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Username: Message:
oluwa (791hp) It really depends on your driving style, type of riding and conditions. Can't tell what it should be..

yomom1 (401hp) Thanks for the information By the way, when can I change the first oil?

03091980 (229hp) Quote: Originally posted by EdwardK Thanks for the info By the way, when can I change the first oil? When your car tells you

15091991 (860hp) I'm going to work this morning. Not too bad for an M5 in traffic .....

RespectTheGC (968hp) 2012 535I.......12 mpg. City. Melody JB4....eeeeeek

bryant8 (240hp) ^ same air to get 13 mpg. I feel you, and the gasoline shortage caused by the hurricane doesn't help to sigh..

210185 (407hp) What is jb4?

26071988 (115hp) So it'll be fine, right? I usually drive 80% in the city and 20% on the highway. I'm afraid there is a problem with the engine or fuel pump.

260286 (293hp) will it be better if I have more kilometers? are you sure? there are so many hills in Seattle and will that be the problem?

serenade (488hp) It really depends on your driving style, type of riding and conditions. Can't tell what it should be..

falcon10 (981hp) Thanks for the information. By the way, when can I change the first oil ??

paul23 (28hp) Quote: Originally posted by EdwardK Thanks for the info By the way, when can I change the first oil? When your car tells you

filippo1 (229hp) I'm going to work this morning. Not too bad for an M5 in traffic .....

psalm139 (310hp) 2012 535I.......12 mpg. City. Melody JB4....eeeeeek

andrew02 (643hp) ^ same air to get 13 mpg. I feel you, and the gasoline shortage caused by the hurricane doesn't help to sigh..

daman513 (319hp) What is jb4?

jealous1 (396hp) Hey guys, I'm from post e90 but my dad owns an f10. So being the big son that I am, I continued my modding on his car. All IND parts (painted grilles/gills/reflectors). I have a problem with my work. The right front reflector, I didn't scrape off all the glue from the old one. And it made it look like the reflector was pushed in. Any ideas? Just take 3M adhesive? Thanks in advance

ihavedrivenanm1 (385hp) I would just buy the grills. Ordinary paints cannot withstand rock chips.

ilovej (112hp) I believe they are secured with 3m molding tape similar to this http://www.amazon.com/3M-Company-Mol...+moulding+tape You should be able to find it in your area local automobile or auto parts store..

070795 (719hp) I bought a used set of clear front side reflectors. Before installing them, I removed the old adhesive and applied new double sided tape purchased from the local hardware store. Easy stuff.

violator (326hp) Hey guys, I'm from post e90 but my dad owns an f10. So being the big son that I am, I continued my modding on his car. All IND parts (painted grilles/gills/reflectors). I have a problem with my work. The right front reflector, I didn't scrape off all the glue from the old one. And it made it look like the reflector was pushed in. Any ideas? Just take 3M adhesive? Thanks in advance

lovebug22 (814hp) I would just buy the grills. Ordinary paints cannot withstand rock chips.

eagles5 (222hp) I believe they are secured with 3m molding tape similar to this http://www.amazon.com/3M-Company-Mol...+moulding+tape You should be able to find it in your area local automobile or auto parts store..

ronnie01 (567hp) I bought a used set of clear front side reflectors. Before installing them, I removed the old adhesive and applied new double sided tape purchased from the local hardware store. Easy stuff.

roxane (929hp) Does anyone know what the dealer markup is on BMW extended warranties and maintenance upgrade? THANKS!

aaliyah7 (548hp) Does anyone know what the dealer markup is on BMW extended warranties and maintenance upgrade? THANKS!

negative1 (197hp) Has anyone experienced any issues with the above? On several occasions I found that it indicated an incorrect speed limit, despite the obvious presence of normally placed warning signs. I'm at the point now where I don't trust it anymore.

marios (341hp) My speed limit function works pretty well, I haven't detected it yet. HighlandPete

hamradio (919hp) Quote: Originally posted by HighlandPete My speed limit feature works pretty well, I haven't figured it out yet. HighlandPete Thanks for the response Pete. In case we are talking about two different systems, I am talking about the speed limit sign recognition camera, which displays the limit either on the HUD or on the dashboard and not on the speed limiter (button on the left branch of the steering wheel). Well done, Jon

250979 (406hp) Yes, the same function. HighlandPete

swiper (47hp) Mine is unreliable when existing speed limits are overridden (black and white signs), so the default speed limit for the relevant road type will apply again, but quite reliable with new speed limits using red border panels.

dotty1 (164hp) Mine doesn't work well, especially when multiple speed limits on multiple traffic lanes are present. I just can't trust it.

99999a (575hp) wow, that's at least a nice feature in concept

120374 (777hp) Quote: Posted by Jon D Has anyone had any problems with the above? On several occasions I found that it indicated an incorrect speed limit, despite the obvious presence of normally placed warning signs. I'm at the point now where I don't trust it anymore. No problem with mine

lilmama13 (335hp) Here's how it works (or at least that's what I've read and my experience confirms it): 1) Speed ​​data is taken from your F10's browser maps 2) The front camera scans any signs you bypass 3) if 1 and 2 match, then the data is displayed in your HUD. If they don't, you see an empty circle crossed out. I believe this is true, because here in Bulgaria I don't get any information about speed limits, no matter how clear the sign is. I hope that with the Navi 2012 update there will be information about speed signs, but unfortunately this is not the case. In Germany, on the other hand, it works perfectly, knows all the speed signs and alerts accordingly..

loveman (456hp) in the UK I think it's generally OK, although not 100%. Sometimes it will show the wrong speed for a road, for example 20 or 60 on a 30 mph road. It can also detect signs on parallel roads such as on-ramps on or off a highway or expressway. It also detects variable speed signs on the M25 gantries. I've only seen it display speed limits here in the UK and I assume that's all it's set up for. Does it show anything else? I've seen photos where 2 signs are displayed - I think for Germany, so maybe its 2 signs related to the speed limit? Please with this and I have set it to show on the HUD.

11061979 (225hp) Mine works great, make sure there is no dirt blocking the view.

iloveme5 (345hp) If the windshield had been replaced today, the speed limit display now works correctly.

johnrey (616hp) Quote: Originally posted by Copello The mine does not work well, especially when multiple speed limits on multiple traffic lanes are present. I just can't trust it. Same problem here in Sweden. Sometimes (but not often) it even shows an incorrect speed limit on a country road with clear signs...maybe it has to do with the GPS and not the camera.?

220983 (53hp) Has anyone experienced any issues with the above? On several occasions I found that it indicated an incorrect speed limit, despite the obvious presence of normally placed warning signs. I'm at the point now where I don't trust it anymore.

lmao12 (998hp) My speed limit function works pretty well, I haven't detected it yet. HighlandPete

realdeal1 (941hp) Quote: Originally posted by HighlandPete My speed limit feature works pretty well, I haven't figured it out yet. HighlandPete Thanks for the response Pete. In case we are talking about two different systems, I am talking about the speed limit sign recognition camera, which displays the limit either on the HUD or on the dashboard and not on the speed limiter (button on the left branch of the steering wheel). Well done, Jon

speedster02 (196hp) Yes, the same function. HighlandPete

070489 (614hp) Mine is unreliable when existing speed limits are overridden (black and white signs), so the default speed limit for the relevant road type will apply again, but quite reliable with new speed limits using red border panels.

alecia (459hp) Mine doesn't work well, especially when multiple speed limits on multiple traffic lanes are present. I just can't trust it.

marie1234 (897hp) wow, that's at least a nice feature in concept

group (484hp) Quote: Posted by Jon D Has anyone had any problems with the above? On several occasions I found that it indicated an incorrect speed limit, despite the obvious presence of normally placed warning signs. I'm at the point now where I don't trust it anymore. No problem with mine

troll (572hp) Here's how it works (or at least that's what I've read and my experience confirms it): 1) Speed ​​data is taken from your F10's browser maps 2) The front camera scans any signs you bypass 3) if 1 and 2 match, then the data is displayed in your HUD. If they don't, you see an empty circle crossed out. I believe this is true, because here in Bulgaria I don't get any information about speed limits, no matter how clear the sign is. I hope that with the Navi 2012 update there will be information about speed signs, but unfortunately this is not the case. In Germany, on the other hand, it works perfectly, knows all the speed signs and alerts accordingly..

robertino (368hp) in the UK I think it's generally OK, although not 100%. Sometimes it will show the wrong speed for a road, for example 20 or 60 on a 30 mph road. It can also detect signs on parallel roads such as on-ramps on or off a highway or expressway. It also detects variable speed signs on the M25 gantries. I've only seen it display speed limits here in the UK and I assume that's all it's set up for. Does it show anything else? I've seen photos where 2 signs are displayed - I think for Germany, so maybe its 2 signs related to the speed limit? Please with this and I have set it to show on the HUD.

kjayroe (671hp) Mine works great, make sure there is no dirt blocking the view.

199800 (588hp) If the windshield had been replaced today, the speed limit display now works correctly.

qscwdv (892hp) Quote: Originally posted by Copello The mine does not work well, especially when multiple speed limits on multiple traffic lanes are present. I just can't trust it. Same problem here in Sweden. Sometimes (but not often) it even shows an incorrect speed limit on a country road with clear signs...maybe it has to do with the GPS and not the camera.?

sexy89 (689hp) Has anyone ever tried installing the M6 ​​Sports steering wheel with paddle shifters on an F10? Any problems? THANKS.

tinytim (149hp) same thoughts I have. It was hard.

bitch27 (475hp) I would like to say that it is electrically incompatible. Same reason (I believe) why the M Performance wheel that is optional on the F10 will not work on the F10 M5.

cbr600 (485hp) I see the F30 M-Sport has similar steering wheels so it would be a shame not to be able to retrofit it to an F10. It's such a beautiful steering wheel, in my opinion.

a246810 (14hp) I don't see how it isn't electrically compatible, seeing as it has the same buttons, except the M1 and M2 buttons (they probably wouldn't do anything, at worst you'll have to rewire the left part to match your car). The biggest problem is the new airbag = $$$. So as long as your car has paddles, I'd say it's plug & play. you might also need the new cover for the top and bottom of the steering, and depending on where the paddle is attached, a new part that connects all the wires from the steering to the body..

cobradac (159hp) Quote: Originally posted by Losco I don't see how it isn't electrically compatible, seeing as it has the same buttons, except for the M1 and M2 buttons (they probably wouldn't do anything, at worst you will need to rewire the left part to match your car). The biggest problem is the new airbag = $$$. So as long as your car has paddles, I'd say it's plug & play. you might also need the new cover for the top and bottom of the steering, and depending on where the paddle is attached, a new part that connects all the wires from the steering to the body. My source was a product manager at M GmbH. Differences in the LIN bus or something like that. The F10 M5 will switch to this steering wheel next year. And it costs around $2,500-$2,700 for all the parts needed for the renovation..

Bimrider (588hp) Modern cars are equipped with CAN/LIN BUS, which means that it is not as easy as it once was to retrofit items. Before, you could wire and connect your fog lights, trailer hitch, contacts, etc. yourself. Today, these components must be coded (programmed) into the car's electrical system to function. So, unless the electrical components and connections etc. are damaged. are identical between the two steering wheels, this will not work without coding etc...

fuckuall (578hp) Has anyone ever tried installing the M6 ​​Sports steering wheel with paddle shifters on an F10? Any problems? THANKS.

fdsfds (287hp) same thoughts I have. It was hard.

05111983 (57hp) I would like to say that it is electrically incompatible. Same reason (I believe) why the M Performance wheel that is optional on the F10 will not work on the F10 M5.

acoolda (800hp) I see the F30 M-Sport has similar steering wheels so it would be a shame not to be able to retrofit it to an F10. It's such a beautiful steering wheel, in my opinion.

7e9lNk3fc01 (862hp) I don't see how it isn't electrically compatible, seeing as it has the same buttons, except the M1 and M2 buttons (they probably wouldn't do anything, at worst you'll have to rewire the left part to match your car). The biggest problem is the new airbag = $$$. So as long as your car has paddles, I'd say it's plug & play. you might also need the new cover for the top and bottom of the steering, and depending on where the paddle is attached, a new part that connects all the wires from the steering to the body..

davinchi (392hp) Quote: Originally posted by Losco I don't see how it isn't electrically compatible, seeing as it has the same buttons, except for the M1 and M2 buttons (they probably wouldn't do anything, at worst you will need to rewire the left part to match your car). The biggest problem is the new airbag = $$$. So as long as your car has paddles, I'd say it's plug & play. you might also need the new cover for the top and bottom of the steering, and depending on where the paddle is attached, a new part that connects all the wires from the steering to the body. My source was a product manager at M GmbH. Differences in the LIN bus or something like that. The F10 M5 will switch to this steering wheel next year. And it costs around $2,500-$2,700 for all the parts needed for the renovation..

tequieromucho (920hp) Modern cars are equipped with CAN/LIN BUS, which means that it is not as easy as it once was to retrofit items. Before, you could wire and connect your fog lights, trailer hitch, contacts, etc. yourself. Today, these components must be coded (programmed) into the car's electrical system to function. So, unless the electrical components and connections etc. are damaged. are identical between the two steering wheels, this will not work without coding etc...

bobobo1 (764hp) I'm still confused about the break-in? Can anyone explain this? I'm new here

770077 (713hp) This is a period of time on new cars when you're supposed to take it easy..

280590 (350hp) how many kilometers for break-in? what happens after the break-in?

01041992 (649hp) Here's a fairly long discussion on the subject - http://www.myturbodiesel.com/1000q/engine-break-in.htm. The most important tip from the article is this: My suggestion is to follow the owner's manual written by the people who made your car. Check your owner's manual index to find break-in procedures.

300483 (515hp) Quote: Posted by EdwardK I'm still confused about the burglary? Can anyone explain this? I'm a newbie here. The first few hundred miles of the car's life, take it easy. No sudden acceleration and braking. All the moving parts of the car take a few hundred equivalent city miles to mate (wear) evenly and properly (i.e. gears, clutch, brakes, brake shoes). engine, etc.). After 5,000 miles, get an oil change at BMW and then you can drive as hard as you want. I know it's not necessary to change the oil between the recommended intervals, I do it anyway. It's cheap insurance against engine wear.

jamaika (256hp) Quote: Originally posted by m6pwr Here is a fairly long discussion on the subject - http://www.myturbodiesel.com/1000q/engine-break-in.htm. The most important tip from the article is this: My suggestion is to follow the owner's manual written by the people who made your car. Consult the index of your owner's manual to find break-in procedures. During my tour of the BMW factory, the guide said that BMW does not test every engine or even run the engine before installation. To save money, they only do a simple pressure test, so I have some doubts about the accuracy of the linked article. If the engines were factory tested, I would consider following the break-in procedure. Since BMW doesn't do this first step, I break in my engines under load, which normally means 150 mph on the highway. I know this goes against BMW's recommendations in the manual, but I do what works for me. BTW, burning oil should not be considered normal for a BMW.

199199 (791hp) There is no modern evidence that an oil change before BMW indicates (after 30,000 km) is better for the engine. These assumptions are based on old-fashioned engine maintenance. Driving the car for its first thousand miles without unnecessarily overloading the moving parts allows the engine parts to adjust properly, that is, without unwanted wear. A new, fully warmed-up BMW engine will hold up to a stretch of highway at top speed, but what works for d is not a recommendation from BMW. Or any other engine builder I know. Some new cars burn a little oil the first thousand miles, so check your levels and top up if you ask. Most BMWs do not continue to burn oil, if any, after they have been broken in..

davidwarren (411hp) To d, man, you're right, when you do ED. Of course, you'll want to fully test the new baby. So if the 150 mph highway test fails, let's say you blow the engine with it, you leave the wreck in Bavaria instead of hauling a bunch of useless garbage to the US. Everyone should do it this way!

london22 (458hp) What if I can't beat my car during break-in? How many kilometers for break-in? 5000 miles?

SlammedR8 (383hp) Quote: Posted by EdwardK If I can't beat my car during break-in? How many kilometers for break-in? 5000 miles? It's like a new girlfriend, when you start the relationship by taking the stick from the start you will very quickly end up with a nasty bitch. In the manual you will find the running time, it is less than 5k. My F11 was broken in and drove freely after 2,000 km.

yesica (156hp) I just saw the manual, it says 1200 miles. Now it's 660 miles. I just beat my car last week because I was in a hurry. Will it be okay? I'm afraid it will be worse. One more question, I get 17-18 mpg in the city and will it get better after the braking period is over?

261080 (220hp) Mpg depends on driving style, normally fuel efficiency increases a little after the engine has been driven a little longer. I wouldn't worry about your engine, or did you get any alarms while running it last week? Otherwise, forget all that and enjoy your new car. Rtfm, you will learn lots of things to enjoy your car even more.

pasha123 (309hp) No, I didn't understand. I really enjoy my car, I really love the F10!!!! I get 17-18 mpg in the city because there are so many hills in Seattle, right? I got 16mpg today it's so sad

rcust (383hp) Quote: Originally posted by F11-Diesel To d, man, you're right, when you do ED. Of course, you'll want to fully test the new baby. So if the 150 mph highway test fails, let's say you blow the engine with it, you leave the wreck in Bavaria instead of hauling a bunch of useless garbage to the US. Everyone should do this! I've wrecked my last three cars on the highway. If the engine isn't ready for the highway, then it's not ready for me. The nice thing is that if there was a major failure, I wouldn't need to wait for parts to be shipped from Germany..

1love (872hp) Quote: Posted by dunderhi I have wrecked my last three cars on the highway. If the engine isn't ready for the highway, then it's not ready for me. The nice thing is that if there was a major failure, I wouldn't need to wait for parts to be shipped from Germany. Back in the good old days, BMW 2002s came from Germany with a large outward-facing sticker on the rear window saying Break-in - - probably to alert the lead feet behind them not to run over the pussy feet in front. Then, for a long time, BMW had break-in instructions (basically the same as today) on a sticker in the upper left corner of the windshield for the driver's edification. Now, BMW has the procedure buried in the owner's manual (which virtually no one reads). This gradual evolution of the lapping procedure is likely a reflection of today's greatly improved manufacturing and machining processes, which minimize the need for careful lapping. FWIW, the link I gave was to an article on a VW diesel forum. VW manufactures the TDI diesel at its Wolfsburg plant not only for all variants of VW diesel cars, but also for Audi, Skoda and Seat. I don't know the total production number, but it would be impossible for VW to break in all of these engines at the factory. Someone who visited the factory told me that they only run the US-bound diesels on a dyno - out of respect for our speed and road safety laws which would prohibit the break-in of diesels here at highway speeds. They run American diesel engines at full throttle until blue smoke begins to leak from every orifice and pore, at which point the engine is said to be broken in..

gamble1 (480hp) one more question, what happens once the break period is over? I want to know how my friend gets 20 city MPG with the 2012 535i xrive, but I get 17 city MPG with the 2013 528i xrive (I bought it a month ago)? we have the same driving style

pitcher1 (158hp) Quote: Posted by EdwardK one more question, what happens once the break period is over? I want to know how my friend gets 20 city MPG with the 2012 535i xrive, but I get 17 city MPG with the 2013 528i xrive (I bought it a month ago)? we have the same driving style. How about swapping cars for a week and seeing if you actually have the same driving style.

rbudiman (475hp) Quote: Posted by m6pwr The most important advice in the article is this: My suggestion is to NOT follow the owner's manual written by the LAWYERS representing the people who made your car. I fixed it for you. To the OP. I would drive it the same way you intend to drive the car after the magic break-in period. If failing to follow the break-in procedures outlined in the manual actually caused damage to your car, the world would be littered with broken-down cars on the side of the road because most owners don't even know what break-in means , and even fewer read their owner's manual..

29041987 (914hp) yeah, that's what I'm planning. am I right if I get the worst MPG because the 528i is heavier than the 535i and it also has smaller HP than the 535i?

tucker3 (133hp) Quote: Posted by EdwardK I'm still confused about the burglary? Can anyone explain this? I'm a newbie here. In English, it's called Roding-in.

gateway5 (90hp) Sorry, my English is bad

04051985 (958hp) I'm still confused about the break-in? Can anyone explain this? I'm new here

varfeevich (399hp) This is a period of time on new cars when you're supposed to take it easy..

jamie11 (32hp) how many kilometers for break-in? what happens after the break-in?

Penguin1 (803hp) Here's a fairly long discussion on the subject - http://www.myturbodiesel.com/1000q/engine-break-in.htm. The most important tip from the article is this: My suggestion is to follow the owner's manual written by the people who made your car. Check your owner's manual index to find break-in procedures.

zizou10 (312hp) Quote: Posted by EdwardK I'm still confused about the burglary? Can anyone explain this? I'm a newbie here. The first few hundred miles of the car's life, take it easy. No sudden acceleration and braking. All the moving parts of the car take a few hundred equivalent city miles to mate (wear) evenly and properly (i.e. gears, clutch, brakes, brake shoes). engine, etc.). After 5,000 miles, get an oil change at BMW and then you can drive as hard as you want. I know it's not necessary to change the oil between the recommended intervals, I do it anyway. It's cheap insurance against engine wear.

m_alnimah (50hp) Quote: Originally posted by m6pwr Here is a fairly long discussion on the subject - http://www.myturbodiesel.com/1000q/engine-break-in.htm. The most important tip from the article is this: My suggestion is to follow the owner's manual written by the people who made your car. Consult the index of your owner's manual to find break-in procedures. During my tour of the BMW factory, the guide said that BMW does not test every engine or even run the engine before installation. To save money, they only do a simple pressure test, so I have some doubts about the accuracy of the linked article. If the engines were factory tested, I would consider following the break-in procedure. Since BMW doesn't do this first step, I break in my engines under load, which normally means 150 mph on the highway. I know this goes against BMW's recommendations in the manual, but I do what works for me. BTW, burning oil should not be considered normal for a BMW.

pink24 (90hp) There is no modern evidence that an oil change before BMW indicates (after 30,000 km) is better for the engine. These assumptions are based on old-fashioned engine maintenance. Driving the car for its first thousand miles without unnecessarily overloading the moving parts allows the engine parts to adjust properly, that is, without unwanted wear. A new, fully warmed-up BMW engine will hold up to a stretch of highway at top speed, but what works for d is not a recommendation from BMW. Or any other engine builder I know. Some new cars burn a little oil the first thousand miles, so check your levels and top up if you ask. Most BMWs do not continue to burn oil, if any, after they have been broken in..

nene12 (910hp) To d, man, you're right, when you do ED. Of course, you'll want to fully test the new baby. So if the 150 mph highway test fails, let's say you blow the engine with it, you leave the wreck in Bavaria instead of hauling a bunch of useless garbage to the US. Everyone should do it this way!

240983 (406hp) What if I can't beat my car during break-in? How many kilometers for break-in? 5000 miles?

nikita98 (604hp) Quote: Posted by EdwardK If I can't beat my car during break-in? How many kilometers for break-in? 5000 miles? It's like a new girlfriend, when you start the relationship by taking the stick from the start you will very quickly end up with a nasty bitch. In the manual you will find the running time, it is less than 5k. My F11 was broken in and drove freely after 2,000 km.

01111989 (10hp) I just saw the manual, it says 1200 miles. Now it's 660 miles. I just beat my car last week because I was in a hurry. Will it be okay? I'm afraid it will be worse. One more question, I get 17-18 mpg in the city and will it get better after the braking period is over?

moshkin1998 (992hp) Mpg depends on driving style, normally fuel efficiency increases a little after the engine has been driven a little longer. I wouldn't worry about your engine, or did you get any alarms while running it last week? Otherwise, forget all that and enjoy your new car. Rtfm, you will learn lots of things to enjoy your car even more.

gkee (241hp) No, I didn't understand. I really enjoy my car, I really love the F10!!!! I get 17-18 mpg in the city because there are so many hills in Seattle, right? I got 16mpg today it's so sad

afairfax (495hp) Quote: Originally posted by F11-Diesel To d, man, you're right, when you do ED. Of course, you'll want to fully test the new baby. So if the 150 mph highway test fails, let's say you blow the engine with it, you leave the wreck in Bavaria instead of hauling a bunch of useless garbage to the US. Everyone should do this! I've wrecked my last three cars on the highway. If the engine isn't ready for the highway, then it's not ready for me. The nice thing is that if there was a major failure, I wouldn't need to wait for parts to be shipped from Germany..

junebug1 (443hp) Quote: Posted by dunderhi I have wrecked my last three cars on the highway. If the engine isn't ready for the highway, then it's not ready for me. The nice thing is that if there was a major failure, I wouldn't need to wait for parts to be shipped from Germany. Back in the good old days, BMW 2002s came from Germany with a large outward-facing sticker on the rear window saying Break-in - - probably to alert the lead feet behind them not to run over the pussy feet in front. Then, for a long time, BMW had break-in instructions (basically the same as today) on a sticker in the upper left corner of the windshield for the driver's edification. Now, BMW has the procedure buried in the owner's manual (which virtually no one reads). This gradual evolution of the lapping procedure is likely a reflection of today's greatly improved manufacturing and machining processes, which minimize the need for careful lapping. FWIW, the link I gave was to an article on a VW diesel forum. VW manufactures the TDI diesel at its Wolfsburg plant not only for all variants of VW diesel cars, but also for Audi, Skoda and Seat. I don't know the total production number, but it would be impossible for VW to break in all of these engines at the factory. Someone who visited the factory told me that they only run the US-bound diesels on a dyno - out of respect for our speed and road safety laws which would prohibit the break-in of diesels here at highway speeds. They run American diesel engines at full throttle until blue smoke begins to leak from every orifice and pore, at which point the engine is said to be broken in..

girlss (839hp) one more question, what happens once the break period is over? I want to know how my friend gets 20 city MPG with the 2012 535i xrive, but I get 17 city MPG with the 2013 528i xrive (I bought it a month ago)? we have the same driving style

mother21 (251hp) Quote: Posted by EdwardK one more question, what happens once the break period is over? I want to know how my friend gets 20 city MPG with the 2012 535i xrive, but I get 17 city MPG with the 2013 528i xrive (I bought it a month ago)? we have the same driving style. How about swapping cars for a week and seeing if you actually have the same driving style.

taka4707 (477hp) Quote: Posted by m6pwr The most important advice in the article is this: My suggestion is to NOT follow the owner's manual written by the LAWYERS representing the people who made your car. I fixed it for you. To the OP. I would drive it the same way you intend to drive the car after the magic break-in period. If failing to follow the break-in procedures outlined in the manual actually caused damage to your car, the world would be littered with broken-down cars on the side of the road because most owners don't even know what break-in means , and even fewer read their owner's manual..

kukuku (971hp) yeah, that's what I'm planning. am I right if I get the worst MPG because the 528i is heavier than the 535i and it also has smaller HP than the 535i?

110592 (618hp) Quote: Posted by EdwardK I'm still confused about the burglary? Can anyone explain this? I'm a newbie here. In English, it's called Roding-in.

1234aaaa (307hp) Sorry, my English is bad

haiti1 (49hp) Well I finally finished my walk! I've taken it to a place that makes me happy and, in my opinion, it still remains stylish. Here's the list - gloss black kidney grilles, rear and front reflector delete, gloss black fender light trim (all from JB Speed) - 20 Vossen VVS CV2 - 18% carbon tint - black painted lower front mesh shiny to match the grilles - ACS springs (no noise and rides better than I could have imagined with the perfect drop) -550 rams this week -Tru Audio amp with 12 sub audio JL All work on the car was done by California Customs in South Florida. Incredible work! Thanks for all the help and advice to bring it up to standard. I hope you like the photos.

flavorguy (235hp) Wow I love the way it sits, the perfect drop and the rims look great, good choice

monika12 (793hp) Thanks man! Very happy with this.

madlen (486hp) It looks awesome. I love the color. How much did the gloss black fender light trim cost? I'm deciding whether to have mine painted or buy them ready-made..

Spartak (627hp) I believe $90 shipped. It takes time to go through JB but the product is good.

surf12 (764hp) he looks really sick!

a burrito (698hp) Very clean!!!

Creynolds (535hp) Sweet ride.....everything looks HOT!!!

spiike32 (111hp) Very kind, sir.

111964 (686hp) It looks good

megmeg (7hp) Very slippery! I love the way she sits. How are the springs in comfort mode? Are they too stiff at highway speeds? And how did you set up the 12 JL Audio Sub? I have a nice JL audio amp (HD7500/1) that I want to use but haven't been able to figure out how to mount the sub without going too crazy. I just want a nice base filler. Please share photos if you can. These photos are superb! Well done, congratulations on everything

did (395hp) Thanks for the love guys. To me the springs feel exactly the same as the Msport ones. I was worried they wouldn't make it, but it's been great. The main difference is that the car feels more grounded. It hugs the road more and corners like a sports car. All modes ride the same and I alternated between comfort and sport+. I can't really take pictures of the sub because it's behind a beauty board in the trunk of the car. I had a ported box built for the 12 because I wanted the same thing as you. Just a little more bottom when the windows are down and you want to hear it drop. It wasn't a crazy setup. I grew a box out of the back of the trunk and then covered it. Cut the trunk in two but give me what I wanted.

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