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| password95 (479hp) | It should also be noted that the display is different for petrol and diesel engines. For diesel vehicles, the value should be in the middle due to the scale used. For petrol cars the scaling is different (i.e. the numbers on the gauge) so it should be slightly left of center. Mine is a petrol 535i from Canada and the mid-engine is 120cc, not 100cc like the diesel engines.
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| 070381 (719hp) | Hello! I have a problem with my F10 B47 2015. The temperature display seems to tilt 1-2mm to the right. As far as I know, it should stay dead center and not lean to one side. Please note that strong acceleration in Sport mode, for example, will cause it to drop significantly. My question is whether this is normal as I have heard this is done to get better emissions/consumption. Thanks in advance!
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| 308308 (385hp) | Certainly not normal, and also note that the gauge doesn't actually show the correct oil temperature. Your thermostat may be broken (not opening). Since it is a diesel, a clogged DPF can occur quite quickly. Get it checked.
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| thecadman99 (548hp) | Breakage, I took it to two different mechanics, they both tested it and everything seemed to work fine, they even cleaned the radiators and changed the coolant, to which one of them told me that this was normal because the car does this for the sake of better emissions does consumption, but I didn't really buy it. So you're saying replace the thermostat and see where that goes, right? I also have to mention that I have an ongoing EGR valve recall for this car (I'm still waiting for the parts).)
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| sunshine20 (908hp) | Quote: Originally written by BarbeCan Breach. I took it to two different mechanics, they both tested it and everything seemed to work fine. They even cleaned the radiators and changed the coolant. Afterwards one of them told me that it was normal for the car to do this for better emissions and consumption, but I didn't actually buy it. So you're saying replace the thermostat and see where that goes, right? I also have to mention that I have an ongoing EGR valve recall for this car (I'm still waiting for the parts). The usual cause is a faulty thermostat, yes. Could be something else, but honestly I can't think of anything else. A closed/switched off EGR would also lead to a slower warm-up phase, but should still get up to speed. No idea why they changed the coolant – your problem is too much cooling, not the other way around? Have these mechanics at least read codes??
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| dmitrij.mironov2014 (563hp) | 2013 F10 xdrive with the heat exchanger on the oil filter housing. The center of the oil temperature gauge is 250F. The normal reading for my car is a little under 250°F, which agrees with the owner's manual: “Normal Operating Temperature: The pointer is in the center or left half of the temperature gauge.”
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| niania (678hp) | Breach, I'll replace the thermostat and come back with updates on how that works, thanks!
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| doodie1 (925hp) | Hello folks! I just purchased a 2016 BMW 5 Series F10 2.0 Diesel xdrive 190 HP (B47) two weeks ago with 51,000 km (~31,700 miles) on the clock and I have two questions: 1. My oil temperature gauge never reaches the 100°C mark. Is this normal behavior? Even after 200 km of driving it doesn't reach half the mark. When I put it in sport mode the oil gauge drops to almost 75°C. I've seen in some YouTube videos from other owners that the gauge stays exactly at the halfway mark. The maximum I had is shown in the attached image. I have to mention that there were only temperatures below 10°C/50°F. 2. Are there any recommendations for changing the oil in the differential/transfer case for the xdrive system? Or is there a resource I can use to see what maintenance this car needs? The car is great, I just want to make sure everything is ok. Thanks!
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| 16041990 (347hp) | I'm not sure about the transfer case, but as far as engine oil goes, it never exceeds 100 on a 3l F10. Maybe it's a little closer, but not much compared to your picture. I hope this helps.
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| dirk (468hp) | My 2016 520d 190hp B47 reaches 100°C in both cold and warm weather.
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| vangie (17hp) | Thank you very much! So I suspect I have a problem with the oil temperature gauge. I'll try to investigate this further. Maybe someone has encountered this problem and I will get more answers here.
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| 271081 (278hp) | I think that's normal. On my 2014 petrol F10 the oil temperature never reached half of its temperature, even in 30+°C heat.
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| 220789 (708hp) | The display is normal and for the other question you can search this forum, there is a lot of information available there!
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| tigress (452hp) | I agree – my temperature gauge usually looks like yours.
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| piglet123 (722hp) | Thank you very much! My only concern was whether not reaching the optimal temperature could cause premature wear. It's actually a bit strange that on some cars the display stays on the center line and on others it doesn't.
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| JB335 (710hp) | I'm waiting, maybe someone has solved this problem or has more information about it. Thanks!
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| guadalajar (441hp) | It's normal...
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| annarella (625hp) | Of course that's not normal. It should always be at 100. I have the same problem now. The value has been at 100 for five years and is now just below that 75
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| 070789 (909hp) | A quick note: F10s are equipped with two different types of oil cooling. Coolant-oil or oil-air. The former depends heavily on the coolant temperature. Log your coolant temperatures and make sure they aren't shockingly low, which is usually the result of a faulty thermostat. The latter is separated from the coolant temperature and is regulated by an oil thermostat. Coolant-Oil (which looks like a silver block): Oil-Air (two lines come out).):
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| shane22 (118hp) | It should also be noted that the display is different for petrol and diesel engines. For diesel vehicles, the value should be in the middle due to the scale used. For petrol cars the scaling is different (i.e. the numbers on the gauge) so it should be slightly left of center. Mine is a petrol 535i from Canada and the mid-engine is 120cc, not 100cc like the diesel engines.
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| GIANITALY (296hp) | Hello! I have a problem with my F10 B47 2015. The temperature display seems to tilt 1-2mm to the right. As far as I know, it should stay dead center and not lean to one side. Please note that strong acceleration in Sport mode, for example, will cause it to drop significantly. My question is whether this is normal as I have heard this is done to get better emissions/consumption. Thanks in advance!
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| goddamn1 (993hp) | Certainly not normal, and also note that the gauge doesn't actually show the correct oil temperature. Your thermostat may be broken (not opening). Since it is a diesel, a clogged DPF can occur quite quickly. Get it checked.
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| piano123 (380hp) | Breakage, I took it to two different mechanics, they both tested it and everything seemed to work fine, they even cleaned the radiators and changed the coolant, to which one of them told me that this was normal because the car does this for the sake of better emissions does consumption, but I didn't really buy it. So you're saying replace the thermostat and see where that goes, right? I also have to mention that I have an ongoing EGR valve recall for this car (I'm still waiting for the parts).)
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| northside4 (502hp) | Quote: Originally written by BarbeCan Breach. I took it to two different mechanics, they both tested it and everything seemed to work fine. They even cleaned the radiators and changed the coolant. Afterwards one of them told me that it was normal for the car to do this for better emissions and consumption, but I didn't actually buy it. So you're saying replace the thermostat and see where that goes, right? I also have to mention that I have an ongoing EGR valve recall for this car (I'm still waiting for the parts). The usual cause is a faulty thermostat, yes. Could be something else, but honestly I can't think of anything else. A closed/switched off EGR would also lead to a slower warm-up phase, but should still get up to speed. No idea why they changed the coolant – your problem is too much cooling, not the other way around? Have these mechanics at least read codes??
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| waho (553hp) | 2013 F10 xdrive with the heat exchanger on the oil filter housing. The center of the oil temperature gauge is 250F. The normal reading for my car is a little under 250°F, which agrees with the owner's manual: “Normal Operating Temperature: The pointer is in the center or left half of the temperature gauge.”
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| 27061981 (723hp) | Breach, I'll replace the thermostat and come back with updates on how that works, thanks!
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| acid (833hp) | Sup guys, my 535i immediately went into limp mode and ran rough after I did a donut at an empty intersection. I was just doing a donut and thought my engine stalled for a second because of known issues with seizing on N55 corners in high G corners or on donuts. But I checked the codes and there are fueling errors, which doesn't make sense considering I replaced the pumps. My injectors are also still in relatively good condition. I cleared the codes a few times and the car started smoothly for a few seconds but then just shut off. I started it again and the limp mode disappeared and I was able to drive home without any problems and everything went smoothly (40 minute drive). Any ideas what that could have been?? I feel like this wouldn't have happened if I hadn't done a drift. Was that a coincidence?????
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| william18 (896hp) | Don't tell your insurance company that you made a donut. This way you save money to fix things after the donut. Lol.
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| hossnagy (200hp) | Quote: Originally written by Conserve. Don't tell your insurance company that you made a donut. This way you save money to fix things after the donut. Lol. I mean, my car is fine now and drives like nothing happened. I'm just wondering why it was lagging
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| 02091976 (88hp) | Little gas in the tank? It could simply be that the fuel is sloshing and there is some air from the donut in the line.
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| 090285 (810hp) | Most likely there is fuel sloshing and a lack of fuel in your lines. This is not a drift car so be careful.
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| july03 (606hp) |
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| Roth517 (666hp) | Quote: Originally written by n3985 Low gas in the tank? It could simply be that the fuel is sloshing and there is some air from the donut in the line. I had less than half the tank at this point, but I believe that's actually what happened considering my car is running fine again.
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| 26101987 (291hp) | Sup guys, my 535i immediately went into limp mode and ran rough after I did a donut at an empty intersection. I was just doing a donut and thought my engine stalled for a second because of known issues with seizing on N55 corners in high G corners or on donuts. But I checked the codes and there are fueling errors, which doesn't make sense considering I replaced the pumps. My injectors are also still in relatively good condition. I cleared the codes a few times and the car started smoothly for a few seconds but then just shut off. I started it again and the limp mode disappeared and I was able to drive home without any problems and everything went smoothly (40 minute drive). Any ideas what that could have been?? I feel like this wouldn't have happened if I hadn't done a drift. Was that a coincidence?????
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| E_J_Fudd (525hp) | Don't tell your insurance company that you made a donut. This way you save money to repair things after the donut. Lol.
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| models1 (58hp) | Quote: Originally written by Conserve. Don't tell your insurance company that you made a donut. This way you save money to fix things after the donut. Lol. I mean, my car is fine now and drives like nothing happened. I'm just wondering why it was lagging
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| dunhill (929hp) | Little gas in the tank? It could simply be that the fuel is sloshing and there is some air from the donut in the line.
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| sexpistols (646hp) | Most likely there is fuel sloshing and a lack of fuel in your lines. This is not a drift car so be careful.
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| 25121977 (536hp) |
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| david6 (977hp) | Quote: Originally written by n3985 Low gas in the tank? It could simply be that the fuel is sloshing and there is some air from the donut in the line. I had less than half the tank at this point, but I believe that's actually what happened considering my car is running fine again.
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| e92_335i (130hp) | Hello everyone, I'm having a strange problem with my forward collision warning and active cruise control. At startup it says it is inactive and neither system is working. No codes are stored in the computer either. My car's front bumper was recently repaired after it collided with debris on the highway. Immediately after the accident, the active cruise control did not work. I noticed that there was a frayed wire behind the left grille. When I moved it, the active cruise control worked fine after that. After the bumper was repaired, the cruise control system worked fine until a week later. It behaved a little rough on the highway, then shut off completely and stayed off ever since. Any ideas? Do I need a new sensor??
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| alalal (908hp) | Hello everyone, I'm having a strange problem with my forward collision warning and active cruise control. At startup it says it is inactive and neither system is working. No codes are stored in the computer either. My car's front bumper was recently repaired after it collided with debris on the highway. Immediately after the accident, the active cruise control did not work. I noticed that there was a frayed wire behind the left grille. When I moved it, the active cruise control worked fine after that. After the bumper was repaired, the cruise control system worked fine until a week later. It behaved a little rough on the highway, then shut off completely and stayed off ever since. Any ideas? Do I need a new sensor??
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| 1025 (130hp) | Hello everyone, I need advice please. My 2011 523i F10 makes a loud whistling noise when driving, especially momentarily when I take my foot off the accelerator, and a persistent high-pitched whine (screeching or whistling) when I stop, such as at a traffic light. It happens more frequently in the morning on the first drive and goes away when the car is either turned off and on or when I drive it later in the day when it's warmer. It comes and goes. I've already changed the oil once and then it's gone. However, I'm not sure if it has anything to do with the oil. I use BMW LL01 oil and the car has 197,000 km. Any help would be greatly appreciated. I have a video that I just don't know how to post. It's pretty big since it's 3 minutes long. Greetings Nicolene
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| zener (501hp) | The oil filter may be the cause of the whining noise. Sometimes the filter may be cracked, collapsed or the O-ring may be torn, which may be the reason why it sometimes disappears after an oil change. I hope this helps.
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| pass.word (255hp) | I would say it is most likely a PCV valve issue
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| brooke07 (107hp) | Quote: Originally posted by DementedF10 I would say it is most likely a PCV valve issue. Yes, I would start with that.
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| monster6 (323hp) | Thank you for the advice. I will inspect the (PCV), the oil filter and also the transmission fluid. Please advise that PCV can whistle without accompanying up/down/up/down speed?
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| tobago (872hp) | Hello everyone, I need advice please. My 2011 523i F10 makes a loud whistling noise when driving, especially momentarily when I take my foot off the accelerator, and a persistent high-pitched whine (screeching or whistling) when I stop, such as at a traffic light. It happens more frequently in the morning on the first drive and goes away when the car is either turned off and on or when I drive it later in the day when it's warmer. It comes and goes. I've already changed the oil once and then it's gone. However, I'm not sure if it has anything to do with the oil. I use BMW LL01 oil and the car has 197,000 km. Any help would be greatly appreciated. I have a video that I just don't know how to post. It's pretty big since it's 3 minutes long. Greetings Nicolene
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| karissa (223hp) | The oil filter may be the cause of the whining noise. Sometimes the filter may be cracked, collapsed or the O-ring may be torn, which may be the reason why it sometimes disappears after an oil change. I hope this helps.
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| rawkee1 (765hp) | I would say it's most likely a PCV valve issue
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| bmw750 (35hp) | Quote: Originally posted by DementedF10 I would say it is most likely a PCV valve issue. Yes, I would start with that.
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| tyler1234 (172hp) | Thank you for the advice. I will inspect the (PCV), the oil filter and also the transmission fluid. Please advise that PCV can whistle without accompanying up/down/up/down speed?
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| ohmygod1 (836hp) | I recently received a quote for $1,700 to replace the oil pan on my BMW. Oil has been leaking for some time. When I first took it to my private mechanic they couldn't find the leak. That was about 1 1/2 months ago. I brought it in yesterday and received the offer. My question is, could this be due to the recent “massive” timing chain repair I performed on October 20, 2023? I noticed the leak around the beginning of December of that year, about a month after the work was completed. Is there any chance that this repair should be done under the warranty of the previous repair? Thank you in advance for any comments or opinions.
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| zkexifz (854hp) | Yes, OPG must be removed to create an N20 timing chain and guide. The lower sprocket is only accessible from below. If repaired properly, there should be no leak from the OPG.
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| 9111 (981hp) | I recently received a quote for $1,700 to replace the oil pan on my BMW. Oil has been leaking for some time. When I first took it to my private mechanic they couldn't find the leak. That was about 1 1/2 months ago. I brought it in yesterday and received the offer. My question is, could this be due to the recent “massive” timing chain repair I performed on October 20, 2023? I noticed the leak around the beginning of December of that year, about a month after the work was completed. Is there any chance that this repair should be done under the warranty of the previous repair? Thanks in advance for any comments or opinions.
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| wayne22 (599hp) | Yes, OPG must be removed to create an N20 timing chain and guide. The lower sprocket is only accessible from below. If repaired properly, there should be no leak from the OPG.
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| baseball35 (625hp) | Well, after two years without a BMW, I got back in with a 2011 BMW 535i in Havana Brown with Oyster Dakota leather. I found it on eBay and will be picking it up from the seller in New Jersey next weekend. It is a beautiful, well-maintained second hand car with only 90,000 miles. I can't wait to pick it up. I have had four BMWs since my first BMW which I purchased in around 2004: 1994 740iL 2003 530i 6MT 2011 528i 2019 540xi. I loved this 7 Series, but the higher the miles, the more frequent and expensive the repairs became. The 530i was fun, but on the roads around Washington, DC the sport suspension was just too stiff and made driving a bit uncomfortable. The 528i was a sort of stripped-down model, without heated seats etc., and after about four years I bought the 540xi new. It was a great car with a wonderful driver interface for navigation, phone, etc., but the steering wheel shake and adaptive cruise control were annoying to me and I didn't like having to turn them off to avoid them. So after a small accident during the pandemic, I sold it back to the dealer. After a long search, I have now found what I think I always wanted. A 6-speed manual transmission F10 with all the extras.
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| mexico101 (268hp) | Welcome back! Very nice choice!
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| goodnight (56hp) | Great color combination!
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| 2040 (482hp) | Welcome back, buddy. If you need a list of things to check, there are plenty of resources here. The most basic things include: -Valve cover and/or gasket -Oil cooler and OFH seals -Rod bearings (depending on MX history) -Oil pressure sensor leaking -Pressure arm bushings (front control arms).)
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| harryp (539hp) | Quote: Originally posted by armity.f10 Welcome back, buddy. If you need a list of things to check, there are plenty of resources here. The most basic things include: -Valve cover and/or gasket -Oil cooler and OFH seals -Rod bearings (depending on MX history) -Oil pressure sensor leak -Pressure arm bushings (front control arms) Thanks, poverty! It's been a while and this is a good list to start with to make sure I have it around for quite a while. I'll be picking it up next weekend and can't wait to drive the manual transmission. I've had two automatic F10s and just know the manual will be a lot more fun!
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| baikal (580hp) | I have the same car (minus 6 speed and X drive). Great driving car.
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| lovebug13 (34hp) | Quote: Originally posted by armity.f10 Welcome back, buddy. If you need a list of things to check, there are plenty of resources here. The most basic things include: -Valve cover and/or gasket -Oil cooler and OFH seals -Rod bearings (depending on MX history) -Oil pressure sensor leak -Pressure arm bushings (front control arms) Since you've provided that initial list, how about this? the water pump? I read that it can fail without warning because it is electrical, not mechanical, and thought it might make sense to replace it as part of preventative maintenance. Thoughts? Is it easy for a reasonably competent DIYer? Or buried in a location that requires extensive engine disassembly to replace.
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| kravchenko (305hp) | Quote: Originally posted by 6MT guy Now that you've provided that initial list, what about the water pump? I read that it can fail without warning because it is electrical, not mechanical, and thought it might make sense to replace it as part of preventative maintenance. Thoughts? Is it easy for a reasonably competent DIYer? Or buried in a location that requires extensive engine disassembly to replace. For your viewing pleasure... These videos seem incredibly short and you can imagine the actual repair taking hours.
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| bigdog13 (703hp) | Quote: Originally posted by 6MT guy Now that you've provided that initial list, what about the water pump? I read that it can fail without warning because it is electrical, not mechanical, and thought it might make sense to replace it as part of preventative maintenance. Thoughts? Is it easy for a reasonably competent DIYer? Or buried in a location that requires extensive engine disassembly to replace. I've only done it on N52 engines. Repairing these is very easy. Easier than I thought. I did the radiator and all the hoses at the same time.
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| westside3 (256hp) | Good looking car 6MT. I bought my first BMW (535I) last November, early 2011, also with a 6-speed manual transmission. Mine had 119,000 miles on it when I bought it, now it has 129,000. First BMW for me as I was a Dodge Cummins guy for many years and I just got bored. This car has been absolutely fabulous so far!!!! I did manual transmission and differential fluid changes as well as two oil changes (I'm a 3,000 mile oil changer). OFHG and OCHG are scheduled to be replaced/changed in the next two weeks, my valve cover gasket and PCV hose look good. Congratulations on the new ride.
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| 3155530 (794hp) | Well, after two years without a BMW, I got back in with a 2011 BMW 535i in Havana Brown with Oyster Dakota leather. I found it on eBay and will be picking it up from the seller in New Jersey next weekend. It is a beautiful, well-maintained second hand car with only 90,000 miles. I can't wait to pick it up. I have had four BMWs since my first BMW which I purchased in around 2004: 1994 740iL 2003 530i 6MT 2011 528i 2019 540xi. I loved this 7 Series, but the higher the miles, the more frequent and expensive the repairs became. The 530i was fun, but on the roads around Washington, DC the sport suspension was just too stiff and made driving a bit uncomfortable. The 528i was a sort of stripped-down model, without heated seats etc., and after about four years I bought the 540xi new. It was a great car with a wonderful driver interface for navigation, phone, etc., but the steering wheel shake and adaptive cruise control were annoying to me and I didn't like having to turn them off to avoid them. So after a small accident during the pandemic, I sold it back to the dealer. After a long search, I have now found what I think I always wanted. A 6-speed manual transmission F10 with all the extras.
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| 1forme (673hp) | Welcome back! Very nice choice!
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| a1b2c3d4 (240hp) | Great color combination!
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| icanfly (125hp) | Welcome back, buddy. If you need a list of things to check, there are plenty of resources here. The most basic things include: -Valve cover and/or gasket -Oil cooler and OFH seals -Rod bearings (depending on MX history) -Oil pressure sensor leaking -Pressure arm bushings (front control arms).)
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| greene1 (170hp) | Quote: Originally posted by armity.f10 Welcome back, buddy. If you need a list of things to check, there are plenty of resources here. The most basic things include: -Valve cover and/or gasket -Oil cooler and OFH seals -Rod bearings (depending on MX history) -Oil pressure sensor leak -Pressure arm bushings (front control arms) Thanks, poverty! It's been a while and this is a good list to start with to make sure I have it around for quite a while. I'll be picking it up next weekend and can't wait to drive the manual transmission. I've had two automatic F10s and just know the manual will be a lot more fun!
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| mickey9 (80hp) | I have the same car (minus 6 speed and X drive). Great driving car.
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| sean22 (536hp) | Quote: Originally posted by armity.f10 Welcome back, buddy. If you need a list of things to check, there are plenty of resources here. The most basic things include: -Valve cover and/or gasket -Oil cooler and OFH seals -Rod bearings (depending on MX history) -Oil pressure sensor leak -Pressure arm bushings (front control arms) Since you've provided that initial list, how about this? the water pump? I read that it can fail without warning because it is electrical, not mechanical, and thought it might make sense to replace it as part of preventative maintenance. Thoughts? Is it easy for a reasonably competent DIYer? Or buried in a location that requires extensive engine disassembly to replace.
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| 1michael (417hp) | Quote: Originally posted by 6MT guy Now that you've provided that initial list, what about the water pump? I read that it can fail without warning because it is electrical, not mechanical, and thought it might make sense to replace it as part of preventative maintenance. Thoughts? Is it easy for a reasonably competent DIYer? Or buried in a location that requires extensive engine disassembly to replace. For your viewing pleasure... These videos seem incredibly short and you can imagine the actual repair taking hours.
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| bones123 (246hp) | Quote: Originally posted by 6MT guy Now that you've provided that initial list, what about the water pump? I read that it can fail without warning because it is electrical, not mechanical, and thought it might make sense to replace it as part of preventative maintenance. Thoughts? Is it easy for a reasonably competent DIYer? Or buried in a location that requires extensive engine disassembly to replace. I've only done it on N52 engines. Repairing these is very easy. Easier than I thought. I did the radiator and all the hoses at the same time.
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| honey21 (694hp) | Good looking car 6MT. I bought my first BMW (535I) last November, early 2011, also with a 6-speed manual transmission. Mine had 119,000 miles on it when I bought it, now it has 129,000. First BMW for me as I was a Dodge Cummins guy for many years and I just got bored. This car has been absolutely fabulous so far!!!! I did manual transmission and differential fluid changes as well as two oil changes (I'm a 3,000 mile oil changer). OFHG and OCHG are scheduled to be replaced/changed in the next two weeks, my valve cover gasket and PCV hose look good. Congratulations on the new ride.
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| cguarini (672hp) | Hello, I was wondering if anyone knows which coolant hose this is? I couldn't figure out the part number. 2013 535i
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| gonefishing (753hp) | Seems like an oil leak to me
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| 111983 (526hp) | I would look under your oil filter housing, look underneath and show us some pictures. I see a little oil and also the discoloration of what looks like coolant. Advise you to look closely.
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| password: (496hp) | The hose I'm showing is split and leaking coolant
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| 12321232 (880hp) | This looks like your coolant recovery tank hose section 5 in the P/N diagram: 17127583175.
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| ivan1989 (639hp) | Hello, I was wondering if anyone knows which coolant hose this is? I couldn't figure out the part number. 2013 535i
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| lampard123 (982hp) | Seems like an oil leak to me
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| grease1 (626hp) | I would look under your oil filter housing, look underneath and show us some pictures. I see a little oil and also the discoloration of what looks like coolant. Advise you to look closely.
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| 29111990 (772hp) | The hose I'm showing is split and leaking coolant
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| paspas (877hp) | This looks like your coolant recovery tank hose section 5 in the P/N diagram: 17127583175.
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| pho (840hp) | Hello folks. I had a question about retrofitting a rear view camera on my LCI 528i. I stopped by to talk to the dealer but they have no idea if this will work or not and only wanted to charge a dime for the parts. If I were to purchase the backup camera, wiring harness, and controller, would I need anything else to get this project up and running? I know I'll probably need some coding after installing it, so I'll have to learn that too. But is there anything else I should pay attention to...? Thank you for any help!
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| yetunde (858hp) | If you just want ideas, check out bimmertech. No matter how you do it, it won't be cheap.
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| 1sexygurl (747hp) | Quote: Originally posted by wcr3d If you just want ideas, check out bimmertech. No matter how you do it, it won't be cheap. A friend of mine can get me a used set from the car junkyard, but I'm not sure I'd need anything else. As it looks on Bimmertech's details page, the OEM system includes the camera, camera module and wiring harness. and then a coding interface. So I think I'm on the right track, but wanted to get some additional feedback.
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| rocker123 (470hp) | I strongly recommend you contact Patryk from Bimmertech. He sells a complete OEM kit and other aftermarket options as well. OEM solution requires PDC (bumper sensors). The following items are required: New trunk handle and camera, camera module and camera module mounting harness (including power cable, Canbus cable and video signal to the control unit). HSD cable for the camera to the module. Once this is installed, you will need to do VO encoding to enable the option.
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| 070792 (720hp) | Quote: Originally written by claykin. I strongly recommend you contact Patryk from Bimmertech. He sells a complete OEM kit and other aftermarket options as well. OEM solution requires PDC (bumper sensors). The following items are required: New trunk handle and camera, camera module and camera module mounting harness (including power cable, Canbus cable and video signal to the control unit). HSD cable for the camera to the module. Once this is installed, you will need to do VO encoding to enable the option. I need someone to explain to me which one is in the 7 wire connector in TRSVC. I already knew KCAN H and L - GROUND - Shield, what CVBS + and - is and which leads to the fuse box and which slot the cable has to be plugged into.
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| 12345678qw (3hp) | Hello, I have a BMW F10 2013 car without rear camera option, so I need to add a rear camera TRSVC and coding. I need help with coding. Thanks
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| sweet21 (536hp) | Hello folks. I had a question about retrofitting a rear view camera on my LCI 528i. I stopped by to talk to the dealer but they have no idea if this will work or not and only wanted to charge a dime for the parts. If I were to purchase the backup camera, wiring harness, and controller, would I need anything else to get this project up and running? I know I'll probably need some coding after installing it, so I'll have to learn that too. But is there anything else I should pay attention to...? Thank you for any help!
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| andreas1 (512hp) | If you just want ideas, check out bimmertech. No matter how you do it, it won't be cheap.
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| chestnut1 (571hp) | Quote: Originally posted by wcr3d If you just want ideas, check out bimmertech. No matter how you do it, it won't be cheap. A friend of mine can get me a used set from the car junkyard, but I'm not sure I'd need anything else. As it looks on Bimmertech's details page, the OEM system includes the camera, camera module and wiring harness. and then a coding interface. So I think I'm on the right track, but wanted to get some additional feedback.
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| irene123 (766hp) | I strongly recommend you contact Patryk from Bimmertech. He sells a complete OEM kit and other aftermarket options as well. OEM solution requires PDC (bumper sensors). The following items are required: New trunk handle and camera, camera module and camera module mounting harness (including power cable, Canbus cable and video signal to the control unit). HSD cable for the camera to the module. Once this is installed, you will need to do VO encoding to enable the option.
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| mrkitty1 (516hp) | Quote: Originally written by claykin. I strongly recommend you contact Patryk from Bimmertech. He sells a complete OEM kit and other aftermarket options as well. OEM solution requires PDC (bumper sensors). The following items are required: New trunk handle and camera, camera module and camera module mounting harness (including power cable, Canbus cable and video signal to the control unit). HSD cable for the camera to the module. Once this is installed, you will need to do VO encoding to enable the option. I need someone to explain to me which one is in the 7 wire connector in TRSVC. I already knew KCAN H and L - GROUND - Shield, what CVBS + and - is and which leads to the fuse box and which slot the cable has to be plugged into.
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| newowner35i (349hp) | Hello, I have a BMW F10 2013 car without rear camera option, so I need to add a rear camera TRSVC and coding. I need help with coding. Thanks
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| mckinley (803hp) | I have a 2016 528i xDrive (N20 engine) and wanted to go to Stage 1 or even Stage 2 immediately. Is there anything I need to pay attention to? I'm pretty sure the timing chain is attached on the newer models, and I've already ordered a charge pipe since those are known to break, but is there anything I need to worry about? I only got the car about two weeks ago so I don't know much about the reliability etc.
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| balla (279hp) | Quote: Originally posted by visionsf10 I have a 2016 528i xDrive (N20 engine) and wanted to switch to Stage 1 or even Stage 2 immediately. Is there anything I need to pay attention to? I'm pretty sure the timing chain is attached on the newer models, and I've already ordered a charge pipe since those are known to break, but is there anything I need to worry about? I only got the car about two weeks ago so I don't know much about the reliability etc. I would look back at the car's history and catch up on any overdue maintenance. Hopefully you used the car fax to check previous oil change intervals when you made your purchase. Changing the oil is extremely important on these vehicles, especially the N20. The new parts should be available in 2016, but I would still like to know if the oil changes were done before I converted an N20. The charging tube is all that is really needed for level 1 tuning. For stage 2, a downpipe and a larger intercooler are recommended. While you're at it, I'd do the XHP Stage 3 trans tuning, it really adds to the experience.
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| hitachi1 (70hp) | I have a 2016 528i xDrive (N20 engine) and wanted to go to Stage 1 or even Stage 2 immediately. Is there anything I need to pay attention to? I'm pretty sure the timing chain is attached on the newer models, and I've already ordered a charge pipe since those are known to break, but is there anything I need to worry about? I only got the car about two weeks ago so I don't know much about the reliability etc.
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| katie17 (609hp) | Quote: Originally posted by visionsf10 I have a 2016 528i xDrive (N20 engine) and wanted to switch to Stage 1 or even Stage 2 immediately. Is there anything I need to pay attention to? I'm pretty sure the timing chain is attached on the newer models, and I've already ordered a charge pipe since those are known to break, but is there anything I need to worry about? I only got the car about two weeks ago so I don't know much about the reliability etc. I would look back at the car's history and catch up on any overdue maintenance. Hopefully you used the car fax to check previous oil change intervals when you made your purchase. Changing the oil is extremely important on these vehicles, especially the N20. There should be new parts in 2016, but I would still like to know if the oil changes were done before I converted an N20. The charging tube is all that is really needed for level 1 tuning. For stage 2, a downpipe and a larger intercooler are recommended. While you're at it, I'd do the XHP Stage 3 trans tuning, it really adds to the experience.
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| 1234anna (297hp) | Hello everyone, I would like to know which suspension part or parts would be best suited to improve the suspension in terms of handling and steering on my base suspension model 2015 BMW 528i. Recently I installed Bridgestone Driveguard Plus run-flat tires, which made the steering and handling characteristics surprisingly worse than the Goodyear LS 2 run-flat tires that were previously installed on my car. Now I'm thinking about the best and most efficient way to improve the characteristics listed above. Any information would certainly be helpful as I am currently looking for a good website to purchase these parts from.
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| onlygod (50hp) | If you don't have X-Drive, you have more suspension/shock options, which is a plus. First I would prepare you mentally. A 5 second scan of your post history indicates E60s and E90s. Be prepared to be disappointed with the F10 driver's car. (My story is E39, E46 and E90) It is not a development E34 ->, E39 ->, E60. It's a small 7 instead of a big 3 and is built to meet different consumer needs than the older cars. If you've experienced previous models, the steering will never feel good in comparison. You can use coilovers or something like Bilstein B6 (but I would say there is a lack of well thought out spring options to slightly lower and firm up the suspension without prioritizing poor appearance - maybe Dinan). This is one of the reasons I chose coilovers - I can adjust the ride height and adjust ridiculous looking cants that spring builders put in on purpose. There's also a lot of back and forth on the stabilizer bar options. The H&R and Eibach kits are almost identical, but in my personal experience the 30mm bar at the front is a bit large and results in negative side effects due to insufficient independent action throughout the car (IMO). None of this is necessarily cheap. If you have DHP, EDC, ARS, etc. you should actually be in pretty good shape with it turned on and working properly.
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| 091291 (921hp) | Quote: Originally posted by Bmoney2K4 Hello everyone, I would like to know which suspension part or parts would be best suited to improve the suspension in terms of handling and steering on my base suspension model 2015 BMW 528i. Recently I installed Bridgestone Driveguard Plus run-flat tires, which made the steering and handling characteristics surprisingly worse than the Goodyear LS 2 run-flat tires that were previously installed on my car. Now I'm thinking about the best and most efficient way to improve the characteristics listed above. Any information would certainly be helpful as I'm currently looking for a good website to purchase these parts from. Wouldn't it be easiest and most cost-effective to go back to Goodyear RFTs while your tires are still new enough? Not all RFTs are created equal and I would personally rank Bridgestone RFT at the bottom for comfort and usability. Additionally, in my opinion, their brand exhibits an unacceptable level of rolling noise (if there is such a thing) even after the break-in period)..
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| 281294 (806hp) | Ditch the RFTs and get some Michelin Pilot All Season 4. The difference will be staggering!
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| miss.marina.nikolaeva.2013 (210hp) | I race my 550i xdrive F10 and run the stock suspension. On the road I drive all year round with Michelin Pilot Sport 4 (there are better track tires). If you drive it right, it's a real BMW underneath the softness and lean, and you can easily triple or quadruple any posted cornering speed limit. You are only at the limit when you hear a howl and feel a chafing. Tires make a bigger difference in your ride than any suspension mod. They are the only thing in contact with the road and their grip limits your handling, braking and acceleration. In contrast to changing tires, replacing dampers, springs, etc. does not lead to a significant improvement in driving behavior. Do not drive all year round or with RFT. If you want good grip, ride with dedicated summer performance tires when the weather permits. Your improvement will be a revelation. When people say I want to improve the handling, what they really mean is the ride feel/quality. You're not really trying to drive the car to the limit and improve cornering speed. They simply prefer the feel of a stiffer driving car. This can actually lead to poorer handling as too stiff a suspension will cause the tires to lose contact with the road when going over bumps/potholes, reducing your grip. For most people, driving on the road means confidence, wandering around and feeling connected to the car, so I don't get nervous driving at highway speeds in a construction zone. I'm not trying to reduce my lap times by going 4 mph more through the 60 mph corner, which I want to do at 129 mph instead 125.....
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| 121971 (152hp) | I suggest purchasing the MSport anti-roll bars as a first step to firm up the suspension. Good luck.
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| lisalisa1 (877hp) | How many miles does your car have? Mine is at 93k and it feels much sturdier after refreshing the front and rear control arms/bushings. As mentioned by ChiNorm, M sport stabilizers are stiffer. I chose the H&R 30mm front sway bar, it is slightly stiffer than the factory M Sport sway bar.
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| 1spencer (273hp) | Quote: Originally posted by smokinu454 How many miles are left on your car? Mine is at 93k and it feels much sturdier after refreshing the front and rear control arms/bushings. As mentioned by ChiNorm, M sport stabilizers are stiffer. I chose the H&R 30mm front sway bar, it is slightly stiffer than the factory M Sport sway bar. 42,850 miles.
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| 7777777j (646hp) | Quote: Originally posted by Bmoney2K4 42,850 miles. It's unlikely that you'll have many worn parts at this mileage, but it's possible. I would definitely sniff around and make sure all of your bushings, ball joints, tie rod ends, etc. are still nice and tight. The best thing you can do for the car's handling is to make sure the suspension is still tight. After that I would leave the run flats off, upgrade sway bars and see how you like it. I think coilovers would be next.
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| jayman (353hp) | Hello everyone, I would like to know which suspension part or parts would be best suited to improve the suspension in terms of handling and steering on my base suspension model 2015 BMW 528i. Recently I installed Bridgestone Driveguard Plus run-flat tires, which made the steering and handling characteristics surprisingly worse than the Goodyear LS 2 run-flat tires that were previously installed on my car. Now I'm thinking about the best and most efficient way to improve the characteristics listed above. Any information would certainly be helpful as I am currently looking for a good website to purchase these parts from.
|
| 090184 (49hp) | If you don't have X-Drive, you have more suspension/shock options, which is a plus. First I would prepare you mentally. A 5 second scan of your post history indicates E60s and E90s. Be prepared to be disappointed with the F10 driver's car. (My story is E39, E46 and E90) It is not a development E34 ->, E39 ->, E60. It's a small 7 instead of a big 3 and is built to meet different consumer needs than the older cars. If you've experienced previous models, the steering will never feel good in comparison. You can use coilovers or something like Bilstein B6 (but I would say there is a lack of well thought out spring options to slightly lower and firm up the suspension without prioritizing poor appearance - maybe Dinan). This is one of the reasons I chose coilovers - I can adjust the ride height and adjust ridiculous looking cants that spring builders put in on purpose. There's also a lot of back and forth on the stabilizer bar options. The H&R and Eibach kits are almost identical, but in my personal experience the 30mm bar at the front is a bit large and results in negative side effects due to insufficient independent action throughout the car (IMO). None of this is necessarily cheap. If you have DHP, EDC, ARS, etc. you should actually be in pretty good shape with it turned on and working properly.
|
| 05061988 (907hp) | Quote: Originally posted by Bmoney2K4 Hello everyone, I would like to know which suspension part or parts would be best suited to improve the suspension in terms of handling and steering on my base suspension model 2015 BMW 528i. Recently I installed Bridgestone Driveguard Plus run-flat tires, which made the steering and handling characteristics surprisingly worse than the Goodyear LS 2 run-flat tires that were previously installed on my car. Now I'm thinking about the best and most efficient way to improve the characteristics listed above. Any information would certainly be helpful as I'm currently looking for a good website to purchase these parts from. Wouldn't it be easiest and most cost-effective to go back to Goodyear RFTs while your tires are still new enough? Not all RFTs are created equal and I would personally rank Bridgestone RFT at the bottom for comfort and usability. Additionally, in my opinion, their brand exhibits an unacceptable level of rolling noise (if there is such a thing) even after the break-in period)..
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| bookbook (665hp) | Ditch the RFTs and get some Michelin Pilot All Season 4. The difference will be staggering!
|
| p00per (740hp) | I race my 550i xdrive F10 and run the stock suspension. On the road I drive all year round with Michelin Pilot Sport 4 (there are better track tires). If you drive it right, it's a real BMW underneath the softness and lean, and you can easily triple or quadruple any posted cornering speed limit. You are only at the limit when you hear a howl and feel a chafing. Tires make a bigger difference in your ride than any suspension mod. They are the only thing in contact with the road and their grip limits your handling, braking and acceleration. In contrast to changing tires, replacing dampers, springs, etc. does not lead to a significant improvement in driving behavior. Do not drive all year round or with RFT. If you want good grip, ride with dedicated summer performance tires when the weather permits. Your improvement will be a revelation. When people say I want to improve the handling, what they really mean is the ride feel/quality. You're not really trying to drive the car to the limit and improve cornering speed. They simply prefer the feel of a stiffer driving car. This can actually lead to poorer handling as too stiff a suspension will cause the tires to lose contact with the road when going over bumps/potholes, reducing your grip. For most people, driving on the road means confidence, wandering around and feeling connected to the car, so I don't get nervous driving at highway speeds in a construction zone. I'm not trying to reduce my lap times by going 4 mph more through the 60 mph corner, which I want to do at 129 mph instead 125.....
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| 231195 (590hp) | I suggest purchasing the MSport anti-roll bars as a first step to firm up the suspension. Good luck.
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| ARSC (386hp) | How many miles does your car have? Mine is at 93k and it feels much more secure after refreshing the front and rear control arms/bushings. As mentioned by ChiNorm, M sport stabilizers are stiffer. I chose the H&R 30mm front sway bar, it is slightly stiffer than the factory M Sport sway bar.
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| loser9 (250hp) | Quote: Originally posted by smokinu454 How many miles are left on your car? Mine is at 93k and it feels much sturdier after refreshing the front and rear control arms/bushings. As mentioned by ChiNorm, M sport stabilizers are stiffer. I chose the H&R 30mm front sway bar, it is slightly stiffer than the factory M Sport sway bar. 42,850 miles.
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| 29031994 (338hp) | Quote: Originally posted by Bmoney2K4 42,850 miles. It's unlikely that you'll have many worn parts at this mileage, but it's possible. I would definitely sniff around and make sure all of your bushings, ball joints, tie rod ends, etc. are still nice and tight. The best thing you can do for the car's handling is to make sure the suspension is still tight. After that I would leave the run flats off, upgrade sway bars and see how you like it. I think coilovers would be next.
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