Username: | Message: |
faulkner (636hp) | By the way, these are the F10 M5 silencers from RPI. They were easy to assemble and sound great.
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545545 (161hp) | Quote: Originally posted by Zer0Cool92 Nice, I have some RPI mufflers on my 550 with the resonator deleted. Sounds mean. Do you have any pictures of the tips from the top view? Thanks, I took a few from the top angle, let's see if I can load them
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24681357 (696hp) | Quote: Originally posted by lsturbointeg Looks bad! Can you get an audio clip, bro? Are you planning to upgrade the diffuser? Tips are huge... what size are they? I'll take care of uploading an audio clip, no problem. Yes, I'm leaning toward the OEM M5 diffuser and adding a CF insert later. The tips are 4, that's why I looked at the M5 diffuser, they fit on it without modification.
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jaylin (28hp) | Looks like mine looks like yours when I see the pipe diameter go from 3 to 2.5. Clean welding work. I can't wait to make mine!
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CM1972 (246hp) | Re: your license plate frame... Is it you sitting in the 9-5 Military????
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oliver88 (348hp) | Quote: Originally posted by ezaircon4jc Subject: Your license plate frame... Is it you who is in the 9-5 military??? Not anymore, it's been years. Old E-5
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mama1960 (452hp) | Here's the top view - the tips are intentionally a bit extended, I'm planning on an M5 diffuser or similar diffuser and when that's installed they have a lip that covers some of the tips.
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cbrown1 (917hp) | It probably would have been ideal to have the diffuser when you mounted the exhaust. This way you don't risk moving the exhaust again if you think the tips still stick out too far. That's what I plan to do. These 4 tips are
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ghjcnjkjk (571hp) | Quote: Originally posted by PJinCA Here's the top view - the tips are intentionally a bit extended, I'm planning an M5 or similar diffuser and when this is installed they have a lip that covers some of the tips. The M5 diffuser requires the left and right exhaust tips to be slightly closer together than on a normal F10. Not as extreme as the M3/M4, but also the M5, the exhaust pipes are closer to the center of the vehicle. http://f10.5post.com/forums/showthread.php?t=771326 Just compare the position of the right inner exhaust tip relative to the tow hook cover on the bumper of an M5 to a regular F10:
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candy77 (753hp) | Do you get the same thing too? When it rains or even during it rains or after a car wash, I open my trunk and all my stuff in the trunk gets wet from the water running from the trunk lid! Even if I do it slowly, I still get to my stuff a little bit. Is this just bad design? Does it happen to you too? Any solution?
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amb123 (143hp) | Yes, both I and the guy who installed it assumed that some adjustment would be required when installing the diffuser. That's okay, I'll take care of it.
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butterflie (179hp) | Definitely a bad design. Always happens. When the trunk of my automatic trunk is wet, I try to stop it just before it fully opens. After 4 years of ownership I am successful about 50% of the time. I store rags in the two places where the rain drips. My retired E60 had the same problem but no automatic trunk. The difference, however, was that the trunk went up so quickly that the rain/moisture drained away immediately.
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terence1 (631hp) | The M5 exhaust sits further in than the regular 5 Series. That's why there are differences in diffusers. Since I have the M5 DTM diffuser, I have to move my championship diffusers a little further inwards when installing the diffuser
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peddler (612hp) | Seal and wax it. After that, no more water remains on it.
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22011990 (994hp) | By the way, since this exhaust fits the 535, 550 and M5 - I spoke with RPI, they are willing to offer a 25% discount to forum members who want this exhaust. The regular price is $1,200, but everyone here gets $900. Tell them I sent you
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1december (461hp) | All my cars did this. It's pretty annoying.
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230894 (916hp) | Quote: Originally posted by lsturbointeg The M5 exhaust sits further in than the regular 5 Series. That's why there are differences in diffusers. Since I have the M5 DTM diffuser on me, I have to move my championship diffusers a little further inward when installing Diffuser That's cool, the muffler shop assumed there would be an adjustment when the diffuser arrived. He told me if it needed customization it was free
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nickel1 (130hp) | Quote: Originally posted by txoid Seal and wax it. After that, no more water remains on it. It will help, but not all the water will be completely gone...especially if it rains
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dezembro (727hp) | Quote: Originally posted by PJinCA That's cool, the muffler shop assumed there would be an adjustment when the diffuser arrived. He told me if it needed customization it was free
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Bav@Heart (480hp) | Roughly the same as above: My E60 blew up, but my F10 automatic is slow enough to run into the channels.
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shoelace (772hp) | Quote: Originally posted by PJinCA That's cool, the muffler shop assumed there would be an adjustment when the diffuser arrived. He told me if it needed to be adjusted – no fee. Since you're in SoCal, where did you do the install? I'm looking for a reputable shop myself.
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6Exe3Za97v (322hp) | Do you get the same thing too? When it rains or even during it rains or after a car wash, I open my trunk and all my stuff in the trunk gets wet from the water running from the trunk lid! Even if I do it slowly, I still get to my stuff a little bit. Is this just bad design? Does it happen to you too? Any solution?
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james2009 (750hp) | Quote: Originally posted by ndinh Since you're in SoCal, where did you do the install? I'm looking for a reputable shop myself. I had my exhaust installed at The Muffler Man in Placentia, good guy and all 5 star Yelp reviews. Also reasonable. 714-524-7818 467 Industrial Way Placentia, CA 92870
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jasmine04 (846hp) | Definitely a bad design. Always happens. When the trunk of my automatic trunk is wet, I try to stop it just before it fully opens. After 4 years of ownership I am successful about 50% of the time. I store rags in the two places where the rain drips. My retired E60 had the same problem but no automatic trunk. The difference, however, was that the trunk went up so quickly that the rain/moisture drained away immediately.
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517517 (190hp) | Pretty
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ghblehrb (283hp) | Seal and wax it. After that, no more water remains on it.
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dancer01 (241hp) | After seeing this I searched for sound clips on YouTube and it sounds great. Where did you buy it? I don't see them readily available
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gogirl1 (421hp) | All my cars did this. It's pretty annoying.
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goodpussy (761hp) | Quote: Originally posted by txoid Seal and wax it. After that, no more water remains on it. It will help, but not all the water will be completely gone...especially if it rains
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poohead1 (515hp) | Roughly the same as above: My E60 blew up, but my F10 automatic is slow enough to run into the channels.
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blue07 (70hp) | Hi guys, I have a 2015 BMW 535i with the full M Sport package. Yesterday I took it to the gas station (SHELL) and filled up the tank (USED PREMIUM 91). When I got home everything felt and sounded good. After parking in my driveway for a few hours I got in to drive somewhere and when I started the car the check engine light came on and I quickly turned it off to see if there were any visibility issues. Opened the hood, no leaks, fluids and oil were all the way up and everything looked fine. Now I was shocked and confused as the car only has 13,000,000 miles on it. When I got back I spun the car around, took a few hard pulls and everything sounded and felt good. Please help me why this might be. I think it has something to do with the fuel and gas components. Maybe you didn't tighten the cap? I don't know, please help me. Have a nice day
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251988 (530hp) | Quote: Originally posted by 535iMSPORT Hi guys, I have a 2015 Bmw 535i with the full M Sport package. Yesterday I took it to the gas station (SHELL) and filled up the tank (USED PREMIUM 91). When I got home everything felt and sounded good. After parking in my driveway for a few hours I got in to drive somewhere and when I started the car the check engine light came on and I quickly turned it off to see if there were any visibility issues. Opened the hood, no leaks, fluids and oil were all the way up and everything looked fine. Now I was shocked and confused as the car only has 13,000,000 miles on it. When I got back I spun the car around, took a few hard pulls and everything sounded and felt good. Please help me why this might be. I think it has something to do with the fuel and gas components. Maybe you didn't tighten the cap? I don't know, please help me. I wish you a nice day. Don't you have a guarantee? Just take it off and let the dealer do their job.
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6363 (49hp) | I mean the man above is right but check the gas cap, maybe you left it loose
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pulpwood (483hp) | My first thought was also the gas cap.
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maggie24 (46hp) | Since it happened shortly after filling up, it was most likely the gas cap. Just make sure you tighten it (again) and it will soon disappear. However, sometimes this is not the case, so the dealer will have to reset it for you. Even if it goes away on its own, you can see it the next time you take the car in for service. They constantly check any erroneous codes issued between visits.
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17011992 (537hp) | To reassure you: The MIL (check engine light) only relates to emissions control issues. So there is no harm in continuing to operate your car while the MIL is lit. Most likely you didn't tighten the gas cap properly. It may take several engine on/off cycles for the MIL to clear after the triggering cause has been resolved. So don't let an MIL worry you in the future and continue to use the car as usual. The only thing that hurts is your wallet (after the warranty expires, of course) and the fact that you get annoyed (we all do that). But since it is a pollution problem, you should fix it as soon as possible (out of consideration for the environment). A cheap code reader of your FLAP will tell you what caused the MIL. Good luck.
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CodeNameF10 (72hp) | Quote: Originally written by David3 For reassurance: The MIL (check engine light) only applies to emissions control issues... Good information, it contains everything that was missing in my answer.
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catwalk (638hp) | Hi guys, I have a 2015 BMW 535i with the full M Sport package. Yesterday I took it to the gas station (SHELL) and filled up the tank (USED PREMIUM 91). When I got home everything felt and sounded good. After parking in my driveway for a few hours I got in to drive somewhere and when I started the car the check engine light came on and I quickly turned it off to see if there were any visibility issues. Opened the hood, no leaks, fluids and oil were all the way up and everything looked fine. Now I was shocked and confused as the car only has 13,000,000 miles on it. When I got back I spun the car around, took a few hard pulls and everything sounded and felt good. Please help me why this might be. I think it has something to do with the fuel and gas components. Maybe you didn't tighten the cap? I don't know, please help me. Have a nice day
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bitchin1 (352hp) | Quote: Originally posted by 535iMSPORT Hi guys, I have a 2015 Bmw 535i with the full M Sport package. Yesterday I took it to the gas station (SHELL) and filled up the tank (USED PREMIUM 91). When I got home everything felt and sounded good. After parking in my driveway for a few hours I got in to drive somewhere and when I started the car the check engine light came on and I quickly turned it off to see if there were any visibility issues. Opened the hood, no leaks, fluids and oil were all the way up and everything looked fine. Now I was shocked and confused as the car only has 13,000,000 miles on it. When I got back I spun the car around, took a few hard pulls and everything sounded and felt good. Please help me why this might be. I think it has something to do with the fuel and gas components. Maybe you didn't tighten the cap? I don't know, please help me. I wish you a nice day. Don't you have a guarantee? Just take it off and let the dealer do their job.
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yankees07 (926hp) | I mean the man above is right but check the gas cap, maybe you left it loose
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221278 (789hp) | My first thought was also the gas cap.
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munson (248hp) | Since it happened shortly after filling up, it was most likely the gas cap. Just make sure you tighten it (again) and it will soon disappear. However, sometimes this is not the case, so the dealer will have to reset it for you. Even if it goes away on its own, you can see it the next time you take the car in for service. They constantly check any erroneous codes issued between visits.
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castrol (862hp) | To reassure you: The MIL (check engine light) only relates to emissions control issues. So there is no harm in continuing to operate your car while the MIL is lit. Most likely you didn't tighten the gas cap properly. It may take several engine on/off cycles for the MIL to clear after the triggering cause has been resolved. So don't let an MIL worry you in the future and continue to use the car as usual. The only thing that hurts is your wallet (after the warranty expires, of course) and the fact that you get annoyed (we all do that). But since it is a pollution problem, you should fix it as soon as possible (out of consideration for the environment). A cheap code reader of your FLAP will tell you what caused the MIL. Good luck.
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manuel22 (617hp) | Quote: Originally written by David3 For reassurance: The MIL (check engine light) only applies to emissions control issues... Good information, it contains everything that was missing in my answer.
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pawelek1 (586hp) | I purchased a black 2013 535 M Sport in Socal with 31,000 miles on the clock from a non-BMW dealer. The car still has another year of factory warranty, so it's important for me to keep track to make sure any hidden items are removed. The car's story began with Brea BMW as a two-year lease and then went from Irvine BMW to a second owner for just 1.2 years. The only Carfax item mentioned was an AC compressor replaced at 24,000 miles, otherwise the service history is just oil changes. No accidents were reported. What do I see on the car? 1. Half of the upper windshield is missing a weatherstrip and the other half appears unusually worn. Almost as if a new windshield had been installed and no one had bothered to replace the panel. The lower part of the weather strip on the windshield looks like it belongs on a ten year old car, not a three year old car. 2. The sunroof does not sit properly on the passenger side, it is a few noticeable millimeters higher than the roof line (only in one corner). 3. The wrap around the rear left side of the steering wheel (behind the cruise control buttons) has a small tab that sticks out and is not flush, almost as if someone pulled it off at some point. 4. When starting the car, the computer will display “Next service in 1/2000” on the dashboard. I was wondering what on earth would cause the car to say the year 2000? Is this an indication that someone messed with the car's coding? 5. Start/Stop button completely worn out. The previous owner of the vehicle was named Zachery Camp (Kamp?), he may even be on these boards, if so I would appreciate some information about this car. -Gabor
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falcons2 (106hp) | So you bought a car without inspecting it and it's not from a BMW dealer, that's the first red flag!
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saunders1 (122hp) | Quote: Originally posted by lsturbointeg So you bought a car without inspecting it and it's not from a BMW dealer, that's the first red flag! +1 You should have seen all of this before you bought it. I personally don't need one because I know what to look for under the hood, but I know a lot of people who would never buy a used car without PPI
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900900 (852hp) | Quote: Originally posted by mdriver2 I purchased a black 2013 535 M Sport in Socal with 31,000 miles on the clock from a non-BMW dealer. Brave man, good luck. None of this except maybe the sunroof would be covered under warranty, it appears someone didn't treat the car properly. Uncool of you and whoever gave you the info to post the previous owner's name in a public forum, just my opinion.
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lynn1234 (525hp) | Thanks for sharing your concern, folks. I'm just trying to summarize the history of the car. I really want to make sure the factory warranty is being put to good use. -Gabor
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21111988 (518hp) | But you should have examined the car with a fine-tooth comb. Go ahead and do the best you can if it is.
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dark (373hp) | Read this thread for service issue 1/2000. I don't know the resolution, I've just seen the thread constantly. http://www.bimmerfest.com/forums/sho...d.php?t=678703
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meduza (120hp) | Great information, thanks for the link. -G
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puppy6 (926hp) | Update: The car went to the dealer overnight for warranty work to replace the start/up button, do a software update, code a second key, and adjust the sunroof (not perfectly level). I had the car inspected and specifically expressed my concerns about a previous accident. They concluded that the problems I was seeing were due to sun damage, most likely caused by long periods of outdoor parking. No sign of accidents. -G
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hocuspocus (291hp) | Quote: Originally posted by mdriver2 Update: The car went to the dealer overnight for warranty work to replace the start/top button, do a software update, code a second key, and adjust the sunroof (not perfectly level). How long was your car at the dealer for the software update? Only 1 night?
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libera (542hp) | LOL, I thought the car was parked outside too. The SUN can destroy the window rubber pretty quickly - this was a fairly common problem with the E60. As for the rest? The BMW dealer seems to have handled it well enough. I also bought my car from a non-BMW dealer, however my car is a first owner car and the dealer I bought it from is a sister dealer of the BMW dealer that originally sold it (Shelly BMW). When I got the car I also got an extended warranty. This time I decided against CPO as I learned the hard way with my E60 that the CPO warranty does NOT cover electronics, which sucked when my sat nav/IDrive broke. They quoted me $2,800 for the replacement and another $1,400 for the TCU (Bluetooth module) replacement - neither of which were covered by CPO.
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princess23 (828hp) | You lost me on the weatherproofing issue. My 14 has no visible weather protection. There is some sort of seal that the windshield sits on, but the top has a channel between the top of the glass and the body of the car. It looks like all 5 on the property I noticed. There are two rubber strips embedded in the A-pillars, which is the half that is missing :
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andrejka (853hp) | Quote: Originally written by wrickem You lost me on the weather protection issue. My 14 has no visible weather protection. There is some sort of seal that the windshield sits on, but the top has a channel between the top of the glass and the body of the car. It looks like all 5 on the property I noticed. There are two rubber strips embedded in the A-pillars. Missing half here: As I see in your photo, I have a rubber seal over the windshield and I don't see it in your photo.
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hiphop5 (116hp) | Quote: Originally posted by mdriver2 Referring to your photo, I have a rubber seal over the windshield and cannot see it in your photo. My '12 doesn't have a weatherstrip at the top of the windshield either... Same as Wrickem.
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marlowe (137hp) | Damn, you're going to make us run to the workshop and take a look
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love2003 (635hp) | Quote: Originally posted by mdriver2 Referring to your photo, I have a rubber seal over the windshield and cannot see it in your photo. Your windshield must have been replaced, and not very well. My '13 looks exactly like the '14 posted - no obvious weatherstripping at the top of the windshield. If you look closely, there is a strip of rubber deep in the channel between the windshield and the roof. If you have a stripe that extends past the roofline, I would ask the dealer about it. Surely they have a pre-LCI car in the parking lot for reference.
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197346825 (303hp) | The dealer called and confirmed exactly this assessment. The windshield had actually been replaced. Although the windshield is fine, they will be replaced under warranty with new BMW glass as well as the lower and upper fairings. Quote: Originally written by PJinCA. Your windshield must have been replaced, and not very well. My '13 looks exactly like the '14 posted - no obvious weatherstripping at the top of the windshield. If you look closely, there is a strip of rubber deep in the channel between the windshield and the roof. If you have a stripe that extends past the roofline, I would ask the dealer about it. Surely they have a pre-LCI car in the parking lot for reference.
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26101989 (883hp) | Quote: Originally posted by mdriver2 The dealer called and confirmed exactly this assessment. The windshield had actually been replaced. Although the windshield is fine, they will be replaced under warranty with new BMW glass as well as the lower and upper fairings. Heck, you should bring your SA a dinner gift card or his favorite bottle. I do that when my SA takes good care of me. This dealer has really stepped up.
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tyrell1 (952hp) | It's cool that the dealer replaces the windshield, but why would they do that??
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123456789zz (644hp) | I had to go outside and look at mine and just like others have mentioned, the gasket is missing
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131177 (1hp) | I just picked up the car after being away for a week. The windshield was replaced, as were the rubber strips at the top and bottom of the rubber trim. It was covered under warranty. They didn't have to do it, but I'm very grateful to the dealer for their efforts.
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james23 (945hp) | I'm glad it worked for you! If you'd like, post a picture of the top weather strip. I'm curious to see what it would look like
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135789 (643hp) | I purchased a black 2013 535 M Sport in Socal with 31,000 miles on the clock from a non-BMW dealer. The car still has another year of factory warranty, so it's important for me to keep track to make sure any hidden items are removed. The car's story began with Brea BMW as a two-year lease and then went from Irvine BMW to a second owner for just 1.2 years. The only Carfax item mentioned was an AC compressor replaced at 24,000 miles, otherwise the service history is just oil changes. No accidents were reported. What do I see on the car? 1. Half of the upper windshield is missing a weatherstrip and the other half appears unusually worn. Almost as if a new windshield had been installed and no one had bothered to replace the panel. The lower part of the weather strip on the windshield looks like it belongs on a ten year old car, not a three year old car. 2. The sunroof does not sit properly on the passenger side, it is a few noticeable millimeters higher than the roof line (only in one corner). 3. The wrap around the rear left side of the steering wheel (behind the cruise control buttons) has a small tab that sticks out and is not flush, almost as if someone pulled it off at some point. 4. When starting the car, the computer will display “Next service in 1/2000” on the dashboard. I was wondering what on earth would cause the car to say the year 2000? Is this an indication that someone messed with the car's coding? 5. Start/Stop button completely worn out. The previous owner of the vehicle was named Zachery Camp (Kamp?), he may even be on these boards, if so I would appreciate some information about this car. -Gabor
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jerrey232x (715hp) | So you bought a car without inspecting it and it's not from a BMW dealer, that's the first red flag!
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rogerbmw (277hp) | Quote: Originally posted by lsturbointeg So you bought a car without inspecting it and it's not from a BMW dealer, that's the first red flag! +1 You should have seen all of this before you bought it. I personally don't need one because I know what to look for under the hood, but I know a lot of people who would never buy a used car without PPI
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simon530d GT (280hp) | Quote: Originally posted by mdriver2 I purchased a black 2013 535 M Sport in Socal with 31,000 miles on the clock from a non-BMW dealer. Brave man, good luck. None of this except maybe the sunroof would be covered under warranty, it appears someone didn't treat the car properly. Uncool of you and whoever gave you the info to post the previous owner's name in a public forum, just my opinion.
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hayward (724hp) | Thanks for sharing your concern, folks. I'm just trying to summarize the history of the car. I really want to make sure the factory warranty is being put to good use. -Gabor
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hottie25 (923hp) | But you should have examined the car with a fine-tooth comb. Go ahead and do the best you can if it is.
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cortney1 (339hp) | Read this thread for service issue 1/2000. I don't know the resolution, I've just seen the thread constantly. http://www.bimmerfest.com/forums/sho...d.php?t=678703
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RichardStevens (128hp) | Great information, thanks for the link. -G
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darling123 (750hp) | Update: The car went to the dealer overnight for warranty work to replace the start/up button, do a software update, code a second key, and adjust the sunroof (not perfectly level). I had the car inspected and specifically expressed my concerns about a previous accident. They concluded that the problems I was seeing were due to sun damage, most likely caused by long periods of outdoor parking. No sign of accidents. -G
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10061979 (539hp) | Quote: Originally posted by mdriver2 Update: The car went to the dealer overnight for warranty work to replace the start/top button, do a software update, code a second key, and adjust the sunroof (not perfectly level). How long was your car at the dealer for the software update? Only 1 night?
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08011985 (444hp) | LOL, I thought the car was parked outside too. The SUN can destroy the window rubber pretty quickly - this was a fairly common problem with the E60. As for the rest? The BMW dealer seems to have handled it well enough. I also bought my car from a non-BMW dealer, however my car is a first owner car and the dealer I bought it from is a sister dealer of the BMW dealer that originally sold it (Shelly BMW). When I got the car I also got an extended warranty. This time I decided against CPO as I learned the hard way with my E60 that the CPO warranty does NOT cover electronics, which sucked when my sat nav/IDrive broke. They quoted me $2,800 for the replacement and another $1,400 for the TCU (Bluetooth module) replacement - neither of which were covered by CPO.
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honeydip1 (354hp) | You lost me on the weatherproofing issue. My 14 has no visible weather protection. There is some sort of seal that the windshield sits on, but the top has a channel between the top of the glass and the body of the car. It looks like all 5 on the property I noticed. There are two rubber strips embedded in the A-pillars, which is the half that is missing :
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doggies2 (128hp) | Quote: Originally written by wrickem You lost me on the weather protection issue. My 14 has no visible weather protection. There is some sort of seal that the windshield sits on, but the top has a channel between the top of the glass and the body of the car. It looks like all 5 on the property I noticed. There are two rubber strips embedded in the A-pillars. Missing half here: As I see in your photo, I have a rubber seal over the windshield and I don't see it in your photo.
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loveme1234 (929hp) | Quote: Originally posted by mdriver2 Referring to your photo, I have a rubber seal over the windshield and cannot see it in your photo. My '12 doesn't have a weatherstrip at the top of the windshield either... Same as Wrickem.
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baron1 (295hp) | Damn, you're going to make us run to the workshop and take a look
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ginger14 (883hp) | Quote: Originally posted by mdriver2 Referring to your photo, I have a rubber seal over the windshield and cannot see it in your photo. Your windshield must have been replaced, and not very well. My '13 looks exactly like the '14 posted - no obvious weatherstripping at the top of the windshield. If you look closely, there is a strip of rubber deep in the channel between the windshield and the roof. If you have a stripe that extends past the roofline, I would ask the dealer about it. Surely they have a pre-LCI car in the parking lot for reference.
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110102 (134hp) | The dealer called and confirmed exactly this assessment. The windshield had actually been replaced. Although the windshield is fine, they will be replaced under warranty with new BMW glass as well as the lower and upper fairings. Quote: Originally written by PJinCA. Your windshield must have been replaced, and not very well. My '13 looks exactly like the '14 posted - no obvious weatherstripping at the top of the windshield. If you look closely, there is a strip of rubber deep in the channel between the windshield and the roof. If you have a stripe that extends past the roofline, I would ask the dealer about it. Surely they have a pre-LCI car in the parking lot for reference.
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110220 (664hp) | Quote: Originally posted by mdriver2 The dealer called and confirmed exactly this assessment. The windshield had actually been replaced. Although the windshield is fine, they will be replaced under warranty with new BMW glass as well as the lower and upper fairings. Heck, you should bring your SA a dinner gift card or his favorite bottle. I do that when my SA takes good care of me. This dealer has really stepped up.
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hamsters1 (300hp) | It's cool that the dealer replaces the windshield, but why would they do that??
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speakers1 (246hp) | I had to go outside and look at mine and just like others have mentioned, the gasket is missing
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Fuman (57hp) | I just picked up the car after being away for a week. The windshield was replaced, as were the rubber strips at the top and bottom of the rubber trim. It was covered under warranty. They didn't have to do it, but I'm very grateful to the dealer for their efforts.
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56 (36hp) | I'm glad it worked for you! If you'd like, post a picture of the top weather strip. I'm curious to see what it would look like
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danny20 (906hp) | I actually have a 640i but the forum isn't very active so I thought I'd ask here. I hear a very high pitched noise (~10,000 Hz) when accelerating when the throttle opening is 70% or more and only between 4,000 and 5,000 rpm. The noise builds up in this speed range and then disappears. The diagnostics show no error codes, there is no loss of performance or anything else. The car is under warranty, but the dealer is at a loss and doesn't know anything about it or is hesitant to fix the problems because there are no problems other than the noise. Any idea/direction?
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kos (271hp) | What if the car is stationary? Do you still hear that in the same speed range? I have, well, not a high pitch, but a certain humming noise coming from my engine at 2600-2800 RPM, both when accelerating, cruising, and stationary. Unfortunately, this RPM range is near highway cruising speed , and although it's not very loud, I don't think it should be there at all. The trader can hear it but doesn't know what to do until it gets louder. So I'm excited to see what you find.
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ah gon (787hp) | Yesterday after installing my jb4 and doing some hard driving I heard a buzzing noise on the right side of the engine where the turbo is located. I reached out to n54tech for help and a member said it was my boost solenoid that had broken or was starting to break. Watch the video in the link to see if that is the sound you are hearing. http://www.n54tech.com/forums/showthread.php?t=39294
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rfn (950hp) | Quote: Originally posted by tomyang I heard a buzzing noise on the right side of the engine where the turbo is yesterday after installing my JB4 and doing some hard driving. I reached out to n54tech for help and a member said it was my boost solenoid that had broken or was starting to break. Watch the video in the link to see if that is the sound you are hearing. http://www.n54tech.com/forums/showthread.php?t=39294 No, nothing like that. According to my first post, I had a very high-pitched noise that was audible in the cabin. I dropped my car off for some other work today and out of sheer frustration at not knowing where to start, I asked to check the boost lines and boost solenoid.
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fkg7h4f3v6 (857hp) | No issues were noted with the boost solenoid or boost lines (i.e. no boost leaks). It looks like they'll be changing the turbo next, but I need the car today so I'll make a plan for that later.
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j55555 (908hp) | Every update I have to get something similar fixed
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215487 (868hp) | Quote: Originally posted by kckc1016 With every update to this I have to fix something similar. No. They didn't change the turbo, I could maybe push for that, but speaking to the master technician I really don't think that's the problem. I'm pretty stumped at the moment.
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katkat (161hp) | Can you record it and show us?
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texas23 (337hp) | Serpentinengürtel?
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15041990 (253hp) | I am experiencing the same buzzing noise as in this video below.
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ilove24 (661hp) | Found it! Any 535i owner who is out of warranty and experiences the same humming noise as in the video will need to replace part number 11747626351. Note that this only applies to PWG vehicles.
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timtam (627hp) | I actually have a 640i but the forum isn't very active so I thought I'd ask here. I hear a very high pitched noise (~10,000 Hz) when accelerating when the throttle opening is 70% or more and only between 4,000 and 5,000 rpm. The noise builds up in this speed range and then disappears. The diagnostics show no error codes, there is no loss of performance or anything else. The car is under warranty, but the dealer is at a loss and doesn't know anything about it or is hesitant to fix the problems because there are no problems other than the noise. Any idea/direction?
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1compaq (714hp) | What if the car is stationary? Do you still hear that in the same speed range? I have, well, not a high pitch, but a certain humming noise coming from my engine at 2600-2800 RPM, both when accelerating, cruising, and stationary. Unfortunately, this RPM range is near highway cruising speeds , and although it's not very loud, I don't think it should be there at all. The trader can hear it but doesn't know what to do until it gets louder. So I'm excited to see what you find.
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dominic7 (599hp) | Yesterday after installing my jb4 and doing some hard driving I heard a buzzing noise on the right side of the engine where the turbo is located. I reached out to n54tech for help and a member said it was my boost solenoid that had broken or started breaking. Watch the video in the link to see if that is the sound you are hearing. http://www.n54tech.com/forums/showthread.php?t=39294
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eagles69 (537hp) | Quote: Originally posted by tomyang I heard a buzzing noise on the right side of the engine where the turbo is yesterday after installing my JB4 and doing some hard driving. I reached out to n54tech for help and a member said it was my boost solenoid that had broken or was starting to break. Watch the video in the link to see if that is the sound you are hearing. http://www.n54tech.com/forums/showthread.php?t=39294 No, nothing like that. According to my first post, I had a very high-pitched noise that was audible in the cabin. I dropped my car off for some other work today and out of sheer frustration at not knowing where to start, I asked to check the boost lines and boost solenoid.
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jennifer16 (680hp) | No issues were noted with the boost solenoid or boost lines (i.e. no boost leaks). It looks like they'll be changing the turbo next, but I need the car today so I'll make a plan for that later.
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iloilo (664hp) | Every update I have to get something similar fixed
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gfhjkmrf (564hp) | Quote: Originally posted by kckc1016 With every update to this I have to fix something similar. No. They didn't change the turbo, I could maybe push for that, but speaking to the master technician I really don't think that's the problem. I'm pretty stumped at the moment.
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1x2x3x (492hp) | Can you record it and show us?
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yfcmrf (81hp) | Serpentinengürtel?
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12111984 (226hp) | I am experiencing the same buzzing noise as in this video below.
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peanut8 (43hp) | Found it! Any 535i owner who is out of warranty and experiences the same humming noise as in the video will need to replace part number 11747626351. Note that this only applies to PWG vehicles.
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RadekG_CZ (338hp) | What would be the best cat-back setup if I want to try not modifying/trimming the stock M Sport rear diffuser? I try not to spend more than 1200-1500. Thanks.
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genocide (655hp) | I can't comment directly on the 535i, but in the 335i forum the BMW PE is a preferred system. Here's this for the 535i. I just bought a used 335i for half retail in great condition but haven't installed it yet. https://www.turnermotorsport.com/p-1...j8QaAtIN8P8HAQ The used Dinan was also on my wish list. If I buy a 535i it will definitely be one of these two systems. Frosted
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gady123 (205hp) | Quote: Originally written by SchillerM. I can't comment directly on the 535i, but in the 335i forum the BMW PE is a preferred system. Here's this for the 535i. I just bought a used 335i for half retail in great condition but haven't installed it yet. https://www.turnermotorsport.com/p-1...j8QaAtIN8P8HAQ The used Dinan was also on my wish list. If I buy a 535i it will definitely be one of these two systems. Matt, yes, I'm leaning towards MPE. I want something with a decent sound, but not extremely loud and distracting.
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grenada (971hp) | I was thinking about getting the Armytrix. It looks like a killer package
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heaven08 (679hp) | Quote: Originally posted by sanimc I was thinking about getting the Armytrix. It looks like a killer package. I just saw a few videos of the setup, looks decent. Do you know how much they cost???
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roberta (456hp) | Quote: Originally posted by armanm Quote: Originally posted by sanimc I was thinking about getting the Armytrix. It looks like a killer package. I just saw a few videos of the setup, looks decent. Do you know how much they cost? They cost approximately 2,5.000
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hard (431hp) | I am very happy with my MPE, but it is not a catback system. They are just silencers (axleback).).
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fcinter (965hp) | I chose the Remus axle back and am very happy with it.
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fallenange (745hp) | What would be the best cat-back setup if I want to try not modifying/trimming the stock M Sport rear diffuser? I try not to spend more than 1200-1500. Thanks.
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annika1 (308hp) | I can't comment directly on the 535i, but in the 335i forum the BMW PE is a preferred system. Here's this for the 535i. I just bought a used 335i for half retail in great condition but haven't installed it yet. https://www.turnermotorsport.com/p-1...j8QaAtIN8P8HAQ The used Dinan was also on my wish list. If I buy a 535i it will definitely be one of these two systems. Frosted
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