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| theodora (180hp) | As for the bushings, I used Akebono on a previous BMW (2006 325i) and recently changed to Akebono on my current f10. Previously I noticed a lot less dust and they seemed like decent pads for busy city driving. Time will tell with the change to the current vehicle. I have never replaced the wear sensor either, I have always reused the old ones if they are not damaged..
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| triana (873hp) | Quote: Originally Posted by xxpanipuri Does anyone want to share your experience on replacing your OEM rotors/pads...have you gone to the aftermarket? stuck with OEM? Why did you go into the secondary market? strictly the cost? performance? My rear pads need to be replaced and I'm trying to figure out the best route to take. my main concern is performance, which includes not only braking performance, but also NO chatter/squealing when braking...I'm not the car, so I don't need something high end. .. just something as good as OEM if not a little better... just seeing what others have done... Thanks! Be aware that modern BMW vehicles are equipped with very grippy brake pads. The initial bite they offer is superb. Press the brake a little and they seize with immediacy and authority. Most aftermarket pads struggle to retain all the initial bite of OEM BMW pads. Aftermarket pads can offer: Less dust Linear feel Less discoloration Longer pad life Increased rotor life But be wary of any aftermarket pad that says it has an initial bite equal to that OEM pads. Simply DON'T do it. This includes some of the popular pads from HAwk, Ebc, Powerstop, Stoptech, etc. The Textar ePads don't bite as well either. Some people don't like the "catchy" feel of OEM pads. Replacement pads will alleviate this quite effectively. But if you enjoy traditional BMW, ultra-responsive pedal feel and response, you'll be better served by OEM pads. Also note that BMW pads on one axle and aftermarket pads on the other (front/rear) will also change the bias of your brakes. And this bias will vary again as the temperature of the buffers changes. Again, some may not notice it, but it's there. Your profile says you have a 550i... To get OEM BMW performance, get OEM pads. If you want an upgraded pad, you can order M5 rear brake pads for a little more bite and fade resistance, but with more dust. The M5 rear pads fit directly into the rear of the 550i. No other parts are needed. Here, remember that M5 front pads do not fit (without other parts), so you will have stock fronts and M5 rears. This will increase the rear bias a bit. I mention bias because the DSC, ELSD, Traction Control and Corner Brake Control systems "expect" and are calibrated to a set of stock characteristics. Changing the pads slightly affects these systems. I thought I could live with aftermarket pads to get less brake dust. But the reduction in pedal response and initial bite muffled the brakes to an un-BMW-like state, in my opinion. Now I use stock pads, but would like to have an aftermarket pad with an OEM bite with the benefits of a high performance pad. One more thing, if the replacement pad you are looking for is a ceramic pad, it will almost certainly have a quieter feel and braking response than the original parts. I hope this information helps you select a good pad for your particular needs.
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| robby123 (928hp) | I installed the Brembo OEM equivalent (rotors and pads). Same BMW feeling in terms of pedal and braking performance.
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| Evoking (633hp) | I ended up sticking to the OEM pads/rotors for my rear brakes... (the fronts are still good) I used aftermarket pads in my last BMW and always had minimal brake dust but increased noise and less initial bite...thanks for everyone's input.
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| newbie1 (925hp) | Does anyone want to share your experience on replacing your OEM rotors/pads...have you gone to the aftermarket? stuck with OEM? Why did you go into the secondary market? strictly the cost? performance? My rear pads need to be replaced and I'm trying to figure out the best route to take. my main concern is performance, which includes not only braking performance, but also NO chatter/squealing when braking...I'm not the car, so I don't need something high end. ..just something as good as OEM if not a bit better...just seeing what others have done...Thanks!
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| 05041993 (208hp) | I was getting a very strong vibration in the front end when I was on the OEM rotors and pads. When it was time for a change, I opted for Akebono rotors and pads and more vibration. But the damn brake dust is back...
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| paula (310hp) | Quote: Originally posted by BigKutta I was getting a very strong vibration in the front end when I was on the OEM rotors and pads. When it was time for a change, I opted for Akebono rotors and pads and more vibration. But the damn brake dust is back... Do you change your sensors after each brake pad replacement ?
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| mumtaz (712hp) | Quote: Posted by jonobro Do you change your sensors after each brake pad replacement? I always do this. sensors are cheap... new pads = new sensors...
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| iamtheking (748hp) | Quote: Posted by xxpanipuri Quote: Posted by jonobro Do you change your sensors after each brake pad replacement? I always do this. the sensors are cheap... new pads = new sensors... what tools do you use to make the job easier ?
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| cameron11 (707hp) | Quote: Posted by jonobro Do you change your sensors after each brake pad replacement? Yes, I believe it. I don't change them myself, I have it done by a mechanic
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| rrmadore (886hp) | Quote: Posted by xxpanipuri I always do this. sensors are cheap... new pads = new sensors... Useless IMO if the sensor isn't damaged don't replace it even if it only costs a single penny.
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| 050890 (592hp) | I opted for OEM pads that came with the sensor from the local auto parts store. The rotors were actually good enough to be rebuilt, just like that. It didn't take too long: https://f10.5post.com/forums/showpos...&postcount=244 Quote: Originally posted by jonobro, what tools do you use to make the job easier? You will need a torque wrench, a regular wrench with a variety of sockets, brake cleaner, a screwdriver, a hammer and jacks..
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| cassius1 (322hp) | Quote: Posted by EL Jeffe 5 IMO useless if the sensor is not damaged, don't replace it even if it only costs a single cent. yes but for a $12 part...when you already remove it during the brake job (whether you or your mechanic does it) it's cheap insurance
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| 4649 (818hp) | Quote: Originally posted by xxpanipuri yes, but for a $12 part... when you're already removing it during the brake job (whether you or your mechanic does it) it's cheap insurance. It depends on how you see it, in which case you need to replace it. all your bolts tighten everything to spec. Flush out the fluid and purchase EOM pads and rotors. over my life all the brake work I have done on many different cars and motorcycles. It's common sense, don't overtighten or just squeeze with your fingers. I can tell you that I have never used a torque wrench, EOM pads or rotors. I replaced one of the sensors in 2005 on my 2002 323i, it was damaged. thank you God bless you
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| beckham07 (152hp) | I used Zimmerman Rotors Coat-Z and OEM pads for the front. I had to replace the front rotors because they had too many grooves, but doing it at 100k from the original is just awesome. I like it so far. I replaced the sensor even though it was in very good condition. I used OEM pads for the rear but left the stock rotors as they were in great shape at 60k. I replaced the sensor even though it was in very good condition. I will use the Zimmerman, Coat-Z rotors when it comes time to replace the rotors on the next brake job, at around 120,000 miles..
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| 7355608 (977hp) | If you didn't get the brake pad warning...then the sensor is still intact. Yes, you can change it, but if you change your brake pads BEFORE the warning appears... then you would be throwing away a perfectly intact brake pad sensor that can still be used. And if you reused it because you replaced your brake pads before getting the warning... there will be enough material on the new brake pads for thousands more miles before the pad becomes sufficiently fine to start to wear down to where the sensor would make contact and wear to trigger the warning. Just a thought.
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| gfdkjdf (574hp) | Quote: Originally posted by Qsilver7 If you didn't get the warning on the brake pads...then the sensor is still intact. Yes, you can change it, but if you change your brake pads BEFORE the warning appears... then you would be throwing away a perfectly intact brake pad sensor that can still be used. And if you reused it because you replaced your brake pads before getting the warning... there will be enough material on the new brake pads for thousands more miles before the pad becomes sufficiently fine to start to wear down to the sensor. would come into contact and wear out to trigger the warning. Just a thought. I had about 2k before the sensor got corrupted and had to be replaced on my old pads, but I agree, if you get there before that happens you're good. Why waste money??
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| 10051990 (503hp) | Get your brakes from FCP Euro https://www.fcpeuro.com. They have a LIFETIME replacement on everything they sell, even wear and tear. They have OEM and Zimmerman brakes.
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| chiken (723hp) | Quote: Originally posted by Sunnyc123abc Get your brakes from FCP Euro https://www.fcpeuro.com. They have a LIFETIME replacement on everything they sell, even wear and tear. They have OEM and Zimmerman brakes. Think it's too good to be true that they have a lifetime warranty on the brakes? I wonder if anyone took advantage of it?...
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| 221108 (923hp) | It seems too good to be true, but it's true haha. https://www.fcpeuro.com/page/lifetime-guarantee
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| dalila (208hp) | I can attest that it is legit. I have used it and even apply it to things you don't like. Very good company
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| misiu (478hp) | I also studied the FCP return policy. They will even take back used oil and filter if you purchased it from them. They have a video on how to package it for shipping. What I don't know is how much it would cost to return the oil and filter. This can waste time
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| june2005 (527hp) | As for the bushings, I used Akebono on a previous BMW (2006 325i) and recently changed to Akebono on my current f10. Previously I noticed a lot less dust and they seemed like decent pads for busy city driving. Time will tell with the change to the current vehicle. I have never replaced the wear sensor either, I have always reused the old ones if they are not damaged..
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| matias123 (872hp) | Quote: Originally Posted by xxpanipuri Does anyone want to share your experience on replacing your OEM rotors/pads...have you gone to the aftermarket? stuck with OEM? Why did you go into the secondary market? strictly the cost? performance? My rear pads need to be replaced and I'm trying to figure out the best route to take. my main concern is performance, which includes not only braking performance, but also NO chatter/squealing when braking...I'm not the car, so I don't need something high end. .. just something as good as OEM if not a bit better... just seeing what others have done... Thanks! Be aware that modern BMW vehicles are equipped with very grippy brake pads. The initial bite they offer is superb. Press the brake a little and they seize with immediacy and authority. Most aftermarket pads struggle to retain all the initial bite of OEM BMW pads. Aftermarket pads can offer: Less dust Linear feel Less discoloration Longer pad life Increased rotor life But be wary of any aftermarket pad that says it has an initial bite equal to that OEM pads. Simply DON'T do it. This includes some of the popular pads from HAwk, Ebc, Powerstop, Stoptech, etc. The Textar ePads don't bite as well either. Some people don't like the "catchy" feel of OEM pads. Replacement pads will alleviate this quite effectively. But if you enjoy traditional BMW, ultra-responsive pedal feel and response, you'll be better served by OEM pads. Also note that BMW pads on one axle and aftermarket pads on the other (front/rear) will also change the bias of your brakes. And this bias will vary again as the temperature of the buffers changes. Again, some may not notice it, but it's there. Your profile says you have a 550i... To get OEM BMW performance, get OEM pads. If you want an upgraded pad, you can order M5 rear brake pads for a little more bite and fade resistance, but with more dust. The M5 rear pads fit directly into the rear of the 550i. No other parts are needed. Here, remember that M5 front pads do not fit (without other parts), so you will have stock fronts and M5 rears. This will increase the rear bias a bit. I mention bias because the DSC, ELSD, Traction Control and Corner Brake Control systems "expect" and are calibrated to a set of stock characteristics. Changing the pads slightly affects these systems. I thought I could live with aftermarket pads to get less brake dust. But the reduction in pedal response and initial bite muffled the brakes to an un-BMW-like state, in my opinion. Now I use stock pads, but would like to have an aftermarket pad with an OEM bite with the benefits of a high performance pad. One more thing, if the replacement pad you are looking for is a ceramic pad, it will almost certainly have a quieter feel and braking response than the original parts. I hope this information helps you select a good pad for your particular needs.
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| 210887 (952hp) | I installed the Brembo OEM equivalent (rotors and pads). Same BMW feel for the pedal and braking performance.
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| sunshine0 (781hp) | I ended up sticking to the OEM pads/rotors for my rear brakes... (the fronts are still good) I used aftermarket pads in my last BMW and always had minimal brake dust but increased noise and less initial bite...thanks for everyone's input.
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| windows2000 (486hp) | 2014 550is N63TU CPO, < 35,000 milles. Toujours sous garantie complète! Il ya quelques mois, je quittais une fête tard dans la nuit et ma voiture ne fonctionnait pas correctly. Le ralenti était extremely difficile, mon tableau de bord s'est alumuné avec severales voyant d'avértisement. Éteignez-le, attendez quelques minutes et redémarrez-le... même chose. J'ai appelé Triple A et j'ai attendu... et attendu... et attendu encore. Après environ une heure, j'en ai eu marre d'attendre et j'ai essayé de redémarrer. Tout fonctionnait bien, mais tous les voyants étaiten toujours allumens. J'étais à seulement 3 kilometers d'un concessionnaire, alors je l'ai conduit là-bas et je l'ai laissez toute la nuit. Ils ont replacét la pumpe à essence haute pression côté conductore. Cela a très bien fonctionné... mais... Depuis lors, j'ai un bruit intermittent de tic-tac/gazouillis/bourdonnement. It all depends on the RMP. Au ralenti, c'est un son aigu et audible de tic-tac. Au fur et à mesure que le moteur démarre, le tic-tac s'accélère jusqu'à ce qu'il s'agisse plus d'un cri/bourdonnement que d'un gazouillis. Si vous releasez le pied de l'accélérateur, le bruit s'arrête jusqu'à ce que la voiture revienne au ralenti lorsqu'elle redémarre. En gros, chaque fois qu'il est sous tension, le bruit est là. La fréquence de base du bruit lui-même est d'environ 5 kHz (voir image à la fin) et n'est pas affécate par les RPM. But the engine speed is directly proportional to the porte d'amplitude du bruit. (les tics s'accélerent jusqu'à ce que ce soit un bourdonnement...) Je l'ai ramené au revendeur et ils l'ont gardé pendant 2 jours, puis ont dit qu'ils ne l'entendaient pas. Je pouvais dire qu'ils ne voulaient pas traiter de plainte concernant le bruit, alors je l'ai rapporté au revendeur où je l'ai acheté. Au début, ils ont dit qu'ils ne l'entendaient pas non plus. Alors je l'ai conduit avec le contreaître d'atelier. Il l'a entendu, mais a dit que c'était « normal ». Je n'étais pas d'accord, car il ne l'avait pas fait avant que le problème ne survienne (je n'aurais pas acheté la voiture si elle faisait ce bruit!). De plus, j'ai roulé dans plusieurs modèles 550 récentes et aucun d'entre eux ne le fait non plus. Ils m'ont fait le laisser chez le concessionnaire pour qu'un "ingénieur" BWM l'inspecte. Ils l'ont eu pendant quelques jours, puis m'ont appelé et m'ont dit qu'il était prêt. Je suis allé le chercher en espérant qu'il avait été réparé, mais on m'a dit que l'ingénieur avait également déterminé qu'il s'agitait d'un bruit de fonctionnement normal et ils ont refusé de faire quoi que ce soit de plus. I was furious and I made an appeal. J'ai fait le tour des relations clients BMW pendant environ une semaine. Le responsable du service du concessionnaire les a convincié de venir verveir à nouveau, cette fois en ma présence. L'ingénieur m'a rencontre chez le concessionnaire il ya 2 semaines. I have a training in audio engineering, I donc explain the noise, dessiné quelques graphiques pour explicar comment il sonnait (frequency, forme d'onde/harmoniques, enveloppe volume/temps, etc.) et lui ai même montré un graphique d'analyseur de fréquence audio où vous pouvez voyez clairement le pic à la fréquence gênante. (Voir photo - les lignes horizontales sont espacées de 10 dB.) Nous l'avons conduit pendant un moment et il a d'abord dit qu'il navait rien entendu. Puis, après que je l'ai aidé à l'entendre en imitant le bruit, il a finalement reconnu l'avoir entendu, mais a dit qu'il pensait que c'était le bruit de la nouvelle pompe à carburant et que c' it was normal Mais il a proposé de le remplacer à nouveau (et l'autre côté ainsi qu'il ya un bulletin de service dessus) en guise de geste de « bonne volonté ». Je l'ai récupéré la semaine dernière. Même problème, mais en un peu pire... Le son est vraiment gênant. The whole thing doesn't seem mechanical to me because the base frequency is constant and resembles a sinusoid. Cela sonne électrique, comme une.
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| icecream5 (963hp) | I love customers who can accurately describe a noise that they need inspected, it's a shame the dealership can't use the tools you provided them! The first thing I would check is the turbocharger compressor wheels for blows. If they had replaced a HPFP, surely they had removed the inlet pipes and debris could have gotten in, damaging an aileron. The noises produced vary but I have seen the cause of a noise similar to the one you describe. The HPFP is driven by a cam lobe, and the lobes are triplicated on the camshaft every 60 degrees. That is, for each complete revolution, the cam actuates the HPFP piston 3 times. RPM/2*3 should give you the frequency of a noise related to HPFP actuation.
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| diamond14 (245hp) | Is it like a very annoying high pitched whine? I had the same noise a few months ago, no one knew what it was. Many suspected a bad turbo, but I had no drivability issues or warning lights. Although I didn't really hear it inside, it was quite audible from the driver's side front intake (my filters are behind the kidneys). Turns out it was a bad PCV valve that was either damaged or clogged. Has been replaced and no noise since. EDIT: Just realized you also said it gets noisier while driving. This was not the case for me. I would also recommend having the turbo wheel inspected. Good luck.
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| horny123 (305hp) | Quote: Originally posted by TheBlackGT Is it like a very annoying high pitched whine? I had the same noise a few months ago, no one knew what it was. Many suspected a bad turbo, but I had no drivability issues or warning lights. Although I didn't really hear it inside, it was quite audible from the driver's side front intake (my filters are behind the kidneys). Turns out it was a bad PCV valve that was either damaged or clogged. Was replaced and no noise since. EDIT: Just realized you also said it gets noisier while driving. This was not the case for me. I would also recommend having the turbo wheel inspected. Good luck. Did the high pitched whine sound like this when you had a bad PCV? (Listen for the whine once the engine reaches above 5,000 rpm in each gear.)
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| monkies (821hp) | Thanks guys. The noise gets a little louder as the engine starts. The sound is not wine or a scream like in the example above. It's a high-pitched ringing sound at about 5-6 per second at idle and it gets faster as the engine RPM increases. Turns into more of a high-pitched buzz (5kHz) than a scream. I'm going to try having the dealer inspect the turbocharger wheels, but like I said they say they won't do anything else at this time unless something fails... ultimately, they refuse to understand. what is really the cause? I'm going to make a high resolution recording of the noise and post it here later this week.
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| 789520 (898hp) | Can you have a video of the sound?
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| labelle (930hp) | I will shoot a video with improved sound this weekend and post it here. Last night when I got home, I noticed that in sport mode, at 2100 rpm, the sound became much louder. It almost becomes a hissing sound. I'm pretty sure it's a turbo!
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| 04051989 (933hp) | Quote: Originally posted by XXXEsq I'm going to shoot a video with improved sound this weekend and post it here. Last night when I got home, I noticed that in sport mode, at 2100 rpm, the sound became much louder. It almost becomes a hissing sound. I'm pretty sure it's a turbo! like a whirring sound? or does it look like an Eaton/Posi blower?
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| crimson (961hp) | I have the same problem with mine hahaha, I just got it from the dealer for a failed HPFP that was replaced and I'm dealing with this sound now. I'm calling them tomorrow to see what can be done. This car, I think it's time to get rid of it once this problem is solved..
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| 123pass (787hp) | 2014 550is N63TU CPO, < 35,000 milles. Toujours sous garantie complète! Il ya quelques mois, je quittais une fête tard dans la nuit et ma voiture ne fonctionnait pas correctly. Le ralenti était extremely difficile, mon tableau de bord s'est alumuné avec severales voyant d'avértisement. Éteignez-le, attendez quelques minutes et redémarrez-le... même chose. J'ai appelé Triple A et j'ai attendu... et attendu... et attendu encore. Après environ une heure, j'en ai eu marre d'attendre et j'ai essayé de redémarrer. Tout fonctionnait bien, mais tous les voyants étaiten toujours allumens. J'étais à seulement 3 kilometers d'un concessionnaire, alors je l'ai conduit là-bas et je l'ai laissez toute la nuit. Ils ont replacét la pumpe à essence haute pression côté conductore. Cela a très bien fonctionné... mais... Depuis lors, j'ai un bruit intermittent de tic-tac/gazouillis/bourdonnement. It all depends on the RMP. Au ralenti, c'est un son aigu et audible de tic-tac. Au fur et à mesure que le moteur démarre, le tic-tac s'accélère jusqu'à ce qu'il s'agisse plus d'un cri/bourdonnement que d'un gazouillis. Si vous releasez le pied de l'accélérateur, le bruit s'arrête jusqu'à ce que la voiture revienne au ralenti lorsqu'elle redémarre. En gros, chaque fois qu'il est sous tension, le bruit est là. La fréquence de base du bruit lui-même est d'environ 5 kHz (voir image à la fin) et n'est pas affécate par les RPM. But the engine speed is directly proportional to the porte d'amplitude du bruit. (les tics s'accélérent jusqu'à ce que ce soit un bourdonnement...) Je l'ai ramené au revendeur et ils l'ont gardé pendant 2 jours, puis ont dit qu'ils ne l'entendaient pas. Je pouvais dire qu'ils ne voulaient pas traiter de plainte concernant le bruit, alors je l'ai rapporté au revendeur où je l'ai acheté. Au début, ils ont dit qu'ils ne l'entendaient pas non plus. Alors je l'ai conduit avec le contreaître d'atelier. Il l'a entendu, mais a dit que c'était « normal ». Je n'étais pas d'accord, car il ne l'avait pas fait avant que le problème ne survienne (je n'aurais pas acheté la voiture si elle faisait ce bruit!). De plus, j'ai roulé dans plusieurs modèles 550 récentes et aucun d'entre eux ne le fait non plus. Ils m'ont fait le laisser chez le concessionnaire pour qu'un "ingénieur" BWM l'inspecte. Ils l'ont eu pendant quelques jours, puis m'ont appelé et m'ont dit qu'il était prêt. Je suis allé le chercher en espérant qu'il avait été réparé, mais on m'a dit que l'ingénieur avait également déterminé qu'il s'agitait d'un bruit de fonctionnement normal et ils ont refusé de faire quoi que ce soit de plus. I was furious and I made an appeal. J'ai fait le tour des relations clients BMW pendant environ une semaine. Le responsable du service du concessionnaire les a convincié de venir verveir à nouveau, cette fois en ma présence. L'ingénieur m'a rencontre chez le concessionnaire il ya 2 semaines. I have a training in audio engineering, I donc explain the noise, dessiné quelques graphiques pour explicar comment il sonnait (frequence, forme d'onde/harmoniques, enveloppe volume/temps, etc.) et lui ai même montré un graphique d'analyseur de fréquence audio où vous pouvez voyez clairement le pic à la fréquence gênante. (Voir photo - les lignes horizontales sont espacées de 10 dB.) Nous l'avons conduit pendant un moment et il a d'abord dit qu'il navait rien entendu. Puis, après que je l'ai aidé à l'entendre en imitant le bruit, il a finalement reconnu l'avoir entendu, mais a dit qu'il pensait que c'était le bruit de la nouvelle pompe à carburant et que c' it was normal Mais il a proposé de le remplacer à nouveau (et l'autre côté ainsi qu'il ya un bulletin de service dessus) en guise de geste de « bonne volonté ». Je l'ai récupéré la semaine dernière. Même problème, mais en un peu pire... Le son est vraiment gênant. The whole thing doesn't seem mechanical to me because the base frequency is constant and resembles a sinusoid. Cela sonne électrique, comme une.
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| sk8erdude (918hp) | I love customers who can accurately describe a noise that they need inspected, it's a shame the dealership can't use the tools you provided them! The first thing I would check is the turbocharger compressor wheels for blows. If they had replaced a HPFP, surely they had removed the inlet pipes and debris could have gotten in, damaging an aileron. The noises produced vary but I have seen the cause of a noise similar to the one you describe. The HPFP is driven by a cam lobe, and the lobes are triplicated on the camshaft every 60 degrees. That is, for each complete revolution, the cam actuates the HPFP piston 3 times. RPM/2*3 should give you the frequency of a noise related to HPFP actuation.
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| bloodymary (490hp) | Is it like a very annoying high pitched whine? I had the same noise a few months ago, no one knew what it was. Many suspected a bad turbo, but I had no drivability issues or warning lights. Although I didn't really hear it inside, it was quite audible from the driver's side front intake (my filters are behind the kidneys). Turns out it was a bad PCV valve that was either damaged or clogged. Has been replaced and no noise since. EDIT: Just realized you also said it gets noisier while driving. This was not the case for me. I would also recommend having the turbo wheel inspected. Good luck.
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| elicit (517hp) | Quote: Originally posted by TheBlackGT Is it like a very annoying high pitched whine? I had the same noise a few months ago, no one knew what it was. Many suspected a bad turbo, but I had no drivability issues or warning lights. Although I didn't really hear it inside, it was quite audible from the driver's side front intake (my filters are behind the kidneys). Turns out it was a bad PCV valve that was either damaged or clogged. Has been replaced and no noise since. EDIT: Just realized you also said it gets noisier while driving. This was not the case for me. I would also recommend having the turbo wheel inspected. Good luck. Did the high pitched whine sound like this when you had a bad PCV? (Listen for the whine once the engine reaches above 5,000 rpm in each gear.)
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| angel9 (185hp) | Thanks guys. The noise gets a little louder as the engine starts. The sound is not wine or a scream like in the example above. It's a high-pitched ringing sound at about 5-6 per second at idle and it gets faster as the engine RPM increases. Turns into more of a high-pitched buzz (5kHz) than a scream. I'm going to try having the dealer inspect the turbocharger wheels, but like I said they say they won't do anything else at this time unless something fails... ultimately, they refuse to understand. what is really the cause? I'm going to make a high resolution recording of the noise and post it here later this week.
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| kiki101 (650hp) | Can you have a video of the sound?
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| cris123 (367hp) | I will shoot a video with improved sound this weekend and post it here. Last night when I got home, I noticed that in sport mode, at 2100 rpm, the sound became much louder. It almost becomes a hissing sound. I'm pretty sure it's a turbo!
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| 191983 (660hp) | Quote: Originally posted by XXXEsq I'm going to shoot a video with improved sound this weekend and post it here. Last night when I got home, I noticed that in sport mode, at 2100 rpm, the sound became much louder. It almost becomes a hissing sound. I'm pretty sure it's a turbo! like a whirring sound? or does it look like an Eaton/Posi blower?
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| nummer1 (178hp) | I have the same problem with mine hahaha, I just got it from the dealer for a failed HPFP that was replaced and I'm dealing with this sound now. I'm calling them tomorrow to see what can be done. This car, I think it's time to get rid of it once this problem is solved..
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| s5nake5 (278hp) | Last month, BMW replaced the fan after it stopped working completely. We are now on vacation in a very hot place and are experiencing some problems: the system seems to be working completely opposite to how it should be working. When the indoor temperature is above the set point, I only feel a slight breeze coming out of the air vents. When the indoor temperature is below the set point, the vents produce maximum airflow. I saw in the technical drawings of the ventilation unit that there are motors that regulate certain flaps of the ventilation unit. Perhaps one of these motors was also replaced while the flaps were in the wrong position? (motor can be mounted by forcing the flaps completely in the other direction before replacing) How do I resolve this issue? Is there an ISTA procedure necessary to return the flaps to the correct position (calibration)? I'm trying to figure out what's going on, what if I can fix this myself during my hot vacation? Thanks Steve
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| Aatish (636hp) | Last month, BMW replaced the fan after it stopped working completely. We are now on vacation in a very hot place and are experiencing some problems: the system seems to be working completely opposite to how it should be working. When the indoor temperature is above the set point, I only feel a slight breeze coming out of the air vents. When the indoor temperature is below the set point, the vents produce maximum airflow. I saw in the technical drawings of the ventilation unit that there are motors that regulate certain flaps of the ventilation unit. Perhaps one of these motors was also replaced while the flaps were in the wrong position? (motor can be mounted by forcing the flaps completely in the other direction before replacing) How do I resolve this issue? Is there an ISTA procedure necessary to return the flaps to the correct position (calibration)? I'm trying to figure out what's going on, what if I can fix this myself during my hot vacation? Thanks Steve
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| babygrl (709hp) | I have a 2013 F10 528i xDrive with auto start-stop. Recently my car refuses to start. I hear a loud click like I'm trying to move and nothing...it's like there's not enough power to the starter. At first I thought it was a problem with the battery as it was relatively old (I replaced it and no change), I then replaced the starter. (no change)..I replaced it, checked the voltage at the alternator power wire...I even checked the ground wire near the transmission and they all well checked... I even checked the fuses. One thing I haven't been able to check is the start relay. I looked at realoem.com and it says the starter relay should be around the passenger side fuse box, but I don't see it anywhere. I checked around the battery and didn't see it on the driver's side of the trunk. Has anyone seen or know where in the world the start relay is located for this car ? ???
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| whyme? (798hp) | I have a 2013 F10 528i xDrive with auto start-stop. Recently my car refuses to start. I hear a loud click like I'm trying to move and nothing...it's like there's not enough power to the starter. At first I thought it was a problem with the battery as it was relatively old (I replaced it and no change), I then replaced the starter. (no change)..I replaced it, checked the voltage at the alternator power wire...I even checked the ground wire near the transmission and they all well checked... I even checked the fuses. One thing I haven't been able to check is the start relay. I looked at realoem.com and it says the starter relay should be around the passenger side fuse box, but I don't see it anywhere. I checked around the battery and didn't see it on the driver's side of the trunk. Has anyone seen or know where in the world the start relay is located for this car ? ???
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| good4now (123hp) | So I had a brake wear sensor warning a while ago. I was finally able to check it and the cable had split in two, which explained the problem. I already had a new cable, so a simple solution to remove this one and replace it... Wrong! The plastic housing at the top end of the cable wouldn't budge and after a lot of gentle persuasion I pulled it hard and unfortunately the brown connector cable came out of the white socket it was connected to. Now I have heard of people bypassing the brake sensor by joining the brake wear cables onto the old wear cable, but my problem now is that the cables connected to the wear cable are loose. Would connecting the yellow and brown cables at the top connector do the same thing or are there any types of resistors etc. in the brake cable wear that I need to worry about? I'll try to take pictures if that doesn't make sense.!
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| 1molly (606hp) | So I had a brake wear sensor warning a while ago. I was finally able to check it and the cable had split in two, which explained the problem. I already had a new cable, so a simple solution to remove this one and replace it... Wrong! The plastic housing at the top end of the cable wouldn't budge and after a lot of gentle persuasion I pulled it hard and unfortunately the brown connector cable came out of the white socket it was connected to. Now I have heard of people bypassing the brake sensor by joining the brake wear cables onto the old wear cable, but my problem now is that the cables connected to the wear cable are loose. Would connecting the yellow and brown cables at the top connector do the same thing or are there any types of resistors etc. in the brake cable wear that I need to worry about? I'll try to take pictures if that doesn't make sense.!
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| 190593 (135hp) | Hi. For the first time, I know of discussions on this subject that I founded but without response. I bought black M5 kidney grilles but without NV plate. I want to upgrade it for NV, but how can I do that? I'm going to cut a plate out of an old grill and glue it with glue to the new one? Any solutions please? THANKS
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| gerlinda (552hp) | Progress so far?
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| peppy1 (355hp) | Guys, use the search, there is a lot of information on this retrofit BUT people buy the grills that have the Nivi option because it is a different part number. You try to convert it to where it would be cheaper to get the right part to begin with.
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| ravioli (627hp) | Hi. For the first time, I know of discussions on this subject that I founded but without response. I bought black M5 kidney grilles but without NV plate. I want to upgrade it for NV, but how can I do that? I'm going to cut a plate out of an old grill and glue it with glue to the new one? Any solutions please? THANKS
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| patito (954hp) | Progress so far?
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| iloveamber (569hp) | Guys, use the search, there is a lot of information on this retrofit BUT people buy the grills that have the Nivi option because it is a different part number. You try to convert it to where it would be cheaper to get the right part to begin with.
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| daniel1994 (641hp) | I'm curious: is anyone aware of different OEM specs used in different parts of the world? For example, over the years I had become accustomed to the bulky brake dust of German cars. My F10 has almost none - straight from the factory. The rears expired within the dealer's service/warranty period and were replaced - same thing. The change was dramatic compared to my experience with the E46, E39, E90 and Porsche. I also feel like the initial bite of my F10 isn't as good as previous cars, but I'm using factory parts. Just curious if they do different things in different regions. I recently discovered that Toyota makes...
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| 180282 (934hp) | I installed them myself in January 2017 as a temporary replacement, but 2 years and 18-22,000 miles later, I love them. Better than the OEM I had in my opinion. Time to replace the pads now and I'll probably go with hawks. The pads that came with them were okay. https://www.ebay.com/itm/Front-eLine...sbD:rk:19:pf:0
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| 101983 (932hp) | it's for a 535. Not one 550
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| 198523 (68hp) | Quote: Originally posted by xxpanipuri I ended up sticking with the OEM pads/rotors for my rear brakes... (the fronts are still good) I used aftermarket pads in my last BMW and I have always had minimal brake dust but increased noise and less initial bite... thanks for everyone's input. I am satisfied with the manufacturers because there is no brake dust. However, since my foreheads have warped and my Indy uses Akebono, I chose them. No more warping but the damn brake dust is back!!
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| sunshine19 (377hp) | Just had R1 Concepts Carbon Geomet drilled and slotted rotors and Optimum OEp pads, it was a great price and looks better than stock to me, more confidence inspiring.
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| baubau (63hp) | Quote: Originally posted by JDMSteven Just had R1 Concepts Carbon Geomet drilled and slotted rotors and Optimum OEp pads, it was a great price and looks better than stock to me, more confidence inspiring. I think I have the same ones, I like them.
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| 040408 (566hp) | Quote: Originally posted by thakid22 Be aware that modern BMW vehicles are equipped with very grippy brake pads. The initial bite they offer is superb. Press the brake a little and they seize with immediacy and authority. Most aftermarket pads struggle to retain all the initial bite of OEM BMW pads. Aftermarket pads can offer: Less dust Linear feel Less discoloration Longer pad life Increased rotor life But be wary of any aftermarket pad that says it has an initial bite equal to that OEM pads. Simply DON'T do it. This includes some of the popular pads from HAwk, Ebc, Powerstop, Stoptech, etc. The Textar ePads don't bite as well either. Some people don't like the "catchy" feel of OEM pads. Replacement pads will alleviate this quite effectively. But if you enjoy traditional BMW, ultra-responsive pedal feel and response, you'll be better served by OEM pads. Also note that BMW pads on one axle and aftermarket pads on the other (front/rear) will also change the bias of your brakes. And this bias will vary again as the temperature of the buffers changes. Again, some may not notice it, but it's there. Your profile says you have a 550i... To get OEM BMW performance, get OEM pads. If you want an upgraded pad, you can order M5 rear brake pads for a little more bite and fade resistance, but with more dust. The M5 rear pads fit directly into the rear of the 550i. No other parts are needed. Here, remember that M5 front pads do not fit (without other parts), so you will have stock fronts and M5 rears. This will increase the rear bias a bit. I mention bias because the DSC, ELSD, Traction Control and Corner Brake Control systems "expect" and are calibrated to a set of stock characteristics. Changing the pads slightly affects these systems. I thought I could live with aftermarket pads to get less brake dust. But the reduction in pedal response and initial bite muffled the brakes to an un-BMW-like state, in my opinion. Now I use stock pads, but would like to have an aftermarket pad with an OEM bite with the benefits of a high performance pad. One more thing, if the replacement pad you are looking for is a ceramic pad, it will almost certainly have a quieter feel and braking response than the original parts. I hope this information helps you select a good pad for your particular needs. You're kind of stating the obvious. The pads you listed are harder pads, so less dust, so less initial bite. It is common knowledge. I hated the brake dust in our Mini Cooper S and switched to Hawk pads and aftermarket rotors (can't remember what they were now), secondary car needed new brakes. Yes, I lost the initial bite and had to adjust my braking right after the brake job, but now, 5 years later, I can't tell how the car braked. The wheels stay clean for a long time and without regrets. Now on the 535, I'm very surprised at how little brake dust this car has. I would have no problem replacing the pads with OEMs..... According to i-drive it will need front brakes in 2,000 miles which will be covered under its warranty)
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| thunder23 (739hp) | The front rotors on my 14 535 were warped over 10,000 km. High-speed braking would cause the steering wheel to move. My dealer wouldn't make it a warranty issue and even if I had the maintenance plan, they were only half worn so no dice. So I broke down last week and had a local indy replace them. He highly recommended the OEM parts, even though he installed everything I wanted, so I went with the OEM parts. I'm glad I did because they are excellent. High-speed braking is now silky smooth and the bite is excellent and easy to modulate. Plus, the OEMs have never given me any dust. My 2c
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| Hellsing (177hp) | What I noticed is that the stock BMW rotors appear to be in two pieces. The small circles around the hat area appear to show that multiple pieces of metal are used. If they are different types of metals, I don't know. I have seen part descriptions online calling the two piece option authentic. Although I'm not an expert in high performance braking, I know that this type of mounting generally provides some thermal insulation between the discs. This reduces the heat entering the wheel bearings and changes the way the hottest parts can expand and contract without being bonded to the wheel cap and bolts. Anyway, for decades I've been a stock brake guy. Due to the ridiculous prices I would not go to the dealer to get parts. But I would get Brembo, Balo or Zimmerman rotors matched to Textar, Jurid or Pagid pads. All of these are supposed to be OES (Original Equipment Suppliers) and what comes in the dealer box would be part of it for 3-10 times the price. In all the photos I've seen depicting regular OES brake rotors, I don't see any evidence of circles on the hat area, which means the construction may be significantly different. My F10 only needed rear brakes and it happened during the extended service interval so the dealer did it. I have never held an original BMW rotor in my hands to check whether the construction visible from the outside of the hat area actually had any meaning inside. Does anyone have any concrete information? I've also had some shaking in the front for a while that the dealer wouldn't treat as warranty/service and even though it's only half worn I'm tempted to do front brakes to eliminate the vibration ( hoping it's not a hub/bearing problem). this should have been repaired under warranty). I wish BMW had designed the 5 with the braking feel of the 3. The 5s have ALWAYS had less responsive, long pedal, unsporty brakes compared to the 3 and it's not a complex issue. That's design. Other than that, I'm happy with the stopping power and factory parts profile. I've commented before how dust free the F10 pads used by BMW are compared to all the other German cars I've had, so I'm happy with that as well. I'm just wondering if the stock discs/rotors are actually different than the OEM ones, or if there is a particular OEM that has accurately reproduced the same build. If factory is two piece and all OEM is one, I'll go with factory rotors..
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| adamek (252hp) | So - a note I found on ECS regarding the rotors: Quote: HELLA Pagid high carbon brake rotors are manufactured to exceed original equipment specifications to be superior to most OE style and performance rotors on the market. High carbon content means a denser rotor, for longer life with less tendency to warp, as well as better heat transfer for a cooler braking system, which is essential for eliminating brake fade (and quiet braking operation). These rotors feature a 2-piece fixed design with an aluminum hat for weight savings and improved cooling - just as BMW wanted. This is an OE disc from Pagid that appears to retain two pieces like the original. While the caps on the original BMW discs are aluminum, this is a notable construction difference compared to most OEM/OES options available. The Zimmermans' notes on the same site: Quote: Do you want to restore your braking power? Replace those old rotors. One piece construction. The one-piece options seem to cost about 50-60% of the price of the two-piece options. I will go in two pieces. It's not about the brand, it's about the specifications and construction of the product. I found a PDF from Pagid on 2-piece construction: https://www.hella-pagid.com/hellapag...hicle_3.17.pdf It has a section that says more or less what I was saying about heat stress problems. Quote: When subjected to a high level of thermal load, these brake rotors are susceptible to deviations such as thickness variations, axial misalignment and shielding. In these cases, two-piece brake rotors, also called composite brake rotors, offer clear advantages. Thanks to the various materials and special bonding processes used in their manufacture, these discs allow decoupling of the heat flow to the wheel hub.
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| angellinetong (395hp) | Coming from someone who has personally tried a number of aftermarket brake pads and done some research, let me first clarify a few things: OEM pads are not made by BMW. So if you buy pads in a box labeled BMW, you probably paid over $50 more than you needed. BMW uses manufacturers like Pagid and Textar to name a few as OE suppliers. Many people look to the aftermarket for the simple fact that brake dust, especially on earlier models, is pretty bad. As mentioned, the majority of these pads don't have the initial bite you'd get from the factory, but at least your wheels aren't black after a trip to the grocery store. After testing a number of different pads, I eventually came across the Textar ePad and I will say it's as close to the factory bite as I've felt with cold brakes. To top it all off, this pad also offers significantly less brake dust. Compared to a loaner I had just a year ago, the feeling was exactly the same and from my research BMW started using different compounds shortly after the F10 was introduced. With that in mind, if you're looking for a well-rounded brake pad and are willing to give up at least some initial bite on cold brakes, I'd check out the Textar ePad. This is the only pad I use now.
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| 23021979 (141hp) | Agree 100% with socale39 regarding the brake pads. Aside from the initial bite and dust, there seems to be little reason to spend huge sums of money on friction materials. Likewise for the rotors which are little more than a machined steel disc. It comes down to rotors with a coating that minimize rust or cheaper rotors without a coating. The stock rotors of a 5 series are a little different since they are constructed in two parts (steel disc and aluminum hub). However, replacement parts, even the original ones, appear to be one piece (all steel). Again, these are consumables that don't seem to matter if they come from a BMW dealership or Rock Auto. Higher end rotors are also available with slots and/or countersunk holes, but it is unlikely that the average driver will ever be able to tell the difference..
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| 18121989 (844hp) | Quote: Originally published by TEF Likewise for the rotors which are little more than a machined steel disc. It comes down to rotors with a coating that minimize rust or cheaper rotors without a coating. The stock rotors of a 5 series are a little different since they are constructed in two parts (steel disc and aluminum hub). However, replacement parts, even the original ones, appear to be one piece (all steel). I've posted a few articles above, with links to genuine BMW two-pieces and PAGID two-pieces. Yes, many traditional OEM brands (Zimmerman, Brembo, Balo) seem to be of one piece. Therefore, I won't go with those, as the two-piece construction is the right one. I/we have enough problems keeping the front brakes in good condition - no need to add more thermal distortion than necessary.
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| sheeba (726hp) | I was looking for the biggest rotor upgrade for my 550i. Using the 2015 Alpina B7 disc and pads (and caliper bracket). I was going to buy Zimmerman rotors from eEuropart for $116 each, but they show a one-piece rotor in the photo. The Ebay seller shows the same Zimmermann part number (2 for $197 shipped), but the photo shows 2 piece rotors. I communicated with both sellers and eEuroparts stated that Zimmermann sells 1 and 2 piece rotors in this application. The one piece rotor part number ended in -20 and the 2 piece part number ended in -32 (different left and right side rotors). So you can get Zimmermann 2pcs if you have the right part number (just hard to find in the US.) I found ATE (OES) 2pcs rotors in this app for $177 each, or about $50 less each than OEM. I have used low cost Meyle rotors on my e46 330 and e90 335 with great success. I also like the akebono ceramic bushings for these cars. Reduce dust that was beige rather than black. Never worry about the initial bite. Just reheat them. It only takes two or three stops to leave my subdivision...
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| 357 (201hp) | Quote: Originally posted by Luky So you can get 2pcs Zimmermann if you have the right part number (just hard to find in the US.) I found ATE (OES) 2pcs rotors in this app for $177 each, or about $50 less each. than OEM. Excellent information to note! Plus, you need to dig deeper than the pictures, like you did..
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| lilypad1 (582hp) | I just viewed the 2016 550i Zimmerman catalog online. Ref. Zimmerman for 374 x 36 mm discs (German 550i brakes) one piece front left 150.2912.20 one piece front right 150.2913.20 two pieces front left 150.2912.32 two pieces front right 150.2913.32 Ref. Zimmerman for 348 x 36mm rotors (US 550i and 535i I believe) one piece front left 150.3478.20 one piece front right 150.3479.20 two pieces front left 150.3478.32 two pieces front right 150.3479.32 front left one piece drilled 150.3478. 52 right front one piece pierced 150.3479.52
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| 18031989 (617hp) | I think I'm going to need rotors in the front because the shaking gets worse when I apply the brakes. Who stocks split rotors for the 535i? I have searched for SKUs 150.3478.32 and 150.3479.32 but cannot find any online retailers that stock them..
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| ALPINAB12COUPE57 (652hp) | Quote: Originally posted by harris69 I think I'm going to need rotors in the front because the shaking gets worse when I apply the brakes. Who stocks split rotors for the 535i? I've searched for SKUs 150.3478.32 and 150.3479.32, but I can't find any online retailers that stock them. Yes, the FCP Euro guy responded that it showed the P/N but didn't show any availability. You'll probably have to call the stores that sell Zimmerman and see if they can order them. All the sites I saw showing them in stock were UK or EU..
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| notreal (963hp) | Quote: Originally posted by Luky Yes, the FCP Euro guy responded that he showed the P/N but didn't show any availability. You'll probably have to call the stores that sell Zimmerman and see if they can order them. All the sites I saw showing them in stock were UK or European. ECS Tuning stores Pagid...
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| paris2010 (613hp) | Quote: Originally posted by harris69 I think I'm going to need rotors in the front because the shaking gets worse when I apply the brakes. Who stocks split rotors for the 535i? I've searched for SKUs 150.3478.32 and 150.3479.32, but I can't find any online retailers that stock them. ECS has Pagid and BMW two-piece.
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| makarov (111hp) | Quote: Posted by Surly73 ECS has Pagid and BMW two-piece. At $149.99 each, do you think they are worth spending the extra money?
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| sausage (582hp) | Quote: Originally posted by harris69 At $149.99 each, do you think they're worth spending the extra money? My personal opinion? I've said in a few threads that when I make my F10 brakes I will absolutely stick to the two piece design. I'll see what OE brands are available to me when the time comes. If I ordered now (personally) I would probably receive the Pagids from ECS.
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| alexis22 (781hp) | I'm curious: is anyone aware of different OEM specs used in different parts of the world? For example, over the years I had become accustomed to the bulky brake dust of German cars. My F10 has almost none - straight from the factory. The rears expired within the dealer's service/warranty period and were replaced - same thing. The change was dramatic compared to my experience with the E46, E39, E90 and Porsche. I also feel like the initial bite of my F10 isn't as good as previous cars, but I'm using factory parts. Just curious if they do different things in different regions. I recently discovered that Toyota makes...
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| dolphin10 (165hp) | I installed them myself in January 2017 as a temporary replacement, but 2 years and 18-22,000 miles later, I love them. Better than the OEM I had in my opinion. Time to replace the pads now and I'll probably go with hawks. The pads that came with them were okay. https://www.ebay.com/itm/Front-eLine...sbD:rk:19:pf:0
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| zxcvbnm2 (675hp) | it's for a 535. Not one 550
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| 20101980 (33hp) | Quote: Originally posted by xxpanipuri I ended up sticking with the OEM pads/rotors for my rear brakes... (the fronts are still good) I used aftermarket pads in my last BMW and have still had minimal brake dust but increased noise and less initial bite... thanks for everyone's input. I am satisfied with the manufacturers because there is no brake dust. However, since my foreheads have warped and my Indy uses Akebono, I chose them. No more warping but the damn brake dust is back!!
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| 17021986 (729hp) | Just had R1 Concepts Carbon Geomet drilled and slotted rotors and Optimum OEp pads, it was a great price and looks better than stock to me, more confidence inspiring.
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| dud (926hp) | Quote: Originally posted by JDMSteven I just had R1 Concepts Carbon Geomet drilled and slotted rotors and Optimum OEp pads, it was a great price and looks better than stock to me, more confidence inspiring. I think I have the same ones, I like them.
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| 101189 (996hp) | Quote: Originally posted by thakid22 Be aware that modern BMW vehicles are equipped with very grippy brake pads. The initial bite they offer is superb. Press the brake a little and they seize with immediacy and authority. Most aftermarket pads struggle to retain all the initial bite of OEM BMW pads. Aftermarket pads can offer: Less dust Linear feel Less discoloration Longer pad life Increased rotor life But be wary of any aftermarket pad that says it has an initial bite equal to that OEM pads. Simply DON'T do it. This includes some of the popular pads from HAwk, Ebc, Powerstop, Stoptech, etc. The Textar ePads don't bite as well either. Some people don't like the "catchy" feel of OEM pads. Replacement pads will alleviate this quite effectively. But if you enjoy traditional BMW, ultra-responsive pedal feel and response, you'll be better served by OEM pads. Also note that BMW pads on one axle and aftermarket pads on the other (front/rear) will also change the bias of your brakes. And this bias will vary again as the temperature of the buffers changes. Again, some may not notice it, but it's there. Your profile says you have a 550i... To get OEM BMW performance, get OEM pads. If you want an upgraded pad, you can order M5 rear brake pads for a little more bite and fade resistance, but with more dust. The M5 rear pads fit directly into the rear of the 550i. No other parts are needed. Here, remember that M5 front pads do not fit (without other parts), so you will have stock fronts and M5 rears. This will increase the rear bias a bit. I mention bias because the DSC, ELSD, Traction Control and Corner Brake Control systems "expect" and are calibrated to a set of stock characteristics. Changing the pads slightly affects these systems. I thought I could live with aftermarket pads to get less brake dust. But the reduction in pedal response and initial bite muffled the brakes to an un-BMW-like state, in my opinion. Now I use stock pads, but would like to have an aftermarket pad with an OEM bite with the benefits of a high performance pad. One more thing, if the replacement pad you are looking for is a ceramic pad, it will almost certainly have a quieter feel and braking response than the original parts. I hope this information helps you select a good pad for your particular needs. You're kind of stating the obvious. The pads you listed are harder pads, so less dust, so less initial bite. It is common knowledge. I hated the brake dust in our Mini Cooper S and switched to Hawk pads and aftermarket rotors (can't remember what they were now), secondary car needed new brakes. Yes, I lost the initial bite and had to adjust my braking right after the brake job, but now, 5 years later, I can't tell how the car braked. The wheels stay clean for a long time and without regrets. Now on the 535, I'm very surprised at how little brake dust this car has. I would have no problem replacing the pads with OEMs..... According to i-drive it will need front brakes in 2,000 miles which will be covered under its warranty)
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| rockstar01 (716hp) | The front rotors on my 14 535 were warped over 10,000 km. High-speed braking would cause the steering wheel to move. My dealer wouldn't make it a warranty issue and even if I had the maintenance plan, they were only half worn so no dice. So I broke down last week and had a local indy replace them. He highly recommended the OEM parts, even though he installed everything I wanted, so I went with the OEM parts. I'm glad I did because they are excellent. High-speed braking is now silky smooth and the bite is excellent and easy to modulate. Plus, the OEMs have never given me any dust. My 2c
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| ed4 (586hp) | What I noticed is that the stock BMW rotors appear to be in two pieces. The small circles around the hat area appear to show that multiple pieces of metal are used. If they are different types of metals, I don't know. I have seen part descriptions online calling the two piece option authentic. Although I'm not an expert in high performance braking, I know that this type of mounting generally provides some thermal insulation between the discs. This reduces the heat entering the wheel bearings and changes the way the hottest parts can expand and contract without being bonded to the wheel cap and bolts. Anyway, for decades I've been a stock brake guy. Due to the ridiculous prices I would not go to the dealer to get parts. But I would get Brembo, Balo or Zimmerman rotors matched to Textar, Jurid or Pagid pads. All of these are supposed to be OES (Original Equipment Suppliers) and what comes in the dealer box would be part of it for 3-10 times the price. In all the photos I've seen depicting regular OES brake rotors, I don't see any evidence of circles on the hat area, which means the construction may be significantly different. My F10 only needed rear brakes and it happened during the extended service interval so the dealer did it. I have never held an original BMW rotor in my hands to check whether the construction visible from the outside of the hat area actually had any meaning inside. Does anyone have any concrete information? I've also had some shaking in the front for a while that the dealer wouldn't treat as warranty/service and even though it's only half worn I'm tempted to do front brakes to eliminate the vibration ( hoping it's not a hub/bearing problem). this should have been repaired under warranty). I wish BMW had designed the 5 with the braking feel of the 3. The 5s have ALWAYS had less responsive, long pedal, unsporty brakes compared to the 3 and it's not a complex issue. That's design. Other than that, I'm happy with the stopping power and factory parts profile. I've commented before how dust free the F10 pads used by BMW are compared to all the other German cars I've had, so I'm happy with that as well. I'm just wondering if the stock discs/rotors are actually different than the OEM ones, or if there is a particular OEM that has accurately reproduced the same build. If factory is two piece and all OEM is one, I'll go with factory rotors..
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| 080502 (487hp) | So - a note I found on ECS regarding the rotors: Quote: HELLA Pagid high carbon brake rotors are manufactured to exceed original equipment specifications to be superior to most OE style and performance rotors on the market. High carbon content means a denser rotor, for longer life with less tendency to warp, as well as better heat transfer for a cooler braking system, which is essential for eliminating brake fade (and quiet braking operation). These rotors feature a 2-piece fixed design with an aluminum hat for weight savings and improved cooling - just as BMW wanted. This is an OE disc from Pagid that appears to retain two pieces like the original. While the caps on the original BMW discs are aluminum, this is a notable construction difference compared to most OEM/OES options available. The Zimmermans' notes on the same site: Quote: Do you want to restore your braking power? Replace those old rotors. One piece construction. The one-piece options seem to cost about 50-60% of the price of the two-piece options. I will go in two pieces. It's not about the brand, it's about the specifications and construction of the product. I found a PDF from Pagid on 2-piece construction: https://www.hella-pagid.com/hellapag...hicle_3.17.pdf It has a section that says more or less what I was saying about heat stress problems. Quote: When subjected to a high level of thermal load, these brake rotors are susceptible to deviations such as thickness variations, axial misalignment and shielding. In these cases, two-piece brake rotors, also called composite brake rotors, offer clear advantages. Thanks to the various materials and special bonding processes used in their manufacture, these discs allow decoupling of the heat flow to the wheel hub.
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| my2boyz (78hp) | Coming from someone who has personally tried a number of aftermarket brake pads and done some research, let me first clarify a few things: OEM pads are not made by BMW. So if you buy pads in a box labeled BMW, you probably paid over $50 more than you needed. BMW uses manufacturers like Pagid and Textar to name a few as OE suppliers. Many people turn to the aftermarket for the simple fact that brake dust, especially on earlier models, is pretty bad. As mentioned, the majority of these pads don't have the initial bite you'd get from the factory, but at least your wheels aren't black after a trip to the grocery store. After testing a number of different pads, I eventually came across the Textar ePad and I will say it's as close to the factory bite as I've felt with cold brakes. To top it off, this pad also offers significantly less brake dust. Compared to a loaner I had just a year ago, the feeling was exactly the same and from my research BMW started using different compounds shortly after the F10 was introduced. With that in mind, if you're looking for a well-rounded brake pad and are willing to give up at least some initial bite on cold brakes, I'd check out the Textar ePad. This is the only pad I use now.
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| antaholics (221hp) | Agree 100% with socale39 regarding the brake pads. Aside from the initial bite and dust, there seems to be little reason to spend huge sums of money on friction materials. Likewise for the rotors which are little more than a machined steel disc. It comes down to rotors with a coating that minimize rust or cheaper rotors without a coating. The stock rotors of a 5 series are a little different since they are constructed in two parts (steel disc and aluminum hub). However, replacement parts, even the original ones, appear to be one piece (all steel). Again, these are consumables that don't seem to matter if they come from a BMW dealership or Rock Auto. Higher end rotors are also available with slots and/or countersunk holes, but it is unlikely that the average driver will ever be able to tell the difference..
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| leigha (350hp) | Quote: Originally published by TEF Likewise for the rotors which are little more than a machined steel disc. It comes down to rotors with a coating that minimize rust or cheaper rotors without a coating. The stock rotors of a 5 series are a little different since they are constructed in two parts (steel disc and aluminum hub). However, replacement parts, even the original ones, appear to be one piece (all steel). I've posted a few articles above, with links to genuine BMW two-pieces and PAGID two-pieces. Yes, many traditional OEM brands (Zimmerman, Brembo, Balo) seem to be of one piece. Therefore, I won't go with those, as the two-piece construction is the right one. I/we have enough problems keeping the front brakes in good condition - no need to add more thermal distortion than necessary.
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| donthate (717hp) | I was looking for the biggest rotor upgrade for my 550i. Using the 2015 Alpina B7 disc and pads (and caliper bracket). I was going to buy Zimmerman rotors from eEuropart for $116 each, but they show a one-piece rotor in the photo. The Ebay seller shows the same Zimmermann part number (2 for $197 shipped), but the photo shows 2 piece rotors. I communicated with both sellers and eEuroparts stated that Zimmermann sells 1 and 2 piece rotors in this application. The one piece rotor part number ended in -20 and the 2 piece part number ended in -32 (different left and right side rotors). So you can get Zimmermann 2pcs if you have the right part number (just hard to find in the US.) I found ATE (OES) 2pcs rotors in this app for $177 each, or about $50 less each than OEM. I have used low cost Meyle rotors on my e46 330 and e90 335 with great success. I also like the akebono ceramic bushings for these cars. Reduce dust that was beige rather than black. Never worry about the initial bite. Just reheat them. It only takes two or three stops to leave my subdivision...
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| rfkmrekznjh (266hp) | Quote: Originally posted by Luky So you can get 2pcs Zimmermann if you have the right part number (just hard to find in the US.) I found ATE (OES) 2pcs rotors in this app for $177 each, or about $50 less each. than OEM. Excellent information to note! Plus, you need to dig deeper than the pictures, like you did..
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| amorcito1 (494hp) | I just checked out the 2016 550i Zimmerman catalog online. Ref. Zimmerman for 374 x 36 mm discs (German 550i brakes) one piece front left 150.2912.20 one piece front right 150.2913.20 two pieces front left 150.2912.32 two pieces front right 150.2913.32 Ref. Zimmerman for 348 x 36mm rotors (US 550i and 535i I believe) one piece front left 150.3478.20 one piece front right 150.3479.20 two pieces front left 150.3478.32 two pieces front right 150.3479.32 front left one piece drilled 150.3478.52 front right a pierced piece 150.3479.52
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| omarion (548hp) | I think I'm going to need rotors in the front because the shaking gets worse when I apply the brakes. Who stocks split rotors for the 535i? I have searched for SKUs 150.3478.32 and 150.3479.32 but cannot find any online retailers that stock them..
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| azzurra (836hp) | Quote: Originally posted by harris69 I think I'm going to need rotors in the front because the shaking gets worse when I apply the brakes. Who stocks split rotors for the 535i? I've searched for SKUs 150.3478.32 and 150.3479.32, but I can't find any online retailers that stock them. Yes, the FCP Euro guy responded that it showed the P/N but didn't show any availability. You'll probably have to call the stores that sell Zimmerman and see if they can order them. All the sites I saw showing them in stock were UK or European..
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| m111111 (140hp) | Quote: Originally posted by Luky Yes, the FCP Euro guy responded that he showed the P/N but didn't show any availability. You'll probably have to call the stores that sell Zimmerman and see if they can order them. All the sites I saw showing them in stock were British or European. ECS Tuning stores Pagid...
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| orlando12 (108hp) | Quote: Originally posted by harris69 I think I'm going to need rotors in the front because the shaking gets worse when I apply the brakes. Who stocks split rotors for the 535i? I've searched for SKUs 150.3478.32 and 150.3479.32, but I can't find any online retailers that stock them. ECS has Pagid and BMW two-piece.
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| sierra5 (459hp) | Quote: Posted by Surly73 ECS has Pagid and BMW two-piece. At $149.99 each, do you think they are worth spending the extra money?
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| aviator1 (816hp) | Quote: Originally posted by harris69 At $149.99 each, do you think they're worth spending the extra money? My personal opinion? I've said in a few threads that when I make my F10 brakes I will absolutely stick to the two piece design. I'll see what OE brands are available to me when the time comes. If I ordered now (personally) I would probably receive the Pagids from ECS.
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| deepansum (364hp) | Hello, I have some damage to my driver's side mirror after reversing out of the garage. Will a new mirror cap fix this problem or do I need to replace the entire side mirror? I looked and can't find a metallic imperial blue one anywhere. I would appreciate some feedback on where I can get this product repaired or replaced inexpensively..
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| corine (987hp) | All you need to do is replace the ring (part around the mirror glass) and the damaged front lower black trim (#3 & #4 in the diagram). Should be under $100 for both pieces (new).
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| BMWBoss (372hp) | Hello, I have some damage to my driver's side mirror after reversing out of the garage. Will a new mirror cap fix this problem or do I need to replace the entire side mirror? I looked and can't find a metallic imperial blue one anywhere. I would appreciate some feedback on where I can get this product repaired or replaced inexpensively..
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| aminah (1hp) | All you need to do is replace the ring (part around the mirror glass) and the damaged front lower black trim (#3 & #4 in the diagram). Should be under $100 for both pieces (new).
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| green9 (757hp) | Hi everyone, I've had this problem on my n55 2011 for about 3/4 years already. Every once in a while, I would say 3 times a year, I start the car and while driving I feel like the engine isn't making enough power. If I step on the accelerator, it would trigger a transmission malfunction message, followed by the car misfiring and running quite rough. I turn the engine off, turn it back on and the car runs normally. To fix this I replaced: All coils All injectors Vacuum hoses HPFP plugs Valve cover and gasket Vanos solenoids Breather hose Maf sensor Camshaft position sensors. After other engine and suspension parts, I mean I've spent about $12,000 over the last 3 years trying to fix the problem. The car runs fine, but every now and then this problem appears. The codes are misfire on all cylinders plus p0171. Has anyone encountered this problem? I'm so tired of trying to drive the car without worrying that the engine will explode one day. Thank you for your help.
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| 110380 (359hp) | IMO, the best way to figure this out is to tune in while it's happening. I hope you can then refine this. As you know, throwing coins at problems is very expensive.!
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| 09061985 (494hp) | Quote: Originally posted by beegeezy IMO, the best way to understand this is to tune in while it's happening. I hope you can then refine this. As you know, throwing coins at problems is very expensive! I did it. I showed it to the mechanic and he didn't even have a clue what it could trigger. I guess I'll have to deal with the failures 3 times a year lol. Thank you for your contribution
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| 030992 (995hp) | Do you know this SIB? Have you checked your car's level I?
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| 014014 (39hp) | I would suggest getting the real BMW code with ISTA or another BMW compatible scanner.
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| bsiciliano (994hp) | Quote: Originally posted by TZ I suggest getting the real BMW code with ISTA or another BMW compatible scanner. All these codes are insta+
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| 06 (246hp) | Hi everyone, I've had this problem on my n55 2011 for about 3/4 years already. Every once in a while, I would say 3 times a year, I start the car and while driving I feel like the engine isn't making enough power. If I step on the accelerator, it would trigger a transmission malfunction message, followed by the car misfiring and running quite rough. I turn the engine off, turn it back on and the car runs normally. To fix this I replaced: All coils All injectors Vacuum hoses HPFP plugs Valve cover and gasket Vanos solenoids Breather hose Maf sensor Camshaft position sensors. After other engine and suspension parts, I mean I've spent about $12,000 over the last 3 years trying to fix the problem. The car runs fine, but every now and then this problem appears. The codes are misfire on all cylinders plus p0171. Has anyone encountered this problem? I'm so tired of trying to drive the car without worrying that the engine will explode one day. Thank you for your help.
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| parish (294hp) | IMO, the best way to figure this out is to tune in while it's happening. I hope you can then refine this. As you know, throwing coins at problems is very expensive.!
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| liberty7 (846hp) | Quote: Originally posted by beegeezy IMO, the best way to understand this is to tune in while it's happening. I hope you can then refine this. As you know, throwing coins at problems is very expensive! I did it. I showed it to the mechanic and he didn't even have a clue what it could trigger. I guess I'll have to deal with the failures 3 times a year lol. Thank you for your contribution
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| odz1w1rB9T (367hp) | Do you know this SIB? Have you checked your car's level I?
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| 789963 (646hp) | I would suggest getting the real BMW code with ISTA or another BMW compatible scanner.
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| Niko1414 (397hp) | Quote: Originally posted by TZ I suggest getting the real BMW code with ISTA or another BMW compatible scanner. All these codes are insta+
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| 26021982 (239hp) | Hi Guys, My dad was driving his F11 today and the dashboard/gauges, navigation and air conditioning were all turning off randomly. When this happened, the car was still running and able to drive, and the wipers would go to full speed (couldn't turn them down) and the climate would blow hot air. This happened several times during the trip. Has anyone ever had anything like this? I haven't had a chance to hook it up to ISTA yet, but any guidance on what this could potentially be would be appreciated? THANKS
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| michael99 (443hp) | IMHO the battery is the first suspect. The alternator and battery are in second position.
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| weissja (662hp) | Hi Guys, My dad was driving his F11 today and the dashboard/gauges, navigation and air conditioning were all turning off randomly. When this happened, the car was still running and able to drive, and the wipers would go to full speed (couldn't turn them down) and the climate would blow hot air. This happened several times during the trip. Has anyone ever had anything like this? I haven't had a chance to hook it up to ISTA yet, but any advice on what that could potentially be would be appreciated? THANKS
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| capitals (82hp) | IMHO the battery is the first suspect. The alternator and battery are in second position.
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