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| 26071979 (537hp) | Quote: Originally written by vladmury I would never buy a 520d, but a 530d if you want a diesel. The 2.0 liter engine is too small for such a heavy car. I've owned all sorts of models, from a 2015 520d, a 2012 523i, a 2011 525d to a 530d and also a 640d. I disagree, the 520d isn't a fireball, but it's perfectly adequate. Today I had three quarters of a ton of slate in the trunk of my current 520d and everything was fine uphill and downhill. In comparison, my Macan S doesn't feel much faster. A 520i or a 518d, no matter how you push your luck, it's the one that stands out the most on the highway! Since I'm still a racehorse, it took me quite a while to get sold on a six cylinder car since I now get high mileage and could use more than the 30 gallon per gallon that my larger diesel and gas engines gave me . My advice, as always, would be to drive a few of these and see what you think. Depending on the treatment, not all models of the same car drive the same.
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| 060191 (159hp) | I'm also looking for a 520d Touring 2013+. What things should I check or is there anything I need to know? I look at ones that have around 70,000 miles on the clock
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| maggiedog (896hp) | Hello everyone, this is my first post of hopefully many in the future. I want to buy a 520d Touring in the next few months and was wondering what I should look out for and check in order to get as problem-free a car as possible. I'm looking at: - Year of manufacture 2013+ - Approximately 70,000 miles - SE or M Sport - Automatic transmission - Service history - Less than 2 owners. Ideally I would like one with the DRL facelift, which I think was 2013? And I was also wondering what the automatic transmission looks like on these? Are they generally reliable? And what about the dreaded timing chain I often read about? Has this been eliminated for vehicles from 2013? Thank you for your advice in advance
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| katy123 (774hp) | Hello everyone, this is my first post of hopefully many in the future. I want to buy a 520d Touring in the next few months and was wondering what I should look out for and check in order to get as problem-free a car as possible. I'm looking at: - Year of manufacture 2013+ - Approximately 70,000 miles - SE or M Sport - Automatic transmission - Service history - Less than 2 owners. Ideally I would like one with the DRL facelift, which I think was 2013? And I was also wondering what the automatic transmission looks like on these? Are they generally reliable? And what about the dreaded timing chain I often read about? Has this been eliminated for vehicles from 2013? Thank you for your advice in advance
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| yeahright (75hp) | Sorry if this isn't the wrong place. This is my first post. I have a 2012 BMW 528 xi. When I turned left the other day, I noticed a loud clicking noise. I got down there and the axle boot is torn and I can feel the teeth of the axle when I put my finger in it. What do I need to replace? Along with the clicking noise, there is sometimes violent vibration as if the wheel is not properly centered.
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| kitty8 (239hp) | Quote: Originally written by Bte151515. If this isn't the wrong place, I'm sorry, this is my first post. I have a 2012 BMW 528 xi. When I turned left the other day, I noticed a loud clicking noise. I got down there and the axle boot is torn and I can feel the teeth of the axle when I put my finger in it. What do I need to replace? Along with the clicking noise, there is sometimes violent vibration as if the wheel is not properly centered. Don't drive it anymore!!! It will soon fail completely, crashing you or at least causing thousands in damage. Step one: Go to realoem.com. Enter the last seven of your VIN number, find the axle you need and note the part number. Step two: Go to partsgeek.com, enter the part number and find the best price (or just go to fcpeuro, great prices and lifetime warranty on everything). Step three: Go to newtis.info. Enter the last seven Vin and find replacement instructions
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| beatrix (282hp) | I completely agree with Sophisticated Redneck. Don't drive it anymore. Axle shafts aren't usually that bad. I've done a few, but none on an F10 xDrive. Generally, on the wheel side you will need to remove: brakes, caliper and rotor, axle retaining nut, bearing assembly and perhaps a few suspension parts to pull the shaft out of the front differential. On the diff side there are usually several small retaining nuts and such. Take the time to read through the Newtis information and make sure you have all the correct tools, parts, torque, etc. If you do the work yourself, please take photos and post your experiences here for posterity. I've done this several times in other forums over the last 30 years (before YouTube...) (I would have been a YouTube star if I had had this before we had kids). Anyway, I still go back to these forums just to see how many thousands of views I got and hopefully people who benefited from a few extra hours of my time.
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| 30061990 (768hp) | +1 You even found a video on YouTube of someone doing this for the F10. I would still follow the instructions on the website above as this guy took a few shortcuts he shouldn't have, but at least you can see the work isn't that bad. Most people freak out
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| alex94 (550hp) | Everyone is right EXCEPT the fact that it doesn't crash when you drive it. You won't have an accident or get into danger if you drive like this. If you want to play it safe until you get the replacement axle, you can remove the front driveshaft and drive normally so that the transfer case does not transfer power to the front wheels. The vehicle's suspension is constructed similarly to a non-XDrive model, except that the strut is a fork design to allow the axle to pass through the center to the wheel hub. If you wish, you can remove the front drive axles and drive normally. I know because I did it for a year until they had my axle in stock. I removed my front driveshaft myself without any problem. So rest and breathe. However, you must perform the tasks mentioned because there is no grease to lubricate the ball bearings in the axle as it rotates. But it is actually drivable for your mechanic.
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| ersatz (240hp) | HizEternal, I respectfully disagree. When the outer shaft separates from the hub/wheel assembly while driving, the shaft rotates freely and hits anything in the way - including steering and suspension components. It can be mobile. However, I don't want to be behind the wheel when something like this happens, or be on the road near someone stupid enough to risk the lives of those around them when they have a known major mechanical problem with their car. Personally, I think people with your attitude are responsible for unnecessary accidents. Yes, you could separate the axle. But that's a pretty hackneyed way to drive. If you have this problem, just replace the part and do it right. Have some respect for yourself and others on the road.
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| 180977 (236hp) | Quote: Originally posted by F10Dan HizEternal, I respectfully disagree. When the outer shaft separates from the hub/wheel assembly while driving, the shaft rotates freely and hits anything in the way - including steering and suspension components. It can be mobile. However, I don't want to be behind the wheel when something like this happens, or be on the road near someone stupid enough to risk the lives of those around them when they have a known major mechanical problem with their car. Personally, I think people with your attitude are responsible for unnecessary accidents. Yes, you could separate the axle. But that's a pretty hackneyed way to drive. If you have this problem, just replace the part and do it right. Have some respect for yourself and others on the road. It is obvious that with what you are talking about you do not have such experience with an xdrive F10. The axle remains intact and cannot fall out or hit anything. It simply won't be able to absorb power and spin the wheel. The size of the axle prevents it from doing exactly what you fear. The bearings fail and become out of round, causing the clicking. There is a subtle, and I mean subtle, aspect, as the strut itself and the hub are what make the difference between the xdrive and non-xdrive models, in addition to the obvious components of the front differential and transfer case. The suspension is perfectly capable of keeping the front end intact, but neglecting it will result in this. Xdrive models. I had a broken axle myself and didn't realize it until I was on the way to replacing it. You can make as many judgments as you like, but at least make sure to use actual experience with the car we're talking about, as well as the research available to all of us. Short-distance journeys are also possible here, as slow speeds are safely possible.
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| BalSingh (574hp) | Sorry if this isn't the wrong place. This is my first post. I have a 2012 BMW 528 xi. When I turned left the other day, I noticed a loud clicking noise. I got down there and the axle boot is torn and I can feel the teeth of the axle when I put my finger in it. What do I need to replace? Along with the clicking noise, there is sometimes violent vibration as if the wheel is not properly centered.
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| 041091 (414hp) | Quote: Originally written by Bte151515. If this isn't the wrong place, I'm sorry, this is my first post. I have a 2012 BMW 528 xi. When I turned left the other day, I noticed a loud clicking noise. I got down there and the axle boot is torn and I can feel the teeth of the axle when I put my finger in it. What do I need to replace? Along with the clicking noise, there is sometimes violent vibration as if the wheel is not properly centered. Don't drive it anymore!!! It will soon fail completely, crashing you or at least causing thousands in damage. Step one: Go to realoem.com. Enter the last seven of your VIN number, find the axle you need and note the part number. Step two: Go to partsgeek.com, enter the part number and find the best price (or just go to fcpeuro, great prices and lifetime warranty on everything). Step three: Go to newtis.info. Enter the last seven Vin and find replacement instructions
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| kelly4 (513hp) | I completely agree with Sophisticated Redneck. Don't drive it anymore. Axle shafts aren't usually that bad. I've done a few, but none on an F10 xDrive. Generally, on the wheel side you will need to remove: brakes, caliper and rotor, axle retaining nut, bearing assembly and perhaps a few suspension parts to pull the shaft out of the front differential. On the diff side there are usually several small retaining nuts and such. Take the time to read through the Newtis information and make sure you have all the correct tools, parts, torque, etc. If you do the work yourself, please take photos and post your experiences here for posterity. I've done this several times in other forums over the last 30 years (before YouTube...) (I would have been a YouTube star if I had had this before we had kids). Anyway, I still go back to these forums just to see how many thousands of views I got and hopefully people who benefited from a few extra hours of my time.
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| buffer (217hp) | +1 You even found a video on YouTube of someone doing this for the F10. I would still follow the instructions on the website above as this guy took a few shortcuts he shouldn't have, but at least you can see the work isn't that bad. Most people freak out
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| 400037 (222hp) | Everyone is right EXCEPT the fact that it doesn't crash when you drive it. You won't have an accident or get into danger if you drive like this. If you want to play it safe until you get the replacement axle, you can remove the front driveshaft and drive normally so that the transfer case does not transfer power to the front wheels. The vehicle's suspension is constructed similarly to a non-XDrive model, except that the strut is a fork design to allow the axle to pass through the center to the wheel hub. If you wish, you can remove the front drive axles and drive normally. I know because I did it for a year until they had my axle in stock. I removed my front driveshaft myself without any problem. So rest and breathe. However, you must perform the tasks mentioned because there is no grease to lubricate the ball bearings in the axle as it rotates. But it is actually drivable for your mechanic.
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| cookies7 (956hp) | HizEternal, I respectfully disagree. When the outer shaft separates from the hub/wheel assembly while driving, the shaft rotates freely and hits anything in the way - including steering and suspension components. It can be mobile. However, I don't want to be behind the wheel when something like this happens, or be on the road near someone stupid enough to risk the lives of those around them when they have a known major mechanical problem with their car. Personally, I think people with your attitude are responsible for unnecessary accidents. Yes, you could separate the axle. But that's a pretty hackneyed way to drive. If you have this problem, just replace the part and do it right. Have some respect for yourself and others on the road.
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| shrek3 (24hp) | Quote: Originally posted by F10Dan HizEternal, I respectfully disagree. When the outer shaft separates from the hub/wheel assembly while driving, the shaft rotates freely and hits anything in the way - including steering and suspension components. It can be mobile. However, I don't want to be behind the wheel when something like this happens, or be on the road near someone stupid enough to risk the lives of those around them when they have a known major mechanical problem with their car. Personally, I think people with your attitude are responsible for unnecessary accidents. Yes, you could separate the axle. But that's a pretty hackneyed way to drive. If you have this problem, just replace the part and do it right. Have some respect for yourself and others on the road. It is obvious that with what you are talking about you do not have such experience with an xdrive F10. The axle remains intact and cannot fall out or hit anything. It simply won't be able to absorb power and spin the wheel. The size of the axle prevents it from doing exactly what you fear. The bearings fail and become out of round, causing the clicking. There is a subtle, and I mean subtle, aspect, as the strut itself and the hub are what make the difference between the xdrive and non-xdrive models, in addition to the obvious components of the front differential and transfer case. The suspension is perfectly capable of keeping the front end intact, but neglecting it will result in this. Xdrive models. I had a broken axle myself and didn't realize it until I was on the way to replacing it. You can make as many judgments as you like, but at least make sure to use actual experience with the car we're talking about, as well as the research available to all of us. Short-distance journeys are also possible here, as slow speeds are safely possible.
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| 250177 (180hp) | UPDATE: Installed. Guys, I wanted to get a feel for what you all think of these rims on an F10? There shouldn't be a problem due to the size/offset. I wanted to take 255 35 R20 at the front and 295 30 R20 at the rear. Available features: 20 x 9.5 front, 20 x 10.5 rear, screw pattern: 5 x 120, offset: +35 mm, color: gunmetal/machined face, hub: 74.1 mm. Do you think I would need this? Hub centering ring, I also have 5mm spacers at the moment but I don't think I would need them. Please chime in and let me know your thoughts? Too busy?
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| 07121990 (476hp) | Honestly, way too busy.
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| dance09 (456hp) | Quote: Originally posted by NewM3driver Honestly, way too busy. I think I agree. You may need to Photoshop it on an F10 to make sure you like the look before pulling the trigger.
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| 14071992 (852hp) | Quote: Originally posted by Bake I think I agree. You may need to Photoshop it on an F10 to make sure you like the look before pulling the trigger. I think that would definitely help. I thought they either looked too busy or great, thanks.
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| flight1 (866hp) | Yes, you need a hub centering ring, and these tire sizes are too large. Should have a 35 profile at the front and a 30 profile at the back. And I think 20x9.5 ET35 will be near the struts in front.
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| nathan03 (72hp) | That's just my opinion, but on a sedan like a 5 Series they seem a little ghetto-like - too busy and noticeable, they are the visual focal point of the car, not necessarily flattering, quite the opposite.
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| woogie (366hp) | Quote: Originally posted by NewM3driver Honestly, way too busy. +1
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| shantung (192hp) | AFAIK, these are only available in 21
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| boniface (293hp) | However, they are SICK wheels
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| backhoe (24hp) | Quote: Originally posted by remmib Yes, you need a hub centering ring, and these tire sizes are too big. Should have a 35 profile at the front and a 30 profile at the back. And I think 20x9.5 ET35 will be near the struts in front. Okay, I'm going to check this again because I have a buddy with a 535i and I'm pretty sure he has a 9.5 in the front, but I need to check his offset. Thanks
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| katelynn1 (117hp) | Quote: Originally written by Chili Palmer. This is just my opinion, but on a sedan like a 5 Series they seem a little ghetto - too busy and noticeable, they are the visual point of the car, not necessarily flattering, but quite the opposite. Hey man, I don't blame you. I'm on the wrong path with them. I appreciate the opinions of 5 contributor members, thanks
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| auburn12 (155hp) | Quote: Originally posted by Ridiculous AFAIK. These are only available in 21. They are available in 20 and 21 - aftermarket 100% in 20. Thank you for your opinion. Some of my friends like them that way too, I'm still not sure. They're different and I've certainly never seen them on a 5 Series or a sedan.
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| 111111s (564hp) | Dude, you should definitely use these wheels!
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| tempo1 (660hp) | I can't know for sure, but I don't think these would look good at all on the 5 series, too busy in my opinion.
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| finance1 (297hp) | They looked great on my buddy's E70
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| afroman (456hp) | I've always loved these rims... I say go for it!
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| amo-te (907hp) | I like the rims for a sports car - but not really for the 5 Series. However, I'll reserve final judgment until I see a photoshopped image.
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| 411027 (487hp) | I love the wheels but not sure how they will work on a 5 either. Since you had access to a kit, have you tried putting them on the car? Depending on the color of your car, powder coating may also look good...
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| prophecy (155hp) | Quote: Originally posted by Das Johnson Dude, you should definitely use these wheels! Maybe yes...lol
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| guitare1 (185hp) | Quote: Originally posted by Ridiculous, they looked amazing on my buddy's E70. Yes, I saw them on an E70 and they look good...it has a nice roll
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| BMW49 (525hp) | Quote: Originally posted by The Beast I love the wheels, but I'm not sure how they'll work on a 5 either. Since you had access to a kit, have you tried putting them on the car? Depending on the color of your car, powder coating may also look good. I didn't do it back then, but I plan to do it. I've just been busy and besides it's winter here so I have until spring to decide on a new summer setup of wheels. I don't want to jump into something too quickly. I have a black 5 Series so for the contrasting look I'll either stick with the original paint or? I've already achieved bronze... I like it, but I don't want to do it again... Do you have an idea yet? Hyperaluminum red? Hehe, kidding
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| tombraider (530hp) | Quote: Originally posted by TJBentley I've always loved these rims... I say go for it! Well, it would be original...I've never seen it on a sedan before
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| ellaine (137hp) | UPDATE: Installed. Guys, I wanted to get a feel for what you all think of these rims on an F10? There shouldn't be a problem due to the size/offset. I wanted to take 255 35 R20 at the front and 295 30 R20 at the rear. Available features: 20 x 9.5 front, 20 x 10.5 rear, screw pattern: 5 x 120, offset: +35 mm, color: gunmetal/machined face, hub: 74.1 mm. Do you think I would need this? Hub centering ring, I also have 5mm spacers at the moment but I don't think I would need them. Please chime in and let me know your thoughts? Too busy?
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| 271078 (273hp) | Honestly, way too busy.
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| 26061988 (156hp) | Quote: Originally posted by NewM3driver Honestly, way too busy. I think I agree. You may need to Photoshop it on an F10 to make sure you like the look before pulling the trigger.
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| kingman1 (60hp) | Quote: Originally posted by Bake I think I agree. You may need to Photoshop it on an F10 to make sure you like the look before pulling the trigger. I think that would definitely help. I thought they either looked too busy or great, thanks.
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| rehman (889hp) | Yes, you need a hub centering ring, and these tire sizes are too large. Should have a 35 profile at the front and a 30 profile at the back. And I think 20x9.5 ET35 will be near the struts in front.
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| boquita (57hp) | That's just my opinion, but on a sedan like a 5 Series they seem a little ghetto-like - too busy and noticeable, they are the visual focal point of the car, not necessarily flattering, quite the opposite.
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| JMc2018 (506hp) | Quote: Originally posted by NewM3driver Honestly, way too busy. +1
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| nokia6020 (288hp) | AFAIK, these are only available in 21
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| Blue Hornet (317hp) | However, they are SICK wheels
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| 27051990 (516hp) | Quote: Originally posted by remmib Yes, you need a hub centering ring, and these tire sizes are too big. Should have a 35 profile at the front and a 30 profile at the back. And I think 20x9.5 ET35 will be near the struts in front. Okay, I'm going to check this again because I have a buddy with a 535i and I'm pretty sure he has a 9.5 in the front, but I need to check his offset. Thanks
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| michael44 (594hp) | Quote: Originally written by Chili Palmer. This is just my opinion, but on a sedan like a 5 Series they seem a little ghetto - too busy and noticeable, they are the visual point of the car, not necessarily flattering, but quite the opposite. Hey man, I don't blame you. I'm on the wrong path with them. I appreciate the opinions of 5 contributor members, thanks
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| sierra117 (695hp) | Quote: Originally posted by Ridiculous AFAIK. These are only available in 21. They are available in 20 and 21 - aftermarket 100% in 20. Thank you for your opinion. Some of my friends like them that way too, I'm still not sure. They're different and I've certainly never seen them on a 5 Series or a sedan.
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| pink32 (817hp) | Dude, you should definitely use these wheels!
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| 13111978 (545hp) | I can't know for sure, but I don't think these would look good at all on the 5 series, too busy in my opinion.
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| bhavani (560hp) | They looked great on my buddy's E70
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| 16091984 (470hp) | I've always loved these rims... I say go for it!
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| cherry08 (21hp) | I like the rims for a sports car - but not really for the 5 Series. However, I'll reserve final judgment until I see a photoshopped image.
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| caitlin12 (78hp) | I love the wheels but not sure how they will work on a 5 either. Since you had access to a kit, have you tried putting them on the car? Depending on the color of your car, powder coating may also look good...
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| 842655 (97hp) | Quote: Originally posted by Das Johnson Dude, you should definitely use these wheels! Maybe yes...lol
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| skunk1 (270hp) | Quote: Originally posted by Ridiculous, they looked amazing on my buddy's E70. Yes, I saw them on an E70 and they look good...it has a nice roll
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| anika1 (28hp) | Quote: Originally posted by The Beast I love the wheels, but I'm not sure how they'll work on a 5 either. Since you had access to a kit, have you tried putting them on the car? Depending on the color of your car, powder coating may also look good. I didn't do it back then, but I plan to do it. I've just been busy and besides it's winter here so I have until spring to decide on a new summer setup of wheels. I don't want to jump into something too quickly. I have a black 5 Series so for the contrasting look I'll either stick with the original paint or? I've already achieved bronze... I like it, but I don't want to do it again... Do you have an idea yet? Hyperaluminum red? Hehe, kidding
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| Antwerp (914hp) | Quote: Originally posted by TJBentley I've always loved these rims... I say go for it! Well, it would be original...I've never seen it on a sedan before
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| 197930 (141hp) | After starting I feel a strange drop in speed. Occurs in about 50% of cases. I thought maybe they were worn/dirty spark plugs since I was just over 60k and haven't changed them yet. Today I finally had time to replace my spark plugs, the process went smoothly. The car definitely feels livelier and pulls well, but I still get occasional drops in revs. Any ideas? Could it be a bad coil? Thanks.
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| avenue (624hp) | The same thing happens to me too, 2011 535 x 56,000 miles. I noticed the problem after recalling the fuel pump and replacing the spark plug and battery. However, there were no problems driving, any help would be appreciated.
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| sunmoon (490hp) | Quote: Originally posted by sammykinz Same thing happens to me too, 2011 535 x 56,000 miles. I noticed the problem after recalling the fuel pump and replacing the spark plug and battery. However, there were no problems driving, any help would be appreciated. Interesting. I had my fuel pump recalled last fall, but this problem didn't appear until last month. I'm wondering if it could be a bad coil?
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| daddyyankee (54hp) | Mine has a strange drop in RPM when I first start it in the morning, but the car drives normally. The car has covered approximately 65,000 miles today.
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| jahlove (335hp) | All 35i's I've had have done this. The BMW dealer told me it was normal my first time and I haven't worried about it since. My X3 has an M-Sport exhaust and makes a lot of noise when starting cold. During cold starts my 535 sometimes runs like my Evo with camera. (I kind of like it, lol )
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| inads (296hp) | Quote: Originally posted by 203banshee, all the 35is I've had have done this. The first time a BMW dealer told me it was normal, I haven't worried since. My X3 has an M-Sport exhaust and makes a lot of noise when starting cold. During cold starts my 535 sometimes runs like my Evo with camera. (I kind of like it lol) Definitely common with 535s. It's even worse if you keep the valves open on a quad exhaust.
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| bennington (212hp) | I notice the same thing with my 2013 535i with over 80,000 miles. I replaced the spark plugs about 25,000 miles ago. When I first start it in the morning it has this weird drop in rpm but the car drives normally. Previously the speed started at 1200rpm and then dropped to around 900-1000rpm about 30 seconds later, which I think is normal. But now it drops first and then levels out.
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| 12345678qw (284hp) | My problem was ultimately a defective Valvetronic motor.
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| 200596 (200hp) | After starting I feel a strange drop in speed. Occurs in about 50% of cases. I thought maybe they were worn/dirty spark plugs since I was just over 60k and haven't changed them yet. Today I finally had time to replace my spark plugs, the process went smoothly. The car definitely feels livelier and pulls well, but I still get occasional drops in revs. Any ideas? Could it be a bad coil? Thanks.
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| creative123 (116hp) | The same thing happens to me too, 2011 535 x 56,000 miles. I noticed the problem after recalling the fuel pump and replacing the spark plug and battery. However, there were no problems driving, any help would be appreciated.
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| gio (691hp) | Quote: Originally posted by sammykinz Same thing happens to me too, 2011 535 x 56,000 miles. I noticed the problem after recalling the fuel pump and replacing the spark plug and battery. However, there were no problems driving, any help would be appreciated. Interesting. I had my fuel pump recalled last fall, but this problem didn't appear until last month. I'm wondering if it could be a bad coil?
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| 111968 (634hp) | Mine has a strange drop in RPM when I first start it in the morning, but the car drives normally. The car has covered approximately 65,000 miles today.
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| malaikat (877hp) | All 35i's I've had have done this. The BMW dealer told me it was normal my first time and I haven't worried about it since. My X3 has an M-Sport exhaust and makes a lot of noise when starting cold. During cold starts my 535 sometimes runs like my Evo with camera. (I kind of like it, lol )
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| jack33 (711hp) | Quote: Originally posted by 203banshee, all the 35is I've had have done this. The first time a BMW dealer told me it was normal, I haven't worried since. My X3 has an M-Sport exhaust and makes a lot of noise when starting cold. During cold starts my 535 sometimes runs like my Evo with camera. (I kind of like it lol) Definitely common with 535s. It's even worse if you keep the valves open on a quad exhaust.
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| meandme (777hp) | I notice the same thing with my 2013 535i with over 80,000 miles. I replaced the spark plugs about 25,000 miles ago. When I first start it in the morning it has this weird drop in rpm but the car drives normally. Previously the speed started at 1200rpm and then dropped to around 900-1000rpm about 30 seconds later, which I think is normal. But now it drops first and then levels out.
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| mouse12 (235hp) | My problem was ultimately a defective Valvetronic motor.
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| maarkp (820hp) | Right after I got home two days ago, I opened the filler cap and added some oil because the oil level was low. Then the next day half of the oil I poured the day before was on the floor. So now I know I'm wondering if I might have messed something up by doing this? Hi guys, I'm trying to figure out an oil leak on my 14' 528i. I walked to a puddle of oil overnight that appeared to be a small leak. I cleaned the underside and let the car drain overnight. Then I added oil again, hoping to see where the oil is coming from and if it is really leaking from the oil pan, because replacing it is a big job and I want to convince myself that this is my problem before I drive through all difficulties. Thanks in advance!
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| 041184 (950hp) | No. Clearly there is something else going on, that is the question.
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| farah123 (81hp) | Quote: Originally written by Paul.004 Right after I got home two days ago, I opened the filler cap and added some oil because the oil level was low. Then the next day half of the oil I poured the day before was on the floor. So now I know I'm wondering if I might have messed something up by doing this? Hi guys, I'm trying to figure out an oil leak on my 14' 528i. I walked to a puddle of oil overnight that appeared to be a small leak. I cleaned the underside and let the car drain overnight. Then I added oil again, hoping to see where the oil is coming from and if it is really leaking from the oil pan, because replacing it is a big job and I want to convince myself that this is my problem before I drive through all difficulties. Thanks in advance! I'm really confused. To answer your question in the first paragraph, I suspect you may have missed the oil filler hole. The second paragraph... I... um... What is the question??
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| kristen7 (699hp) | Right after I got home two days ago, I opened the filler cap and added some oil because the oil level was low. Then the next day half of the oil I poured the day before was on the floor. So now I know I'm wondering if I might have messed something up by doing this? Hi guys, I'm trying to figure out an oil leak on my 14' 528i. I walked to a puddle of oil overnight that appeared to be a small leak. I cleaned the underside and let the car drain overnight. Then I added oil again, hoping to see where the oil is coming from and if it is really leaking from the oil pan, because replacing it is a big job and I want to convince myself that this is my problem before I drive through all difficulties. Thanks in advance!
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| klingon (216hp) | No. Clearly there is something else going on, that is the question.
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| alexis6 (268hp) | Quote: Originally written by Paul.004 Right after I got home two days ago, I opened the filler cap and added some oil because the oil level was low. Then the next day half of the oil I poured the day before was on the floor. So now I know I'm wondering if I might have messed something up by doing this? Hi guys, I'm trying to figure out an oil leak on my 14' 528i. I walked to a puddle of oil overnight that appeared to be a small leak. I cleaned the underside and let the car drain overnight. Then I added oil again, hoping to see where the oil is coming from and if it is really leaking from the oil pan, because replacing it is a big job and I want to convince myself that this is my problem before I drive through all difficulties. Thanks in advance! I'm really confused. To answer your question in the first paragraph, I suspect you may have missed the oil filler hole. The second paragraph... I... um... What is the question??
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| dragon1 (505hp) | Hello everyone! Just wondering if anyone has painted their front lower grills? Post pictures. I ordered some (Msport) fog light delete grilles and would like to paint them glossy black somehow. I thought I'll do the middle bottom grill too while I'm at it. Does anyone know if it affects adaptive cruise control? TIA
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| sexybabe12 (532hp) | You can use sem paint or local bumper trim paint. I used it on all of my E34 trim pieces. Looks good, just protects the speed sensor and everything is fine!
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| sruthi (888hp) | Not the same bumper, but this is how my grills turned out after I decided whether to leave them as is or paint them jet black? I asked my colleagues here and they all suggested letting her paint. So here's the before and after, here it's installed. I think it's a night and day difference, so let them paint in my opinion
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| ringer1 (652hp) | Yes, I had a good pervert on your lsturb! Damn beautiful! Thanks for the advice e38740. I'll try to make sure I don't paint any sensors
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| okechukwu (439hp) | Hello everyone! Just wondering if anyone has painted their front lower grills? Post pictures. I ordered some (Msport) fog light delete grilles and would like to paint them glossy black somehow. I thought I'll do the middle bottom grill too while I'm at it. Does anyone know if it affects adaptive cruise control? TIA
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| MuayThai35 (583hp) | You can use sem paint or local bumper trim paint. I used it on all of my E34 trim pieces. Looks good, just protects the speed sensor and everything is fine!
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| chris1990 (758hp) | Not the same bumper, but this is how my grills turned out after I decided whether to leave them as is or paint them jet black? I asked my colleagues here and they all suggested letting her paint. So here's the before and after, here it's installed. I think it's a night and day difference, so let them paint in my opinion
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| daniel27 (332hp) | Yes, I had a good pervert on your lsturb! Damn beautiful! Thanks for the advice e38740. I'll try to make sure I don't paint any sensors
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| indigo (7hp) | https://www.dropbox.com/s/58y5g5hvtr..._2822.MOV?dl=0 528,535 or 550 Edit: It's a 528i with the GTS Black racing chip
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| coldwater (234hp) | 528i or 535i. Doesn't sound like a V8.
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| bigd123 (48hp) | Quote: Originally posted by khanmohammed https://www.dropbox.com/s/58y5g5hvtr..._2822.MOV?dl=0 528,535, or 550 My guess is 535
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| therealjoeyj (31hp) | https://www.dropbox.com/s/58y5g5hvtr..._2822.MOV?dl=0 528,535 or 550 Edit: It's a 528i with the GTS Black racing chip
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| travis69 (74hp) | 528i or 535i. Doesn't sound like a V8.
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| mustang90 (291hp) | Quote: Originally posted by khanmohammed https://www.dropbox.com/s/58y5g5hvtr..._2822.MOV?dl=0 528,535, or 550 My guess is 535
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| spongbob (995hp) | I'm sure it's obvious to some of the knowledgeable people here, but I'm a little confused considering what I see under the hood. From my reading, I found that the Xdrive models have hydraulic power steering while the rear wheel drive models have electric. For this reason, there is a parking assistant on the rear-wheel drive, but not on the XDrive. I have a 2015 550i with rear wheel drive, integrated active steering and park assist. But when I open the hood, I see a power steering fluid reservoir in front of the engine compartment on the driver's side. So... electric or hydraulic?
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| volcom3 (271hp) | Quote: Originally written by Walmark. I'm sure it's obvious to some of the knowledgeable people here, but I'm a little confused based on what I see under the hood. From my reading, I found that the Xdrive models have hydraulic power steering while the rear wheel drive models have electric. This is why you can have park assist on rear-wheel drive, but not on XDrive. I have a 2015 550i with rear wheel drive, integrated active steering and park assist. But when I open the hood, I see a power steering fluid reservoir in front of the engine compartment on the driver's side. So... electric or hydraulic? Do you have Adaptive Drive? (DHP). ARS (active roll stabilization) uses a hydraulic pump and acts as if HPAS were installed. I have EPS and the hydraulic components for ARS in my 535i.
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| 600010 (656hp) | Quote: Originally posted by HighlandPete Do you have Adaptive Drive? (DHP). ARS (active roll stabilization) uses a hydraulic pump and acts as if HPAS were installed. I have EPS and the hydraulic components for ARS in my 535i. Okay, that makes sense. I have an adaptive driving system with ARS. I just didn't know that it uses power steering fluid and a reservoir for the hydraulics. Do you know if it also has a belt driven power steering pump to pressurize the fluid? Or is it electric?
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| righton (577hp) | Quote: Originally posted by Walmark Ok, that makes sense. I have an adaptive driving system with ARS. I just didn't know that it uses power steering fluid and a reservoir for the hydraulics. Do you know if it also has a belt driven power steering pump to pressurize the fluid? Or is it electric? Yes, belt driven and runs at pressure reduced without load. The xDrive models with HPAS use the same pump and auxiliary components for steering and ARS.
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| 199222 (654hp) | Quote: Originally posted by HighlandPete Do you have Adaptive Drive? (DHP). ARS (active roll stabilization) uses a hydraulic pump and acts as if HPAS were installed. I have EPS and the hydraulic components for ARS in my 535i. By the way: Do you often notice body swaying with ARS? 15 535i Msport with DHP/ARS had terrible body roll. More than any car I've driven recently. It was almost as if ARS wasn't there at all. Very very smooth roll control. Especially in comfort mode. Things were a little flatter in sport mode. But still nothing like the table-flat ARS in my old 2010 535i Msport with ARS.
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| hell0kitty (124hp) | Quote: Originally posted by thakid22 Quote: Originally posted by HighlandPete Do you have Adaptive Drive? (DHP). ARS (active roll stabilization) uses a hydraulic pump and acts as if HPAS were installed. I have EPS and the hydraulic components for ARS in my 535i. By the way: Do you often notice body swaying with ARS? 15 535i Msport with DHP/ARS had terrible body roll. More than any car I've driven recently. It was almost as if ARS wasn't there at all. Very very smooth roll control. Especially in comfort mode. Things were a little flatter in sport mode. But still nothing like the table-flat ARS in my old 2010 535i Msport with ARS. It's hard for me to say that. There's definitely some body roll, but I guess it's less than what I'd expect from a car this size. Then again, I've never ridden without a 550 (heavy!), so it's hard to compare.
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| barbarella (562hp) | I'm sure it's obvious to some of the knowledgeable people here, but I'm a little confused considering what I see under the hood. From my reading, I found that the Xdrive models have hydraulic power steering while the rear wheel drive models have electric. For this reason, there is a parking assistant on the rear-wheel drive, but not on the XDrive. I have a 2015 550i with rear wheel drive, integrated active steering and park assist. But when I open the hood, I see a power steering fluid reservoir in front of the engine compartment on the driver's side. So... electric or hydraulic?
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| christian2 (381hp) | Quote: Originally written by Walmark. I'm sure it's obvious to some of the knowledgeable people here, but I'm a little confused based on what I see under the hood. From my reading, I found that the Xdrive models have hydraulic power steering while the rear wheel drive models have electric. This is why you can have park assist on rear-wheel drive, but not on XDrive. I have a 2015 550i with rear wheel drive, integrated active steering and park assist. But when I open the hood, I see a power steering fluid reservoir in front of the engine compartment on the driver's side. So... electric or hydraulic? Do you have Adaptive Drive? (DHP). ARS (active roll stabilization) uses a hydraulic pump and acts as if HPAS were installed. I have EPS and the hydraulic components for ARS in my 535i.
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| 08031994 (463hp) | Quote: Originally posted by HighlandPete Do you have Adaptive Drive? (DHP). ARS (active roll stabilization) uses a hydraulic pump and acts as if HPAS were installed. I have EPS and the hydraulic components for ARS in my 535i. Okay, that makes sense. I have an adaptive driving system with ARS. I just didn't know that it uses power steering fluid and a reservoir for the hydraulics. Do you know if it also has a belt driven power steering pump to pressurize the fluid? Or is it electric?
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| sasuke1234 (503hp) | Quote: Originally posted by Walmark Ok, that makes sense. I have an adaptive driving system with ARS. I just didn't know that it uses power steering fluid and a reservoir for the hydraulics. Do you know if it also has a belt driven power steering pump to pressurize the fluid? Or is it electric? Yes, belt driven and runs at pressure reduced without load. The xDrive models with HPAS use the same pump and auxiliary components for steering and ARS.
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| cutiepie23 (944hp) | Quote: Originally posted by HighlandPete Do you have Adaptive Drive? (DHP). ARS (active roll stabilization) uses a hydraulic pump and acts as if HPAS were installed. I have EPS and the hydraulic components for ARS in my 535i. By the way: Do you often notice body swaying with ARS? 15 535i Msport with DHP/ARS had terrible body roll. More than any car I've driven recently. It was almost as if ARS wasn't there at all. Very very smooth roll control. Especially in comfort mode. Things were a little flatter in sport mode. But still nothing like the table-flat ARS in my old 2010 535i Msport with ARS.
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| 00114477 (343hp) | Quote: Originally posted by thakid22 Quote: Originally posted by HighlandPete Do you have Adaptive Drive? (DHP). ARS (active roll stabilization) uses a hydraulic pump and acts as if HPAS were installed. I have EPS and the hydraulic components for ARS in my 535i. By the way: Do you often notice body swaying with ARS? 15 535i Msport with DHP/ARS had terrible body roll. More than any car I've driven recently. It was almost as if ARS wasn't there at all. Very very smooth roll control. Especially in comfort mode. Things were a little flatter in sport mode. But still nothing like the table-flat ARS in my old 2010 535i Msport with ARS. It's hard for me to say that. There's definitely some body roll, but I guess it's less than what I'd expect from a car this size. Then again, I've never ridden without a 550 (heavy!), so it's hard to compare.
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| telekom (242hp) | I have been noticing this condensation in the driver side headlights for a week. I did some research, a small amount is supposed to be normal, but what do you think, is that normal? Doesn't look like it to me
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| maria15 (821hp) | You can't really see it in the picture, but it's also in the white eyebrow area of the headlight
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| q1w (28hp) | I have never noticed condensation in the headlights of my F10 and have owned the car for over 6 years. I would take the bulb out, let it dry, and check the cover to see if the gasket/o-ring is cracked. Reassemble it and see if the problem reoccurs.
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| diego11 (557hp) | Good advice, I'll do that, thanks. The car is now 5 years old and has never had a problem with the headlights, but the first time for everything I think
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| emma13 (861hp) | A friend of mine had the same problem when he took the car to the dealer. He was told it was not an OEM headlight. I suspect the car was in an accident and someone installed an aftermarket headlight.
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| innovation (936hp) | Place a few silica packets in the lamp to keep condensation down. I use these when building a series of retrofitted lights. https://www.amazon.com/10-Gram-Premi...ca+gel+packets
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| physics1 (739hp) | Quote: Originally written by EL Jeffe 5 A friend of mine had the same problem when he took the car to the dealer. He was told it was not an OEM headlight. I suspect the car was in an accident and someone installed an aftermarket headlight. It would be a shame for your friend if he didn't know that it was an aftermarket kit
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| searcher (911hp) | Quote: Originally posted by DaHeadlightGuy Add a few silica packets to the lamp to keep condensation down. I use these when building a series of retrofitted lights. https://www.amazon.com/10-Gram-Premi...ca+gel+packets Thanks, I'll definitely try it. So take out the headlight bulb and put it there. How would I retrieve them?
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| aaaa (105hp) | I wouldn't want that in my headlights. Have you ever checked the cover seals???
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| MDivPower (880hp) | Quote: Originally posted by TJBentley. Screw your boyfriend if he didn't know it was aftermarket. The opportunity we take when buying a used car sucks. The headlight costs about 2.000 $?
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