| Username: | Message: |
|---|
| george15 (571hp) | At least the 2014 F10 in North America was LCI, so the 2015 version probably fits. They may be unsure about the 2014 due to the transition, as many automakers make changes during such transitions.
|
| njkmrjz (688hp) | KTM, nice! I have a BMW G450X and have been considering the same thing regarding the tow bar but think I will get a dump truck instead, no towing on the go but can tow the car carrier if needed without having to rent a truck. I just looked at Uhauls for sure and they use a Curt hitch. On Curt's website, 2011-2016 use the same part number. Curt #11381.
|
| hihihi12 (503hp) | My 2014 535i 6mt has a rumbling drivetrain vibration when I just step on the gas. I have already replaced the Guibo, CSB and differential gear oil but the rumbling still persists. The next step is to replace the entire driveshaft assembly. Where can I get one? The OE BMW costs almost $1,400 TIA
|
| 3005 (578hp) | How did you determine this was related to the driveshaft? Have you looked at the many bushings on the rear end which could also cause a “rumble” in the rear end??
|
| nokia1600 (77hp) | I haven't checked the other sockets. Honestly, I haven't found a shop in the Northeast that took the time to check all the bushings and bearings. Any recommendations on how I can do it myself?
|
| politics (507hp) | Rumbling noises when accelerating usually indicate problems with the drivetrain, not bushings.
|
| NickyC (213hp) | Quote: Originally posted by Kyngofpop Rumbling when accelerating usually indicates problems with the drivetrain, not bushings. You are absolutely right, it may also be related to a bushing used to mount the differential and less likely the rear suspension. I was wondering how he determined it was the driveshaft. The driveshaft is usually not replaced unless it has been damaged in some way (due to an impact). CSB/Guibo can be wearing parts. I will visually inspect your rear end for anything unusual, damage to the driveshaft, axles, differential bushings, differential bearings, etc...
|
| ghjrehjh (982hp) | I'm not sure if this is related, but I would have to resort to one of the recalls my BMW had earlier in the year, but it had to do with possible vibration in the drivetrain. In order to access the component to be replaced, the exhaust had to be completely removed. I'll see if I can figure out what that was
|
| bunnys1 (460hp) | So after a very reputable workshop carried out a thorough test drive on the road and with a lift, the real cause is a defective differential. Where do you get a differential for a 2014 535 6mt? I think used should be fine. The BMW OE part costs almost 3.000.
|
| sliver1 (610hp) | Quote: Originally written by strongislemax So after a very reputable repair shop conducted a thorough test drive on the road and on a lift... the real cause is a faulty differential. Where do you get a differential for a 2014 535 6mt? I think used should be fine. The BMW OE part costs almost 3,000. How many miles? I'm starting to see a lot of data points disappear for F10 differentials. It's starting to scare me a little...
|
| coffee01 (757hp) | only 65,000! The differential for the 535 6MT is 3.23 versus 3.08 for the automatic transmission. The 3.23 is an interchange part with the 528 4 cylinder car. maybe it's weaker than that 3.08
|
| gfkmvf (319hp) | Quote: Originally posted by strongislemax only 65k! The differential for the 535 6MT is 3.23 versus 3.08 for the automatic transmission. The 3.23 is an interchange part with the 528 4 cylinder car. Maybe it's weaker than 3.08. Would be a good time to switch to a real LSD. http://diffsonline.com/bmw-f10-535i-...l#.W9ovqntKhhF Lots of options, give them a call and they can get you a great differential at a lower price than OEM.
|
| lakers10 (454hp) | My 2014 535i 6mt has a rumbling drivetrain vibration when I just step on the gas. I have already replaced the Guibo, CSB and differential gear oil but the rumbling still persists. The next step is to replace the entire driveshaft assembly. Where can I get one? The OE BMW costs almost $1,400 TIA
|
| hellfire (583hp) | How did you determine this was related to the driveshaft? Have you looked at the many bushings on the rear end which could also cause a “rumble” in the rear end??
|
| annarella (65hp) | I haven't checked the other sockets. Honestly, I haven't found a shop in the Northeast that took the time to check all the bushings and bearings. Any recommendations on how I can do it myself?
|
| amour1 (312hp) | Rumbling noises when accelerating usually indicate problems with the drivetrain, not bushings.
|
| were123 (521hp) | Quote: Originally posted by Kyngofpop Rumbling when accelerating usually indicates problems with the drivetrain, not bushings. You are absolutely right, it may also be related to a bushing used to mount the differential and less likely the rear suspension. I was wondering how he determined it was the driveshaft. The driveshaft is usually not replaced unless it has been damaged in some way (due to an impact). CSB/Guibo can be wearing parts. I will visually inspect your rear end for anything unusual, damage to the driveshaft, axles, differential bushings, differential bearings, etc...
|
| sweetlady (713hp) | I'm not sure if this is related, but I would have to resort to one of the recalls my BMW had earlier in the year, but it had to do with possible vibration in the drivetrain. In order to access the component to be replaced, the exhaust had to be completely removed. I'll see if I can figure out what that was
|
| anjelika (925hp) | So after a very reputable workshop carried out a thorough test drive on the road and with a lift, the real cause is a defective differential. Where do you get a differential for a 2014 535 6mt? I think used should be fine. The BMW OE part costs almost 3.000.
|
| ariaan (835hp) | Quote: Originally written by strongislemax So after a very reputable repair shop conducted a thorough test drive on the road and on a lift... the real cause is a faulty differential. Where do you get a differential for a 2014 535 6mt? I think used should be fine. The BMW OE part costs almost 3,000. How many miles? I'm starting to see a lot of data points disappear for F10 differentials. It's starting to scare me a little...
|
| munkey (442hp) | only 65,000! The differential for the 535 6MT is 3.23 versus 3.08 for the automatic transmission. The 3.23 is an interchange part with the 528 4 cylinder car. maybe it's weaker than that 3.08
|
| austin16 (263hp) | Quote: Originally posted by strongislemax only 65k! The differential for the 535 6MT is 3.23 versus 3.08 for the automatic transmission. The 3.23 is an interchange part with the 528 4 cylinder car. Maybe it's weaker than 3.08. Would be a good time to switch to a real LSD. http://diffsonline.com/bmw-f10-535i-...l#.W9ovqntKhhF Lots of options, give them a call and they can get you a great differential at a lower price than OEM.
|
| sharkey (589hp) | I was looking for instructions on how to change the spark plugs on my 2013 535i. Is there a DIY for changing the plug? The problem I see with the 535i is getting to connectors 5 and 6 and removing the large plastic hose that runs down the right side of the engine and blocks access to connectors 5 and 6. There is also a small hose that runs across the engine that will get in the way. I tried squeezing the connector to remove it but it wouldn't release. Is it a push and pull or push and twist? I'm happy to discuss any heads-up issues I might encounter.
|
| tuita (908hp) | Quote: Originally posted by hawkjr1 I was looking for instructions on changing the spark plugs on my 2013 535i. Is there a DIY for changing the plug? The problem I see with the 535i is getting to connectors 5 and 6 and removing the large plastic hose that runs down the right side of the engine and blocks access to connectors 5 and 6. There is also a small hose that runs across the engine that will get in the way. I tried squeezing the connector to remove it but it wouldn't release. Is it a push and pull or push and twist? I'm happy to discuss any heads-up issues I might encounter. https://www.newtis.info/tisv2/a/en/f...-coil/BA1UF1xL
|
| 300884 (833hp) | Huh...tried to find a YouTube video for you but only found one for the 550i and for the N55 335i but nothing for the F10? I'm sure it's still similar to the N55 335i
|
| 311079 (574hp) | There are some problems separating these two ports. In the picture above I see three clips. Is there another one downstairs? Do you just pull it apart once the connecting clips are released? In the picture below, the connector is round and the release clip has grooves on opposite sides. I squeezed it and tried to pull it up, but it wouldn't come off. I didn't force it because I didn't want to break it. Can anyone advise me how these come apart? I'm trying to remove these parts to get the side plastic tube/tube out of the way and replace the plugs. Thanks.
|
| shorty12 (443hp) | You have the right procedure. You may need to twist CAREFULLY when pulling. There's a YouTuber called ShoplifeTV or something like that. He basically specializes in BMWs and I've seen one or three of them remove these types of connectors. He also says that you can contact him if you have any questions. Worth a try...
|
| 1jeremy (733hp) | Top image, yes, there is also a fourth tab at the bottom. Be careful because they like the break. Bottom image: Pinch the two knurled sides together and pull them up. No twisting as mentioned above. And once these are removed, the real fun begins.
|
| seank (499hp) | When I changed my plugs, I simply removed the Torx screws in the first photo. Like yours, it was a bit of a challenge to remove it with the clips. You get access by just removing the screws.
|
| junior69 (899hp) | Quote: Originally posted by ezaircon4jc You have the correct procedure. You may need to twist CAREFULLY when pulling. There's a YouTuber called ShoplifeTV or something like that. He actually specializes in BMWs and I've seen him remove these types of connectors a time or three. He also says that you can contact him if you have any questions. Worth a try... I keep an eye on him when he posts, a very reliable source of BMW information.
|
| jay12345 (466hp) | Quote: Originally posted by BurrNinja. I watch him constantly when he posts, a very reliable source of information for BMW. For a man who is barely an adult (I think he's around 21), he has a lot of knowledge and experience! And having a girlfriend to help him work on the cars in his workshop...PRICELESS!!!!! They traded in an LS3 for their 3 Series!
|
| 123456** (469hp) | Quote: Originally posted by ezaircon4jc Quote: Originally posted by BurrNinja I watch him constantly when he posts, a very reliable source of BMW information. For a man who is barely an adult (I think he's around 21), he has a lot of knowledge and experience! And having a girlfriend to help him work on the cars in his workshop...PRICELESS!!!!! They swapped an LS1 for their 3 Series! Yes, I looked at how BMWselena set the whole thing up. Pretty nice to get a broken Camaro just because of the engine.
|
| DARE U (660hp) | Quote: Originally posted by hawkjr1 I'm having some trouble separating these two ports. In the picture above I see three clips. Is there another one downstairs? Do you just pull it apart once the connecting clips are released? In the picture below, the connector is round and the release clip has grooves on opposite sides. I squeezed it and tried to pull it up, but it wouldn't come off. I didn't force it because I didn't want to break it. Can anyone advise me how these come apart? I'm trying to remove these parts to get the side plastic tube/tube out of the way and replace the plugs. Thanks. Attachment 1926062 Attachment 1926063 You don't need to disconnect the hose at all. I've changed the spark plugs on my son's 335i and my own 535i with the N55 engine and have never had to disconnect that hose, at least not to replace the spark plugs (10 cent coin) on each of the tabs on the hose and pull it back, done!
|
| yana.kolomoets (73hp) | I was looking for instructions on how to change the spark plugs on my 2013 535i. Is there a DIY for changing the plug? The problem I see with the 535i is getting to connectors 5 and 6 and removing the large plastic hose that runs down the right side of the engine and blocks access to connectors 5 and 6. There is also a small hose that runs across the engine that will get in the way. I tried squeezing the connector to remove it but it wouldn't release. Is it a push and pull or push and twist? I'm happy to discuss any heads-up issues I might encounter.
|
| 22051992 (403hp) | Quote: Originally posted by hawkjr1 I was looking for instructions on changing the spark plugs on my 2013 535i. Is there a DIY for changing the plug? The problem I see with the 535i is getting to connectors 5 and 6 and removing the large plastic hose that runs down the right side of the engine and blocks access to connectors 5 and 6. There is also a small hose that runs across the engine that will get in the way. I tried squeezing the connector to remove it but it wouldn't release. Is it a push and pull or push and twist? I'm happy to discuss any heads-up issues I might encounter. https://www.newtis.info/tisv2/a/en/f...-coil/BA1UF1xL
|
| 148814 (23hp) | Huh...tried to find a YouTube video for you but only found one for the 550i and for the N55 335i but nothing for the F10? I'm sure it's still similar to the N55 335i
|
| rposluszny (713hp) | There are some problems separating these two ports. In the picture above I see three clips. Is there another one downstairs? Do you just pull it apart once the connecting clips are released? In the picture below, the connector is round and the release clip has grooves on opposite sides. I squeezed it and tried to pull it up, but it wouldn't come off. I didn't force it because I didn't want to break it. Can anyone advise me how these come apart? I'm trying to remove these parts to get the side plastic tube/tube out of the way and replace the plugs. Thanks.
|
| krakow (329hp) | You have the right procedure. You may need to twist CAREFULLY when pulling. There's a YouTuber called ShoplifeTV or something like that. He basically specializes in BMWs and I've seen one or three of them remove these types of connectors. He also says that you can contact him if you have any questions. Worth a try...
|
| 727727 (583hp) | Top image, yes, there is also a fourth tab at the bottom. Be careful because they like the break. Bottom image: Pinch the two knurled sides together and pull them up. No twisting as mentioned above. And once these are removed, the real fun begins.
|
| details (784hp) | When I changed my plugs, I simply removed the Torx screws in the first photo. Like yours, it was a bit of a challenge to remove it with the clips. You get access by just removing the screws.
|
| welcome0 (94hp) | Quote: Originally posted by ezaircon4jc You have the correct procedure. You may need to twist CAREFULLY when pulling. There's a YouTuber called ShoplifeTV or something like that. He actually specializes in BMWs and I've seen him remove these types of connectors a time or three. He also says that you can contact him if you have any questions. Worth a try... I keep an eye on him when he posts, a very reliable source of BMW information.
|
| ktm450 (101hp) | Quote: Originally posted by BurrNinja. I watch him constantly when he posts, a very reliable source of information for BMW. For a man who is barely an adult (I think he's around 21), he has a lot of knowledge and experience! And having a girlfriend to help him work on the cars in his workshop...PRICELESS!!!!! They traded in an LS3 for their 3 Series!
|
| 161282 (534hp) | Quote: Originally posted by ezaircon4jc Quote: Originally posted by BurrNinja I watch him constantly when he posts, a very reliable source of BMW information. For a man who is barely an adult (I think he's around 21), he has a lot of knowledge and experience! And having a girlfriend to help him work on the cars in his workshop...PRICELESS!!!!! They swapped an LS1 for their 3 Series! Yes, I looked at how BMWselena set the whole thing up. Pretty nice to get a broken Camaro just because of the engine.
|
| 01091987 (780hp) | The manual F10 has a cup holder in a somewhat unusual location, right between the iDrive controls and the storage compartment between the front seats. It also features a small clip that pops out to hold the cup securely in place. A bit awkward design and a bit cheap looking for this type of car, but it is what it is. Let's say a person has a teenage daughter (um...asking for a friend here...maybe) who doesn't follow directions well, and she puts her iced tea (mostly sugar, as we all know) in this Holder. but he is unable to lift the small clip to secure the cup. So the cup randomly moved forward, spilling some (not much) of its contents all over the iDrive controls and parking sensor switch (fortunately not the handbrake or DHP switch). Initial reaction aside, fast forward past the shock and anger...lol and I'm now...I mean...a friend of mine is looking for ideas on how to clean the bottom of these buttons. They are now a bit sticky at the bottom, ready to use but sticky. I can't think of any other way than replacing the whole thing, but I thought I'd make it available for those of you with more experience?
|
| zaza123 (293hp) | Quote: Originally posted by hawkjr1 I'm having some trouble separating these two ports. In the picture above I see three clips. Is there another one downstairs? Do you just pull it apart once the connecting clips are released? In the picture below, the connector is round and the release clip has grooves on opposite sides. I squeezed it and tried to pull it up, but it wouldn't come off. I didn't force it because I didn't want to break it. Can anyone advise me how these come apart? I'm trying to remove these parts to get the side plastic tube/tube out of the way and replace the plugs. Thanks. Attachment 1926062 Attachment 1926063 You don't need to disconnect the hose at all. I've changed the spark plugs on my son's 335i and my own 535i with the N55 engine and have never had to disconnect that hose, at least not to replace the spark plugs (10 cent coin) on each of the tabs on the hose and pull it back, done!
|
| 301084 (41hp) | I think your friend's teenage daughter needs to either be put in jail or possibly shot at dawn!!!!! I would take off the console top and remove the iDrive controller and switch panel. Then I would spray some electrical contact cleaner on the sugary parts. Electric cleaners should also be safe for plastics. You could also try IPA, I would get as close to 100% as possible. My once-teenage daughter (now 28) is getting married in June. I will miss her!! Back when we bought a brand new 1996 Mercury Sable. The salesman had plied our children with lemonade and my daughter chose orange. After hours of negotiating (pre-internet) and running around with the kids, it was finally time for us to head home in our new car. I strapped my almost 6 year old daughter into her booster seat and she puked all over her clothes, the booster seat, and the fabric part of the back seat (it was a fabric/leather combination). What could I do?? She is my little girl!
|
| 1marley (636hp) | How do you keep your composure? As ezaircon4jc said, I would remove the center console and clean it before it causes problems later and the friend is no longer allowed in the car
|
| ernie (742hp) | I joked about asking for a girlfriend and yes, the initial reaction was a bit annoyed, but the bottom line is I like her more than the car, she... happens, what can you do? I might have threatened to have her cover the cost of the new iDrive controls, but at the end of the day it was an accident, as careless as teenagers can be, these things happen. Good idea about the electrical contact cleaner, thanks, although I'm not looking forward to taking the whole console apart. I just tend to freak out when doing such delicate work and would definitely hate to break anything. As for kids and cars, well, this one has been spared a bit of all the nasty stuff since they're a little older now, but my previous two have seen it all, and I mean everything. My wife still lets them make a little more mess in her car than I do in mine, but that's more due to her slightly more laid back personality. At the end of the day, it's just a car, things will be cleaned/repaired and replaced. She's getting her license soon and imagine how cool it will be to be able to drive a manual rear wheel drive as a new driver.
|
| fatass69 (17hp) | Quote: Originally posted by Bbb34 She's getting her license soon and imagine how cool it will be to be able to drive a manual rear wheel drive as a new driver. When I taught my daughter that she should be a driver and not an operator. And since the drivers here don't seem to be able to make decisions, I taught her to make decisions for the other cars. Sometimes that means speeding up (most of the time) or slowing down. The operators here have no idea how to merge! I also took her to an empty parking lot in the rain (to the local High Screwel on a weekend) and had her practice correcting a skid (no FWD devices for my kids!!!!). That was fun! A RWD manual??!?!?!? You are a GREAT dad!! She will be the envy of the rice boys at school!!
|
| 21031987 (494hp) | Quote: Originally written by Bbb34. Good idea about the electrical contact cleaner, thanks, although I'm not looking forward to taking the whole console apart. I just tend to freak out when doing such delicate work and would definitely hate to break anything. It's actually quite simple. Just take your time, use soft rags to avoid scratches, and make sure the wires are plugged back in when you're done. I didn't and broke a cable, requiring removal and reinstallation. There are a few good videos on this topic. Just Google “F10 center console removal“.
|
| Fre_535Xd_F11 (483hp) | Quote: Originally written by Trian It's actually very simple. Just take your time, use soft rags to avoid scratches, and make sure the wires are plugged back in when you're done. I didn't and broke a cable, requiring removal and reinstallation. There are a few good videos on this topic. Just google “F10 center console removal.” Does the battery need to be disconnected first, or is that overkill for the job? I mean it doesn't cost anything to do it, I just thought I'd take a look.
|
| bostonzack (60hp) | Quote: Originally posted by ezaircon4jc When I taught my daughter how to be a driver and not an operator. And since the drivers here don't seem to be able to make decisions, I taught her to make decisions for the other cars. Sometimes that means speeding up (most of the time) or slowing down. The operators here have no idea how to merge! I also took her to an empty parking lot in the rain (to the local High Screwel on a weekend) and had her practice correcting a skid (no FWD devices for my kids!!!!). That was fun! A RWD manual??!?!?!? You are a GREAT dad!! She'll be the envy of the Ricer boys at school!! Ha ha, thanks... uh... I guess. My (imaginary) story for the boys is to treat them with respect, or... you know... I don't mind going back in... again.
|
| eharvill (73hp) | Quote: Originally posted by Bbb34 Ha ha, thanks... uh... I guess. My (imaginary) story for the boys is to treat them with respect, or... you know... I don't mind going back in... again. We have a desert near here called Borrego Springs. I told my daughter (now fiancée) on the first date when he picked her up for the first date when I met him... I have a gun and a shovel, Borrego isn't that far away and I'm NOT afraid to go back to the Jail! He thought I was serious!! I have an application for a date with my daughter if you are interested. One of my favorite questions is what NO means. Then there's something like "Who Least Wants to Get Shot." This thing is a gem!
|
| pokemon. (446hp) | The manual F10 has a cup holder in a somewhat unusual location, right between the iDrive controls and the storage compartment between the front seats. It also features a small clip that pops out to hold the cup securely in place. A bit awkward design and a bit cheap looking for this type of car, but it is what it is. Let's say a person has a teenage daughter (um...asking for a friend here...maybe) who doesn't follow directions well, and she puts her iced tea (mostly sugar, as we all know) in this Holder. but he is unable to lift the small clip to secure the cup. So the cup randomly moved forward, spilling some (not much) of its contents all over the iDrive controls and parking sensor switch (fortunately not the handbrake or DHP switch). Initial reaction aside, fast forward past the shock and anger...lol and I'm now...I mean...a friend of mine is looking for ideas on how to clean the bottom of these buttons. They are now a bit sticky at the bottom, ready to use but sticky. I can't think of any other way than replacing the whole thing, but I thought I'd make it available for those of you with more experience?
|
| green18 (475hp) | I think your friend's teenage daughter needs to either be put in jail or possibly shot at dawn!!!!! I would take off the console top and remove the iDrive controller and switch panel. Then I would spray some electrical contact cleaner on the sugary parts. Electric cleaners should also be safe for plastics. You could also try IPA, I would get as close to 100% as possible. My once-teenage daughter (now 28) is getting married in June. I will miss her!! Back when we bought a brand new 1996 Mercury Sable. The salesman had plied our children with lemonade and my daughter chose orange. After hours of negotiating (pre-internet) and running around with the kids, it was finally time for us to head home in our new car. I strapped my almost 6 year old daughter into her booster seat and she puked all over her clothes, the booster seat, and the fabric part of the back seat (it was a fabric/leather combination). What could I do?? She is my little girl!
|
| blender (444hp) | How do you keep your composure? As ezaircon4jc said, I would remove the center console and clean it before it causes problems later and the friend is no longer allowed in the car
|
| herbie53 (283hp) | I joked about asking for a girlfriend and yes, the initial reaction was a bit annoyed, but the bottom line is I like her more than the car, she... happens, what can you do? I might have threatened to have her cover the cost of the new iDrive controls, but at the end of the day it was an accident, as careless as teenagers can be, these things happen. Good idea about the electrical contact cleaner, thanks, although I'm not looking forward to taking the whole console apart. I just tend to freak out when doing such delicate work and would definitely hate to break anything. As for kids and cars, well, this one has been spared a bit of all the nasty stuff since they're a little older now, but my previous two have seen it all, and I mean everything. My wife still lets them make a little more mess in her car than I do in mine, but that's more due to her slightly more laid back personality. At the end of the day, it's just a car, things will be cleaned/repaired and replaced. She's getting her license soon and imagine how cool it will be to be able to drive a manual rear wheel drive as a new driver.
|
| giraffa (79hp) | Quote: Originally posted by Bbb34 She's getting her license soon and imagine how cool it will be to be able to drive a manual rear wheel drive as a new driver. When I taught my daughter that she should be a driver and not an operator. And since the drivers here don't seem to be able to make decisions, I taught her to make decisions for the other cars. Sometimes that means speeding up (most of the time) or slowing down. The operators here have no idea how to merge! I also took her to an empty parking lot in the rain (to the local High Screwel on a weekend) and had her practice correcting a skid (no FWD devices for my kids!!!!). That was fun! A RWD manual??!?!?!? You are a GREAT dad!! She will be the envy of the rice boys at school!!
|
| pudge (64hp) | Quote: Originally written by Bbb34. Good idea about the electrical contact cleaner, thanks, although I'm not looking forward to taking the whole console apart. I just tend to freak out when doing such delicate work and would definitely hate to break anything. It's actually quite simple. Just take your time, use soft rags to avoid scratches, and make sure the wires are plugged back in when you're done. I didn't and in the process broke a wire which required removal and reinstallation. There are a few good videos on this topic. Just Google “F10 center console removal“.
|
| leckmich (831hp) | Quote: Originally written by Trian It's actually very simple. Just take your time, use soft rags to avoid scratches, and make sure the wires are plugged back in when you're done. I didn't and broke a cable, requiring removal and reinstallation. There are a few good videos on this topic. Just google “F10 center console removal.” Does the battery need to be disconnected first, or is that overkill for the job? I mean it doesn't cost anything to do it, I just thought I'd take a look.
|
| glafira110169 (101hp) | Quote: Originally posted by ezaircon4jc When I taught my daughter how to be a driver and not an operator. And since the drivers here don't seem to be able to make decisions, I taught her to make decisions for the other cars. Sometimes that means speeding up (most of the time) or slowing down. The operators here have no idea how to merge! I also took her to an empty parking lot in the rain (to the local High Screwel on a weekend) and had her practice correcting a skid (no FWD devices for my kids!!!!). That was fun! A RWD manual??!?!?!? You are a GREAT dad!! She'll be the envy of the Ricer boys at school!! Ha ha, thanks... uh... I guess. My (imaginary) story for the boys is to treat them with respect, or... you know... I don't mind going back in... again.
|
| 24081979 (685hp) | Quote: Originally posted by Bbb34 Ha ha, thanks... uh... I guess. My (imaginary) story for the boys is to treat them with respect, or... you know... I don't mind going back in... again. We have a desert near here called Borrego Springs. I told my daughter (now fiancée) on the first date when he picked her up for the first date when I met him... I have a gun and a shovel, Borrego isn't that far away and I'm NOT afraid to go back to the Jail! He thought I was serious!! I have an application for a date with my daughter if you are interested. One of my favorite questions is what NO means. Then there's something like "Who Least Wants to Get Shot." This thing is a gem!
|
| antonio16 (601hp) | $250.00 shipped. UPS. PayPal
|
| 221226 (622hp) | Quote: Originally written by Bklynjoker $250.00 shipped. UPS. PayPal Does it have a wiring harness b?
|
| schmoolie (197hp) | Quote: Originally posted by Bbmw535 Does it have a wiring harness b? The title says Type B
|
| dakota98 (131hp) | Unfortunately SOLD
|
| eVitO (784hp) | $250.00 shipped. UPS. PayPal
|
| 080393 (734hp) | Quote: Originally written by Bklynjoker $250.00 shipped. UPS. PayPal Does it have a wiring harness b?
|
| bishop1 (425hp) | Quote: Originally posted by Bbmw535 Does it have a wiring harness b? The title says Type B
|
| ivan (313hp) | Unfortunately SOLD
|
| jes123 (905hp) | I drive a 2011 BMW 535. Yesterday it was a little warmer, around 18°C. I'm not sure what's causing the problem, but it only occurs on warmer days. Every time I turn on my air conditioner with or without air conditioning I feel this unpleasant smell that is hard to describe but smells like some kind of chemical medicine. It doesn't smell like mold and only lasts a minute or two. He disappears until I start my car again. I never notice the smell when it's 50F or colder outside. I also try to run the AC at least once a week in the winter, but as I mentioned before, the smell comes out with or without the AC.
|
| 24121985 (683hp) | If necessary, replace the air filters?
|
| 091091 (393hp) | I have a similar problem when the air conditioner turns on. I had the dealer replace the filters and deodorize them. I'm pretty sure it's the AC coil and is probably moldy
|
| hawaii07 (288hp) | I had a similar smell. I changed the cabin filter and no more smell.
|
| polly (17hp) | Quote: Originally posted by AldoNY I have a similar problem when the air conditioner turns on. I had the dealer replace the filters and deodorize them. I'm pretty sure it's the AC coil and probably moldy. I think I have the same problem. How would we fix the problem??
|
| atkins (505hp) | I sprayed Lysol on the intake grille. There are also commercially available sprays that are supposed to help. Pull out your cabin filter and spray inside with the fan running. That should help too. Good luck! Tasmanian
|
| 30101993 (284hp) | Antifreeze could be leaking. You should visit BMW or a trusted mechanic who can check both radiators.
|
| pilipino (535hp) | https://m.youtube.com/watch?v=m2SRZTY1JXQ
|
| anissa1 (876hp) | Quote: Originally posted by Falcon20x https://m.youtube.com/watch?v=m2SRZTY1JXQ wow... did it really work??
|
| 1cheyenne (783hp) | Quote: Originally posted by f10znj I also try to run the AC at least once a week in the winter, but as I mentioned before, the smell comes out with or without the AC. What does that mean? You should always set the system to Auto, which will automatically turn the air conditioning on and off. Just control the temperature and let the car figure out what to do. I've never had that musty smell before
|
| zermatt (563hp) | I drive a 2011 BMW 535. Yesterday it was a little warmer, around 18°C. I'm not sure what's causing the problem, but it only occurs on warmer days. Every time I turn on my air conditioner with or without air conditioning I feel this unpleasant smell that is hard to describe but smells like some kind of chemical medicine. It doesn't smell like mold and only lasts a minute or two. He disappears until I start my car again. I never notice the smell when it's 50F or colder outside. I also try to run the AC at least once a week in the winter, but as I mentioned before, the smell comes out with or without the AC.
|
| sangoku (806hp) | If necessary, replace the air filters?
|
| frank01 (56hp) | I have a similar problem when the air conditioner turns on. I had the dealer replace the filters and deodorize them. I'm pretty sure it's the AC coil and is probably moldy
|
| 201308 (165hp) | I had a similar smell. I changed the cabin filter and no more smell.
|
| kmdtyjr (87hp) | Quote: Originally posted by AldoNY I have a similar problem when the air conditioner turns on. I had the dealer replace the filters and deodorize them. I'm pretty sure it's the AC coil and probably moldy. I think I have the same problem. How would we fix the problem??
|
| elsie (470hp) | I sprayed Lysol on the intake grille. There are also commercially available sprays that are supposed to help. Pull out your cabin filter and spray inside with the fan running. That should help too. Good luck! Tasmanian
|
| 191179 (740hp) | Antifreeze could be leaking. You should visit BMW or a trusted mechanic who can check both radiators.
|
| boogie01 (524hp) | https://m.youtube.com/watch?v=m2SRZTY1JXQ
|
| toenail (847hp) | Quote: Originally posted by Falcon20x https://m.youtube.com/watch?v=m2SRZTY1JXQ wow... did it really work??
|
| Precious1 (768hp) | Quote: Originally posted by f10znj I also try to run the AC at least once a week in the winter, but as I mentioned before, the smell comes out with or without the AC. What does that mean? You should always set the system to Auto, which will automatically turn the air conditioning on and off. Just control the temperature and let the car figure out what to do. I've never had that musty smell before
|
| green24 (641hp) | Hello guys, Phoenix, AZ here. Just got a CPO 2016 535d with M-Sport, navigation/satellite, luxury, heads up display and driver assistance packages. My question is: Can I add the Driving Assistance Plus package to my existing device? Any recommendations, suggestions? Thank you.... Lyndon
|
| tissot (13hp) | It will require a lot of research, work and expense. Most people find that retrofitting is not worth it. What part of the package are you looking for???
|
| linux1 (870hp) | Quote: Originally posted by BimmerOwner Hello folks, here from Phoenix, AZ. Just got a CPO 2016 535d with M-Sport, navigation/satellite, luxury, heads up display and driver assistance packages. My question is: Can I add the Driving Assistance Plus package to my existing device? Any recommendations, suggestions? Thanks.... Lyndon Great! Mine is the same but without M-Sport. I have the 18 full-season Continental RFTs. Satch Carlson once called the base F10 a Buick, but that doesn't seem to be the case with my LCI version. How do you inflate your tires and how do you find the driving experience? PL
|
| cooper23 (843hp) | I understand. I'm trying to achieve the following: active blind spot, lane departure warning, forward collision warning, pedestrian warning and night vision. Thank you very much. Lyndon
|
| bcnas (245hp) | Quote: Originally written by Pierre Louis Great! Mine is the same but without M-Sport. I have the 18 full-season Continental RFTs. Satch Carlson once called the base F10 a Buick, but that doesn't seem to be the case with my LCI version. How do you inflate your tires and how do you find the driving experience? PL PL, I love my unit. The handling and response is so great. I have a run-flat tire and it is inflated with nitro. at my car dealer. The ride is so great. The best thing that can happen to me is the gas consumption. I now have to fill up every two weeks, compared to every week on my previous Nissan Murano. Thank you very much. LH
|
| freckles1 (130hp) | Quote: Originally posted by wcr3d It will take a lot of research, work and expense. Most people find that retrofitting is not worth it. What part of the package are you looking for? I understand. I would like to receive: Active Blind Spot Warning, Lane Departure Warning, Forward Collision Warning, Pedestrian Warning and Night Vision. Thank you very much. Lyndon
|
| 30011978 (559hp) | Hello guys, Phoenix, AZ here. Just got a CPO 2016 535d with M-Sport, navigation/satellite, luxury, heads up display and driver assistance packages. My question is: Can I add the Driving Assistance Plus package to my existing device? Any recommendations, suggestions? Thank you.... Lyndon
|
| bish (88hp) | It will require a lot of research, work and expense. Most people find that retrofitting is not worth it. What part of the package are you looking for???
|
| dir3 (292hp) | Quote: Originally posted by BimmerOwner Hello folks, here from Phoenix, AZ. Just got a CPO 2016 535d with M-Sport, navigation/satellite, luxury, heads up display and driver assistance packages. My question is: Can I add the Driving Assistance Plus package to my existing device? Any recommendations, suggestions? Thanks.... Lyndon Great! Mine is the same but without M-Sport. I have the 18 full-season Continental RFTs. Satch Carlson once called the base F10 a Buick, but that doesn't seem to be the case with my LCI version. How do you inflate your tires and how do you find the driving experience? PL
|
| bubbles08 (534hp) | I understand. I'm trying to achieve the following: active blind spot, lane departure warning, forward collision warning, pedestrian warning and night vision. Thank you very much. Lyndon
|
| anabas (386hp) | Quote: Originally written by Pierre Louis Great! Mine is the same but without M-Sport. I have the 18 full-season Continental RFTs. Satch Carlson once called the base F10 a Buick, but that doesn't seem to be the case with my LCI version. How do you inflate your tires and how do you find the driving experience? PL PL, I love my unit. The handling and response is so great. I have a run-flat tire and it is inflated with nitro. at my car dealer. The ride is so great. The best thing that can happen to me is the gas consumption. I now have to fill up every two weeks, compared to every week on my previous Nissan Murano. Thank you very much. LH
|
| pumpkinpie (732hp) | Quote: Originally posted by wcr3d It will take a lot of research, work and expense. Most people find that retrofitting is not worth it. What part of the package are you looking for? I understand. I would like to receive: Active Blind Spot Warning, Lane Departure Warning, Forward Collision Warning, Pedestrian Warning and Night Vision. Thank you very much. Lyndon
|
| vasilenko (589hp) | [Deleted in protest] ETA: Apparently the responsible party - you know who you are - reserves the right to do substandard work and is not afraid to make threats to defend its supposed reputation.
|
| crazyone (323hp) | I could recommend the MD site, but it might be out of the way for you. A dead battery is a simple thing... maybe it was time, but what is your explanation for the hissing noise? Is your car under warranty as this could be covered?
|
| glassman (820hp) | [Deleted in protest]
|
| flower77 (18hp) | [Deleted in protest] ETA: It appears that the responsible party - you know who you are - reserves the right to do substandard work and is not afraid to make threats to defend its supposed reputation.
|
| nice12 (338hp) | I could recommend the MD site, but it might be out of the way for you. A dead battery is a simple thing... maybe it was time, but what is your explanation for the hissing noise? Is your car under warranty as this could be covered?
|
| redsox21 (5hp) | [Deleted in protest]
|
| vyacheslav (780hp) | POSTED ON ANOTHER SITE BUT I DON'T THINK ANYONE HAS AN IDEA??? A few days ago when she was about to leave work and the device was running like crap, she turned it off and tried to turn it back on but couldn't. It freaked out and wouldn't start... Got it with a Solus-Ultra -Scanner scanned. The codes are: 133010 - Valvetronic actuator, activation malfunction 134F02 - Valvetronic, range stop not learned 135B11 - Valvetronic actuator, control phase voltage open circuit Would this be the Valvetronic motor? gone bad? OR Would this be the fault of the eccentric shaft sensor? OR something completely different? Any help would be appreciated...like I said, this isn't my car and I'm not trying to tell this girl to buy parts she doesn't really need. I've heard that the Valvetronic motors rarely break, I'm not sure if that's true but it's exactly what I've read on other forums...
|
| elomboy (415hp) | Could be many different things. One thing I would check. Check all the fuses, when I say everything, I mean all, take a good look even if you have to take them out one by one and check them
|
| perry123 (198hp) | POSTED ON ANOTHER SITE BUT I DON'T THINK ANYONE HAS AN IDEA??? A few days ago, as she was about to leave work and the machine was running like crap, she turned it off and tried to turn it back over, but only turned the crank and wouldn't start. She scanned it with a Solus Ultra scanner and scanned the codes are: 133010 - Valvetronic actuator, activation malfunction 134F02 - Valvetronic, range stop not learned 135B11 - Valvetronic actuator, control phase voltage open circuit Would this be the defective Valvetronic motor? OR Would this be the fault of the eccentric shaft sensor? OR something completely different? Any help would be appreciated...like I said, this isn't my car and I'm not trying to tell this girl to buy parts she doesn't really need. I've heard that the Valvetronic motors rarely break, I'm not sure if that's true but it's exactly what I've read on other forums...
|
| goomba (113hp) | Could be many different things. One thing I would check. Check all the fuses, when I say everything, I mean all, take a good look even if you have to take them out one by one and check them
|
| summer77 (994hp) | First post guys, I apologize if I do anything wrong. I've had this problem since I bought the car last year, but recently it's become such a hassle. Basically, the infotainment system keeps crashing and restarting while driving. When it restarts, it seems to go back to the setting it was on when I started the car, rather than the setting it was on just before the accident. Took it to the dealer who said 100 just to look at it. I thought it was my phone. When I connected via Bluetooth, the file or something like that may have been corrupted, but even without connection the device still plays. I also can't seem to access my contacts in my previous F20 1 series. I could see the contacts quite well, but on this one they are nowhere to be seen. My car is a 2013 model. I don't think it's an NBT device, but I'm not entirely sure, and it has the business media package (larger screen). We would appreciate any help, thank you!
|
| nike11 (9hp) | First post guys, I apologize if I do anything wrong. I've had this problem since I bought the car last year, but recently it's become such a hassle. Basically, the infotainment system keeps crashing and restarting while driving. When it restarts, it seems to go back to the setting it was on when I started the car, rather than the setting it was on just before the accident. Took it to the dealer who said 100 just to look at it. I thought it was my phone. When I connected via Bluetooth, the file or something like that may have been corrupted, but even without connection the device still plays. I also can't seem to access my contacts in my previous F20 1 series. I could see the contacts quite well, but on this one they are nowhere to be seen. My car is a 2013 model. I don't think it's an NBT device, but I'm not entirely sure, and it has the business media package (larger screen). We would appreciate any help, thank you!
|
| ingeras (796hp) | I received a message on the iDrive about a transmission failure and the dealer states that the mechatronic unit is defective. The transfer was previously replaced in April 2017, the relevant part of the invoice is attached. Can someone please tell me if the information on the invoice shows whether the mechatronic unit was replaced? In other words: Is a gearbox equipped with a mechatronic unit? If so, BMW's 2-year parts warranty should cover it. Please inform us as soon as possible. Thank you for your much needed help!
|
| luiggino (664hp) | Replacement gearboxes come complete with mechatronics and are sealed units. The technique is to add/check the fluid level, but other than that you're good to go. It should be a warranty item.
|
| sarrah (855hp) | I just emailed this to the service advisor: “Can you please check if the entire transmission can be replaced under the 2 year parts warranty? You will need to speak to your warranty department about this as the entire gearbox was replaced as part of the previous RO." I have just spoken to the parts departments of two dealers and confirmed that the gearboxes are fully mechatronics fitted and are sealed units. It is a part within a part and if the mechatronics itself cannot be guaranteed, the entire transmission should be warranted." I just got this back: "The mechatronics are sold separately and have their own part number. No guarantee can be given for the gearbox if the mechatronics have failed.” What should I do?!?
|
| serial (260hp) | I spoke to my service advisor again who said he spoke to the service manager and was told that this was a "technical matter" and that the dealer couldn't guarantee the transmission as it wasn't the entire thing Gearbox needs to be replaced. And they cannot guarantee the mechatronic module itself because it has its own part number and there are no records of pre-sales. I was instructed to contact customer service I have and the dealer expects customer service to contact the service manager. I asked if the dealer could contact the company themselves but was told it would be better if I did it myself. I reiterated that the entire transmission was replaced within the last two years and that the mechatronics module is a part of the entire transmission that should be covered by the two year warranty as the module itself was effectively installed on my car within the last two years when it was part of the transmission. When I called customer service, the representative I spoke with was confused as to why I was calling and stated that dealers make the final decision on warranty coverage and that they have their own internal company contacts for warranty matters. So I'm not sure what to say, but that's where we are. Any further insights/knowledge/recommendations welcome. Will keep everyone updated. Thank you again, I appreciate it.
|
| 07071983 (187hp) | I would take it to another dealer if possible, they don't have a warranty, but BMW does. That's right.
|
| 141312 (269hp) | Quote: Quote from Stück I would take it to another dealer if possible, there is no guarantee, but BMW. That's right. :|
.
|
All times are GMT -5. The time now is 01:58 AM.
