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| Smokey (959hp) | Broski is no big deal. Get a 3 meter headlight restoration kit and use it to polish the edges like you would with headlights. I promise it will work. I used them for carbon fiber propellers on my 170cc 40% 3D giant aircraft. I'm sure you got it cheap, so while it won't have the quality of BMW performance parts, it's better than returning it and waiting forever for an exchange or refund. You can get 20-pound, 10-foot tape at Home Depot.
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| eybdthcbntn (972hp) | I just wanted to find out if this is normal or if I should request a replacement spoiler. At the beginning of August I ordered a BMW CF Carbon Fiber Performance Style rear spoiler for my F10. Today I finally received it. It came straight from Taiwan, I suspect that's where JBSpeed sources their products, no surprise there. In any case, see attached pictures. The edges of the spoiler look like they are scratched. However, the surface is smooth around the edges, so it looks like a defect to me. In addition, the spoiler was delivered without double-sided tape. I waited over three weeks and my inquiries about the status of the shipment were answered by saying that the delay was because we didn't want to ship anything less than perfect. I simply attached the spoiler to the trunk and it is not attached to anything. Please let me know if you feel there are any imperfections in the images or that this is how it is meant to be. I ordered the spoiler from JBSpeed as many people recommended it as they are one of the sponsors of this website and should have good products. I'm not sure I would agree with that now. Thanks
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| sassy14 (356hp) | The best thing to do is to contact JBSpeed and inform them about the scratches. You are paying for a product and should receive a quality product with no scratches or defects. As for the double sided tape, no problem...as I would use 3m tape instead. Therefore, JBSpeed should receive the products first so that they can do quality control before going to the customer. Poor service on their behalf. Maybe they can get involved here?
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| asher1 (973hp) | This is what my OEM CF spoiler looks like, of course no scratches or other defects. It does cost more, but I really like the quality you get.
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| chanchal (389hp) | Yes indeed! That's the quality there is, remmib...you pay more but you get a quality product! But whatever the problem is? You can order from a website sponsor here, but I'm pretty sure you can also get these on eBay
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| dakota21 (545hp) | I can't say anything about the quality of the spoiler, but I ordered the black double slat kidney grilles from JBSpeed on August 18th and they finally arrived again yesterday directly from Taiwan. I didn't expect the delivery to take so long, I asked several times and was told to contact my local post office as there was nothing to do there. At this point, tracking revealed that the package had not yet cleared customs. I paid $125 for this, the slats are thin compared to the black OEM grills and the fit is good but not great. I ordered from them based solely on the feedback from this forum. I am quite disappointed with the whole experience and therefore will not order from them again.
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| santana2 (872hp) | Sorry to hear that! You are the first person to post a negative comment about the grill?
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| Vasilias09 (11hp) | Broski is no big deal. Get a 3 meter headlight restoration kit and use it to polish the edges like you would with headlights. I promise it will work. I used them for carbon fiber propellers on my 170cc 40% 3D giant aircraft. I'm sure you got it cheap, so while it won't have the quality of BMW performance parts, it's better than returning it and waiting forever for an exchange or refund. You can get 20-pound, 10-foot tape at Home Depot.
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| skater16 (518hp) | Everyone has the September money factor, balances and incentives for a 2016 550xi?
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| eeeboy (711hp) | Everyone has the September money factor, balances and incentives for a 2016 550xi?
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| azeqsdwxc (303hp) | Brand new 528 lease. High mileage lease and I expect to return it in three years with 50,000 to 60,000 miles. The OEM runflats will likely need to be replaced halfway through the rental period. What I'm debating is whether I should bite the bullet now and get top ratings all year round (no runflats), store these OEM runflats and put them back on when I drop them off OR whether I should give it a year and a I'll spend half the year dealing with these lousy run-flats and in 1.5 years I'll buy another, identical set and drive them until they give in. When it comes to actually enjoying the car on quality rubber, the choice seems obvious, but I'm wondering if it makes sense to run a car without run-flat tires without a spare tire... On the weekend I travel with my wife and my child, even if only short distances (< 100 miles). My decisions were also based on the assumption that I would have to trade in the car with the same OEM run-flats - is that correct? TIA
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| raleigh1 (361hp) | You must return the car with runflat capabilities and a minimum tread depth of 4/32 remaining. Your strategy depends on how much the runflats bother you and how much you want to spend. For ride quality, set the runflats aside and put them back in when turning after going through two sets of no runflats. Most of us stash mobility kits in the trunk that include a small 12-volt compressor and a can of tire slime (if needed). The kit fits in the small storage compartment on the right side of the trunk. I also have a tire patch kit with me. Realistically, if I ever have a problem I'll probably just call AAA. Some owners buy a compact spare wheel and keep it in the trunk, but of course this takes up space. If you want to wear the run flats a bit, I would do that first and then replace them while they still have 4/32 seconds left. Once you're running a good set of non-run-flat tires, you won't have any fun switching back to run-flat tires.
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| 17041994 (332hp) | Thanks. Why AAA and not the included BMW Roadside?
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| ichiro51 (22hp) | I would say get a set of tires (not RFT tires) and use those. Keep the run-flat tires so there are no headaches when returning the lease. For safety reasons, keep an M tire patch kit in the trunk.
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| classof2012 (910hp) | Quote: Originally posted by wheresmy5 Thanks. Why AAA and not the included BMW Roadside? Either one or Michelin roadside assistance.
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| nidgy70 (473hp) | I say: get new tires from the start. You can enjoy better tires and at the same time keep the originals for the lease return. If you use the run flats for a while initially, there is a risk of blisters forming on the sidewall and you will not be able to return the car with blisters (unless you have a tire dealer rotate the tire onto the rim before returning it) . I removed my Eagle LS2 and have Michelin PSS. There is a real difference in terms of smoothness and grip with the PSS tires, but they are a little louder.
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| 654321123456 (755hp) | Quote: Originally written by AVIMAX. I say: go with new tires from the start. You can enjoy better tires and at the same time keep the originals for the lease return. ......I removed my Eagle LS2 and have Michelin PSS. There is a real difference in terms of smoothness and grip with the PSS tires, but they are a little louder. +1 With rare exceptions perhaps (I haven't experienced them myself), life is too short to drive with OEM tires. With every car I've owned so far, the improvement has been significant once the OEMs are gone.
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| platini (249hp) | The same goes for everything mentioned above. I replaced my runflats and haven't regretted it. I have the Michelin PSS and love it. I don't notice the noise mentioned earlier. I like the idea of a patch kit in the trunk, but would call BMW or AAA if I got a flat tire, etc.
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| floriana (761hp) | Get a complete winter set (wheels and tires) for the winter months, which will extend the life of your current set and also give you better tires for the Northeast winter. Your mileage may be too high to mean you won't need to replace the All-Seasons at some point, but from the sounds of it you'll be doing that more than once anyway.
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| 030995 (216hp) | My plan is to buy Michelin PSS and keep the runflats as my winters. Extends the life of the runflats and minimizes the frequency with which I have to use them.
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| marinamarina (697hp) | Quote: Originally posted by spuntyb My plan is to buy Michelin PSS and keep the runflats as my winters. Extends the life of the runflats and minimizes the frequency with which I have to use them. I've thought about it, but these A/S runflats make really crappy winters if you've ever had a good winter set. It also means you have to buy a set of wheels, otherwise you will still have to fit and balance the stock wheels twice a year.
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| jupiter2 (63hp) | Quote: Originally posted by wheresmy5 Quote: Originally posted by spuntyb My plan is to buy Michelin PSS and keep the runflats as my winters. Extends the life of the runflats and minimizes the frequency with which I have to use them. I've thought about it, but these A/S runflats make really crappy winters if you've ever had a good winter set. It also means you have to buy a set of wheels, otherwise you will still have to fit and balance the stock wheels twice a year. Yes, the assembly/balancing is a bit annoying, but I have a good shop that can do it for me cheaply. The trade-off is that I can simply turn in these tires at the end of the lease, especially when I drive the car in. Otherwise, I would get a full set of winter tires/wheels and put some anti-run-flat rubber on your current wheels. As for the rubber, if you still want A/S the Continental DWS aren't bad, but otherwise just go for nice summer tires (e.g. PSS) with a repair kit in the trunk. I don't care about the kit and would just call service, but that's my opinion.
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| 200696 (217hp) | Brand new 528 lease. High mileage lease and I expect to return it in three years with 50,000 to 60,000 miles. The OEM runflats will likely need to be replaced halfway through the rental period. What I'm debating is whether I should bite the bullet now and get top ratings all year round (no runflats), store these OEM runflats and put them back on when I drop them off OR whether I should give it a year and a I'll spend half the year dealing with these lousy run-flats and in 1.5 years I'll buy another, identical set and drive them until they give in. When it comes to actually enjoying the car on quality rubber, the choice seems obvious, but I'm wondering if it makes sense to run a car without run-flat tires without a spare tire... On the weekend I travel with my wife and my child, even if only short distances (< 100 miles). My decisions were also based on the assumption that I would have to trade in the car with the same OEM run-flats - is that correct? TIA
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| 112006 (590hp) | You must return the car with runflat capabilities and a minimum tread depth of 4/32 remaining. Your strategy depends on how much the runflats bother you and how much you want to spend. For ride quality, set the runflats aside and put them back in when turning after going through two sets of no runflats. Most of us stash mobility kits in the trunk that include a small 12-volt compressor and a can of tire slime (if needed). The kit fits in the small storage compartment on the right side of the trunk. I also have a tire patch kit with me. Realistically, if I ever have a problem I'll probably just call AAA. Some owners buy a compact spare wheel and keep it in the trunk, but of course this takes up space. If you want to wear the run flats a bit, I would do that first and then replace them while they still have 4/32 seconds left. Once you're running a good set of non-run-flat tires, you won't have any fun switching back to run-flat tires.
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| bucks (742hp) | Thanks. Why AAA and not the included BMW Roadside?
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| mustang95 (389hp) | I would say get a set of tires (not RFT tires) and use those. Keep the run-flat tires so there are no headaches when returning the lease. For safety reasons, keep an M tire patch kit in the trunk.
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| 210285 (74hp) | Quote: Originally posted by wheresmy5 Thanks. Why AAA and not the included BMW Roadside? Either one or Michelin roadside assistance.
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| halcyon (339hp) | I say: get new tires from the start. You can enjoy better tires and at the same time keep the originals for the lease return. If you use the run flats for a while initially, there is a risk of blisters forming on the sidewall and you will not be able to return the car with blisters (unless you have a tire dealer rotate the tire onto the rim before returning it) . I removed my Eagle LS2 and have Michelin PSS. There is a real difference in terms of smoothness and grip with the PSS tires, but they are a little louder.
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| pe (570hp) | Quote: Originally written by AVIMAX. I say: go with new tires from the start. You can enjoy better tires and at the same time keep the originals for the lease return. ......I removed my Eagle LS2 and have Michelin PSS. There is a real difference in terms of smoothness and grip with the PSS tires, but they are a little louder. +1 With rare exceptions perhaps (I haven't experienced them myself), life is too short to drive with OEM tires. With every car I've owned so far, the improvement has been significant once the OEMs are gone.
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| Krystian_E46 (652hp) | The same goes for everything mentioned above. I replaced my runflats and haven't regretted it. I have the Michelin PSS and love it. I don't notice the noise mentioned earlier. I like the idea of a patch kit in the trunk, but would call BMW or AAA if I got a flat tire, etc.
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| matt14 (347hp) | Get a complete winter set (wheels and tires) for the winter months, which will extend the life of your current set and also give you better tires for the Northeast winter. Your mileage may be too high to mean you won't need to replace the All-Seasons at some point, but from the sounds of it you'll be doing that more than once anyway.
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| 198510 (532hp) | My plan is to buy Michelin PSS and keep the runflats as my winters. Extends the life of the runflats and minimizes the frequency with which I have to use them.
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| purple26 (95hp) | Quote: Originally posted by spuntyb My plan is to buy Michelin PSS and keep the runflats as my winters. Extends the life of the runflats and minimizes the frequency with which I have to use them. I thought about it, but these A/S runflats make really crappy winters if you've ever had a good winter set. It also means you have to buy a set of wheels, otherwise you will still have to fit and balance the stock wheels twice a year.
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| 611611 (684hp) | Quote: Originally posted by wheresmy5 Quote: Originally posted by spuntyb My plan is to buy Michelin PSS and keep the runflats as my winters. Extends the life of the runflats and minimizes the frequency with which I have to use them. I've thought about it, but these A/S runflats make really crappy winters if you've ever had a good winter set. It also means you have to buy a set of wheels, otherwise you will still have to fit and balance the stock wheels twice a year. Yes, the assembly/balancing is a bit annoying, but I have a good shop that can do it for me cheaply. The trade-off is that I can simply turn in these tires at the end of the lease, especially when I drive the car in. Otherwise, I would get a full set of winter tires/wheels and put some anti-run-flat rubber on your current wheels. As for the rubber, if you still want A/S the Continental DWS aren't bad, but otherwise just go for nice summer tires (e.g. PSS) with a repair kit in the trunk. I don't care about the kit and would just call service, but that's my opinion.
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| FOREVER (380hp) | Hello everyone, I recently noticed this problem in the passenger seat where the seat keeps creaking and it's starting to annoy me. I tried moving the upholstery and also cleaning the area with leather cleaner. I can't seem to figure it out. I have included a video below: Any help would be greatly appreciated. Cheers
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| bigdick7 (809hp) | Hello, something happened to me too, but a little less than you, I solved it with silicone spray, it's like oil but not a stain. Sprayed through the entire board of the connection of the plastic skin.
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| chubbs1 (82hp) | Quote: Quote from nabego Hello, something happened to me too, but less than you, I solved it with silicone spray, it's like oil, but not a stain. Sprayed through the entire board of the connection of the plastic skin. I'll try this, hopefully I can find one that doesn't leave a residue: http://www.amazon.co.uk/dp/B006UCNI3...silicone+spray It seems that even the plastic surround on the bottom of the seat is starting to too see is makes a creaking noise. I'm not sure how to proceed with this.
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| olushola (444hp) | I had this problem with both front seats while my car was still under warranty. It's not the leather, but the bending of the plastic trim that's causing the noise. BMW removed the plastic trim on the side of the seat, applied 3M double-sided tape and reattached it. I've been feeling much better since then...
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| bethany12 (253hp) | Quote: Originally posted by Fanlee. I'm going to try this, hopefully I can find one that doesn't leave a residue: http://www.amazon.co.uk/dp/B006UCNI3...silicone+spray It seems that even the plastic surround is on it Also the bottom of the seat makes a creaking noise. I'm not sure how to proceed with this. I believe BMW had it in their product catalog.
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| iwantyou1 (582hp) | Hello everyone, I recently noticed this problem in the passenger seat where the seat keeps creaking and it's starting to annoy me. I tried moving the upholstery and also cleaning the area with leather cleaner. I can't seem to figure it out. I have included a video below: Any help would be greatly appreciated. Cheers
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| sis (5hp) | Hello, something happened to me too, but a little less than you, I solved it with silicone spray, it's like oil but not a stain. Sprayed through the entire board of the connection of the plastic skin.
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| guardians (589hp) | Quote: Quote from nabego Hello, something happened to me too, but less than you, I solved it with silicone spray, it's like oil, but not a stain. Sprayed through the entire board of the connection of the plastic skin. I'll try this, hopefully I can find one that doesn't leave a residue: http://www.amazon.co.uk/dp/B006UCNI3...silicone+spray It seems that even the plastic surround on the bottom of the seat is starting to too see is makes a creaking noise. I'm not sure how to proceed with this.
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| vince123 (3hp) | I had this problem with both front seats while my car was still under warranty. It's not the leather, but the bending of the plastic trim that's causing the noise. BMW removed the plastic trim on the side of the seat, applied 3M double-sided tape and reattached it. I've been feeling much better since then...
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| Tasmanian (12hp) | Quote: Originally posted by Fanlee. I'm going to try this, hopefully I can find one that doesn't leave a residue: http://www.amazon.co.uk/dp/B006UCNI3...silicone+spray It seems that even the plastic surround is on it Also the bottom of the seat makes a creaking noise. I'm not sure how to proceed with this. I believe BMW had it in their product catalog.
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| lincoln8187 (106hp) | I received an email from my dealer letting us know your BMW said it was time to come over. The services listed are: engine oil, vehicle inspection, spark plugs. This is my first BMW that I have owned under the regular maintenance warranty. My 535i x-driver is CPO, but of course that doesn't cover maintenance. Approximately how much does spark plug maintenance cost? I hope I'm not threatened with rape.
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| maggie101 (814hp) | lol, you're at risk of rape. They require so much work that these things cost a lot. I'm sure you'll pay at least $400 total. Does your car say it needs these services??
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| fidelidade (350hp) | Impressive. I haven't checked the satnav screen yet, all I know is that it's due for service in about 1200 miles. I'll see what's actually listed. I definitely know an oil change is needed, the vehicle inspection might just be general nonsense. I have about 38,000 miles.
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| westside5 (69hp) | I suggest purchasing the plugs yourself and going to a local indie shop to install. Compared to the dealer, you save a fortune.
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| 16041988 (528hp) | Oil change with filter = $125-150 Vehicle multi-point inspection = $50-100 Spark plug job = $225-350
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| notused (269hp) | Thanks for the advice guys. I'll talk to my SA and then if it's ridiculously high I might have the dealer do some of the work and do the plugs somewhere else.
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| 05081983 (892hp) | Quote: Originally posted by 493263 Oil change with filter = $125-150 Vehicle multi-point inspection = $50-100 Spark plug job = $225-350 Cheese and rice! $350 to replace Sparky? How much for the plugs??
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| RevFreak14 (103hp) | Quote: Originally posted by lsturbointeg Cheese and Rice! $350 to replace Sparky? How much do the plugs cost? about $20 each http://www.trademotion.com/parts/201...&siteid=214697
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| socom1 (240hp) | Quote: Originally posted by lsturbointeg Cheese and Rice! $350 to replace Sparky? How much do the plugs cost? Seems really high. You can purchase the plugs from various places online. Bosch OE connector part #ZR5TPP33S. At Rock Auto here for about $13 each. https://www.rockauto.com/catalog/raframecatalog.php?ck[ID]=0&ck[idlist]=0&ck[viewcurrency]=USD&ck[PHP_SESSION_ID]=ftucff1jugjg56bibnp0m4amv0 Add an hour of work in a workshop for $100, and that should total about $200.
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| jeferson (707hp) | I specify what the dealer will charge. Of course, only BMW OEM parts are used, so it will be more expensive. They charge around $100 per hour for the work.
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| 199494 (147hp) | Is it worth using some better spark plugs like Bosche Iridiums or just sticking with OEM??
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| taylor27 (318hp) | Quote: Originally posted by lsturbointeg Is it worth using some better spark plugs like Bosche Iridium or just sticking with OEM? Copper = short life, high performance, cheap, 2 years or 30,000 miles. Platinum = long life, normal performance, highly resistant to spark erosion, 2-3x longer than copper, fair price, more consistent performance and fuel consumption compared to copper. Lifespan than copper. Iridium = +15-20% longer life than platinum, normal performance, more resistant to erosion, expensive, consistent fuel economy and performance throughout life. I would stick with OEM. They have tested each product and selected which one works best for the engine overall. If you want the best connectors then it's copper, but be prepared to do a lot more maintenance. FYI: While iridium and platinum last longer than copper. If you modify your car, it doesn't matter much. Unless you have a really good tune, you will be replacing the spark plug quite often. When you need power, there's nothing better than copper. I wouldn't choose one over the other for better fuel efficiency because it might make a difference 2%.
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| 23091990 (539hp) | The car is almost in need of service and I just spoke to a customer service representative who gave me a small discount...total of $500 for all three...I think I should go somewhere else?
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| 110057 (101hp) | Pass on the vehicle inspection, the dealer charged me $150 for this service yesterday and it is basically a multi point inspection that can be done at any independent shop for free. You can reset the VC warning yourself on the dashboard, which is what I should have done myself...
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| 6point (642hp) | Quote: Originally posted by splitsensetam Pay attention to vehicle inspection, the dealer charged me $150 for this service yesterday and it is basically a multi point inspection that can be done for free at any independent shop. You can reset the VC warning yourself on the dashboard, which is what I should have done myself... Well done, I'll reset that.
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| sadness (404hp) | The lady at the front desk said she wasn't sure, but the spark plugs probably cost about $350. Looks like I'll do this myself or find a local shop that makes them.
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| Kiemyster (41hp) | Quote: Originally posted by 550Reasons. The lady at the front desk said she wasn't sure, but the spark plugs probably cost about $350. Looks like I'll do this myself or find a local shop that makes them. If you're ready to get dirty, just do it yourself and save $250. The journey takes approx. 1-2 hours. The cost at any reputable independent shop with a certified BMW technician will be close to the dealer price.
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| brave (195hp) | I got a retraction on Monday, so the entire service was put on hold. HA!
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| rachel99 (794hp) | Time for a new F10
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| gordon (687hp) | I received an email from my dealer letting us know your BMW said it was time to come over. The services listed are: engine oil, vehicle inspection, spark plugs. This is my first BMW that I have owned under the regular maintenance warranty. My 535i x-driver is CPO, but of course that doesn't cover maintenance. Approximately how much does spark plug maintenance cost? I hope I'm not threatened with rape.
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| verdade (912hp) | lol, you're at risk of rape. They require so much work that these things cost a lot. I'm sure you'll pay at least $400 total. Does your car say it needs these services??
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| K9g2xpce1E (747hp) | Impressive. I haven't checked the satnav screen yet, all I know is that it's due for service in about 1200 miles. I'll see what's actually listed. I definitely know an oil change is needed, the vehicle inspection might just be general nonsense. I have about 38,000 miles.
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| grad2008 (295hp) | I suggest purchasing the plugs yourself and going to a local indie shop to install. Compared to the dealer, you save a fortune.
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| guitar6 (733hp) | Oil change with filter = $125-150 Vehicle multi-point inspection = $50-100 Spark plug job = $225-350
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| jmtn833 (311hp) | Thanks for the advice guys. I'll talk to my SA and then if it's ridiculously high I might have the dealer do some of the work and do the plugs somewhere else.
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| 120182 (604hp) | Quote: Originally posted by 493263 Oil change with filter = $125-150 Vehicle multi-point inspection = $50-100 Spark plug job = $225-350 Cheese and rice! $350 to replace Sparky? How much for the plugs??
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| lilgirl1 (916hp) | Quote: Originally posted by lsturbointeg Cheese and Rice! $350 to replace Sparky? How much do the plugs cost? about $20 each http://www.trademotion.com/parts/201...&siteid=214697
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| bulletcbj (478hp) | Quote: Originally posted by lsturbointeg Cheese and Rice! $350 to replace Sparky? How much do the plugs cost? Seems really high. You can purchase the plugs from various places online. Bosch OE connector part #ZR5TPP33S. At Rock Auto here for about $13 each. https://www.rockauto.com/catalog/raframecatalog.php?ck[ID]=0&ck[idlist]=0&ck[viewcurrency]=USD&ck[PHP_SESSION_ID]=ftucff1jugjg56bibnp0m4amv0 Add an hour of work in a workshop for $100, and that should total about $200.
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| RockyM610 (430hp) | I specify what the dealer will charge. Of course, only BMW OEM parts are used, so it will be more expensive. They charge around $100 per hour for the work.
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| Harvey T. Gluck (662hp) | Is it worth using some better spark plugs like Bosche Iridiums or just sticking with OEM??
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| flocke (793hp) | Quote: Originally posted by lsturbointeg Is it worth using some better spark plugs like Bosche Iridium or just sticking with OEM? Copper = short life, high performance, cheap, 2 years or 30,000 miles. Platinum = long life, normal performance, highly resistant to spark erosion, 2-3x longer than copper, fair price, more consistent performance and fuel consumption compared to copper. Lifespan than copper. Iridium = +15-20% longer life than platinum, normal performance, more resistant to erosion, expensive, consistent fuel economy and performance throughout life. I would stick with OEM. They have tested each product and selected which one works best for the engine overall. If you want the best connectors then it's copper, but be prepared to do a lot more maintenance. FYI: While iridium and platinum last longer than copper. If you modify your car, it doesn't matter much. Unless you have a really good tune, you will be replacing the spark plug quite often. When you need power, there's nothing better than copper. I wouldn't choose one over the other for better fuel efficiency because it might make a difference 2%.
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| QAZWSXEDC (835hp) | The car is almost in need of service and I just spoke to a customer service representative who gave me a small discount...total of $500 for all three...I think I should go somewhere else?
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| 26051989 (870hp) | Pass on the vehicle inspection, the dealer charged me $150 for this service yesterday and it is basically a multi point inspection that can be done at any independent shop for free. You can reset the VC warning yourself on the dashboard, which is what I should have done myself...
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| luisa1 (743hp) | Quote: Originally posted by splitsensetam Pay attention to vehicle inspection, the dealer charged me $150 for this service yesterday and it is basically a multi point inspection that can be done for free at any independent shop. You can reset the VC warning yourself on the dashboard, which is what I should have done myself... Well done, I'll reset that.
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| harini (6hp) | The lady at the front desk said she wasn't sure, but the spark plugs probably cost about $350. Looks like I'll do this myself or find a local shop that makes them.
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| kilroy (413hp) | Quote: Originally posted by 550Reasons. The lady at the front desk said she wasn't sure, but the spark plugs probably cost about $350. Looks like I'll do this myself or find a local shop that makes them. If you're ready to get dirty, just do it yourself and save $250. The journey takes approx. 1-2 hours. The cost at any reputable independent shop with a certified BMW technician will be close to the dealer price.
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| bossman1 (246hp) | I got a retraction on Monday, so the entire service was put on hold. HA!
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| alexander! (681hp) | Time for a new F10
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| maravilla (961hp) | Hello everyone, I come from e90post and M5board and wanted to introduce myself here in the other spectrum of Bimmerpost. A few weeks ago I bought a 2011 550i Msport. I've been looking for a Jet Black/Black 550 RWD for about a month that's identical to the color combination of my last 335 and M5. A few options I thought were important were the Msport Package, Ventilated Active Seats (South Florida), HUD, and the Prem 2 Package! So far I've replaced the front grilles with gloss black ones, installed a rear spoiler and replaced the stock rear cans with straight tubes. The goal was to stick with the stock tips, but that turned out to be easier said than done. So I went with offset, double-walled tips. Next up is the infamous JB4, a small drop and both bumpers painted. Here is the past @Bimmerpost project! : http://www.e90post.com/forums/showthread.php?t=825542 A few pictures.. PS!! A quick picture of last year's 5's!
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| bbb111 (761hp) | I hope you kept the e39 M5!! Great cars!
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| woodman1 (390hp) | Very nice cars (all of them 3)!
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| 14071988 (502hp) | Welcome aboard! Deep black here too! How does the straight-through design sound???
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| redbirds (888hp) | Excellent choice. I love my 550i. Gets everything done very quickly and with maximum comfort! :do:
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| bernie (339hp) | Quote: Originally posted by Carbonm3ny I hope you kept the e39 M5!! Great cars! Also! The E39 was my favorite car under the 5 Series platform. Quote: Originally written by ss0803 Very nice cars (all 3)! Thank you very much! Quote: Originally written by lsturbointeg Welcome aboard! Deep black here too! How does the straight-through design sound? Thanks! So far I'm happy with the direct setup and will try to put a sound clip on the board sometime this week. There aren't many decent sound clips for clearing silencers. No drone in 8th gear over 80 km/h. Quote: Originally written by RSBro. Excellent choice. I love my 550i. Gets everything done very quickly and with maximum comfort! :do: Thanks! Yes, a great choice with that 550.
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| punk77 (515hp) | Congratulations !! Let me know if you have any questions about your future mods.
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| Buddy1 (18hp) | Quote: Originally written by [email protected] Congratulations !! Let me know if you have any questions about your future mods. Yes, thanks! I will stay in touch regarding future mods. A
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| school13 (514hp) | a nice looking car you have. Welcome
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| honey88 (303hp) | Quote: Originally written by sovende96 Yes, thank you! I will stay in touch regarding future mods. A Sounds good
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| musyka85 (320hp) | Hello everyone, I come from e90post and M5board and wanted to introduce myself here in the other spectrum of Bimmerpost. A few weeks ago I bought a 2011 550i Msport. I've been looking for a Jet Black/Black 550 RWD for about a month that's identical to the color combination of my last 335 and M5. A few options I really wanted were the Msport Package, Ventilated Active Seats (South Florida), HUD, and the Prem 2 Package! So far I've replaced the front grilles with gloss black ones, installed a rear spoiler and replaced the stock rear cans with straight tubes. The goal was to stick with the stock tips, but that turned out to be easier said than done. So I went with offset, double-walled tips. Next up is the infamous JB4, a small drop and both bumpers painted. Here is the past @Bimmerpost project! : http://www.e90post.com/forums/showthread.php?t=825542 A few pictures.. PS!! A quick picture of last year's 5's!
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| BobRBob (902hp) | I hope you kept the e39 M5!! Great cars!
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| grinding (290hp) | Very nice cars (all of them 3)!
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| Frank_NJ (435hp) | Welcome aboard! Deep black here too! How does the straight-through design sound???
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| Blue Sky (699hp) | Excellent choice. I love my 550i. Gets everything done very quickly and with maximum comfort! :do:
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| TheRox (589hp) | Quote: Originally posted by Carbonm3ny I hope you kept the e39 M5!! Great cars! Also! The E39 was my favorite car under the 5 Series platform. Quote: Originally written by ss0803 Very nice cars (all 3)! Thank you very much! Quote: Originally written by lsturbointeg Welcome aboard! Deep black here too! How does the straight-through design sound? Thanks! So far I'm happy with the direct setup and will try to put a sound clip on the board sometime this week. There aren't many decent sound clips for clearing silencers. No drone in 8th gear over 80 km/h. Quote: Originally written by RSBro. Excellent choice. I love my 550i. Gets everything done very quickly and with maximum comfort! :do: Thanks! Yes, a great choice with that 550.
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| snowmuch (430hp) | Congratulations !! Let me know if you have any questions about your future mods.
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| mikeric (67hp) | Quote: Originally written by [email protected] Congratulations !! Let me know if you have any questions about your future mods. Yes, thanks! I will stay in touch regarding future mods. A
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| sweets2 (942hp) | a nice looking car you have. Welcome
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| useruser (199hp) | Quote: Originally written by sovende96 Yes, thank you! I will stay in touch regarding future mods. A Sounds good
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| 170388 (239hp) | Unreal, I didn't know that for so many years. http://www.clickhole.com/article/5-c...source=facebook
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| mantisepc (495hp) | Lol...
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| brookie (722hp) | You forgot to mention the device on the left side of the steering column that notifies other drivers that you are changing lanes or turning....
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| lorna (474hp) | Unreal, I didn't know that for so many years. http://www.clickhole.com/article/5-c...source=facebook
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| poptarts1 (242hp) | Lol...
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| 30031981 (795hp) | You forgot to mention the device on the left side of the steering column that notifies other drivers that you are changing lanes or turning....
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| sandrina (173hp) | I just want to get an idea if what my car has is normal for F10. I have a 15 year 535i xdrive with 19 wheels. After a curve, the steering does not return completely to the center position on its own. I have to rotate it to get it back to center position. Previous cars were 3 Series models and it felt like the steering always wanted to center itself
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| paulinha (152hp) | None of my cars return to dead center. They are always slightly off.
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| qwsazx (981hp) | I just noticed that the return to center is terrible at low speed, but at cruising speed the center feel is very good. I still can't remember having to correct the steering after a corner on any other car I've driven before.
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| reggie01 (962hp) | I just want to get an idea if what my car has is normal for F10. I have a 15 year 535i xdrive with 19 wheels. After a curve, the steering does not return completely to the center position on its own. I have to rotate it to get it back to center position. Previous cars were 3 Series models and it felt like the steering always wanted to center itself
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| 13121975 (746hp) | None of my cars return to dead center. They are always slightly off.
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| Feelx (999hp) | I just noticed that the return to center is terrible at low speed, but at cruising speed the center feel is very good. I still can't remember having to correct the steering after a corner on any other car I've driven before.
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| boomer3 (952hp) | I have a 2014 5 Series with a power trunk. The trunk has never had a problem, but yesterday it suddenly wouldn't open, either with the key button, the button on the back of the trunk, or the button in the car (bottom left on the driver's side). Is there a purely mechanical key to open the trunk? Has anyone had this problem before and found a simple solution? I want to ask before I take it for maintenance (which requires a long wait...). Thanks
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| mickey1234 (380hp) | A typical example. I just noticed a few days ago that the power trunk lid was just something unnecessary just waiting to malfunction. Is it really that hard to lift your arm and close the trunk? This lack of exercise in our society is the reason why there are more and more tall people who have to drive carts around stores, fairs and amusement parks.
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| zarygalina (790hp) | Have you checked the backup? Strange, I had a powered trunk on my X5 that allowed me to open it and raise it manually using the button on the back. Sounds like the entire system has no power, so the fuse would be my first port of call
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| 01121992 (231hp) | I know... I think that the electric trunk on a sedan has no value... On an SUV or hatchback of course, but on a sedan... pretty useless... I guess I'll have to take it in for service. .. Hopefully this is a simple fix and doesn't require replacing an entire system... Not having trunk access on a car is a pretty serious matter... Given our experience with the current generation 3 and 5 (we own two BMWs). ), I never have a BMW past guarantee...
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| ABCDEFGH (636hp) | Go into your armrest and check to see if the trunk lock is engaged on the side. I was driving crazy trying to open my trunk and was about to go to the dealer and complain when my brother found out that I accidentally turned on the trunk lock. Double check it even if it's obvious lol.
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| 13061306 (938hp) | Wow, I had no idea there was a slider for that. Must have accidentally turned it over...problem solved. Thanks!
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