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| nrfxtyrj (410hp) | Quote: Originally written by AussieBob We have one of the WeatherTech products on the back of our I did that. I know marketing is a wonderful thing, but read what the founder and CEO says on his website. It makes me feel good, and I'm not even American. Attachment 2815640 I knew that all Weathertech products were made in America, but this statement sealed the deal for me.
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| 112112112 (235hp) | I personally prefer the OEM rubber mats over Weathertech. I just think they fit a 5 Series much better and the materials are higher quality. The Weathertech floor coverings (I can't say anything for the all-weather mats) end up looking unkempt and turning white over time, at least that's what I experience when driving in family and friends' cars. I simply switch between the BMW carpet mats and the all-weather rubber mats in spring/summer or fall/winter. Both sets still look like new even after 5 years.
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| grandam1 (335hp) | [QUOTE=don't play,28601676]I personally prefer the OEM rubber mats over Weathertech. I just think they fit a 5 Series much better and the materials are higher quality. The Weathertech floor coverings (I can't say anything for the all-weather mats) end up looking unkempt and turning white over time, at least that's what I experience when driving in family and friends' cars. +1.
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| 19861216 (685hp) | The weather engineer also sponsors a lot of motorsports events. I heard he's a real car enthusiast.
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| lollipop8 (111hp) | +1 for OEM rubber mats. They look great, work great and are easy to clean between the grooves. I'm happy with my decision to spend a few euros more and opt for the BMW brand's interior. I chose an imitation for my trunk. Not perfect
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| maddog (420hp) | I'm not the biggest fan of weatherproof flooring. When I bought my F10 I bought 3D Maxpider floor mats for about $160. They glide like a glove, have a nice, even finish and grip the carpet like no other. They are also a great deal on Amazon and fit really well.
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| stolen (44hp) | Hello everyone, this is an ongoing problem that I've been dealing with for just three years. When I start the car for the first time every day, it starts without any problems. When I go to the gym and then come back out, the car always starts rough unless it has completely cooled down. It sounds like it's starving for fuel, but it always starts. I replaced the crank, cam and coolant sensors, connectors and coil packs. I had the car at BMW and they checked the fuel pressure and said the pumps were fine. No other ideas. (shocking) The only thing I wonder about is the fuel sensors or pumps or injectors. The car runs great after starting and there are no problems. Just the beginning when it's warm.
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| E30M3Driver (279hp) | I'll just keep driving, fuck it
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| LOLITA (173hp) | Hello everyone, this is an ongoing problem that I've been dealing with for just three years. When I start the car for the first time every day, it starts without any problems. When I go to the gym and then come back out, the car always starts rough unless it has completely cooled down. It sounds like it's starving for fuel, but it always starts. I replaced the crank, cam and coolant sensors, connectors and coil packs. I had the car at BMW and they checked the fuel pressure and said the pumps were fine. No other ideas. (shocking) The only thing I wonder about is the fuel sensors or pumps or injectors. The car runs great after starting and there are no problems. Just the beginning when it's warm.
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| marijuana420 (818hp) | I'll just keep driving, fuck it
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| curtis (289hp) | Hello, I was considering purchasing between the 2017 G30 540i Msport package and the 2016 F10 550i with full option and third party warranty. Which one would you recommend? Both cars have 52-54,000 miles on them. Any advice would be appreciated!
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| 03081991 (788hp) | How high is your risk capacity? The straight-six in the 540 is a much smoother engine.
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| 271286 (539hp) | I love my F10 550i, but you should also keep in mind that the G30 will have newer technology, including 4G for remote services. The F10 series used 3G, which has since been decommissioned so you can no longer receive traffic data and other data related services such as remote locking etc. Also agree that a newer G30 with inline 6 should prove much more reliable, if a little less exciting to drive (although still a very strong engine to be honest).).
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| Robert82 (142hp) | It all depends on what your goal is. If you are handy, can work on your car yourself and carry out retrofits and love the power of a V8 (tunable to over 600 hp), then choose the F10. It's also really nice to have all the options. Ventilated seats, active cruise and all are very functional and practical features. Today, however, I would look for a newer, well-equipped 540i or m550i. So it's not an easy decision, but I hope you are happy with the result
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| yellowrose (315hp) | Assume that there is less risk associated with the 540i's inline-six, but also assume that more benefits could be achieved with the 550i's twin-turbo V8. Just my $0.02, but I think both are quite capable of inducing a grin from ear to ear. GL and post pictures if you bring something home.
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| 17ciao72 (67hp) | Are you an owner/driver who gets from A to B or one who values every second behind the wheel? The 540i will likely be the more reliable of the two, but that doesn't mean the 550i won't be reliable. On the other hand, the 550i will give you joy in every kilometer you put behind the wheel, both in terms of performance and driving experience. Choose the 540i if you think of cars as getting you from point A to B (but in style), you want a more reliable engine, you're looking for the latest electronics and gadgets, a Want better mileage, want a slightly cheaper car to repair and easier maintenance Go for the 550i if you're an adrenaline junkie and love the 0-60 sprint in under 4 seconds. You appreciate the driving experience and handling (the F10 550i is the last car ever made by BMW with hydraulic power steering). I don't like the look of all modern BMWs (lol, this is very subjective here).)
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| sexy00 (716hp) | Quote: Originally posted by spielnicht Are you an A-to-B type owner/driver or someone who values every second behind the wheel? The 540i will likely be the more reliable of the two, but that doesn't mean the 550i won't be reliable. On the other hand, the 550i will give you joy in every kilometer you put behind the wheel, both in terms of performance and driving experience. Choose the 540i if you think of cars as getting you from point A to B (but in style), you want a more reliable engine, you're looking for the latest electronics and gadgets, a Want better mileage, want a slightly cheaper car to repair and easier maintenance Go for the 550i if you're an adrenaline junkie and love the rush of going from 0 to 60 in under 4 seconds. You appreciate the driving experience and handling (the F10 550i is). the last car ever made by BMW with hydraulic power steering) I don't like the look of all modern BMWs (lol, very subjective here) IIRC, there is at most a half second difference in 0-60 times. Only the X-Drives have hydraulic racks.
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| diploma (100hp) | Hello, I was considering purchasing between the 2017 G30 540i Msport package and the 2016 F10 550i with full option and third party warranty. Which one would you recommend? Both cars have 52-54,000 miles on them. Any advice would be appreciated!
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| nonloso (157hp) | How high is your risk capacity? The straight-six in the 540 is a much smoother engine.
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| 05111993 (54hp) | I love my F10 550i, but you should also keep in mind that the G30 will have newer technology, including 4G for remote services. The F10 series used 3G, which has since been decommissioned so you can no longer receive traffic data and other data related services such as remote locking etc. Also agree that a newer G30 with inline 6 should prove much more reliable, if a little less exciting to drive (although still a very strong engine to be honest).).
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| cable1 (993hp) | It all depends on what your goal is. If you are handy, can work on your car yourself and carry out retrofits and love the power of a V8 (tunable to over 600 hp), then choose the F10. It's also really nice to have all the options. Ventilated seats, active cruise and all are very functional and practical features. Today, however, I would look for a newer, well-equipped 540i or m550i. So it's not an easy decision, but I hope you are happy with the result
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| beryl (581hp) | Assume that there is less risk associated with the 540i's inline-six, but also assume that more benefits could be achieved with the 550i's twin-turbo V8. Just my $0.02, but I think both are quite capable of inducing a grin from ear to ear. GL and post pictures if you bring something home.
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| tete (99hp) | Are you an owner/driver who gets from A to B or one who values every second behind the wheel? The 540i will likely be the more reliable of the two, but that doesn't mean the 550i won't be reliable. On the other hand, the 550i will give you joy in every kilometer you put behind the wheel, both in terms of performance and driving experience. Choose the 540i if you think of cars as getting you from point A to B (but in style), you want a more reliable engine, you're looking for the latest electronics and gadgets, a Want better mileage, want a slightly cheaper car to repair and easier maintenance Go for the 550i if you're an adrenaline junkie and love the rush of going from 0 to 60 in under 4 seconds. You appreciate the driving experience and handling (the F10 550i is). the last car ever made by BMW with hydraulic power steering) I don't like the look of all modern BMWs (lol, very subjective here)
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| tellabs (948hp) | Quote: Originally posted by spielnicht Are you an A-to-B type owner/driver or someone who values every second behind the wheel? The 540i will likely be the more reliable of the two, but that doesn't mean the 550i won't be reliable. On the other hand, the 550i will give you joy in every kilometer you put behind the wheel, both in terms of performance and driving experience. Choose the 540i if you think of cars as getting you from point A to B (but in style), you want a more reliable engine, you're looking for the latest electronics and gadgets, a Want better mileage, want a slightly cheaper car to repair and easier maintenance Go for the 550i if you're an adrenaline junkie and love the rush of going from 0 to 60 in under 4 seconds. You appreciate the driving experience and handling (the F10 550i is). the last car ever made by BMW with hydraulic power steering) I don't like the look of all modern BMWs (lol, very subjective here) IIRC, there is at most a half second difference in 0-60 times. Only the X-Drives have hydraulic racks.
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| dogman1 (100hp) | Test the fit while waiting for the back piece to arrive
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| link4me (294hp) | Here's a quick video I dropped with my fog light covers! Mods for the BMW F10: carbon fiber mirror caps and fog lights deleted
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| april13 (751hp) | Does this fit the LCI 2014 M sports bumper? I see two different versions on eBay. Thanks!
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| bmr760 (456hp) | My bumper from the YouTube video above came from a 2014 LCI M Sport.
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| mensuck (304hp) | Quote: Originally posted by Gjohnson7. My bumper from the YouTube video above came from a 2014 LCI M Sport. Thanks!!
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| porshe911 (460hp) | The display shows that half of the grills are not opened (vented). Is that correct? I really didn't want to block the airflow on one side since the eBay fog screens seem to be half closed. Thanks again
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| taliban (741hp) | The eBay models are half closed, I just picked up a pair. I'm going to try opening them up via Dremel and spraying them again with trim paint
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| harbor (835hp) | Quote: Originally written by Wht550jersey. The eBay models are half closed, I just picked up a pair. I'm going to try opening them up via Dremel and spraying them again with trim paint. Thanks! That's what I was worried about. Does anyone sell them fully open like the M5 version??
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| 26071995 (353hp) | Test the fit while waiting for the back piece to arrive
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| skyline2 (582hp) | Here's a quick video I put down with my fog light covers! Mods for the BMW F10: carbon fiber mirror caps and fog lights deleted
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| 120898 (383hp) | Does this fit the LCI 2014 M sports bumper? I see two different versions on eBay. Thanks!
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| wasted1 (626hp) | My bumper from the YouTube video above came from a 2014 LCI M Sport.
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| bigdog (31hp) | Quote: Originally posted by Gjohnson7. My bumper from the YouTube video above came from a 2014 LCI M Sport. Thanks!!
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| 19021983 (760hp) | The display shows that half of the grills are not opened (vented). Is that correct? I really didn't want to block the airflow on one side since the eBay fog screens seem to be half closed. Thanks again
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| leona (675hp) | The eBay models are half closed, I just picked up a pair. I'm going to try opening them up via Dremel and spraying them again with trim paint
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| 302019 (880hp) | Quote: Originally written by Wht550jersey. The eBay models are half closed, I just picked up a pair. I'm going to try opening them up via Dremel and spraying them again with trim paint. Thanks! That's what I was worried about. Does anyone sell them fully open like the M5 version??
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| morrissey (738hp) | Hi guys, my 2010 550i GT was misfiring on bank 2 (all cylinders) and I was shown some misfire codes and DTM and rich mixture codes. I did a smoke test and found that the turbo diverter valve (=wastegate actuator/electric valve) was leaking, so I replaced it. After replacing, only cylinders 6 and 8 were misfiring, so I decided to replace the spark plugs and coils to see if they were the problem. When I took out the plugs and coils I found that the coils were broken, so I replaced the plugs and coils on the 6 and 8. After the replacement, dtm disappeared and the codes didn't appear for a few weeks. However, I felt that the car was slowly returning to the condition it was in before the replacement and it started throwing DTM and rich mixture and misfire codes on cylinder 8 only. I haven't taken the plug and coil out to check yet, but I have a strong feeling they are broken again. My question is what could cause the spark plug and ignition coil pack to fail so quickly? (It's only been 2 weeks and the problem I'm having is the same as before but less severe.) Could someone please share his or her insights on this with me? )
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| perroloco (936hp) | Hi guys, my 2010 550i GT was misfiring on bank 2 (all cylinders) and I was shown some misfire codes and DTM and rich mixture codes. I did a smoke test and found that the turbo diverter valve (=wastegate actuator/electric valve) was leaking, so I replaced it. After replacing, only cylinders 6 and 8 were misfiring, so I decided to replace the spark plugs and coils to see if they were the problem. When I took out the plugs and coils I found that the coils were broken, so I replaced the plugs and coils on the 6 and 8. After the replacement, dtm disappeared and the codes didn't appear for a few weeks. However, I felt that the car was slowly returning to the condition it was in before the replacement and it started throwing DTM and rich mixture and misfire codes on cylinder 8 only. I haven't taken the plug and coil out to check yet, but I have a strong feeling they are broken again. My question is what could cause the spark plug and ignition coil pack to fail so quickly? (It's only been two weeks and the problem I'm having is the same as before but less severe.) Could someone please share his or her insights on this with me? )
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| rylee1 (970hp) | Hi everyone, I bought a 2016 535i with adaptive headlight LED and not long ago I had a body shop install an M5 replica front bumper. 3 weeks later, moisture has accumulated inside my headlight. So I took the bumper off to check the headlight. This is what I noticed They must have lost one of the original screws on the top and replaced it with a regular hex screw, but the screw was longer than the original and left a hole in the headlight that allowed water to get in. And of course they deny that they are allowed to replace the headlight themselves, but how complicated is Esys for coding the module? Is this something someone can help me with? I have Ista, which I use pretty well, and Esys, but have never gotten around to playing around much, but would like to get more familiar with it. So I can program something myself. Thank you everyone. Here are the codes
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| rose17 (208hp) | Quote: Originally posted by Dio781 Hello everyone, I purchased a 2016 535i with adaptive headlight LED and not long ago I had a body shop install an M5 replica front bumper. 3 weeks later my headlight had moisture build up inside so I took the bumper off to check the headlight. I noticed that they must have lost one of the original screws on the top and replaced it with a regular hex screw, but the screw was longer than the original and made a hole in the headlight that allowed water to get in. And of course you deny that I can replace the headlight myself, but how complicated is Esys for coding the module? Is this something someone can help me with? I have Ista, which I use pretty well, and Esys, but have never gotten around to playing around much, but would like to get more familiar with it so I can do some programming myself. Thank you everyone. Here are the codes. Quote: Originally posted by Dio781 Hello everyone, so I bought a 2016 535i with adaptive headlight LEDs and not long ago I had an M5 replica of the front bumper installed at an auto body shop. 3 weeks later there was moisture in my headlight accumulated. So when I took the bumper off to check the headlight I noticed that they must have lost one of the original screws that was on the top and replaced it with a regular hex screw, but the screw was broken and was longer than the original Made a hole in the headlight to allow water to enter. And of course they deny it. I can replace the headlight myself, but how complicated is Esys to code the module? Can someone help me with this? I have Ista, which I use quite well, and Esys, but have never gotten around much, but would like to get familiar with it so I can do some programming myself. Thank you everyone. Here are the codes. Hello, based on the ISTA error codes it looks like the headlight unit control module isn't communicating with the other control modules, so maybe it's not plugged in properly or something like that. Could it be a fuse? Is it shown green in the ECU diagram or is it yellow or red? I also know that the adaptive headlights are very expensive, so it might be worth trying to remove the condensation somehow and seal the red hole in the light with epoxy or something similar. The control unit in one of my headlights failed and I received the same error messages as with your I-Drive. BMW attributed it to water leakage and replaced it under warranty, but that fixed the problem. Good luck
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| saturn5 (117hp) | Quote: Originally posted by vern321 Quote: Originally posted by Dio781 Hi everyone, I got a 2016 535i with adaptive headlight LED and not long ago I had a body shop install an M5 replica front bumper. 3 weeks later moisture built up in my headlight So when I took the bumper off to check the headlight I noticed they must have lost one of the original screws on the top and replaced it with a regular hex head screw but the screw was longer than the original screw make a hole in the headlight to allow water to enter. And of course they deny it. I can replace the headlight myself, but how complicated is Esys to code the module? Can someone help me with this? I have Ista, which I use pretty well, and Esys, but I've never gotten around to playing around much. But I would like to become more familiar with it so that I can program something myself. Thank you everyone. Here are the codes. Quote: Originally posted by Dio781. Hi everyone, so I got a 2016 535i with adaptive headlight LED and not long ago I had an M5 replica front bumper installed at a body shop. Three weeks later, moisture began to build up in my headlight. So when I took the bumper off to check the headlight I noticed that one of the original screws must have been lost. That goes on the top and replaced with a regular hex head screw, but the screw was longer than the original and left a hole in the headlight through which water could enter. And of course they deny it. I can replace the headlight myself, but how complicated is Esys to code the module. Is this something someone can help me with? I have Ista, which I use quite well, and Esys, but have never gotten around much, but would like to get familiar with it so I can do some programming myself. Thank you everyone. Here are the codes Hello, from the ISTA error codes it appears that the headlight unit control module is not communicating with the rest of the control modules. So maybe it's not plugged in properly or something. Could it be a fuse? Is it shown green in the ECU diagram or is it yellow or red? I also know that the adaptive headlights are very expensive, so it might be worth trying to remove the condensation somehow and seal the red hole in the light with epoxy or something similar. The control unit in one of my headlights failed and I received the same error messages as with your I-Drive. BMW attributed it to water leakage and replaced it under warranty, but that fixed the problem. Good luck. Thank you for taking the time and giving me some input. I'll check this again. But I removed the headlight right away and the module had some corrosion. I could try just replacing the module itself. But I still have to code the car right ?
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| getmoney$ (175hp) | Quote: Originally posted by Dio781 Quote: Originally posted by vern321 Quote: Originally posted by Dio781 Hi everyone, So I got a 2016 535i with adaptive headlight LED and not long ago I had an M5 from a body shop 3 weeks later -Install replica front bumper Moisture has accumulated inside the headlight. So when I took the bumper off to check the headlight I noticed that they must have lost one of the original screws on the top and replaced it with a generic hex head screw, but the screw was longer than the original and I installed a hole in the headlight through which water can penetrate. And of course they deny it. I can replace the headlight myself, but how complicated is Esys to code the module? Can someone help me with this? I have Ista, which I use quite well, and Esys, but have never gotten around to playing around much, but would like to get more familiar with it so I can do some programming myself. Thank you everyone. Here are the codes. Quote: Originally posted by Dio781 Hi everyone, So I got a 2016 535i with adaptive headlight LED And not long ago I had a M5 replica front bumper installed at a body shop. Three weeks later, moisture began to build up in my headlight. So when I took the bumper off to check the headlight I noticed that one of the original screws on top must have been lost and replaced it with a generic hex head screw, but the screw was longer than the original and has a hole in the headlight drilled through which water could penetrate. And of course they deny it. I can replace the headlight myself, but how complicated is Esys for coding? Module Is this something someone can help me with? I have Ista, which I use quite well, and Esys, but have never gotten around much, but would like to get familiar with it so I can do some programming myself. Thank you everyone. Here are the codes Hello, from the ISTA error codes it appears that the headlight unit control module is not communicating with the rest of the control modules. So maybe it's not plugged in properly or something. Could it be a fuse? Is it shown green in the ECU diagram or is it yellow or red? I also know that the adaptive headlights are very expensive, so it might be worth trying to remove the condensation somehow and seal the red hole in the light with epoxy or something similar. The control unit in one of my headlights failed and I received the same error messages as with your I-Drive. BMW attributed it to water leakage and replaced it under warranty, but that fixed the problem. Good luck. Thank you for taking the time and giving me some input. I'll check this again. But I removed the headlight right away and the module had some corrosion. I could try just replacing the module itself. But I still have to code the car. Right? Quote: Originally posted by Dio781 Quote: Originally posted by vern321 Quote: Originally posted by Dio781 Hi everyone, So I got a 2016 535i with adaptive headlight LED and not long ago I had an M5 from a body shop 3 weeks later -Install replica front bumper Moisture has accumulated inside the headlight. So when I took the bumper off to check the headlight I noticed that they must have lost one of the original screws on the top and replaced it with a generic hex screw, but the screw was longer than the original and I installed a hole.
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| Karrera4 (979hp) | New modules require a program; they are usually used without a program
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| 1forall (481hp) | Quote: Originally written by Dio781 Thank you for taking the time and giving me some input. I'll check this again. But I removed the headlight right away and the module had some corrosion. I could try just replacing the module itself, but I still have to do it to code the car, right? Same problem, 2014 535 led adaptive. A month ago I noticed that my passenger headlight looked like a fishbowl. (It barely showed the slightest bit of moisture.) Within a few days I was getting adaptive headlight failure warnings and similar headlight warnings. I parked the car on Friday afternoon when I got in on Monday morning the battery was completely dead, I took out my meter and the battery was at 8 volts. I was about to get a battery when I realized I should probably take care of this headlight problem too. I googled and searched the forums and found that a short circuit in the module can also cause the button to turn off, thereby destroying the battery. At this point I pull the headlight out and send it out to seal again. Luckily it had only been a few days and I wasn't burned yet when the module slides in, so I ordered a new headlight module (it retails for about 640 in the States I). I found one for 460 supplied by a BMW dealer in the southeast) and yes it needs to be coded, the key draw ended immediately after replacing the module. I had someone code it remotely and it now has high and low beams again, but there was a right turn signal malfunction. He said he couldn't fix it remotely so now I'm reading up on ista and esys and seeing what I need to do to get the indicators back on. If you have comprehensive insurance, I would file a claim and tell them about any damage the repair shop caused to your car. A new headlight costs between 2800 and 3300 depending on the dealer. I had mine resealed for 300. With shipping.
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| notused (81hp) | Hi everyone, I bought a 2016 535i with adaptive headlight LED and not long ago I had a body shop install an M5 replica front bumper. 3 weeks later, moisture has accumulated inside my headlight. So I took the bumper off to check the headlight. This is what I noticed They must have lost one of the original screws on the top and replaced it with a regular hex screw, but the screw was longer than the original and left a hole in the headlight that allowed water to get in. And of course they deny that they are allowed to replace the headlight themselves, but how complicated is Esys for coding the module? Is this something someone can help me with? I have Ista, which I use pretty well, and Esys, but have never gotten around to playing around much, but would like to get more familiar with it. So I can program something myself. Thank you everyone. Here are the codes
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| 29111989 (221hp) | Quote: Originally posted by Dio781 Hello everyone, I purchased a 2016 535i with adaptive headlight LED and not long ago I had a body shop install an M5 replica front bumper. 3 weeks later my headlight had moisture build up inside so I took the bumper off to check the headlight. I noticed that they must have lost one of the original screws on the top and replaced it with a regular hex screw, but the screw was longer than the original and made a hole in the headlight that allowed water to get in. Of course they deny that I did You can replace the headlight yourself, but how complicated is Esys for coding the module? Is this something someone can help me with? I have Ista, which I use pretty well, and Esys, but have never gotten around to playing around much, but would like to get more familiar with it so I can do some programming myself. Thank you everyone. Here are the codes. Quote: Originally posted by Dio781 Hi everyone, So I got a 2016 535i with adaptive headlight LED, not long ago, moisture built up in my headlight when I took the bumper off to check the headlight . I noticed that one of the original screws on top must have been lost and I replaced it with a regular hex head, but the screw was longer than the original and left a hole in the headlight that allowed water to get in. And of course they deny it. I can replace the headlight myself, but how complicated is Esys to code the module? Is that so? I have something that someone can help me with ista that I use pretty well, and Esys, but have never gotten around with it much, but would like to get more familiar with it so I can do some programming myself. Thank you everyone. Here are the codes. Hello, from the ISTA error codes it looks like the headlight unit ECU isn't communicating with the other ECUs, so maybe it's not plugged in properly or something like that. Could it be a fuse? Is it shown green in the ECU diagram or is it yellow or red? I also know that the adaptive headlights are very expensive, so it might be worth trying to remove the condensation somehow and seal the red hole in the light with epoxy or something similar. The control unit in one of my headlights failed and I received the same error messages as with your I-Drive. BMW attributed it to water leakage and replaced it under warranty, but that fixed the problem. Good luck
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| anjelika (730hp) | Quote: Originally posted by vern321 Quote: Originally posted by Dio781 Hi everyone, I got a 2016 535i with adaptive headlight LED and not long ago I had a body shop install an M5 replica front bumper. 3 weeks later moisture built up in my headlight So when I took the bumper off to check the headlight I noticed they must have lost one of the original screws on the top and replaced it with a regular hex head screw but the screw was longer than the original screw make a hole in the headlight to allow water to enter. And of course they deny it. I can replace the headlight myself, but how complicated is Esys to code the module? Can someone help me with this? I have Ista, which I use pretty well, and Esys, but I've never gotten around to playing around much. But I would like to become more familiar with it so that I can program something myself. Thank you everyone. Here are the codes. Quote: Originally posted by Dio781. Hi everyone, so I got a 2016 535i with adaptive headlight LED and not long ago I had an M5 replica front bumper installed at a body shop. Three weeks later, moisture began to build up in my headlight. So when I took the bumper off to check the headlight I noticed that one of the original screws must have been lost. That goes on the top and replaced with a regular hex head screw, but the screw was longer than the original and left a hole in the headlight through which water could enter. And of course they deny it. I can replace the headlight myself, but how complicated is Esys to code the module. Is this something someone can help me with? I have Ista, which I use quite well, and Esys, but have never gotten around much, but would like to get familiar with it so I can do some programming myself. Thank you everyone. Here are the codes Hello, from the ISTA error codes it appears that the headlight unit control module is not communicating with the rest of the control modules. So maybe it's not plugged in properly or something. Could it be a fuse? Is it shown green in the ECU diagram or is it yellow or red? I also know that the adaptive headlights are very expensive, so it might be worth trying to remove the condensation somehow and seal the red hole in the light with epoxy or something similar. The control unit in one of my headlights failed and I received the same error messages as with your I-Drive. BMW attributed it to water leakage and replaced it under warranty, but that fixed the problem. Good luck. Thank you for taking the time and giving me some input. I'll check this again. But I removed the headlight right away and the module had some corrosion. I could try just replacing the module itself. But I still have to code the car right ?
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| edwardo (946hp) | Quote: Originally posted by Dio781 Quote: Originally posted by vern321 Quote: Originally posted by Dio781 Hi everyone, So I got a 2016 535i with adaptive headlight LED and not long ago I had an M5 from a body shop 3 weeks later -Install replica front bumper Moisture has accumulated inside the headlight. So when I took the bumper off to check the headlight I noticed that they must have lost one of the original screws that was on the top and replaced it with a regular hex head one screw but the screw was longer than the original and left a hole in the headlight that allowed water to get in. And of course they deny it. I can replace the headlight myself, but how complicated is Esys to code the module? Is this something that someone has? I can help myself with this. I have Ista, which I use quite well, and Esys, but have never gotten around with it much, but would like to get familiar with it so I can do some programming myself. Thank you everyone. Here are the codes. Quote: Originally posted by Dio781 Hi everyone, So I bought a 2016 535i with adaptive headlight LED and not long ago I had a body shop install an M5 replica front bumper. Three weeks later, moisture built up inside my headlight. So when I took the bumper off to check the headlight I noticed that it must have been lost. One of the original screws that go on top had been replaced with a regular hex head screw, but the screw was longer than the original screw and left a Hole in the headlight that allowed water to get in. And of course they deny that I can replace the headlights myself But how complicated is coding the module with Esys? Can someone help me with this? I have Ista, which I use pretty well, and Esys, but have never gotten around to playing around much. But I would like to become more familiar with it so I can program something myself. Thanks everyone. Here are the codes. Hello, from the ISTA error codes it appears that the headlight unit control module is not communicating with the rest of the control modules. So maybe it's not plugged in properly or something. Could it be a fuse? Is it shown green in the ECU diagram or is it yellow or red? I also know that the adaptive headlights are very expensive, so it might be worth trying to remove the condensation somehow and seal the red hole in the light with epoxy or something similar. The control unit in one of my headlights failed and I received the same error messages as with your I-Drive. BMW attributed it to water leakage and replaced it under warranty, but that fixed the problem. Good luck. Thank you for taking the time and giving me some input. I'll check this again. But I removed the headlight right away and the module had some corrosion. I could try just replacing the module itself. But I still have to code the car. Right? Quote: Originally posted by Dio781 Quote: Originally posted by vern321 Quote: Originally posted by Dio781 Hi everyone, So I got a 2016 535i with adaptive headlight LED and not long ago I had an M5 from a body shop 3 weeks later -Install replica front bumper Moisture has accumulated inside the headlight. So when I took the bumper off to check the headlight, I noticed that they must have lost one of the original screws that were on the top and put it through.
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| roseann1 (269hp) | New modules require a program; they are usually used without a program
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| all123 (258hp) | Quote: Originally written by Dio781 Thank you for taking the time and giving me some input. I'll check this again. But I removed the headlight right away and the module had some corrosion. I could try just replacing the module itself, but I still have to do it to code the car, right? Same problem, 2014 535 led adaptive. A month ago I noticed that my passenger headlight looked like a fishbowl. (It barely showed the slightest bit of moisture.) Within a few days I was getting adaptive headlight failure warnings and similar headlight warnings. I parked the car on Friday afternoon when I got in on Monday morning the battery was completely dead, I took out my meter and the battery was at 8 volts. I was about to get a battery when I realized I should probably take care of this headlight problem too. I googled and searched the forums and found that a short circuit in the module can also cause the button to turn off, thereby destroying the battery. At this point I pull the headlight out and send it out to seal again. Luckily it had only been a few days and I wasn't burned yet when the module slides in, so I ordered a new headlight module (it retails for about 640 in the States I). I found one for 460 supplied by a BMW dealer in the southeast) and yes it needs to be coded, the key draw ended immediately after replacing the module. I had someone code it remotely and it now has high and low beams again, but there was a right turn signal malfunction. He said he couldn't fix it remotely so now I'm reading up on ista and esys and seeing what I need to do to get the indicators back on. If you have comprehensive insurance, I would file a claim and tell them about any damage the repair shop caused to your car. A new headlight costs between 2800 and 3300 depending on the dealer. I had mine resealed for 300. With shipping.
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| metalhead1 (27hp) | Or similar. I searched for a source to no avail as the pipe sensor connector was broken. https://ibb.co/khqH1rP
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| boondocks1 (361hp) | Have you tried using one of the online parts database sites such as www.realoem.com or www.bimmercat.com? You should be able to look up the 11 digit BMW part number and then shop with the correct number based on the last 7 digits of your VIN. They also know the correct name of the part, which can be helpful when communicating with vendors or using the search function on websites.
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| mineral (741hp) | I believe the part number is 13717609811. https://www.fcpeuro.com/products/bmw...ct-13717609811 I would recommend buying an aftermarket pipe as it is better than the plastic pipe made by BMW and cheaper.
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| Thunder (230hp) | Or similar. I searched for a source to no avail as the pipe sensor connector was broken. https://ibb.co/khqH1rP
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| emerald1 (227hp) | Have you tried using one of the online parts database sites such as www.realoem.com or www.bimmercat.com? You should be able to look up the 11 digit BMW part number and then shop with the correct number based on the last 7 digits of your VIN. They also know the correct name of the part, which can be helpful when communicating with vendors or using the search function on websites.
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| dogsrule1 (641hp) | I believe the part number is 13717609811. https://www.fcpeuro.com/products/bmw...ct-13717609811 I would recommend buying an aftermarket pipe as it is better than the plastic pipe made by BMW and cheaper.
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| 040280 (432hp) | Hi guys, I've been researching for some time now but I can't find the right code for exactly what I want. I've seen some coding methods that eliminate some of the features I want. Below is what I'm looking for and I hope someone knows how I can code this. I have a 2012 F10. 1) I want my bumper fog lights to stay on during the day with my angel eyes. I know I can connect them to my daytime running lights, but that would mean the fog lights would be turned off when I turn on the low beams 2) I would also like to be able to keep the fog lights on when I turn on the low beams. 3) I also want the fog light switch to work so I can turn the fog lights on and off at will. Anyone Do you have any ideas? I read that I may be able to code my fog lights to my angel eyes and then code my angel eyes to stay on with my low beam headlights that will solve my problem. Does anyone know how I can do this exactly with BimmerCode??
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| miami2 (174hp) | Quote: Originally posted by Maz0106 Hi guys, I've been researching for a while now but I can't find the right code for exactly what I want. I've seen some coding methods that removed some of the features I wanted. Below is what I'm looking for and I hope someone knows how I can code this. I have a 2012 F10. 1) I want my bumper fog lights to stay on during the day with my angel eyes... I know I can connect them to my daytime running lights, but that would mean the fog lights would be turned off when I turn it to low 2) I want to be able to also keep the fog lights on when I turn on the low beams. 3) I also want the fog light switch to work so I can turn the fog lights on and off at will. Does anyone have any ideas? I read that I might be able to code my fog lights to my angel eyes and then code my angel eyes to stay on with my low beam headlights that would solve my problem. Does anyone know how exactly I can do this with BimmerCode? You can turn on the fog lights at any time when the car is on. As long as you have selected daytime running lights (corona rings) in iDrive, the fog lights and rings are switched on at the same time. The corona rings remain switched on during low and high beam. With headlights on the percentage is lower (60% IIRC) but can be coded accordingly 100%.
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| beeswax (149hp) | Quote: Originally posted by ezaircon4jc Quote: Originally posted by Maz0106 Hi guys, I've been researching for a while but I can't find the right code for exactly what I want. I've seen some coding methods that eliminate some of the features I want. Below is what I'm looking for and I hope someone knows how I can code this. I have a 2012 F10. 1) I want my bumper fog lights to stay on during the day with my angel eyes. I know I can connect them to my daytime running lights, but that would mean the fog lights would be turned off when I turn on the low beams 2) I would also like to be able to keep the fog lights on when I turn on the low beams. 3) I also want the fog light switch to work so I can turn the fog lights on and off at will. Anyone Do you have any ideas? I read that I might be able to code my fog lights to my angel eyes and then code my angel eyes to stay on with my low beam headlights that would solve my problem. Does anyone know how exactly I can do this with BimmerCode? You can turn on the fog lights at any time when the car is on. As long as you have selected daytime running lights (corona rings) in iDrive, the fog lights and rings are switched on at the same time. The corona rings remain switched on when the headlights are low. With headlights on the percentage is lower (60% IIRC) but can be coded to 100%. Thanks, I just realized this is possible as long as I select it manually.
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| colacola (862hp) | Hi guys, I've been researching for some time now but I can't find the right code for exactly what I want. I've seen some coding methods that eliminate some of the features I want. Below is what I'm looking for and I hope someone knows how I can code this. I have a 2012 F10. 1) I want my bumper fog lights to stay on during the day with my angel eyes. I know I can connect them to my daytime running lights, but that would mean the fog lights would be turned off when I turn on the low beams 2) I would also like to be able to keep the fog lights on when I turn on the low beams. 3) I also want the fog light switch to work so I can turn the fog lights on and off at will. Anyone have any ideas? I read that I might be able to code my fog lights to my angel eyes and then code my angel eyes to stay on with my low beam headlights that would solve my problem. Does anyone know how I can do this exactly with BimmerCode??
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| 240295 (25hp) | Quote: Originally posted by Maz0106 Hi guys, I've been researching for a while now but I can't find the right code for exactly what I want. I've seen some coding methods that removed some of the features I wanted. Below is what I'm looking for and I hope someone knows how I can code this. I have a 2012 F10. 1) I want my bumper fog lights to stay on during the day with my angel eyes... I know I can connect them to my daytime running lights, but that would mean the fog lights would be turned off when I turn it to low 2) I want to be able to also keep the fog lights on when I turn on the low beams. 3) I also want the fog light switch to work so I can turn the fog lights on and off at will. Does anyone have any? Ideas? I read that I might be able to code my fog lights to my angel eyes and then code my angel eyes to stay on with my low beam headlights that would solve my problem. Does anyone know how exactly I can do this with BimmerCode? You can turn on the fog lights at any time when the car is on. As long as you have selected daytime running lights (corona rings) in iDrive, the fog lights and rings are switched on at the same time. The corona rings remain switched on during low and high beam. With headlights on the percentage is lower (60% IIRC) but can be coded accordingly 100%.
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| c111111 (27hp) | Quote: Originally posted by ezaircon4jc Quote: Originally posted by Maz0106 Hi guys, I've been researching for a while but I can't find the right code for exactly what I want. I've seen some coding methods that eliminate some of the features I want. Below is what I'm looking for and I hope someone knows how I can code this. I have a 2012 F10. 1) I want my bumper fog lights to stay on during the day with my angel eyes. I know I can connect them to my daytime running lights, but that would mean the fog lights would be turned off when I turn on the low beams 2) I would also like to be able to keep the fog lights on when I turn on the low beams. 3) I also want the fog light switch to work so I can turn the fog lights on and off at will. Anyone have any ideas? I read that I might be able to code my fog lights to my angel eyes and then code my angel eyes to stay on with my low beam headlights to solve my problem. Does anyone know how exactly I can do this with BimmerCode? You can turn on the fog lights at any time when the car is on. As long as you have selected daytime running lights (corona rings) in iDrive, the fog lights and rings are switched on at the same time. The corona rings remain switched on when the headlights are low. With headlights on the percentage is lower (60% IIRC) but can be coded to 100%. Thanks, I just realized this is possible as long as I select it manually.
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| vivek (936hp) | Hello everyone! I have a 2013 F10 (pre-LCI) and wanted to update the NBT software to the latest version available. Unfortunately, it looks like the BMW website no longer shows updates. Does anyone have a copy of UPD05021.bin that they could please share? Thank you! Ps. I tried the search function but can't find a "live" link!
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| farthead1 (540hp) | The website appears to be working. I entered my VIN and my vehicle was verified https://www.bmw.com/en/footer/software-updates.html
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| jasper! (281hp) | Hello everyone! I have a 2013 F10 (pre-LCI) and wanted to update the NBT software to the latest version available. Unfortunately, it looks like the BMW website no longer shows updates. Does anyone have a copy of UPD05021.bin that they could please share? Thank you! Ps. I tried the search function but can't find a "live" link!
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| 261076 (559hp) | The website appears to be working. I entered my VIN and my vehicle was verified https://www.bmw.com/en/footer/software-updates.html
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| 12091976 (315hp) | More excitement for my one-off F10... The rattling noise that I thought was coming from my intake manifold was diagnosed as the cause of the cutoff disk. Cool, simple solution, I say, right! But my shop says there is no pulley for my car. Of course the service writer didn't know I had an N52 engine either. There are hardly any Euro-Indies in my small town, so that's how it is. Long/short, FCP has the pulley and appears to be an easy swap. Buuuuuut, my existing pulley has a 10mm(??) screw instead of a hexagon socket screw, which I can't put a socket wrench on, and which also accepts an external hex tool to turn it off, and not more universal splines , which I expected. Totally the opposite of everything I see. So, any suggestions? Should I try an exchange? Just buy a new alternator? Give up the combustion engine and buy an i4? My pulley: What I expected and looks like a normal Bosch pulley:
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| fruitcake1 (115hp) | So, update to the update...the people who diagnosed this are idiots. Or just don't make any effort to figure out the problem. I borrowed a stethoscope today and attached it to the alternator. Quiet. Then I placed it on the distributor and click click click click... definitely came from there. So I suspect a DISA problem, although there are no codes for it. Tons of codes for the Valvetronic sensor :-/ The alternator shows code 210901 which indicates lack of connectivity. I think they went with a $150 Rock Auto alternator instead of BMW or Bosch. Although it works, it does not communicate properly with the system. This will probably destroy the battery :-/ Oh, did I mention that the PCV needs to be replaced? Valve cover, DISA and alternator... April will be expensive. The worst part is that I don't have a respected/trusted Indy to go to. Le sigh...
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| 1qazxcv (335hp) | More excitement for my one-off F10... The rattling noise that I thought was coming from my intake manifold was diagnosed as the cause of the cutoff disk. Cool, simple solution, I say, right! But my shop says there is no pulley for my car. Of course the service writer didn't know I had an N52 engine either. There are hardly any Euro-Indies in my small town, so that's how it is. Long/short, FCP has the pulley and appears to be an easy swap. Buuuuuut, my existing pulley has a 10mm(??) screw instead of a hexagon socket screw, which I can't put a socket wrench on, and which also accepts an external hex tool to turn it off, and not more universal splines , which I expected. Totally the opposite of everything I see. So, any suggestions? Should I try an exchange? Just buy a new alternator? Give up the combustion engine and buy an i4? My pulley: What I expected and looks like a normal Bosch pulley:
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| jtrejo (56hp) | So, update to the update...the people who diagnosed this are idiots. Or just don't make any effort to figure out the problem. I borrowed a stethoscope today and attached it to the alternator. Quiet. Then I placed it on the distributor and click click click click... definitely came from there. So I suspect a DISA problem, although there are no codes for it. Tons of codes for the Valvetronic sensor :-/ The alternator shows code 210901 which indicates lack of connectivity. I think they went with a $150 Rock Auto alternator instead of BMW or Bosch. Although it works, it does not communicate properly with the system. This will probably destroy the battery :-/ Oh, did I mention that the PCV needs to be replaced? Valve cover, DISA and alternator... April will be expensive. The worst part is that I don't have a respected/trusted Indy to go to. Le sigh...
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| InsertNameHere (31hp) | Hello, I hear a whining and ticking noise under the car. It didn't happen in the morning, but after warming up the noise starts to appear. The noise is the same as in the video link below. Does anyone know where the problem is? Thanks
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| jovelyn (413hp) | Here is another video for the sound: https://gofile.io/?c=UZ8up4. Thank you for your help. Thanks
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| 199015 (634hp) | What do the shops say? Is this noise coming from your tranny even though you're not shifting gears? Maybe it's the exhaust pipe. Take it to a workshop for diagnosis.
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| garion (520hp) | Not good. How long have you had the car? My buddy had a similar noise on his salvaged M5 that he picked up. It turned out to be a damaged pole. Use a stethoscope to locate the ticking sound.
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| distancenet (939hp) | Could be several things. First, a new filter/pan and the correct 8HP gear oil would need to be ordered. Then drop the pan for inspection. For the first noise in the video, it could simply be because the magnet in the tub is loose, the inner tub cracked when you drove over something that hit it, or it could be a loose mechatronic with a screw unscrewed . There are numerous other reasons, but without knowledge of the service history, your driving habits, or the way the transmission shifts, it cannot be diagnosed with this video alone. The first thing you need to do to inspect is drop the filter/pan. Finally, check the rubber mounts for the engine and gearbox. At least the filter/pan and transmission fluid ensure proper fluid levels and good maintenance.
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| chicken (585hp) | Sounds like a whiplash to me...
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| hope01 (499hp) | Quote: Originally written by BrandBMW. Could be several things. First, a new filter/pan and the correct 8HP gear oil would need to be ordered. Then drop the pan for inspection. For the first noise in the video, it could simply be because the magnet in the tub is loose, the inner tub cracked when you drove over something that hit it, or it could be a loose mechatronic with a screw unscrewed . There are numerous other reasons, but without knowledge of the service history, your driving habits, or the way the transmission shifts, it cannot be diagnosed with this video alone. The first thing you need to do to inspect is drop the filter/pan. Finally, check the rubber mounts for the engine and gearbox. At least the filter/pan and transmission fluid ensure proper fluid levels and good maintenance. Hello, it didn't just happen in the morning, but after warming up the noise starts to appear, so maybe from the filter/pan? I have never changed it and the mileage is now 200,000 km. Thanks
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| sahana (531hp) | Quote: Originally posted by perrymaxima What are the stores saying? Is this noise coming from your tranny even though you're not shifting gears? This could possibly be the exhaust pipe. Take it to a workshop for diagnosis. Hello, the noise starts after the car warms up even if it doesn't shift and there is some error or error message. Thanks
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| koolkat (290hp) | Quote: Originally written by Bmwdoubles_ Not good. How long have you had the car? My buddy had a similar noise on his salvaged M5 that he picked up. It turned out to be a damaged pole. Use a stethoscope to locate the ticking sound. The noise is coming from under the car, I'll try to use a stethoscope. Thanks
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| hotdog23 (504hp) | Quote: Originally posted by mrmarie Quote: Originally posted by Bmwdoubles_ Not good. How long have you had the car? My buddy had a similar noise on his salvaged M5 that he picked up. It turned out to be a damaged pole. Use a stethoscope to locate the ticking sound. The noise is coming from under the car, I'll try to use a stethoscope. Thanks, I'm mentioning this potential problem because my buddy's M5 was making the ticking noise from the same area under the car. We also thought it was a transmission. He disassembled the engine and discovered a damaged rod. The previous owner had tuned the car poorly. Probably the reason it was saved.
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| Paul7200 (815hp) | Have the same sound as my BMW F10, 528i, 2011. I've driven it like this for 13,000 miles. I recently changed the transmission pan and oil but it didn't help. However, the noise occurs as soon as the engine is a little warm and disappears once it is completely warm. If you find the problem, please reply to this post! Thanks!
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| d47m122 (635hp) | Put your paddle shifter in manual, shift into second or third gear and this noise will disappear. Just apply the brake before shifting into second gear. This means you need to see a transmission specialist. I will leave my car tomorrow because of this problem. I will inform you about the repair process.
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| econtemp (227hp) | Quote: Originally written by Andreee. Put the shifter in manual, shift into second or third gear and this noise disappears. Just apply the brake before shifting into second gear. This means you need to see a transmission specialist. I will leave my car tomorrow because of this problem. I will inform you about the repair process. Hello, please let me know if you receive an update. Thanks
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| fatboy69 (962hp) | You may be missing these sound insulation caps, P/N 24 14 7 603 258 and P/N 24 14 7 567 139. They close holes in the bell housing between the engine and transmission. BIG_KID 2011 28i N52 with ZF 8 speed, this part solved his problem
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| jack2008 (70hp) | Quote: Originally written by Andreee. Put the shifter in manual, shift into second or third gear and this noise disappears. Just apply the brake before shifting into second gear. This means you need to see a transmission specialist. I will leave my car tomorrow because of this problem. I will inform you about the repair process. Hello. I have exactly the same situation. When switching to M2 the knocking disappears. When I return to position D the knocking starts again. Did you somehow manage to solve this problem? Find out what the reason is?
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| jeroen (548hp) | Quote: Originally written by Andreee. Put the shifter in manual, shift into second or third gear and this noise disappears. Just apply the brake before shifting into second gear. This means you need to see a transmission specialist. I will leave my car tomorrow because of this problem. I will inform you about the repair process. Hello. Any news about what it was? What did the shop say/do to your Bimmer??
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| nonpayment (408hp) | Quote: Originally posted by mrmarie Hello, please let me know if you get an update. Thanks. Hello. Did you fix this problem at all? I have the exact noise coming from my gearbox.
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| travis4 (700hp) | Quote: Originally posted by said82ea Hello. I have exactly the same situation. When switching to M2 the knocking disappears. When I return to position D the knocking starts again. Have you somehow managed to solve this problem and find out what the reason is? Have you ever had it repaired? I have exactly the same problem as you.
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| triplet (948hp) | Hello, I hear a whining and ticking noise under the car. It didn't happen in the morning, but after warming up the noise starts to appear. The noise is the same as in the video link below. Does anyone know where the problem is? Thanks
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| rerghr (127hp) | Here is another video for the sound: https://gofile.io/?c=UZ8up4. Thank you for your help. Thanks
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| 08121991 (931hp) | What do the shops say? Is this noise coming from your tranny even though you're not shifting gears? Maybe it's the exhaust pipe. Take it to a workshop for diagnosis.
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| neverever (755hp) | Not good. How long have you had the car? My buddy had a similar noise on his salvaged M5 that he picked up. It turned out to be a damaged pole. Use a stethoscope to locate the ticking sound.
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| 22101992 (278hp) | Could be several things. First, a new filter/pan and the correct 8HP gear oil would need to be ordered. Then drop the pan for inspection. For the first noise in the video, it could simply be because the magnet in the tub is loose, the inner tub cracked when you drove over something that hit it, or it could be a loose mechatronic with a screw unscrewed . There are numerous other reasons, but without knowledge of the service history, your driving habits, or the way the transmission shifts, it cannot be diagnosed with this video alone. The first thing you need to do to inspect is drop the filter/pan. Finally, check the rubber mounts for the engine and gearbox. At least the filter/pan and transmission fluid ensure proper fluid levels and good maintenance.
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| frida1 (56hp) | Sounds like a whiplash to me...
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| 03051986 (562hp) | Quote: Originally written by BrandBMW. Could be several things. First, a new filter/pan and the correct 8HP gear oil would need to be ordered. Then drop the pan for inspection. For the first noise in the video, it could simply be because the magnet in the tub is loose, the inner tub cracked when you drove over something that hit it, or it could be a loose mechatronic with a screw unscrewed . There are numerous other reasons, but without knowledge of the service history, your driving habits, or the way the transmission shifts, it cannot be diagnosed with this video alone. The first thing you need to do to inspect is drop the filter/pan. Finally, check the rubber mounts for the engine and gearbox. At least the filter/pan and transmission fluid ensure proper fluid levels and good maintenance. Hello, it didn't just happen in the morning, but after warming up the noise starts to appear, so maybe from the filter/pan? I have never changed it and the mileage is now 200,000 km. Thanks
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| 4649 (886hp) | Quote: Originally posted by perrymaxima What are the stores saying? Is this noise coming from your tranny even though you're not shifting gears? This could possibly be the exhaust pipe. Take it to a workshop for diagnosis. Hello, the noise starts after the car warms up even if it doesn't shift and there is some error or error message. Thanks
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| funny7 (135hp) | Quote: Originally written by Bmwdoubles_ Not good. How long have you had the car? My buddy had a similar noise on his salvaged M5 that he picked up. It turned out to be a damaged pole. Use a stethoscope to locate the ticking sound. The noise is coming from under the car, I'll try to use a stethoscope. Thanks
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| dotty1 (650hp) | Quote: Originally posted by mrmarie Quote: Originally posted by Bmwdoubles_ Not good. How long have you had the car? My buddy had a similar noise on his salvaged M5 that he picked up. It turned out to be a damaged pole. Use a stethoscope to locate the ticking sound. The noise is coming from under the car, I'll try to use a stethoscope. Thanks, I'm mentioning this potential problem because my buddy's M5 was making the ticking noise from the same area under the car. We also thought it was a transmission. He disassembled the engine and discovered a damaged rod. The previous owner had tuned the car poorly. Probably the reason it was saved.
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| arrow (551hp) | Have the same sound as my BMW F10, 528i, 2011. I've driven it like this for 13,000 miles. I recently changed the transmission pan and oil but it didn't help. However, the noise occurs as soon as the engine is a little warm and disappears once it is completely warm. If you find the problem, please reply to this post! Thanks!
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| keisuke (110hp) | Put your paddle shifter in manual, shift into second or third gear and this noise will disappear. Just apply the brake before shifting into second gear. This means you need to see a transmission specialist. I will leave my car tomorrow because of this problem. I will inform you about the repair process.
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| hotpink2 (818hp) | Quote: Originally written by Andreee. Put the shifter in manual, shift into second or third gear and this noise disappears. Just apply the brake before shifting into second gear. This means you need to see a transmission specialist. I will leave my car tomorrow because of this problem. I will inform you about the repair process. Hello, please let me know if you receive an update. Thanks
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| elena123 (326hp) | You may be missing these sound insulation caps, P/N 24 14 7 603 258 and P/N 24 14 7 567 139. They close holes in the bell housing between the engine and transmission. BIG_KID 2011 28i N52 with ZF 8 speed, this part solved his problem
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| jaymie (817hp) | Quote: Originally written by Andreee. Put the shifter in manual, shift into second or third gear and this noise disappears. Just apply the brake before shifting into second gear. This means you need to see a transmission specialist. I will leave my car tomorrow because of this problem. I will inform you about the repair process. Hello. I have exactly the same situation. When switching to M2 the knocking disappears. When I return to position D the knocking starts again. Did you somehow manage to solve this problem? Find out what the reason is?
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| east1999 (174hp) | Quote: Originally written by Andreee. Put the shifter in manual, shift into second or third gear and this noise disappears. Just apply the brake before shifting into second gear. This means you need to see a transmission specialist. I will leave my car tomorrow because of this problem. I will inform you about the repair process. Hello. Any news about what it was? What did the shop say/do to your Bimmer??
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| FOREVER (883hp) | Quote: Originally posted by mrmarie Hello, please let me know if you get an update. Thanks. Hello. Did you fix this problem at all? I have the exact noise coming from my gearbox.
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| jimmy9 (319hp) | Quote: Originally posted by said82ea Hello. I have exactly the same situation. When switching to M2 the knocking disappears. When I return to position D the knocking starts again. Have you somehow managed to solve this problem and find out what the reason is? Have you ever had it repaired? I have exactly the same problem as you.
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| tinytim (252hp) | Wishful thinking: Is this model's oil pan easily removable when the oil pan gasket needs to be replaced? I spent some time looking for parts and repair manuals to better understand what it was all about, but I had no luck with the specific details. I'm hoping I won't have to remove the suspension cross member like I seem to have to do on other models. Has anyone seen or done this on a 2012 550i? Thanks for sharing.
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| vaquero (945hp) | The cross member must be lowered or at least enough to clear the oil pan. As far as information about the procedure goes, there isn't much. There's a guy on YouTube who shows what needs to come together, but again doesn't show you step by step.
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| apame (796hp) | Update: Lower oil pan gasket replacement. For the 2012 550i Replacing the oil pan gasket appears to be a straightforward affair. Based on some research, it seems reasonable to me to take additional precautions: 1- Use gasket sealant (not a gasket maker) on the rubber side to help seal the gasket. 2- Condition the rubber part of the seal. 3- Replace all screws with new ones. Once these aluminum screws are removed, replacement is almost mandatory. 4- While you're there, replace the oil drain plug. 5- Do not reuse the oil even if you have just changed it. Mine had less than 2,000 miles on it, but I replaced it anyway, including the oil filter, to adjust it at the next oil change. 6- On some models such as the 3 Series it is a good idea to check the internal oil pump bolts. Apparently, if the torque is too high or too low, they can come loose and will certainly destroy your engine. A replacement might be a good idea, especially for high mileage vehicles. As long as you are under the car, changing the oil in the differential (front and rear) is usually neglected, it is easy and inexpensive to do. and the $1,500 used in the theft is now back in your pocket.
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| catherine2 (589hp) | My previous post was before opening the oil pan. I have already opened it and examined it. As already mentioned, it is straightforward. The oil pump is easy to check once the oil pan is removed. Check the bolts and chain; further visual inspections won't hurt. I checked for debris and other trash, mine was very clean at this point. After a lot of research and comments from people, the gasket manufacturer may be cheaper than the original gasket. I had already purchased the gasket before researching, but gasket sealant might be a good idea. Sealant is not the same as gasket manufacturer. Sealant is used for small surface imperfections. Make sure you get one for oil. Just think of the 2012 550i x-drive, other series and years might be different.
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| ohnoyuji (13hp) | Quote: Originally posted by Bimmerroad Update: Lower oil pan gasket replacement. For the 2012 550i Replacing the oil pan gasket appears to be a straightforward affair. Based on some research, it seems reasonable to me to take additional precautions: 1- Use gasket sealant (not a gasket maker) on the rubber side to help seal the gasket. 2- Condition the rubber part of the seal. 3- Replace all screws with new ones. Once these aluminum screws are removed, replacement is almost mandatory. 4- While you're there, replace the oil drain plug. 5- Do not reuse the oil even if you have just changed it. Mine had less than 2,000 miles on it, but I replaced it anyway, including the oil filter, to adjust it at the next oil change. 6- On some models such as the 3 Series it is a good idea to check the internal oil pump bolts. Apparently, if the torque is too high or too low, they can come loose and will certainly destroy your engine. A replacement might be a good idea, especially for high mileage vehicles. As long as you are under the car, changing the oil in the differential (front and rear) is usually neglected, it is easy and inexpensive to do. and the $1,500 used in the theft is now back in your pocket. Did you happen to make a video of it? I'm also sorry for reviving an old post
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| lluvia (892hp) | Wishful thinking: Is this model's oil pan easily removable when the oil pan gasket needs to be replaced? I spent some time looking for parts and repair manuals to better understand what it was all about, but I had no luck with the specific details. I'm hoping I won't have to remove the suspension cross member like I seem to have to do on other models. Has anyone seen or done this on a 2012 550i? Thanks for sharing.
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| van123 (245hp) | The cross member must be lowered or at least enough to clear the oil pan. As far as information about the procedure goes, there isn't much. There's a guy on YouTube who shows what needs to come together, but again doesn't show you step by step.
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| stephy1 (863hp) | Update: Lower oil pan gasket replacement. For the 2012 550i Replacing the oil pan gasket appears to be a straightforward affair. Based on some research, it seems reasonable to me to take additional precautions: 1- Use gasket sealant (not a gasket maker) on the rubber side to help seal the gasket. 2- Condition the rubber part of the seal. 3- Replace all screws with new ones. Once these aluminum screws are removed, replacement is almost mandatory. 4- While you're there, replace the oil drain plug. 5- Do not reuse the oil even if you have just changed it. Mine had less than 2,000 miles on it, but I replaced it anyway, including the oil filter, to adjust it at the next oil change. 6- On some models such as the 3 Series it is a good idea to check the internal oil pump bolts. Apparently, if the torque is too high or too low, they can come loose and will certainly destroy your engine. A replacement might be a good idea, especially for high mileage vehicles. As long as you are under the car, changing the oil in the differential (front and rear) is usually neglected, it is easy and inexpensive to do. and the $1,500 used in the theft is now back in your pocket.
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| hazard (564hp) | My previous post was before opening the oil pan. I have already opened it and examined it. As already mentioned, it is straightforward. The oil pump is easy to check once the oil pan is removed. Check the bolts and chain; further visual inspections won't hurt. I checked for debris and other trash, mine was very clean at this point. After a lot of research and comments from people, the gasket manufacturer may be cheaper than the original gasket. I had already purchased the gasket before researching, but gasket sealant might be a good idea. Sealant is not the same as gasket manufacturer. Sealant is used for small surface imperfections. Make sure you get one for oil. Just think of the 2012 550i x-drive, other series and years might be different.
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| hunter6 (352hp) | Quote: Originally posted by Bimmerroad Update: Lower oil pan gasket replacement. For the 2012 550i Replacing the oil pan gasket appears to be a straightforward affair. Based on some research, it seems reasonable to me to take additional precautions: 1- Use gasket sealant (not a gasket maker) on the rubber side to help seal the gasket. 2- Condition the rubber part of the seal. 3- Replace all screws with new ones. Once these aluminum screws are removed, replacement is almost mandatory. 4- While you're there, replace the oil drain plug. 5- Do not reuse the oil even if you have just changed it. Mine had less than 2,000 miles on it, but I replaced it anyway, including the oil filter, to adjust it at the next oil change. 6- On some models such as the 3 Series it is a good idea to check the internal oil pump bolts. Apparently, if the torque is too high or too low, they can come loose and will certainly destroy your engine. A replacement might be a good idea, especially for high mileage vehicles. As long as you are under the car, changing the oil in the differential (front and rear) is usually neglected, it is easy and inexpensive to do. and the $1,500 used in the theft is now back in your pocket. Did you happen to make a video of it? I'm also sorry for reviving an old post
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