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| cool98 (661hp) | Quote: Originally posted by Kyddo112. I did make them, but had to test them before I had them painted. They fit so well I didn't even bother testing the other side lol AWESOME! I will end up ordering from the same seller since shipping is free, BOOYAH!
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| Gunz335xi (155hp) | Any of you who use aftermarket M Sport side skirts will see small defects like the front bumper ?
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| teresa12 (673hp) | Quote: Originally posted by dadysev Have any of you using aftermarket M Sport side skirts seen small defects like the front bumper? I'm interested and will be looking for a pair next month. I just wanted to go for the copy on eBay for $134 with free shipping.
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| bulldog5 (658hp) | Any links to the articles considering the Harman side skirts
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| qwerty94 (488hp) | I bought a set on eBay. The best price was $100 including shipping. Great deal except painting is $250 for a total of $350. Installed it myself and it wasn't too bad. The fit is perfect, just like the original manufacturer. It was difficult to install them on the rear door hinges, so there are scratches there, but you can't see them unless you look closely when the doors are open. I can post pictures if you really want to.
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| Artur-F10 (193hp) | Quote: Originally posted by ndinh I bought a set on eBay...best price was $100 including shipping. Great deal except painting is $250 for a total of $350. Installed it myself and it wasn't too bad. The fit is perfect, just like the original manufacturer. It was difficult to install them on the rear door hinges, so there are scratches there, but you can't see them unless you look closely when the doors are open. I can post pictures if you really want to. Can you post a link from eBay?
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| daxter (457hp) | Quote: Originally posted by lsturbointeg. Can you post a link from eBay? I just checked and saw that the seller no longer has these on eBay. I think if you choose Taiwan-made M-Tech/M5 side skirts, you'll be fine. Here is the original link for your reference: http://www.ebay.com/itm/171236559824...%3AMEBIDX%3AIT
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| agape1 (261hp) | Quote: Originally written by ndinh. I just checked and saw that the seller no longer has these on eBay. I think if you choose Taiwan-made M-Tech/M5 side skirts, you'll be fine. Here is the original link for your reference: http://www.ebay.com/itm/171236559824...%3AMEBIDX%3AIT Are they easy to remove and install? I suspect screws or clips on the bottom and just pull on the top ?
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| forever14 (963hp) | Quote: Originally written by dadysev. Is the device easy to remove and install? I'm guessing screws or brackets on the bottom and just pulling on the top? I haven't checked, but I'm sure these are screws and mounting brackets? It couldn't be too hard as the front bumper was pretty easy to take off... how much more side skirts?! I was really thinking about going for these carbon fiber Seibon skirts!
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| mahalqoh (451hp) | Quote: Originally written by lsturbointeg. I haven't checked, but I'm sure these are screws and mounting brackets? Couldn't be too hard as the front bumper was pretty easy to take off... how much more side skirts?! I was really thinking about going for these carbon fiber Seibon skirts! the ones I can perhaps see with imperfections. Maybe they look better on a white or light colored car?
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| 310778 (220hp) | Quote: Originally posted by dadysev which I may see with imperfections. Maybe it will look better on a white or light car? Have you considered doing it since Vivid Racing wants $675 for these skirts? He said they installed a pair in an M5 and the fit was spot on. I still have to decide by spring or I'll choose the Msport side skirts with the carbon fiber side skirt extensions.
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| RPLB530 (484hp) | Quote: Originally written by dadysev. Is the device easy to remove and install? I'm guessing screws or brackets on the bottom and just pulling on the top? Yes, it's about 8 screws + a few locking pins. There is a clip on the back that you can reuse with the new aprons. There is a hidden locking pin or screw in the middle (I can't remember right now) that you can't see until you remove all the screws. I broke one because I didn't know it was there. Once all screws/pins are removed, gently pull them from front to back. The hardest part for me was installing the new one where the back door hinge is.
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| 030282 (104hp) | Quote: Originally posted by ndinh Yes, it's about 8 screws + a few locking pins. There is a clip on the back that you can reuse with the new aprons. There is a hidden locking pin or screw in the middle (I can't remember right now) that you can't see until you remove all the screws. I broke one because I didn't know it was there. Once all screws/pins are removed, gently pull them from front to back. The hardest part for me was installing the new one where the back door hinge is. Thanks!! This is the information I was looking for!
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| benjamin (38hp) | Quote: Originally posted by ndinh Yes, it's about 8 screws + a few locking pins. There is a clip on the back that you can reuse with the new aprons. There is a hidden locking pin or screw in the middle (I can't remember right now) that you can't see until you remove all the screws. I broke one because I didn't know it was there. Once all screws/pins are removed, gently pull them from front to back. The hardest part for me was installing the new one where the back door hinge is. Now I know what to look for
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| garry_rowles (934hp) | Quote: Originally written by ndinh. I just checked and saw that the seller no longer has these on eBay. I think if you choose Taiwan-made M-Tech/M5 side skirts, you'll be fine. Here is the original link for reference: http://www.ebay.com/itm/171236559824...%3AMEBIDX%3AIT These are the exact ones I have and they fit perfectly. Assembles exactly like the factory parts and requires no adjustments.
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| 821018 (187hp) | Quote: Originally posted by ndinh I bought a set on eBay...best price was $100 including shipping. Great deal except painting is $250 for a total of $350. Installed it myself and it wasn't too bad. The fit is perfect, just like the original manufacturer. It was difficult to install them on the rear door hinges, so there are scratches there, but you can't see them unless you look closely when the doors are open. I can post pictures if you really want to. How much time do you think it would have taken in total to remove and replace both sides???
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| hereinto (28hp) | Quote: Originally written by YodaSyrup. How much time do you think it took overall to remove and replace both sides? It took me less than an hour to do both and I didn't even have to lift the car. Make sure to tape the skirts around the rear door and front fender to avoid scratches.
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| hohohoho (609hp) | Quote: Originally posted by Kyddo112. It took me less than an hour to do both and I didn't even have to lift the car. Make sure to tape the skirts around the rear door and front fender to avoid scratches. Didn't you have them painted? more shots? From this angle they look great
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| molly08 (646hp) | Quote: Originally posted by lsturbointeg, didn't you have them painted? more shots? They look great from this angle, but I had to test them before having them painted. They fit so well I didn't even bother testing the other side lol
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| penny5 (327hp) | Quote: Originally posted by Kyddo112. I did make them, but had to test them before I had them painted. They fit so well I didn't even bother testing the other side lol AWESOME! I will end up ordering from the same seller since shipping is free, BOOYAH!
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| 04031991 (785hp) | Hi guys, Along with my N63 service package, my battery was also replaced on January 19, 2015. The car was still under warranty at the time, so I'm not sure if the battery was replaced as part of the N63 customer service packaging or the warranty. In any case, the car is no longer under warranty, but the battery is. The car gives me a message indicating increased battery drain. I called my dealer who told me there would be a $174 diagnostic fee. I was worried about the fee. Has anyone else heard of this? It seems strange to me that they charge a fee to diagnose what Idrive already tells me. On a side note, does anyone know if it's OK to charge these batteries with a charger? Thanks
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| 15041992 (597hp) | I've been getting a "low battery" message on my car for the last few days and I just plugged in my Ctek charger and charged it overnight...all the messages disappeared and my battery looks good. I used the CTek 3300 charger connected to the cables under the hood.
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| 8562835 (791hp) | Thanks, Bscarlett. I have an Autozone charger that I use to charge my other cars, but was a little skeptical about this car with all of its electronics. I'll try it.
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| Fundguy1 (664hp) | Quote: Originally posted by E46-C6-F10 Hi guys, Along with my N63 service package, my battery was replaced on January 19, 2015. The car was still under warranty at the time, so I'm actually not sure if the battery was replaced as part of the N63 customer service package or warranty. In any case, the car is no longer under warranty, but the battery is. The car gives me a message indicating increased battery drain. I called my dealer who told me there would be a $174 diagnostic fee. I was worried about the fee. Has anyone else heard of this? It seems strange to me that they charge a fee to diagnose what Idrive already tells me. On a side note, does anyone know if it's OK to charge these batteries with a charger? Thanks. The battery problems are directly related to the efficient dynamics. If you're not sure what that is, I'll explain it to you. To help BMW reduce fuel consumption, the alternator only charges the battery while you are braking or idling. It's also supposed to charge the battery when it's low on battery, but (obviously) it doesn't and BMW won't fix the problem with an update. The program keeps the alternator constantly charging like every other car on the road. If they updated the program the alternator would put more strain on the engine and reduce fuel consumption by 3% and it would no longer meet its fuel economy rating and we could sue them so they just tell people who it is when the warranty expires If you change the oil, you will need to buy a new battery. Some dealers handle the battery differently. For example, I had to pay for the battery when I had the CCP done. You can charge the battery and your error will disappear. I picked up an $80 battery charger at Walmart that charges lead-acid, AGM, and gel cell batteries. Ours is an AGM battery, it is better than the BMW battery tender because it can charge up to 1000 mAh 10 amps and you can also use it to jump start your car. When I put my car on the charger it is usually at 65% and charging at 10 amps takes 3 hours, with the BMW battery tender it takes all night to charge. Sometimes you don't have all night to charge the car. BMW also says in the owner's manual to drive the car 10 miles every day to keep the battery charged, but that doesn't work and I think it's nonsense to put miles on the car to charge the battery.
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| warsaw (937hp) | Quote: Originally posted by E46-C6-F10 Hi guys, Along with my N63 service package, my battery was replaced on January 19, 2015. The car was still under warranty at the time, so I'm actually not sure if the battery was replaced as part of the N63 customer service package or warranty. In any case, the car is no longer under warranty, but the battery is. The car gives me a message indicating increased battery drain. I called my dealer who told me there would be a $174 diagnostic fee. I was worried about the fee. Has anyone else heard of this? It seems strange to me that they charge a fee to diagnose what Idrive already tells me. On a side note, does anyone know if it's OK to charge these batteries with a charger? Thanks. Even though the car shows increased battery drain, they still don't know what is causing the problem. You need to run diagnostics to get to the bottom of the problem and find out what is causing the increased battery drain. Happened to me too... shit
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| 020891 (842hp) | Quote: Originally posted by Teddylongtooth Quote: Originally posted by E46-C6-F10 Hi guys, Along with my N63 service package, my battery was also replaced on January 19, 2015. The car was still under warranty at the time, so actually I'm not sure if the battery was replaced as part of the N63 service package or the warranty. In any case, the car is no longer under warranty, but the battery is. The car gives me a message indicating increased battery drain. I called my dealer who told me there would be a $174 diagnostic fee. I was worried about the fee. Has anyone else heard of this? It seems strange to me that they charge a fee to diagnose what Idrive already tells me. On a side note, does anyone know if it's OK to charge these batteries with a charger? Thanks. The battery problems are directly related to the efficient dynamics. If you're not sure what that is, I'll explain it to you. To help BMW reduce fuel consumption, the alternator only charges the battery while you are braking or idling. It's also supposed to charge the battery when it's low on battery, but (obviously) it doesn't and BMW won't fix the problem with an update. The program keeps the alternator constantly charging like every other car on the road. If they updated the program the alternator would put more strain on the engine and reduce fuel consumption by 3% and it would no longer meet its fuel economy rating and we could sue them so they just tell people who it is when the warranty expires If you change the oil, you will need to buy a new battery. Some dealers handle the battery differently. For example, I had to pay for the battery when I had the CCP done. You can charge the battery and your error will disappear. I picked up an $80 battery charger at Walmart that charges lead-acid, AGM, and gel cell batteries. Ours is an AGM battery, it is better than the BMW battery tender because it can charge up to 1000 mAh 10 amps and you can also use it to jump start your car. When I put my car on the charger it is usually at 65% and it takes 3 hours to charge at 10 amps. With the BMW battery tender, charging takes all night. Sometimes you don't have all night to charge the car. BMW also says in the owner's manual to drive the car 10 miles every day to keep the battery charged, but that doesn't work and I think it's nonsense to put miles on the car to charge the battery. Teddy, you have a link or model number to the battery charger you purchased?
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| rockstar18 (559hp) | Link to battery charger, http://www.walmart.com/ip/Schumacher...arger/25955535
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| 400098 (718hp) | This is the charger I use. http://www.amazon.com/Schumacher-SC-...ry+charger+AGM
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| maximova.60 (87hp) | Quote: Originally written by Teddylongtooth. The battery problems are directly related to the efficient dynamics. If you're not sure what that is, I'll explain it to you. To help BMW reduce fuel consumption, the alternator only charges the battery while you are braking or idling. It's also supposed to charge the battery when it's low on battery, but (obviously) it doesn't and BMW won't fix the problem with an update. The program keeps the alternator constantly charging like every other car on the road. If they updated the program the alternator would put more strain on the engine and reduce fuel consumption by 3% and it would no longer meet its fuel economy rating and we could sue them so they just tell people who it is when the warranty expires If you change the oil, you will need to buy a new battery. Some dealers handle the battery differently. For example, I had to pay for the battery when I had the CCP done. You can charge the battery and your error will disappear. I picked up an $80 battery charger at Walmart that charges lead-acid, AGM, and gel cell batteries. Ours is an AGM battery, it is better than the BMW battery tender because it can charge up to 1000 mAh 10 amps and you can also use it to jump start your car. When I put my car on the charger it is usually at 65% and it takes 3 hours to charge at 10 amps. With the BMW battery tender, charging takes all night. Sometimes you don't have all night to charge the car. BMW also says in the owner's manual to drive the car 10 miles every day to keep the battery charged, but that doesn't work and I think it's nonsense to put miles on the car to charge the battery. Thanks Teddy. When I had the battery replaced last year, the dealer actually explained to me how the efficient dynamic system works (idiotic if you ask me). I only drive my car a few days a week, but when I do, I now intentionally try to idle a bit more to see the little indicator get into the blue efficient dynamic zone. I'm going to charge my racket tonight. I have the same charger that uses snj1013.
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| 380006 (465hp) | Quote: Originally posted by E46-C6-F10 Thanks Teddy, when I had the battery replaced last year the dealer actually explained to me how the efficient dynamic system works (idiotic if you ask me). I only drive my car a few days a week, but when I do, I now intentionally try to idle a bit more to see the little indicator get into the blue efficient dynamic zone. I'm going to charge my racket tonight. I have the same charger that uses snj1013. No problem. After charging, please send us feedback to let us know your results.
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| vivera (140hp) | Had my '14 550xi for regular service this December (around 1,000 on the clock). To my surprise, the battery was replaced. I never received a discharge note, but the tech said it was just part of a routine exam. I told him that I was very surprised that the battery on a 2 year old car needed to be replaced. He refuted that the car was probably built several months before I purchased it... haha. So, okay... a 2.5 year old car needs a new battery?? My previous BMWs only had their batteries replaced after about 6 years. I owned the last one before the 550xi for 6 years and NEVER replaced the battery. The F10's battery management is definitely messed up... and I'm glad they replaced it at short notice.
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| fran123 (880hp) | Quote: Originally posted by ezmaass Had my 550xi '14 for regular service this December (around 13k on the clock). To my surprise, the battery was replaced. I never received a discharge note, but the tech said it was just part of a routine exam. I told him that I was very surprised that the battery on a 2 year old car needed to be replaced. He refuted that the car was probably built several months before I purchased it... haha. So, okay... a 2.5 year old car needs a new battery?? My previous BMWs only had their batteries replaced after about 6 years. I owned the last one before the 550xi for 6 years and NEVER replaced the battery. The F10's battery management definitely sucks... and I'm glad they replaced it at short notice. Isn't BMW NA simply covering itself with the possibility of customer complaints (and bad publicity) due to poor driving profiles? I'm not sure we'd see the same proactive battery replacement here in the UK. I imagine anyone driving a decent mileage won't have any problems and the battery will last at least 4 years. I've been driving my 535i for over 4 years and only get low mileage. (8,000 per year). There were no warnings based on the driving profile, but you can choose to use a CTEK charger two or three times during the winter to ensure the battery always stays charged. I've done this with other cars, not specifically the F11. It seems ironic that the Eco features are intended to save fuel/CO2 and throwing away a good battery is just a waste of resources. Not very connected.
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| barney12 (937hp) | Quote: Originally posted by HighlandPete Isn't BMW NA simply covering itself with the possibility of customer complaints (and bad publicity) due to poor driving profiles? I'm not sure we'd see the same proactive battery replacement here in the UK. I imagine anyone driving a decent mileage won't have any problems and the battery will last at least 4 years. I've been driving my 535i for over 4 years and only get low mileage. (8,000 per year). There were no warnings based on the driving profile, but you can choose to use a CTEK charger two or three times during the winter to ensure the battery always stays charged. I've done this with other cars, not specifically the F11. It seems ironic that the Eco features are intended to save fuel/CO2 and throwing away a good battery is just a waste of resources. Not very connected. This is generally the case with most eco-friendly devices. It is far more expensive than any eco savings achieved. Unfortunately, you have to pay a premium for anything that is healthy, environmentally friendly or generally good for humanity. Somehow you feel that way
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| mariposa2 (19hp) | I had my battery replaced with my CCP but there was never a low charge indicator or anything else. I've definitely adjusted my driving style to idle more often so that the little blue light comes on when I read all this. Definitely helped a little with fuel mileage and apparently helps keep the battery running. Once again, it's ridiculous that we even have to worry about this on a $70,000-$80,000 (new) car, but oh well.
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| slavia (252hp) | Quote: Originally posted by HighlandPete Isn't BMW NA simply covering itself with the possibility of customer complaints (and bad publicity) due to poor driving profiles? I'm not sure we'd see the same proactive battery replacement here in the UK. I imagine anyone driving a decent mileage won't have any problems and the battery will last at least 4 years. I've been driving my 535i for over 4 years and only get low mileage. (8,000 per year). There were no warnings based on the driving profile, but you can choose to use a CTEK charger two or three times during the winter to ensure the battery always stays charged. I've done this with other cars, not specifically the F11. It seems ironic that the Eco features are intended to save fuel/CO2 and throwing away a good battery is just a waste of resources. Not very connected. Pete – yeah, it definitely seems like they’re trying to hide. I never had any warnings. When I drive the car I tend to drive longer distances (lots of highways) so I'm sure it's well charged. I just found it strange and a bit wasteful. But I'm sure they wouldn't do it if there wasn't a better than average chance of it becoming a problem. But hell, I wish they'd pay attention to the terrible tires on this car - THREE of which I've now replaced in two years and 13,000 miles. I find this completely unacceptable, even more so than a premature battery change.
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| super13 (267hp) | Update: I charged the battery and everything is fine... for now. As mentioned, I have three cars, so I'm used to charging the batteries regularly. I normally drive the F10 every weekend, so I wasn't expecting to have to charge a battery that's less than a year old. Not to mention, I was a little nervous about plugging my $40 charger into my $70,000 high-tech vehicle. Well...the good news is that the dealer doesn't collect my $174 diagnostic fee. Thanks guys.
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| 190990 (33hp) | I had my 550ix serviced last week just before the warranty expired in a month. I asked the service manager about the battery as it has been replaced twice (once about two years ago during a very cold winter and once last year during CCP repairs). He told me that I would have to pay for the replacement after the warranty expired (about $500 total) but that BMW would be behind it for two years. So I figure I can look forward to around $500 every two years if I keep the car. I purchased an AGM battery charger two years ago when I first had battery issues and the battery couldn't hold its charge. The service manager also discovered that once the batteries were depleted to a certain point, charging them was no longer successful. Hence the replacement approach.
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| blondie (61hp) | Quote: Originally posted by 5fix I had my 550ix serviced last week just before the warranty expired in a month. I asked the service manager about the battery as it has been replaced twice (once about two years ago during a very cold winter and once last year during CCP repairs). He told me that I would have to pay for the replacement after the warranty expired (about $500 total) but that BMW would be behind it for two years. So I figure I can look forward to around $500 every two years if I keep the car. I purchased an AGM battery charger two years ago when I first had battery issues and the battery couldn't hold its charge. The service manager also discovered that once the batteries were depleted to a certain point, charging them was no longer successful. Hence the replacement approach. I would keep an eye on the health of the battery and not drain it to the point where it might fail. I would bet the battery will last a lot longer than replacing it every year or two. 4 - 6 years, more likely when using a smart charger. I do this with my 535i battery which is now over 4 years old and counting... HighlandPete
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| 02041984 (311hp) | Quote: Originally posted by 5fix I had my 550ix serviced last week just before the warranty expired in a month. I asked the service manager about the battery as it has been replaced twice (once about two years ago during a very cold winter and once last year during CCP repairs). He told me that I would have to pay for the replacement after the warranty expired (about $500 total) but that BMW would be behind it for two years. So I figure I can look forward to around $500 every two years if I keep the car. I purchased an AGM battery charger two years ago when I first had battery issues and the battery couldn't hold its charge. The service manager also discovered that once the batteries were depleted to a certain point, charging them was no longer successful. Hence the replacement approach. I found a few replacement batteries online for $200-$250 and there are replacement instructions on the forum. Looks pretty easy. After that it just needs to be coded by a friend/forum member or an import workshop. Maybe you'll save a few hundred.
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| 1smile (674hp) | I read on a battery topic that the infamous statement was that the life of a battery can be extended for a very long time if you connect it to a charger/maintenance device once a month. I've been doing this for a few years now and the one car that seemed to eat batteries during my lunch break has now lasted more than three years on the same battery. I have a battery tender that I swap between our cars. I bought the pigtails to attach to the battery (or in my case the connector under the hood) and a 20 foot extension (I think). I just look at it as another maintenance item...
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| masterpiece (923hp) | Using Autostop with the lights on will definitely drain the battery. I press the little button every time we start Tasmanian just to keep the battery from dying on a 4 year old car. Tasmanian
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| 19031983 (361hp) | Hi guys, Along with my N63 service package, my battery was also replaced on January 19, 2015. The car was still under warranty at the time, so I'm not sure if the battery was replaced as part of the N63 customer service packaging or the warranty. In any case, the car is no longer under warranty, but the battery is. The car gives me a message indicating increased battery discharge. I called my dealer who told me there would be a $174 diagnostic fee. I was worried about the fee. Has anyone else heard of this? It seems strange to me that they charge a fee to diagnose what Idrive already tells me. On a side note, does anyone know if it's okay to charge these batteries with a charger? Thanks
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| derby (237hp) | I've been getting a "low battery" message on my car for the last few days and I just plugged in my Ctek charger and charged it overnight...all the messages disappeared and my battery looks good. I used the CTek 3300 charger connected to the cables under the hood.
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| sammy101 (518hp) | Thanks, Bscarlett. I have an Autozone charger that I use to charge my other cars, but was a little skeptical about this car with all of its electronics. I'll try it.
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| cashman (901hp) | Quote: Originally posted by E46-C6-F10 Hi guys, Along with my N63 service package, my battery was replaced on January 19, 2015. The car was still under warranty at the time, so I'm actually not sure if the battery was replaced as part of the N63 customer service package or warranty. In any case, the car is no longer under warranty, but the battery is. The car gives me a message indicating increased battery drain. I called my dealer who told me there would be a $174 diagnostic fee. I was worried about the fee. Has anyone else heard of this? It seems strange to me that they charge a fee to diagnose what Idrive already tells me. On a side note, does anyone know if it's OK to charge these batteries with a charger? Thanks. The battery problems are directly related to the efficient dynamics. If you're not sure what that is, I'll explain it to you. To help BMW reduce fuel consumption, the alternator only charges the battery while you are braking or idling. It's also supposed to charge the battery when it's low on battery, but (obviously) it doesn't and BMW won't fix the problem with an update. The program keeps the alternator constantly charging like every other car on the road. If they updated the program the alternator would put more strain on the engine and reduce fuel consumption by 3% and it would no longer meet its fuel economy rating and we could sue them so they just tell people who it is when the warranty expires If you change the oil, you will need to buy a new battery. Some dealers handle the battery differently. For example, I had to pay for the battery when I had the CCP done. You can charge the battery and your error will disappear. I picked up an $80 battery charger at Walmart that charges lead-acid, AGM, and gel cell batteries. Ours is an AGM battery, it is better than the BMW battery tender because it can charge up to 1000 mAh 10 amps and you can also use it to jump start your car. When I put my car on the charger it is usually at 65% and charging at 10 amps takes 3 hours, with the BMW battery tender it takes all night to charge. Sometimes you don't have all night to charge the car. BMW also says in the owner's manual to drive the car 10 miles every day to keep the battery charged, but that doesn't work and I think it's nonsense to put miles on the car to charge the battery.
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| kenshiro (86hp) | Quote: Originally posted by E46-C6-F10 Hi guys, Along with my N63 service package, my battery was replaced on January 19, 2015. The car was still under warranty at the time, so I'm actually not sure if the battery was replaced as part of the N63 customer service package or warranty. In any case, the car is no longer under warranty, but the battery is. The car gives me a message indicating increased battery drain. I called my dealer who told me there would be a $174 diagnostic fee. I was worried about the fee. Has anyone else heard of this? It seems strange to me that they charge a fee to diagnose what Idrive already tells me. On a side note, does anyone know if it's OK to charge these batteries with a charger? Thanks. Even though the car shows increased battery drain, they still don't know what is causing the problem. You need to run diagnostics to get to the bottom of the problem and find out what is causing the increased battery drain. Happened to me too... shit
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| EZduzit123 (165hp) | Quote: Originally posted by Teddylongtooth Quote: Originally posted by E46-C6-F10 Hi guys, Along with my N63 service package, my battery was also replaced on January 19, 2015. The car was still under warranty at the time, so actually I'm not sure if the battery was replaced as part of the N63 service package or the warranty. In any case, the car is no longer under warranty, but the battery is. The car gives me a message indicating increased battery drain. I called my dealer who told me there would be a $174 diagnostic fee. I was worried about the fee. Has anyone else heard of this? It seems strange to me that they charge a fee to diagnose what Idrive already tells me. On a side note, does anyone know if it's OK to charge these batteries with a charger? Thanks. The battery problems are directly related to the efficient dynamics. If you're not sure what that is, I'll explain it to you. To help BMW reduce fuel consumption, the alternator only charges the battery while you are braking or idling. It's also supposed to charge the battery when it's low on battery, but (obviously) it doesn't and BMW won't fix the problem with an update. The program keeps the alternator constantly charging like every other car on the road. If they updated the program the alternator would put more strain on the engine and reduce fuel consumption by 3% and it would no longer meet its fuel economy rating and we could sue them so they just tell people who it is when the warranty expires If you change the oil, you will need to buy a new battery. Some dealers handle the battery differently. For example, I had to pay for the battery when I had the CCP done. You can charge the battery and your error will disappear. I picked up an $80 battery charger at Walmart that charges lead-acid, AGM, and gel cell batteries. Ours is an AGM battery, it is better than the BMW battery tender because it can charge up to 1000 mAh 10 amps and you can also use it to jump start your car. When I put my car on the charger it is usually at 65% and it takes 3 hours to charge at 10 amps. With the BMW battery tender, charging takes all night. Sometimes you don't have all night to charge the car. BMW also says in the owner's manual to drive the car 10 miles every day to keep the battery charged, but that doesn't work and I think it's nonsense to put miles on the car to charge the battery. Teddy, you have a link or model number to the battery charger you purchased?
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| 190392 (192hp) | Link to battery charger, http://www.walmart.com/ip/Schumacher...arger/25955535
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| ksquare (31hp) | This is the charger I use. http://www.amazon.com/Schumacher-SC-...ry+charger+AGM
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| zxcv12345 (492hp) | Quote: Originally written by Teddylongtooth. The battery problems are directly related to the efficient dynamics. If you're not sure what that is, I'll explain it to you. To help BMW reduce fuel consumption, the alternator only charges the battery while you are braking or idling. It's also supposed to charge the battery when it's low on battery, but (obviously) it doesn't and BMW won't fix the problem with an update. The program keeps the alternator constantly charging like every other car on the road. If they updated the program the alternator would put more strain on the engine and reduce fuel consumption by 3% and it would no longer meet its fuel economy rating and we could sue them so they just tell people who it is when the warranty expires If you change the oil, you will need to buy a new battery. Some dealers handle the battery differently. For example, I had to pay for the battery when I had the CCP done. You can charge the battery and your error will disappear. I picked up an $80 battery charger at Walmart that charges lead-acid, AGM, and gel cell batteries. Ours is an AGM battery, it is better than the BMW battery tender because it can charge up to 1000 mAh 10 amps and you can also use it to jump start your car. When I put my car on the charger it is usually at 65% and it takes 3 hours to charge at 10 amps. With the BMW battery tender, charging takes all night. Sometimes you don't have all night to charge the car. BMW also says in the owner's manual to drive the car 10 miles every day to keep the battery charged, but that doesn't work and I think it's nonsense to put miles on the car to charge the battery. Thanks Teddy. When I had the battery replaced last year, the dealer actually explained to me how the efficient dynamic system works (idiotic if you ask me). I only drive my car a few days a week, but when I do, I now intentionally try to idle a bit more to see the little indicator get into the blue efficient dynamic zone. I'm going to charge my racket tonight. I have the same charger that uses snj1013.
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| quip (466hp) | Quote: Originally posted by E46-C6-F10 Thanks Teddy, when I had the battery replaced last year the dealer actually explained to me how the efficient dynamic system works (idiotic if you ask me). I only drive my car a few days a week, but when I do, I now intentionally try to idle a little more to see how the little gauge gets into the blue zone of efficient dynamics. I'm going to charge my racket tonight. I have the same charger that uses snj1013. No problem. After charging, please send us feedback to let us know your results.
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| 240588 (287hp) | Had my '14 550xi for regular service this December (around 1,000 on the clock). To my surprise, the battery was replaced. I never received a discharge note, but the tech said it was just part of a routine exam. I told him that I was very surprised that the battery on a 2 year old car needed to be replaced. He refuted that the car was probably built several months before I purchased it... haha. So, okay... a 2.5 year old car needs a new battery?? My previous BMWs only had their batteries replaced after about 6 years. I owned the last one before the 550xi for 6 years and NEVER replaced the battery. The F10's battery management is definitely messed up... and I'm glad they replaced it at short notice.
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| aretha (467hp) | Quote: Originally posted by ezmaass Had my 550xi '14 for regular service this December (around 13k on the clock). To my surprise, the battery was replaced. I never received a discharge note, but the tech said it was just part of a routine exam. I told him that I was very surprised that the battery on a 2 year old car needed to be replaced. He refuted that the car was probably built several months before I purchased it... haha. So, okay... a 2.5 year old car needs a new battery?? My previous BMWs only had their batteries replaced after about 6 years. I owned the last one before the 550xi for 6 years and NEVER replaced the battery. The F10's battery management definitely sucks... and I'm glad they replaced it at short notice. Isn't BMW NA simply covering itself with the possibility of customer complaints (and bad publicity) due to poor driving profiles? I'm not sure we'd see the same proactive battery replacement here in the UK. I imagine anyone driving a decent mileage won't have any problems and the battery will last at least 4 years. I've been driving my 535i for over 4 years and only get low mileage. (8,000 per year). There were no warnings based on the driving profile, but you can choose to use a CTEK charger two or three times during the winter to ensure the battery always stays charged. I've done this with other cars, not specifically the F11. It seems ironic that the Eco features are intended to save fuel/CO2 and throwing away a good battery is just a waste of resources. Not very connected.
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| 120894 (500hp) | Quote: Originally posted by HighlandPete Isn't BMW NA simply covering itself with the possibility of customer complaints (and bad publicity) due to poor driving profiles? I'm not sure we'd see the same proactive battery replacement here in the UK. I imagine anyone driving a decent mileage won't have any problems and the battery will last at least 4 years. I've been driving my 535i for over 4 years and only get low mileage. (8,000 per year). There were no warnings based on the driving profile, but you can choose to use a CTEK charger two or three times during the winter to ensure the battery always stays charged. I've done this with other cars, not specifically the F11. It seems ironic that the Eco features are intended to save fuel/CO2 and throwing away a good battery is just a waste of resources. Not very connected. This is generally the case with most eco-friendly devices. It is far more expensive than any eco savings achieved. Unfortunately, you have to pay a premium for anything that is healthy, environmentally friendly or generally good for humanity. Somehow you feel that way
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| cno (349hp) | I'll bring my car back later to get the windows tinted. In California, it is a legal requirement that the windshield can be tinted up to the AS1 line or 4 from the top. 4 isn't very far and since my car's windshield isn't marked with an AS1 line, I was hoping someone could measure their windshield from the outside top edge of the glass and give me an accurate measurement up to the AS1 mark? This should keep my front tint within the acceptable range if I get pulled over (and I know I will be pulled over at some point) if I have to go to court.
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| 051986 (459hp) | I had my battery replaced with my CCP but there was never a low charge indicator or anything else. I've definitely adjusted my driving style to idle more often so that the little blue light comes on when I read all this. Definitely helped a little with fuel mileage and apparently helps keep the battery running. Once again, it's ridiculous that we even have to worry about this on a $70,000-$80,000 (new) car, but oh well.
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| 020896 (286hp) | Nobody?
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| bitch25 (657hp) | Quote: Originally posted by HighlandPete Isn't BMW NA simply covering itself with the possibility of customer complaints (and bad publicity) due to poor driving profiles? I'm not sure we'd see the same proactive battery replacement here in the UK. I imagine anyone driving a decent mileage won't have any problems and the battery will last at least 4 years. I've been driving my 535i for over 4 years and only get low mileage. (8,000 per year). There were no warnings based on the driving profile, but you can choose to use a CTEK charger two or three times during the winter to ensure the battery always stays charged. I've done this with other cars, not specifically the F11. It seems ironic that the Eco features are intended to save fuel/CO2 and throwing away a good battery is just a waste of resources. Not very connected. Pete – yeah, it definitely seems like they’re trying to hide. I never had any warnings. When I drive the car I tend to drive longer distances (lots of highways) so I'm sure it's well charged. I just found it strange and a bit wasteful. But I'm sure they wouldn't do it if there wasn't a better than average chance of it becoming a problem. But hell, I wish they'd pay attention to the terrible tires on this car - THREE of which I've now replaced in two years and 13,000 miles. I find this completely unacceptable, even more so than a premature battery change.
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| park (837hp) |
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| playboy6 (938hp) | Update: I charged the battery and everything is fine... for now. As mentioned, I have three cars, so I'm used to charging the batteries regularly. I normally drive the F10 every weekend, so I wasn't expecting to have to charge a battery that's less than a year old. Not to mention, I was a little nervous about plugging my $40 charger into my $70,000 high-tech vehicle. Well...the good news is that the dealer doesn't collect my $174 diagnostic fee. Thanks guys.
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| 215487 (825hp) | I'll bring my car back later to get the windows tinted. In California, it is a legal requirement that the windshield can be tinted up to the AS1 line or 4 from the top. 4 isn't very far and since my car's windshield isn't marked with an AS1 line, I was hoping someone could measure their windshield from the outside top edge of the glass and give me an accurate measurement up to the AS1 mark? This should keep my front tint within the acceptable range if I get pulled over (and I know I will be pulled over at some point) if I have to go to court.
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| 100583 (421hp) | I had my 550ix serviced last week just before the warranty expired in a month. I asked the service manager about the battery as it has been replaced twice (once about two years ago during a very cold winter and once last year during CCP repairs). He told me that I would have to pay for the replacement after the warranty expired (about $500 total) but that BMW would be behind it for two years. So I figure I can look forward to around $500 every two years if I keep the car. I purchased an AGM battery charger two years ago when I first had battery issues and the battery couldn't hold its charge. The service manager also discovered that once the batteries were depleted to a certain point, charging them was no longer successful. Hence the replacement approach.
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| silverfox1 (981hp) | Nobody?
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| ace_pilot (506hp) | Quote: Originally posted by 5fix I had my 550ix serviced last week just before the warranty expired in a month. I asked the service manager about the battery as it has been replaced twice (once about two years ago during a very cold winter and once last year during CCP repairs). He told me that I would have to pay for the replacement after the warranty expired (about $500 total) but that BMW would be behind it for two years. So I figure I can look forward to around $500 every two years if I keep the car. I purchased an AGM battery charger two years ago when I first had battery issues and the battery couldn't hold its charge. The service manager also discovered that once the batteries were depleted to a certain point, charging them was no longer successful. Hence the replacement approach. I would keep an eye on the health of the battery and not drain it to the point where it might fail. I would bet the battery will last a lot longer than replacing it every year or two. 4 - 6 years, more likely when using a smart charger. I do this with my 535i battery which is now over 4 years old and counting... HighlandPete
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| dancer16 (336hp) |
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| sweets12 (688hp) | Quote: Originally posted by 5fix I had my 550ix serviced last week just before the warranty expired in a month. I asked the service manager about the battery as it has been replaced twice (once about two years ago during a very cold winter and once last year during CCP repairs). He told me that I would have to pay for the replacement after the warranty expired (about $500 total) but that BMW would be behind it for two years. So I figure I can look forward to around $500 every two years if I keep the car. I purchased an AGM battery charger two years ago when I first had battery issues and the battery couldn't hold its charge. The service manager also discovered that once the batteries were depleted to a certain point, charging them was no longer successful. Hence the replacement approach. I found a few replacement batteries online for $200-$250 and there are replacement instructions on the forum. Looks pretty easy. After that it just needs to be coded by a friend/forum member or an import workshop. Maybe you'll save a few hundred.
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| 141995 (670hp) | I read on a battery topic that the infamous statement was that the life of a battery can be extended for a very long time if you connect it to a charger/maintenance device once a month. I've been doing this for a few years now and the one car that seemed to eat batteries during my lunch break has now lasted more than three years on the same battery. I have a battery tender that I swap between our cars. I bought the pigtails to attach to the battery (or in my case the connector under the hood) and a 20 foot extension (I think). I just look at it as another maintenance item...
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| hedgehog1 (352hp) | Using Autostop with the lights on will definitely drain the battery. I press the little button every time we start Tasmanian just to keep the battery from dying on a 4 year old car. Tasmanian
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| istanbul1 (35hp) | Quote: Originally written by Mineral5. The carbon cladding turned out really well. I really regret that I didn't get the ceramic control when I ordered the car, so you didn't do the air conditioning control? Does the whole thing need to be replaced if necessary? I did the air conditioning and idrive. And yes, the whole thing needs to be replaced. For the gear knob I use the M Performance.
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| Rossdo (982hp) | Quote: Originally posted by snowmuch I did the air conditioning and Idrive. And yes, the whole thing needs to be replaced. For the gear knob I use the M Performance. If it was just plug and play, did you get these parts on eBay or did you order them for your car through the dealer??
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| 041094 (814hp) | Quote: Originally posted by Mineral5 Was it just plug and play, did you get these parts on eBay or did you order them for your car through the dealer? Everything is plug and play. The air conditioning actually comes from a 7 Series with a WiFi hotspot and seat ventilation.
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| bubblebutt (775hp) | Quote: Originally written by snowmuch Everything is plug and play. The air conditioning actually comes from a 7 Series with a WiFi hotspot and seat ventilation. Thanks for the info
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| hollyy (920hp) | I simply opted for full M Performance for my interior.
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| 987654321w (456hp) | Quote: Originally written by Hasser I just decided on the complete M Performance for my interior. I really like the M Performance steering wheel
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| docjay (611hp) | Here are my humble mods... sports steering wheel with paddles, M-Sport pedals (dead pedal in the future) and SAT shifter.
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| inglewood (786hp) | Quote: Originally posted by Mineral5 Quote: Originally posted by Hasser I just decided on the full M Performance for my interior. I really like the M Performance steering wheel. It is the M5 version. I think it's a lot better than that for the regular 5 Series. Fit straight away, so no fit problems. And I put the CF emblem on it. There was also no complete LED interior lighting.
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| wentworth1 (40hp) | Quote: Originally posted by ezaircon4jc Here are my humble mods... Attachment 1356899 Sports steering wheel with paddles, M-Sport pedals (dead pedal in the future) and SAT shifter. Very nice!! and the SAT shifter looks 1000x better than the normal one, good choice
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| 021183 (357hp) | Damned! I knew I would see things here that I need to do now! Pedals...must do the pedals now! Thanks guys! LOL
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| Brian@EWS (159hp) | Quote: Originally posted by lsturbointeg Damn! I knew I would see things here that I need to do now! Pedals...must do the pedals now! Thanks guys! LOL Me too... pedals I need
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| europe (352hp) | Some black pedals for cars, including the dead pedal
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| Dejo22 (561hp) | Quote: Originally posted by lsturbointeg Damn! I knew I would see things here that I need to do now! Pedals...must do the pedals now! Thanks guys! LOL Quote: Originally posted by Mineral5 Me too...pedals I need. I bought them on eBay from a dealer in Europe, Lithuania I think. They were from the factory and came in the factory packaging. Installation wasn't too bad, but did require drilling the metal base of the brake pedal.
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| avelvin (148hp) | I just want the pedals to feel solid. Do you understand what I mean? Doesn't rattle when stepped on or come loose after a while. I'm assuming I'm choosing a high quality pedal set
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| dede12 (462hp) |
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| isa123 (298hp) | Quote: Originally posted by lsturbointeg I just want the pedals to feel solid. Do you understand what I mean? Doesn't rattle when stepped on or come loose after a while. I assume that I will choose a high quality pedal set. They have been in use for about three months now. They are as solid as the factory pedals. The brake pedal replaces the factory rubber and the loud pedal is screwed into the factory pedal and covered with 3M double sided tape. My only problem is that I have a pair of shoes that like to stick to the brake pedal. There is no slippage at all. I highly recommend it!!
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| 12081984 (310hp) | Quote: Originally posted by ezaircon4jc They have been active for about 3 months now. They are as solid as the factory pedals. The brake pedal replaces the factory rubber and the loud pedal is screwed into the factory pedal and covered with 3M double sided tape. My only problem is that I have a pair of shoes that like to stick to the brake pedal. There is no slippage at all. I highly recommend it!! Completed!! I just ordered a set
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| timmy7 (754hp) | Quote: Originally posted by Mineral5 Done!! I just ordered a set. Terrific!! Be careful when drilling the brake pedal. I was in a hurry and the hole was a little crooked so I had to drill it a little bigger. It's OK because the new pedal is bolted to the metal backplate of the brake pedal.
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| karsten (724hp) | I have the M Performance pedals and the foot is not as stable as the original. It just sticks and when you press on it hard it feels a bit thin. They look good and I like them, and they definitely look better than the original, but I think there should be a better alternative. As I looked around, I just couldn't find anything that I particularly liked.
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| cheerleading (366hp) | Quote: Originally posted by lsturbointeg I just want the pedals to feel solid. Do you understand what I mean? Doesn't rattle when stepped on or come loose after a while. I suspect I'll go for a high quality pedal set. Don't go cheap on the pedals. I bought mine from Pedal Haus and they are great. I can't believe how well they grip.
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| coolguy123 (23hp) | My main concern is the solid fit of the pedals because I knew back when I had my Integra that they would just get stuck and after a while they would just come loose or get crooked.
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| 1marine (744hp) | Quote: Originally written by lsturbointeg, my main concern is the solid fit of the pedals, because I knew back then with my Integra that they were just stuck and after a while they would just come loose or become crooked. No problem with my pedals. It helps that they are screwed on...
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| sheikh (644hp) | Quote: Originally written by Mineral5. The carbon cladding turned out really well. I really regret that I didn't get the ceramic control when I ordered the car, so you didn't do the air conditioning control? Does the whole thing need to be replaced if necessary? I did the air conditioning and idrive. And yes, the whole thing needs to be replaced. For the gear knob I use the M Performance.
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| LuxeFilms (866hp) | Quote: Originally posted by snowmuch I did the air conditioning and Idrive. And yes, the whole thing needs to be replaced. For the gear knob I use the M Performance. If it was just plug and play, did you get these parts on eBay or did you order them for your car through the dealer??
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| flameboy1 (642hp) | Quote: Originally posted by Mineral5 Was it just plug and play, did you get these parts on eBay or did you order them for your car through the dealer? Everything is plug and play. The air conditioning actually comes from a 7 Series with a WiFi hotspot and seat ventilation.
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| satanas666 (954hp) | Quote: Originally written by snowmuch Everything is plug and play. The air conditioning actually comes from a 7 Series with a WiFi hotspot and seat ventilation. Thanks for the info
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| fuckyou18 (537hp) | I simply opted for full M Performance for my interior.
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| bakugan1 (784hp) | Quote: Originally written by Hasser I just decided on the complete M Performance for my interior. I really like the M Performance steering wheel
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| ROBERTO (59hp) | Here are my humble mods... sports steering wheel with paddles, M-Sport pedals (dead pedal in the future) and SAT shifter.
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| hunter6 (319hp) | Quote: Originally posted by Mineral5 Quote: Originally posted by Hasser I just decided on the full M Performance for my interior. I really like the M Performance steering wheel. It is the M5 version. I think it's a lot better than that for the regular 5 Series. Fit straight away, so no fit problems. And I put the CF emblem on it. There was also no complete LED interior lighting.
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| nouveau (702hp) | Quote: Originally posted by ezaircon4jc Here are my humble mods... Attachment 1356899 Sports steering wheel with paddles, M-Sport pedals (dead pedal in the future) and SAT shifter. Very nice!! and the SAT shifter looks 1000x better than the normal one, good choice
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| McReary (885hp) | Damned! I knew I would see things here that I need to do now! Pedals...must do the pedals now! Thanks guys! LOL
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| fob123 (767hp) | Quote: Originally posted by lsturbointeg Damn! I knew I would see things here that I need to do now! Pedals...must do the pedals now! Thanks guys! LOL Me too... pedals I need
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| doostie (369hp) | Some black pedals for cars, including the dead pedal
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| gwapo1 (223hp) | Quote: Originally posted by lsturbointeg Damn! I knew I would see things here that I need to do now! Pedals...must do the pedals now! Thanks guys! LOL Quote: Originally posted by Mineral5 Me too...pedals I need. I bought them on eBay from a dealer in Europe, Lithuania I think. They were from the factory and came in the factory packaging. Installation wasn't too bad, but did require drilling the metal base of the brake pedal.
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| andrew02 (947hp) | I just want the pedals to feel solid. Do you understand what I mean? Doesn't rattle when stepped on or come loose after a while. I'm assuming I'm choosing a high quality pedal set
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| oxford1 (314hp) |
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| Nick528i (907hp) | Quote: Originally posted by lsturbointeg I just want the pedals to feel solid. Do you understand what I mean? Doesn't rattle when stepped on or come loose after a while. I assume that I will choose a high quality pedal set. They have been in use for about three months now. They are as solid as the factory pedals. The brake pedal replaces the factory rubber and the loud pedal is screwed into the factory pedal and covered with 3M double sided tape. My only problem is that I have a pair of shoes that like to stick to the brake pedal. There is no slippage at all. I highly recommend it!!
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| food12 (552hp) | Quote: Originally posted by ezaircon4jc They have been active for about 3 months now. They are as solid as the factory pedals. The brake pedal replaces the factory rubber and the loud pedal is screwed into the factory pedal and covered with 3M double sided tape. My only problem is that I have a pair of shoes that like to stick to the brake pedal. There is no slippage at all. I highly recommend it!! Completed!! I just ordered a set
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| mychemicalromance (193hp) | Quote: Originally posted by Mineral5 Done!! I just ordered a set. Terrific!! Be careful when drilling the brake pedal. I was in a hurry and the hole was a little crooked so I had to drill it a little bigger. It's OK because the new pedal is bolted to the metal backplate of the brake pedal.
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| aimee123 (118hp) | I have the M Performance pedals and the foot is not as stable as the original. It just sticks and when you press on it hard it feels a bit thin. They look good and I like them, and they definitely look better than the original, but I think there should be a better alternative. As I looked around, I just couldn't find anything that I particularly liked.
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| clymer (622hp) | Quote: Originally posted by lsturbointeg I just want the pedals to feel solid. Do you understand what I mean? Doesn't rattle when stepped on or come loose after a while. I suspect I'll go for a high quality pedal set. Don't go cheap on the pedals. I bought mine from Pedal Haus and they are great. I can't believe how well they grip.
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| kitten4 (581hp) | My main concern is the solid fit of the pedals because I knew back when I had my Integra that they would just get stuck and after a while they would just come loose or get crooked.
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| charles13 (741hp) | Quote: Originally written by lsturbointeg, my main concern is the solid fit of the pedals, because I knew back then with my Integra that they were just stuck and after a while they would just come loose or become crooked. No problem with my pedals. It helps that they are screwed on...
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| ghfdlf (258hp) | 5UXKU2C53G0N78781 [email protected] Thank you, sir!!
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| du.txt (177hp) | PM sent. Thanks!
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| 2hot4tv (648hp) | Guys, I no longer have access to Carfax
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| hamradio (302hp) | 5UXKU2C53G0N78781 [email protected] Thank you, sir!!
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| ball22 (929hp) | PM sent. Thanks!
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| chinenye (472hp) | Guys, I no longer have access to Carfax
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| matrix007 (690hp) | Hello, I have a 6-speed F10 and I recently noticed that this noise is coming from the gearbox ?
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| panthers7 (990hp) | Hello, I have a 6 speed F10 and recently I noticed that this noise is coming from the gearbox that someone has seen before ?
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