| Username: | Message: |
|---|
| Shelly (745hp) | Hello everyone, BMW 530D. that again. The car goes into limp mode under heavy loads, there are no problems when driving normally in the city, the performance is completely fine up to 2.3,000 rpm. The problem starts when you put your foot further down and the car demands more power, then it simply has problems. Did an Air Mass System test, everything except the picture here is good. Boost pressure sensor changed, throttle valve works properly. As for the exhaust pressures that are out of order - the minimum value was 2500 mbar, and in the test I reached 2400 mbar, while the other was at least 1500 mbar and reached about 1300 mbar. I only get error code 244c00 when I step down and wait like that for 30 seconds then it pops up. Now that I have no idea, where can I find the pipes mentioned? The car also has a Stage 1 map with EGR removal, just to mention. The problem started after replacing a faulty throttle body, which caused the DPF to become clogged. The diesel particulate filter has now been regenerated and the throttle body has been replaced and is working. Attached are also pictures of values at different speeds. A brand new air filter was also installed. Thanks in advance
|
| maximum (430hp) | I've been browsing the forum, most of the stuff I can find is from a 35d which usually has problems with the small turbo's converter, which isn't the case here.
|
| 05121991 (108hp) | high? anyone?
|
| 060387 (298hp) | Did you find the problem? I have the same problem with my 525d 2.0…
|
| 22031993 (483hp) | Hello everyone, I have exactly the same problem as you. You basically described my problem. Also, I don't think it's a problem with the turbo as it has power in the city while driving at max 100-100km/h. INFO: My car doesn't have level 1 - it's the default setting. Things I changed: DPF, EGR, MAF, boost pressure sensor, exhaust pressure sensor, all oil housing seals. Well guess what - nothing helped. Please keep us updated. I'm running out of energy to fix the problem. Greetings.
|
| 21021982 (582hp) | Hello everyone, BMW 530D. that again. The car goes into limp mode under heavy loads, there are no problems when driving normally in the city, the performance is completely fine up to 2.3,000 rpm. The problem starts when you put your foot further down and the car demands more power, then it simply has problems. Did an Air Mass System test, everything except the picture here is good. Boost pressure sensor changed, throttle valve works properly. As for the exhaust pressures that are out of order - the minimum value was 2500 mbar, and in the test I reached 2400 mbar, while the other was at least 1500 mbar and reached about 1300 mbar. I only get error code 244c00 when I step down and wait like that for 30 seconds then it pops up. Now that I have no idea, where can I find the pipes mentioned? The car also has a Stage 1 map with EGR removal, just to mention. The problem started after replacing a faulty throttle body, which caused the DPF to become clogged. The diesel particulate filter has now been regenerated and the throttle body has been replaced and is working. Attached are also pictures of values at different speeds. A brand new air filter was also installed. Thanks in advance
|
| automatic (691hp) | I've been browsing the forum, most of the stuff I can find is from a 35d which usually has problems with the small turbo's converter, which isn't the case here.
|
| aardvark1 (970hp) | high? anyone?
|
| parovoz (791hp) | Did you find the problem? I have the same problem with my 525d 2.0…
|
| 0315 (646hp) | Hello everyone, I have exactly the same problem as you. You basically described my problem. Also, I don't think it's a turbocharger issue as it has power in the city while driving at max 100-100km/h. INFO: My car doesn't have level 1 - it's the default setting. Things I changed: DPF, EGR, MAF, boost pressure sensor, exhaust pressure sensor, all oil housing seals. Well guess what - nothing helped. Please keep us updated. I'm running out of energy to fix the problem. Greetings.
|
| YawdManF10 (967hp) | Hello. My BMW is making a strange noise and I can't figure out why it's happening. The steering wheel makes a popping/clicking noise when I move it up and down electronically (or when starting the car when it's shutting down) and also when I drive slowly and turn it (trying to park the car or something like that type). Same. Also, I noticed that it sometimes occurs when I drive on a rough road. But it doesn't always happen. What could it be? Maybe you had the same problem? I made a video (the most striking one is at the end) https://youtube.com/shorts/nEhILCc_sc8
|
| 23011994 (589hp) | I had the same thing, it was the clock spring that failed. Note that this is not actually a spring, but rather a white cable that runs inside the steering wheel so that the steering wheel buttons and airbag remain connected when you turn the steering wheel. Over time you lose the functionality of the buttons and the airbag light comes on.
|
| angel2001 (52hp) | Quote: Originally posted by brad850csi I had the same thing, it was the coil spring that failed. Note that this is not actually a spring, but rather a white cable that runs inside the steering wheel so that the steering wheel buttons and airbag remain connected when you turn the steering wheel. Over time you lose the functionality of the buttons and the airbag light comes on. What was the solution??
|
| PoleApart (290hp) | Quote: Originally posted by deividasjank What was the solution? A scrap dealer near me had an F11 that had a cable in good condition, so I bought it. You could probably repair the cable, but it was just easier and quicker for me to use this cable. Note that an F11 has a rear wiper function that the F10 does not have. Therefore the F11 is unique if you buy the entire unit including the stalks (like BMW sells them). I'm not sure if the cable itself is the same F10 and F11.
|
| sousou (954hp) | Hello. My BMW is making a strange noise and I can't figure out why it's happening. The steering wheel makes a popping/clicking noise when I move it up and down electronically (or when starting the car when it's shutting down) and also when I drive slowly and turn it (trying to park the car or something like that type). Same. Also, I noticed that it sometimes occurs when I drive on a rough road. But it doesn't always happen. What could it be? Maybe you had the same problem? I made a video (the most striking one is at the end) https://youtube.com/shorts/nEhILCc_sc8
|
| REYOM (196hp) | I had the same thing, it was the clock spring that failed. Note that this is not actually a spring, but rather a white cable that runs inside the steering wheel so that the steering wheel buttons and airbag remain connected when you turn the steering wheel. Over time you lose the functionality of the buttons and the airbag light comes on.
|
| 02111991 (796hp) | Quote: Originally posted by brad850csi I had the same thing, it was the coil spring that failed. Note that this is not actually a spring, but rather a white cable that runs inside the steering wheel so that the steering wheel buttons and airbag remain connected when you turn the steering wheel. Over time you lose the functionality of the buttons and the airbag light comes on. What was the solution??
|
| F10550xi (556hp) | Quote: Originally posted by deividasjank What was the solution? A scrap dealer near me had an F11 that had a cable in good condition, so I bought it. You could probably repair the cable, but it was just easier and quicker for me to use this cable. Note that an F11 has a rear wiper function that the F10 does not have. Therefore the F11 is unique if you buy the entire unit including the stalks (like BMW sells them). I'm not sure if the cable itself is the same F10 and F11.
|
| pink321 (318hp) | Hi guys, I have a 2011 F10 and for the past year I have had an ongoing problem with my key fob/remote locking. You can check the full context in my previous threads, but TL, DR, I no longer think it's the key that's to blame. Because recently my key fob (I only have this one) was working fine, but after very heavy rain it stopped working again. Then something clicked in my head and I realized that the previous problems were more likely to occur after heavy rain or a car wash. Is the diversity antenna possibly defective? I have looked for error codes and nothing to do with the remote locking system. I also haven't noticed any water leaks in the car and there are no obvious signs of a leak. I'm not even sure if this is a problem on the F10 since the antenna is in the car, but I know that the diversity antenna in general can cause a lot of problems and I'm not sure what else it is could be. Something in the shark's fin?
|
| 260982 (383hp) | There are several antennas for convenient access - some of them are located inside, others on the outside. The shark fin antenna is intended for GPS/telephone/satellite radio signals.
|
| yuanyuan (320hp) | It sounds like you're onto something with moisture intrusion... Is the DA located inside rather than under the rear headliner? Could the shark fin area or even the rear window seal or sunroof be leaking? But as Qsilver7 thinks, maybe a different antenna or the CA module? I think it's under the dash, but maybe there's moisture there???
|
| iluvmyself (200hp) | F10 Interior and exterior comfort access antennas: E84 - Front center console interior antenna: E22 - Rear center console interior antenna: E74 - Rear parcel shelf interior antenna E28 and E36 - Trunk antennas E23 - Left exterior antenna E83 - Right exterior antenna E27 - Rear bumper antenna. B207 – Ring antenna
|
| erica11 (237hp) | Hmm, interesting. I didn't know there were so many. I had a problem with the vapor barrier leaking, but had it repaired a while ago. I'm wondering if this is still an issue and causing a problem with the left and/or right antenna? Do you know if there would be errors? I checked with Bimmercode and didn't see anything related to remote locking.
|
| dimochka (715hp) | Quote: Originally written by Jegethy Hmm, interesting. I didn't know there were so many. I had a problem with the vapor barrier leaking, but had it repaired a while ago. I'm wondering if this is still an issue and causing a problem with the left and/or right antenna? Do you know if there would be errors? I checked with Bimmercode and didn't see anything related to remote locking. If it's bugs, you'll need Bimmerlink (sister app to BimCode) to check for bugs.
|
| wright5 (635hp) | Hi guys, I have a 2011 F10 and for the past year I have had an ongoing problem with my key fob/remote locking. You can read the full context in my previous threads, but TL, DR, I no longer think it's the key that's to blame. Because recently my key fob (I only have this one) was working fine, but after very heavy rain it stopped working again. Then something clicked in my head and I realized that the previous problems were more likely to occur after heavy rain or a car wash. Is the diversity antenna possibly defective? I have looked for error codes and nothing to do with the remote locking system. I also haven't noticed any water leaks in the car and there are no obvious signs of a leak. I'm not even sure if this is a problem with the F10 since the antenna is in the car, but I know that the diversity antenna in general can cause a lot of problems and I'm not sure what else it is could be. Something in the shark's fin?
|
| 100387 (434hp) | There are several antennas for convenient access - some of them are located inside, others on the outside. The shark fin antenna is intended for GPS/telephone/satellite radio signals.
|
| gotrice (204hp) | It sounds like you're onto something with moisture intrusion... Is the DA located inside rather than under the rear headliner? Could the shark fin area or even the rear window seal or sunroof be leaking? But as Qsilver7 thinks, maybe a different antenna or the CA module? I think it's under the dash, but maybe there's moisture there???
|
| mark11 (426hp) | F10 Interior and exterior comfort access antennas: E84 - Front center console interior antenna: E22 - Rear center console interior antenna: E74 - Rear parcel shelf interior antenna E28 and E36 - Trunk antennas E23 - Left exterior antenna E83 - Right exterior antenna E27 - Rear bumper antenna. B207 – Ring antenna
|
| monkey30 (512hp) | Hmm, interesting. I didn't know there were so many. I had a problem with the vapor barrier leaking, but had it repaired a while ago. I'm wondering if this is still an issue and causing a problem with the left and/or right antenna? Do you know if there would be errors? I checked with Bimmercode and didn't see anything related to remote locking.
|
| meridian1 (867hp) | Quote: Originally written by Jegethy Hmm, interesting. I didn't know there were so many. I had a problem with the vapor barrier leaking, but had it repaired a while ago. I'm wondering if this is still an issue and causing a problem with the left and/or right antenna? Do you know if there would be errors? I checked with Bimmercode and didn't see anything related to remote locking. If it's bugs, you'll need Bimmerlink (sister app to BimCode) to check for bugs.
|
| shelter (855hp) | 1 More
|
| matrix10 (404hp) | My .02 tint on all lights = 👎.🏼, maybe for JDM but not for a BMW but that's just my opinion. No hating on your build. Personally, I just prefer safety over aesthetics. It's all personal preference and in the end it comes down to what you like.
|
| skalberti (559hp) | The tint looks great, but there are major adhesion issues. In addition to financial liability, a person may also face criminal liability under certain circumstances. Really bad idea.
|
| bowwow3 (355hp) | I liked white better
|
| juanjuan (809hp) | In my opinion the white taillight mod looks overdone... a little childish/cheesy. But that's just me $.02
|
| okok (847hp) | I posted this not for the approval of others, but as part of a thread about Whitelines. I don't mind negative comments as my style may not be yours. So suffice it to say I think the white line lights are beautiful. A two-dimensional image does not show the details it contains. They are just as high quality as the standard F10 end pieces. These are not JDM clear lights on Japanese cars. Putting something that is clearly different into a cheap accessory is not objective at all. They are an official BMW accessory in Europe and I made sure to choose an OEM model. I also tinted my lights, although I was aware of the liability involved, and I appreciate the disclaimer. Thank you all for your comments, but it reminds me why I don't post much on enthusiast forums. I enjoy reading them, but most of the time the threads degenerate into ad hominem battles. Peace out.
|
| dolphin69 (225hp) | I don't fully understand your answer. You didn't want anyone's approval, but you decided to make a post that was biased towards your bias on the lights, similar to the replies on your car, in a thread that already had a negative dynamic regarding the general one consensus about the taillights? Then I decided to post pictures and now you're bitter because people don't agree with your reasoning for why the white lines fit in. It's your car, do what you want, but don't act obnoxious when people express their opinions That doesn't necessarily agree with yours when posting pictures in the general area of an enthusiast forum. Posting pictures of mods will be met with backlash. People express their opinions based on their personal tastes because that's what a forum is all about. Calm down.
|
| Notarobot2 (614hp) | Quote: Originally written by AlanM. The shade looks great, but there are major adhesion issues. In addition to financial liability, a person may also face criminal liability under certain circumstances. Really bad idea. Really, like the tinted ends, I have the white lines on space gray and it looks much better than the factory red. I'll post a picture here tomorrow. I'm thinking about tinting it to see how it looks. Anyway, the big liability questions got me curious, so I looked up California law. It appears to be the same as North Carolina. The lights must be red and visible from 500 feet away. That's basically 1/10 of a mile. Measure the distance and ask a friend to film your brake and night running lights during the day and see what they look like. It shouldn't matter to you, but the video will give you an idea of how compliant you are and what other drivers see when they approach your car.
|
| amanda18 (794hp) | I just did a quick read again: For vehicles after 1969, the visible distance with the taillights is 1000 feet. 2/10 of a mile. I would definitely do a distance/visibility check, but you'll be surprised at how far you can see them.
|
| france98 (136hp) | Quote: Originally written by VB5ER. I just did a quick read again: For vehicles after 1969, the visible distance at the taillights is 1000 feet. 2/10 of a mile. I would definitely do a distance/visibility check, but you'll be surprised at how far you can see them. This is good information. I think I meet this requirement with the tint. It is very bright and the pictures were taken under very cloudy skies. The halos and my taillights are DRLS.
|
| ily4ever (422hp) | Quote: Originally posted by BCK2BLN I don't fully understand your answer. You didn't want anyone's approval, but you decided to make a post that was biased towards your bias on the lights, similar to the replies on your car, in a thread that already had a negative dynamic regarding the general one consensus about the taillights? Then I decided to post pictures and now you're bitter because people don't agree with your reasoning for why the white lines fit in. It's your car, do what you want, but don't act obnoxious when people express their opinions That doesn't necessarily agree with yours when posting pictures in the general area of an enthusiast forum. Posting pictures of mods will be met with backlash. People express their opinions based on their personal tastes because that's what a forum is all about. Calm down. I'm sorry you didn't understand, but I appreciate your comment and have edited this post. I'm not bitter at all. If you read the first post of the operation, I stayed on the topic of my personal impressions of the lights. Peace
|
| lakeland1 (512hp) | Quote: Originally posted by VB5ER Really, as with the tinted ends, I have the white lines on space gray and it looks much better than the factory red. I'll post a picture here tomorrow. I'm thinking about tinting it to see how it looks. Anyway, the big liability questions got me curious, so I looked up California law. It appears to be the same as North Carolina. The lights must be red and visible from 500 feet away. That's basically 1/10 of a mile. Measure the distance and ask a friend to film your brake and night running lights during the day and see what they look like. It shouldn't matter to you, but the video will give you an idea of how compliant you are and what other drivers see when they approach your car. Varies by state. http://palmergarage.com/laws-tint-tail-lights/ However, I don't want to be involved in a civil lawsuit even if I meet the requirements of a particular state. By the way, I had white lines on my 2013 Titanium Silver 550 and thought they were great.
|
| wilfredo1 (982hp) | Girly white is the only color that I think could look good..
|
| 197419 (618hp) | Hey Reallybro...like I mentioned, they look fantastic white. I think tinted they probably look better in person, but the photos probably don't do them justice.
|
| 271271 (35hp) | Here is the WLNS in Space Gray
|
| 29031995 (519hp) | As soon as I get my car back I will also put the white lines on my Dark Graphite 550. I also purchased the lightest tint from Lamin-X. Read where this film leaves out about 90% of the light. Wanted something reminiscent of the E90's blacklines. Really, your lights look good. Not every mod that people do to their cats is legal.
|
| taylor98 (475hp) | White lines work well for dark colored cars, not so much for lighter colors in my opinion
|
| 201186 (590hp) | Quote: Originally posted by PR_F10_535 White lines work well on dark colored cars, not so much lighter colors, nice in my opinion!
|
| love02 (150hp) | Quote: Originally written by Reallybro. Recently had my roof and rear tinted. The whitelines look really good with a slight tint......[IMG][/IMG] I've recently been thinking about doing this on a Carbon Black F10. They're really cheap, about 120 euros on eBay. 🤔,
|
| bunny10 (552hp) | Quote: Originally written by DoubleL_S. I've recently been thinking about doing this on a soot black F10. They're really cheap, about 120 euros on eBay. 🤔, link? Now that I have an F10 I can't seem to find anyone that sells these. Just the DEPO version from some pop-up web retailers.
|
| sinner1 (592hp) | 1 More
|
| granite (747hp) | My .02 tint on all lights = 👎.🏼, maybe for JDM but not for a BMW but that's just my opinion. No hating on your build. Personally, I just prefer safety over aesthetics. It's all personal preference and in the end it comes down to what you like.
|
| a012345 (230hp) | The tint looks great, but there are major adhesion issues. In addition to financial liability, a person may also face criminal liability under certain circumstances. Really bad idea.
|
| free2bme (414hp) | I liked white better
|
| 1177 (528hp) | In my opinion the white taillight mod looks overdone... a little childish/cheesy. But that's just me $.02
|
| matthe90 (298hp) | I posted this not for the approval of others, but as part of a thread about Whitelines. I don't mind negative comments as my style may not be yours. So suffice it to say I think the white line lights are beautiful. A two-dimensional image does not show the details it contains. They are just as high quality as the standard F10 end pieces. These are not JDM clear lights on Japanese cars. Putting something that is clearly different into a cheap accessory is not objective at all. They are an official BMW accessory in Europe and I made sure to choose an OEM model. I also tinted my lights, although I was aware of the liability involved, and I appreciate the disclaimer. Thank you all for your comments, but it reminds me why I don't post much on enthusiast forums. I enjoy reading them, but most of the time the threads degenerate into ad hominem battles. Peace out.
|
| Never Convicted (369hp) | I don't fully understand your answer. You didn't want anyone's approval, but you decided to make a post that was biased towards your bias on the lights, similar to the replies on your car, in a thread that already had a negative dynamic regarding the general one consensus about the taillights? Then I decided to post pictures and now you're bitter because people don't agree with your reasoning for why the white lines fit in. It's your car, do what you want, but don't act obnoxious when people express their opinions That doesn't necessarily agree with yours when posting pictures in the general area of an enthusiast forum. Posting pictures of mods will be met with backlash. People express their opinions based on their personal tastes because that's what a forum is all about. Calm down.
|
| aristo (378hp) | Quote: Originally written by AlanM. The shade looks great, but there are major adhesion issues. In addition to financial liability, a person may also face criminal liability under certain circumstances. Really bad idea. Really, like the tinted ends, I have the white lines on space gray and it looks much better than the factory red. I'll post a picture here tomorrow. I'm thinking about tinting it to see how it looks. Anyway, the big liability questions got me curious, so I looked up California law. It appears to be the same as North Carolina. The lights must be red and visible from 500 feet away. That's basically 1/10 of a mile. Measure the distance and ask a friend to film your brake and night running lights during the day and see what they look like. It shouldn't matter to you, but the video will give you an idea of how compliant you are and what other drivers see when they approach your car.
|
| maria6 (721hp) | I just did a quick read again: For vehicles after 1969, the visible distance with the taillights is 1000 feet. 2/10 of a mile. I would definitely do a distance/visibility check, but you'll be surprised at how far you can see them.
|
| sushmita (496hp) | Quote: Originally written by VB5ER. I just did a quick read again: For vehicles after 1969, the visible distance at the taillights is 1000 feet. 2/10 of a mile. I would definitely do a distance/visibility check, but you'll be surprised at how far you can see them. This is good information. I think I meet this requirement with the tint. It is very bright and the pictures were taken under very cloudy skies. The halos and my taillights are DRLS.
|
| nastya1996 (156hp) | Quote: Originally posted by BCK2BLN I don't fully understand your answer. You didn't want anyone's approval, but you decided to make a post that was biased towards your bias on the lights, similar to the replies on your car, in a thread that already had a negative dynamic regarding the general one consensus about the taillights? Then I decided to post pictures and now you're bitter because people don't agree with your reasoning for why the white lines fit in. It's your car, do what you want, but don't act obnoxious when people express their opinions That doesn't necessarily agree with yours when posting pictures in the general area of an enthusiast forum. Posting pictures of mods will be met with backlash. People express their opinions based on their personal tastes because that's what a forum is all about. Calm down. I'm sorry you didn't understand, but I appreciate your comment and have edited this post. I'm not bitter at all. If you read the first post of the operation, I stayed on the topic of my personal impressions of the lights. Peace
|
| refillmotives (895hp) | Quote: Originally posted by VB5ER Really, as with the tinted ends, I have the white lines on space gray and it looks much better than the factory red. I'll post a picture here tomorrow. I'm thinking about tinting it to see how it looks. Anyway, the big liability questions got me curious, so I looked up California law. It appears to be the same as North Carolina. The lights must be red and visible from 500 feet away. That's basically 1/10 of a mile. Measure the distance and ask a friend to film your brake and night running lights during the day and see what they look like. It shouldn't matter to you, but the video will give you an idea of how compliant you are and what other drivers see when they approach your car. Varies by state. http://palmergarage.com/laws-tint-tail-lights/ However, I don't want to be involved in a civil lawsuit even if I meet the requirements of a particular state. By the way, I had white lines on my 2013 Titanium Silver 550 and thought they were great.
|
| bohemia (981hp) | Girly white is the only color that I think could look good..
|
| m987654321 (364hp) | Hey Reallybro...like I mentioned, they look fantastic white. I think tinted they probably look better in person, but the photos probably don't do them justice.
|
| scales (504hp) | Here is the WLNS in Space Gray
|
| 0111 (857hp) | As soon as I get my car back I will also put the white lines on my Dark Graphite 550. I also purchased the lightest tint from Lamin-X. Read where this film leaves out about 90% of the light. Wanted something reminiscent of the E90's blacklines. Really, your lights look good. Not every mod that people do to their cats is legal.
|
| 18081989 (775hp) | White lines work well for dark colored cars, not so much for lighter colors in my opinion
|
| gasoline (406hp) | Quote: Originally posted by PR_F10_535 White lines work well on dark colored cars, not so much lighter colors, nice in my opinion!
|
| 01101984 (416hp) | Quote: Originally written by Reallybro. Recently had my roof and rear tinted. The whitelines look really good with a slight tint......[IMG][/IMG] I've recently been thinking about doing this on a Carbon Black F10. They're really cheap, about 120 euros on eBay. 🤔,
|
| belle123 (91hp) | Quote: Originally written by DoubleL_S. I've recently been thinking about doing this on a soot black F10. They're really cheap, about 120 euros on eBay. 🤔, link? Now that I have an F10 I can't seem to find anyone that sells these. Just the DEPO version from some pop-up web retailers.
|
| alexis97 (32hp) | I just got a new 535i and for some strange reason the footwell lights stay on while driving (I had a 328i where they turned off after a minute or when the doors were closed). Initially the middle light (under the SOS button) stayed on, but I read in the manual that if I hold it for 3 seconds it will turn off. I tried playing with idrive but it still behaves strangely. I have the conviction package on the car. Any suggestions? Thanks,
|
| greenland (890hp) | Not normal, I don't think it can be adjusted. Maybe it doesn't recognize that the doors are closed, but then the car would bark at you if it did. Sounds like a trip to the dealer is in order.
|
| 08031983 (225hp) | Sali, I have this problem too. The rear passenger side footwell light stays on when I drive at night. I just noticed this yesterday. Did you get the problem solved???
|
| [email protected] (604hp) | Hey, old thread - but... does anyone know the solution to this problem (rear passenger side footwell light)? Because of this problem I got a new software but the problem was not solved
|
| ZED4Mjjl (479hp) | This is normal for the 2014s.
|
| 23031996 (424hp) | Mh? Just the light that normally falls on the floor when you open the door. And only rear passenger? I can't believe this is normal... before I had software from 2011, now I had software from 2014 and nothing has changed
|
| patrick4 (913hp) | It's ambient lighting. There are two LEDs at each point. While driving, only one LED lights up in the color you selected in the iDrive settings - classic (amber) or modern (white). When you open the door, both LEDs light up white for better visibility.
|
| wargames (974hp) | No it's not. I got a 2010 F10. This only happens with one of four lights in the doors. Right back door only. And it's the light on the entire bottom of the door... The light turns off when the car is locked and it's dimmable. Just to be safe (different car, not my picture) – but THIS light (behind alibaba.com) is on while driving. http://i01.i.aliimg.com/img/pb/369/5...515369_935.jpg
|
| jackie5 (156hp) | I didn't address your problem, but rather the question about the footwell lighting from the OP. I didn't realize the thread was 3 years old.
|
| 051279 (868hp) | OK no problem. Each could solve the other problem?
|
| spanky69 (556hp) | The puddle light on the driver's door on my 2013 BMW 535i now turns on with parking lights and stays on at night with parking lights while the other three doors are off while driving. Does anyone have a solution??
|
| sexylove2 (672hp) | Quote: Originally posted by 535Individual The puddle light on the driver's door on my 2013 BMW 535i now turns on along with the parking lights and stays on at night with the parking lights while the other three doors are off while driving. Does anyone have a solution? I have the same problem in Formula 10 2012. The puddle light on the driver's door turns on when the door is closed and turns off when the door is open. What can I do???
|
| sandiego61 (840hp) | I also had this problem on my front right door where the puddle light stayed on when the door was closed. 2012 535, purchased September 2015. And when I drive at night the light drives me crazy. My problem was faulty wiring in the surrounding door panel. What I've done or the best way to check if it's bad wiring is to park the car where you can really see the ambient light coming on, like in a garage or parking lot with bad ones lighting conditions at night. In the car, with the doors closed and the ambient lights on, check for a broken door. Check any ambient light (under the trim, on the door handle, in the side door pocket) on that door to see if it is illuminated. If one of these is not lit, that is the connector that should be connected to the puddle light. My puddle light was connected to the ambient light of my door handle. I then disassembled the door panel and had to reconnect the wiring to the correct location. I hope this helps.
|
| lost12 (351hp) | Quote: Originally posted by top ramen I also had this problem on my front right door where the puddle light stayed on when the door is closed. 2012 535, purchased September 2015. And when I drive at night the light drives me crazy. My problem was faulty wiring in the surrounding door panel. What I've done or the best way to check if it's bad wiring is to park the car where you can really see the ambient light coming on, like in a garage or parking lot with bad ones lighting conditions at night. In the car, with the doors closed and the ambient lights on, check for a broken door. Check any ambient light (under the trim, on the door handle, in the side door pocket) on that door to see if it is illuminated. If one of these is not lit, that is the connector that should be connected to the puddle light. My puddle light was connected to the ambient light of my door handle. I then disassembled the door panel and had to reconnect the wiring to the correct location. I hope this helps. I had this problem on my M5 after replacing the door panels. But I'm sure I'll have to take it to the mechanic soon
|
| temitayo (973hp) | Hello Top Ramen, I have the same problem with both driver side doors on my F10 M5. Is this a difficult process? Do you have any further information please? Thank you in advance, Peter. Quote: Originally posted by top ramen. I also had this problem on my front right door where the puddle light stayed on when the door was closed. 2012 535, purchased September 2015. And when I drive at night the light drives me crazy. My problem was faulty wiring in the surrounding door panel. What I've done or the best way to check if it's bad wiring is to park the car where you can really see the ambient light coming on, like in a garage or parking lot with bad ones lighting conditions at night. In the car, with the doors closed and the ambient lights on, check for a broken door. Check any ambient light (under the trim, on the door handle, in the side door pocket) on that door to see if it is illuminated. If one of these is not lit, that is the connector that should be connected to the puddle light. My puddle light was connected to the ambient light of my door handle. I then disassembled the door panel and had to reconnect the wiring to the correct location. I hope this helps.
|
| M66X (331hp) | Hello, I have the same problem only on the two rear doors. I also noticed that when I first unlocked the car, when I opened the door, all four lights worked. But I notice that after a minute the lights on the two back doors no longer work when you only open the front door. I also noticed that when I'm reversing, two lights come on and the only way I can turn them off is to turn off the light wheel on the left side of the driver's front right under the left vent. Has anyone been able to solve the problem or is there a solution??
|
| dash (543hp) | I just got a new 535i and for some strange reason the footwell lights stay on while driving (I had a 328i where they turned off after a minute or when the doors were closed). Initially the middle light (under the SOS button) stayed on, but I read in the manual that if I hold it for 3 seconds it will turn off. I tried playing with idrive but it still behaves strangely. I have the conviction package on the car. Any suggestions? Thanks,
|
| blackhat (93hp) | Not normal, I don't think it can be adjusted. Maybe it doesn't recognize that the doors are closed, but then the car would bark at you if it did. Sounds like a trip to the dealer is in order.
|
| sammy10 (704hp) | Sali, I have this problem too. The rear passenger side footwell light stays on when I drive at night. I just noticed this yesterday. Did you get the problem solved???
|
| kotox76 (372hp) | Hey, old thread - but... does anyone know the solution to this problem (rear passenger side footwell light)? Because of this problem I got a new software but the problem was not solved
|
| 12111981 (637hp) | This is normal for the 2014s.
|
| superbad1 (384hp) | Mh? Just the light that normally falls on the floor when you open the door. And only rear passenger? I can't believe this is normal... before I had software from 2011, now I had software from 2014 and nothing has changed
|
| float (948hp) | It's ambient lighting. There are two LEDs at each point. While driving, only one LED lights up in the color you selected in the iDrive settings - classic (amber) or modern (white). When you open the door, both LEDs light up white for better visibility.
|
| bug (371hp) | No it's not. I got a 2010 F10. This only happens with one of four lights in the doors. Right back door only. And it's the light on the entire bottom of the door... The light turns off when the car is locked and it's dimmable. Just to be safe (different car, not my picture) – but THIS light (behind alibaba.com) is on while driving. http://i01.i.aliimg.com/img/pb/369/5...515369_935.jpg
|
| 18061985 (700hp) | I didn't address your problem, but rather the question about the footwell lighting from the OP. I didn't realize the thread was 3 years old.
|
| petike (863hp) | OK no problem. Each could solve the other problem?
|
| mujeres (631hp) | The puddle light on the driver's door on my 2013 BMW 535i now turns on with parking lights and stays on at night with parking lights while the other three doors are off while driving. Does anyone have a solution??
|
| nene13 (297hp) | Quote: Originally posted by 535Individual The puddle light on the driver's door on my 2013 BMW 535i now turns on along with the parking lights and stays on at night with the parking lights while the other three doors are off while driving. Does anyone have a solution? I have the same problem in Formula 10 2012. The puddle light on the driver's door turns on when the door is closed and turns off when the door is open. What can I do???
|
| blondie01 (780hp) | I also had this problem on my front right door where the puddle light stayed on when the door was closed. 2012 535, purchased September 2015. And when I drive at night the light drives me crazy. My problem was faulty wiring in the surrounding door panel. What I've done or the best way to check if it's bad wiring is to park the car where you can really see the ambient light coming on, like in a garage or parking lot with bad ones lighting conditions at night. In the car, with the doors closed and the ambient lights on, check for a broken door. Check any ambient light (under the trim, on the door handle, in the side door pocket) on that door to see if it is illuminated. If one of these is not lit, that is the connector that should be connected to the puddle light. My puddle light was connected to the ambient light of my door handle. I then disassembled the door panel and had to reconnect the wiring to the correct location. I hope this helps.
|
| tangkay (804hp) | Quote: Originally posted by top ramen I also had this problem on my front right door where the puddle light stayed on when the door is closed. 2012 535, purchased September 2015. And when I drive at night the light drives me crazy. My problem was faulty wiring in the surrounding door panel. What I've done or the best way to check if it's bad wiring is to park the car where you can really see the ambient light coming on, like in a garage or parking lot with bad ones lighting conditions at night. In the car, with the doors closed and the ambient lights on, check for a broken door. Check any ambient light (under the trim, on the door handle, in the side door pocket) on that door to see if it is illuminated. If one of these is not lit, that is the connector that should be connected to the puddle light. My puddle light was connected to the ambient light of my door handle. I then disassembled the door panel and had to reconnect the wiring to the correct location. I hope this helps. I had this problem on my M5 after replacing the door panels. But I'm sure I'll have to take it to the mechanic soon
|
| zulu (413hp) | Hello Top Ramen, I have the same problem with both driver side doors on my F10 M5. Is this a difficult process? Do you have any further information please? Thank you in advance, Peter. Quote: Originally posted by top ramen. I also had this problem on my front right door where the puddle light stayed on when the door was closed. 2012 535, purchased September 2015. And when I drive at night the light drives me crazy. My problem was faulty wiring in the surrounding door panel. What I've done or the best way to check if it's bad wiring is to park the car where you can really see the ambient light coming on, like in a garage or parking lot with bad ones lighting conditions at night. In the car, with the doors closed and the ambient lights on, check for a broken door. Check any ambient light (under the trim, on the door handle, in the side door pocket) on that door to see if it is illuminated. If one of these is not lit, that is the connector that should be connected to the puddle light. My puddle light was connected to the ambient light of my door handle. I then disassembled the door panel and had to reconnect the wiring to the correct location. I hope this helps.
|
| romania1 (303hp) | Hello, I have the same problem only on the two rear doors. I also noticed that when I first unlocked the car, when I opened the door, all four lights worked. But I notice that after a minute the lights on the two back doors no longer work when you only open the front door. I also noticed that when I'm reversing, two lights come on and the only way I can turn them off is to turn off the light wheel on the left side of the driver's front right under the left vent. Has anyone been able to solve the problem or is there a solution??
|
| fucktard1 (461hp) | Wanted to ask the audience: I have owned the car for a little over two years, completely in original condition, driven by adults. Wanted to see what preventative maintenance you would recommend so far. As far as I know the car hasn't needed much and the only fluids changed are the fluids listed below. The car drives like a dream, with no leaks, problems or anything like that. Since owning it, I have *yet* not experienced any issues or CELs. Since I've owned it: ***Oil and filter change, new battery - Jan. 22 ***Oil and filter change, brake fluid, windshield wipers - Sept. 22 ***Oil and filter change, new engine and cabin filter, new tires and Alignment - Sept '23 Just last week I topped up the coolant because the iDrive told me it was almost empty. With original spark plugs. According to the Carfax report when I purchased it, the spark plugs were clean and cracked in August 2021. [***EDIT/UPDATE 03/18/24: Spark plugs were changed in August 2021***] No problems here either I'm with the car but plan on keeping it for a few more years. I know the problems with the timing of the Vanos, the turbo and the engine seals. I don't have an oil change due until September 2024 and at that point I wanted to bundle all the PM services recommended by the group. TIA
|
| 260983 (68hp) | Change the brake fluid every 2 years. And what do you mean by “adult-controlled.”“??
|
| pretty12 (622hp) | Plugs that are “clean and with gaps” would worry me. They have a disposable squeeze washer. I would replace them for safety reasons.
|
| 27051985 (405hp) | How much coolant did you add? Do you smell any coolant odor when the engine is warm? Look up Car Ninja on YouTube, he is an N63 master!
|
| justin92 (984hp) | Quote: Originally written by Trian. Brake fluid change every 2 years. And what do you mean by “adult-controlled”? I don't know... driven by adults? So not exaggerated or modified. occasional spirited driving.
|
| dochka (136hp) | Quote: Originally written by Walmark. Plugs that are “clean and gapped” would concern me. They have a disposable squeeze washer. I would replace them for safety reasons. I thought the same thing. I'm thinking about tackling this project as my next DIY project.
|
| zhjckfdf (648hp) | Quote: Originally written by Walmark. Plugs that are “clean and gapped” would concern me. They have a disposable squeeze washer. I would replace them for safety reasons. Did a quick Google search and found this: https://f80.bimmerpost.com/forums/sh....php?t=1728807 I guess I'll call the dealer that did the service and ask whether he can clarify this. I would think any BMW dealer that bothered to reach out to them would simply replace them.
|
| 080484 (127hp) | Quote: Originally written by Walmark. Plugs that are “clean and gapped” would concern me. They have a disposable squeeze washer. I would replace them for safety reasons. I just received clarification from the BMW dealer who serviced the spark plugs that they were replaced. I feel better now.
|
| 209california (315hp) | Quote: Originally posted by ChiltiCoatl89 How much coolant did you add? Do you smell any coolant odor when the engine is warm? Look up Car Ninja on YouTube, he's an N63 master! I don't think I have a fill line, so I added just enough to reach the bottom of the neck. I didn't smell anything, but after I added coolant the message on the iDrive disappeared.
|
| hayastan (674hp) | Nice ride!!! +1 on brake fluid every 2 years. I would recommend a coolant flush every 4 years. ZF recommends transmission service every 60,000 miles/8 years (fluid and filters). Since your mileage is so low, I would probably wait a little longer, but you arrive during the afternoon break. Additionally, when servicing the transmission fluid/filter, it is a good time to change the differential fluid(s) and transfer case (if 4WD). If you ever get tired of looking at the black reflectors on the front, IND Distribution will do the OEM paint job for you. They are a bit pricey but do an excellent job and the quality is top notch. In my opinion, anything is better than the standard orange, so good job with that!
|
| Dmc (39hp) | Quote: Originally written by ctcarbonari Have a nice trip!!! +1 on brake fluid every 2 years. I would recommend a coolant flush every 4 years. ZF recommends transmission service every 60,000 miles/8 years (fluid and filters). Since your mileage is so low, I would probably wait a little longer, but you arrive during the afternoon break. Additionally, when servicing the transmission fluid/filter, it is a good time to change the differential fluid(s) and transfer case (if 4WD). If you ever get tired of looking at the black reflectors on the front, IND Distribution will do the OEM paint job for you. They are a bit pricey but do an excellent job and the quality is top notch. Imho, anything is better than the standard orange, so good job with that! Thank you for the compliment! Appreciate your contribution. I will consider your advice for future PM intervals. I actually looked at the body color IND reflectors and found them a bit pricey for what I was looking for. I took some glossy black 3M vinyl and blackened it and that was enough for me!
|
| subwoofer (793hp) | Quote: Originally posted by SummerallGuard04 I just received clarification from the BMW dealer who serviced the spark plugs that they were replaced. I feel better now. This is great! Good to know that this is just a reporting error.
|
| psingam (694hp) |
|
| pcgears (760hp) | This flange is a very common problem. All these issues are applicable to N63, but N63Tu will be updated and some of the issues will be fixed in the update.
|
| kstorm93 (915hp) | Since you know his channel, I know there is a video of him specifically replacing the flange, maybe more than one video I'm sure. Please enjoy this guy because watching these Car Ninja videos has a therapeutic effect on me!
|
| dirtydog (948hp) | N63 dissection, great video for reference. Also a great channel that I follow as he does a B58 teardown and a few N55s.
|
| homegrown (41hp) | Wanted to ask the audience: I have owned the car for a little over two years, completely in original condition, driven by adults. Wanted to see what preventative maintenance you would recommend so far. As far as I know the car hasn't needed much and the only fluids changed are the fluids listed below. The car drives like a dream, with no leaks, problems or anything like that. Since owning it, I have *yet* not experienced any issues or CELs. Since I've owned it: ***Oil and filter change, new battery - Jan. 22 ***Oil and filter change, brake fluid, windshield wipers - Sept. 22 ***Oil and filter change, new engine and cabin filter, new tires and Alignment - Sept '23 Just last week I topped up the coolant because the iDrive told me it was almost empty. With original spark plugs. According to the Carfax report when I purchased it, the spark plugs were clean and cracked in August 2021. [***EDIT/UPDATE 03/18/24: Spark plugs were changed in August 2021***] No problems here either I'm with the car but plan on keeping it for a few more years. I know the problems with the timing of the Vanos, the turbo and the engine seals. I don't have an oil change due until September 2024 and at that point I wanted to bundle all the PM services recommended by the group. TIA
|
| bloodgang5 (852hp) | Change the brake fluid every 2 years. And what do you mean by “adult-controlled.”“??
.
|
All times are GMT -5. The time now is 01:58 AM.
