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| yamaha11 (379hp) | Okay guys, I need some guidance here. My 535i has an extremely rough idle on the first cold start. So bad that sometimes it shuts down. The engine literally stalls and shuts down. In other cases, the RPM drops so low that the car almost shuts off, but somehow the car revs up to the point where it no longer shuts off. When driving the car is fine, there could be a performance problem but I don't have anything to compare it to. If you accelerate in first gear, you have to slowly accelerate more to be able to drive off. (This might just require a throttle reset) I get 3 codes. 2 are related to the O2 sensor because I have straight pipes but no tune. The main problem is the MAF sensor code which could be the reason for the shutdown and irregular idling. Code: P00BD. I have attached a picture to the description. Will it be worth purchasing a STAGE 2 tune if the ECU regulates the fuel-air mixture ratio in the cylinders, or is this a different problem? Thanks guys.
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| Butterfly (137hp) | I can't confirm the voting question, but I can provide some insight into difficult cold start problems that have worked for others and myself. N55 engine, cold starts only Symptom: The initial speed drops to about 500 rpm, followed by a corrective increase to about 2,000 rpm and then again to about 1,100 rpm, where the car lasts the 42 seconds Routine of blowing out the catalytic converters and driving slowly continues back to idle speed (~700). Months ago my 15 foot 535i started doing this every now and then. Then at some point an incident occurred with every cold start. Twice the initial drop in RPM caused the engine to stall and I had to restart. There are quite a few posts on this topic with many different opinions on the causes (spark plugs, ignition coils, injectors, software, etc.). Here is a very simple DIY that worked for me and a few others (that I learned from). Solution: When cold, disconnect the MAF sensor. Start the engine cold and let it idle for about 5 minutes (for me it was 10 minutes). Stop engine and reconnect MAF sensor. I did this about 5 months ago and haven't had a single startup fluctuation since then. (I also cleaned the MAF sensor with CRC spray but it really showed no signs of deposits). I'm not saying this will work in OP's case, but it's worth a try. Since the OP is already showing a MAF code, there may be something else going on. It's worth cleaning and reconnecting. Also clean the pins on the connector. And again, in the OP's case, it may be related to the melody. This is just my experience with a stock N55. Good luck!
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| 329210b (196hp) | Thank you very much brother, I will try to tell you 👍,
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| rpm (196hp) | Quote: Originally posted by Khan535i Thanks a lot bro, I'll try to let you know 👍, You're welcome and please do (@ post back). I've never been able to get a 100% clear answer as to why this works for some. I can only assume there is some sort of software reset adjustment. Make sure you try it during a cold boot (and not later in the day). I'm not sure it matters, but it's better to be on the conservative side. I hope it's that simple for you, but the error code makes me think you may have something more going on (e.g. possibly a bad MAF sensor). For me and others, this small startup error would never trigger any code. I'll keep a good thought for you!
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| bulldawg (277hp) | Okay guys, I need some guidance here. My 535i has an extremely rough idle on the first cold start. So bad that sometimes it shuts down. The engine literally stalls and shuts down. In other cases, the RPM drops so low that the car almost shuts off, but somehow the car revs up to the point where it no longer shuts off. When driving the car is fine, there could be a performance problem but I don't have anything to compare it to. If you accelerate in first gear, you have to slowly accelerate more to be able to drive off. (This might just require a throttle reset) I get 3 codes. 2 are related to the O2 sensor because I have straight pipes but no tune. The main problem is the MAF sensor code which could be the reason for the shutdown and irregular idling. Code: P00BD. I have attached a picture to the description. Will it be worth purchasing a STAGE 2 tune if the ECU regulates the fuel-air mixture ratio in the cylinders, or is this a different problem? Thanks guys.
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| bryant8 (613hp) | I can't confirm the voting question, but I can provide some insight into difficult cold start problems that have worked for others and myself. N55 engine, cold starts only Symptom: The initial speed drops to about 500 rpm, followed by a corrective increase to about 2,000 rpm and then again to about 1,100 rpm, where the car lasts the 42 seconds Routine of blowing out the catalytic converters and driving slowly continues back to idle speed (~700). Months ago my 15 foot 535i started doing this every now and then. Then at some point an incident occurred with every cold start. Twice the initial drop in RPM caused the engine to stall and I had to restart. There are quite a few posts on this topic with many different opinions on the causes (spark plugs, ignition coils, injectors, software, etc.). Here is a very simple DIY that worked for me and a few others (that I learned from). Solution: When cold, disconnect the MAF sensor. Start the engine cold and let it idle for about 5 minutes (for me it was 10 minutes). Stop engine and reconnect MAF sensor. I did this about 5 months ago and haven't had a single startup fluctuation since then. (I also cleaned the MAF sensor with CRC spray but it really showed no signs of deposits). I'm not saying this will work in OP's case, but it's worth a try. Since the OP is already showing a MAF code, there may be something else going on. It's worth cleaning and reconnecting. Also clean the pins on the connector. And again, in the OP's case, it may be related to the melody. This is just my experience with a stock N55. Good luck!
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| marshmallow (86hp) | Thank you very much brother, I will try to tell you 👍,
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| lacrosse2 (254hp) | Quote: Originally posted by Khan535i Thanks a lot bro, I'll try to let you know 👍, You're welcome and please do (@ post back). I've never been able to get a 100% clear answer as to why this works for some. I can only assume there is some sort of software reset adjustment. Make sure you try it during a cold boot (and not later in the day). I'm not sure it matters, but it's better to be on the conservative side. I hope it's that simple for you, but the error code makes me think you may have something more going on (e.g. possibly a bad MAF sensor). For me and others, this small startup error would never trigger any code. I'll keep a good thought for you!
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| cvbn123 (664hp) | I asked a question about the alignment of the MAF sensors not long ago. I have since gotten my tools back and changed sides. Before I elaborate or anything, I just want to clarify. The front of the sensor as shown in the picture. This should face the air coming from the end of the filter?
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| cyrus (791hp) | In my opinion the opening should face downwards.
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| alexande (768hp) | I asked a question about the alignment of the MAF sensors not long ago. I have since gotten my tools back and changed sides. Before I elaborate or anything, I just want to clarify. The front of the sensor as shown in the picture. This should face the air coming from the end of the filter?
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| loveya! (18hp) | In my opinion the opening should face downwards.
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| newholland (174hp) | I don't want to be a pest, but if you could also send me a link that would be greatly appreciated.
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| ser123456 (986hp) | Quote: Originally posted by F10prodigy. I don't want to be a pest, but if you could also send me a link that would be greatly appreciated. Sent!
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| hotrod12 (510hp) | Can you also help me get ISTA??
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| 240179 (28hp) | Quote: Originally posted by sredwine Can you also help me get ISTA? Sent!
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| maggie5 (572hp) | https://drive.google.com/drive/mobil...fdxvqCjCec3DwI'm enjoying it folks, it's the original, license included.
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| PhamBamF10 (389hp) | Hello, can I get a link for ISTA? I need a lot of help right now
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| monkeys13 (150hp) | Same here, there are issues getting these gdrive versions (won't complete or resume)
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| florida! (449hp) | Hello, could I have the download files for Ista please? I plan to service my car myself and need the tool to bleed the fuel system after replacing the fuel filter.
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| smoking (247hp) | Could I get the link please buddy?
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| 2223 (432hp) | Sent! Anyone who asked should PM me.
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| saints09 (711hp) | Hello SWFLf10, can you please send me the link to download? Thanks in advance.
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| falcon3 (355hp) | Quote: Originally posted by ph0ngvu Hello SWFLf10, can you ping me the download link? Thanks in advance. Naturally. Sent.
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| gulnaz (553hp) | Quote: Originally posted by SWFLf10 Of course. Sent. Thanks again.
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| brutus (92hp) | Please link so I can get this POS 528i xdrive working lol
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| vivivi (817hp) | Could someone send me the link via DM??
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| star1 (821hp) | Quote: Originally posted by Billt Link please so I can get this POS 528i xdrive working lol Quote: Originally posted by evanover Could someone DM me the link? Sent!
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| kaliman (866hp) | Hello SWFLf10 – if you get the chance, you can send me the download link via DM
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| pakistani (309hp) | Quote: Originally posted by cita85 Hello SWFLf10 - at any opportunity you can DM me the download link for Sent
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| 0401 (41hp) | Hello, can someone help me solve the connection problem I have with Ista P? I had no problems with Ista+, but the Ista P setup is completely different. I have followed all the setup instructions, but when I try to start a new session I still get the attached error message. On the first loading screen I see my car's VIN and IP address. So I know the connection is there, but I set something up wrong. Any help would be greatly appreciated.
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| 11001001 (890hp) | I also hate being a nuisance. Is there any chance I can get help with Ista? Thanks in advance.
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| gorodok (134hp) | Quote: Originally posted by MasterZ I hate being a nuisance too. Is there any chance I can get help with Ista? Thanks in advance. No worries. Sent!
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| swimming12 (427hp) | Can someone tell me once and for all which cable to use with ISTA from a regular Windows laptop? Thanks.
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| 210579 (276hp) | I don't want to be a pest, but if you could also send me a link that would be greatly appreciated.
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| hiphop23 (928hp) | Quote: Originally posted by F10prodigy. I don't want to be a pest, but if you could also send me a link that would be greatly appreciated. Sent!
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| iloveboys! (471hp) | Can you also help me get ISTA??
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| pintoo (208hp) | Quote: Originally posted by sredwine Can you also help me get ISTA? Sent!
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| mamamary (614hp) | https://drive.google.com/drive/mobil...fdxvqCjCec3DwI'm enjoying it folks, it's the original, license included.
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| sorry123 (115hp) | Hello, can I get a link for ISTA? I need a lot of help right now
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| flubber1 (854hp) | Same here, there are issues getting these gdrive versions (won't complete or resume)
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| potatoe1 (109hp) | Hello, could I have the download files for Ista please? I plan to service my car myself and need the tool to bleed the fuel system after replacing the fuel filter.
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| dongdong (574hp) | Could I get the link please buddy?
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| football86 (368hp) | Sent! Anyone who asked should PM me.
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| gfgjxrf (611hp) | Hello SWFLf10, can you please send me the link to download? Thanks in advance.
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| 010577 (646hp) | Quote: Originally posted by ph0ngvu Hello SWFLf10, can you ping me the download link? Thanks in advance. Naturally. Sent.
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| rawr11 (227hp) | Quote: Originally posted by SWFLf10 Of course. Sent. Thanks again.
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| marc (564hp) | Please link so I can get this POS 528i xdrive working lol
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| isabella7 (545hp) | Could someone send me the link via DM??
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| sal (916hp) | Quote: Originally posted by Billt Link please so I can get this POS 528i xdrive working lol Quote: Originally posted by evanover Could someone DM me the link? Sent!
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| 20101996 (705hp) | Hello SWFLf10 – if you get the chance, you can send me the download link via DM
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| 11111m (977hp) | Quote: Originally posted by cita85 Hello SWFLf10 - at any opportunity you can send me the download link for Sent via DM
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| tender1 (81hp) | Hello, can someone help me solve the connection problem I have with Ista P? I had no problems with Ista+, but the Ista P setup is completely different. I have followed all the setup instructions, but when I try to start a new session I still get the attached error message. On the first loading screen I see my car's VIN and IP address. So I know the connection is there, but I set something up wrong. Any help would be greatly appreciated.
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| winnie123 (464hp) | I also hate being a nuisance. Is there any chance I can get help with Ista? Thanks in advance.
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| 240478 (222hp) | Quote: Originally posted by MasterZ I hate being a nuisance too. Is there any chance I can get help with Ista? Thanks in advance. No worries. Sent!
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| the1andonl (789hp) | Can someone tell me once and for all which cable to use with ISTA from a regular Windows laptop? Thanks.
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| squirtle (18hp) | What's going on, from what I've seen, Hoa probably has the highest mile F10 n55 that I know of, around 340,000 miles, which is great!! But is there anyone else rocking a high-mile F10? Post What maintenance did you have to do to get this far and at what mileage did you do it? How long have you owned it? What year was it built? Just recently I saw this 290,000 mile F10 for sale at Auto Gurus and it occurred to me how many high mile F10s there are left! https://www.cargurus.com/Cars/invent...6/NONE/DEFAULT would like to see a put together comprehensive thread for the higher mileage F10 and what the cost was to get it to 100k, 200k , 300,000 km, and if someone makes it to 500,000 miles that would be pretty nice to see!! This could be a valuable place to see what everyone has had to replace, and at what times and at what cost did you DIY? Dealer? or indy shop? Post them!! I look forward to seeing where everyone is at.
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| trivettx (827hp) | 2014 535I. Base/ZF8, RWD. 173,000 miles. The engine mounts were replaced and the transmission was serviced over the summer after road debris ripped a hole in the bottom of the transmission pan. Aside from those two things, the only other repairs were minor: the lower passenger push arm and the washer fluid reservoir pump. And of course the plastic charging pipe, the water hose flange and a new part of the handle on the inside of the driver's door (soft rubber crumbles and so on). Typical maintenance like fluid changes, plugs and coils, etc. My water pump and T-stat are probably due soon. I don't have any real leaks. Stage 1 BM3 tuning with intake. Runs perfectly. I've had a few Blizzaks here in CO over the winter and I've never had a problem. I owned it for 3.5 years and purchased it in Texas with 119,000 miles.
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| 040484 (877hp) | Great thread topic! I've only put 83,000 miles on my (F10) so I'll post the history when I get to 100,000. The link for the 2011 535i for sale made me shake my head and smile a little. 290,000 miles / 3 accidents / 4 owners: Asking price: $10,999 ($10,360 above market value).)
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| jakarta1 (553hp) | Great thread! I just hit 105,000,000 miles and mainly Autobahn, NGK spark plugs and Dinan coil packs are holding up very well after two long trips and over 4,000 miles! (Replaced them at about 100,000 miles) Renewed all pads (wear sensor tripped and that was the only thing that needed replacing) (rear sensor) and ended up replacing all pads and both wear sensors (about 22,000 miles on previous one). (set of pads) Oil is due and not just engine oil, I've been holding off on servicing the transmission fluid, oil pan and differential because I'm very busy. Have a pump, tools and the fluid change adapter ready. I'm really happy that it's finally happening this weekend! - Belt tensioner and pulley replaced and VTT crank protector at 101,000. Things I keep a close eye on: valve covers, oil cooler and OFHG, and oil pan. The water pump runs like a champ so I'm monitoring that with Bimmerlink, planning a coolant flush and want to stay true to my 2016 and purchase an OEM all metal WP with Tstat next on my to do list. Only 91 Shell Vpower have been rated religiously and when I'm somewhere else it's Chevron Premium.
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| r6a50de3ujwtog4 (378hp) | 2012 Xdrive 535i 157,952 miles Typical maintenance only, valve cover due to PCV, oil change, transmission oil, transfer case oil and differential oil. Had a crack in the driver axle boot and had to replace the axle. Being an idiot and playing around with Xdelete caused a rear axle to break off. It has some bumps and bruises and makes occasional noises, but so far it has been very reliable and a lot of fun. MHD Stage 2, XHP Stage 3, Xdelete active, VRSF charge pipe, Catless downpipe and fully open exhaust
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| yellow44 (583hp) | My 2011 535xi currently has 147k but will probably be over 150k after the weekend. Drove 111,000 last October, so racked up miles quickly.
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| micheal3 (526hp) | What's going on, from what I've seen, Hoa probably has the highest mile F10 n55 that I know of, around 340,000 miles, which is great!! But is there anyone else rocking a high-mile F10? Post What maintenance did you have to do to get this far and at what mileage did you do it? How long have you owned it? What year was it built? Just recently I saw this 290,000 mile F10 for sale at Auto Gurus and it occurred to me how many high mile F10s there are left! https://www.cargurus.com/Cars/invent...6/NONE/DEFAULT would like to see a put together comprehensive thread for the higher mileage F10 and what the cost was to get it to 100k, 200k , 300,000 km, and if someone makes it to 500,000 miles that would be pretty nice to see!! This could be a valuable place to see what everyone has had to replace, and at what times and at what cost did you DIY? Dealer? or indy shop? Post them!! I look forward to seeing where everyone is at.
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| football68 (58hp) | 2014 535I. Base/ZF8, RWD. 173,000 miles. The engine mounts were replaced and the transmission was serviced over the summer after road debris ripped a hole in the bottom of the transmission pan. Aside from those two things, the only other repairs were minor: the lower passenger push arm and the washer fluid reservoir pump. And of course the plastic charging pipe, the water hose flange and a new part of the handle on the inside of the driver's door (soft rubber crumbles and so on). Typical maintenance like fluid changes, plugs and coils, etc. My water pump and T-stat are probably due soon. I don't have any real leaks. Stage 1 BM3 tuning with intake. Runs perfectly. I've had a few Blizzaks here in CO over the winter and I've never had a problem. I owned it for 3.5 years and purchased it in Texas with 119,000 miles.
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| whatnow (679hp) | Great thread topic! I've only put 83,000 miles on my (F10) so I'll post the history when I get to 100,000. The link for the 2011 535i for sale made me shake my head and smile a little. 290,000 miles / 3 accidents / 4 owners: Asking price: $10,999 ($10,360 above market value).)
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| vbkbwbz (177hp) | Great thread! I just hit 105,000,000 miles and mainly Autobahn, NGK spark plugs and Dinan coil packs are holding up very well after two long trips and over 4,000 miles! (Replaced them at about 100,000 miles) Renewed all pads (wear sensor tripped and that was the only thing that needed replacing) (rear sensor) and ended up replacing all pads and both wear sensors (about 22,000 miles on previous one). (set of pads) Oil is due and not just engine oil, I've been holding off on servicing the transmission fluid, oil pan and differential because I'm very busy. Have a pump, tools and the fluid change adapter ready. I'm really happy that it's finally happening this weekend! - Belt tensioner and pulley replaced and VTT crank protector at 101,000. Things I keep a close eye on: valve covers, oil cooler and OFHG, and oil pan. The water pump runs like a champ so I'm monitoring that with Bimmerlink, planning a coolant flush and want to stay true to my 2016 and purchase an OEM all metal WP with Tstat next on my to do list. Only 91 Shell Vpower have been rated religiously and when I'm somewhere else it's Chevron Premium.
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| arellano (766hp) | 2012 Xdrive 535i 157,952 miles Typical maintenance only, valve cover due to PCV, oil change, transmission oil, transfer case oil and differential oil. Had a crack in the driver axle boot and had to replace the axle. Being an idiot and playing around with Xdelete caused a rear axle to break off. It has some bumps and bruises and makes occasional noises, but so far it has been very reliable and a lot of fun. MHD Stage 2, XHP Stage 3, Xdelete active, VRSF charge pipe, Catless downpipe and fully open exhaust
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| tianna1 (396hp) | My 2011 535xi currently has 147k but will probably be over 150k after the weekend. Drove 111,000 last October, so racked up miles quickly.
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| 03081990 (906hp) | I just bought the car, in terms of driving assistance it has a HUD and active cruise control + Stop&Go. Does the presence of one of these systems and their hardware allow other features such as speed sign monitoring to be easily turned on? Is there anything else I can activate via e-sys? Options list: S0575 Additional 12 V sockets S05DF Active cruise control + Stop&Go function S0609 Navigation system Professional S0610 Head-up display S0612 BMW Assist S0614 Internet preparation S0615 Extended BMW online information S0616 BMW Online S0620 Voice control S0633 Mobile phone preparation for business S0677 HiFi system Professional DSP S0698 Area code 2 for DVD S06AA BMW Teleservices S06AB Control, Teleservices S06FL USB/Audio interface S06VC Control, Combox S0735 Basic package S07SP Navi Professional/m. -ph.prep. Bluetooth S0801 Country version Germany S0851 Language version German S0863 Dealer list Europe S0879 On-board literature, German S08KA Oil service interval 24 months / 30,000 km S08SC Telematics access request, country-specific. S08TF Active pedestrian protection S08TL Dummy SALAPA S08TN Daytime running lights adjustable via light menu S08V1 Information sign S09BD Business package S0575 Additional 12V sockets S05DF Active cruise control + Stop&Go function S0609 Navigation system Professional S0610 Head-up display S0612 BMW Assist S0614 Internet preparation S0615 Advanced BMW Online information S0616 BMW Online S0620 Voice control S0633 Preparation, mobile phone, business S0677 HiFi system Professional DSP S0698 Area code 2 for DVD S06AA BMW Teleservices S06AB control, Teleservices S06FL USB/audio interface S06VC control, combox S0735 basic package S07SP Navi specialist /m. -ph.prep. Bluetooth S0801 Country version Germany S0851 Language version German S0863 Dealer list Europe S0879 On-board literature, German S08KA Oil service interval 24 months / 30,000 km S08SC Telematics access request, country-specific. S08TF Active pedestrian protection S08TL Dummy SALAPA S08TN Daytime running lights adjustable via light menu S08V1 Information sign S09BD Business package
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| energizer1 (103hp) | You can add 8th place for SLI
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| adivina (555hp) | Quote: Originally written by Hoa. You can add 8TH for SLI. Just plug it in and get started? Does it share the camera with the systems I already have??
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| smokey09 (211hp) | Quote: Originally written by sjed Just plug and play? Does it share the camera with the systems I already have? Yes, that's easy. For others, FSC certificates are required. It uses data from your navigation map and updates the speed when it detects a traffic sign from the camera if it deviates from it.
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| 199125 (642hp) | Quote: Originally posted by Hoa Yes, that's easy. For others, FSC certificates are required. It uses data from your navigation map and updates the speed when it detects a traffic sign from the camera if it deviates from it. Great, thanks for the help. I just need to learn how to edit the VO. I'm used to NCSexperr, but have never used esys.
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| iloveyouja (557hp) | Quote: Originally posted by Hoa Yes, that's easy. For others, FSC certificates are required. It uses data from your navigation map and updates the speed when it detects a traffic sign from the camera if it deviates from it. Hoa, I just checked my ECUs before I started adjusting VO and coding. I don't see any Kafas there. Can you confirm that I actually equipped the Kafas camera??
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| J-Pizzle (306hp) | Quote: Originally written by sjed Hoa I just checked my ECUs before I started adjusting VO and coding. I don't see any Kafas there. Can you confirm that I actually equipped the Kafas camera? No, you don't have KAFAS. SLI is only possible if you purchase an emulator. So your vehicle has ACC with TJA but no KAFAS? That's rare. Most vehicles I have seen with ACC also have KAFAS
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| 290787 (178hp) | Quote: Originally posted by Hoa No, you don't have KAFAS. SLI is only possible if you purchase an emulator. So your vehicle has ACC with TJA but no KAFAS? That's rare. Most vehicles I have seen with ACC also have KAFAS. Yes, interesting... as far as I know, ACC works with a radar unit. I have to say that the first owner was a bit strange in terms of taste. I leave it as it is, many apps show me the permitted speed. It would have just been nice to get a more complete HUD.
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| Breadhead (857hp) | Have you noticed any interesting software changes for your car? By the way, I also have the same thing with my car when it comes to the Kafas etc..
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| 1472583691 (428hp) | Quote: Originally written by Dutchcoma. Have you found any interesting software changes for your car? By the way, I also got the same thing with my car as far as the Kafas etc. are concerned. No, but I haven't really spent much time on it since then.
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| feelings (909hp) | I just bought the car, in terms of driving assistance it has a HUD and active cruise control + Stop&Go. Does the presence of one of these systems and their hardware allow other features such as speed sign monitoring to be easily turned on? Is there anything else I can activate via e-sys? Options list: S0575 Additional 12 V sockets S05DF Active cruise control + Stop&Go function S0609 Navigation system Professional S0610 Head-up display S0612 BMW Assist S0614 Internet preparation S0615 Extended BMW online information S0616 BMW Online S0620 Voice control S0633 Mobile phone preparation for business S0677 HiFi system Professional DSP S0698 Area code 2 for DVD S06AA BMW Teleservices S06AB Control, Teleservices S06FL USB/Audio interface S06VC Control, Combox S0735 Basic package S07SP Navi Professional/m. -ph.prep. Bluetooth S0801 Country version Germany S0851 Language version German S0863 Dealer list Europe S0879 On-board literature, German S08KA Oil service interval 24 months / 30,000 km S08SC Telematics access request, country-specific. S08TF Active pedestrian protection S08TL Dummy SALAPA S08TN Daytime running lights adjustable via light menu S08V1 Information sign S09BD Business package S0575 Additional 12V sockets S05DF Active cruise control + Stop&Go function S0609 Navigation system Professional S0610 Head-up display S0612 BMW Assist S0614 Internet preparation S0615 Extended BMW online information S0 616 BMW Online S0620 Voice control S0633 Preparation, mobile phone, business S0677 HiFi system Professional DSP S0698 Area code 2 for DVD S06AA BMW Teleservices S06AB Control, Teleservices S06FL USB/Audio interface S06VC Control, Combox S0735 Basic package S07SP Navi specialist/m. -ph.prep. Bluetooth S0801 Country version Germany S0851 Language version German S0863 Dealer list Europe S0879 On-board literature, German S08KA Oil service interval 24 months / 30,000 km S08SC Telematics access request, country-specific. S08TF Active pedestrian protection S08TL Dummy SALAPA S08TN Daytime running lights adjustable via light menu S08V1 Information sign S09BD Business package
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| fuckthis2 (247hp) | You can add 8th place for SLI
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| mamasboy (783hp) | Quote: Originally written by Hoa. You can add 8TH for SLI. Just plug it in and get started? Does it share the camera with the systems I already have??
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| cnuno (916hp) | Quote: Originally written by sjed Just plug and play? Does it share the camera with the systems I already have? Yes, that's easy. For others, FSC certificates are required. It uses data from your navigation map and updates the speed when it detects a traffic sign from the camera if it deviates from it.
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| danielle07 (170hp) | Quote: Originally posted by Hoa Yes, that's easy. For others, FSC certificates are required. It uses data from your navigation map and updates the speed when it detects a traffic sign from the camera if it deviates from it. Great, thanks for the help. I just need to learn how to edit the VO. I'm used to NCSexperr, but have never used esys.
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| fishlips (682hp) | Quote: Originally posted by Hoa Yes, that's easy. For others, FSC certificates are required. It uses data from your navigation map and updates the speed when it detects a traffic sign from the camera if it deviates from it. Hoa, I just checked my ECUs before I started adjusting VO and coding. I don't see any Kafas there. Can you confirm that I actually equipped the Kafas camera??
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| 226226 (18hp) | Quote: Originally written by sjed Hoa I just checked my ECUs before I started adjusting VO and coding. I don't see any Kafas there. Can you confirm that I actually equipped the Kafas camera? No, you don't have KAFAS. SLI is only possible if you purchase an emulator. So your vehicle has ACC with TJA but no KAFAS? That's rare. Most vehicles I have seen with ACC also have KAFAS
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| 241097 (345hp) | Quote: Originally posted by Hoa No, you don't have KAFAS. SLI is only possible if you purchase an emulator. So your vehicle has ACC with TJA but no KAFAS? That's rare. Most vehicles I have seen with ACC also have KAFAS. Yes, interesting... as far as I know, ACC works with a radar unit. I have to say that the first owner was a bit strange in terms of taste. I leave it as it is, many apps show me the permitted speed. It would have just been nice to get a more complete HUD.
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| hummerh3 (326hp) | Have you noticed any interesting software changes for your car? By the way, I also have the same thing with my car when it comes to the Kafas etc..
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| north123 (946hp) | Quote: Originally written by Dutchcoma. Have you found any interesting software changes for your car? By the way, I also got the same thing with my car as far as the Kafas etc. are concerned. No, but I haven't really spent much time on it since then.
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| invaderzim (853hp) | Hello everyone. Thank you to everyone who has information in advance. I have a 2015 535i F10 LCI and the leather on my dashboard is starting to peel. I'm thinking about simply replacing the entire dash and have found a 2012 M5 F10 (non-LCI) dash at a reasonable price that I would like to purchase. It has the hole for the HUD. It only has the button for the HUD and doesn't have the lane departure warning, BSM etc but I think I can swap that out from my original dash. Does anyone know if all F10 dashboards are the same? Will this M5 Non-LCI dashboard fit my 535i F10 LCI? Thank you everyone. PS: I'm also open to other options if anyone has them. NOTE: I am from Sydney, Australia. If anyone knows a place that can replace/repair the leather?
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| 010907 (160hp) | You can use an online parts database such as www.realoem.com to determine which other BMW models use the same parts as your BMW...as well as any replaced or terminated part numbers that are actively or retroactively interchangeable. Simply enter the last 7 digits of your VIN, then go to the dashboard diagrams (probably VEHICLE TRIM)...then click on the correct 11 digit BMW part number that would be correct for your BMW. You should then see a list of other BMW models that use the same part number. Check the additional column again if there are exclusions for different option codes or other features, etc. F10 vs F90 dashboard:
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| 030994 (254hp) | Ok, darling... thanks a lot, buddy, I'll take a look at it now. Cheers
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| high (650hp) | Hey buddy, Realoem.com is great. I figured out which dashboard fits my car. Unfortunately the M5 dashboard I wanted to buy doesn't fit, but at least I know which ones fit. Thank you for taking the time to educate me about this.
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| 151082 (152hp) | ...I wish you much success in finding a good replacement.
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| anjela (32hp) | All dashboards are screwed together but may vary depending on option. HUD, Paint, B&O, Leather and Full Leather
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| sunshine55 (400hp) | I can only speak for US cars, but there is a version of the leather dashboard where only the top is leather and not the bottom. I bought one to retrofit my F10 and ended up selling it because I wanted all leather surfaces. Just something to watch out for depending on what you have. The F10's dashboards should all physically fit, it's just a matter of color and leather. True OEMs may tell you that parts are not interchangeable, but this can often be fixed by replacing some trim pieces. Sometimes BMW only provides parts as an assembly. So technically this is correct, but there is something to watch out for. More on the topic. The best way to do this is to glue the leather on your dashboard. When removing the dash, I would peel it away from the spot closest to the windshield and add some glue. Then steam and press the leather down, keeping it compressed until it hardens. You can also try using a syringe to squirt glue under the leather, but it looks like you have more than one spot so that may not work. Let us know how you get on.
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| jacks1 (592hp) | Thanks for the info buddy, I'll definitely try your glue suggestion. If I change the dashboard anyway, I have next to nothing to lose. I would never have thought of trying regluing if it weren't for you. Cheers, buddy
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| rex (150hp) | If you go the re-glue route, use a good contact adhesive like 3M 1300L. Spray both surfaces with a paint spray gun and let sit until they feel good (the glue will not stick to your finger when touched). Then apply the leather to the dashboard. If there are areas that are not working together, use a heat gun to reactivate the glue. Also remove any old adhesive residue to create a smoother surface. I'm an airplane upholsterer and I do it all the time. If you must use a steamer, do not repeat this or steam the back of the leather!
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| ratata (664hp) | Hello everyone. Thank you to everyone who has information in advance. I have a 2015 535i F10 LCI and the leather on my dashboard is starting to peel. I'm thinking about simply replacing the entire dash and have found a 2012 M5 F10 (non-LCI) dash at a reasonable price that I would like to purchase. It has the hole for the HUD. It only has the button for the HUD and doesn't have the lane departure warning, BSM etc but I think I can swap that out from my original dash. Does anyone know if all F10 dashboards are the same? Will this M5 Non-LCI dashboard fit my 535i F10 LCI? Thank you everyone. PS: I'm also open to other options if anyone has them. NOTE: I am from Sydney, Australia. If anyone knows a place that can replace/repair the leather?
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| 301276 (90hp) | You can use an online parts database such as www.realoem.com to determine which other BMW models use the same parts as your BMW...as well as any replaced or terminated part numbers that are actively or retroactively interchangeable. Simply enter the last 7 digits of your VIN, then go to the dashboard diagrams (probably VEHICLE TRIM)...then click on the correct 11 digit BMW part number that would be correct for your BMW. You should then see a list of other BMW models that use the same part number. Check the additional column again if there are exclusions for different option codes or other features, etc. F10 vs F90 dashboard:
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| ceramics (865hp) | Ok, darling... thanks a lot, buddy, I'll take a look at it now. Cheers
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| qaz4532 (621hp) | Hey buddy, Realoem.com is great. I figured out which dashboard fits my car. Unfortunately the M5 dashboard I wanted to buy doesn't fit, but at least I know which ones fit. Thank you for taking the time to educate me about this.
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| marinadeduxinaa (549hp) | ...I wish you much success in finding a good replacement.
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| 04081988 (535hp) | All dashboards are screwed together but may vary depending on option. HUD, Paint, B&O, Leather and Full Leather
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| 588588 (899hp) | I can only speak for US cars, but there is a version of the leather dashboard where only the top is leather and not the bottom. I bought one to retrofit my F10 and ended up selling it because I wanted all leather surfaces. Just something to watch out for depending on what you have. The F10's dashboards should all physically fit, it's just a matter of color and leather. True OEMs may tell you that parts are not interchangeable, but this can often be fixed by replacing some trim pieces. Sometimes BMW only provides parts as an assembly. So technically this is correct, but there is something to watch out for. More on the topic. The best way to do this is to glue the leather on your dashboard. When removing the dash, I would peel it away from the spot closest to the windshield and add some glue. Then steam and press the leather down, keeping it compressed until it hardens. You can also try using a syringe to squirt glue under the leather, but it looks like you have more than one spot so that may not work. Let us know how you get on.
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| aiden123 (467hp) | Thanks for the info buddy, I'll definitely try your glue suggestion. If I change the dashboard anyway, I have next to nothing to lose. I would never have thought of trying regluing if it weren't for you. Cheers, buddy
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| midlifecrisis (241hp) | If you go the re-glue route, use a good contact adhesive like 3M 1300L. Spray both surfaces with a paint spray gun and let sit until they feel good (the glue will not stick to your finger when touched). Then apply the leather to the dashboard. If there are areas that are not working together, use a heat gun to reactivate the glue. Also remove any old adhesive residue to create a smoother surface. I'm an airplane upholsterer and I do it all the time. If you must use a steamer, do not repeat this or steam the back of the leather!
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| ganesh1 (43hp) | Hello everyone, I recently got a M47 520d with 184 hp and it seems that it consumes a lot of fuel. I drive quite efficiently, normally similar engines consume 5L per 100km outside the city given my driving style. This car, on the other hand, is around 7. That's an increase of around 50%. I checked the car's faults and there was a fault saying the DPF was heavily loaded and also a fault for the EGR. I replaced the EGR and removed the swirl flaps as they were defective and the error seems to have disappeared. However, the car still consumes a lot of fuel. I wonder if the DPF is actually clogged and this is the reason for the high consumption. The previous owner drove the car mainly in the city and I suspect the DPF may have worn out. What would you advise me? I've already tried vigorous and regular regeneration, still the same.
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| 22101986 (533hp) | Hello everyone, I recently got a M47 520d with 184 hp and it seems that it consumes a lot of fuel. I drive quite efficiently, normally similar engines consume 5L per 100km outside the city given my driving style. This car, on the other hand, is around 7. That's an increase of around 50%. I checked the car's faults and there was a fault saying the DPF was heavily loaded and also a fault for the EGR. I replaced the EGR and removed the swirl flaps as they were defective and the error seems to have disappeared. However, the car still consumes a lot of fuel. I wonder if the DPF is actually clogged and this is the reason for the high consumption. The previous owner drove the car mainly in the city and I suspect the DPF may have worn out. What would you advise me? I've already tried vigorous and regular regeneration, still the same.
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| muffin22 (351hp) | I had a transmission malfunction and decided to change the transmission and solenoids while I was there since the car has already done 149,000,000 miles. I refilled the oil according to the instructions in ISTA and ended up basically just refilling what I took out so there was no transmission fluid loss. In other words, I jacked up the car, checked the oil level at 40°C and topped it up until a tiny bit of oil started to slip out, then tightened the bolt. However, while driving I get the following error messages. The car will automatically go into neutral if you don't exceed 2nd gear. ISTA error codes notable mention Gear monitoring in fixed gear, clutch B faulty Gear monitoring of all clutches implausible output speed and wheel speed impermissible deviation electronic wheel module position unknown, no reception Any thoughts?
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| floyd123 (775hp) | I just finished taking care of this on my RWD 550. If gear ratio monitoring codes appear, it usually means the transmission is new. I went through the exact same process. I had just completed the fluid and filter service and a week or two later the same thing happened. For me it ended up being an internal error in the EGS control unit that disabled my entire transmission, so I had to get a brand new transmission and EEGs. When you put the pan back on, make sure you haven't overtightened the screws on the pan? If you overtighten it, the seal may leak and oil pressure will be lost.
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| Rob Davey (780hp) | Quote: Originally written by Broken F10. I've just finished dealing with my RWD 550. If you see gear ratio monitoring codes, it usually means a new transmission. I went through the exact same process. I had just completed the fluid and filter service and a week or two later the same thing happened. For me it ended up being an internal error in the EGS control unit that disabled my entire transmission, so I had to get a brand new transmission and EEGs. When you put the pan back on, make sure you haven't overtightened the screws on the pan? If you overtighten it, the seal may leak and oil pressure will be lost. How did you determine that the EGS had an error? Please explain to my friend.
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| smanoj77 (898hp) | I didn't know there was a problem until it was diagnosed by a mechanic. But before the transmission actually failed, when going from 3rd to 2nd gear it randomly tried to immediately upshift and then downshift. The entire car would jerk and stall for a split second.
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| coldwater (334hp) | Quote: Originally written by Broken F10. I've just finished dealing with my RWD 550. If you see gear ratio monitoring codes, it usually means a new transmission. I went through the exact same process. I had just completed the fluid and filter service and a week or two later the same thing happened. For me it ended up being an internal error in the EGS control unit that disabled my entire transmission, so I had to get a brand new transmission and EEGs. When you put the pan back on, make sure you haven't overtightened the screws on the pan? If you overtighten it, the seal may leak and oil pressure will be lost. I just had my transmission repaired and a new one installed for a total of 475 for the transmission and 800 for the installation
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| kiko (434hp) | I had a transmission malfunction and decided to change the transmission and solenoids while I was there since the car has already done 149,000,000 miles. I refilled the oil according to the instructions in ISTA and ended up basically just refilling what I took out so there was no transmission fluid loss. In other words, I jacked up the car, checked the oil level at 40°C and topped it up until a tiny bit of oil started to slip out, then tightened the bolt. However, while driving I get the following error messages. The car will automatically go into neutral if you don't exceed 2nd gear. ISTA error codes notable mention Gear monitoring in fixed gear, clutch B faulty Gear monitoring of all clutches implausible output speed and wheel speed impermissible deviation electronic wheel module position unknown, no reception Any thoughts?
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| ducati1 (810hp) | I just finished taking care of this on my RWD 550. If gear ratio monitoring codes appear, it usually means the transmission is new. I went through the exact same process. I had just completed the fluid and filter service and a week or two later the same thing happened. For me it ended up being an internal error in the EGS control unit that disabled my entire transmission, so I had to get a brand new transmission and EEGs. When you put the pan back on, make sure you haven't overtightened the screws on the pan? If you overtighten it, the seal may leak and oil pressure will be lost.
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| elle (82hp) | Quote: Originally written by Broken F10. I've just finished dealing with my RWD 550. If you see gear ratio monitoring codes, it usually means a new transmission. I went through the exact same process. I had just completed the fluid and filter service and a week or two later the same thing happened. For me it ended up being an internal error in the EGS control unit that disabled my entire transmission, so I had to get a brand new transmission and EEGs. When you put the pan back on, make sure you haven't overtightened the screws on the pan? If you overtighten it, the seal may leak and oil pressure will be lost. How did you determine that the EGS had an error? Please explain to my friend.
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| 130591 (606hp) | I didn't know there was a problem until it was diagnosed by a mechanic. But before the transmission actually failed, when going from 3rd to 2nd gear it randomly tried to immediately upshift and then downshift. The entire car would jerk and stall for a split second.
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| stu (215hp) | Quote: Originally written by Broken F10. I've just finished dealing with my RWD 550. If you see gear ratio monitoring codes, it usually means a new transmission. I went through the exact same process. I had just completed the fluid and filter service and a week or two later the same thing happened. For me it ended up being an internal error in the EGS control unit that disabled my entire transmission, so I had to get a brand new transmission and EEGs. When you put the pan back on, make sure you haven't overtightened the screws on the pan? If you overtighten it, the seal may leak and oil pressure will be lost. I just had my transmission repaired and a new one installed for a total of 475 for the transmission and 800 for the installation
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| fergus1 (825hp) | I know that mold forms in the air conditioner due to standing water. I *ONLY* smell it when I blow air without the AC compressor on. I would like to confirm some remedies I googled which is to take air conditioning disinfectant and spray it way into the vents. Am I missing something? Everyone knows this and has a better solution?
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| fastcars (389hp) | No. A can of Lysol should do the trick. For the future, turn off the air conditioning before you reach your destination and run the fan.
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