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| brit (499hp) | Quote: Originally posted by AussieBob Well, at least one of me appreciates it! Asking prices are now double what they were 14 years ago. And the S50B30 Euro engine and 5-speed manual transmission still put a huge smile on my face (even brighter now that I've seen the current retail prices). Attachment 2374724 Assuming this is adjusted for inflation, that's pretty impressive.
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| 1234567abc (75hp) | Don't feel bad. I looked at a 2017 740 i x-Drive, 32,000 miles CPO for $35,999. Original MSRP was $94,800.
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| caiden (628hp) | Quote: Originally posted by khanmohammed I own a 2016 BMW 528i that includes all packages except M-Sport and Cold Weather. But I added the M sport wheel and heated steering. MSRP is $64,000 and mileage is approximately 40,000 miles. I looked at the value now and it looks like I only get $26,000??? No accident or damage and I am the second owner so I don't understand why the 528i depreciates so much. How much do you think it should cost (that's a rhetorical question)? Because whatever you think the price is...compare that price to what you could buy new, with a full warranty. Anyone who can afford to pay that price will most likely spend that money on a new car rather than an old car with 40,000 miles on the clock and no warranty. This is economics 101. Those of us who take the plunge and buy used BMWs after the original owner has lost value are a smaller minority of buyers. I bought the f06 650ix GC for about 75% off the original MSRP of $104,000.00... and just bought a f15 X5 50i for about 70% off the original MSRP of $85,000. Again, luxury car prices drop like a stone until you find a buyer willing to take on the maintenance and upkeep (which is still at the high end of luxury)... but costs about the same as what you would pay for a well-equipped new Toyota/Honda/GM/Ford/etc. product with a 3/4 year full warranty. It's a gamble, but if you choose wisely you can get a very nice vehicle for a lot less than it originally cost. I also tend to keep vehicles for longer periods of time. The longest in the fleet was my 1985 BMW 325e (14 years) and my 97 e38 740iL (15 years).).
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| peregrine (891hp) | Quote: Originally posted by Qsilver7 Quote: Originally posted by khanmohammed I own a 2016 BMW 528i that includes all packages except M-Sport and Cold Weather. But I added the M sport wheel and heated steering. MSRP is $64,000 and mileage is approximately 40,000 miles. I looked at the value now and it looks like I only get $26,000??? No accident or damage and I'm the second owner so I don't understand how the 528i depreciates so much. How much do you think it should cost (that's a rhetorical question)? Because whatever you think the price is...compare that price to what you could buy new, with a full warranty. Anyone who can afford to pay that price will most likely spend that money on a new car rather than an old car with 40,000 miles on the clock and no warranty. Its economics 101. Those of us who take the plunge and buy used BMWs after the original owner has suffered depreciation are a smaller minority of buyers. I bought the f06 650ix GC for about 75% off the original MSRP of $104,000.00... and just bought a f15 X5 50i for about 70% off the original MSRP of $85,000. Again, luxury car prices drop like a stone until you find a buyer willing to take on the maintenance (which is still in the upper luxury range)...but will cost you about the same as a well-equipped one Car would pay for new product from Toyota/Honda/GM/Ford/etc. with 3/4 year full guarantee. It's a gamble, but if you choose wisely you can get a very nice vehicle for a lot less than it originally cost. I also tend to keep vehicles for longer periods of time. The longest in the fleet was my 1985 BMW 325e (14 years) and my 97 e38 740iL (15 years). I bought it at an auction last year with 26,000 miles for $25,000. However, these should be worth at least $34,000
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| 560002 (940hp) | Quote: Originally posted by philipm785 I know this can be a very unpleasant surprise. When I purchased my 2016 CPO 550i, I paid less than 50% of the retail price, even though the car was only 2.5 years old and had 34,000 miles on it. Unfortunately, most luxury brands have taken this route in recent years for a variety of reasons, including heavy use of leasing in the first 2.5 to 3 years and concerns about medium-term maintenance costs. Mercedes is the same way. Porsche is better, but only on certain models. I bought a 15 550i last year with almost all packages (ACC, BO, rear steering, everything but 4 zones, rear entertainment and night vision). The MSRP was ~$92,000! After 4 years and 45,000 miles I paid $26,000 at Carmax 🤣, I added the Maxcare warranty on top because, you know, it's not crazy 😉,
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| jakub (308hp) | Quote: Originally posted by khanmohammed. I bought it at an auction last year with 26,000 miles for $25,000. But these should be worth at least $34,000. Not for a 4-banger...
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| heroes1 (167hp) | I had a three year window in which to purchase a 535d and decided to purchase a new leftover at an essentially used price, later supported by the BMW CCA $1,000 rebate and three years later made even better thanks to the BMWFS leasing purchase discount. I like a new car and keep it for a very long time. Some self maintenance. However, depreciation loss is something that is automatically paid with every new lease. Therefore, the leasing argument should be to get at least one car that you don't want to pay upfront for at a discounted monthly amount.
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| 080706 (786hp) | Quote: Originally posted by jarsdad1 Don't feel bad. I looked at a 2017 740 i x-Drive, 32,000 miles CPO for $35,999. Original MSRP was $94,800. The 7 is the best purchase write-off
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| sssuka80 (739hp) | I own a 2016 BMW 528i that includes all packages except M-Sport and Cold Weather. But I added the M sport wheel and heated steering. MSRP is $64,000 and mileage is approximately 40,000 miles. I looked at the value now and it looks like I only get $26,000??? No accident or damage and I'm the second owner so I don't understand how the 528i depreciates so much.
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| tweeling (199hp) | Welcome to the brand. It just is, and if you're like most of us buying a used car, that's what makes a BMW a good buy.
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| swoosh (572hp) | Yes indeed! It's been like this for a decade!!!
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| Logitech (996hp) | I know this can be a very unpleasant surprise. When I purchased my 2016 CPO 550i, I paid less than 50% of the retail price, even though the car was only 2.5 years old and had 34,000 miles on it. Unfortunately, most luxury brands have taken this route in recent years for a variety of reasons, including heavy use of leasing in the first 2.5 to 3 years and concerns about medium-term maintenance costs. Mercedes is the same way. Porsche is better, but only on certain models.
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| jacoby1 (830hp) | Sounds about right. When buying (and selling) a car, keep in mind that packages don't mean as much at trade-in as they do at purchase. I learned it the hard way when I bought an Audi Prestige where the resale value for a Prestige was almost identical to that of a Premium (lowest package) despite costing almost 10k more when I bought it new. They've got you by the balls either way. 1. When buying/leasing, you pay the premium upfront but have the peace of mind that there is a warranty and most things are covered. 2. If you buy CPO, be sure to pay more than you can get at a used car lot outside of the BMW dealership for extra peace of mind. 3. If you buy a used non-BMW vehicle, you will receive a similar package at a much cheaper price. However, you have to remember that it's not a matter of IF it breaks, but WHEN - so don't complain about having to pay for it. One thing I don't understand is owners who buy a car for a third of the new price that has known problems and then complain that it needs repairs. Either buy new or set aside 10k for the additional repairs. It costs $ to maintain these cars.
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| paul23 (363hp) | I have a BMW stable. I just love these cars. They're great as long as they work and you can keep track of them. I do everything myself. So it just depends on the cost of the parts. I'll pick them up cheaply. Find out what they need and care for them properly or enjoy them. I would also rather drive a used BMW than a new Toyota. No offense Toyota, as I also own a Tundra and a Yaris that I rent out for cash. I am grateful that I have the ability to rip. But yes. Welcome to the brand...
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| 314 (869hp) | Very few cars gain value, 99.9999% lose value. You should never buy a car based on what it may or may not be worth in the future. When it comes to resale, leasing can be the solution. Assuming it is not a full purchase. In this case, depreciation shouldn't be a concern as the car should be kept for many years. I've retired from the new car buying business since retiring, so I'm more than happy to buy a used car and entrust it to the original owner. I also keep my cars until it's no longer worth it or the parts are no longer available. By the time I keep driving, the car is usually at the bottom of the depreciation scale.
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| qazxcdews (499hp) | That's why you buy used
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| maksim2425 (584hp) | I bought my '16 535i fully loaded with all the extras except sport seats and rear seat entertainment at 60,000 miles for significantly less. I always buy used and am now the 2nd owner.
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| toolman1 (119hp) | The huge depreciation, large amount of DIY information and parts availability, modifications, forums and used car value of a new economy car attracted me to BMW. Do the maintenance and repairs yourself and in my opinion it is a fantastic brand.
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| 000911 (7hp) | I paid $9,500 for my car with a little less than 100,000 on the clock. Even when I graduate, I will only buy 20,000 to 25,000 used cars. I can tolerate some depreciation, but not every few years 30.000.
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| 12101978 (500hp) | If you're buying cars that lose 30,000 in value every few years, you should definitely lease. For that much money you can lease a new 5 Series with peace of mind.
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| culinary (982hp) | Well, at least one of me appreciates it! Asking prices are now double what they were 14 years ago. And the S50B30 Euro engine and 5-speed manual transmission still put a huge smile on my face (even brighter now that I've seen the current retail prices).).
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| emorawsk (802hp) | Quote: Originally posted by AussieBob Well, at least one of me is happy about it! Asking prices are now double what they were 14 years ago. And the S50B30 Euro engine and 5-speed manual transmission still put a huge smile on my face (even brighter now that I've seen the current retail prices). Attachment 2374724 Yes..... But the steering wheel is on the wrong side!!!!
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| iloveandy (230hp) | Quote: Originally posted by AussieBob Well, at least one of me appreciates it! Asking prices are now double what they were 14 years ago. And the S50B30 Euro engine and 5-speed manual transmission still put a huge smile on my face (even brighter now that I've seen the current retail prices). Attachment 2374724 Assuming this is adjusted for inflation, that's pretty impressive.
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| suvidh (673hp) | Don't feel bad. I looked at a 2017 740 i x-Drive, 32,000 miles CPO for $35,999. Original MSRP was $94,800.
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| cutie7 (222hp) | Quote: Originally posted by khanmohammed I own a 2016 BMW 528i that includes all packages except M-Sport and Cold Weather. But I added the M sport wheel and heated steering. MSRP is $64,000 and mileage is approximately 40,000 miles. I looked at the value now and it looks like I only get $26,000??? No accident or damage and I am the second owner so I don't understand why the 528i depreciates so much. How much do you think it should cost (that's a rhetorical question)? Because whatever you think the price is...compare that price to what you could buy new, with a full warranty. Anyone who can afford to pay that price will most likely spend that money on a new car rather than an old car with 40,000 miles on the clock and no warranty. This is economics 101. Those of us who take the plunge and buy used BMWs after the original owner has lost value are a smaller minority of buyers. I bought the f06 650ix GC for about 75% off the original MSRP of $104,000.00... and just bought a f15 X5 50i for about 70% off the original MSRP of $85,000. Again, luxury car prices drop like a stone until you find a buyer willing to take on the maintenance and upkeep (which is still at the high end of luxury)... but costs about the same as what you would pay for a well-equipped new Toyota/Honda/GM/Ford/etc. product with a 3/4 year full warranty. It's a gamble, but if you choose wisely you can get a very nice vehicle for a lot less than it originally cost. I also tend to keep vehicles for longer periods of time. The longest in the fleet was my 1985 BMW 325e (14 years) and my 97 e38 740iL (15 years).).
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| m55555 (723hp) | Quote: Originally posted by Qsilver7 Quote: Originally posted by khanmohammed I own a 2016 BMW 528i that includes all packages except M-Sport and Cold Weather. But I added the M sport wheel and heated steering. MSRP is $64,000 and mileage is approximately 40,000 miles. I looked at the value now and it looks like I only get $26,000??? No accident or damage and I'm the second owner so I don't understand how the 528i depreciates so much. How much do you think it should cost (that's a rhetorical question)? Because whatever you think the price is...compare that price to what you could buy new, with a full warranty. Anyone who can afford to pay that price will most likely spend that money on a new car rather than an old car with 40,000 miles on the clock and no warranty. Its economics 101. Those of us who take the plunge and buy used BMWs after the original owner has suffered depreciation are a smaller minority of buyers. I bought the f06 650ix GC for about 75% off the original MSRP of $104,000.00... and just bought a f15 X5 50i for about 70% off the original MSRP of $85,000. Again, luxury car prices drop like a stone until you find a buyer willing to take on the maintenance (which is still in the upper luxury range)...but will cost you about the same as a well-equipped one Car would pay for new product from Toyota/Honda/GM/Ford/etc. with 3/4 year full guarantee. It's a gamble, but if you choose wisely you can get a very nice vehicle for a lot less than it originally cost. I also tend to keep vehicles for longer periods of time. The longest in the fleet was my 1985 BMW 325e (14 years) and my 97 e38 740iL (15 years). I bought it at an auction last year with 26,000 miles for $25,000. However, these should be worth at least $34,000
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| 110699 (408hp) | Quote: Originally posted by philipm785 I know this can be a very unpleasant surprise. When I purchased my 2016 CPO 550i, I paid less than 50% of the retail price, even though the car was only 2.5 years old and had 34,000 miles on it. Unfortunately, most luxury brands have taken this route in recent years for a variety of reasons, including heavy use of leasing in the first 2.5 to 3 years and concerns about medium-term maintenance costs. Mercedes is the same way. Porsche is better, but only on certain models. I bought a 15 550i last year with almost all packages (ACC, BO, rear steering, everything but 4 zones, rear entertainment and night vision). The MSRP was ~$92,000! After 4 years and 45,000 miles I paid $26,000 at Carmax 🤣, I added the Maxcare warranty on top because, you know, it's not crazy 😉,
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| candyfloss (228hp) | Quote: Originally posted by khanmohammed. I bought it at an auction last year with 26,000 miles for $25,000. But these should be worth at least $34,000. Not for a 4-banger...
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| 28051978 (501hp) | Does this happen to you? After every car wash, the covers on my roof rack hooks open. Bad design, I suppose
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| tiburon1 (954hp) | I had a three year window in which to purchase a 535d and decided to purchase a new leftover at an essentially used price, later supported by the BMW CCA $1,000 rebate and three years later made even better thanks to the BMWFS leasing purchase discount. I like a new car and keep it for a very long time. Some self maintenance. However, depreciation loss is something that is automatically paid with every new lease. Therefore, the leasing argument should be to get at least one car that you don't want to pay upfront for at a discounted monthly amount.
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| 07021982 (193hp) | Yes, that happens to me too.
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| stockton1 (109hp) | Quote: Originally posted by jarsdad1 Don't feel bad. I looked at a 2017 740 i x-Drive, 32,000 miles CPO for $35,999. Original MSRP was $94,800. The 7 is the best purchase write-off
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| WindUp (691hp) | I'm afraid to ask what type of car wash you go to?
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| EMAILONLY (942hp) | Quote: Originally posted by gatoman39. Unfortunately, I'm wondering what type of car wash you go to? Why are you afraid to ask? I don't wash my cars myself, so like 90% of car owners, I take them to an automatic car wash. It is one of those fully equipped car washes where the car is driven directly onto the racetrack. Actually, I drive it on the track... I don't let anyone touch the inside as the inside of the F10 is prone to scratches. It is a very good car wash and I have been using it for years without any problems.
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| 180580 (551hp) | It is most likely caused by the industrial dryer the car drives into. As long as the flaps stay down while driving, I wouldn't worry about it.
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| JMD (319hp) | Yes, it happens to me too. I'm glad I'm not the only one. I was afraid that my device was defective.
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| ventana (99hp) | At least now I know how to open it without prying it open. AND in which direction they open. Thanks for the picture.
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| 160681 (835hp) | In 90% of cases it is the dryer. I wouldn't worry about it. I would be more concerned if I ran a car wash that thoroughly cleaned your car's paint. I know, I know... I'm just anal.
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| mmouse (4hp) | Quote: Originally posted by gtron 90% of the time it's the dryer. I wouldn't worry about it. I would be more concerned if I ran a car wash that thoroughly cleaned your car's paint. I know, I know... I'm just anal. Everyone has different levels of it. The best way to get a good look is to look at a freshly washed car hood in the sunlight with polarized sunglasses. Most cars will look like this to varying degrees:
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| M@rkus (969hp) | I am very strange. I never touched my car. I fear the vortex so much. I do Touchless once a week and then have it reconditioned and protected from time to time at a very reputable shop.
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| 121068 (568hp) | Quote: Originally written by BigKutta Does this happen to you? After every car wash, the covers on my roof rack hooks open. Probably bad design. Does anyone have a silver roof rack cover or know where I can buy one? Mine flew away.
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| southampton (573hp) | If you search the part on one of the online parts database sites (realoem.com, bimmercat.com, bmwfans.info, etc.) you can get the 11 digit BMW part number. Then simply search for the part nbr on Google (e.g. BMW xx xx x xxx xxx) and you should get a list of suppliers selling the part. This also gives you an idea of the price range. Or you can simply go to your local BMW dealer's parts department (or call them) and have them take a look and give you a price quote. You can also look at any of the others on your car, find the BMW part number and do the same Google/internet search using the 11 digit BMW part number.
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| pfqxtyjr (700hp) | I used silicone and glued the bastards in place! Now if I could find a way to keep my gas door closed!
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| francheska (731hp) | Does this happen to you? After every car wash, the covers on my roof rack hooks open. Bad design, I suppose
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| melusine (599hp) | Yes, that happens to me too.
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| michael95 (950hp) | I'm afraid to ask what type of car wash you go to?
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| 191980 (152hp) | Quote: Originally written by gatoman39. Unfortunately, I'm wondering what type of car wash you go to? Why are you afraid to ask? I don't wash my cars myself, so like 90% of car owners, I take them to an automatic car wash. It is one of those fully equipped car washes where the car is driven directly onto the racetrack. Actually, I drive it on the track... I don't let anyone touch the inside as the inside of the F10 is prone to scratches. It is a very good car wash and I have been using it for years without any problems.
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| 150280 (862hp) | It is most likely caused by the industrial dryer the car drives into. As long as the flaps stay down while driving, I wouldn't worry about it.
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| 04071993 (65hp) | Yes, it happens to me too. I'm glad I'm not the only one. I was afraid that my device was defective.
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| cheesefries (254hp) | At least now I know how to open it without prying it open. AND in which direction they open. Thanks for the picture.
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| ahapxuct (671hp) | In 90% of cases it is the dryer. I wouldn't worry about it. I would be more concerned if I ran a car wash that thoroughly cleaned your car's paint. I know, I know... I'm just anal.
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| 230589 (269hp) | Quote: Originally posted by gtron 90% of the time it's the dryer. I wouldn't worry about it. I would be more concerned if I ran a car wash that thoroughly cleaned your car's paint. I know, I know... I'm just anal. Everyone has different levels of it. The best way to get a good look is to look at a freshly washed car hood in the sunlight with polarized sunglasses. Most cars will look like this to varying degrees:
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| bombon (287hp) | I am very strange. I never touched my car. I fear the vortex so much. I do Touchless once a week and then have it reconditioned and protected from time to time at a very reputable shop.
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| marryme (974hp) | Quote: Originally written by BigKutta Does this happen to you? After every car wash, the covers on my roof rack hooks open. Probably bad design. Does anyone have a silver roof rack cover or know where I can buy one? Mine flew away.
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| 520999 (94hp) | If you search the part on one of the online parts database sites (realoem.com, bimmercat.com, bmwfans.info, etc.) you can get the 11 digit BMW part number. Then simply search for the part nbr on Google (e.g. BMW xx xx x xxx xxx) and you should get a list of suppliers selling the part. This also gives you an idea of the price range. Or you can simply go to your local BMW dealer's parts department (or call them) and have them take a look and give you a price quote. You can also look at any of the others on your car, find the BMW part number and do the same Google/internet search using the 11 digit BMW part number.
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| avensis (827hp) | I used silicone and glued the bastards in place! Now if I could find a way to keep my gas door closed!
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| christof (705hp) | I'm looking for a cat-back exhaust for my E60. If anyone has anything to offer, please contact me! Championship GTC exhaust preferred.
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| red123456 (481hp) | I'm looking for a cat-back exhaust for my E60. If anyone has anything to offer, please contact me! Championship GTC exhaust preferred.
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| 09101991 (150hp) | So I recently learned of a company that is modifying our current keychains to make them shark fin style keys. After the transaction and the back and forth with George making the change, my key was returned to me safe and modified. Everything is functional and has no defects. If you want this service, I recommend checking out Gates Innovation.
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| kulit (39hp) | YIKES!!!! $150!! That's almost as much as a new key!
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| apaaja (787hp) | Quote: Originally posted by ezaircon4jc YIKES!!!! $150!! That's almost as much as a new key! Yes, a new key costs $500, so it's not bad if your old key is broken
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| good4now (590hp) | Quote: Originally posted by tringuyen7757 Yes, the new key is $500, so not bad if your old key is broken. Not in Kommiefornya. We get a discount. IIRC, it's something like $250-$300.
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| 1935 (159hp) | Quote: Originally posted by ezaircon4jc Quote: Originally posted by tringuyen7757 Yes, the new key costs $500, so not bad if your old key is broken. Not in Kommiefornya. We get a discount. IIRC, it's about $250-$300. Interesting. But yeah, in the US it's $500, so not bad
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| lzap (255hp) | Quote: Originally posted by ezaircon4jc Quote: Originally posted by tringuyen7757 Yes, the new key costs $500, so not bad if your old key is broken. Not in Kommiefornya. We get a discount. IIRC, it's about $250-$300. I need more information on this topic because I was quoted $410 (or so) in OC.
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| ggoodlife (962hp) | Quote: Originally posted by ChampagneRocky_F10 I need more info on this because I was listed at $410 (or something) in OC. Scroll down for the number for California residents. https://www.bmwusa.com/contact-us/key-replacement.html
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| ey2001 (607hp) | Quote: Originally posted by ezaircon4jc Quote: Originally posted by ChampagneRocky_F10 I need more info on this because I was listed at $410 (or something) in OC. Scroll down for the number for California residents. https://www.bmwusa.com/contact-us/key-replacement.html Why?
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| babyboy09 (666hp) | Quote: Originally posted by zcali925 Why? Something about the Magnuson-Moss Warranty Act, IIRC.
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| xk55xDxCYR (76hp) | That's actually a decent deal. The new keychain feels and looks much more premium 2020.
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| zamira (633hp) | Quote: Originally written by AmooManiak. That's actually a decent deal. The new keychain feels and looks much more premium and 2020. So I rarely see my key.....
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| 20032005 (425hp) | Just for your information...this shark fin style remote control is actually not a new style...it is just the key style that was offered for the X series (X1/X2/X5/X6/X7)...and was used while the other remote fob was being used at the same time. I'm not sure why the X3/X4 didn't get it. Personally... I wouldn't change my F06's remotes to this style, otherwise it would easily get confused with my X5's remote. The two different styles make it easier for me to identify which remote belongs to which vehicle. But this obviously isn't a problem for those who don't have an X Sav/SUV that would use the same type of remote.
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| 010709 (307hp) | Quote: Originally written by Qsilver7. Just FYI: This shark fin style remote control is actually not a new style, just the button style that was offered for the X series (X1/X2/X5/X6/X7). ...and was used at the same time as the other remote control. I'm not sure why the X3/X4 didn't get it. Personally... I wouldn't change my F06's remotes to this style, otherwise it would easily get confused with my X5's remote. The two different styles make it easier for me to identify which remote belongs to which vehicle. But this obviously isn't a problem for those who don't have an X Sav/SUV that would use the same type of remote. I purchased some of these colored stickers to help distinguish the remote controls for our 535s.
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| 13051981 (594hp) | $150 is very reasonable in my opinion for something like this, I've always loved this key style
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| michelle09 (122hp) | That's kinda cool, so just curious. You had to send your key fob there and they sent it back or it was near you?
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| tonto1 (489hp) | So I recently learned of a company that is modifying our current keychains to make them shark fin style keys. After the transaction and the back and forth with George making the change, my key was returned to me safe and modified. Everything is functional and has no defects. If you want this service, I recommend checking out Gates Innovation.
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| princess9 (994hp) | YIKES!!!! $150!! That's almost as much as a new key!
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| 7410852963 (148hp) | Quote: Originally posted by ezaircon4jc YIKES!!!! $150!! That's almost as much as a new key! Yes, a new key costs $500, so it's not bad if your old key is broken
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| caddie (508hp) | Quote: Originally posted by tringuyen7757 Yes, the new key is $500, so not bad if your old key is broken. Not in Kommiefornya. We get a discount. IIRC, it's something like $250-$300.
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| pcthedruggist (313hp) | Quote: Originally posted by ezaircon4jc Quote: Originally posted by tringuyen7757 Yes, the new key costs $500, so not bad if your old key is broken. Not in Kommiefornya. We get a discount. IIRC, it's about $250-$300. Interesting. But yeah, in the US it's $500, so not bad
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| 100827092 (26hp) | Quote: Originally posted by ezaircon4jc Quote: Originally posted by tringuyen7757 Yes, the new key costs $500, so not bad if your old key is broken. Not in Kommiefornya. We get a discount. IIRC, it's about $250-$300. I need more information on this topic because I was quoted $410 (or so) in OC.
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| 13061995 (166hp) | Quote: Originally posted by ChampagneRocky_F10 I need more info on this because I was listed at $410 (or something) in OC. Scroll down for the number for California residents. https://www.bmwusa.com/contact-us/key-replacement.html
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| 011289 (741hp) | Quote: Originally posted by ezaircon4jc Quote: Originally posted by ChampagneRocky_F10 I need more info on this because I was listed at $410 (or something) in OC. Scroll down for the number for California residents. https://www.bmwusa.com/contact-us/key-replacement.html Why?
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| yfafyz (787hp) | Quote: Originally posted by zcali925 Why? Something about the Magnuson-Moss Warranty Act, IIRC.
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| tyree1 (31hp) | That's actually a decent deal. The new keychain feels and looks much more premium 2020.
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| 220673 (786hp) | Quote: Originally written by AmooManiak. That's actually a decent deal. The new keychain feels and looks much more premium and 2020. So I rarely see my key.....
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| giants84 (978hp) | Just for your information...this shark fin style remote control is actually not a new style...it is just the key style that was offered for the X series (X1/X2/X5/X6/X7)...and was used while the other remote fob was being used at the same time. I'm not sure why the X3/X4 didn't get it. Personally... I wouldn't change my F06's remotes to this style, otherwise it would easily get confused with my X5's remote. The two different styles make it easier for me to identify which remote belongs to which vehicle. But this obviously isn't a problem for those who don't have an X Sav/SUV that would use the same type of remote.
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| threesome3 (314hp) | Quote: Originally written by Qsilver7. Just FYI: This shark fin style remote control is actually not a new style, just the button style that was offered for the X series (X1/X2/X5/X6/X7). ...and was used at the same time as the other remote control. I'm not sure why the X3/X4 didn't get it. Personally... I wouldn't change my F06's remotes to this style, otherwise it would easily get confused with my X5's remote. The two different styles make it easier for me to identify which remote belongs to which vehicle. But this obviously isn't a problem for those who don't have an X Sav/SUV that would use the same type of remote. I purchased some of these colored stickers to help distinguish the remote controls for our 535s.
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| bebo12 (501hp) | $150 is very reasonable in my opinion for something like this, I've always loved this key style
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| computer9 (460hp) | That's kinda cool, so just curious. You had to send your key fob there and they sent it back or it was near you?
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| 23111992 (494hp) | Hi guys, do any of you know where the charcoal canister and leak detection pump are located on a 2014 535i? Thanks in advance for your help, guys.
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| samchoi604 (325hp) | I'm not sure if there's a charcoal canister in there too, but the leak detection sensor and filter are located behind the passenger tire in the tire well. Simply remove the tire and well cover to get there.
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| myspace82 (606hp) | Quote: Originally posted by geminiys I'm not sure if there's a charcoal canister there too, but the leak detection sensor and filter are located behind the rear passenger tire in the tire well. Simply remove the tire and well cover to get there. Thank you ! I'm actually looking for the leak detection pump, thanks for the info ! 👍,🏻,😉,
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| 19051997 (86hp) | Get an error code??
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| writer (703hp) | Quote: Originally posted by TZ Getting an error code? Yes error code 190302 from the Carly BMW app.
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| greenville (612hp) | Quote: Originally written by humbertob Thank you! I'm actually looking for the leak detection pump, thanks for the info! 👍,🏻,😉, I think on old BMWs it used to be called Purge Valve. It is located behind the passenger's rear tire in the tire well. It is a leak detection pump that needs to be replaced along with the filter. There are two types and depending on the model year you may have one or the other. Check this before purchasing one.
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| atchoum (784hp) | Quote: Originally written by humbertob Yes error code 190302 from the Carly BMW app. I had a similar problem (code 190302) and went to the dealer four times. Finally the dealer replaced the DMTL module to solve the problem. Luckily it was still under warranty.
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| fabio123 (517hp) | Have you ever been able to solve this problem? I have the same code and don't know where to start
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| 24051984 (819hp) | Hi guys, do any of you know where the charcoal canister and leak detection pump are located on a 2014 535i? Thanks in advance for your help, guys.
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| 100177 (13hp) | I'm not sure if there's a charcoal canister in there too, but the leak detection sensor and filter are located behind the passenger tire in the tire well. Simply remove the tire and well cover to get there.
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| babygirl04 (725hp) | Quote: Originally posted by geminiys I'm not sure if there's a charcoal canister there too, but the leak detection sensor and filter are located behind the rear passenger tire in the tire well. Simply remove the tire and well cover to get there. Thank you ! I'm actually looking for the leak detection pump, thanks for the info ! 👍,🏻,😉,
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| james6 (142hp) | Get an error code??
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| 03081987 (656hp) | Quote: Originally posted by TZ Getting an error code? Yes error code 190302 from the Carly BMW app.
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| s666666 (28hp) | Quote: Originally written by humbertob Thank you! I'm actually looking for the leak detection pump, thanks for the info! 👍,🏻,😉, I think on old BMWs it used to be called Purge Valve. It is located behind the passenger's rear tire in the tire well. It is a leak detection pump that needs to be replaced along with the filter. There are two types and depending on the model year you may have one or the other. Check this before purchasing one.
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| yellow69 (380hp) | Quote: Originally written by humbertob Yes error code 190302 from the Carly BMW app. I had a similar problem (code 190302) and went to the dealer four times. Finally the dealer replaced the DMTL module to solve the problem. Luckily it was still under warranty.
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| bebe10 (398hp) | Have you ever been able to solve this problem? I have the same code and don't know where to start
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| 060885 (634hp) | Quote: Originally posted by khanmohammed I own a 2016 BMW 528i that includes all packages except M-Sport and Cold Weather. But I added the M sport wheel and heated steering. MSRP is $64,000 and mileage is approximately 40,000 miles. I looked at the value now and it looks like I only get $26,000??? No accident or damage and I am the second owner so I don't understand why the 528i depreciates so much. If you look at your car's trade value, it's probably $18,000 to $20,000. I'm not sure how you arrived at $26,000. See https://www.kbb.com/bmw/5-series/201 ...e|6886730|true
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| nice (221hp) | Yeah, I'm not sure how he calculated that. My brother recently purchased a nearly fully loaded 535i from a dealer that has just under 30,000 miles on it. He paid about 26,000. You'd think the dealer wouldn't have paid more than $22,000 for this car.
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| 270382 (459hp) | Quote: Originally posted by AmooManiak Yeah, I'm not sure how he calculated that. My brother recently purchased a nearly fully loaded 535i from a dealer that has just under 30,000 miles on it. He paid about 26,000. You'd think the dealer wouldn't have paid more than $22,000 for this car. More like $15,000 or less!
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| 070491 (991hp) | Dealers like to use Black Book numbers, which in my experience are several thousand lower than NADA guides (used by states to tax vehicle values) or other values. Supposedly it's a price guide that reflects current auction prices for cars.
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| 2110 (139hp) | Quote: Originally posted by khanmohammed I own a 2016 BMW 528i that includes all packages except M-Sport and Cold Weather. But I added the M sport wheel and heated steering. MSRP is $64,000 and mileage is approximately 40,000 miles. I looked at the value now and it looks like I only get $26,000??? No accident or damage and I am the second owner so I don't understand why the 528i depreciates so much. If you look at your car's trade value, it's probably $18,000 to $20,000. I'm not sure how you arrived at $26,000. See https://www.kbb.com/bmw/5-series/201 ...e|6886730|true
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| 230594 (999hp) | Yeah, I'm not sure how he calculated that. My brother recently purchased a nearly fully loaded 535i from a dealer that has just under 30,000 miles on it. He paid about 26,000. You'd think the dealer wouldn't have paid more than $22,000 for this car.
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| charmed! (826hp) | Quote: Originally posted by AmooManiak Yeah, I'm not sure how he calculated that. My brother recently purchased a nearly fully loaded 535i from a dealer that has just under 30,000 miles on it. He paid about 26,000. You'd think the dealer wouldn't have paid more than $22,000 for this car. More like $15,000 or less!
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| 13061982 (614hp) | Dealers like to use Black Book numbers, which in my experience are several thousand lower than NADA guides (used by states to tax vehicle values) or other values. Supposedly it's a price guide that reflects current auction prices for cars.
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| jerk (193hp) | MY16 535i. I hear a clicking noise behind the dashboard. Only seems to occur when the air conditioning is on. When I adjust the dashboard air conditioning vents the pitch changes so it seems like it's coming from the air conditioning. It comes and goes and sometimes I hear a quick click, then silence for several minutes. Doesn't appear to be any blades in the fan motor as I've heard that noise before. I've spoken to the workshop manager about it and he's willing to get involved. Sounds like the first step is to repair the fan motor and make sure that's not where it's coming from. He tells me if not, the next step is to remove the dash and check the actuators on the vent box. Sounds like a big task and I'm wondering if I should just live with the clicking if it's not the fan. Thoughts? Everyone experiences the same thing?
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| traci1 (617hp) | Sounds like a damper actuator in the HVAC system may be stuck causing it to click when it tries to move.
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| feanor (869hp) | Quote: Originally posted by graphite Sounds like a damper actuator in the HVAC system may be stuck, causing it to click when it tries to move. I'm afraid that's it. However, this requires removing the dashboard for repair. I'm worried about new problems as I try to solve this problem. Of course the dealer says we do this every day.....
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| sunnyboy1 (913hp) | Quote: Originally written by claykin MY16 535i. I hear a clicking noise behind the dashboard. Only seems to occur when the air conditioning is on. When I adjust the dashboard air conditioning vents the pitch changes so it seems like it's coming from the air conditioning. It comes and goes and sometimes I hear a quick click, then silence for several minutes. Doesn't appear to be any blades in the fan motor as I've heard that noise before. I've spoken to the workshop manager about it and he's willing to get involved. Sounds like the first step is to repair the fan motor and make sure that's not where it's coming from. He tells me if not, the next step is to remove the dash and check the actuators on the vent box. Sounds like a big task and I'm wondering if I should just live with the clicking if it's not the fan. Thoughts? Has anyone experienced the same thing? Have you recently had a thermostat replacement? ?
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| franziska (757hp) | Quote: Originally posted by cartechfreak Quote: Originally posted by claykin MY16 535i. I hear a clicking noise behind the dashboard. Only seems to occur when the air conditioning is on. When I adjust the dashboard air conditioning vents the pitch changes so it seems like it's coming from the air conditioning. It comes and goes and sometimes I hear a quick click, then silence for several minutes. Doesn't appear to be any blades in the fan motor as I've heard that noise before. I've spoken to the workshop manager about it and he's willing to get involved. Sounds like the first step is to repair the fan motor and make sure that's not where it's coming from. He tells me if not, the next step is to remove the dash and check the actuators on the vent box. Sounds like a big task and I'm wondering if I should just live with the clicking if it's not the fan. Thoughts? Has anyone experienced the same thing? Have you recently had a thermostat replacement? No. Just when servicing the car, the oil and iStep levels were updated to fix the trunk not always opening fully. Clicking occurred before and after service.
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| 250250 (336hp) | I've heard a clicking noise in my 535 before but wasn't sure what it was. After reading your description I suspect I have the same problem. I haven't noticed it lately, but maybe I've gotten used to it and turned it off. I'll have to listen to it again and also try changing the pitch when I adjust the dashboard vents. (You're talking about the wheels that adjust the dashboard vent temperature between hot and cold, right?)
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| wzj519 (932hp) | Quote: Originally posted by 808_F10 I've heard a clicking noise in my 535 before but wasn't sure what it was... after reading your description I suspect I'm having the same problem. I haven't noticed it lately, but maybe I've gotten used to it and turned it off. I'll have to listen to it again and also try changing the pitch when I adjust the dashboard vents. (You're talking about the dials that adjust the temperature of the dashboard vents between hot and cold, right?) I adjust the vents using the two-arrow button on the air conditioning control panel. switches from the dashboard to the floor, to the windshield, etc..
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| jenn5366 (539hp) | I myself have a problem with the clicking noise coming from the dashboard on my 16 528i. It is a repetitive sound described by 31 clicks, a pause, another click, then another, and another 31 clicks repeat forever! I'm going crazy! I will give this car to the next homeless person if he can stand this nightmarish noise?
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