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199111 (315hp) I have a 2011 535i (purchased August 2010, N55 engine, no modifications, etc.) with barely 42,000 miles, of which maybe 100 miles were driven hard. The warranty ended in August 2014. Around February of this year (2015) I started shaking violently shortly after starting and the turbos wouldn't start. In 90% of cases, a simple reboot would bring everything back to normal. Then in May the car overheated (powertrain malfunction) and it turned out the coolant pump and thermostat needed to be replaced for $1,573. Not too shabby for a car I've paid $0 to maintain for the last five years. Completed! Then, earlier this month (December), the vibrations started becoming more frequent again and the car felt like it had a 900cc engine. It just had no momentum. I called BMW NA who told me to take it to the dealer and they would take care of it. The dealer diagnoses it and says the HPFP has crashed and it will cost about $1,800 + a new fuel rail. Of course BMW NA waives this and apologizes, we cannot cover anything. The retailer offered a 15% discount and I took it. An hour before I'm supposed to pick up the car, the dealer calls and says he has good news. It turns out that the HPFP has a CA specific 7 year/70,000 mile recall/warranty and my new bill is about $250 for a new low pressure sensor. Not too shabby. Anyway...post this here in case anyone else has problems like this. If you live in California and have paid to replace your car's HPFP, you should shop around and potentially get your money back.

11121992 (57hp)

travel2 (561hp) I caught mine before it completely failed and BMW replaced it under my CPO warranty. I had no riding problems, but on the first start of the day the crank times became longer than usual and was diagnosed with HPFP. Thanks for sharing, this will help someone.

spyder (44hp) What are the common symptoms other than a check engine light and drivetrain malfunction? The car has been idling a bit rough lately. I'm not sure if this has anything to do with the change in the weather here in New York, it's rained quite a bit in the last 48 hours and it's been warm and humid.

07051979 (354hp) Pramit, PM sent! My car is currently at the dealer due to an HPFP error and they are trying to charge me for the replacement. Do you have documentation regarding the specific CA-specific recall? Thanks!

26121989 (936hp) Quote: Originally written by hamanncheese Pramit, PM sent! My car is currently at the dealer due to an HPFP error and they are trying to charge me for the replacement. Do you have documentation regarding the specific CA-specific recall? Thanks! Thanks for the help, Pramit. Irvine BMW replaced my HPFP today free of charge. However, they initially misdiagnosed the high pressure fuel sensor as the culprit, requiring two separate visits. I'm glad BMW is taking care of this issue after the warranty period. As a side note, the SA said the new pump (part number 13517616170) is the most current version and much more reliable. We'll see...

alcala (238hp) I have a 2011 535i (purchased August 2010, N55 engine, no modifications, etc.) with barely 42,000 miles, of which maybe 100 miles were driven hard. The warranty ended in August 2014. Around February of this year (2015) I started shaking violently shortly after starting and the turbos wouldn't start. In 90% of cases, a simple reboot would bring everything back to normal. Then in May the car overheated (powertrain malfunction) and it turned out the coolant pump and thermostat needed to be replaced for $1,573. Not too shabby for a car I've paid $0 to maintain for the last five years. Completed! Then, earlier this month (December), the vibrations started becoming more frequent again and the car felt like it had a 900cc engine. It just had no momentum. I called BMW NA who told me to take it to the dealer and they would take care of it. The dealer diagnoses it and says the HPFP has crashed and it will cost about $1,800 + a new fuel rail. Of course BMW NA waives this and apologizes, we cannot cover anything. The retailer offered a 15% discount and I took it. An hour before I'm supposed to pick up the car, the dealer calls and says he has good news. It turns out that the HPFP has a CA specific 7 year/70,000 mile recall/warranty and my new bill is about $250 for a new low pressure sensor. Not too shabby. Anyway...post this here in case anyone else has problems like this. If you live in California and have paid to replace your car's HPFP, you should shop around and potentially get your money back.

bjang (78hp)

wybe4591 (616hp) I caught mine before it completely failed and BMW replaced it under my CPO warranty. I had no riding problems, but on the first start of the day the crank times became longer than usual and was diagnosed with HPFP. Thanks for sharing, this will help someone.

patito1 (854hp) What are the common symptoms other than a check engine light and drivetrain malfunction? The car has been idling a bit rough lately. I'm not sure if this has anything to do with the change in the weather here in New York, it's rained quite a bit in the last 48 hours and it's been warm and humid.

jorgec (805hp) Pramit, PM sent! My car is currently at the dealer due to an HPFP error and they are trying to charge me for the replacement. Do you have documentation regarding the specific CA-specific recall? Thanks!

fuckyou66 (55hp) Quote: Originally written by hamanncheese Pramit, PM sent! My car is currently at the dealer due to an HPFP error and they are trying to charge me for the replacement. Do you have documentation regarding the specific CA-specific recall? Thanks! Thanks for the help, Pramit. Irvine BMW replaced my HPFP today free of charge. However, they initially misdiagnosed the high pressure fuel sensor as the culprit, requiring two separate visits. I'm glad BMW is taking care of this issue after the warranty period. As a side note, the SA said the new pump (part number 13517616170) is the most current version and much more reliable. We'll see...

romantica (924hp) I installed a pair of Morimoto Elite HIDs in my fog lights. They look great, but the problem is that I only get an error message when they are turned off. As soon as I create it, the error message disappears. I bought the Morimotos from a forum member and he said he didn't get any error messages when he installed them. What could be the problem???

BigT (266hp) Someone?

200483 (591hp) Do you have a Canbus decoder?? ?

tito123 (423hp) This is pretty standard on CANBUS cars. The fault canceler prevents a fault during operation, but does not provide the resistance to turn off the fault when the lights are off

231093 (601hp) Quote: Originally posted by 550Reasons Do you have a Canbus decoder? Yes, they do

ahapxuct (458hp) Quote: Originally written by n3985, this is pretty standard for CANBUS cars. The fault canceler prevents a fault during operation, but does not provide the resistance to clear the fault when the lights are off. I called theretrofitsource.com and they said BMWs do a hot and cold check. A hot test occurs when the light is on and a cold test occurs when the light is off. They said I could maybe double the Canbus decoder, but I wanted to see if anyone else might have gone through this. Morimoto HIDs are supposed to be error-free. It also seems that only one side shows the error when it is turned off

january16 (704hp) Yes, I've heard of people using 2. I was lucky and only needed one, no errors on or off.

epiphone3 (844hp) Quote: Originally posted by 550Reasons Yes, I've heard of people using 2. I was lucky and only needed one, no errors on or off. I think I'll order another Canbus decoder and see what happens

15091977 (436hp) I have the exact same HID setup and mine has worked fine for almost a year. Took my car in for service and I'm not sure what they did but now only one side works (passenger side). I swapped the hardware from one side to the other, so I'm sure it's a software problem with the car. I still haven't solved it. Very annoying.

shabba (19hp) Quote: Originally written by Bake. I have the exact same HID setup and mine has worked fine for almost a year. Took my car in for service and I'm not sure what they did but now only one side works (passenger side). I swapped the hardware from one side to the other, so I'm sure it's a software problem with the car. I still haven't solved it. Very annoying. Man, this sucks, how about putting the supplies back to see if they work? Then take it back to the dealer and try to get it checked under warranty

sweex (969hp) Quote: Originally posted by TJBentley Man this sucks, what if you put the supplies back to see if they work? Then take it back to the dealer and have it looked at under warranty. The stocks have been back for over a year now and are working perfectly. I tried reinstalling the HIDs twice with the same result. I'm convinced they updated something in the software and it no longer works. I really liked the HIDs, especially in the winter, so I can see potholes better. I have 3000,000 light bulbs, so they are yellow.

f1f2f3f4f5 (490hp) Kevin, I think if it has something to do with the year of the car that TJBentley has. TJ, yours is 2011? Mine was a 2013..

080681 (763hp) Quote: Originally posted by gtmassive75 Kevin, I think if it has to do with the year of the car TJBentley has. TJ, yours is 2011? Mine was a 2013. Looks like TJ has a 2012, mine is a 2011. I don't think the year matters. I think there are different versions of the software that the dealer can flash onto your car and therein lies the difference. They won't fix the problem because from their perspective the fog lights work fine and don't give any error messages. If I get errors with an aftermarket product, it's my fault, not theirs.

shark (668hp) Quote: Originally posted by TJBentley I installed a pair of Morimoto Elite HIDs in my fog lights. They look great, but the problem is that I only get an error message when they are turned off. As soon as I create it, the error message disappears. I bought the Morimotos from a forum member and he said he didn't get any error messages when he installed them. What could be the problem?? I bought a pair a while ago (I'm not sure what brand) and they were supposed to be flawless, but had the same situation as yours. Error when off and normal when on. However, for me the error disappeared after about 10 minutes when the fog lights were turned off. Anyway, I programmed so that the light traffic jam warning no longer appears. It's all good..

1356 (461hp) Quote: Originally posted by gtmassive75 Kevin, I think if it has to do with the year of the car TJBentley has. TJ, yours is 2011? Mine was a 2013. Mine is a 2012. The retrofitsource rep said some cars might just be more sensitive than others

marlen1 (341hp) Quote: Originally posted by Bake Quote: Originally posted by TJBentley Dude, what if you put the supplies back to see if they work? Then take it back to the dealer and have it looked at under warranty. The stocks have been back for over a year now and are working perfectly. I tried reinstalling the HIDs twice with the same result. I'm convinced they updated something in the software and it no longer works. I really liked the HIDs, especially in the winter, so I can see potholes better. I have 3000,000 light bulbs, so they are yellow. That's crazy, but yeah, like you said, the dealer doesn't care if you have a problem with a replacement part..

pimp55 (63hp) Quote: Originally posted by kohsin Quote: Originally posted by TJBentley I installed a pair of Morimoto Elite HIDs in my fog lights. They look great, but the problem is that I only get an error message when they are turned off. As soon as I create it, the error message disappears. I bought the Morimotos from a forum member and he said he didn't get any error messages when he installed them. What could be the problem?? I bought a pair a while ago (I'm not sure what brand) and they were supposed to be flawless, but had the same situation as yours. Error when off and normal when on. However, for me the error disappeared after about 10 minutes when the fog lights were turned off. Anyway, I programmed so that the light traffic jam warning no longer appears. It's all good. Yes, I think I may have to do the same if I can't get them to work without the error

16051992 (798hp) I installed a pair of Morimoto Elite HIDs in my fog lights. They look great, but the problem is that I only get an error message when they are turned off. As soon as I create it, the error message disappears. I bought the Morimotos from a forum member and he said he didn't get any error messages when he installed them. What could be the problem???

chinedu1 (123hp) Someone?

edelweiss (165hp) Do you have a Canbus decoder?? ?

sierra12 (629hp) This is pretty standard on CANBUS cars. The fault canceler prevents a fault during operation, but does not provide the resistance to turn off the fault when the lights are off

196900 (256hp) Quote: Originally posted by 550Reasons Do you have a Canbus decoder? Yes, they do

paupau (727hp) Quote: Originally written by n3985, this is pretty standard for CANBUS cars. The fault canceler prevents a fault during operation, but does not provide the resistance to clear the fault when the lights are off. I called theretrofitsource.com and they said BMWs do a hot and cold check. A hot test occurs when the light is on and a cold test occurs when the light is off. They said I could maybe double the Canbus decoder, but I wanted to see if anyone else might have gone through this. Morimoto HIDs are supposed to be error-free. It also seems that only one side shows the error when it is turned off

Mysecondwife (766hp) Yes, I've heard of people using 2. I was lucky and only needed one, no errors on or off.

jojo13 (90hp) Quote: Originally posted by 550Reasons Yes, I've heard of people using 2. I was lucky and only needed one, no errors on or off. I think I'll order another Canbus decoder and see what happens

spuvd (501hp) I have the exact same HID setup and mine has worked fine for almost a year. Took my car in for service and I'm not sure what they did but now only one side works (passenger side). I swapped the hardware from one side to the other, so I'm sure it's a software problem with the car. I still haven't solved it. Very annoying.

sugarplum (352hp) Quote: Originally written by Bake. I have the exact same HID setup and mine has worked fine for almost a year. Took my car in for service and I'm not sure what they did but now only one side works (passenger side). I swapped the hardware from one side to the other, so I'm sure it's a software problem with the car. I still haven't solved it. Very annoying. Man, this sucks, how about putting the supplies back to see if they work? Then take it back to the dealer and try to get it checked under warranty

280690 (553hp) Quote: Originally posted by TJBentley Man this sucks, what if you put the supplies back to see if they work? Then take it back to the dealer and have it looked at under warranty. The stocks have been back for over a year now and are working perfectly. I tried reinstalling the HIDs twice with the same result. I'm convinced they updated something in the software and it no longer works. I really liked the HIDs, especially in the winter, so I can see potholes better. I have 3000,000 light bulbs, so they are yellow.

150293 (898hp) Kevin, I think if it has something to do with the year of the car that TJBentley has. TJ, yours is 2011? Mine was a 2013..

Orjan (194hp) Quote: Originally posted by gtmassive75 Kevin, I think if it has to do with the year of the car TJBentley has. TJ, yours is 2011? Mine was a 2013. Looks like TJ has a 2012, mine is a 2011. I don't think the year matters. I think there are different versions of the software that the dealer can flash onto your car and therein lies the difference. They won't fix the problem because from their perspective the fog lights work fine and don't give any error messages. If I get errors with an aftermarket product, it's my fault, not theirs.

angelheart (742hp) Quote: Originally posted by TJBentley I installed a pair of Morimoto Elite HIDs in my fog lights. They look great, but the problem is that I only get an error message when they are turned off. As soon as I create it, the error message disappears. I bought the Morimotos from a forum member and he said he didn't get any error messages when he installed them. What could be the problem?? I bought a pair a while ago (I'm not sure what brand they are) and they should be flawless but had the same situation as yours. Error when off and normal when on. However, for me the error disappeared after about 10 minutes when the fog lights were turned off. Anyway, I programmed so that the light traffic jam warning no longer appears. It's all good..

repmvbyf (948hp) Quote: Originally posted by gtmassive75 Kevin, I think if it has to do with the year of the car TJBentley has. TJ, yours is 2011? Mine was a 2013. Mine is a 2012. The retrofitsource rep said some cars might just be more sensitive than others

100800 (979hp) Quote: Originally posted by Bake Quote: Originally posted by TJBentley Dude, what if you put the supplies back to see if they work? Then take it back to the dealer and have it looked at under warranty. The stocks have been back for over a year now and are working perfectly. I tried reinstalling the HIDs twice with the same result. I'm convinced they updated something in the software and it no longer works. I really liked the HIDs, especially in the winter, so I can see potholes better. I have 3000,000 light bulbs, so they are yellow. That's crazy, but yeah, like you said, the dealer doesn't care if you have a problem with a replacement part..

abcd (512hp) Quote: Originally posted by kohsin Quote: Originally posted by TJBentley I installed a pair of Morimoto Elite HIDs in my fog lights. They look great, but the problem is that I only get an error message when they are turned off. As soon as I create it, the error message disappears. I bought the Morimotos from a forum member and he said he didn't get any error messages when he installed them. What could be the problem?? I bought a pair a while ago (I'm not sure what brand) and they were supposed to be flawless, but had the same situation as yours. Error when off and normal when on. However, for me the error disappeared after about 10 minutes when the fog lights were turned off. Anyway, I programmed so that the light traffic jam warning no longer appears. It's all good. Yes, I think I may have to do the same if I can't get them to work without the error

joinme (181hp) I called to schedule service and was told there was a recall on the ECU. Does anyone know details about this??

stupido (305hp) Quote: Originally posted by Ben2k9 I called to schedule service and was told there was a recall on the ECU. Does anyone know details about this? Which control unit? Fuel pump control unit? I drive the ECU ??

marissa3 (316hp) Any update???

bitch (391hp) Quote: Originally posted by Teddylongtooth Is there an update??? They said it was a software update regarding emissions... I just had it done. That's all I know

Brian N (655hp) Software update = recall?

14081995 (115hp) Bleh, that might erase my coding =l

ruth123 (586hp) I called to schedule service and was told there was a recall on the ECU. Does anyone know details about this??

mamimami (932hp) Quote: Originally posted by Ben2k9 I called to schedule service and was told there was a recall on the ECU. Does anyone know details about this? Which control unit? Fuel pump control unit? I drive the ECU ??

123haha (911hp) Any update???

artbugman (255hp) Quote: Originally posted by Teddylongtooth Is there an update??? They said it was a software update regarding emissions... I just had it done. That's all I know

211076 (643hp) Software update = recall?

301085 (128hp) Bleh, that might erase my coding =l

kj (409hp) Wiki claims that it uses the 8HP50, which is only rated for 370 ft/lbs, which is already 40 less than the stock engine's horsepower, so I question its validity. https://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/ZF_8HP_transmission I would somehow expect it to use the 8HP70 or 8HP75, but I can't find any documentation anywhere.

denzel1 (402hp) 8HP70 – you can search for almost any part for your car on realoem.com

Noor (989hp) Quote: Originally posted by SonicEndeavor 8HP70 - You can look up almost any part for your car on realoem.com. Thanks

beltran (163hp) Wiki claims that it uses the 8HP50, which is only rated for 370 ft/lbs, which is already 40 less than the stock engine's horsepower, so I question its validity. https://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/ZF_8HP_transmission I would somehow expect it to use the 8HP70 or 8HP75, but I can't find any documentation anywhere.

superior1 (983hp) 8HP70 – you can search for almost any part for your car on realoem.com

iloveyou4ever (364hp) Quote: Originally posted by SonicEndeavor 8HP70 - You can look up almost any part for your car on realoem.com. Thanks

anglia (387hp) Hi guys, I would like to have my F10 520i front kit upgraded to F10 535i calipers with 348x36mm rotors OR F01 750i calipers with 374x36mm rotors. I found that the 535i setup is compatible and bolts on directly. Please inform us if the F01 750i front brake set is also interchangeable with our F10? Thanks and cheers!

dididi (414hp) Quote: Originally posted by NuBeetle Hi guys, I would like to have my F10 520i front kit upgraded to F10 535i calipers with 348x36mm rotors OR F01 750i calipers with 374x36mm rotors. I found that the 535i setup is compatible and bolts on directly. Please inform us if the F01 750i front brake set is also interchangeable with our F10? Thanks and cheers! WHY??

djaemac (365hp) Quote: Originally written by 535MSport WHY?? Exactly what I thought

saving (571hp) Quote: Originally written by 535MSport WHY?? As a budget upgrade, direct bolt-on looks better and beefier with larger calipers and rotors. Sir, any ideas? F01 750i brake calipers are compatible with F10?

18091992 (627hp) I suspect the 750i and 550i should be the same, I don't see why not because to fit M5 calipers on another F10 they all need the same bracket. So I guess it should be spot on, but don't quote me lol

lac (422hp) Quote: Originally posted by NuBeetle As a budget upgrade, direct bolt-on looks better and beefier with larger calipers and rotors. Sir, any ideas? F01 750i brake calipers are compatible with F10? I understand what you're saying, but do you have a setting on the car that requires greater braking power? If not, why not just have them painted??

199105 (859hp) I suspect he's just concerned with aesthetics

sara7272 (900hp) Quote: Originally posted by The Beast I understand what you're saying, but do you have a setup on the car that requires greater braking power? If not, why not just have them painted? It's a bit like bigger breasts on our women. We all want them, even if they are useless, they just look good

cincin (7hp) Quote: Originally written by Teddylongtooth. It's a bit like bigger breasts on our women. We all want them, even if they are useless, they just look good

account123 (902hp) Quote: Originally written by Teddylongtooth. It's a bit like bigger breasts on our women. We all want them, even if they are useless, they just look good. Useless? They are for motorboating! Oh, and at the gym I look at them for 60 seconds during my rest periods between sets! I just noticed that during my approximately 1.5 hour workout, I spend 20 minutes staring at my breasts

shesthe1 (16hp)

mcadori (148hp) Quote: Originally posted by NuBeetle As a budget upgrade, direct bolt-on looks better and beefier with larger calipers and rotors. Sir, any ideas? F01 750i brake calipers are compatible with F10? You could start looking for a big brake upgrade kit like Brembo or Stop Tech.

ganesh123 (461hp) Personally I think this is a huge waste of money that could be much better spent elsewhere and offer much better value for money.

M Turbo (816hp) Quote: Originally posted by 535MSport Personally I think this is a huge waste of money that could be much better spent elsewhere and provide much better value for money. totally agree!

david33 (371hp) I'm thinking about upgrading my brake set to M5 or Stoptech Big Brake. During my 10 hour drive from Calgary to Vancouver, the brake faded halfway through, which is quite dangerous (my C63 had a two-piece brake and would never fade). My car is also tuned with a stage 2.5.

sammy5 (128hp) Quote: Originally posted by snowmuch I'm thinking about upgrading my big brake kit to M5 or Stoptech. During my 10 hour drive from Calgary to Vancouver, the brake faded halfway through, which is quite dangerous (my C63 had a two-piece brake and would never fade). My car is also tuned to level 2.5. I've read some pretty good reviews from people who have upgraded to the R1 concept setups

qba335i (324hp) Hi guys, I would like to have my F10 520i front kit upgraded to F10 535i calipers with 348x36mm rotors OR F01 750i calipers with 374x36mm rotors. I found that the 535i setup is compatible and bolts on directly. Please inform us if the F01 750i front brake set is also interchangeable with our F10? Thanks and cheers!

hacked1 (131hp) Quote: Originally posted by NuBeetle Hi guys, I would like to have my F10 520i front kit upgraded to F10 535i calipers with 348x36mm rotors OR F01 750i calipers with 374x36mm rotors. I found that the 535i setup is compatible and bolts on directly. Please inform us if the F01 750i front brake set is also interchangeable with our F10? Thanks and cheers! WHY??

6666661 (226hp) Sorry listed in wrong category, added audio now. Firstly, I'm 100% committed to the device I want to go for for a variety of reasons: SQ potential, plug and play, proven track record with happy owners here, etc. By the way, if you or someone who knows someone , who is selling a used model, are interested in it, you have also opened a thread in the “Wanted” section. You also don't mind if it is shipped worldwide. My problem is that I'm caught between the two. I would like more performance than the 62 at 35 RMS per channel, but alternatively the 82 is almost 200 euros more, for 8 channels and much more RMS per channel, 55 RMS from my point of view. Don't beat me up, audiophiles, but I'll be running my Focal K2 passively as it's simpler and less messy and enough to keep me happy. So the question is whether I really need the 8 channels of the PP82DSP or whether it's worth the extra for more effective power. Any thoughts or suggestions on which one I should buy, by the way I chose one of these two devices so please don't let them influence me 5/6 channel pp62dsp http://www.audiotec-fischer.de/lng/en/pp - 62dsp.html Or the 8-channel pp82dsp http://www.audiotec-fischer.de/lng/e.../pp-82dsp.html

morrowind1 (711hp) Quote: Originally written by 535MSport WHY?? Exactly what I thought

dort (459hp) Sorry listed in wrong category, added audio now. Firstly, I'm 100% committed to the device I want to go for for a variety of reasons: SQ potential, plug and play, proven track record with happy owners here, etc. By the way, if you or someone who knows someone , who is selling a used model, are interested in it, you have also opened a thread in the “Wanted” section. You also don't mind if it is shipped worldwide. My problem is that I'm caught between the two. I would like more performance than the 62 at 35 RMS per channel, but alternatively the 82 is almost 200 euros more, for 8 channels and much more RMS per channel, 55 RMS from my point of view. Don't beat me up, audiophiles, but I'll be running my Focal K2 passively as it's simpler and less messy and enough to keep me happy. So the question is whether I really need the 8 channels of the PP82DSP or whether it's worth the extra for more effective power. Any thoughts or suggestions on which one I should buy, by the way I chose one of these two devices so please don't let them influence me 5/6 channel pp62dsp http://www.audiotec-fischer.de/lng/en/pp - 62dsp.html Or the 8-channel pp82dsp http://www.audiotec-fischer.de/lng/e.../pp-82dsp.html

mackdaddy1 (978hp) Quote: Originally written by 535MSport WHY?? As a budget upgrade, direct bolt-on looks better and beefier with larger calipers and rotors. Sir, any ideas? F01 750i brake calipers are compatible with F10?

220289 (819hp) I suspect the 750i and 550i should be the same, I don't see why not because to fit M5 calipers on another F10 they all need the same bracket. So I guess it should be spot on, but don't quote me lol

kitten3 (311hp) Quote: Originally posted by NuBeetle As a budget upgrade, direct bolt-on looks better and beefier with larger calipers and rotors. Sir, any ideas? F01 750i brake calipers are compatible with F10? I understand what you're saying, but do you have a setting on the car that requires greater braking power? If not, why not just have them painted??

adrian06 (963hp) I suspect he's just concerned with aesthetics

boondock (690hp) Quote: Originally posted by The Beast I understand what you're saying, but do you have a setup on the car that requires greater braking power? If not, why not just have them painted? It's a bit like bigger breasts on our women. We all want them, even if they are useless, they just look good

13031987 (633hp) Quote: Originally written by Teddylongtooth. It's a bit like bigger breasts on our women. We all want them, even if they are useless, they just look good

finger (422hp) Quote: Originally written by Teddylongtooth. It's a bit like bigger breasts on our women. We all want them, even if they are useless, they just look good. Useless? They are for motorboating! Oh, and at the gym I look at them for 60 seconds during my rest periods between sets! I just noticed that during my approximately 1.5 hour workout, I spend 20 minutes staring at my breasts

160791 (131hp)

george77 (634hp) Quote: Originally posted by NuBeetle As a budget upgrade, direct bolt-on looks better and beefier with larger calipers and rotors. Sir, any ideas? F01 750i brake calipers are compatible with F10? You could start looking for a big brake upgrade kit like Brembo or Stop Tech.

170794 (805hp) Personally I think this is a huge waste of money that could be much better spent elsewhere and offer much better value for money.

06031986 (108hp) Quote: Originally posted by 535MSport Personally I think this is a huge waste of money that could be much better spent elsewhere and provide much better value for money. totally agree!

rummer (274hp) I'm thinking about upgrading my brake set to M5 or Stoptech Big Brake. During my 10 hour drive from Calgary to Vancouver, the brake faded halfway through, which is quite dangerous (my C63 had a two-piece brake and would never fade). My car is also tuned with a stage 2.5.

Joshua1 (115hp) Quote: Originally posted by snowmuch I'm thinking about upgrading my big brake kit to M5 or Stoptech. During my 10 hour drive from Calgary to Vancouver, the brake faded halfway through, which is quite dangerous (my C63 had a two-piece brake and would never fade). My car is also tuned to level 2.5. I've read some pretty good reviews from people who have upgraded to the R1 concept setups

199021 (684hp) Which is considered the “best” minus errors and economics? 313 hp version or others?

1chevy (391hp) I haven't seen or heard of any significant problems with either the 35d or 30d variants. So one is more powerful, the other is probably more economical. Make your picture based on that, but I think in practice a smaller engine would suit you better if you want economy, so to me the 535d makes the most sense of the 3.0 engines.

fuckof (98hp) Quote: Originally posted by mobilejo I haven't seen or heard of any significant problems with either the 35d or 30d variants. So one is more powerful, the other is probably more economical. Make your picture based on that, but I think in practice a smaller engine would suit you better if you want economy, so to me the 535d makes the most sense of the 3.0 engines. Saving with 2.0 makes no sense, most drivers drive 150-160. 0.5 liter difference, shocking, 2.0 is complete nonsense, I've heard about the economy on the 520d but that doesn't seem to be true. Too little difference and no real economy with 2.0 diesel on F10. Thanks

uxkaoscom (615hp) I'd take 35d if you could find one, I've driven versions of both engines. My previous E70 had the 3.0sd engine, the twin turbo version in the 35d. This engine was an absolute beast! I remapped it so it made 350 hp and 700 Nm of torque. When my E70 was written off, I needed a car relatively quickly and couldn't find a 35d for sale. I found my current car, a 530d, which had a BMW performance package that offered about 25hp more than the standard model and was well equipped so I decided I couldn't wait any longer for a 35d. Both engines are great, the main difference for me is at the top. Both are the same right out of the box, but where the 30d lacked urgency once the turbo had done its job, the 35d has the second turbo that kicks in and just keeps pulling. To be honest, I drive in the city most of the time, so I don't really notice the difference from day to day. Especially when pulling away to overtake on a country road, I notice that I really miss the second turbo. You can take advantage of the smallest gaps in traffic to overtake.

230877 (560hp) Which is considered the “best” minus errors and economics? 313 hp version or others?

gamefreak (557hp) I haven't seen or heard of any significant problems with either the 35d or 30d variants. So one is more powerful, the other is probably more economical. Make your picture based on that, but I think in practice a smaller engine would suit you better if you want economy, so to me the 535d makes the most sense of the 3.0 engines.

#1hottie (811hp) Quote: Originally posted by mobilejo I haven't seen or heard of any significant problems with either the 35d or 30d variants. So one is more powerful, the other is probably more economical. Make your picture based on that, but I think in practice a smaller engine would suit you better if you want economy, so to me the 535d makes the most sense of the 3.0 engines. Saving with 2.0 makes no sense, most drivers drive 150-160. 0.5 liter difference, shocking, 2.0 is complete nonsense, I've heard about the economy on the 520d but that doesn't seem to be true. Too little difference and no real economy with 2.0 diesel on F10. Thanks

djalo0 (937hp) I'd take 35d if you could find one, I've driven versions of both engines. My previous E70 had the 3.0sd engine, the twin turbo version in the 35d. This engine was an absolute beast! I remapped it so it made 350 hp and 700 Nm of torque. When my E70 was written off, I needed a car relatively quickly and couldn't find a 35d for sale. I found my current car, a 530d, which had a BMW performance package that offered about 25 hp more than the standard model and was well equipped so I decided I couldn't wait any longer for a 35d. Both engines are great, the main difference for me is at the top. Both are the same right out of the box, but where the 30d lacked urgency once the turbo had done its job, the 35d has the second turbo that kicks in and just keeps pulling. To be honest, I drive in the city most of the time, so I don't really notice the difference from day to day. Especially when pulling away to overtake on a country road, I notice that I really miss the second turbo. You can take advantage of the smallest gaps in traffic to overtake.

acer123 (878hp) Besides buying a bulky key fob holder (I haven't found one I like yet), what is the best way to differentiate keys for two different drivers in one household? I've occasionally gotten the wrong key and adopted my wife's settings and vice versa.

scandal (660hp) Quote: Originally posted by wheresmy5 Besides buying a bulky key fob holder (I haven't found one I like yet), what is the best way to differentiate keys for two different drivers in one household? I've occasionally gotten the wrong key and adopted my wife's settings and vice versa. How about a mark on the back of one of the tags???

170977 (502hp) I wanted something more sophisticated.

01061975 (684hp) Maybe try these leather bags? There are them on the BMW website, but they are very simple. You can find different versions on eBay. http://www.shopbmwusa.com/Product/23...THER-KEY-CASES

banana! (203hp) Quote: Originally written by wheresmy5. Wanted something a little more sophisticated. Well then... This?????

love2 (662hp) Older BMW keys came with these little color-coded stickers that fit into a recess on the back of the keys. This way you could identify each key. I'm not sure if they still have that. I didn't buy my car new, so I wasn't surprised that I didn't receive any stickers when I purchased it.

eric1234 (443hp) Quote: Originally posted by wheresmy5. What is the best way to distinguish between keys for two different drivers in one household? Mine is used, slightly visible and has been dropped a few times, my wife's isn't, or it barely looks brand new - which I also like. I know I'm not helping you at all

nixon1 (313hp) Quote: Originally written by ezaircon4jc Well then... That????? These are great, I've had one for 2 years and it still holds up perfectly. Super durable and installation only takes about 5 seconds. Taking it off is a bit difficult unless you have a pry tool/screwdriver handy.

priyanka1 (373hp) Quote: Originally posted by Aaron@Autosource Quote: Originally posted by ezaircon4jc Well then... This????? These are great, I've had one for 2 years and it still holds up perfectly. Super durable and installation only takes about 5 seconds. Taking it off is a bit difficult unless you have a pry tool/screwdriver handy. Thanks everyone, I'll try the shiny case. Not ideal, but better than the cheese leather models in my opinion. Somewhat relevantly, this morning all my presets mysteriously disappeared. No problem with the keychain as I ran into the house to try the other keychain and it was still missing presets. Ironically, this happened the day after I posted this thread.

shenmue (219hp) Quote: Originally posted by wheresmy5 Thanks everyone, I'll try the shiny case. Not ideal, but better than the cheese leather models in my opinion. Somewhat relevantly, this morning all my presets mysteriously disappeared. No problem with the keychain as I ran into the house to try the other keychain and it was still missing presets. Ironically, this happened the day after I posted this thread. Your follower is upset that you want to attract him and has deleted all of your preferences...

demonio (221hp) Do you keep your keys in different places? Use a keychain?

14081982 (513hp) Quote: Originally posted by wheresmy5 Quote: Originally posted by Aaron@Autosource Quote: Originally posted by ezaircon4jc Well then... This????? These are great, I've had one for 2 years and it still holds up perfectly. Super durable and installation only takes about 5 seconds. Taking it off is a bit difficult unless you have a pry tool/screwdriver handy. Thanks everyone, I'll try the shiny case. Not ideal, but better than the cheese leather models in my opinion. Somewhat relevantly, this morning all my presets mysteriously disappeared. No problem with the keychain as I ran into the house to try the other keychain and it was still missing presets. Ironically, this happened the day after I posted this thread. I'm pretty sure this happened because I initially started the car with the b button (no defaults). Brought key A out of the house, left key B in the house, turned off the engine and started it again, but the car must have cached the key B settings because the defaults didn't show up. However, when I got back in the car in the afternoon using button a, there were no problems... The default settings appeared again.

mr1234 (858hp) My solution is eBay stickers

119110 (523hp) Quote: Originally posted by snowmuch My solution is eBay stickers I was looking for...I thought I saved this page...

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