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| bellamia (35hp) | Can you add 4 inch tips to a f10 carbon diffuser without a muffler??
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| campeones (634hp) | Quote: Originally posted by Aqibsalam Can you fit 4 inch tips on an F10 carbon diffuser without a muffler? I use a Ninte diffuser and yes 4 tips work and will look really good in my opinion.
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| 000000b (523hp) | Quote: Originally posted by UAM951 Warranty issues due to an M5 diffuser? Lol No. Learn to understand. It's not difficult. Warranty issues arise from cutting or modifying parts of your car to match the M5 diffuser to the stock or aftermarket exhaust.
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| AWESOM3 (523hp) | Quote: Originally posted by wdimagineer I know the Tischer people personally as I bought cars from them before moving west. I mentioned to Jason that they should change the description. Physically it fits, but obviously the exhaust is positioned differently and that means it can't be bolted on directly. I guess my point is that if you pay for the parts, paint them, and then have an exhaust shop modify things, you're probably close to the cost of a CF part or other piece. There is also the risk of warranty problems. In my personal opinion, the diffuser is the only thing I don't like about the M5. I ended up painting my paint to give the car a contrast to my old 550 F10 with the M Sport package. However, I just bought a carbon diffuser from Seibon and can't wait to install it. Yes, I'm from Maryland and visited Tischer many times myself before traveling to Texas and then Washington. They do a good job and are usually good at getting you any BMW part if you can provide the part numbers normally. However, I agree that her entry is misleading and not fully representative, which is why I also posted what I found/encountered so that more people can know and be informed. As far as the pain and the primer go...it's really not much. The part sold for $188 and the primer/paint/assembly at the body shop in Portland cost about $350 total, including labor costs for BOTH the diffuser AND an OEM rear spoiler - the one included in the M Sport package should be (I think it is built into Euro). models, but perhaps wrong). The CF pieces I wish were so cheap...the cheapest I've ever seen was around $999 and the Vorsteiners are $1600+! Add in the cost of installation and/or painting if you want it painted in the body color you mentioned, and you're talking $2,000 for a rear diffuser! That's a lot! I would say almost ridiculous in my opinion. I've never heard of Seibon. I'm sure your car looks great. All I'm saying is that the options available sometimes limit what we can easily achieve for our F10 cars!
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| star12345 (827hp) | Quote: Originally posted by wdimagineer Quote: Originally posted by UAM951 Warranty issues due to an M5 diffuser? Lol No. Learn to understand. It's not difficult. Warranty issues arise from cutting or modifying parts of your car to match the M5 diffuser to the stock or aftermarket exhaust. No, I understood your point, I just decided to laugh it off.
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| 31011979 (456hp) | Quote: Originally posted by UAM951 Quote: Originally posted by wdimagineer Quote: Originally posted by UAM951 Warranty issues due to an M5 diffuser? Lol No. Learn to understand. It's not difficult. Warranty issues arise from cutting or modifying parts of your car to match the M5 diffuser to the stock or aftermarket exhaust. No, I understood your point, I just decided to laugh it off. Why?
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| trousers (518hp) | Quote: Originally written by mavoma You need the holder for the comfort opening sensors (contactless trunk opening). And the black plastic that the trailer hitch goes through. If I may ask, why is the trailer hitch required? Can't you already use the existing one on the car? I currently have a 535i Msport with PDC and comfort access. Thanks.
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| 001983 (170hp) | Push
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| asdf (170hp) | This is what you need http://f10.5post.com/forums/showthread.php?t=1110496
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| 1314159 (736hp) | And I have some remaining parts from my conversion http://f10.5post.com/forums/showthread.php?t=1110483
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| main (367hp) | Hello guys, quick question. I bought an SE F10. I bought an original Msport bumper. Installed, looks great, but there is a small gap on each side between the two headlights near the kidney grille. Is that normal? What did i do wrong??
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| Rickystallings84 (347hp) | Holy Thread Resurrection Batman!
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| bowwow4 (166hp) | Quote: Originally written by faz734 Hello guys, quick question. I bought an SE F10. I bought an original Msport bumper. Installed, looks great, however there is a small gap on each side between the two headlights near the kidney grille. Is that normal? What did i do wrong? If you need help starting a new thread, buddy!
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| stunna (921hp) | Oops, sorry. How do you start a thread??
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| orange88 (680hp) | Can you add 4 inch tips to a f10 carbon diffuser without a muffler??
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| torana (914hp) | Quote: Originally posted by Aqibsalam Can you fit 4 inch tips on an F10 carbon diffuser without a muffler? I use a Ninte diffuser and yes 4 tips work and will look really good in my opinion.
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| nicole33 (434hp) | Hello everyone, I have a 2015 F10 528i LCI with a factory i-level of f010-15-03-502. This is still my actual I-level and all ECUs have this I-level except the ASD which I recoded to F010-15-03-503 as I had changed a few FDL codes using Bimmercode and reset it wanted factory settings. I will be retrofitting the S688 Harman Kardon in my vehicle (it currently has basic/stereo audio). The speakers/tweeters/subwoofers are dated August 2013, but the amplifier is dated August 2019. The seller claims that all the hardware is from the same Doner car (2014 model F10) and may have been replaced at some point before, but who knows. The amplifier is a BE B219 / part number: 6815972. It has the ASD connection and should therefore be compatible with the ASD in my car. Now my question is, can the amplifier/ECU with a build date higher than the vehicle I level be coded for my car using ESYS? Or do I have to update the i-Level in my car first before installing newer ECUs? I'm new to coding with ESYS and so wanted to check with people who have experience coding with Esys. I tried searching online but couldn't find a definitive answer to this. Apologies if this has been answered elsewhere on the fours.
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| 010585 (351hp) | Hello everyone, I have a 2015 F10 528i LCI with a factory i-level of f010-15-03-502. This is still my current I-Level and all ECUs have this I-Level except the ASD which I recoded to F010-15-03-503 as I had changed a few FDL codes using Bimmercode and reset it wanted factory settings. I will be retrofitting the S688 Harman Kardon in my vehicle (it currently has basic/stereo audio). The speakers/tweeters/subwoofers are dated August 2013, but the amplifier is dated August 2019. The seller claims that all the hardware is from the same Doner car (2014 model F10) and may have been replaced at some point before, but who knows. The amplifier is a BE B219 / part number: 6815972. It has the ASD connection and should therefore be compatible with the ASD in my car. Now my question is, can the amplifier/ECU that has a build date higher than the vehicle I level be coded for my car using ESYS? Or do I have to update the i-Level in my car first before installing newer ECUs? I'm new to coding with ESYS and so wanted to check with people who have experience coding with Esys. I tried searching online but couldn't find a definitive answer to this. Apologies if this has been answered elsewhere on the fours.
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| eremei_vasechkin (241hp) | I ordered a VRSF downpipe for my 2016 528. I'm just curious how bad the V-clamp and turbo seals can get. Should I spend the extra $50 to purchase the downspout with a new gasket and V-clamp? The bearing size is 4 inches anyway, these parts carry easily?
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| beloved (830hp) | Quote: Originally posted by rk05 I ordered a VRSF downpipe for my 2016 528. I'm just curious how bad the V-clamp and turbo seals can get. Should I spend the extra $50 to purchase the downspout with a new gasket and V-clamp? The stock size is 4 inches anyway. Are these pieces easy to wear? I don't know that they wear badly or are broken, but with seven year old exhausts I think you forget about the $50 within the first 100 miles.
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| sasuke01 (451hp) | I ordered a VRSF downpipe for my 2016 528. I'm just curious how bad the V-clamp and turbo seals can get. Should I spend the extra $50 to purchase the downspout with a new gasket and V-clamp? The storage size is 4 inches anyway, making these parts easy to carry??
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| 25051984 (745hp) | Quote: Originally posted by rk05 I ordered a VRSF downpipe for my 2016 528. I'm just curious how bad the V-clamp and turbo seals can get. Should I spend the extra $50 to purchase the downspout with a new gasket and V-clamp? The stock size is 4 inches anyway. Are these pieces easy to wear? I don't know that they wear badly or are broken, but with seven year old exhausts I think you forget about the $50 within the first 100 miles.
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| kanyewest (846hp) | How reliable do you think the N55 engine is? Recently I've been thinking about putting some money into the engine, like replacing spark plugs, coils and more. I prefer only OEM parts, not after market parts. The vehicle I own is a 2014 535i Msport with 76,000 miles. Let me know your thoughts!
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| godloves1 (538hp) | I say very reliable. I have 170,000 in my account. No major issues, but I always try to stay one step ahead on maintenance.
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| ethrnz (619hp) | 322K miles. Original engine and gearbox
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| gumby1 (901hp) | I can say one thing for sure. If you don't maintain an engine, it won't be reliable. If you want your drivetrain to last, do the recommended maintenance, no lifetime fluids, fix things when they break, and don't use a hot air intake (cold air, affects filtering ability), don't tune it and it will last a long time. There are no fords where quality doesn't matter and routine maintenance on a Bronco Sport includes an engine change every 15,000 to 30,000 miles.
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| castlepines (39hp) | More reliable than an N54 as they say, and the N54 people still stand behind their stuff. I myself am aiming for a Ghassen G800 with closed deck, ported head and single, am currently at 54,000 miles and love what I have now. I bought my car with the intention of having fun, keeping it nice and POS FREE!
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| mother12 (794hp) | Quote: Originally posted by Hoa 322,000 miles. Original engine and gearbox. Wow! I find it incredible that these engines can last so long. Is that a lot of highway driving? Good oil and regular changes, I think.
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| 090393 (573hp) | Quote: Originally written by Fknid Wow! I find it incredible that these engines can last so long. Is that a lot of highway driving? Good oil and regular changes, I think. I covered the most kilometers in the first 6 years. I drive about 50,000 miles a year. It's a lot of highway. About 150 miles per day. I got a replacement vehicle, so this vehicle hasn't been driven much in the last year
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| 123125 (323hp) | Quote: Originally posted by Hoa 322,000 miles. Original engine and gearbox. Have you changed the gear oil at all, or if you have changed it, at what mileage did you change it and why did you change the gear oil??
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| 535i MSport (568hp) | Quote: Originally posted by sdasari Have you changed the transmission fluid at all, or if so, at what mileage did you change it and for what reason did you change the transmission fluid? Yes, I'll change them. They don't last a lifetime like BMW claims. ZF makes the transmission and recommends a transmission fluid change every eight years or 50,000 miles, whichever comes first. Since I drive a lot, I have to top up all the fluids every year. I just empty and fill instead of replacing the pan which has a filter built into it. Two maintenance jobs ago, my drain plug broke when I tried to tighten it. It is made of plastic and through many heat cycles it simply becomes brittle and gives up the ghost. At the last service I was forced to replace the tub because I couldn't drain any more water and after 281,000 miles there wasn't much left in it.
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| rediffmail (469hp) | These are maintenance tasks and should still be carried out.
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| powerpuff1 (304hp) | Quote: Originally posted by sdasari How reliable do you think the N55 engine is? More than an N54, less than a B58. They're good engines, but from what I've read there's really nothing wrong with the B58. If you like the rest of the car, invest some money in maintenance and it will last as long as you want it to! Good overview of the engines and praise for the B58:
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| claire2 (159hp) | I also have a 2014 535i, almost 10 years old and still going strong. I'm not sure the LCI gets more quality parts. I also changed the transmission and differential oil. Apart from the very small leaks that just need to be fixed quickly to avoid affecting other parts. Replacing the charging tube is also recommended for this model.
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| miranda12 (978hp) | How reliable do you think the N55 engine is? Recently I've been thinking about putting some money into the engine, like replacing spark plugs, coils and more. I prefer only OEM parts, not after market parts. The vehicle I own is a 2014 535i Msport with 76,000 miles. Let me know your thoughts!
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| reyrey1 (185hp) | I say very reliable. I have 170,000 in my account. No major issues, but I always try to stay one step ahead on maintenance.
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| sydney22 (843hp) | 322K miles. Original engine and gearbox
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| jordan77 (476hp) | I can say one thing for sure. If you don't maintain an engine, it won't be reliable. If you want your drivetrain to last, do the recommended maintenance, no lifetime fluids, fix things when they break, and don't use a hot air intake (cold air, affects filtering ability), don't tune it and it will last a long time. There are no fords where quality doesn't matter and routine maintenance on a Bronco Sport includes an engine change every 15,000 to 30,000 miles.
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| corey123 (581hp) | More reliable than an N54 as they say, and the N54 people still stand behind their stuff. I myself am aiming for a Ghassen G800 with closed deck, ported head and single, am currently at 54,000 miles and love what I have now. I bought my car with the intention of having fun, keeping it nice and POS FREE!
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| robrob (402hp) | Quote: Originally posted by Hoa 322K miles. Original engine and gearbox. Wow! I find it incredible that these engines can last so long. Is that a lot of highway driving? Good oil and regular changes, I think.
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| poypoy (341hp) | Quote: Originally written by Fknid Wow! I find it incredible that these engines can last so long. Is that a lot of highway driving? Good oil and regular changes, I think. I covered the most kilometers in the first 6 years. I drive about 50,000 miles a year. It's a lot of highway. About 150 miles per day. I got a replacement vehicle, so this vehicle hasn't been driven much in the last year
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| k1k2k3 (652hp) | Quote: Originally posted by Hoa 322,000 miles. Original engine and gearbox. Have you changed the gear oil at all, or if you have changed it, at what mileage did you change it and why did you change the gear oil??
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| 102300 (736hp) | Quote: Originally posted by sdasari Have you changed the transmission fluid at all, or if so, at what mileage did you change it and for what reason did you change the transmission fluid? Yes, I'll change them. They don't last a lifetime like BMW claims. ZF makes the transmission and recommends a transmission fluid change every eight years or 50,000 miles, whichever comes first. Since I drive a lot, I have to top up all the fluids every year. I just empty and fill instead of replacing the pan which has a filter built into it. Two maintenance jobs ago, my drain plug broke when I tried to tighten it. It is made of plastic and through many heat cycles it simply becomes brittle and gives up the ghost. At the last service I was forced to replace the tub because I couldn't drain any more water and after 281,000 miles there wasn't much left in it.
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| guntis (463hp) | These are maintenance tasks and should still be carried out.
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| 1472583691 (832hp) | Quote: Originally posted by sdasari How reliable do you think the N55 engine is? More than an N54, less than a B58. They're good engines, but from what I've read there's really nothing wrong with the B58. If you like the rest of the car, invest some money in maintenance and it will last as long as you want it to! Good overview of the engines and praise for the B58:
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| 232629 (66hp) | I also have a 2014 535i, almost 10 years old and still going strong. I'm not sure the LCI gets more quality parts. I also changed the transmission and differential oil. Apart from the very small leaks that just need to be fixed quickly to avoid affecting other parts. Replacing the charging tube is also recommended for this model.
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| 190889 (13hp) | Did a search but didn't find anything... After the car is driven and parked for a short period of time (e.g. 3 hours or less), it makes a high pitched whistling noise when driving. Facts: - Only occurs when the car has been driven and is still “warm”. - Does not occur on cold start like in the morning or when parked for several hours. - The noise is not speed dependent and has no connection to acceleration or deceleration (pitch does not change... just one weeeeeeeeeeeeeeeeeeeeeeeeeeeeeeeeeeeeeeeeeeeeeeeeeeeeeeeeeeeeeeeeeeeeeeeeeeeeeeeeeeeeeeeeeeeeeeeeeeeeeeeeeeeeeeeeeeeee Occurs while driving, not when stopping - disappears after a few minutes of driving it completely - not from the air conditioner. Happens with the air conditioning/heater on or off. Any ideas or has anyone experienced the same thing?
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| creature (449hp) | It's probably a PCV vent line. This is a common problem. Check for broken lines, especially those near the engine or crossing the engine if you have AV lines8
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| scoala (64hp) | Doubtful that it is a vent line. If so, why does it only happen after a warm start and disappear after a few minutes of driving? Here too it is not speed or engine dependent. When the car is driving and I put it in neutral and leave it in neutral it is still there. Same pitch until I come to a stop.
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| mocsman (246hp) | Had the same problem except it just disappeared while driving, idling, high pitched noise. Here's how to check for vents and/or lines while idling. If it makes noise, just pull off the oil cap. If the problem goes away, it is the vents or pipes.
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| radish (703hp) | I don't have any noise when it doesn't move. Only when it moves and the noise continues even when I put it in neutral and let it idle
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| 201308 (160hp) | I have the same whistle sound and conditions when it happens. Only happens when the car is moving. Like the OP, I feel like it happens when the car isn't fully warm or fully cold. Mine seems to stop once it's fully warmed up.
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| blue222 (959hp) | Quote: Originally posted by Kneepuck Did a search but didn't find anything... After the car is driven and parked for a short period of time (e.g. 3 hours or less), it makes a high pitched whistling noise when driving. Facts: - Only occurs when the car has been driven and is still “warm”. - Does not occur on cold start like in the morning or when parked for several hours. - The noise is not speed dependent and has no connection to acceleration or deceleration (pitch does not change... just one weeeeeeeeeeeeeeeeeeeeeeeeeeeeeeeeeeeeeeeeeeeeeeeeeeeeeeeeeeeeeeeeeeeeeeeeeeeeeeeeeeeeeeeeeeeeeeeeeeeeeeeeeeeeeeeeeeeee Occurs while driving, not when stopping - disappears after a few minutes of driving it completely - not from the air conditioning. Happens with the air conditioning/heater on or off. Any ideas or has anyone experienced the same thing???
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| #1stunner (114hp) | Quote: Originally posted by Gulfstream550. Do you happen to use a cigarette lighter phone charger? No, I almost never charge my phone in the car. It only happens after driving, then after a few hours of parking when the car isn't completely cold, and then again after the first few minutes of driving.
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| 030180 (802hp) | Could be your PCV/CCV. It sounds like the video at 58s?.
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| 250989 (233hp) | That's definitely not it. I've had an E90 before with a broken PCV in the valve cover, so I'm familiar with this problem.
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| olemiss (585hp) | Quote: Originally written by Kneepuck No, I almost never charge my phone in the car. It only happens after driving, then after a few hours of parking when the car isn't completely cold, and then again after the first few minutes of driving. Good to know, I think I may have solved my problem. I saw a post on reddit about the USB car chargers leaving out some strange frequencies. I unplugged my charger from the cigarette lighter port and haven't heard the whistle since. I'll get back to you if anything changes.
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| 09092009 (532hp) | @ Kneepuck My car (2009 F02 750Li) does the exact same thing!!! Have you ever found the cause of this mysterious symptom??
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| states (118hp) | Kniepuck Hello, have you ever repaired the pipe? I'm having exactly the same problem right now. Thank you for your help
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| brooklyn11 (298hp) | Kniepuck, have you solved that please? It's driving me crazy, I can't figure out what it is? Knee puck ?
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| lisbon (72hp) | Did a search but didn't find anything... After the car is driven and parked for a short period of time (e.g. 3 hours or less), it makes a high pitched whistling noise when driving. Facts: - Only occurs when the car has been driven and is still “warm”. - Does not occur when starting cold like in the morning or when parked for several hours. - The noise is not speed dependent and has no connection to acceleration or deceleration (pitch does not change... just one weeeeeeeeeeeeeeeeeeeeeeeeeeeeeeeeeeeeeeeeeeeeeeeeeeeeeeeeeeeeeeeeeeeeeeeeeeeeeeeeeeeeeeeeeeeeeeeeeeeeeeeeeeeeeeeeeeeee Occurs while driving, not when stopping - disappears after a few minutes of driving it completely - not from the air conditioner. Happens with the air conditioning/heater on or off. Any ideas or has anyone experienced the same thing?
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| CM1972 (865hp) | It's probably a PCV vent line. This is a common problem. Check for broken lines, especially those near the engine or crossing the engine if you have AV lines8
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| 03071985 (74hp) | Doubtful that it is a vent line. If so, why does it only happen after a warm start and disappear after a few minutes of driving? Here too it is not speed or engine dependent. When the car is driving and I put it in neutral and leave it in neutral it is still there. Same pitch until I come to a stop.
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| tuktuk (997hp) | Had the same problem except it just disappeared while driving, idling, high pitched noise. Here's how to check for vents and/or lines while idling. If it makes noise, just pull off the oil cap. If the problem goes away, it is the vents or pipes.
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| zsolti (506hp) | I don't have any noise when it doesn't move. Only when it moves and the noise continues even when I put it in neutral and let it idle
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| 010204 (4hp) | I have the same whistle sound and conditions when it happens. Only happens when the car is moving. Like the OP, I feel like it happens when the car isn't fully warm or fully cold. Mine seems to stop once it's fully warmed up.
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| 20091988 (685hp) | Quote: Originally posted by Kneepuck Did a search but didn't find anything... After the car is driven and parked for a short period of time (e.g. 3 hours or less), it makes a high pitched whistling noise when driving. Facts: - Only occurs when the car has been driven and is still “warm”. - Does not occur on cold start like in the morning or when parked for several hours. - The noise is not speed dependent and has no connection to acceleration or deceleration (pitch does not change... just one weeeeeeeeeeeeeeeeeeeeeeeeeeeeeeeeeeeeeeeeeeeeeeeeeeeeeeeeeeeeeeeeeeeeeeeeeeeeeeeeeeeeeeeeeeeeeeeeeeeeeeeeeeeeeeeeeeeee Occurs while driving, not when stopping - disappears after a few minutes of driving it completely - not from the air conditioning. Happens with the air conditioning/heater on or off. Any ideas or has anyone experienced the same thing???
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| 031082 (250hp) | Quote: Originally posted by Gulfstream550. Do you happen to use a cigarette lighter phone charger? No, I almost never charge my phone in the car. It only happens after driving, then after a few hours of parking when the car isn't completely cold, and then again after the first few minutes of driving.
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| ranjit (156hp) | Could be your PCV/CCV. It sounds like the video at 58s?.
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| 140487 (580hp) | That's definitely not it. I've had an E90 before with a broken PCV in the valve cover, so I'm familiar with this problem.
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| lakers88 (15hp) | Quote: Originally written by Kneepuck No, I almost never charge my phone in the car. It only happens after driving, then after a few hours of parking when the car isn't completely cold, and then again after the first few minutes of driving. Good to know, I think I may have solved my problem. I saw a post on reddit about the USB car chargers leaving out some strange frequencies. I unplugged my charger from the cigarette lighter port and haven't heard the whistle since. I'll get back to you if anything changes.
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| kaczka (984hp) | @ Kneepuck My car (2009 F02 750Li) does the exact same thing!!! Have you ever found the cause of this mysterious symptom??
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| freddie2 (339hp) | Kniepuck Hello, have you ever repaired the pipe? I'm having exactly the same problem right now. Thank you for your help
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| 280787 (942hp) | Kniepuck, have you solved that please? It's driving me crazy, I can't figure out what it is? Knee puck ?
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| elvis2 (566hp) | Greetings! I recently replaced the timing chain as well as the oil pump pump and sprocket. I have searched and seen many threads where others have the same codes after replacing their timing components. Today I took it to an independent BMW repair shop and they were unable to reprogram the DME due to I-level restrictions. They recommend taking it to the dealer. The TSB recommends not replacing any parts, but rather having the DME updated. Question: Does anyone think the dealer can overcome this limitation? Or is it better to buy a used DME and have it programmed to my car? For reference, these are today's codes: 130308 VANOS exhaust control error. Position not reached. 131401 VANOS exhaust cold start cannot be controlled 120408 Shutdown of the boost pressure control as a result Note: For the above codes there is a TSB that states that the DME should be updated. I don't know if this car is tuned as I bought it a few months ago. 2 more codes: P054B cold start 'B' camshaft position timing exceeded - bank 1 retarded Al, so: P13C9 I found the following: P13C9: VANOS, exhaust: control error, camshaft stuck. From the BMW DTC sheet: The diagnostic function monitors the camshaft adjustment. Possible causes – Contaminated oil channel on the VANOS solenoid valve. Oil pressure too low. Defect in the wiring harness to the VANOS solenoid valve. VANOS solenoid valve blocked. VANOS solenoid valve defective. The VANOS code is newer than today. I disassembled the VANOS valve and it was clean and moved freely in the barrel. So it won't be confiscated. Question: Is the VANOS solenoid valve ^ the same as what RealOEM calls an actuator (P/N: 11367593719)? Sorry for the long post. I think I need to address two separate issues: 1) DME programming and 2) VANOS/timing. I'm not sure if 1 could be the cause of 2. I will check the wiring to the VANOS and the engine timing again. Thanks for reading! Any help is appreciated. Dan
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| Taymaishu (15hp) | Greetings! I recently replaced the timing chain as well as the oil pump pump and sprocket. I have searched and seen many threads where others have the same codes after replacing their timing components. Today I took it to an independent BMW repair shop and they were unable to reprogram the DME due to I-level restrictions. They recommend taking it to the dealer. The TSB recommends not replacing any parts, but rather having the DME updated. Question: Does anyone think the dealer can overcome this limitation? Or is it better to buy a used DME and have it programmed to my car? For reference, these are today's codes: 130308 VANOS exhaust control error. Position not reached. 131401 VANOS exhaust cold start cannot be controlled 120408 Shutdown of the boost pressure control as a result Note: For the above codes there is a TSB that states that the DME should be updated. I don't know if this car is tuned as I bought it a few months ago. 2 more codes: P054B cold start 'B' camshaft position timing exceeded - bank 1 retarded Al, so: P13C9 I found the following: P13C9: VANOS, exhaust: control error, camshaft stuck. From the BMW DTC sheet: The diagnostic function monitors the camshaft adjustment. Possible causes – Contaminated oil channel on the VANOS solenoid valve. Oil pressure too low. Defect in the wiring harness to the VANOS solenoid valve. VANOS solenoid valve blocked. VANOS solenoid valve defective. The VANOS code is newer than today. I disassembled the VANOS valve and it was clean and moved freely in the barrel. So it won't be confiscated. Question: Is the VANOS solenoid valve ^ the same as what RealOEM calls an actuator (P/N: 11367593719)? Sorry for the long post. I think I need to address two separate issues: 1) DME programming and 2) VANOS/timing. I'm not sure if 1 could be the cause of 2. I will check the wiring to the VANOS and the engine timing again. Thanks for reading! Any help is appreciated. Dan
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| windowsxp1 (500hp) | Hi guys, I'm new to the forum so I might be asking a question that's already been answered. Excuse me for this and please guide me. I have 2014 550i Msport, 67K mls and received an error message about a powertrain malfunction. I drove more than 25 miles back home. What I noticed was that the car behaved as if it was running in a higher gear. To combat this, I shifted gears manually to keep the speed between 2,000 and 3,000 rpm. The idle is also rough, but not extremely rough. I am a DIY enthusiast and have educated myself through this forum. To make the diagnosis, I spent hours downloading ISTA D 4.36.40. However, a hardware-based license is required to proceed, so I'd like to avoid that. I can afford it, but I don't like the feeling of being trapped. I read that version 4.30 of ISTA does not require this license. Is that right? I'm in the process of downloading this version, but can anyone confirm whether this software also requires a license (even if it's a fixed key that someone can share)? I want to believe that one or more of the ignition coils or spark plugs are bad, but I don't know how to diagnose. I have both an ENET cable and a DKAN cable that I use for my E90 330i. I welcome advice and active participation in this community.
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| 210187 (725hp) | I would check your drive chain and guides. Something similar happened to me. I changed it myself. If that's the case, it's a time-consuming but doable task. Could be your connectors, coils or crankshaft position sensors, but I would take it to a diagnosis so you can avoid weeks of troubleshooting like I did.
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| classof07 (629hp) | Quote: Originally posted by SamyS Hi guys, I'm new to the forum so I might be asking a question that's already been answered. Excuse me for this and please guide me. I have 2014 550i Msport, 67K mls and received an error message about a powertrain malfunction. I drove more than 25 miles back home. What I noticed was that the car behaved as if it was running in a higher gear. To combat this, I shifted gears manually to keep the speed between 2,000 and 3,000 rpm. The idle is also rough, but not extremely rough. I am a DIY enthusiast and have educated myself through this forum. To make the diagnosis, I spent hours downloading ISTA D 4.36.40. However, a hardware-based license is required to proceed, so I'd like to avoid that. I can afford it, but I don't like the feeling of being trapped. I read that version 4.30 of ISTA does not require this license. Is that right? I'm in the process of downloading this version, but can anyone confirm whether this software also requires a license (even if it's a fixed key that someone can share)? I want to believe that one or more of the ignition coils or spark plugs are bad, but I don't know how to diagnose. I have both an ENET cable and a DKAN cable that I use for my E90 330i. I welcome advice and active participation in this community. Have you already scanned the codes???
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| 01101982 (232hp) | Hi guys, I'm new to the forum so I might be asking a question that's already been answered. Excuse me for this and please guide me. I have 2014 550i Msport, 67K mls and received an error message about a powertrain malfunction. I drove more than 25 miles back home. What I noticed was that the car behaved as if it was running in a higher gear. To combat this, I shifted gears manually to keep the speed between 2,000 and 3,000 rpm. The idle is also rough, but not extremely rough. I am a DIY enthusiast and have educated myself through this forum. To make the diagnosis, I spent hours downloading ISTA D 4.36.40. However, a hardware-based license is required to proceed, so I'd like to avoid that. I can afford it, but I don't like the feeling of being trapped. I read that version 4.30 of ISTA does not require this license. Is that right? I'm in the process of downloading this version, but can anyone confirm whether this software also requires a license (even if it's a fixed key that someone can share)? I want to believe that one or more of the ignition coils or spark plugs are bad, but I don't know how to diagnose. I have both an ENET cable and a DKAN cable that I use for my E90 330i. I welcome advice and active participation in this community.
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| 97mdrei (807hp) | I would check your drive chain and guides. Something similar happened to me. I changed it myself. If that's the case, it's a time-consuming but doable task. Could be your connectors, coils or crankshaft position sensors, but I would take it to a diagnosis so you can avoid weeks of troubleshooting like I did.
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| 020686 (232hp) | Quote: Originally posted by SamyS Hi guys, I'm new to the forum so I might be asking a question that's already been answered. Excuse me for this and please guide me. I have 2014 550i Msport, 67K mls and received an error message about a powertrain malfunction. I drove more than 25 miles back home. What I noticed was that the car behaved as if it was running in a higher gear. To combat this, I shifted gears manually to keep the speed between 2,000 and 3,000 rpm. The idle is also rough, but not extremely rough. I am a DIY enthusiast and have educated myself through this forum. To make the diagnosis, I spent hours downloading ISTA D 4.36.40. However, a hardware-based license is required to proceed, so I'd like to avoid that. I can afford it, but I don't like the feeling of being trapped. I read that version 4.30 of ISTA does not require this license. Is that right? I'm in the process of downloading this version, but can anyone confirm whether this software also requires a license (even if it's a fixed key that someone can share)? I want to believe that one or more of the ignition coils or spark plugs are bad, but I don't know how to diagnose. I have both an ENET cable and a DKAN cable that I use for my E90 330i. I welcome advice and active participation in this community. Have you already scanned the codes???
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| 140282 (125hp) | Hello everyone, I drive my late grandfather's 2011 F10 535i in titanium silver. It only has about 40,000 km on the clock. Specs-wise it's pretty basic, so I've been thinking about upgrading it to the M Sport package and possibly deleting Chrome and painting the lower part of the side mirrors gloss black. I'm also thinking about installing the 6WA instrument cluster and possibly an OEM backup camera on it. To cut a long story short: Where can I order pre-painted M Sport bumpers and rims? Approximately how much would all of this cost? Has anyone ever done this? Were there any issues you faced? I am attaching pictures of what my car looks like and how I want it to look.
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| tellme1 (844hp) | Hello everyone, I drive my late grandfather's 2011 F10 535i in titanium silver. It only has about 40,000 km on the clock. Specs-wise it's pretty basic, so I've been thinking about upgrading it to the M Sport package and possibly deleting Chrome and painting the lower part of the side mirrors gloss black. I'm also thinking about installing the 6WA instrument cluster and possibly an OEM backup camera on it. To cut a long story short: Where can I order pre-painted M Sport bumpers and rims? Approximately how much would all of this cost? Has anyone ever done this? Were there any issues you faced? I am attaching pictures of what my car looks like and how I want it to look.
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| roil (477hp) | While driving on the highway, the car downshifted and stalled. Now I'm stuck in the park. Doesn't start anymore. Sometimes it just clicks, other times it cranks slowly for about 5 seconds, then the power to the cabin shuts off and the lights/screen come back on. I cranked the engine by hand with the breaker bar five or six times to make sure it wasn't stuck. The ground wire becomes hot when attempting to start and the battery voltage drops from 12.6V to 9V when attempting to start and is discharged. Took it to a local shop out of state, the guy called me and said he thinks it's seized and his guy can't turn the motor anymore. What I told him was strange since I did it before it was brought there.
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| DblDown (369hp) | While driving on the highway, the car downshifted and stalled. Now I'm stuck in the park. Doesn't start anymore. Sometimes it just clicks, other times it cranks slowly for about 5 seconds, then the power to the cabin shuts off and the lights/screen come back on. I cranked the engine by hand with the breaker bar five or six times to make sure it wasn't stuck. The ground wire becomes hot when attempting to start and the battery voltage drops from 12.6V to 9V when attempting to start and is discharged. Took it to a local shop out of state, the guy called me and said he thinks it's seized and his guy can't turn the motor anymore. What I told him was strange since I did it before it was brought there.
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| 210788 (927hp) | I get MAF error 102302 at full throttle, but only at higher speeds and gears when more time is spent at those higher RPMs. Basically anything above 4th gear (4th gear is 50/50). The car gives an iDrive fault, leaves no CEL, but logs this code: 102302: Hot film mass air flow sensor, operating range: period length too low, air mass too high. The entire PCV system was replaced due to some leaks, no change. I tightened the boot connecting the PA side airbox to the turbo inlet pipe, no change. The MAF sensor is fine because I replaced it and the code still remains on bank 1 (PA side). Any ideas?
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| Agent007 (985hp) | Quote: Originally posted by tx328xi I get MAF error 102302 at full throttle, but only at higher speeds and gears when more time is spent at those higher RPMs. I would double check all the intake connections and the turbo inlet. I had this error a few years ago when a clutch fell apart after the MAF sensor (error from working on the car late at night into the early hours of the morning). I would start there and visually inspect each connection. Stock acceptance or aftermarket? If A/M, what make/model? I know you said you tightened the turbo inlet pipe. Is it still tight or is it loose again after a minute of operation???
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| lolalola1 (214hp) | Quote: Originally posted by 550bye I would double check all the intake ports and the turbo inlet. I had this error a few years ago when a clutch fell apart after the MAF sensor (error from working on the car late at night into the early hours of the morning). I would start there and visually inspect each connection. Stock acceptance or aftermarket? If A/M, what make/model? I know you said you tightened the turbo inlet pipe. Is it still tight or is it loose again after a minute of operation? Hey, thanks for the answer! Inventory Inventory What connectors should I look for? - The exchange of the MAFs could not be solved. - Bank 1 turbo inlet seems fine, but it sounds like I should check again. - Bank 1's PCV and so on seem to be fine. What else is there besides the above??
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| stepan (3hp) | tx328xi, do you have a picture of the engine bay or at least the bench intake system that you can share??
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| 173173 (609hp) | Quote: Originally posted by 550bye tx328xi. Do you have a picture of the engine bay or at least the intake system that you can share? The inlet is completely standard except for the charging pipes: View article on imgur.com
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| hollister. (970hp) | Quote: Originally written by tx328xi. The intake is completely stock except for the charge pipes: View post on imgur.com It's a little blurry when I move it so I can't see clearly, but I wanted to see if the clip was pointing downwards. But as far as connections go, I had issues with the main clutch/sleeve that connected the turbo intake to the airbox. I know as they get older they start to fall apart at the tabs. Are there any cracks or major signs of wear on this boot? Airbox is nice and tight? The air filter in the airbox looks OK? The service plan includes checking the cable connections, testing the cables or replacing the sensor. Since you swapped them, it could be a wiring issue. Have you checked the wires and looked for any cuts or nicks? Have you tried working on the disconnected connectors (with the battery disconnected) with a brush or air from a can? Fault service plan. Visual inspection of the plug contacts (components and DME). Measure sensor cable, power supply and ground (loose contact!) – Replace sensor
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| 041978 (302hp) | Quote: Originally posted by 550bye. It's a little blurry on the DL so I can't see clearly, but I checked to see if the clip was facing down. But as far as connections go, I had issues with the main clutch/sleeve that connected the turbo intake to the airbox. I know as they get older they start to fall apart at the tabs. Are there any cracks or major signs of wear on this boot? Airbox is nice and tight? The air filter in the airbox looks OK? The service plan includes checking the cable connections, testing the cables or replacing the sensor. Since you swapped them, it could be a wiring issue. Have you checked the wires and looked for any cuts or nicks? Have you tried working on the disconnected connectors (with the battery disconnected) with a brush or air from a can? Fault service plan. Visual inspection of the plug contacts (components and DME). Measure sensor cable, power and ground (loose contact!) - Replace sensor, great input all around... I really appreciate this - I'll take a look at it this week
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| mckinley (919hp) | Quote: Originally written by tx328xi, great input all about the man... I really appreciate it - I'll be checking it out at all this week NP. I'm looking through my old photos before I installed my intake vents. So the MAF clip on bank 1 should be facing down. Good luck and let us know if you find a solution.🤞,🏽,
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| sexyboi1 (238hp) | Quote: Originally posted by 550bye NP at all. I'm looking through my old photos before I installed my intake vents. So the MAF clip on bank 1 should be facing down. Good luck and let us know if you find a solution. 🤞, 🏽, thank you sir – my connections are aligned correctly. I'll disconnect the battery and bleed it. Is there any brushing/cleaning I should try??
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| Adiparker (915hp) | Quote: Originally written by tx328xi. Thank you sir – my connections are aligned correctly. I'll disconnect the battery and bleed it. Is there some brushing/cleaning I should try? Just a small brush of some sort, I'm kind of grasping at straws here, but based on the information from the service plan, it's worth taking a look at just to be sure.
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| 3009 (253hp) | Is there an update on this by any chance? If I encounter the same thing, everything is fine.
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| Delphi (115hp) | Quote: Originally written by Mandrow7 Is there an update on this by any chance? If I encounter the same thing, everything is fine. Hey, either the shop that replaced my PCV or my buddy who built this low mileage engine for me wore out the teeth on the intake manifold where the lower PCV connects. My problem, particularly due to tuning and higher than normal boost pressure, is an air leak where the PCV connects to the passenger side intake manifold. For this reason it only happens in higher gears/speeds when the boost at WOT has more time to build up to a high value. As soon as it leaks, MAF says that this air volume is incorrect - drivetrain malfunction. Replacing the manifold is a big job, so I'll just keep the speed below 6000 rpm for now
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| tigger66 (656hp) | Quote: Originally posted by tx328xi Hey, either the shop that replaced my PCV or my buddy who built this low mileage engine for me wore out the teeth on the intake manifold where the lower PCV connects. My problem, particularly due to tuning and higher than normal boost pressure, is an air leak where the PCV connects to the passenger side intake manifold. For this reason it only happens in higher gears/speeds when the boost at WOT has more time to build up to a high value. As soon as it leaks, MAF says that this air volume is incorrect - drivetrain malfunction. Replacing the manifold is a big job, so I'll just keep it under 6000 rpm for now. So when you say where the lower PCV connects to the intake manifold, are you talking about the longer PCV that comes from the bottom/side of the block and goes to the turbo intake side? I do have two broken tabs on the clip, but it still clamps and looks tight.
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| MmmmmM2 (952hp) | I get MAF error 102302 at full throttle, but only at higher speeds and gears when more time is spent at those higher RPMs. Basically anything above 4th gear (4th gear is 50/50). The car gives an iDrive fault, leaves no CEL, but logs this code: 102302: Hot film mass air flow sensor, operating range: period length too low, air mass too high. The entire PCV system was replaced due to some leaks, no change. I tightened the boot connecting the PA side airbox to the turbo inlet pipe, no change. The MAF sensor is fine because I replaced it and the code still remains on bank 1 (PA side). Any ideas?
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| gannon (281hp) | Quote: Originally posted by tx328xi I get MAF error 102302 at full throttle, but only at higher speeds and gears when more time is spent at those higher RPMs. I would double check all the intake connections and the turbo inlet. I had this error a few years ago when a clutch fell apart after the MAF sensor (error from working on the car late at night into the early hours of the morning). I would start there and visually inspect each connection. Stock acceptance or aftermarket? If A/M, what make/model? I know you said you tightened the turbo inlet pipe. Is it still tight or is it loose again after a minute of operation???
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| 301293 (475hp) | Quote: Originally posted by 550bye I would double check all the intake ports and the turbo inlet. I had this error a few years ago when a clutch fell apart after the MAF sensor (error from working on the car late at night into the early hours of the morning). I would start there and visually inspect each connection. Stock acceptance or aftermarket? If A/M, what make/model? I know you said you tightened the turbo inlet pipe. Is it still tight or is it loose again after a minute of operation? Hey, thanks for the answer! Inventory Inventory What connectors should I look for? - The exchange of the MAFs could not be solved. - Bank 1 turbo inlet seems fine, but it sounds like I should check again. - Bank 1's PCV and so on seem to be fine. What else is there besides the above??
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| tomo.n (522hp) | tx328xi, do you have a picture of the engine bay or at least the bench intake system that you can share??
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| tree1234 (516hp) | Quote: Originally posted by 550bye tx328xi. Do you have a picture of the engine bay or at least the intake system that you can share? The inlet is completely standard except for the charging pipes: View article on imgur.com
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| pitbull2 (527hp) | Quote: Originally written by tx328xi. The intake is completely stock except for the charge pipes: View post on imgur.com It's a little blurry when I move it so I can't see clearly, but I wanted to see if the clip was pointing downwards. But as far as connections go, I had issues with the main clutch/sleeve that connected the turbo intake to the airbox. I know as they get older they start to fall apart at the tabs. Are there any cracks or major signs of wear on this boot? Airbox is nice and tight? The air filter in the airbox looks OK? The service plan includes checking the cable connections, testing the cables or replacing the sensor. Since you swapped them, it could be a wiring issue. Have you checked the wires and looked for any cuts or nicks? Have you tried working on the disconnected connectors (with the battery disconnected) with a brush or air from a can? Fault service plan. Visual inspection of the plug contacts (components and DME). Measure sensor cable, power supply and ground (loose contact!) – Replace sensor
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| 04071992 (38hp) | Quote: Originally posted by 550bye. It's a little blurry on the DL so I can't see clearly, but I checked to see if the clip was facing down. But as far as connections go, I had issues with the main clutch/sleeve that connected the turbo intake to the airbox. I know as they get older they start to fall apart at the tabs. Are there any cracks or major signs of wear on this boot? Airbox is nice and tight? The air filter in the airbox looks OK? The service plan includes checking the cable connections, testing the cables or replacing the sensor. Since you swapped them, it could be a wiring issue. Have you checked the wires and looked for any cuts or nicks? Have you tried working on the disconnected connectors (with the battery disconnected) with a brush or air from a can? Fault service plan. Visual inspection of the plug contacts (components and DME). Measure sensor cable, power and ground (loose contact!) - Replace sensor, great input all around... I really appreciate this - I'll take a look at it this week
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| artichoke (481hp) | Quote: Originally written by tx328xi, great input all about the man... I really appreciate it - I'll be checking it out at all this week NP. I'm looking through my old photos before I installed my intake vents. So the MAF clip on bank 1 should be facing down. Good luck and let us know if you find a solution.🤞,🏽,
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| bored (609hp) | Quote: Originally posted by 550bye NP at all. I'm looking through my old photos before I installed my intake vents. So the MAF clip on bank 1 should be facing down. Good luck and let us know if you find a solution. 🤞, 🏽, thank you sir – my connections are aligned correctly. I'll disconnect the battery and bleed it. Is there any brushing/cleaning I should try??
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| V (593hp) | Quote: Originally written by tx328xi. Thank you sir – my connections are aligned correctly. I'll disconnect the battery and bleed it. Is there some brushing/cleaning I should try? Just a small brush of some sort, I'm kind of grasping at straws here, but based on the information from the service plan, it's worth taking a look at just to be sure.
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| recherche (991hp) | Is there an update on this by any chance? If I encounter the same thing, everything is fine.
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| family! (957hp) | Quote: Originally written by Mandrow7 Is there an update on this by any chance? If I encounter the same thing, everything is fine. Hey, either the shop that replaced my PCV or my buddy who built this low mileage engine for me wore out the teeth on the intake manifold where the lower PCV connects. My problem, particularly due to tuning and higher than normal boost pressure, is an air leak where the PCV connects to the passenger side intake manifold. For this reason it only happens in higher gears/speeds when the boost at WOT has more time to build up to a high value. As soon as it leaks, MAF says that this air volume is incorrect - drivetrain malfunction. Replacing the manifold is a big job, so I'll just keep the speed below 6000 rpm for now
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| pacopaco (848hp) | Quote: Originally posted by tx328xi Hey, either the shop that replaced my PCV or my buddy who built this low mileage engine for me wore out the teeth on the intake manifold where the lower PCV connects. My problem, particularly due to tuning and higher than normal boost pressure, is an air leak where the PCV connects to the passenger side intake manifold. For this reason it only happens in higher gears/speeds when the boost at WOT has more time to build up to a high value. As soon as it leaks, MAF says that this air volume is incorrect - drivetrain malfunction. Replacing the manifold is a big job, so I'll just keep it under 6000 rpm for now. So when you say where the lower PCV connects to the intake manifold, are you talking about the longer PCV that comes from the bottom/side of the block and goes to the turbo intake side? I do have two broken tabs on the clip, but it still clamps and looks tight.
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| 300778 (719hp) | Hello everyone, I hope everything is fine. For sale: "Engine Encapsulation, Underrun Guard", also known as Underbody/Lower Engine Cover/Shield Part Number: 51758047450 51 75 8 047 450 51-75-8-047-450 For: 5 Series F10 (01/2009 - 06/2013) 5 Series F11 (06/2010 - 06/2013) 7 series F01 (09/2007 - 06/2012) 7 series F01 LCI (05/2011 - 05/2015) 7 series F02 (09/2007 - 06/2012) 7 series F02 LCI (06/ 2011 - 05/2015) MSRP: $210 Retail Price: $150 On Long Island for local pickup. Shipping offers on request. Thank you.
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| 31P5WTDYG/WGQ (550hp) | Hello everyone, I hope everything is fine. For sale: "Engine Encapsulation, Underrun Guard", also known as Underbody/Lower Engine Cover/Shield Part Number: 51758047450 51 75 8 047 450 51-75-8-047-450 For: 5 Series F10 (01/2009 - 06/2013) 5 Series F11 (06/2010 - 06/2013) 7 series F01 (09/2007 - 06/2012) 7 series F01 LCI (05/2011 - 05/2015) 7 series F02 (09/2007 - 06/2012) 7 series F02 LCI (06/ 2011 - 05/2015) MSRP: $210 Retail Price: $150 On Long Island for local pickup. Shipping offers on request. Thank you.
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| 080290 (955hp) | Got this error - 133E10 Valvetronic system: Disabled, setting errors too frequent. Is there a way to check if the Valvetronic servo motor really needs to be replaced??
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| polaris1 (821hp) | You can buy a new motor and connect it for testing. Simply pull out the old plug and insert the new one into your hand. The motor should move if your DME is OK. I actually have the engine for an N55 if you want to buy it from me. I bought it from a local dealer and never returned it. From my own experience, the cabling is not the problem. Either the Valvetronic motor is defective or the DME is defective. My X5 had a bad DME. It wouldn't send power to the Valvetronic motor.
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| proutprout (56hp) | Quote: Originally posted by Hoa You can buy a new motor and plug it in for testing. Simply pull out the old plug and insert the new one into your hand. The motor should move if your DME is OK. I actually have the engine for an N55 if you want to buy it from me. I bought it from a local dealer and never returned it. From my own experience, the cabling is not the problem. Either the Valvetronic motor is defective or the DME is defective. My X5 had a bad DME. It wouldn't send power to the Valvetronic motor. Thanks for the advice and offer, but I'm not in the US to buy it from you. UPDATE: I tried to reactivate ISTA's Valvetronic and it successfully relearned, but after a short drive I received code 133B04 - "Valvetronic system, no adjustment possible". Does this mean that only the Valvetronic motor is defective and not the shaft if it could be retrained? Before I buy and replace the motor I want to make sure it is the true cause of the problem as labor is not cheap. I found out from ISTA that the battery I have is 90Ah instead of 105Ah - could that be one? Cause of a problem? Presumably the Valvetronic motor is not receiving enough power? Or replacing the Valvetronic motor is the only way to check if it is faulty?
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| 30031985 (372hp) | The battery won't be the problem. Make sure you code it to 90 so it knows how to charge the battery properly. It could be that the motor is defective. You can't say for sure unless you replace it. The shaft does fail, but less than the motor. I don't know anything about the recall. You would have to ask BMW about that.
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| wendy2 (403hp) | Hi guys, I'm seeing this error in my bimemrlink app's information store, but not in the form of permanent errors. Should I be worried? Just FYI: My car's battery life is low (60%). So I plan to change the battery soon, but there is no check engine light and the car drives normally.
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| czonias1 (728hp) | If the battery were a problem you would experience a cold start servo failure, which would probably occur at around 12V. When the car is running and the battery is low, you should see the alternator turn on 14.7V. However, a defective battery will display numerous error codes that can cause problems. Finally, a 90Ah battery is fine. The 105 Ah battery should offer more reserve power between charging cycles.
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