did my best to maintain the drive cycles and connected two different scanners to make sure the data was correct. Any help there will be greatly appreciated. A few pictures attached if that would help... Thanks
|
| prince3 (818hp) | Also. I had trouble getting the fuel ready but it doesn't happen. Any advice on what you did to prepare it?
|
| chanel12 (239hp) | Try to update the car and perform the driving cycle later after the update. If the vehicle is stock, the fuel system should be reset. If these are melodies, you should remove them.
|
| sh55 (669hp) | Hello, new here. I purchased a low mileage 2012 F10 528i for a year now. It was equipped with 18-inch wheels and 245/45 R18 run-flat tires. and the car drives just terribly. Too bouncy for my taste and very crashy over potholes and small bumps, which are never in short supply in my home country. I have an E39 530i, no modifications at all, and with the F10 I feel like I've downgraded from the E39 somehow. I'm thinking about ditching the 18 and going for a 19 without run-flats to try and give it a more planted feel, whereas non-RFT models might handle potholes better. The first option is the Type 351 (8.5 J, ET33 - 255/40 R19 tires all around). The second option is the Type 610 (8.5 J, ET33 - 255/40 R19 tires at the front) (9 J, ET44 - 285/35 R19 at the rear). Both options are not viable. The question is, would either of these combinations make the car feel safer while reducing the harshness of the terrible 18 standard runflats? If so, which one ensures that the car stands better and absorbs bumps better? Sorry for the long post. PS: I don't care what it looks like, I just want it to drive like a projector. Edit: Would rub one of these tire options? ?
|
| chacal (673hp) | -Non-run flats make a big difference. -The wider tires will improve the driving experience, but in my opinion an F10 will not feel the same as an E39 even with the 19 tires and the sport package (I drove an e39 530i with the sport package before switching
|
| kaylin1 (378hp) | Quote: Originally posted by cals -NON Run Flats will make a big difference. -The wider tires will improve the driving experience, but in my opinion an F10 will not feel the same as an E39 even with the 19 tires and the sport package (I had an e39 530i with the sport package before switching to the F10 that was driving a more immersive and direct emotional experience) - I have a 535ix with the 19 offset M Sport wheels (Style 351 M Sport 275/35/19 rear and 245/40/19) and there is still room for wider wheels, but you'll have to check your setup anyway. I had a similar experience, with my previous vehicle being a 528i (E39) with the Sport Package. My F10 has the driving dynamics package (both dynamic dampers and active roll stabilization) and I lowered it with AC Schnitzer springs. It handles much better than my E39, but isn't as nimble. So, OP, there are things you can do to improve the way your car handles. The first step is to ditch the run flats. You can also consider either better springs or even coilovers (which of course includes springs and shocks). The latter is much more expensive, but many on this forum will say it's the best thing to do.
|
| 18101981 (539hp) | Quote: Originally posted by cals -NON Run Flats will make a big difference. -The wider tires will improve the driving experience, but in my opinion an F10 will not feel the same as an E39 even with the 19 tires and the sport package (I had an e39 530i with the sport package before switching to the F10 that was driving a more engaging and direct driving experience) - I have a 535ix with the 19 offset M Sport wheels (Style 351 M Sport 275/35/19 rear and 245/40/19) and there is still room for a wider version, but you still need to check your configuration. Well, yesterday I wet for the Type 610, which has similar dimensions to the 351m, and I will buy the tires tomorrow. May I ask how your current setup handles potholes and bumps?? ?
|
| harmon (647hp) | Quote: Originally posted by cdmulders I had a similar experience, with my previous vehicle being a 528i (E39) with the Sport Package. My F10 has the driving dynamics package (both dynamic dampers and active roll stabilization) and I lowered it with AC Schnitzer springs. It handles much better than my E39, but isn't as nimble. So, OP, there are things you can do to improve the way your car handles. The first step is to ditch the run flats. You can also consider either better springs or even coilovers (which of course includes springs and shocks). The latter is much more expensive, but many on this forum will say it's the best thing to do. I have a dynamic chassis. The problem is that where I live I could have an 8 lane silky smooth 100 mile route followed by a 20 mile two lane road full of potholes and bumps. It would be a nightmare to lower it or stiffen the suspension. That's why I'm trying to find a middle ground. Could I ask if you know if the ET 44 9 rear wheels would fit well in the 528i or if it is different from that? 535 ?
|
| lollypop2 (968hp) | Quote: Originally posted by msadekf10 May I ask if you know if the ET 44 9 rear wheels would fit well in the 528i or if they are different from the 535? All F10s share the same frame/body configuration (except for some differences in the front and rear bumpers), so there is no difference in fit between the 528i and 535i in terms of wheel fitment. The only thing I notice is that the 9 ET44 wheels are slightly recessed compared to the front wheels (about 5mm). This shouldn't be a problem on the rear wheels. Still, you may want to add a 10mm spacer to the rear wheels to make it look a little more aggressive. I run a 9.5 ET 35 wheel at the rear with no friction problems (with 275/35/19 tires).).
|
| 030980 (506hp) | Thanks guys for the help, I took a different approach mainly due to fear of road quality. I chose the 610 style rims in conjunction with Pirelli P ZERO without RFT. f: 8.5j ET 33 245/45 r19 R: 9j ET 44 275/40 r19 I set the side wall a little higher and it works much better than I expected. After changing the tire, I did an alignment and drove it. I hit +130mph and the car just feels like it's on a train track. It's now much smoother on rough roads than on an '18 RFT (feels like I was driving). for 17). Due to the larger wheel radius, it became slightly less nimble and the body roll increased slightly. At 30 psi front and 33 psi rear the contact area is maximized and further. The wheel spacing is now about 2-3 cm, while the car is about 1 cm higher. I'll try to post better pictures tomorrow morning when the lighting is better.
|
| blackbox (273hp) | Important update, I tried different tire pressure combinations for my setup. At 30 psi all around, body roll is significantly reduced, making the car nimble at the front and very grippy at the rear. I never thought such a small difference would change the car's feel so much, and I have no idea why BMW recommends increasing the rear tire pressure.
|
| 271986 (283hp) | Quote: Originally posted by msadekf10 Important update, I tried different tire pressure combinations for my setup. At 30 psi all around, body roll is significantly reduced, making the car nimble at the front and very grippy at the rear. I never thought such a small difference would change the car's feel so much, and I have no idea why BMW recommends increasing the rear tire pressure. This pressure seems to be very light if you want a reasonable and balanced rate of wear without being off your shoulders. Pay particular attention to the inner back shoulders. They could wear out if there is still a lot of tread left in the middle.
|
| 29031994 (125hp) | Quote: Originally written by msadekf10. Thanks guys for the help. I took a different approach, mainly due to fears about road quality. I chose the 610 style rims in conjunction with Pirelli P ZERO without RFT. f: 8.5j ET 33 245/45 r19 R: 9j ET 44 275/40 r19 I set the side wall a little higher and it works much better than I expected. I'll try to post better pictures tomorrow morning when the lighting is better. I switched to larger 245/45-19 winter tires and it worked great, even filling out the wheel arches. These are 408m wheels.
|
| booboo4 (813hp) | Hello, new here. I purchased a low mileage 2012 F10 528i for a year now. It was equipped with 18-inch wheels and 245/45 R18 run-flat tires. and the car drives just terribly. Too bouncy for my taste and very crashy over potholes and small bumps, which are never in short supply in my home country. I have an E39 530i, no modifications at all, and with the F10 I feel like I've downgraded from the E39 somehow. I'm thinking about ditching the 18 and going for a 19 without run-flats to try and give it a more planted feel, whereas non-RFT models might handle potholes better. The first option is the Type 351 (8.5 J, ET33 - 255/40 R19 tires all around). The second option is the Type 610 (8.5 J, ET33 - 255/40 R19 tires at the front) (9 J, ET44 - 285/35 R19 at the rear). Both options are not viable. The question is, would either of these combinations make the car feel safer while reducing the harshness of the terrible 18 standard runflats? If so, which one ensures that the car stands better and absorbs bumps better? Sorry for the long post. PS: I don't care what it looks like, I just want it to drive like a projector. Edit: Would rub one of these tire options? ?
|
| 07011985 (344hp) | -Non-run flats make a big difference. -The wider tires will improve the driving experience, but in my opinion an F10 will not feel the same as an E39 even with the 19 tires and the sport package (I drove an e39 530i with the sport package before switching
|
| babochka (849hp) | Quote: Originally posted by cals -NON Run Flats will make a big difference. -The wider tires will improve the driving experience, but in my opinion an F10 will not feel the same as an E39 even with the 19 tires and the sport package (I had an e39 530i with the sport package before switching to the F10 that was driving a more engaging and direct driving experience) - I have a 535ix with the 19 offset M Sport wheels (Style 351 M Sport 275/35/19 rear and 245/40/19) and there is still room for a wider version, but you still need to check your configuration. I had a similar experience, with my previous vehicle being a 528i (E39) with the Sport Package. My F10 has the driving dynamics package (both dynamic dampers and active roll stabilization) and I lowered it with AC Schnitzer springs. It handles much better than my E39, but isn't as nimble. So, OP, there are things you can do to improve the way your car handles. The first step is to ditch the run flats. You can also consider either better springs or even coilovers (which of course includes springs and shocks). The latter is much more expensive, but many on this forum will say it's the best thing to do.
|
| lk123456 (965hp) | Quote: Originally posted by cals -NON Run Flats will make a big difference. -The wider tires will improve the driving experience, but in my opinion an F10 will not feel the same as an E39 even with the 19 tires and the sport package (I had an e39 530i with the sport package before switching to the F10 that was driving a more engaging and direct driving experience) - I have a 535ix with the 19 offset M Sport wheels (Style 351 M Sport 275/35/19 rear and 245/40/19) and there is still room for a wider version, but you still need to check your configuration. Well, yesterday I wet for the Type 610, which has similar dimensions to the 351m, and I will buy the tires tomorrow. May I ask how your current setup handles potholes and bumps?? ?
|
| Cool (372hp) | Quote: Originally posted by cdmulders I had a similar experience, with my previous vehicle being a 528i (E39) with the Sport Package. My F10 has the driving dynamics package (both dynamic dampers and active roll stabilization) and I lowered it with AC Schnitzer springs. It handles much better than my E39, but isn't as nimble. So, OP, there are things you can do to improve the way your car handles. The first step is to ditch the run flats. You can also consider either better springs or even coilovers (which of course includes springs and shocks). The latter is much more expensive, but many on this forum will say it's the best thing to do. I have a dynamic chassis. The problem is that where I live I could have an 8 lane silky smooth 100 mile route followed by a 20 mile two lane road full of potholes and bumps. It would be a nightmare to lower it or stiffen the suspension. That's why I'm trying to find a middle ground. Could I ask if you know if the ET 44 9 rear wheels would fit well in the 528i or if it is different from that? 535 ?
|
| chancho (498hp) | Quote: Originally posted by msadekf10 May I ask if you know if the ET 44 9 rear wheels would fit well in the 528i or if they are different from the 535? All F10s share the same frame/body configuration (except for some differences in the front and rear bumpers), so there is no difference in fit between the 528i and 535i in terms of wheel fitment. The only thing I notice is that the 9 ET44 wheels are slightly recessed compared to the front wheels (about 5mm). This shouldn't be a problem on the rear wheels. Still, you may want to add a 10mm spacer to the rear wheels to make it look a little more aggressive. I run a 9.5 ET 35 wheel at the rear with no friction problems (with 275/35/19 tires).).
|
| vball14 (259hp) | Thanks guys for the help, I took a different approach mainly due to fear of road quality. I chose the 610 style rims in conjunction with Pirelli P ZERO without RFT. f: 8.5j ET 33 245/45 r19 R: 9j ET 44 275/40 r19 I set the side wall a little higher and it works much better than I expected. After changing the tire, I did an alignment and drove it. I hit +130mph and the car just feels like it's on a train track. It's now much smoother on rough roads than on an '18 RFT (feels like I was driving). for 17). Due to the larger wheel radius, it became slightly less nimble and the body roll increased slightly. At 30 psi front and 33 psi rear the contact area is maximized and further. The wheel spacing is now about 2-3 cm, while the car is about 1 cm higher. I'll try to post better pictures tomorrow morning when the lighting is better.
|
| bmw318is (851hp) | Important update, I tried different tire pressure combinations for my setup. At 30 psi all around, body roll is significantly reduced, making the car nimble at the front and very grippy at the rear. I never thought such a small difference would change the car's feel so much, and I have no idea why BMW recommends increasing the rear tire pressure.
.
|
All times are GMT -5. The time now is 01:58 AM.
