Username: | Message: |
mko9 (350hp) | The cup holder on mine makes a buzzing sound every now and then. As sure as I accept it, it won't do it. It's frustrating.
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jimmy23 (254hp) | Quote: Posted by AVIMAX Only one squeak for me, the passenger seat squeaks every time I hit a bump. If someone is sitting in the seat, no squeaking, if I apply side pressure to the seat back while driving, no squeaking, then at least I know where it's coming from. I will eventually have to take it to the dealer to have it repaired. I have the exact same problem, just started at 29,000 miles.
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therock123 (20hp) | Quote: Originally Posted by 1HOT BMR Quote: Originally Posted by Bmrmeup If something is wrong with your car, try to take it back to the dealership as soon as possible. It’s to your advantage! I see no benefit in letting your dealership's technicians take apart your interior to try to locate the rattle. Chances are the rattle will not be repaired and you will encounter other problems in the process. My advice is to not let technicians try to repair a rattle - in my experience most of them walk away anyway.. +100
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skylineseason (282hp) | There is a good chance that the gremlins are caused by door seals like those on the E60, dealer applied 3M anti-friction tape has been proven to work although the unsightly tape is clearly visible on dark colored cars and that it is sometimes embarrassing. friends question.
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redsky (601hp) | Our m550d has 1000km and it has an annoying rattle apparently coming from the central dashboard :/ sigh, action recommended?
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12345654 (557hp) | Quote: Originally posted by BestManWins Chances are that squeaky gremlins are caused by door seals like those in the E60. Dealer-applied 3M anti-friction tape has been proven to work even if the unsightly tape is clearly visible in the dark. colored cars and that occasional awkward question from friends. I had this problem with my E60, squeaks that seemed to come from anywhere except the doors, but the service tech put some lube on them and the noises stopped..
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japierdole (919hp) | For people with squeaky seats, I also had squeaky seats when I encountered reading bumps. The dealer replaced the seat base for me and now it's gone.
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141281 (176hp) | Quote: Posted by r3amir I have the same passenger seat that squeaks/rattles when empty. I complained to the dealer about it, but they didn't hear anything. On my next visit I will complain again. Same here. The passenger seat seems to rub against the center console and makes an annoying noise. I put my fingers between the seat and the center console and the noise disappears. Boring.
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kitten6 (247hp) | I had a rattle coming from my passenger seat and it turned out to be the headrest...it has a fore/aft adjustment and it was making noise when driving on uneven roads. I can reach in and push it while driving and it seems to click into a notch and stop shaking for a while. I finally sat in the seat and moved the headrest back and forth and it settled into a position where it didn't vibrate. However, the most annoying noise in my car comes from the driver's side dashboard area. I took apart the air vent, headlight switch, etc. and I still can't find it. I thought there was something loose in the instrument cluster, but now I don't know. I had to go to the dealership twice with no luck. I'm about to take the whole dashboard apart or swap it! Has anyone found any rattles in the driver side dash area!?
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rita_nizhnik_r (222hp) | Quote: Originally posted by LuvMyE92 I had a rattle in my car that was driving me crazy. Coming from the dashboard, the radio, or maybe the console, I thought. No. Trunk. My flashlight bulb in the trunk was banging, but it (the flashlight) was mounted on the parcel shelf and it was clanging and echoing and reverberating so you couldn't get it until for my girlfriend to ride in the back seat while I go around. These cars are acoustic nightmares. I also have a nasty rattle that is actually just the passenger seat belt buckle that sometimes hits the pillar, depending on how the last passenger let the belt retract. I just moved the belt and everything is fine. Check if there is change. Seriously. Wrap the belt in Velcro tape, the soft kind.
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groovy (228hp) | Quote: Posted by AVIMAX Only one squeak for me, the passenger seat squeaks every time I hit a bump. If someone is sitting in the seat, no squeaking, if I apply side pressure to the seat back while driving, no squeaking, then at least I know where it's coming from. I will eventually have to take it to the dealer to have it repaired. Try moving the seat to its stops.
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000789 (81hp) | Quote: Originally posted by black1e I don't know if this only happens to me, but every time I take my car to a dealership with squeaking or rattling issues, the car stops making noise when I test it with a seated technician. next to me. Or they do some sort of thing that makes all the noise go away during test drives. When I come home the clicking or squeaking noises are there. I've been hearing noises somewhere between the glove box and the passenger door, especially when accelerating from first to second, but I'm trying to get used to it rather than thinking about taking the car back to the dealership. Just say your engine is acting weird one day, you want to take a drive to reproduce it. Some service centers are known to use a small speaker that actively emits imperceptible frequencies to cancel out road and interior noise, much like active noise-canceling headphones..
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hamid (14hp) | I had the entire roof removed and a new sunroof cartridge installed because of the noise from the sunroof.
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pimpdaddy2 (668hp) | Quote: Originally posted by black1e I don't know if this only happens to me, but every time I take my car to a dealership with squeaking or rattling issues, the car stops making noise when I test it with a seated technician. next to me. Or they do some sort of thing that makes all the noise go away during test drives. When I come home the clicking or squeaking noises are there. I've been hearing noises somewhere between the glove box and the passenger door, especially when accelerating from first to second, but I'm trying to get used to it rather than thinking about taking the car back to the dealership . It's like the car knows and it's doing it to play with you. Speaking of rattles and squeaks, there's no car worse than a Range Rover. I had a new one for 2 months before it had to go. My 550 is much quieter, but there is a subtle "ticking" sound in the headliner. My family thinks I'm crazy. Maybe they're right.
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securite (50hp) | Quote: Originally posted by AVIMAX Yes, the passenger's seat belt hits the B-pillar. Couldn't they have softened the B-pillar material or done something? This is an oversight. I have to make sure the seat belt rests on the seat bolster, otherwise it bangs against the B-pillar while I'm driving. +1 Quote: Posted by KRUZN335 Finally located the noise!! Glad you found the noise. Much better than having a technician go hunting... As for my F10, it's still just as tense (fingers crossed). On the other hand, my 2009 E70 X5 35d started to squeak like an old Ford Explorer. That's part of why I got rid of it.
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300489 (109hp) | I have been very lucky to have several noiseless BMWs in a row. ((( Knock on plastic wood))).
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030588 (274hp) | Quote: Originally posted by mryakanisachoad I have been very lucky to have several noiseless BMWs in a row. (((Knock on plastic wood))). Your 550i has plastic wood?
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arcenciel (500hp) | Quote: Originally posted by The X Men Does your 550i have plastic wood? Bamboo covered in plastic? Is it bamboo wood?? I thought it was like weed...
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devera (215hp) | congratulations I have the same color and M sport too but 528i I still have 9 days to wait.
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motomoto (600hp) | Congratulations...I also just got my CBM 550 back. I thought all 550's had ceramic controls...
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zhang (696hp) | congratulations I have the same color and M sport too but 528i I still have 9 days to wait.
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charlie22 (775hp) | Congratulations...I also just got my CBM 550 back. I thought all 550's had ceramic controls...
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carlos25 (846hp) | Quote: Posted by rbembas535i Volkswagen should I say anything else...... Then the VW S7 is faster and outperforms your BMW. Can you back up your statement that major parts of the S7 use VW parts? Hmm, is that the engine? No. Is it the platform/chassis? No. Is it the transmission? No. Is it the suspension? No. Is it the Quattro/AWD? No. Volkswagen do I really need to say anything more? Yes, please specify.
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080881 (339hp) | Quote: Originally posted by rbudiman S5 will be slightly cheaper because they don't have the crazy priced ($4,500) B&O sound system. Instead, they only offer a B&O audio system for $850. The B&O system on the S5 is pretty bad, even the $800 premium audio option on the F10 is much better. On the Audi A6, A7 and A8, their B&O system is much better, but at 7 or 8 times the price.
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jordan96 (869hp) | Quote: Originally posted by ToyotaBMW Then the VW S7 is faster and outperforms your BMW. Can you back up your statement that major parts of the S7 use VW parts? Hmm, is that the engine? No. Is it the platform/chassis? No. Is it the transmission? No. Is it the suspension? No. Is it the Quattro/AWD? No. Volkswagen do I really need to say anything more? Yes, please specify. Audi of the future – the sum of VW's parts? Bodywork by SEAT Engine by Skoda Interior by Suzuki Transmission by MAN Suspension by Scania Assembled by Porsche Maintenance by Lamborghini Marketed by Bugatti Fuel economy optimized by Bentley
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1qw23e (637hp) | I finally made a deal and picked up my new 2013 RS5...LOL...I was tempted...haha
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ducati1098 (244hp) | Quote: Originally posted by rbudiman I finally made a deal and picked up my new 2013 RS5...LOL...I was tempted...haha CONGRATULATIONS on the new vehicle !!!!
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spices (143hp) | RS5 is sweet. Well done!
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800001 (32hp) | The RS5 is really nice. It looks a bit like the Cadillac CTS. In fact, they are almost identical.
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220179 (916hp) | Thanks guys, I have to try Audi ..
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ITR (395hp) | Quote: Originally posted by COBodom This statement was very true in the 80s. Today it is just a baseless statement. With the current range, we see that BMW offers better than Audi (and vice versa). It's just a matter of personal preference, brand loyalty, finally being able to display yourself with the BMW tag (still true for many), etc... Some prefer Wagner to Strauss or XMas to Thanksgiving, that doesn't mean that one is better than the other. But it was still the Adolfo company
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ber217an (406hp) | Quote: Posted by OzDriver Audi of the future - the sum of VW's parts? Bodywork by SEAT Engine by Skoda Interior by Suzuki Transmission by MAN Suspension by Scania Assembled by Porsche Maintenance by Lamborghini Marketed by Bugatti Optimized fuel economy by Bentley Just shows that they bought bankrupt companies and the parts are made in Shanghai. Yeah you forgot to mention it....
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q7w8e9 (23hp) | Quote: Originally posted by rbembas535i Just shows that they bought bankrupt companies and the parts are made in Shanghai. Yeah, you forgot to mention it.... Forget it.
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140478 (28hp) | Quote: Originally published by The X Men Give him a rest. ok, that will do
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aeynbr (907hp) | for that kind of money you should look at the 650i and not the series 5
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Aqibsalam (722hp) | Quote: Originally posted by rbudiman I finally made a deal and picked up my new 2013 RS5...LOL...I was tempted...haha Congratulations. Quote: Posted by OzDriver Audi of the future - the sum of VW's parts? Bodywork by SEAT Engine by Skoda Interior by Suzuki Transmission by MAN Suspension by Scania Assembled by Porsche Maintenance by Lamborghini Marketed by Bugatti Fuel economy optimized by Bentley But still no rusty seats like the BMW F30. Really, Audi owners don't mind that VW owns Audi. Just look at this comparison. Because of the sharing of R&D between the VW Group and also the sharing of purchasing between suppliers, Audi has made it possible to create a car that outperforms or matches the performance of the BMW at $20,000 to $30,000 less. I think it's a victory. It could even force BMW to be more competitive on price and possibly move back to become more performance oriented..
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september5 (902hp) | Quote: Originally posted by ToyotaBMW Then the VW S7 is faster and outperforms your BMW. Can you back up your statement that major parts of the S7 use VW parts? Hmm, is that the engine? No. Is it the platform/chassis? No. Is it the transmission? No. Is it the suspension? No. Is it the Quattro/AWD? No. Volkswagen do I really need to say anything more? Yes, please specify. oh wow elaborate, ok, the covette ZR1 smokes this S7
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nowayjose (94hp) | Quote: Posted by rbembas535i oh wow elaborate ok covette ZR1 smokes this S7 What a sports car beating a 4 door sports sedan in performance. Your statement sounds like sour grapes that the Audi beat the BMW in performance for $20-30k less. Statements like yours just let people know Audi is moving in the right direction..
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13011301 (712hp) | Quote: Originally posted by rbembas535i But it was still the Adolfo company
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292tom (268hp) | Quote: Posted by rbembas535i Unfortunately you are wrong again, you are the one comparing an RS5 to a 535i and the RS5 is a coupe. MSRP in the 80k, options not included. That's what this thread is about. The s7 Msrp starts at 80k not counting options with a weak 4.0, a loaded 550i the Msrp is around 71k with a 4.4 engine so wtf..... Are you talking about! When all is said and done, it's still a VW. When you tell someone they are wrong, you need to set your facts straight. First, the OP asked about the S5 and 535i and I asked him to look at the RS5 if he thought the S5 was amazing. I haven't compared it to the 5er anywhere because I know they aren't similar cars, unlike some people who compare a ZR1 to an S7. Second, you obviously can't read. the S7's weak 4.0 has BMW's 650i GC beating it in terms of performance in an article just published on the front page forums. Read the comparison yourself and get back to me. Again, your facts are not accurate. http://www.6post.com/forums/showthread.php?t=797346 Reading the article the only weak thing that seems to be the 5er they talked about should have been forgotten and replaced with the 6 series. LOL You're obviously saying that Audis are VWs and you're just upset that there are better alternatives to BMW. Hitler was right about one thing with VW and the Beetle.
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mobydick (389hp) | Quote: Originally posted by rbembas535i for that kind of money you should be looking at the 650i and not a 5 series Agreed. I love the GC - 4 doors and all wheel drive. My lease 5 ended in November. Really interested in a phev 5 but doubt we'll see it in the US this year.
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21101995 (691hp) | RS5 will be great. Congratulations and enjoy.
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dalopsss (925hp) | I spent less than the $75,000 you're looking at for a 2013 550i xdrive carbon black M sport with Dinan S2 chip, suspension and exhaust. The total package, including the Dinan mods, came to less than $72,000. I was trying to get close to an all-wheel drive M5 - mine doesn't have a dual-clutch transmission and has just a little less power than the M5 - but the all-wheel drive makes up for that. I had looked at an RS5 or S7 but opted for the 550i - no regrets.
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mshab356 (267hp) | Quote: Originally posted by IaHawk I spent less than $75,000 you were looking at for a 2013 550i xdrive carbon black M sport with Dinan S2 chip, suspension and exhaust. The total package, including the Dinan mods, came to less than $72,000. I was trying to get close to an all-wheel drive M5 - mine doesn't have a dual-clutch transmission and has just a little less power than the M5 - but the all-wheel drive makes up for that. I had looked at an RS5 or S7 but opted for the 550i - no regrets. Very well done! I still need rear passenger space and if I was looking for a performance beast this would be a good way to go..
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baseball14 (621hp) | Quote: Posted by rbembas535i Volkswagen should I say anything else...... Then the VW S7 is faster and outperforms your BMW. Can you back up your statement that major parts of the S7 use VW parts? Hmm, is that the engine? No. Is it the platform/chassis? No. Is it the transmission? No. Is it the suspension? No. Is it the Quattro/AWD? No. Volkswagen do I really need to say anything more? Yes, please specify.
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summer24 (733hp) | Quote: Originally posted by rbudiman S5 will be slightly cheaper because they don't have the crazy priced ($4,500) B&O sound system. Instead, they only offer a B&O audio system for $850. The B&O system on the S5 is pretty bad, even the $800 premium audio option on the F10 is much better. On the Audi A6, A7 and A8, their B&O system is much better, but at 7 or 8 times the price.
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mayra (327hp) | Quote: Originally posted by ToyotaBMW Then the VW S7 is faster and outperforms your BMW. Can you back up your statement that major parts of the S7 use VW parts? Hmm, is that the engine? No. Is it the platform/chassis? No. Is it the transmission? No. Is it the suspension? No. Is it the Quattro/AWD? No. Volkswagen do I really need to say anything more? Yes, please specify. Audi of the future – the sum of VW's parts? Bodywork by SEAT Engine by Skoda Interior by Suzuki Transmission by MAN Suspension by Scania Assembled by Porsche Maintenance by Lamborghini Marketed by Bugatti Fuel economy optimized by Bentley
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4grandkids (806hp) | I finally made a deal and picked up my new 2013 RS5...LOL...I was tempted...haha
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allison! (936hp) | Quote: Originally posted by rbudiman I finally made a deal and picked up my new 2013 RS5...LOL...I was tempted...haha CONGRATULATIONS on the new vehicle !!!!
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azerty69 (396hp) | RS5 is sweet. Well done!
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baller8 (115hp) | The RS5 is really nice. It looks a bit like the Cadillac CTS. In fact, they are almost identical.
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aidana (223hp) | Thanks guys, I have to try Audi ..
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mattman (772hp) | Quote: Originally posted by COBodom This statement was very true in the 80s. Today it is just a baseless claim. With the current range, we see that BMW offers better than Audi (and vice versa). It's just a matter of personal preference, brand loyalty, finally being able to display yourself with the BMW tag (still true for many), etc... Some prefer Wagner to Strauss or XMas to Thanksgiving, that doesn't mean that one is better than the other. But it was still the Adolfo company
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180394 (474hp) | Quote: Posted by OzDriver Audi of the future - the sum of VW's parts? Bodywork by SEAT Engine by Skoda Interior by Suzuki Transmission by MAN Suspension by Scania Assembled by Porsche Maintenance by Lamborghini Marketed by Bugatti Optimized fuel economy by Bentley Just shows that they bought bankrupt companies and the parts are made in Shanghai. Yeah you forgot to mention it....
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Jamrockbwoy (972hp) | Quote: Originally posted by rbembas535i Just shows that they bought bankrupt companies and the parts are made in Shanghai. Yeah, you forgot to mention it.... Forget it.
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080786 (678hp) | Quote: Originally published by The X Men Give him a rest. ok, that will do
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zvery777 (853hp) | for that kind of money you should look at the 650i and not the series 5
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cmlee (255hp) | Quote: Originally posted by rbudiman I finally made a deal and picked up my new 2013 RS5...LOL...I was tempted...haha Congratulations. Quote: Posted by OzDriver Audi of the future - the sum of VW's parts? Bodywork by SEAT Engine by Skoda Interior by Suzuki Transmission by MAN Suspension by Scania Assembled by Porsche Maintenance by Lamborghini Marketed by Bugatti Fuel economy optimized by Bentley But still no rusty seats like the BMW F30. Really, Audi owners don't mind that VW owns Audi. Just look at this comparison. Because of sharing R&D within the VW Group and also sharing purchasing between suppliers, Audi has made it possible to create a car that outperforms or matches the performance of the BMW at $20,000 to $30,000 less. I think it's a victory. It could even force BMW to be more competitive on price and possibly move back to become more performance oriented..
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alexng72 (165hp) | Quote: Originally posted by ToyotaBMW Then the VW S7 is faster and outperforms your BMW. Can you back up your statement that major parts of the S7 use VW parts? Hmm, is that the engine? No. Is it the platform/chassis? No. Is it the transmission? No. Is it the suspension? No. Is it the Quattro/AWD? No. Volkswagen do I really need to say anything more? Yes, please specify. oh wow elaborate, ok, the covette ZR1 smokes this S7
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11121987 (916hp) | Quote: Posted by rbembas535i oh wow elaborate ok covette ZR1 smokes this S7 What a sports car beating a 4 door sports sedan in performance. Your statement sounds like sour grapes that the Audi beat the BMW in performance for $20-30k less. Statements like yours just let people know Audi is moving in the right direction..
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red555 (5hp) | Quote: Originally posted by rbembas535i But it was still the Adolfo company
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february2 (871hp) | Quote: Posted by rbembas535i Unfortunately you are wrong again, you are the one comparing an RS5 to a 535i and the RS5 is a coupe. MSRP in the 80k, options not included. That's what this thread is about. The s7 Msrp starts at 80k not counting options with a weak 4.0, a loaded 550i the Msrp is around 71k with a 4.4 engine so wtf..... Are you talking about! When all is said and done, it's still a VW. When you tell someone they are wrong, you need to set your facts straight. First, the OP asked about the S5 and 535i and I asked him to look at the RS5 if he thought the S5 was amazing. I haven't compared it to the 5er anywhere because I know they are not similar cars, unlike some people who compare a ZR1 to an S7. Second, you obviously can't read. the S7's weak 4.0 has BMW's 650i GC beating it in terms of performance in an article just published on the front page forums. Read the comparison yourself and get back to me. Again, your facts are not accurate. http://www.6post.com/forums/showthread.php?t=797346 Reading the article the only weak thing that seems to be the 5er they talked about should have been forgotten and replaced with the 6 series. LOL You're obviously saying that Audis are VWs and you're just upset that there are better alternatives to BMW. Hitler was right with VW and the Beetle.
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paradigma (93hp) | Quote: Originally posted by rbembas535i for that kind of money you should be looking at the 650i and not a 5 series Agreed. I love the GC - 4 doors and all wheel drive. My lease 5 ended in November. Really interested in a phev 5 but doubt we'll see it in the US this year.
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kiki101 (472hp) | RS5 will be great. Congratulations and enjoy.
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ewunia (478hp) | I spent less than the $75,000 you're looking at for a 2013 550i xdrive carbon black M sport with Dinan S2 chip, suspension and exhaust. The total package, including the Dinan mods, came to less than $72,000. I was trying to get close to an all-wheel drive M5 - mine doesn't have a dual-clutch transmission and has just a little less power than the M5 - but the all-wheel drive makes up for that. I had looked at an RS5 or S7 but opted for the 550i - no regrets.
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ghjkju (991hp) | Quote: Originally posted by IaHawk I spent less than $75,000 you were looking at for a 2013 550i xdrive carbon black M sport with Dinan S2 chip, suspension and exhaust. The total package, including the Dinan mods, came to less than $72,000. I was trying to get close to an all-wheel drive M5 - mine doesn't have a dual-clutch transmission and has just a little less power than the M5 - but the all-wheel drive makes up for that. I had looked at an RS5 or S7 but opted for the 550i - no regrets. Very well done! I still need rear passenger space and if I was looking for a performance beast this would be a good way to go..
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alejandro9 (877hp) | so in my wife's car (2012 528xi) - the cup holder lid does not open. I can tell a loose coin got stuck in there, but it's stuck closed. Does anyone have any recommendations on how to open it? I've seen threads with the exact opposite situation - the loose part doesn't let the cup holder close - but this seems much easier to work with. In my case the lid is closed and I'm afraid that if I use more force I'll break the lid completely. Thanks for any help.
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minger (466hp) | I had the exact same problem with my 2011 550i. I think the mechanism is a design weakness. Anyway, I had one replaced under warranty. The second sometimes gets stuck in the closed position. I learned to press the bottom right corner of the lid, not the middle. Try it and see if it works for you.
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diddlina (579hp) | Strong magnet?
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Christian1 (770hp) | Quote: Originally posted by wessew10 I had the same problem with my 2011 550i. I think the mechanism is a design weakness. Anyway, I had one replaced under warranty. The second sometimes gets stuck in the closed position. I learned to press the bottom right corner of the lid, not the middle. Try it and see if it works for you. after about 5 attempts it actually worked when I pressed the bottom rightmost corner really hard - thanks! now for the ashtray, same problem....
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6699 (322hp) | And the lesson here is to only carry collapsible money. You'll need it at the dealership anyway. Thanks for the message. No parts in my car.
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justin03 (57hp) | I put coins in my ashtray but I block the space on the hinge side of the lid with a piece of felt tape so that the coins don't fall in...
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digital (41hp) | so in my wife's car (2012 528xi) - the cup holder lid does not open. I can tell a loose coin got stuck in there, but it's stuck closed. Does anyone have any recommendations on how to open it? I've seen threads with the exact opposite situation - the loose part doesn't let the cup holder close - but this seems much easier to work with. In my case the lid is closed and I'm afraid that if I use more force I'll break the lid completely. Thanks for any help.
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saints11 (854hp) | I had the exact same problem with my 2011 550i. I think the mechanism is a design weakness. Anyway, I had one replaced under warranty. The second sometimes gets stuck in the closed position. I learned to press the bottom right corner of the lid, not the middle. Try it and see if it works for you.
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12091981 (835hp) | Powerful magnet?
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arizona2 (295hp) | Quote: Originally posted by wessew10 I had the same problem with my 2011 550i. I think the mechanism is a design weakness. Anyway, I had one replaced under warranty. The second sometimes gets stuck in the closed position. I learned to press the bottom right corner of the lid, not the middle. Try it and see if it works for you. after about 5 attempts it actually worked when I pressed the bottom rightmost corner really hard - thanks! now for the ashtray, same problem....
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lanyard (994hp) | And the lesson here is to only carry collapsible money. You'll need it at the dealership anyway. Thanks for the message. No parts in my car.
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12ab34cd (522hp) | I put coins in my ashtray but I seal the space on the hinge side of the lid with a piece of felt tape so that the coins don't fall in...
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21111987 (19hp) | Hello friends - to all diesel owners... I'm supposed to receive my new 535D tomorrow (finally) and as this will be my first time owning a diesel (my last 3 Beemers were 4.4 V8s) I'm Was wondering if there were any specific things I should do/be aware of regarding diesel operation. I asked the salesman the same question and he told me that for the first 2,000 km I should just break in the sport automatic transmission to get it in gear and avoid very long highway trips where I just drive at 110 km/h for more than 4 hours at a time (easy to do on OZ roads), in other words, use a variety of speeds (including shorter road trips is OK), which I Also allows you to use the gearbox a little. Otherwise, nothing special is needed to break in diesel components. Does any diesel owner have anything to add to this - I really appreciate your comments.
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singhisking (650hp) | Your seller's advice is pretty good. Your owner's manual should also contain general advice regarding engine break-in. A lot of people don't believe it, but I certainly don't think it hurts and can make a difference in the long run. FWIW I had a 335d (same engine?) and it burned a little oil for the first few thousand miles, then stopped burning oil altogether. The metallurgy is different in diesels. It really takes a long time before the engine is really broken in, I think. I also have a VW TDI diesel sportwagen and the gas mileage has gradually increased about 4 mpg as the engine has loosened up a bit (at 45k miles now) and according to the TDI forum I might see an extra gallon or two increase up to 60,000 miles. mid when the engine can be considered to be broken in.
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Soni (331hp) | Your engine is a beast. Go ahead and enjoy it. Simply power it with quality diesel like Shell V-Power Diesel..
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screwed (920hp) | As others have said, don't beat it for the first 1200 miles and increase your RPM after that. It's in the manual and so I think it's something you should follow. (If BMW says it, do it as they will know the car best as they have built it) M6pwr - you say diesel engines take a long time to run, why is that? Why do they differ from gasoline engines in this respect? Congratulations on the car, I have a 530d and I think the engine is great so the 535d I can only imagine.
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viper7 (186hp) | I'm not an engineer, but as I understand it, a good break-in is very important for brake equipment, transmission and tires. Less for the engine itself. If you beat the rotors for the first 1,000 miles or so, there's a good chance you'll destroy them and possibly warp the rotors. Modern engines do not have the same valve seat and gasket seal issues due to higher engineering tolerances. My information comes from an uncle who has been a mechanical engineer for over 40 years.
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fefefe (768hp) | Drive it normally. It's too powerful so you can ring the grandma all the time and don't be too gentle with the motor, it needs a few good pulses of power when new to seat the rings correctly, you don't You don't need to redline it but with a load on the engine (i.e. uphill or in high gear), open the throttle all the way. This will really loosen up between 15-20,000 miles and the mpg will increase quite a bit at that point..
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timeout1 (725hp) | Based on my many years of experience with diesel engines, "moderation" is the word I would use. But don't go easy on a diesel, they require a bit of work, not to mention high revs, to ensure proper break-in of the rings and avoid glazing of the bores (hence the oil burners). Reasonable and varied driving is the best way I have found to put them to sleep. Do decent runs of 50 to 100 miles (or more), where there is plenty of heat in the engine. The worst case I can think of is many short trips with cold starts for the first 1000 miles. Mpg often improves with mileage, but not always, some engines perform well from day one. But I know that a "tight" VW diesel engine reaches peak mpg at around 80,000 miles. Then a gasoline engine can go 30,000 miles or more to get the best performance and mpg, so it's not just about diesel engines. HighlandPete
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russ (208hp) | Quote: Originally published by AP It's in the manual so I think it's something you should follow. (If BMW says it, do it because they will know the car best the more they have built it) Yeah, they build and drive millions of test miles with them. All advice you receive from our normal car owners is mainly based on personal experience with less than 10 cars without any real knowledge of how the engine was actually affected by how they used the cars..
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arshad (133hp) | Hi. I got mine back last week and believe me, if someone says not to exceed 3000 revs for example for the first 2 or 3 km, it's not possible... the engine is such jewel, just put it on the ground from time to time, it asks for it. LOL. That being said, as someone said earlier, you'd have to be a maniac to constantly push it to the red line. This morning I did a trip of about 100km, cruise control at 140km/h and even uphill the revs did not exceed 1900. Good luck to both of us, LOL.
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afdjhbn (731hp) | yes, the engine revs so low, it really feels effortless. I don't think it's necessary to rotate it much in most conditions. At 70 mph, the 530d spins at 1,500 rpm. Compared to my previous E39 530i which revved to around 2,500 rpm I remember (or thereabouts), I find the diesel seems to promote a more relaxed driving style for me. It certainly doesn't feel fast, but that's probably the sign of a good car that fast speeds aren't like it..
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aenima (442hp) | Quote: Originally posted by HighlandPete My experience over many years with diesel engines, "moderation" is the word I would use. But don't go easy on a diesel, they require a bit of work, not to mention high revs, to ensure proper break-in of the rings and avoid glazing of the bores (hence the oil burners). Reasonable and varied driving is the best way I have found to put them to sleep. Do decent runs of 50 to 100 miles (or more), where there is plenty of heat in the engine. The worst case I can think of is many short trips with cold starts for the first 1000 miles. Mpg often improves with mileage, but not always, some engines perform well from day one. But I know that a "tight" VW diesel engine reaches peak mpg at around 80,000 miles. Then a gasoline engine can go 30,000 miles or more to get the best performance and mpg, so it's not just about diesel engines. HighlandPete The more I read your posts, the more interested I am in turbodiesels as a viable option. Maybe there's just hope for this guy to get a diesel one day. I think I'd like to be one of those guys who keeps a diesel all his life. It would be cool to lose that throw-away mentality. I live in a densely populated area and this engine seems to match my driving parameters perfectly..
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23132313 (714hp) | Quote: Originally posted by mryakanisachoad The more I read your posts, the more interested I am in turbodiesels as a viable option. Maybe there's just hope for this guy to get a diesel one day. I think I'd like to be one if these guys keep one until one of us goes down. I live in a densely populated area and this engine seems to fit my driving parameters perfectly. 2 years ago I had a 530D, I found the engine good, but lacking in excitement. 10 months ago I took delivery of a new 535D (313 hp) and found the engine with its 2 turbos to be exactly what I was looking for... fast, exhilarating, economical and fun. I hope that in the near future you too will have the same.
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mamichula1 (369hp) | Hello friends - to all you diesel owners... I'm supposed to receive my new 535D tomorrow (finally) and as this will be my first time owning a diesel (my last 3 Beemers were 4.4 V8s), I Was wondering if there were any specific things I should do/be aware of regarding diesel operation. I asked the salesman the same question and he told me that for the first 2,000 km I just need to break in the engine. sport automatic transmission to integrate it and avoid very long highway trips where I just drive 70 mph for 4+ hours at a time (easy to do on OZ roads), in other words I uses a variety of speeds (including shorter speeds). car trips are OK), which also allows me to use the gearbox a bit. Otherwise, nothing special is needed to break in diesel components. Does any diesel owner have anything to add to this - I really appreciate your comments.
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freddy (246hp) | Your seller's advice is pretty good. Your owner's manual should also contain general advice regarding engine break-in. A lot of people don't believe it, but I certainly don't think it hurts and can make a difference in the long run. FWIW I had a 335d (same engine?) and it burned a little oil for the first few thousand miles, then stopped burning oil altogether. The metallurgy is different in diesels. It really takes a long time before the engine is really broken in, I think. I also have a VW TDI diesel sportwagen and the gas mileage has gradually increased about 4 mpg as the engine has loosened up a bit (at 45k miles now) and according to the TDI forum I might see an extra gallon or two increase up to 60,000 miles. mid when the engine can be considered to be broken in.
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nirvana! (485hp) | Your engine is a beast. Go ahead and enjoy it. Simply power it with quality diesel like Shell V-Power Diesel..
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chelsea. (879hp) | As others have said, don't beat it for the first 1200 miles and increase your RPM after that. It's in the manual and so I think it's something you should follow. (If BMW says it, do it as they will know the car best as they have built it) M6pwr - you say diesel engines take a long time to run, why is that? Why do they differ from gasoline engines in this respect? Congratulations on the car, I have a 530d and I think the engine is great so the 535d I can only imagine.
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taipei (669hp) | I'm not an engineer, but as I understand it, a good break-in is very important for brake equipment, transmission and tires. Less for the engine itself. If you beat the rotors for the first 1,000 miles or so, there's a good chance you'll destroy them and possibly warp the rotors. Modern engines do not have the same valve seat and gasket seal issues due to higher engineering tolerances. My information comes from an uncle who has been a mechanical engineer for over 40 years.
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sandals (159hp) | Drive it normally. It's too powerful so you can ring the grandma all the time and don't be too gentle with the motor, it needs a few good pulses of power when new to seat the rings correctly, you don't You don't need to redline it but with a load on the engine (i.e. uphill or in high gear), open the throttle all the way. This will really loosen up between 15-20,000 miles and the mpg will increase quite a bit at that point..
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beethoven1 (720hp) | Based on my many years of experience with diesel engines, "moderation" is the word I would use. But don't go easy on a diesel, they require a bit of work, not to mention high revs, to ensure proper break-in of the rings and avoid glazing of the bores (hence the oil burners). Reasonable and varied driving is the best way I have found to put them to sleep. Do decent runs of 50 to 100 miles (or more), where there is plenty of heat in the engine. The worst case I can think of is many short trips with cold starts for the first 1000 miles. Mpg often improves with mileage, but not always, some engines perform well from day one. But I know that a "tight" VW diesel engine reaches peak mpg at around 80,000 miles. Then a gasoline engine can go 30,000 miles or more to get the best performance and mpg, so it's not just about diesel engines. HighlandPete
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11021988 (295hp) | Quote: Originally published by AP It's in the manual so I think it's something you should follow. (If BMW says it, do it because they will know the car best the more they have built it) Yeah, they build and drive millions of test miles with them. All advice you receive from our normal car owners is mainly based on personal experience with less than 10 cars without any real knowledge of how the engine was actually affected by how they used the cars..
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JUVENTUS (630hp) | Hi. I got mine back last week and believe me, if someone says not to exceed 3000 revs for example for the first 2 or 3 km, it's not possible... the engine is such jewel, just put it on the ground from time to time, it asks for it. LOL. That being said, as someone said earlier, you'd have to be a maniac to constantly push it to the red line. This morning I did a trip of about 100km, cruise control at 140km/h and even uphill the revs did not exceed 1900. Good luck to both of us, LOL.
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passes (270hp) | yes, the engine revs so low, it really feels effortless. I don't think it's necessary to rotate it much in most conditions. At 70 mph, the 530d spins at 1,500 rpm. Compared to my previous E39 530i which revved to around 2,500 rpm I remember (or thereabouts), I find the diesel seems to promote a more relaxed driving style for me. It certainly doesn't feel fast, but that's probably the sign of a good car that fast speeds aren't like it..
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trevor10 (350hp) | Quote: Posted by HighlandPete My many years experience with diesel engines, "moderation" is the word I would use. But don't go easy on a diesel, they require a bit of work, not to mention high revs, to ensure proper break-in of the rings and avoid glazing of the bores (hence the oil burners). Reasonable and varied driving is the best way I have found to put them to sleep. Do decent runs of 50 to 100 miles (or more), where there is plenty of heat in the engine. The worst case I can think of is many short trips with cold starts for the first 1000 miles. Mpg often improves with mileage, but not always, some engines perform well from day one. But I know that a "tight" VW diesel engine reaches peak mpg at around 80,000 miles. Then a gasoline engine can go 30,000 miles or more to get the best performance and mpg, so it's not just about diesel engines. HighlandPete The more I read your posts, the more interested I am in turbodiesels as a viable option. Maybe there's just hope for this guy to get a diesel one day. I think I'd like to be one of those guys who keeps a diesel all his life. It would be cool to lose that throw-away mentality. I live in a densely populated area and this engine seems to match my driving parameters perfectly..
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rollinstone157 (197hp) | Quote: Originally posted by mryakanisachoad The more I read your posts, the more interested I am in turbodiesels as a viable option. Maybe there's just hope for this guy to get a diesel one day. I think I'd like to be one if these guys keep one until one of us goes down. I live in a densely populated area and this engine seems to fit my driving parameters perfectly. 2 years ago I had a 530D, I found the engine good, but lacking excitement. 10 months ago I took delivery of a new 535D (313 hp) and found the engine with its 2 turbos to be exactly what I was looking for... fast, exhilarating, economical and fun.. I hope that in the near future you too will have the same.
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yoville (239hp) | Hey guys, I was wondering if anyone could tell me the difference between changing the EDC to sports+ and just moving the shifter to sport mode. For me, the car seems a little faster when I put it in Sports+ mode, but I don't know if that's really true. Could possibly upgrade to coilovers which I assume remove the EDC control. So just curious about Sports+ mode and what I might lose.
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dookie (638hp) | Do a search...thousands of discussions on this topic!
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120693 (646hp) | Hey guys, I was wondering if anyone could tell me the difference between changing the EDC to sports+ and just moving the shifter to sport mode. For me, the car seems a little faster when I put it in Sports+ mode, but I don't know if that's really true. Could possibly upgrade to coilovers which I assume remove the EDC control. So just curious about Sports+ mode and what I might lose.
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lovingme (768hp) | Do a search...thousands of discussions on this subject!
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mlhj83 (180hp) | Has anyone installed the M5 kidney grilles on their 550i? Do they just slide in and out like my 2011 BMW 335i or do you have to remove the trim items under the hood ??
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dadealus (472hp) | Voilà : http://f10.5post.com/forums/showthread.php?t=422572
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gods (469hp) | Once mine was done, I followed the procedure posted here. I couldn't get them off. I had also read that when the engine is hot, just remove them. I tried it and it worked wonderfully. Avoid having to remove screws or moldings. All you have to do is grab the slats and each side and pull/tighten the racks. Don't be gentle and don't worry about breaking anything. They are going to come out.
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munira (747hp) | That's what I thought. I didn't see any reason to remove any hardware or screws when all you had to do was remove them. This is how I removed the ones from my 2011 335i. They simply went in and out. Thanks for the advice.
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03071994 (417hp) | It took me about 20 seconds per side to replace the 535i style (chrome frame with chrome slats) on my Black Sapphire Metallic vehicle with the OEM M5 style (chrome frame with gloss black slats). Although I liked the stock grilles, I found the M5 style more subdued in appearance with the dark color of my vehicle. Since my vehicle is equipped with a clear front bra on all painted surfaces, I did not hesitate to proceed by inserting my fingers into and behind the slats on either side of the grille applying steady pressure and thumb on the covered painted surfaces surrounding the grilles. starting at the top and releasing a few clips at a time, removing the grates. The replacement grilles slide in and snap into place quite easily. Thanks to the DIYers on this forum and others who came before me and gave me the courage to try this replacement method. See a happy face and one of my thumbs, facing up, below:
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02031976 (683hp) | Yes, I tried and it worked perfectly and as you said in less than a minute. THANKS.
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120496 (860hp) | Has anyone installed the M5 kidney grilles on their 550i? Do they just slide in and out like my 2011 BMW 335i or do you have to remove the trim items under the hood ??
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carebear12 (494hp) | Voilà : http://f10.5post.com/forums/showthread.php?t=422572
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qwertyuiop123456 (71hp) | Once mine was done, I followed the procedure posted here. I couldn't get them off. I had also read that when the engine is hot, just remove them. I tried it and it worked wonderfully. Avoid having to remove screws or moldings. All you have to do is grab the slats and each side and pull/tighten the racks. Don't be gentle and don't worry about breaking anything. They are going to come out.
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steven88 (774hp) | That's what I thought. I saw no reason to remove any hardware or screws when all you had to do was remove them. This is how I removed the ones from my 2011 335i. They simply went in and out. Thanks for the advice.
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fucku123 (675hp) | It took me about 20 seconds per side to replace the 535i style (chrome frame with chrome slats) on my Black Sapphire Metallic vehicle with the OEM M5 style (chrome frame with gloss black slats). Although I liked the stock grilles, I found the M5 style more subdued in appearance with the dark color of my vehicle. Since my vehicle is equipped with a clear front bra on all painted surfaces, I did not hesitate to proceed by inserting my fingers into and behind the slats on either side of the grille applying steady pressure and thumb on the covered painted surfaces surrounding the grilles. starting at the top and releasing a few clips at a time, removing the grates. The replacement grilles slide in and snap into place quite easily. Thanks to the DIYers on this forum and others who came before me and gave me the courage to try this replacement method. See a happy face and one of my thumbs, facing up, below:
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mary22 (872hp) | Yes I tried and it worked perfectly and like you said in less than a minute or so. THANKS.
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hendrix (51hp) | This is probably wishful thinking, but I just put 2000 miles on my 535i 6MT and the car feels faster than when I first bought it. Maybe it's 20 degree weather...
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aaronc (141hp) | Hey guys, has anyone ever installed the 3D Design diffuser on a non-M5? I assume it's the same fit as the M5 diffuser on the M-sport bumper - I wonder if anyone has tried that. I prefer this look to the Vorsteiner version – I think the lines are cleaner. Thoughts? It's here
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