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| 123masha (963hp) | Quote: Originally written by jeutaryo Nice car! How does the V8 feel compared to your previous I6? I had downpipes and a level 2 MHD flash tune on my 535i and it was also lighter so it felt pretty quick. The 550i is much quieter and therefore jerkier. The transmission is also significantly better. The peak performance of the V8 is amazing. Once I set it, I'm sure it will be on a different level.
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| redneck7 (102hp) | Quote: Originally written by Kaane. My 2008 535i was recently totaled because the sunroof was leaking due to clogged drains. After two months of arguing with the insurance company, they finally decided to cover the damage. I picked up the replacement yesterday. 2013 550i M Tech. Lease return. Completely optional. Here is the options list. 2ND M L.-aw double spoke 351 M 2TB sports automatic transmission 2VB tire pressure display 258 run-flat tires 3AG reversing camera 316 automatic tailgate operation 319 integrated universal remote control 322 comfort access system 323 soft-close automatic system for doors 337 M sports package 4CE good - wood trim Fineline anthracite 4U1 Ceramic decoration for controls 415 Sun blind for rear window 416 Sun blinds 423 Floor mats, velor 430 Int/ext Rr Vw Mirror W Aut Anti-Blend 431 Interior Rr Vw Mirror W Aut Anti-D 453 Active seat ventilation at the front 455 Active seat F driver and front passenger 456 Comfort seats, electric. Adjustable 465 Through-loading system 488 Lumbar support driver/front passenger 494 Seat heating F Driver/front passenger 5AG Lane change warning 5DL Surround View 508 Park Distance Control (PDC) 522 Xenon light 524 Adaptive cornering light 575 Additional 12 V socket 6AA Bmw Teleservices 6AB Control Teleservices 6NF Ext.con.of The Music Play.i.mobilph 6NL Connect. Bluetooth A.USB devices in 6NR Apps 6UH Traffic information 6WA Instrument cluster W. Extended Cont 609 Navigation system Professional 610 Head-up display 615 Extended BMW online information 655 Satellite radio 677 Hifi system Professional 697 Area code 1 704 M Sports suspension 710 M Leather steering wheel 715 M aerodynamics package 760 Individual High gloss satin chrome 775 Individual headliner anthracite So far I really like the car, the NBT navigation is so much better, the premium sound isn't bad. The seats are fantastic. I was hoping to get the 2014 with N63T but it was out of my budget. Since I have an elevator in the garage, I'm not afraid to take everything apart and fix anything that needs fixing in the future. Are there any other DFW people here? Yes, check out our DFW BMW F10 group. https://www.facebook.com/groups/1418189278452588/
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| blue90 (220hp) | Welcome to the group, have a nice trip. DFW here, Roanoke/Trophy Club area.
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| bellsouth (237hp) | Really nice options and a nice ride!
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| fy (62hp) | Hello everyone, I found out today that one of my tire valve stem caps was stolen. When I got home I checked the tire pressure and found that all four tires were low. I was about to fill the tire but on the instruction manual. It is said that filler gauges may be under-reading by up to 1.45 psi/0.1 bar. I was just wondering if I should inflate the tire to 35 psi (front) 39 psi (rear) minus 1.45 psi? Thanks!! Also, what does the OEM tire air valve stem cap look like? Mine says N2 on the top, black cap. plastic.
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| cowboys24 (425hp) | First: What PSI are you currently reading???
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| matilda1 (709hp) | Quote: Originally posted by lsturbointeg First, what PSI are you reading? 32.4 32.5 (front) 33.1 33.4 (rear)
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| 198619 (72hp) | Due to the cold temperatures today, your tire pressure is probably low. Inflate the tires as recommended in the manual/door jamb sticker and check them with a quality tire pressure gauge that every car owner should have. If possible, they should be filled while still cold. I have a small compressor that I use in my driveway to keep the tires ice cold at all times. You should check your tires every month or before a long trip. I myself am negligent in this regard and besides it is damn cold outside. The 1.45 value seems like a red herring to me - how do you know which inflator is inaccurate? Use your own measuring device. I would rather fill the tires with my gauge (when I'm traveling), drive home, let the tires cool, and then check them again with my own gauge to get the best accuracy. A small upward deviation is probably better than a downward deviation when it comes to pressure. 35/36 at the front and 39 at the back sounds right. You'll need to check the tires again once the weather warms up in the spring (if it ever does).).
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| angie13 (660hp) | A very common problem here as there are several members including me
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| eee123 (188hp) | Hello everyone, I found out today that one of my tire valve stem caps was stolen. When I got home I checked the tire pressure and found that all four tires were low. I was about to fill the tire but on the instruction manual. It is said that filler gauges may be under-reading by up to 1.45 psi/0.1 bar. I was just wondering if I should inflate the tire to 35 psi (front) 39 psi (rear) minus 1.45 psi? Thanks!! Also, what does the OEM tire air valve stem cap look like? Mine says N2 on the top, black cap. plastic.
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| egorov (377hp) | First: What PSI are you currently reading???
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| otapnam (681hp) | Quote: Originally posted by lsturbointeg First, what PSI are you reading? 32.4 32.5 (front) 33.1 33.4 (rear)
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| kaitlin (77hp) | Due to the cold temperatures today, your tire pressure is probably low. Inflate the tires as recommended in the manual/door jamb sticker and check them with a quality tire pressure gauge that every car owner should have. If possible, they should be filled while still cold. I have a small compressor that I use in my driveway to keep the tires ice cold at all times. You should check your tires every month or before a long trip. I myself am negligent in this regard and besides it is damn cold outside. The 1.45 value seems like a red herring to me - how do you know which inflator is inaccurate? Use your own measuring device. I would rather fill the tires with my gauge (when I'm traveling), drive home, let the tires cool, and then check them again with my own gauge to get the best accuracy. A small upward deviation is probably better than a downward deviation when it comes to pressure. 35/36 at the front and 39 at the back sounds right. You'll need to check the tires again once the weather warms up in the spring (if it ever does).).
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| justus3 (470hp) | A very common problem here as there are several members including me
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| isaulov.a (634hp) | My 2011 BMW 535i xdrive has a cold start problem that only occurs in the winter, so the temperatures are just cooler. When I get in first thing in the morning and start the car, the car starts fine, but after a few seconds the RPM drops to the point where the car is about to stall, and then the RPM increases again. I found a YouTube video that I will attach. https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=kBX1hj-K1PY
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| shorty25 (947hp) | My 2011 BMW 535i xdrive has a cold start problem that only occurs in the winter, so the temperatures are just cooler. When I get in first thing in the morning and start the car, the car starts fine, but after a few seconds the RPM drops to the point where the car is about to stall, and then the RPM increases again. I found a YouTube video that I will attach. https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=kBX1hj-K1PY
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| Brittany (822hp) | I have a 2012 F10 with 16,000 miles. It features the N20 engine. The car shakes a bit when starting from cold (especially if the engine speed is above 1,000 rpm and then the car idle drops to just under 1,000 rpm). There are no fluctuations in the speed, but you may feel a very slight vibration every 10-15 seconds (like when stopped at a traffic light). However, the speed needle remains constant. Yesterday I heard a quiet thumping noise coming from the outside as I was idling around the car. Any ideas what could be the cause? There are no error codes in the idrive or when connected to the BMW diagnostic software (Rheinhold). One thing I noticed was that out of the four cylinders, cylinder 1 was reading 6-8V, while the others below 5, the voltage in one of the cylinders was only 2V. I'm not sure , what these readings mean, but that's what was displayed on the computer. Could it be the spark plugs, fuel injector or ignition coil? Any help would be appreciated. Thanks! PS car is completely standard
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| katty (335hp) | How cold? If I leave my car (N20) parked outside in 15-20 degrees (F) for a day, the engine vibrates very noticeably until it warms up, especially when idling at a stoplight.
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| elaine (284hp) | I don't know much about the N20 problem, but see how your car has extremely low miles (and depending on the year), just take it to the dealer and have it checked.
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| hedgehog (357hp) | I live near the equator, so the temperature here is never below 80°F. I got the car in May 2012 and the original 3 year warranty has expired. So I avoid the dealer because they tend to call everything “normal.”.
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| toby13 (23hp) | With such low mileage I would think more likely of a partially clogged injector. The moment gasoline is made, it starts to deteriorate. If you only drive an average of 3,000 miles per year, the gasoline will break down in the tank. Hopefully you are in an area that does not use ethanol. I would start with an additive called Techron, made by Chevron. If you don't think every Yamaha marine dealer should have a product for sale called Ring Free, it's the same thing, just highly concentrated. Your problem doesn't appear to be that serious and should be resolved within about a hundred miles.
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| 07071985 (85hp) | Thanks guys! Take it to a workshop today and let's see what you find. I'm also going to have the battery replaced, it's been 5 years and still no low battery message has shown up...even though the diagnostic tool has shown battery related errors
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| kudrjashova62 (675hp) | Okay, yesterday I was at a well-known workshop in my city. The battery was replaced because the old one was almost dead. They connected my car to the diagnostic software and looked through various readings and couldn't find anything wrong. In case that was the problem, all spark plugs were replaced. Drove home and the car drives great (as it used to). I parked the car and let it idle for a bit. The slight shaking is still there and I can hear a thumping noise from the engine. Seems like it's coming from the left side. I tried turning off my air conditioner so the radiator fan would turn off and I could hear the noise better. When I turned off the air conditioning button, nothing happened. The light on the A/C button went out, but cold air was still coming in and the RPM didn't drop...then, about 30 seconds later, the RPM suddenly dropped (to what it is when the A/C is off should) after the car shook abruptly. Really confused at this point.
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| anelka (775hp) | I have a 2012 F10 with 16,000 miles. It features the N20 engine. The car shakes a bit when starting from cold (especially if the engine speed is above 1,000 rpm and then the car idle drops to just under 1,000 rpm). There are no fluctuations in the speed, but you may feel a very slight vibration every 10-15 seconds (like when stopped at a traffic light). However, the speed needle remains constant. Yesterday I heard a quiet thumping noise coming from the outside as I was idling around the car. Any ideas what could be the cause? There are no error codes in the idrive or when connected to the BMW diagnostic software (Rheinhold). One thing I noticed was that out of the four cylinders, cylinder 1 was reading 6-8V, while the others below 5, the voltage in one of the cylinders was only 2V. I'm not sure , what these readings mean, but that's what was displayed on the computer. Could it be the spark plugs, fuel injector or ignition coil? Any help would be appreciated. Thanks! PS car is completely standard
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| bilbo1 (490hp) | How cold? If I leave my car (N20) parked outside in 15-20 degrees (F) for a day, the engine vibrates very noticeably until it warms up, especially when idling at a stoplight.
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| deamon (752hp) | I don't know much about the N20 problem, but see how your car has extremely low miles (and depending on the year), just take it to the dealer and have it checked.
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| CSL-Fanatik (22hp) | I live near the equator, so the temperature here is never below 80°F. I got the car in May 2012 and the original 3 year warranty has expired. So I avoid the dealer because they tend to call everything “normal.”.
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| 101294 (738hp) | With such low mileage I would think more likely of a partially clogged injector. The moment gasoline is made, it starts to deteriorate. If you only drive an average of 3,000 miles per year, the gasoline will break down in the tank. Hopefully you are in an area that does not use ethanol. I would start with an additive called Techron, made by Chevron. If you don't think every Yamaha marine dealer should have a product for sale called Ring Free, it's the same thing, just highly concentrated. Your problem doesn't appear to be that serious and should be resolved within about a hundred miles.
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| arctic (70hp) | Thanks guys! Take it to a workshop today and let's see what you find. I'm also going to have the battery replaced, it's been 5 years and still no low battery message has shown up...even though the diagnostic tool has shown battery related errors
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| 19051981 (740hp) | Okay, yesterday I was at a well-known workshop in my city. The battery was replaced because the old one was almost dead. They connected my car to the diagnostic software and looked through various readings and couldn't find anything wrong. In case that was the problem, all spark plugs were replaced. Drove home and the car drives great (as it used to). I parked the car and let it idle for a bit. The slight shaking is still there and I can hear a thumping noise from the engine. Seems like it's coming from the left side. I tried turning off my air conditioner so the radiator fan would turn off and I could hear the noise better. When I turned off the air conditioning button, nothing happened. The light on the A/C button went out, but cold air was still coming in and the RPM didn't drop...then, about 30 seconds later, the RPM suddenly dropped (to what it is when the A/C is off should) after the car shook abruptly. Really confused at this point.
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| Hilly (569hp) | When my A/C is on and I release the brake from neutral, the car jerks forward a little, even if I do my best to release the brake as slowly as possible. Can this be fixed??
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| 226010 (884hp) | Quote: Originally posted by BlueTangClan When my A/C is on and I release the brake from neutral, the car jerks forward a little, even if I do my best to release the brake as slowly as possible. Can this be fixed? Does the idle speed increase (200 rpm) when the air conditioning is on? If so, it may be the problem with jerky starting. Energy management could be involved. If the above is true, it may be worth turning off other energy consumers to see if the RPM stays at normal idle with the air conditioning on. If the condition returns to normal, it may be due to battery health or simply battery drain and alternator load requiring additional RPMs.
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| carranza (394hp) | Yes, the RPM goes up a little when the AC is on, but I thought that was normal. I have attached 2 pictures. On the left the air conditioning is switched off, on the right the air conditioning is on. What do you mean by switching off energy consumers???
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| kiki15 (459hp) | Quote: Originally posted by BlueTangClan Yes, the RPM goes up a little when the AC is on, but I thought that was normal. I have attached 2 pictures. On the left the air conditioning is switched off, on the right the air conditioning is on. What do you mean by switching off energy consumers? The higher speeds explain the transmission behavior. Are you operating high electrical loads? Lights, high A/C fan speeds, etc. If you can turn something off to reduce electrical load, see if the speed goes down again. Nothing was lost in the attempt. If there is no change, it may simply be the air conditioning load that is requiring an increase in speed.
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| sparty744 (950hp) | The fan speed is at the lowest level. There's no light on. The only thing that's on are the car headlights. When I turn that off, the speed doesn't drop.
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| fiesta1 (228hp) | Quote: Originally written by BlueTangClan. The fan speed is at the lowest level. There's no light on. The only thing that's on are the car headlights. When I turn this off, the speed doesn't drop. Another factor that I never mentioned is the load on the air conditioning and cooling fans due to the ambient temperature. If you have high demands on the air conditioning system, the speed will probably be increased. Back to the transmission, these additional RPMs begin to activate the torque converter, resulting in a slight jerk.
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| 5522 (414hp) | So is this normal or something that can be fixed??
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| mata (786hp) | Quote: Originally written by BlueTangClan. So is this normal or something that can be fixed? Speed increase, Idle Speed Boost (up to 200 rpm increase) is part of energy management. Out of interest, I tried out my 535i this morning. No change in engine speed, turning the air conditioning on or off. The demands on my air conditioning system were minimal, the ambient temperature was 9°C, there was no need for engine cooling or the air conditioning fan speed to increase.
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| abc123xyz (338hp) | Tried it out today on my 2012 550. I have tried several things such as: B. the air conditioning, the lights and the radio, everything off and on again, with the air conditioning on full cold and then on full heat. All without changing the speed. However, I appreciate that under other circumstances I might see a slight increase due to power consumption, but 200 RPM seems very excessive and not normal at all. I've had cars in the past where the RPM would increase maybe 25-50 when I put them under heavy engine load, but never more. I would have that looked at.
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| 25021983 (693hp) | When my A/C is on and I release the brake from neutral, the car jerks forward a little, even if I do my best to release the brake as slowly as possible. Can this be fixed??
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| cars1234 (988hp) | Quote: Originally posted by BlueTangClan When my A/C is on and I release the brake from neutral, the car jerks forward a little, even if I do my best to release the brake as slowly as possible. Can this be fixed? Does the idle speed increase (200 rpm) when the air conditioning is on? If so, it may be the problem with jerky starting. Energy management could be involved. If the above is true, it may be worth turning off other energy consumers to see if the RPM stays at normal idle with the air conditioning on. If the condition returns to normal, it may be due to battery health or simply battery drain and alternator load requiring additional RPMs.
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| simbad (809hp) | Yes, the RPM goes up a little when the AC is on, but I thought that was normal. I have attached 2 pictures. On the left the air conditioning is switched off, on the right the air conditioning is on. What do you mean by switching off energy consumers???
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| mamanjetaime (703hp) | Quote: Originally posted by BlueTangClan Yes, the RPM goes up a little when the AC is on, but I thought that was normal. I have attached 2 pictures. On the left the air conditioning is switched off, on the right the air conditioning is on. What do you mean by switching off energy consumers? The higher speeds explain the transmission behavior. Are you operating high electrical loads? Lights, high A/C fan speeds, etc. If you can turn something off to reduce electrical load, see if the speed goes down again. Nothing was lost in the attempt. If there is no change, it may simply be the air conditioning load that is requiring an increase in speed.
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| riverrat1 (38hp) | The fan speed is at the lowest level. There's no light on. The only thing that's on are the car headlights. When I turn that off, the speed doesn't drop.
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| yogibear1 (408hp) | Quote: Originally written by BlueTangClan. The fan speed is at the lowest level. There's no light on. The only thing that's on are the car headlights. When I turn this off, the speed doesn't drop. Another factor that I never mentioned is the load on the air conditioning and cooling fans due to the ambient temperature. If you have high demands on the air conditioning system, the speed will probably be increased. Back to the transmission, these additional RPMs begin to activate the torque converter, resulting in a slight jerk.
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| 260289 (562hp) | So is this normal or something that can be fixed??
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| foofighters (631hp) | Quote: Originally written by BlueTangClan. So is this normal or something that can be fixed? Speed increase, Idle Speed Boost (up to 200 rpm increase) is part of energy management. Out of interest, I tried out my 535i this morning. No change in engine speed, turning the air conditioning on or off. The demands on my air conditioning system were minimal, the ambient temperature was 9°C, there was no need for engine cooling or the air conditioning fan speed to increase.
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| adriance (769hp) | Tried it out today on my 2012 550. I have tried several things such as: B. the air conditioning, the lights and the radio, everything off and on again, with the air conditioning on full cold and then on full heat. All without changing the speed. However, I appreciate that under other circumstances I might see a slight increase due to power consumption, but 200 RPM seems very excessive and not normal at all. I've had cars in the past where the RPM would increase maybe 25-50 when I put them under heavy engine load, but never more. I would have that looked at.
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| 12041980 (695hp) | 2016 F10 with improved Bluetooth. It worked fine and displayed the names of incoming calls, but recently stopped working. I fixed the phone (iPhone) with the car and I can see all contacts but it's only the phone numbers that show up in incoming calls and recently dialed numbers. What to do?
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| cayden1 (993hp) | Must have been a mistake, works fine today.
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| jhgfdsa (442hp) | I noticed the same thing yesterday when I was driving just numbers popup with no name
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| LORENZO (722hp) | The Bluetooth is probably not the problem. The phone or carrier probably had a hiccup. Displaying incoming names is part of the phone's operating system and the carrier's operating system.
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| joseph03 (480hp) | 2016 F10 with improved Bluetooth. Worked fine and displayed the names of incoming calls, but recently stopped working. I fixed the phone (iPhone) with the car and I can see all contacts but it's only the phone numbers that show up in incoming calls and recently dialed numbers. What to do?
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| SmokeTL (330hp) | Must have been a mistake, works fine today.
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| woofer1 (244hp) | I noticed the same thing yesterday when I was driving just numbers popup with no name
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| djljktq (749hp) | The Bluetooth is probably not the problem. The phone or carrier probably had a hiccup. Displaying incoming names is part of the phone's operating system and the carrier's operating system.
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| famous7 (411hp) | Do you take the JB4 off before heading to the dealer for something as simple as an oil change? Is there a chance that the dealer would indicate that the car has a JB4 during a regular visit so that in the event of a subsequent warranty claim the aftermarket warranty company will be informed that the car previously had a JB4? Or am I just too paranoid??
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| 281978 (21hp) | If it's easy, why not just do it to be 10000000% sure??
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| reg (325hp) | Quote: Originally posted by BMWisFRIEND If it's easy, why not just do it to be 10000000% sure? With the JB4 beta, which routes the OBD2 adapter through the firewall, it's not that easy. It's not necessarily hard, but I'd rather not have to do it every time.
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| scorpio11 (977hp) | It kind of depends on the problem. There is the MagnusonMoss Warranty Act (https://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/Magnus...s_Warranty_Act) which you may want to read. But that's the price/time you have to pay if you want a warranty instead of modifications.
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| kaylin (230hp) | Quote: Originally posted by AmooManiak With the JB4 beta passing the OBD2 adapter through the firewall, it's not really easy. It's not necessarily hard, but I'd rather not have to do it every time. I never remove this OBD2 adapter when I go for service. I simply plug the OBD2 connector inside the vehicle back into the lower compartment it comes out of (under the steering column), and I package the engine compartment connector with the surrounding wires to make it look like part of the package. They were replacing engine/turbo components at the dealer when I did this and it didn't show up once.
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| bitch87 (99hp) | Quote: Originally posted by AMTF10 I never remove this OBD2 adapter when I go for service. I simply plug the OBD2 connector inside the vehicle back into the lower compartment it comes out of (under the steering column), and I package the engine compartment connector with the surrounding wires to make it look like part of the package. They were replacing engine/turbo components at the dealer when I did this and it didn't show up once. Cool, thanks! I actually wonder if they would even remember something like a JB4 when doing something unrelated to the engine. Or if they would even care since I would claim an aftermarket warranty.
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| hotaru (499hp) | Quote: Originally written by Ickdeep. It kind of depends on the problem. There is the Magnuson-Moss Warranty Act (https://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/Magnus...s_Warranty_Act) which you may want to read. But that's the price/time you have to pay if you want a warranty instead of modifications. Full understanding and agreement. If it were a CPO guarantee, I would definitely get rid of it. I was just wondering if anyone has had any experience with an aftermarket warranty company being notified by the dealer.
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| 15071992 (472hp) | Quote: Originally written by AmooManiak. I completely understand and agree. If it were a CPO guarantee, I would definitely get rid of it. I was just wondering if anyone has had any experience with an aftermarket warranty company being notified by the dealer. I have an aftermarket warranty but have all my work done at the BMW dealer. You have to wait a day because the warranty office has sent a representative to look at the car and approve the work.
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| jojo16 (634hp) | Quote: Originally written by Ickdeep. I have an aftermarket warranty, but I have all my work done at the BMW dealer. You have to wait a day because the warranty office has sent a representative to look at the car and approve the work. Would you like to tell us what your guarantee is? Have you ever done any work before and was it a hassle getting it approved? How has your N55 performed so far? When my warranty deadline came up in May and I looked at Route 66, I heard good things.
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| 123myspace (52hp) | Quote: Originally posted by AMTF10 Would you like to tell us what your warranty is? Have you ever done any work before and was it a hassle getting it approved? How has your N55 performed so far? When my warranty deadline came up in May and I looked at Route 66, I heard good things. I got mine from the dealer, but it's from a third party. MAP (Driver Assistance Plan). I just recently used it for an oil cleanse. The dealer wanted to replace the oil seal, filter and oil itself (plus labor). I took delivery of the car on Monday, the representative came and approved it on Tuesday, and received the car on Friday after the work was completed. I didn't have to deal with warranty people at all. I just arrived and picked up my car (paid the deductible). As for the N55, it's fantastic except for that oil leak, but now it's stuck. At 53,000 miles
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| chinita1 (96hp) | Do you take the JB4 off before heading to the dealer for something as simple as an oil change? Is there a chance that the dealer would indicate that the car has a JB4 during a regular visit so that in the event of a subsequent warranty claim the aftermarket warranty company will be informed that the car previously had a JB4? Or am I just too paranoid??
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| wasnotwas (272hp) | If it's easy, why not just do it to be 10000000% sure??
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| 2babyboys (627hp) | Quote: Originally posted by BMWisFRIEND If it's easy, why not just do it to be 10000000% sure? With the JB4 beta, which routes the OBD2 adapter through the firewall, it's not that easy. It's not necessarily hard, but I'd rather not have to do it every time.
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| virus123 (320hp) | It kind of depends on the problem. There is the MagnusonMoss Warranty Act (https://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/Magnus...s_Warranty_Act) which you may want to read. But that's the price/time you have to pay if you want a warranty instead of modifications.
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| telkom (751hp) | Quote: Originally posted by AmooManiak With the JB4 beta passing the OBD2 adapter through the firewall, it's not really easy. It's not necessarily hard, but I'd rather not have to do it every time. I never remove this OBD2 adapter when I go for service. I simply plug the OBD2 connector inside the vehicle back into the lower compartment it comes out of (under the steering column), and I package the engine compartment connector with the surrounding wires to make it look like part of the package. They were replacing engine/turbo components at the dealer when I did this and it didn't show up once.
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| bobo13 (935hp) | Quote: Originally posted by AMTF10 I never remove this OBD2 adapter when I go for service. I simply plug the OBD2 connector inside the vehicle back into the lower compartment it comes out of (under the steering column), and I package the engine compartment connector with the surrounding wires to make it look like part of the package. They were replacing engine/turbo components at the dealer when I did this and it didn't show up once. Cool, thanks! I actually wonder if they would even remember something like a JB4 when doing something unrelated to the engine. Or if they would even care since I would claim an aftermarket warranty.
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| milesdavis (599hp) | Quote: Originally written by Ickdeep. It kind of depends on the problem. There is the Magnuson-Moss Warranty Act (https://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/Magnus...s_Warranty_Act) which you may want to read. But that's the price/time you have to pay if you want a warranty instead of modifications. Full understanding and agreement. If it were a CPO guarantee, I would definitely get rid of it. I was just wondering if anyone has had any experience with an aftermarket warranty company being notified by the dealer.
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| fazooley (643hp) | Quote: Originally written by AmooManiak. I completely understand and agree. If it were a CPO guarantee, I would definitely get rid of it. I was just wondering if anyone has had any experience with an aftermarket warranty company being notified by the dealer. I have an aftermarket warranty but have all my work done at the BMW dealer. You have to wait a day because the warranty office has sent a representative to look at the car and approve the work.
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| nicegirl (864hp) | Quote: Originally written by Ickdeep. I have an aftermarket warranty, but I have all my work done at the BMW dealer. You have to wait a day because the warranty office has sent a representative to look at the car and approve the work. Would you like to tell us what your guarantee is? Have you ever done work before and was it a hassle getting it approved? How has your N55 performed so far? When my warranty deadline came up in May and I looked at Route 66, I heard good things.
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| pookey (93hp) | Quote: Originally posted by AMTF10 Would you like to tell us what your warranty is? Have you ever done any work before and was it a hassle getting it approved? How has your N55 performed so far? When my warranty deadline came up in May and I looked at Route 66, I heard good things. I got mine from the dealer, but it's from a third party. MAP (Driver Assistance Plan). I just recently used it for an oil cleanse. The dealer wanted to replace the oil seal, filter and oil itself (plus labor). I took delivery of the car on Monday, the representative came and approved it on Tuesday, and received the car on Friday after the work was completed. I didn't have to deal with warranty people at all. I just arrived and picked up my car (paid the deductible). As for the N55, it's fantastic except for that oil leak, but now it's stuck. At 53,000 miles
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| 091190 (379hp) | 1st The trunk lid doesn't close with the button, I have to close it by hand, it opens easily with the key or the button on the driver's side and it is not in chauffeur mode. Checked it again. I suspect a fuse is broken? 2. A puddle of water in the deep passenger compartment on the passenger side (PIC), everything is dried out on the passenger side now but I don't know how that got there, no rain or laundry recently and no water anywhere else in the trunk. Any ideas on this please, and yes, I make sure the trunk lid is closed. Thank you https://ibb.co/mSFsFa https://ibb.co/hPBXFa
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| momo22 (603hp) | Trunk Service Bulletin --- I had my vehicle repaired through this work. Do a search for your second problem... Unfortunately, many owners have experienced this. What year is your F??'10?
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| minister1 (211hp) | Thanks... it's a 2012
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| Maxboy2012 (124hp) | 1st The trunk lid doesn't close with the button, I have to close it by hand, it opens easily with the key or the button on the driver's side and it is not in chauffeur mode. Checked it again. I suspect a fuse is broken? 2. A puddle of water in the deep passenger compartment on the passenger side (PIC), everything is dried out on the passenger side now but I don't know how that got there, no rain or laundry recently and no water anywhere else in the trunk. Any ideas on this please, and yes, I make sure the trunk lid is closed. Thank you https://ibb.co/mSFsFa https://ibb.co/hPBXFa
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| clumsy (312hp) | Trunk Service Bulletin --- I had my vehicle repaired through this work. Do a search for your second problem... Unfortunately, many owners have experienced this. What year is your F??'10?
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| 120374 (646hp) | Thanks... it's a 2012
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| werthvfy (650hp) | My G30 530e will be locked on March 20th due to any changes. A possible color combination is Black Sapphire Metallic/Cognac Dakota. Aside from being difficult to keep clean, I'd love to hear opinions on this color combination.
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| shotta (230hp) | You shouldn't post this on the G30 forum?
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| keren (620hp) | Quote: Originally written by lsturbointeg, shouldn't you post this on the G30 forum? Damned! I'm sorry. Can the moderator delete??
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| $HEX[687474703a2f2f616473] (31hp) | Quote: Originally posted by Feuerwalze Damn! I'm sorry. Can the moderator delete? I thought you would get a better answer there
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| queen23 (181hp) | Quote: Originally written by lsturbointeg. I thought you would get a better answer there. Thank you. Thanks
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| owner (81hp) | this is a great color combination. I love my titanium silver on Venetian beige, but people seem to hate it. Well, the silver color is super easy to keep clean though.
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| 465465 (809hp) | Based on the pictures I've seen, it's similar to the Terra leather I had in my previous 335i. With the black exterior it looked great, especially when you rolled down the windows to show it off a bit
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| addressbook (661hp) | My G30 530e will be locked on March 20th due to any changes. A possible color combination is Black Sapphire Metallic/Cognac Dakota. Aside from being difficult to keep clean, I'd love to hear opinions on this color combination.
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| 123as123 (179hp) | You shouldn't post this on the G30 forum?
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| Jayhawker32 (429hp) | Quote: Originally written by lsturbointeg, shouldn't you post this on the G30 forum? Damned! I'm sorry. Can the moderator delete??
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| fischer1 (77hp) | Quote: Originally posted by Feuerwalze Damn! I'm sorry. Can the moderator delete? I thought you'd get a better answer there
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| 03041993 (578hp) | Quote: Originally written by lsturbointeg. I thought you would get a better answer there. Thank you. Thanks
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| football14 (985hp) | this is a great color combination. I love my titanium silver on Venetian beige, but people seem to hate it. Well, the silver color is super easy to keep clean though.
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| 151288 (412hp) | Based on the pictures I've seen, it's similar to the Terra leather I had in my previous 335i. With the black exterior it looked great, especially when you rolled down the windows to show it off a bit
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| jimbeam (308hp) | Hi guys, I thought I would briefly write my opinion on the F10 and how I feel after comparing it to the E90 I drove today. Although I absolutely love my F10 and all its luxury amenities, I'm more of a 3 Series guy and after today's test drive of an E90 I got a really good idea of what I'm missing. It was a 328i N52 with a 6-speed manual transmission, rear wheel drive and an M Sport package and it was truly wonderful. For how amazing and nimble it corners, it doesn't handle too badly in a straight line at all and honestly had no discernible difference in high speed stability (around 100mph) over the F10. While my 528i drives beautifully in a straight line, there is far too much suspension travel/body movement on the highway and it is far too unnecessarily heavy. It just feels very detached from the road and the body roll is really unsettling, even on the highway. I love the inside of my F10. It's very spacious, has nice materials, good ergonomics, is very comfortable and just a pleasant place to be, but the driver-focused feel of the E90 is just something I crave after driving my 5 Series. You may be wondering why I didn't just go with the E90 if I love it so much, but I got my 5 Series on a deal that was just too good to pass up (via family) and paired it with the fact that I have it The rare 2011 N52 model is extremely reliable and pleasant to own. I would never sell it for pennies and upgrade to an E90. What do you think of the F10? someone here drove an electric car90?
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| suckit123 (523hp) | I owned an E90 328i for about a year. No comparison to my F10. The technology is old, the car was riddled with many problems and the interior would fall apart. Of all the BMWs I've ever owned (97 318, 04 Z4, 07 E90, 08 E60 M5, my current 550 and 05 X3), the E90 was by far the worst. But I think that's because I was always worried about when the next time I would be stranded or when the next repair bill would break the bank.
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| brandy11 (613hp) | Do you think it's really fair to compare a 3 to a 5? Is your 5 an M-Sport? How often do you actually get the chance to run through the curves? 10% of the time, 15%? How often does someone drive anywhere close to 8/10, let alone 10/10? It's like comparing an X to a 5. Of course, a smaller, lighter car drives better. Rant over. It just seems like people just love comparing the 3 to the 5. Apples with pears (or Panamera with those 911)...
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| ed (659hp) | Quote: Originally posted by SLVSRFR I owned an E90 328i for about a year. No comparison to my F10. The technology is old, the car was riddled with many problems and the interior would fall apart. Of all the BMWs I've ever owned (97 318, 04 Z4, 07 E90, 08 E60 M5, my current 550 and 05 X3), the E90 was by far the worst. But I think that's because I was always worried about when the next time I would be stranded or when the next repair bill would break the bank. Your 550i (N63) has terrible reliability issues. If you think the N52 you had was bad...that's actually a very solid and reliable engine, but with BMW it seems to be hit or miss. You might come across one that's really reliable or something that lets you down every month. I have an N52, the same engine as the E90 328i, and it was simply outstanding. I have great confidence in the machine and at 73,000 miles I haven't had to change or repair a single thing. Quote: Originally posted by ezaircon4jc Do you think it's really fair to compare a 3 to a 5? Is your 5 an M-Sport? How often do you actually get the chance to run through the curves? 10% of the time, 15%? How often does someone drive anywhere close to 8/10, let alone 10/10? It's like comparing an X to a 5. Of course, a smaller, lighter car drives better. Rant over. It just seems like people just love comparing the 3 to the 5. Apples and oranges (or Panamera with the 911)... It's not the M-Sport. I can't stand the M Sport front bumper on the F10. It looks cheap and plasticky. I love the clean look of the non-M-F10 with my titanium silver on beige color scheme. You are right and you have raised some very good points. I really don't have the opportunity to find many good roads here in Toronto, but the winding roads I drove on the F10 are beautiful. Mine is rear wheel drive and it's really fun as long as the corners aren't too tight. The long wheelbase really adds to the stability and I feel more comfortable hanging the rear out on the F10, especially because I'm very used to the 3 Series just feeling kind of twitchy at the limit. When you compare these two, it's definitely a comparison, and it's all a matter of preference. I'm still pretty young and a 3 Series suits my driving style much better than the 5 Series, but I drive pretty aggressively. I still love the 5 Series, but it's extremely rewarding and fun to drive if you keep it within its limits. My main criticism is the soft suspension and ridiculous weight. For example. BMW's method of shock absorption is a stiff, aggressive chassis with a slightly soft and compliant suspension that absorbs mid-corner bumps. Mazda also takes this approach, and when you drive cars from these two brands side by side, they feel suspiciously similar. Anyway, my friend has a 2012 TL, FWD, and although it's not much lighter than the F10, the suspension is superbly tuned and manages to soak up bumps with half the suspension movement/travel, but still rides almost the same quiet. That's my main criticism of the F10: it's too heavy, coupled with all the body movement - it hates being pushed aggressively into tight corners. I know I talk so much shit about the F10, but just thinking about its beautiful interior and brilliant no-nonsense composure makes me realize why I have one. I plan on buying something light and sporty in the future, like an RX8, Honda S2000, etc., which will complement the laid-back F10 Cruiser Bruiser well. I like that.
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| 13041979 (674hp) | Quote: Originally posted by 6IX-F10-N52 I know I talk so much shit
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| d1bd6bc58c1d74df41a957489c9942f5 (894hp) | Quote: Originally posted by 6IX-F10-N52 Your 550i (N63) has terrible reliability issues. If you think the N52 you had was bad...that's actually a very solid and reliable engine, but with BMW it seems to be hit or miss. You might come across one that's really reliable or something that lets you down every month. I have an N52, the same engine as the E90 328i, and it was simply outstanding. I have great confidence in the vehicle and after 73,000 miles I haven't had to change or repair a single thing. On what facts are problems with reliability based? It's funny because the only people who say the N63 has reliability issues are those who don't own one. I have 102,000 miles on my 550 and have had no major issues before or after having the CCP done. And I've been tuned for the last 40,000 miles. If you take your car in for preventive maintenance from BMW to fix problems discovered during the design process, these are not reliability problems. That's called being proactive. (Referring to the N63 CCP) The E90 was hands down the worst BMW I have ever owned. My parents' 06 325i was also junk. The headliner was falling off because the glue couldn't hold, the interior near the cup holders was peeling and every gasket was leaking, and the car only had 14,000 miles on it. The E90 platform has facts and many examples to support its reliability issues. Constant water pump and thermostat failures that BMW did nothing about. The infamous oil filter housing gasket, valve cover gasket and transmission mechatronic sleeve that started leaking 50,000 miles ago. Not to mention the HPFP and LPFP that let down many E90 335i owners. Furthermore, in my opinion the 550 is not the best BMW I have ever owned. My old 318 probably performs better. So there is no bias towards the F10 platform. It's just that the E90 isn't BMW's best example of the ultimate driving machine
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| 010689 (958hp) | Quote: Originally posted by SLVSRFR Reliability issues based on what facts? It's funny because the only people who say the N63 has reliability issues are those who don't own one. I have 102,000 miles on my 550 and have had no major issues before or after having the CCP done. And I've been tuned for the last 40,000 miles. If you take your car in for preventive maintenance from BMW to fix problems discovered during the design process, these are not reliability problems. That's called being proactive. (Referring to the N63 CCP) The E90 was hands down the worst BMW I have ever owned. My parents' 06 325i was also junk. The headliner was falling off because the glue couldn't hold, the interior near the cup holders was peeling and every gasket was leaking, and the car only had 14,000 miles on it. The E90 platform has facts and many examples to support its reliability issues. Constant water pump and thermostat failures that BMW did nothing about. The infamous oil filter housing gasket, valve cover gasket and transmission mechatronic sleeve that started leaking 50,000 miles ago. Not to mention the HPFP and LPFP that let down many E90 335i owners. Furthermore, in my opinion the 550 is not the best BMW I have ever owned. My old 318 probably performs better. So there is no bias towards the F10 platform. It's just that the E90 isn't BMW's best example of the ultimate driving machine. The N63 has a truly terrible reputation... and I love it. It's noisy. The engine sounds incredible. Pulls incredibly hard and doesn't even feel like a turbo engine. No winding, no delay. just strong linear pull up to 6500rpm and did I mention how damn good it sounds!! I love BMW's V8 engines almost as much as their inline-six engines. You're right. The N52 has some problems, but for all its electrical problems, it really is the pinnacle of naturally aspirated BMW inline-six engines, and boy, was that short-lived. We will never see an engine like this again. Its flexibility to produce large amounts of torque at low revs and yet pull smoothly and linearly up to the 7000 rpm redline cannot be replicated with turbocharged engines. I know the engine has a lot of electrical issues and all the stuff that goes wrong with it, but the engine itself is pretty darn solid. I drove it 220,000 km today and it honestly ran like new. Of course, your N63 is more or less reliable, but I'm sure you'll end up spending just as much money on this engine as you did on the N52, and yet this inline-six will still run like new. Yes, on the other hand it doesn't have nearly the same power, but you seem to like the E90 chassis more than the engine itself, which I can see as it's a lower end BMW with some build quality concerns. But you can't go wrong with the N52. All of the problems you mentioned are common with the N52, but everyone complains that the N54 has so many more problems. I don't even want to know. and again... naturally aspirated inline 6! Who else besides Lexus has sold this in the last 10 to 20 years? or some crappy American example with twice the displacement, half the power and a redline of 6000 rpm on a good day. (The 2JZ without the turbo attached is a hot piece of shit) I like the N52 in my 528i. At 73,000 miles the engine is bone dry all around, has no leaks and runs like new. But when starting up the engine..)
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| dabulls (384hp) | I don't even compare my E90 335i to my current 550i as they are too far apart in comparison. The E90 was designed primarily as a sports sedan and luxury was definitely an afterthought, while the F10 was designed first as a luxury car and then as a semi-sport sedan. My E90 would have put my 550i to shame in terms of steering feedback and handling and it was a real joy to drive when the roads were twisty. As a luxury car, my E90 was terrible, with a very harsh ride and a fairly cheap looking interior and little in the way of high tech. On the other hand, my F10 has impressive straight-line performance and pulls like a freight train. It performs poorly as a sports sedan, but offers a smooth, well-controlled ride. It has a luxurious interior with excellent fit and finish and decent technology. As far as reliability goes, my E90 was the worst BMW I've ever owned. HPFP replacement, mechatronic sleeve replacement, window regulator replacement, and crumbling windshield seals were some of the service items I encountered. Since my F10 is still too new, I can't say anything about its reliability yet, but so far I haven't had any problems.
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| comment (722hp) | Quote: Originally posted by 6IX-F10-N52 What do you think of the F10? Has anyone here driven an E90? I can compare car E91 with F11. I've had an E91 330d for over 6 years and my F11 535i for over 4 years now. Both 6-cylinder blocks with similar weight distribution. We compare apples with oranges. Reliability, fit and finish aside, we need to see the cars in completely different segments, because that's clearly what they are. As far as driving capabilities go, they are very specification dependent. We can't just say that an E90 goes one way and the F10 goes the other. Even my E91 didn't have the best handling and ride balance for a 3 Series. I tried a few examples (E90 and E91) and decided on the specification that suited me best, but still modified the suspension (damping) to improve ride and handling. I also tried several F10/F11 models and chose Adaptive Drive as “essential” to achieve the best balance between ride and handling. In my opinion the F11 is way above the E91. Apart from weight and size, which of course affect the dynamics of the car. Even on winding roads, the F11 is almost as good as the E91. I expect a 3 Series to do well, but the fact that the 5 Series (Adaptive Drive suspension) isn't far behind is a credit to the technology that makes a 'Five' much more agile. It is also much more dynamic than the standard F10 5-series chassis can offer. I have no regrets at all about going back to a 5 Series after over 6 years with a 3 Series.
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| 261 (352hp) | In general, I find the E90 ugly in terms of design, both inside and out. Early model years before LCI stand out among the worst. It is a very feminine exterior design of the vehicle and the interior design is cheap and overall uninspiring. The build quality, construction and interior, especially the pre-LCI ones, are downright abysmal. Mechanically, the cars are prone to a number of common problems, with both the N52 and N54 having their own unique problems. Oil leaks, often massive (N52 aluminum head bolts), can easily result in total car failure. The value of E90s has plummeted in recent years and the typical owner can no longer keep up with maintenance. For me, the E90 is the Corolla (maybe even a Tercel?) of the BMW model range these days.
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| cadets (876hp) | Quote: Originally posted by DDD31 I don't even compare my E90 335i to my current 550i as they are too far apart in comparison. The E90 was designed primarily as a sports sedan and luxury was definitely an afterthought, while the F10 was designed first as a luxury car and then as a semi-sport sedan. My E90 would have put my 550i to shame in terms of steering feedback and handling and it was a real joy to drive when the roads were twisty. As a luxury car, my E90 was terrible, with a very harsh ride and a fairly cheap looking interior and little in the way of high tech. On the other hand, my F10 has impressive straight-line performance and pulls like a freight train. It performs poorly as a sports sedan, but offers a smooth, well-controlled ride. It has a luxurious interior with excellent fit and finish and decent technology. As far as reliability goes, my E90 was the worst BMW I've ever owned. HPFP replacement, mechatronic sleeve replacement, window regulator replacement, and crumbling windshield seals were some of the service items I encountered. Since my F10 is still too new, I can't say anything about its reliability yet, but so far I haven't had any problems. I feel like the E90 combines comfort and luxury pretty well in a sports sedan. I mean, it's a 3,400 pound car that's barely bigger than a Civic. That's hard. The interior isn't of the best quality, but the layout, build quality and materials aren't bad. It's obviously nothing compared to the F10, but you can live with it. As long as you keep up with your F10's engine and transmission oil changes there shouldn't be any major problems... Quote: Originally posted by HighlandPete I can compare station wagons, E91 to F11. I've had an E91 330d for over 6 years and my F11 535i for over 4 years now. Both 6-cylinder blocks with similar weight distribution. We compare apples with oranges. Reliability, fit and finish aside, we need to see the cars in completely different segments, because that's clearly what they are. As far as driving capabilities go, they are very specification dependent. We can't just say that an E90 goes one way and the F10 goes the other. Even my E91 didn't have the best handling and ride balance for a 3 Series. I tried a few examples (E90 and E91) and decided on the specification that suited me best, but still modified the suspension (damping) to improve ride and handling. I also tried several F10/F11 models and chose Adaptive Drive as “essential” to achieve the best balance between ride and handling. In my opinion the F11 is way above the E91. Apart from weight and size, which of course affect the dynamics of the car. Even on winding roads, the F11 is almost as good as the E91. I expect a 3 Series to do well, but the fact that the 5 Series (Adaptive Drive suspension) isn't far behind is a credit to the technology that makes a 'Five' much more agile. It is also much more dynamic than the standard F10 5-series chassis can offer. I have no regrets at all about going back to a 5 Series after over 6 years with a 3 Series. I agree with you 100%. The F10 is extremely impressive in corners. It somehow hugs you and feels much, much lighter than it really is. The suspension travel/body movement is really minimal when you open the throttle and the oversteer with my RWD chassis was a lot of fun, easy to control and predictable. The long wheelbase helps a lot and.
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| 10091978 (201hp) | Yes, I'm afraid I've driven dozens of E90s over the years, with different models and trim levels. While I can agree with you without question, the exterior of the LCI (particularly the MTech) looks a lot better, but it doesn't significantly change the quality of the interior or the basic car.
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| smiley69 (389hp) | Quote: Originally written by Stück Yes, I'm afraid I've driven dozens of E90s in all years, models and trim levels. While I can agree with you without question, the exterior of the LCI (particularly the MTech) looks a lot better, but it doesn't significantly change the quality of the interior or the basic car. Haha...true man, I hear you. While I like the shape, especially the LCI, the interior isn't all that impressive, but I love the naturally aspirated inline-six. I also like how the F10 takes its styling cues from both the E90 and the F30, it's like a mix of both and I think all three cars are beautiful. (LCI e90 of course)
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| Mish_Mish (604hp) | The F10 looks better than the E90 as the four doors look much better on a longer frame of the car. However, the e92 looks better than the F10, especially the pre-LCI e92. Otherwise they are completely different cars. One is a large, luxurious cruiser. The other is the epitome of a BMW that lives in the corners. The E90 is more fun to drive. The F10 is probably a better daily driver.
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| fluff1 (15hp) | Don't sleep man, take the E90 335. Don't get the No Ragrets tattoo haha
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| 27051992 (928hp) | It's funny because I had a similar experience but not with the F10. I owned an E92 335i, then my girlfriend got a 128i so I was able to drive both often. The 128i made the 335i feel like a fat cow, which led us to opt for something sportier and less luxurious. So I bought a Z4MR and it made the 128i feel like a bit of a pig. However, the cycle then repeats itself in the other direction. Driving the Z4MR became tiring every day, so I kept it as a weekend car and bought a CC as a daily car, but then that became too boring even for daily driving, so I bought something else and so on and so on and it is a story that never ends with me. Other than that, the Z4M was the best BMW I've ever owned (actually the best car) and the E92 was the worst. I can't say anything about the F10 yet because I've only had it for a few days.
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| thewho1 (915hp) | OP, I'm asking what wheels you have on your car? 19+ will add a lot to the driving experience and agility. I have 20 Dinans and it makes a difference in cornering feel. Only a slightly wider track gives you the feeling of this maneuverability. I put my original 16s on my E60 (airport racket) and it feels like a boat. I put the E60 550i M Sport wheels on it, it felt much safer. With wider and larger wheels, you now get more lane shifting and smaller maneuvers on the highway. With narrower and smaller wheels you get a smoother ride and less noise.
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| 28101991 (178hp) | Quote: Originally written by krautmeister OP, I'm just asking, what rims do you have on your car? 19+ will add a lot to the driving experience and agility. I have 20 Dinans and it makes a difference in cornering feel. Only a slightly wider track gives you the feeling of this maneuverability. I put my original 16s on my E60 (airport racket) and it feels like a boat. I put the E60 550i M Sport wheels on it, it felt much safer. With wider and larger wheels, you now get more lane shifting and smaller maneuvers on the highway. With narrower and smaller wheels you get a smoother ride and less noise. I know man, I put stock 17" 225/55 Grandpa wheels on my 2011 528 and it's nice on the highway, but cornering it's just so soft and boring. I tested a 535i with massive 20-inch rims and ultra-low profile tires and it made a huge difference. It drove even better. planted more like you said. I found the ride to be completely fine, even though I didn't drive on any uneven sections of road. It felt ten times better and safer when cornering. What do you think of 19 inches with 45 sidewall tires? I want the sidewall to be a bit soft for Toronto streets. Thanks!
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| police11 (591hp) | The only thing that makes my F10 535i better than my E46 330i is the trunk and the ability to accommodate three car seats in the back. Otherwise, it's a massive disappointment in almost every way.
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| Heli G. (208hp) | So this became the F10 bashing thread! Just sell your car, buy something you like, and move on with your life
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| chzhang (238hp) | I dunno, I have the M Sport suspension and while I know the car is heavy (or so I hear), nothing about the ride diminishes my confidence in what the car can do when I need it to . I really don't understand this thread as it would never have occurred to me to even compare a 5 series with a 3 series. Two completely different animals.
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| greenninja (884hp) | Quote: Originally posted by mko9 The only thing that makes my F10 535i better than my E46 330i is the trunk and the ability to accommodate three car seats in the back. Otherwise, it's a massive disappointment in almost every way. I think it depends on what expectations you had when purchasing it. Expecting it to be anything like your old 3 Series is completely unrealistic in my opinion. I'm also guessing you feel the same way about the current F30 as it feels noticeably different to the older 3 series? I'm always amazed at how many people say my 2 Series is so much more nimble than the new 7 Series... um... oh no... In my opinion it's a harsh look at F10. but everyone has the right to their own opinion. Quote: Originally posted by S1ammin I really don't understand this thread as it would never have occurred to me to compare a 5 series with a 3 series in any way. Two completely different animals. Especially E90 and F10. I don't see how you can directly compare anything here, except perhaps looks, fit and finish.
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| 600010 (497hp) | Hi guys, I thought I would briefly write my opinion on the F10 and how I feel after comparing it to the E90 I drove today. Although I absolutely love my F10 and all its luxury amenities, I'm more of a 3 Series guy and after today's test drive of an E90 I got a really good idea of what I'm missing. It was a 328i N52 with a 6-speed manual transmission, rear wheel drive and an M Sport package and it was truly wonderful. For how amazing and nimble it corners, it doesn't handle too badly in a straight line at all and honestly had no discernible difference in high speed stability (around 100mph) over the F10. While my 528i drives beautifully in a straight line, there is far too much suspension travel/body movement on the highway and it is far too unnecessarily heavy. It just feels very detached from the road and the body roll is really unsettling, even on the highway. I love the inside of my F10. It's very spacious, has nice materials, good ergonomics, is very comfortable and just a pleasant place to be, but the driver-focused feel of the E90 is just something I crave after driving my 5 Series. You may be wondering why I didn't just go with the E90 if I love it so much, but I got my 5 Series on a deal that was just too good to pass up (via family) and paired it with the fact that I have it The rare 2011 N52 model is extremely reliable and pleasant to own. I would never sell it for pennies and upgrade to an E90. What do you think of the F10? someone here drove an electric car90?
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| mama55 (24hp) | I owned an E90 328i for about a year. No comparison to my F10. The technology is old, the car was riddled with many problems and the interior would fall apart. Of all the BMWs I've ever owned (97 318, 04 Z4, 07 E90, 08 E60 M5, my current 550 and 05 X3), the E90 was by far the worst. But I think that's because I was always worried about when the next time I would be stranded or when the next repair bill would break the bank.
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