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| frostbite (514hp) | So I understand that the N63 - especially the pre-2013 TU model - is notorious for a variety of problems. I'm currently trying to find an F10 550i in the $10,000 range or less in my area. I know this is a bit rare and risky, but I have other options if I don't think I would find something worth looking at. Of course, any N63 has a high risk after 100,000 miles, but I have been told many times that there are no defects and the car was taken as long as the oil was changed regularly every 2,500-3,500 and you take good care of it, it shouldn't be a problem. Of course, one of the most important factors is how well the owner cares for the car. I just found a deal that's actually within my reach and really excites me, but also scares me...it's a 2012 550i with 150,000 miles listed with the M Sport package for $8,000. Normally I would have put my enthusiasm for this car on hold because of the risky mileage, but I got the VIN from the guy and thoroughly inspected the CarFax. From what I saw, the car has undergone extensive preventive maintenance and each owner (there have been four) has had the oil changed at intervals between 2,500 and 4,000 miles. Just the fact that I haven't even seen an F10 550i that has more than 150,000 has me worried. Another part that unfortunately catches my eye is the cinnamon colored interior. I haven't seen a viable option in this interior color and I absolutely love it. From the pictures, everything inside and outside the car appears visually flawless, including the engine compartment. However, the mileage. This is what's killing me. I would definitely be more comfortable with a 535i with 150,000 km than a 550i with 150,000 km, but I would definitely choose the 50i over the 35i if they were both around 100-130,000 because of what I was originally looking for was after a 50i and I was looking for the performance of the N63. I've been researching it a lot lately, but I know if I owned it I would definitely love it. Given all of this, is there a realistic chance that this will turn out positively for me if I buy it? And more importantly, is it even a good idea? Thanks!
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| james27 (489hp) | Four owners over 10 years (about 2 1/2 years each)? It seems that everyone is taking the N63 can on the street.
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| maimaiyeuem (120hp) | I ran into a very similar situation. It was a 2013 550i with 1 owner and 133,000 miles. However, there was absolutely nothing in CARFAX about maintenance work. But considering it was only one owner, I took a closer look. I've owned my F10 535 for almost 5 years, so I'm already familiar with the driving dynamics and what to expect. This 550 drove like a dream and seemed very well maintained. My point in this story is that when examining a car there are several factors and variables that must be considered and even ignored. I bought my F25 N55 with 88,000 miles, 1 owner, and whoever had it went to the dealer for all maintenance (including VCG and oil pan gasket!). In your case I can ignore the mileage if the car has been carefully maintained, but I think four owners is a bit too many. Until I walked away from the car (which I did). But four owners could mean many things. Did these owners buy a car they couldn't afford? Was maintaining the car itself a hassle for them? Or was the car a headache with multiple problems? It's hard to say. Another factor I consider is the original owner. I check how many miles the original owner drove it compared to the time he owned it. I had a 135i with 3 previous owners, but the first owner owned it for 70,000 miles in the first 7 years. That means this car has likely endured the same driving conditions for the first 7 years or 70,000 miles of its life. This is a big deal. 7 years means someone has probably really enjoyed and cared for this car. I can go on, but I think you get the point. Hopefully you can use this in your decision making.
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| bones2 (21hp) | For this price, I would personally say it's worth the risk. I would personally look at it and make sure there are no warning signs like strange engine noises, sluggish suspension components, or not working air conditioning.
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| myboo (556hp) | Quote: Originally posted by SWFLf10 For this price, I would personally say it's worth the risk. I would personally look at it and make sure there are no warning signs like strange engine noises, sluggish suspension components, or not working air conditioning. Since the OP is looking for a car under $10,000, I doubt he has the money for anything larger that would come up. If he did that, he could easily find a more recent example.
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| rose11 (141hp) | Thank you everyone for your advice! I took it to heart and deviated from it. However, I will look at another listing of a 550i with 115,000 miles (still quite a bit, but not 150,000) for about the same price. Let's hope things work out well in the long run!
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| 143637 (160hp) | If you take the time to save up to 15,000 to 20,000 miles, you'll have a better outlook with cars that are likely to be better maintained and get fewer miles on them. Or, if possible, consider an extended warranty if that's an option for you. N63TUs are post 2012 and have fewer problems than the N63. A free Vin decoder is also available. Just enter a BMW Vin decoder. You can then determine exactly which packages you need and ensure the engine is from the year you are looking for.
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| sammie01 (399hp) | So I understand that the N63 - especially the pre-2013 TU model - is notorious for a variety of problems. I'm currently trying to find an F10 550i in the $10,000 range or less in my area. I know this is a bit rare and risky, but I have other options if I don't think I would find something worth looking at. Of course, any N63 has a high risk after 100,000 miles, but I have been told many times that there are no defects and the car was taken as long as the oil was changed regularly every 2,500-3,500 and you take good care of it, it shouldn't be a problem. Of course, one of the most important factors is how well the owner cares for the car. I just found a deal that's actually within my reach and really excites me, but also scares me...it's a 2012 550i with 150,000 miles listed with the M Sport package for $8,000. Normally I would have put my enthusiasm for this car on hold because of the risky mileage, but I got the VIN from the guy and thoroughly inspected the CarFax. From what I saw, the car has undergone extensive preventive maintenance and each owner (there have been four) has had the oil changed at intervals between 2,500 and 4,000 miles. Just the fact that I haven't even seen an F10 550i that has more than 150,000 has me worried. Another part that unfortunately catches my eye is the cinnamon colored interior. I haven't seen a viable option in this interior color and I absolutely love it. From the pictures, everything inside and outside the car appears visually flawless, including the engine compartment. However, the mileage. This is what's killing me. I would definitely be more comfortable with a 535i with 150,000 km than a 550i with 150,000 km, but I would definitely choose the 50i over the 35i if they were both around 100-130,000 because of what I was originally looking for was after a 50i and I was looking for the performance of the N63. I've been researching it a lot lately, but I know if I owned it I would definitely love it. Given all of this, is there a realistic chance that this will turn out positively for me if I buy it? And more importantly, is it even a good idea? Thanks!
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| points (540hp) | Four owners over 10 years (about 2 1/2 years each)? It seems that everyone is taking the N63 can on the street.
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| 21051985 (856hp) | I ran into a very similar situation. It was a 2013 550i with 1 owner and 133,000 miles. However, there was absolutely nothing in CARFAX about maintenance work. But considering it was only one owner, I took a closer look. I've owned my F10 535 for almost 5 years, so I'm already familiar with the driving dynamics and what to expect. This 550 drove like a dream and seemed very well maintained. My point in this story is that when examining a car there are several factors and variables that must be considered and even ignored. I bought my F25 N55 with 88,000 miles, 1 owner, and whoever had it went to the dealer for all maintenance (including VCG and oil pan gasket!). In your case I can ignore the mileage if the car has been carefully maintained, but I think four owners is a bit too many. Until I walked away from the car (which I did). But four owners could mean many things. Did these owners buy a car they couldn't afford? Was maintaining the car itself a hassle for them? Or was the car a headache with multiple problems? It's hard to say. Another factor I consider is the original owner. I check how many miles the original owner drove it compared to the time he owned it. I had a 135i with 3 previous owners, but the first owner owned it for 70,000 miles in the first 7 years. That means this car has likely endured the same driving conditions for the first 7 years or 70,000 miles of its life. This is a big deal. 7 years means someone has probably really enjoyed and cared for this car. I can go on, but I think you get the point. Hopefully you can use this in your decision making.
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| 199595 (22hp) | For this price, I would personally say it's worth the risk. I would personally look at it and make sure there are no warning signs like strange engine noises, sluggish suspension components, or not working air conditioning.
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| 231282 (389hp) | Quote: Originally posted by SWFLf10 For this price, I would personally say it's worth the risk. I would personally look at it and make sure there are no warning signs like strange engine noises, sluggish suspension components, or not working air conditioning. Since the OP is looking for a car under $10,000, I doubt he has the money for anything larger that would come up. If he did that, he could easily find a more recent example.
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| Ryan335 (904hp) | Thank you everyone for your advice! I took it to heart and deviated from it. However, I will look at another listing of a 550i with 115,000 miles (still quite a bit, but not 150,000) for about the same price. Let's hope things work out well in the long run!
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| 22121986 (356hp) | If you take the time to save up to 15,000 to 20,000 miles, you'll have a better outlook with cars that are likely to be better maintained and get fewer miles on them. Or, if possible, consider an extended warranty if that's an option for you. N63TUs are post 2012 and have fewer problems than the N63. A free Vin decoder is also available. Just enter a BMW Vin decoder. You can then determine exactly which packages you need and ensure the engine is from the year you are looking for.
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| 100398 (254hp) | Hello, just bought a 2014 550i with 70,000 miles. Everything is perfect except for the first cold start which takes 3-4 seconds, all subsequent starts are instant. It has never started. Battery brand new. 1. BMW is trying to figure out what to test?
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| gady123 (743hp) | Sounds like HPFP.
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| 14121993 (735hp) | Quote: Originally posted by 550iboo Hello, just purchased a 2014 550i with 70,000 miles. Everything is perfect except for the first cold start which takes 3-4 seconds, all subsequent starts are instant. It has never started. Battery brand new. 1. BMW is trying to figure out what to test? Driving fun) If you are bored, increase the power)
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| 1qwerty7 (841hp) | Quote: Originally written by Houranimd49. Sounds like HPFP. Ok, I'll take a look at that, thanks
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| ginger88 (485hp) | Quote: Originally written by Houranimd49. Sounds like HPFP. So the more I tested, the more unsure I am about whether it is the HPFP and I don't want to start ordering without certainty. If it were HPFP I would most likely get some dropouts/rough idling and definitely some codes. ISTA+ returns no codes and no check engine lights. The power is also there at Redline. If it were truly HPFP, there would be at least one case of power loss in the upper RPM range, and I've been driving daily for a week and never had a power loss. Battery and alternator/starter have been tested. Everyone passed. Damn, I'm really at a loss here..
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| hunt (964hp) | You're right. And I'm stupid. I'm stupid because I had the same problem with my 135 back then. Granted the engine is different but I had the same issue which was actually fixed when I replaced the Valvetronic engine in it. It clicked when locking/unlocking, and I also had the same problems you described. Up until the change, I also had absolute shit on my fuel consumption. I guess that might be another thing to investigate. I hope someone else can chime in because I don't want to give you misinformation. I'm just going by my experience.
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| 211183 (399hp) | Hello, just bought a 2014 550i with 70,000 miles. Everything is perfect except for the first cold start which takes 3-4 seconds, all subsequent starts are instant. It has never started. Battery brand new. 1. BMW is trying to figure out what to test?
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| buggie (306hp) | Sounds like HPFP.
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| 111191 (687hp) | Quote: Originally posted by 550iboo Hello, just purchased a 2014 550i with 70,000 miles. Everything is perfect except for the first cold start which takes 3-4 seconds, all subsequent starts are instant. It has never started. Battery brand new. 1. BMW is trying to figure out what to test? Driving fun) If you are bored, increase the power)
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| boggie (870hp) | Quote: Originally written by Houranimd49. Sounds like HPFP. Ok, I'll take a look at that, thanks
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| buckfast (932hp) | Quote: Originally written by Houranimd49. Sounds like HPFP. So the more I tested, the more unsure I am about whether it is the HPFP and I don't want to start ordering without certainty. If it were HPFP I would most likely get some dropouts/rough idling and definitely some codes. ISTA+ returns no codes and no check engine lights. The power is also there at Redline. If it were truly HPFP, there would be at least one case of power loss in the upper RPM range, and I've been driving daily for a week and never had a power loss. Battery and alternator/starter have been tested. Everyone passed. Damn, I'm really at a loss here..
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| hacienda (705hp) | You're right. And I'm stupid. I'm stupid because I had the same problem with my 135 back then. Granted the engine is different but I had the same issue which was actually fixed when I replaced the Valvetronic engine in it. It clicked when locking/unlocking, and I also had the same problems you described. Until the change, I had absolutely terrible fuel consumption. I think that might be another thing to investigate. I hope someone else can chime in because I don't want to give you misinformation. I'm just going by my experience.
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| 6767 (619hp) | My passenger restraint light comes on when someone happens to be in the passenger seat, goes off, and comes back on while I'm driving it. Very annoying as the sound of the error is annoying on BMW but it's only just happening. I replaced the subwoofer like a month ago. Could something have caused this, or is it just a faulty seat sensor? I can't read the code because it disappears…
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| class05 (186hp) | My passenger restraint light comes on when someone happens to be in the passenger seat, goes off, and comes back on while I'm driving it. Very annoying as the sound of the error is annoying on BMW but it's only just happening. I replaced the subwoofer like a month ago. Could something have caused this, or is it just a faulty seat sensor? I can't read the code because it disappears…
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| dragster1 (964hp) | Hello. Had a bad day here in Southwest Florida on Sunday. Was in a neighborhood and the heavens opened up. It wasn't a problem driving through the streets for the first 5-10 minutes, then water started to collect. It seemed like we got 3 inches of rain in 40 minutes. Long story short: I drove through an intersection and the water was higher than expected - maybe 10cm? The car stopped and the rain rose to just below the edge of the door on my 2012 535i...so maybe 6 inches? I haven't tried restarting it. Towed it to the dealer to have it checked out. According to my service advisor the engine was pressurized but it was not holding pressure. They claimed it was hydraulically blocked. That was Monday. The insurance is on the way, it will most likely be covered by comprehensive insurance. Maybe a new engine, maybe a total loss. My question: Where exactly are the air intakes on a 2012 535i 6-cylinder twin turbo that sucked in so much water? My service tech said they were low, but how low? There are also reports on this forum that the engine started after drying for a while. Pretty remote possibility? Thank you. I looked at other similar stories on this forum and they were very helpful!
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| jandi (937hp) | Directly behind the kidney grilles.
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| ///M_alwaysWins (871hp) | The intercooler sits very low. Bottom of the bumper. The grill under the kidneys.
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| jellogwapo (421hp) | I'm very afraid of being in a similar area
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| zimmerman (716hp) | Most hydrolocked engines are salvageable unless they have been filled with water for an extended period of time. If your insurance is involved, the total amount will be charged.
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| angelo12 (549hp) | There is only one intake on your single-turbo N55 and it is definitely higher than 6 inches from the ground.
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| dynamic1 (868hp) | Assuming the water level is 15 cm, the actual height after the first plowing can easily double this height
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| duhast (488hp) | Quote: Originally written by mdourney Hello, there. Had a bad day here in Southwest Florida on Sunday. Was in a neighborhood and the heavens opened up. It wasn't a problem driving through the streets for the first 5-10 minutes, then water started to collect. It seemed like we got 3 inches of rain in 40 minutes. Long story short: I drove through an intersection and the water was higher than expected - maybe 10cm? The car stopped and the rain rose to just below the edge of the door on my 2012 535i...so maybe 6 inches? I haven't tried restarting it. Towed it to the dealer to have it checked out. According to my service advisor the engine was pressurized but it was not holding pressure. They claimed it was hydraulically blocked. That was Monday. The insurance is on the way, it will most likely be covered by comprehensive insurance. Maybe a new engine, maybe a total loss. My question: Where exactly are the air intakes on a 2012 535i 6-cylinder twin turbo that sucked in so much water? My service tech said they were low, but how low? There are also reports on this forum that the engine started after drying for a while. Pretty remote possibility? Thank you. I looked at other similar stories on this forum and they were very helpful! The same thing happened to me, my engine is v8. After it stalled, I cranked it a few times but it didn't work. Towed to the dealer who charged 24k for the new engine, towed to a 3rd party mechanic and he changed the air filter and spark plugs, removed the water from the intake and started the engine. Engine runs well
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| 241181 (600hp) | I forgot to tie it off here. First of all, thank you very much for the information. At the end of the day, the insurance company totaled the car. Gave me good value for money for the vehicle, but I was still very disappointed that I drowned out the car... I'm a more reserved guy and really enjoyed and looked after the vehicle (regardless of the Water torture).!).
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| gopal (952hp) | Quote: Originally written by mdourney. I forgot to tie this off. First of all, thank you very much for the information. At the end of the day, the insurance company totaled the car. Gave me good value for money for the vehicle, but I was still very disappointed that I oversold the car. I'm a reserved guy and really enjoyed and looked after the vehicle (water torture notwithstanding!). I'm sorry to read, but I'm glad the insurance company seems to be working with you. Hopefully the swap isn't too hard... you stay with the same make/model or switch to something different?
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| chivas3 (336hp) | Hello. Had a bad day here in Southwest Florida on Sunday. Was in a neighborhood and the heavens opened up. It wasn't a problem driving through the streets for the first 5-10 minutes, then water started to collect. It seemed like we got 3 inches of rain in 40 minutes. Long story short: I drove through an intersection and the water was higher than expected - maybe 10cm? The car stopped and the rain rose to just below the edge of the door on my 2012 535i...so maybe 6 inches? I haven't tried restarting it. Towed it to the dealer to have it checked out. According to my service advisor the engine was pressurized but it was not holding pressure. They claimed it was hydraulically blocked. That was Monday. The insurance is on the way, it will most likely be covered by comprehensive insurance. Maybe a new engine, maybe a total loss. My question: Where exactly are the air intakes on a 2012 535i 6-cylinder twin turbo that sucked in so much water? My service tech said they were low, but how low? There are also reports on this forum that the engine started after drying for a while. Pretty remote possibility? Thank you. I looked at other similar stories on this forum and they were very helpful!
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| bitches12 (334hp) | Directly behind the kidney grilles.
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| mary13 (276hp) | The intercooler sits very low. Bottom of the bumper. The grill under the kidneys.
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| oguzhan (181hp) | I'm very afraid of being in a similar area
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| class2013 (513hp) | Most hydrolocked engines are salvageable unless they have been filled with water for an extended period of time. If your insurance is involved, the total amount will be charged.
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| chopper123 (537hp) | There is only one intake on your single-turbo N55 and it is definitely higher than 6 inches from the ground.
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| warcraft2 (539hp) | Assuming the water level is 15 cm, the actual height after the first plowing can easily double this height
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| sunset7 (76hp) | Quote: Originally written by mdourney Hello, there. Had a bad day here in Southwest Florida on Sunday. Was in a neighborhood and the heavens opened up. It wasn't a problem driving through the streets for the first 5-10 minutes, then water started to collect. It seemed like we got 3 inches of rain in 40 minutes. Long story short: I drove through an intersection and the water was higher than expected - maybe 10cm? The car stopped and the rain rose to just below the edge of the door on my 2012 535i...so maybe 6 inches? I haven't tried restarting it. Towed it to the dealer to have it checked out. According to my service advisor the engine was pressurized but it was not holding pressure. They claimed it was hydraulically blocked. That was Monday. The insurance is on the way, it will most likely be covered by comprehensive insurance. Maybe a new engine, maybe a total loss. My question: Where exactly are the air intakes on a 2012 535i 6-cylinder twin turbo that sucked in so much water? My service tech said they were low, but how low? There are also reports on this forum that the engine started after drying for a while. Pretty remote possibility? Thank you. I looked at other similar stories on this forum and they were very helpful! The same thing happened to me, my engine is v8. After it stalled, I cranked it a few times but it didn't work. Towed to the dealer who charged 24k for the new engine, towed to a 3rd party mechanic and he changed the air filter and spark plugs, removed the water from the intake and started the engine. Engine runs well
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| chucho1 (918hp) | I forgot to tie it off here. First of all, thank you very much for the information. At the end of the day, the insurance company totaled the car. Gave me good value for money for the vehicle, but I was still very disappointed that I drowned out the car... I'm a more reserved guy and really enjoyed and looked after the vehicle (regardless of the Water torture).!).
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| oops (450hp) | Quote: Originally written by mdourney. I forgot to tie this off. First of all, thank you very much for the information. At the end of the day, the insurance company totaled the car. Gave me good value for money for the vehicle, but I was still very disappointed that I oversold the car. I'm a reserved guy and really enjoyed and looked after the vehicle (water torture notwithstanding!). I'm sorry to read, but I'm glad the insurance company seems to be working with you. Hopefully the swap isn't too hard... you stay with the same make/model or switch to something different?
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| slipknot21 (850hp) | Hello everyone, my air conditioning is not working consistently now. Sometimes it cools down and then most of the time it doesn't. 2014 535xi. Some notes: - Compressor and alternator were replaced late last year. - No ISTA+ codes. Deleted + still no codes showing up. - All air filters were replaced last month. - Did a full freon flush with dye last month, no dye showed up anywhere so there is no leak. The pressure holds. I think it could be the blower motor or the capacitor, but the latter looks good. Any suggestions on what to check? I'm in NYC if that's relevant. Thanks in advance!
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| kisame (431hp) | When you said it wasn't cooling down, you heard a loud muffled noise from the fan and little to no air came out??
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| yluy1981 (149hp) | Quote: Originally posted by Johnkwick, when you said it wasn't cooling, did you hear a loud muffled noise from the fan and little to no air coming out? No noise, airflow is fine. Sometimes the air is just cold, sometimes not. My Indy says it's probably the compressor, condenser or evaporator. Others in local groups say they replaced the blower motor resistor and blower motor. I ordered a few parts without the compressor (since I got a refurbished part last year) so I'm going to figure out what the problem is and then send the rest back. I was hoping that someone who has encountered the same problem could shed some light.
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| 130396 (592hp) | So it could be a problem with the refrigerant. I would first do a visual inspection in the engine compartment, check the low pressure refrigerant line, see if there is any condensation there, and touch it to assess if it is cold enough. Assuming the compressor is working, the absence of these things could be due to a low refrigerant condition. If you have ISTA, monitor IHKA and JBE related sensors such as refrigerant pressure, evaporator temperature, heater core and multiple sensors in the blower. The evaporator temperature should always be low (below 10°C), and also check the core temperature of your heater, because if the temperature constantly stays high (>40°C) it means your heater valves are stuck in the open position, so hot water can flow into the heater core
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| phpbb (292hp) | Hello everyone, my air conditioning is not working consistently now. Sometimes it cools down and then most of the time it doesn't. 2014 535xi. Some notes: - Compressor and alternator were replaced late last year. - No ISTA+ codes. Deleted + still no codes showing up. - All air filters were replaced last month. - Did a full freon flush with dye last month, no dye showed up anywhere so there is no leak. The pressure holds. I think it could be the blower motor or the capacitor, but the latter looks good. Any suggestions on what to check? I'm in NYC if that's relevant. Thanks in advance!
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| jukebox (126hp) | When you said it wasn't cooling down, you heard a loud muffled noise from the fan and little to no air came out??
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| ÑчÑмит (781hp) | Quote: Originally posted by Johnkwick, when you said it wasn't cooling, did you hear a loud muffled noise from the fan and little to no air coming out? No noise, airflow is fine. Sometimes the air is just cold, sometimes not. My Indy says it's probably the compressor, condenser or evaporator. Others in local groups say they replaced the blower motor resistor and blower motor. I ordered a few parts without the compressor (since I got a refurbished part last year) so I'm going to figure out what the problem is and then send the rest back. I was hoping that someone who has encountered the same problem could shed some light.
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| sdsadEE23 (434hp) | So it could be a problem with the refrigerant. I would first do a visual inspection in the engine compartment, check the low pressure refrigerant line, see if there is any condensation there, and touch it to assess if it is cold enough. Assuming the compressor is working, the absence of these things could be due to a low refrigerant condition. If you have ISTA, monitor IHKA and JBE related sensors such as refrigerant pressure, evaporator temperature, heater core and multiple sensors in the blower. The evaporator temperature should always be low (below 10°C), and also check the core temperature of your heater, because if the temperature constantly stays high (>40°C) it means your heater valves are stuck in the open position, so hot water can flow into the heater core
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| 25101978 (74hp) | Hello everyone, I have a little problem right now. I recently changed my oil. When I do this every 2,500 miles my car starts making a loud whining noise when I step on the accelerator between 1,500 and 2,800 RPM, which disappears at over 3,000 RPM and beyond. There has also been a knocking noise since the oil change, but it doesn't sound like a rod knock. I rebuilt the engine 9,000 miles ago due to a spun connecting rod bearing. Almost everything from the head down was replaced. No oil leaks, spark plugs are dry - everything seems fine. The knocking sound doesn't sound like a rod noise since I went through this 9,000 miles ago, and this time the knocking sound is MUCH different than rod knocking. I would be grateful for suggestions. Vanos? Injectors? Wash? Valves? Please watch the 3 videos on the topic of noise. Thanks, Tony https://youtube.com/shorts/G5y-9ehM1Dw https://youtube.com/shorts/E2V7qLJz8dU https://youtube.com/shorts/03wqiW0jJDQ?feature=share **Update - When the car comes Warm at almost exactly 200 degrees the whining begins. As long as the car has not completely cooled down, the noise will continue. Any thoughts??
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| 180289 (803hp) | Just a crazy idea based on some things I've seen online over the years. Look for a broken oil filter. Is the plastic support cage that fits into the core of the filter (which is part of the oil filter housing cover) missing? Maybe the old filter broke off? Did you use an original Mann (or Mahle or Hengst) oil filter? I'm absolutely sure it's the right part#?
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| arsen (398hp) | Quote: Originally written by Surly73. Just a crazy idea based on some things I've seen online over the years. Look for a broken oil filter. Is the plastic support cage that fits into the core of the filter (which is part of the oil filter housing cover) missing? Maybe the old filter broke off? Did you use an original Mann (or Mahle or Hengst) oil filter? Absolutely sure this is the correct part number? Yes, I checked the filter and cage, both fine. It is a stallion from FCP oil change kit. I even checked to see if I had any metal shards that would indicate bearing failure, but nothing. The last time the bearing came loose there was a lot of metal in the oil filter area.
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| vovchik (391hp) | PCV?
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| yousuck123 (286hp) | Quote: Originally posted by StradaRedlands PCV? Would the diameter of the valve cover really cause the noise I'm experiencing? I went through it again today and still can't find the problem. Maybe it's time for a new car
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| water4 (545hp) | Quote: Originally posted by lastotony Would the diameter of the valve cover really make the noise I'm experiencing? I went through it again today and still can't find the problem. Maybe new car. Mine sounded like something between your noise and the one at the beginning of the video. Just a guess. Try opening the oil filler cap while driving. If there isn't a strong vacuum keeping it closed, then that could be the problem.
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| 070797 (854hp) | Quote: Originally posted by StradaRedlands. Mine sounded like something between your noise and the one at the beginning of the video. Just a guess. Try opening the oil filler cap while driving. If there isn't a strong vacuum keeping it closed, then that could be the problem. I tried it and it has a good vacuum. It doesn't happen when idling, only when accelerating between 1500 and 2500 rpm. See the attached video https://youtube.com/shorts/03wqiW0jJDQ?feature=share
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| peewee (19hp) | Quote: Originally posted by lastotony Tried this and it has a good vacuum. It doesn't happen when idling, only when accelerating between 1500 and 2500 rpm. See the attached video: https://youtube.com/shorts/03wqiW0jJDQ?feature=share. Because of the sound I would still use the PCV. Any codes?
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| greedy1 (449hp) | Quote: Originally posted by StradaRedlands I would still choose the PCV based on the sound. Any codes? No codes. What's really strange is that the engine doesn't make any noise when cold. The noise only occurs when the temperature is reached.
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| 04041985 (328hp) | Yes, I have nothing... although I think PCV doesn't always have to throw codes.
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| 102100 (195hp) | If it is the PCV, the noise can be stopped by removing the oil cap (if possible). Easy to check.
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| goldenbrown (813hp) | Quote: Originally written by Surly73. If it is the PCV, the noise can be stopped by removing the oil cap (if possible). Easy to check. I ordered a new valve cover and installed it today. When I disassembled it I decided to remove the injectors and clean them along with the coils and in cylinder 5 the spark plug tube was completely filled with oil. See photo. I haven't had a chance to start the car yet, but I have replaced the spark plug cap and ignition coil along with all new spark plug tube seals 1 through 6. Tomorrow I will make the adjustments and crank it up and see if my noises match the valve cover and the cylinder won't fire resulting in a rattling noise.
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| uda (381hp) | I made the adjustments today and started the car and NOTHING has changed. The howling is still there and the knocking is there. I checked the old valve cover and found it was cracked, but again the problem couldn't be fixed. The knocking sound is not always as audible as when the bar was previously knocked. When I put it in drive mode, hold the brake and increase the speed to 2000 rpm, there is no knocking sound. If it was a rod knock, would the noise not be present and would increase with RPM?? Can someone please chime in and share something valuable? I'm at a loss and don't want to continue spending money trying to repair all the parts I did a year ago. At this point I can sell it as is. I'm not sure if I want to rebuild the engine again. Aside from what's going on under the hood, the car is in near perfect condition for its age
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| precious01 (903hp) | Quote: Originally posted by lastotony I made the adjustments today and started the car and NOTHING has changed. The howling is still there and the knocking is there. I checked the old valve cover and found it was cracked, but again the problem couldn't be fixed. The knocking sound is not always as audible as when the bar was previously knocked. When I put it in drive mode, hold the brake and increase the speed to 2000 rpm, there is no knocking sound. If it was a rod knock, would the noise not be present and would increase with RPM?? Can someone please chime in and share something valuable? I'm at a loss and don't want to continue spending money trying to repair all the parts I did a year ago. At this point I can sell it as is. I'm not sure if I want to rebuild the engine again. The car is in pretty much perfect condition for its age, except for what's going on under the hood. Well, that sucks, but at least you fixed the tear in your diaphragm. Is there a good independent shop in Europe you can take it to? A thorough diagnosis is cheaper than a new car!
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| fond (120hp) | Quote: Originally posted by StradaRedlands Well that sucks, but at least you addressed the diaphragm tear. Is there a good independent shop in Europe you can take it to? A complete diagnosis is cheaper than a new car! I have a man I can go to. I drove the car this morning when it was cold, no whining or knocking noises. Made me so frustrated. When the car reaches temperature it begins to react
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| lola23 (173hp) | Hello everyone, I have a little problem right now. I recently changed my oil. When I do this every 2,500 miles my car starts making a loud whining noise when I step on the accelerator between 1,500 and 2,800 RPM, which disappears at over 3,000 RPM and beyond. There has also been a knocking noise since the oil change, but it doesn't sound like a rod knock. I rebuilt the engine 9,000 miles ago due to a spun connecting rod bearing. Almost everything from the head down was replaced. No oil leaks, spark plugs are dry - everything seems fine. The knocking sound doesn't sound like a rod noise since I went through this 9,000 miles ago, and this time the knocking sound is MUCH different than rod knocking. I would be grateful for suggestions. Vanos? Injectors? Wash? Valves? Please watch the 3 videos on the topic of noise. Thanks, Tony https://youtube.com/shorts/G5y-9ehM1Dw https://youtube.com/shorts/E2V7qLJz8dU https://youtube.com/shorts/03wqiW0jJDQ?feature=share **Update - When the car comes Warm at almost exactly 200 degrees the whining begins. As long as the car has not completely cooled down, the noise will continue. Any thoughts??
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| BenTrovato (515hp) | Just a crazy idea based on some things I've seen online over the years. Look for a broken oil filter. Is the plastic support cage that fits into the core of the filter (which is part of the oil filter housing cover) missing? Maybe the old filter broke off? Did you use an original Mann (or Mahle or Hengst) oil filter? I'm absolutely sure it's the right part#?
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| slainte (467hp) | Quote: Originally written by Surly73. Just a crazy idea based on some things I've seen online over the years. Look for a broken oil filter. Is the plastic support cage that fits into the core of the filter (which is part of the oil filter housing cover) missing? Maybe the old filter broke off? Did you use an original Mann (or Mahle or Hengst) oil filter? Absolutely sure this is the correct part number? Yes, I checked the filter and cage, both fine. It is a stallion from FCP oil change kit. I even checked to see if I had any metal shards that would indicate bearing failure, but nothing. The last time the bearing came loose there was a lot of metal in the oil filter area.
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| 18011994 (736hp) | PCV?
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| nodrog (746hp) | Quote: Originally posted by StradaRedlands PCV? Would the diameter of the valve cover really cause the noise I'm experiencing? I went through it again today and still can't find the problem. Maybe it's time for a new car
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| faisalabad (940hp) | Quote: Originally posted by lastotony Would the diameter of the valve cover really make the noise I'm experiencing? I went through it again today and still can't find the problem. Maybe new car. Mine sounded like something between your noise and the one at the beginning of the video. Just a guess. Try opening the oil filler cap while driving. If there isn't a strong vacuum keeping it closed, then that could be the problem.
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| xsw2zaq1 (336hp) | Quote: Originally posted by StradaRedlands. Mine sounded like something between your noise and the one at the beginning of the video. Just a guess. Try opening the oil filler cap while driving. If there isn't a strong vacuum keeping it closed, then that could be the problem. I tried it and it has a good vacuum. It doesn't happen when idling, only when accelerating between 1500 and 2500 rpm. See the attached video https://youtube.com/shorts/03wqiW0jJDQ?feature=share
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| lilies (123hp) | Quote: Originally posted by lastotony Tried this and it has a good vacuum. It doesn't happen when idling, only when accelerating between 1500 and 2500 rpm. See the attached video: https://youtube.com/shorts/03wqiW0jJDQ?feature=share. Because of the sound I would still use the PCV. Any codes?
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| 130696 (312hp) | Quote: Originally posted by StradaRedlands I would still choose the PCV based on the sound. Any codes? No codes. What's really strange is that the engine doesn't make any noise when cold. The noise only occurs when the temperature is reached.
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| harley10 (312hp) | Yes, I have nothing... although I think PCV doesn't always have to throw codes.
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| 31031990 (689hp) | If it is the PCV, the noise can be stopped by removing the oil cap (if possible). Easy to check.
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| 356roadster (116hp) | Quote: Originally written by Surly73. If it is the PCV, the noise can be stopped by removing the oil cap (if possible). Easy to check. I ordered a new valve cover and installed it today. When I disassembled it I decided to remove the injectors and clean them along with the coils and in cylinder 5 the spark plug tube was completely filled with oil. See photo. I haven't had a chance to start the car yet, but I have replaced the spark plug cap and ignition coil along with all new spark plug tube seals 1 through 6. Tomorrow I will make the adjustments and crank it up and see if my noises match the valve cover and the cylinder won't fire resulting in a rattling noise.
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| 15935746 (504hp) | I made the adjustments today and started the car and NOTHING has changed. The howling is still there and the knocking is there. I checked the old valve cover and found it was cracked, but again the problem couldn't be fixed. The knocking sound is not always as audible as when the bar was previously knocked. When I put it in drive mode, hold the brake and increase the speed to 2000 rpm, there is no knocking sound. If it was a rod knock, would the noise not be present and would increase with RPM?? Can someone please chime in and share something valuable? I'm at a loss and don't want to continue spending money trying to repair all the parts I did a year ago. At this point I can sell it as is. I'm not sure if I want to rebuild the engine again. Aside from what's going on under the hood, the car is in near perfect condition for its age
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| 010279 (971hp) | Quote: Originally posted by lastotony I made the adjustments today and started the car and NOTHING has changed. The howling is still there and the knocking is there. I checked the old valve cover and found it was cracked, but again the problem couldn't be fixed. The knocking sound is not always as audible as when the bar was previously knocked. When I put it in drive mode, hold the brake and increase the speed to 2000 rpm, there is no knocking sound. If it was a rod knock, would the noise not be present and would increase with RPM?? Can someone please chime in and share something valuable? I'm at a loss and don't want to continue spending money trying to repair all the parts I did a year ago. At this point I can sell it as is. I'm not sure if I want to rebuild the engine again. The car is in pretty much perfect condition for its age, except for what's going on under the hood. Well, that sucks, but at least you fixed the tear in your diaphragm. Is there a good independent shop in Europe you can take it to? A thorough diagnosis is cheaper than a new car!
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| 19021991 (53hp) | Quote: Originally posted by StradaRedlands Well that sucks, but at least you addressed the diaphragm tear. Is there a good independent shop in Europe you can take it to? A complete diagnosis is cheaper than a new car! I have a man I can go to. I drove the car this morning when it was cold, no whining or knocking noises. Made me so frustrated. When the car reaches temperature it begins to react
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| alaska11 (827hp) | Hello, I am new to both this forum and BMW. I'm looking for a used F11 520d LCI with B47. There is a 518d for sale for a lot less money and the owner says he has the original 520d map on the engine and gearbox. As far as I know, it's the same engine but tuned down for economy or whatever. So my questions are: Is it that simple? Is it now the same car as the 520d? Is this safe for the car (engine/transmission) and is it still possible/safe to tune it further? Since my original plan was to buy 520d and put some Stage1 in it. Thanks in advance and I'm sorry if it's a repost and I missed it.
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| 821125 (933hp) | I'm not sure, but the turbo on the 518 might be a little smaller than the 520.
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| 16031986 (501hp) | I searched realoem.com for engine block, piston and turbo - they are all the same part number. My guess is that doing this tune-up is a viable option and something you could do - but whether that actually happened to your car is another question!
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| pass-word (928hp) | And you can get more out of it than just the performance of the 520d. I have a simple 520d map on mine and it's around 230hp/450Nm + XHP at the gearbox. You should achieve the same thing with 518d.
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| jacob15 (543hp) | Hello, I'm new to both this forum and BMW. I'm looking for a used F11 520d LCI with B47. There is a 518d for sale for a lot less money and the owner says he has the original 520d map on the engine and gearbox. From what I understand, it's the same engine but tuned down for economy or whatever. So my questions are: Is it that simple? Is it now the same car as the 520d? Is this safe for the car (engine/transmission) and is it still possible/safe to tune it further? Since my original plan was to buy 520d and put some Stage1 in it. Thanks in advance and I'm sorry if it's a repost and I missed it.
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| february24 (970hp) | I'm not sure, but the turbo on the 518 might be a little smaller than the 520.
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| madhavi (399hp) | I searched realoem.com for engine block, piston and turbo - they are all the same part number. My guess is that doing this tune-up is a viable option and something you could do - but whether that actually happened to your car is another question!
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| jc-e89 (121hp) | And you can get more out of it than just the performance of the 520d. I have a simple 520d map on mine and it's around 230hp/450Nm + XHP at the gearbox. You should achieve the same thing with 518d.
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| lisenkogv (719hp) | This noise comes and goes. It disappears when accelerating. It always doesn't start immediately upon startup. We've driven the car for days and it doesn't show up. [URL=https://youtube.com/shorts/Rf2H5pGhTHU?feature=share] Any ideas what the noise is?
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| jacob08 (93hp) | Maybe the turbo pressure converter (the wastegate solenoid valve). Pretty common problem.
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| jab123 (566hp) | Ultimately it was a vacuum leak caused by the valve cover. Replaced VC and everything is fine.
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| majka (810hp) | I just saw this post and without hearing/looking at it I would have said PCV/valve covers! On BMWs it's always the PCV/valve cover...
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| 090890 (496hp) | This noise comes and goes. It disappears when accelerating. It always doesn't start immediately upon startup. We've driven the car for days and it doesn't show up. [URL=https://youtube.com/shorts/Rf2H5pGhTHU?feature=share] Any ideas what the noise is?
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| pasodeblas (41hp) | Maybe the turbo pressure converter (the wastegate solenoid valve). Pretty common problem.
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| sexy04 (125hp) | Ultimately it was a vacuum leak caused by the valve cover. Replaced VC and everything is fine.
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| mygirls4 (197hp) | I just saw this post and without hearing/looking at it I would have said PCV/valve covers! On BMWs it's always the PCV/valve cover...
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| dakota05 (386hp) | I'm posting something here since this article has been discontinued. I will gladly take it out of the hands of anyone who has it.
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| Sako_335 (362hp) | I'm posting something here since this article has been discontinued. I will gladly take it out of the hands of anyone who has it.
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| hahahahaha (748hp) | Hello, I have a problem with a BMW F11 where the trunk lid latch is making a rattling noise. The tailgate is not automatic, but has a soft-close lock. When I open the window and then open and close the trunk lid and look inside at the spot where it is supposed to lock, I see that the soft close pulls the lid but then releases it. Is the normal behavior to slowly pull on it and then let it go a bit, or should it just pull on it and hold it like that? When I pull the lid while closed, it makes a similar noise to the rattling itself, as if it wasn't closed properly. This only happens sometimes and is completely random, meaning it can happen while driving, not when opening and closing the lid. When it happens, it rattles constantly, even when reversing, not just on bumps or something similar. Could someone with a similar model check to see if the lid also pulls and releases when closed? Or if someone else had this problem, how can I fix it? It's very annoying. Thanks!
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| Dukenole (79hp) | Hello, I have a problem with a BMW F11 where the trunk lid latch is making a rattling noise. The tailgate is not automatic, but has a soft-close lock. When I open the window and then open and close the trunk lid and look inside at the spot where it is supposed to lock, I see that the soft close pulls the lid but then releases it. Is the normal behavior to slowly pull on it and then let it go a bit, or should it just pull on it and hold it like that? When I pull the lid while closed, it makes a similar noise to the rattling itself, as if it wasn't closed properly. This only happens sometimes and is completely random, meaning it can happen while driving, not when opening and closing the lid. When it happens, it rattles constantly, even when reversing, not just on bumps or something similar. Could someone with a similar model check to see if the lid also pulls and releases when closed? Or if someone else had this problem, how can I fix it? It's very annoying. Thanks!
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| wewewewe (173hp) | Hi guys, since I've owned the car I've seen a picture or two of a taillight change from all red to the classic white/red combination. My search yields no results, but I find a clear taillight. But that's not my thing. Can anyone point me in the right direction if they know where to buy these taillights? Thanks! -Microphone
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| VirtualS (856hp) | Is that what you're talking about? This is a clear taillight that appears to be two-tone when turned on. I'm not sure if there really are two tones as it's hard to tell when companies advertise this way. Below you can see a video of it in action.
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| 251086 (216hp) | Thanks NMA – but as you said, these are all clear when turned off. I'm looking for the traditional white/clear lens at the top (for the turn signal) and red at the bottom for the brake light. I think you may be right, the product just doesn't exist for our cars (which is sad). Thanks for looking. -Microphone
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| savannah07 (67hp) | Hi guys, since I've owned the car I've seen a picture or two of a taillight change from all red to the classic white/red combination. My search doesn't produce any results, but I find a clear taillight. But that's not my thing. Can anyone point me in the right direction if they know where to buy these taillights? Thanks! -Microphone
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| SEXY (38hp) | Is that what you're talking about? This is a clear taillight that appears to be two-tone when turned on. I'm not sure if there really are two tones as it's hard to tell when companies advertise this way. Below you can see a video of it in action.
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| 260280 (756hp) | Thanks NMA – but as you said, these are all clear when turned off. I'm looking for the traditional white/clear lens at the top (for the turn signal) and red at the bottom for the brake light. I think you may be right, the product just doesn't exist for our cars (which is sad). Thanks for looking. -Microphone
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| wyvern (176hp) | Hi everyone, I have a 2011 F11, was at about 60km/h and idrive reported a transmission problem or something and the car went into limp mode. I stopped and tried to restart but the whole car started shaking and wouldn't drive. After a few times it wouldn't start at all. AA subcontracted it to a local salvage low bed vehicle and provided me with a replacement car. Now I have no idea when I will get the car back but was wondering if you could help me understand what went wrong. The AA guy emailed me this: Does anyone have any idea what went wrong/what kind of repair shop you can take it too/how much it might cost if you ship it back? Thanks in advance for any advice. The patrol located the following error code(s): System: Engine Control 1 - VE0 / Diesel EDC 17 UDS24F700 - Fuel Filter Heater. Error message: Open circuit.25C800 – Exhaust gas pressure sensor. Error message: Drift detected.245700 – Particulate filter system. Error message: Incorrect.247500 – Rail: Plausibility pressure. Error message: Value out of range.247600 - Rail: Plausibility pressure. Error message: Minimum pressure too low.248600 - Rail: Plausibility pressure. Error message: Pressure too low.249300 – Fuel high pressure monitoring (Rail). Error message: Pressure too low when starting. We have arranged for your vehicle to be recovered. Interrupt startup failure. Arrange the return to your home address.
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| garrett (846hp) | Hello! Try this to resolve 25C800 and 245400. This is my post and I hope Google can translate it correctly. This OEM 13627805152 sensor was installed in many BMW diesel engines. https://www.drive2.ru/l/650604120972986106/
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| ashland1 (869hp) | Hi everyone, I have a 2011 F11, was at about 60km/h and idrive reported a transmission problem or something and the car went into limp mode. I stopped and tried to restart but the whole car started shaking and wouldn't drive. After a few times it wouldn't start at all. AA subcontracted it to a local salvage low bed vehicle and provided me with a replacement car. Now I have no idea when I will get the car back but was wondering if you could help me understand what went wrong. The AA guy emailed me this: Does anyone have any idea what went wrong/what kind of repair shop you can take it too/how much it might cost if you ship it back? Thanks in advance for any advice. The patrol located the following error code(s): System: Engine Control 1 - VE0 / Diesel EDC 17 UDS24F700 - Fuel Filter Heater. Error message: Open circuit.25C800 - Exhaust pressure sensor. Error message: Drift detected.245700 – Particulate filter system. Error message: Incorrect.247500 – Rail: Plausibility pressure. Error message: Value out of range.247600 - Rail: Plausibility pressure. Error message: Minimum pressure too low.248600 - Rail: Plausibility pressure. Error message: Pressure too low.249300 – Fuel high pressure monitoring (Rail). Error message: Pressure too low when starting. We have arranged for your vehicle to be recovered. Interrupt startup failure. Arrange the return to your home address.
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| doradora (204hp) | Hello! Try this to resolve 25C800 and 245400. This is my post and I hope Google can translate it correctly. This OEM 13627805152 sensor was installed in many BMW diesel engines. https://www.drive2.ru/l/650604120972986106/
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| sarahm (976hp) | Please note that this is a rear-wheel drive vehicle. If you own an XDrive, there may be some differences in the underbody panels. As you can see in the before and after photos, the conversion is complete. I'm placing this post to be able to show the parts list it took to go from the base model to the M Sport front bumper in case anyone wants to purchase the parts themselves. I am very happy with the change. Enjoy! Here is the list of OEM parts I used in the conversion project: FAIRING COVER, BUMPER, PRIMED, FRONT 51118048670 (THIS IS NOT PDC, NO CAMERA) COVER, TRAILER MOUNT, FRONT, PRIMED 51118048681 (YOU CAN USE THE CURRENT PART AGAIN USE) FLAP PRIME COATED LEFT 51118048679 (THE CURRENT PART YOU CAN REUSE) FLAP PRIME COATED RIGHT 51118048680 (THE CURRENT PART YOU CAN REUSE) TAPE STRAP 51111973721 (THE CURRENT PART REUSE THEM) BLINDING PLUG LEFT 51118050115 (YOU CAN REUSE). Current part) Blind plug right 51118050116 (You can reuse current part) Frame M 51748049347 Side reflector left 63147842959 (You can reuse current part) Side reflector right 63147842960 (You can reuse current part PART) GRILL, AIR INLET, CENTER 51117 903894 GRILL, AIR INLET, LEFT 51117906197 GRILL , AIR INLET, RIGHT 51117906198 COVER, LOWER LEFT 51758045195 COVER, LOWER RIGHT 51758045196 M ENGINE SPACE ENCLOSURE FRONT 2WD 51758035971 M ADAPTER FOR ENGINE ENCLOSURE 51757905276 L FOR AMOeK, LEFT 51747903889 AIR DUCT FOR AMOeK, RIGHT 51747903890 AIR DUCT, FRONT LOWER 51748049708 BRACKET, BUMPER, FRONT, LOWER 51118037631 FOG LIGHT, LEFT 63177839865 FOG LIGHT, RIGHT 63177839866 LONGLIFE BULB H11 55W 63217160784 (TWO OF THEM) FRONT FAIRING, GRILL, BLACK, RIGHT M-PERFORMANCE 51712165528 (DA S CURRENT PART YOU CAN REUSE) FRONT FAIRING GRILL, BLACK, LEFT M-PERFORMANCE 51712165539 (THE CURRENT YOU CAN REUSE THIS PART).)
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| ilya (211hp) | beautifully done. Time for rear wheel + M sports bikes?
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| durian (13hp) | Thank you very much. I need to give my wife a few weeks to get through this four month effort... but I set my rear sides next. The wheels will need to wait another 30,000 miles (when the original tires are likely to be too worn). keep).
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| badlands (531hp) | Quote: Originally written by MWPos. Thank you. I need to give my wife a few weeks to get through this four month effort... but I set my rear sides next. The wheels will need to wait another 30,000 miles (when the original tires are likely to be too worn). keep). How much did this conversion cost? Looks great!
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