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| sweet88 (368hp) | If you don't enter a code, errors will occur after installation, which is easy. If your mechanic has replaced a BMW battery in the last 10 years, he should automatically know this
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| lacrosse12 (165hp) | You will need to recode even if you replace the battery with the exact same OEM battery - but a non-OEM battery with a different capacity. This mechanic has no idea. Install ISTA+ and program it yourself. There are a few videos on YouTube that will walk you through it. It's very simple.
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| gri (532hp) | Be sure to register that you have replaced the battery (to recognize that the battery is new). You only need to code if you have significantly changed the battery chemistry (AGM/flooded) or capacity. The options to choose from when coding a battery capacity: value_00 value 00 80ah 80 amp hours 90ah 90 amp hours 110ah 110 amp hours 70ah 70 amp hours 55ah 55 amp hours 46ah 46 amp hours 70ah_agm 70 amp hours (agm ) 90ah_agm 90 amp hours (agm) 60ah_agm 60 amp hours (agm) 80ah_agm 80 amp hours (agm) As far as I can see, 90Ah and 95Ah are in the same bucket. I would conclude that NO CODING IS REQUIRED. Register the new battery and enjoy. Many tools can register. Even MHD can register a replacement battery.
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| jimjones (263hp) | According to my research and videos on the charging system. It is important to register a new battery. If this is not the case, the smart charging system will assume that the old battery is still present and may not charge properly, reducing the life of the new battery more quickly.
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| infected (375hp) | Thank you for the answer. I'll try it myself now.
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| Im4citadel (426hp) | Update: I just registered a new battery using the BimmerLink app (I was asked if the new battery was a different type and clicked NO) and now the Bimmerlink and Bimmercode apps show 105 Ah AGM. I suppose I should change it to 90 Ah, right? But I'm curious why it says 105 Ah when the original battery was 90 Ah. Maybe the previous owner replaced the battery without coding... Will the 90 Ah battery cause any problems at all? Is there any way I can check what specifications the battery had when it came from the factory??
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| James007 (847hp) | Quote: Originally posted by lukavergille I replaced the battery on my 2013 F10 535i with a non-OEM Exide AGM battery (95 Ah). OEM had 90Ah. After the replacement, I asked for programming/coding to tell the car that a new battery with different specifications was installed, but the mechanic said it wasn't necessary. He said that this should only be done if an error occurs after installation. There were none. So will there be problems without coding/programming? Can I do it alone? I have an obd port if it's useful. Your mechanic is definitely wrong. Since your car has an IBS (intelligent battery sensor), registration is required for every new battery. Battery registration has been required since the debut of the 5-Series E60 in 2004, the first BMW with IBS. The e65/e66 7-series and e90 3-series also required battery registration, but they did NOT have IBS... their charging system was serviced via the LIN bus or BSD bus. Battery coding (which is NOT the same as battery registration) is required when the battery's specifications are changed. In most cases, the specifications of the 90Ah/92Ah/95Ah batteries are so close that no coding is required when switching from one battery to another. The encoding software may not even list all of these specifications. BUT...if the battery AH is larger...e.g. when changing from an 80 Ah battery to a 90/92/95 Ah battery...or from a 90/92/95 Ah battery to a 105 Ah battery (or vice versa). ..then coding is required for such a large amp hour change. Again, don’t confuse coding and registration – they are TWO different things. Check out the information about IBS below and also note the last paragraph about battery registration.
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| badong (228hp) | Quote: Originally posted by lukavergille Update: I just registered a new battery using the BimmerLink app (I was asked if the new battery was a different type and clicked NO) and now in the Bimmerlink and Bimmercode apps 105 Ah AGM displayed. I suppose I should change it to 90 Ah, right? But I'm curious why it says 105 Ah when the original battery was 90 Ah. Maybe the previous owner replaced the battery without coding... Will the 90 Ah battery cause any problems at all? Is there any way I can check what specifications the battery had when it came from the factory? As I mentioned above and in other posts, the 90/92/95 Ah batteries can be placed in the same battery amp hour class in terms of coding if your coding software doesn't list the exact battery you have. Select the AH specification that is closest to the battery you have installed. If the Bimmerlink and Bimmercode apps select the 105Ah battery by default, go back and select to make changes closer to your new 95Ah battery. Originally BMW installed 90/92 Ah batteries in many F-Chassis models and later increased them to 105-110 Ah batteries when many BMWs that were still under warranty came back with problems with deeply discharged batteries. Since you are using Bimmercode and Bimmerlink, I think you need to first "code" the battery with Bimmercode (choose the amp-hour selection that is closest to your installation) and then open Bimmerlink and "register" the new battery.
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| cutie45 (361hp) | Quote: Originally posted by Qsilver7 As I mentioned above and in other posts, the 90/92/95 Ah batteries can be placed in the same battery amp hour class in terms of coding if your coding software doesn't list it exactly what you have. Select the AH specification that is closest to the battery you have installed. If the Bimmerlink and Bimmercode apps select the 105Ah battery by default, go back and select to make changes closer to your new 95Ah battery. Originally BMW installed 90/92 Ah batteries in many F-Chassis models and later increased them to 105-110 Ah batteries when many BMWs that were still under warranty came back with problems with deeply discharged batteries. Since you are using Bimmercode and Bimmerlink, I think you need to first "code" the battery with Bimmercode (choose the amp-hour selection that is closest to your installation) and then open Bimmerlink and "register" the new battery. Thank you for your detailed information. Yes, unfortunately the mechanics in my area don't really know their stuff. I just changed AH to 90 and re-registered it via Bimmerlink. Thanks again for the clarification.
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| summ3r (335hp) | Quote: Originally posted by lukavergille Update: I just registered a new battery using the BimmerLink app (I was asked if the new battery was a different type and clicked NO) and now in the Bimmerlink and Bimmercode apps 105 Ah AGM displayed. I suppose I should change it to 90 Ah, right? But I'm curious why it says 105 Ah when the original battery was 90 Ah. Maybe the previous owner replaced the battery without coding... Will the 90 Ah battery cause any problems at all? Is there any way I can check what specifications the battery had when it came from the factory? I would code 90 Ah in your situation. Since you have BimmerLink it should be pretty easy.
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| 444666 (877hp) | Greetings, I'm in a bit of a pickle here because I discovered a small crack in the lens of my driver's headlight, which causes a lot of condensation to form when it rains or when I wash my car. I plan to purchase a new assembly/case without modules and will swap my current modules for the new empty assembly/case. I'm assuming this should be a simple plug and play device and no coding/initialization required since I'm using my current modules, but with BMWs you never know. Has anyone tried this before, and if so, did you have to do any programming to use your current/old modules with a new assembly? Any insight would be appreciated. Thanks!
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| pokemon12345 (860hp) | If you just replace the assembly and move everything, no coding is required. Disconnect the battery
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| 0919 (766hp) | Quote: Originally written by vennids. If you just replace the assembly and move everything, no coding is required. Disconnect the battery If I don't disconnect the battery, does it have to be coded even if I use the same modules? Or is it just a precaution so I don't wear anything? Thank you for your reply.
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| hetfield (11hp) | Disconnecting the battery is a precautionary measure since xenon operates at high voltages. It also ensures that the car does not give random errors when disconnecting the headlights. You need to adjust the beam and measure it on a wall where it is with the current spotlight so you can compare.
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| pamela01 (563hp) | Quote: Originally posted by vennids Disconnecting the battery is a precautionary measure since xenon operates at high voltages. It also ensures that the car does not give random errors when disconnecting the headlights. You need to adjust the beam and measure it on a wall where it is with the current spotlight so you can compare. Understood. One final question (excuse my ignorance): can the beam be adjusted manually or does it need to be coded??
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| 110105 (591hp) | There are vertical and horizontal adjustment screws on the headlights. Here is a guide
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| norman123 (25hp) | Quote: Originally written by vennids. There are vertical and horizontal adjustment screws on the headlights. Here is a guide. Thank you!!
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| yosemite1 (111hp) | Greetings, I'm in a bit of a pickle here because I discovered a small crack in the lens of my driver's headlight, which causes a lot of condensation to form when it rains or when I wash my car. I plan to purchase a new assembly/case without modules and will swap my current modules for the new empty assembly/case. I'm assuming this should be a simple plug and play device and no coding/initialization required since I'm using my current modules, but with BMWs you never know. Has anyone tried this before, and if so, did you have to do any programming to use your current/old modules with a new assembly? Any insight would be appreciated. Thanks!
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| 18021977 (677hp) | If you just replace the assembly and move everything, no coding is required. Disconnect the battery
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| Grizzles (689hp) | Quote: Originally written by vennids. If you just replace the assembly and move everything, no coding is required. Disconnect the battery If I don't disconnect the battery, does it have to be coded even if I use the same modules? Or is it just a precaution so I don't wear anything? Thank you for your reply.
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| alex777 (334hp) | Disconnecting the battery is a precautionary measure since xenon operates at high voltages. It also ensures that the car does not give random errors when disconnecting the headlights. You need to adjust the beam and measure it on a wall where it is with the current spotlight so you can compare.
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| guadalupe2 (892hp) | Quote: Originally posted by vennids Disconnecting the battery is a precautionary measure since xenon operates at high voltages. It also ensures that the car does not give random errors when disconnecting the headlights. You need to adjust the beam and measure it on a wall where it is with the current spotlight so you can compare. Understood. One final question (excuse my ignorance): can the beam be adjusted manually or does it need to be coded??
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| 200192 (529hp) | There are vertical and horizontal adjustment screws on the headlights. Here is a guide
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| dgrahamr (25hp) | Quote: Originally written by vennids. There are vertical and horizontal adjustment screws on the headlights. Here is a guide. Thank you!!
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| lovemoney (321hp) | Greetings from the X5 world. It looks like our cars have the same PDC sensors so I thought I'd post something here and see if anyone has any advice. About 8 months ago one of my PDC sensors started failing intermittently and eventually failed completely, shutting down the entire PDC sensor. Did the finger test to find out which sensor it was and I also used Protool to double check the front center left sensor. Purchase a new sensor and bring it to the shop to have it installed today. After installation, the PDC system still does not work. The shop said all the wiring was fine, but they didn't have time to look into the issue further today. Checked the error on Protool and it still points to the same sensor. I've tried several times to fix the error but keep coming back. Any ideas what else it could be? I suspect it's possible that the new sensor is defective. The only way to tell is to swap it with the one in the middle right and see what happens
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| 15121978 (409hp) | Go here... www.newtis.info Enter your chassis number and find out about the replacement procedure. You probably missed some steps.
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| ashley77 (255hp) | There are really no steps. Pull bumper. Remove old sensor. Install a new one. I noticed that the small rubber ring was missing (which could certainly cause problems in the rain), but that shouldn't have been a problem during installation. https://www.newtis.info/tisv2/a/en/e...ol-pdc/FwXxQ2Z
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| cerbera (158hp) | In fact, there are steps if you read more than just one page. Example cleaning of connections. One more thing, and this is a quote, be careful! Check the correct position of the decoupling element on the ultrasonic sensor. It is important to place the correct decoupling element correctly. Otherwise, transmission and reception will be affected. You should probably find someone who is more familiar with the system. You can use this website to search for an Indy near you. www.bimrs.org
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| jaylon1 (906hp) | Is there another error??
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| 120102 (204hp) | Quote: Originally written by wcr3d Actually, there are steps when reading more than just one page. Example cleaning of connections. One more thing, and this is a quote, be careful! Check the correct position of the decoupling element on the ultrasonic sensor. It is important to place the correct decoupling element correctly. Otherwise, transmission and reception will be affected. You should probably find someone who is more familiar with the system. You can use this website to search for an Indy near you. www.bimrs.org Good place for the decoupler. I've read most of these pages, but I missed this one. Cleaning the connections is a natural step for me and therefore second nature. These people only work on BMWs and have been working on my cars for 10 years. They know what they're doing. However, I'm surprised that the decoupler was missing
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| cgi-2 (670hp) | Okay, sorry, I didn't know they were experienced and preferred.
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| luvme1 (991hp) | Quote: Originally posted by wcr3d Ok, sorry, I didn't know they were experienced and preferred. Lol, don't worry, man. That's the first thing I usually ask
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| applepie2 (974hp) | Quote: Originally written by OnlyGerman Is there another error? Error code before changing the center to the left. Same error after swap
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| matthew02 (990hp) | Quote: Originally posted by ryansbmw Quote: Originally posted by OnlyGerman Is there another error? Error code before changing the center to the left. Same error after replacement. Can you try switching from another good sensor and check the errors again?
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| healthy1 (706hp) | Are there any updates to your sensor? I have a similar problem...the sensor purchased on eBay was replaced. The wiring also seems fine..
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| bethany12 (556hp) | Greetings from the X5 world. It looks like our cars have the same PDC sensors so I thought I'd post something here and see if anyone has any advice. About 8 months ago one of my PDC sensors started failing intermittently and eventually failed completely, shutting down the entire PDC sensor. Did the finger test to find out which sensor it was and I also used Protool to double check the front center left sensor. Purchase a new sensor and bring it to the shop to have it installed today. After installation, the PDC system still does not work. The shop said all the wiring was fine, but they didn't have time to look into the issue further today. Checked the error on Protool and it still points to the same sensor. I've tried several times to fix the error but keep coming back. Any ideas what else it could be? I suspect it's possible that the new sensor is defective. The only way to tell is to swap it with the one in the middle right and see what happens
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| SIMPLE (329hp) | Go here... www.newtis.info Enter your chassis number and find out about the replacement procedure. You probably missed some steps.
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| sweethoney (68hp) | There are really no steps. Pull bumper. Remove old sensor. Install a new one. I noticed that the small rubber ring was missing (which could certainly cause problems in the rain), but that shouldn't have been a problem during installation. https://www.newtis.info/tisv2/a/en/e...ol-pdc/FwXxQ2Z
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| mobilej (623hp) | In fact, there are steps if you read more than just one page. Example cleaning of connections. One more thing, and this is a quote, be careful! Check the correct position of the decoupling element on the ultrasonic sensor. It is important to place the correct decoupling element correctly. Otherwise, transmission and reception will be affected. You should probably find someone who is more familiar with the system. You can use this website to search for an Indy near you. www.bimrs.org
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| 000webhost.com (97hp) | Is there another error??
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| bubblegum3 (945hp) | Quote: Originally written by wcr3d Actually, there are steps when reading more than just one page. Example cleaning of connections. One more thing, and this is a quote, be careful! Check the correct position of the decoupling element on the ultrasonic sensor. It is important to place the correct decoupling element correctly. Otherwise, transmission and reception will be affected. You should probably find someone more familiar with the system. You can use this website to search for an Indy near you. www.bimrs.org Good place for the decoupler. I've read most of these pages, but I missed this one. Cleaning the connections is a natural step for me and therefore second nature. These people only work on BMWs and have been working on my cars for 10 years. They know what they're doing. However, I'm surprised that the decoupler was missing
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| vova1998 (30hp) | Okay, sorry, I didn't know they were experienced and preferred.
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| 1courtney (474hp) | Quote: Originally posted by wcr3d Ok, sorry, I didn't know they were experienced and preferred. Lol, don't worry, man. That's the first thing I usually ask
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| tiger2000 (952hp) | Quote: Originally written by OnlyGerman Is there another error? Error code before changing the center to the left. Same error after swap
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| aisha1 (578hp) | Quote: Originally posted by ryansbmw Quote: Originally posted by OnlyGerman Is there another error? Error code before changing the center to the left. Same error after replacement. Can you try switching from another good sensor and check the errors again?
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| iloveit (129hp) | Are there any updates to your sensor? I have a similar problem...the sensor purchased on eBay was replaced. The wiring also seems fine..
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| Peanut (192hp) | Hello everyone, I hope you're doing well. I recently purchased a used 2012 535i from an Audi dealer and after a test drive in rainy conditions, I noticed some condensation in the driver's side headlight assembly. I previously owned an E92 LCI that had condensation forming and then disappearing, so I wasn't too worried about it and bought the F10 from the dealer. After driving in moderate rain tonight, I noticed a lot of condensation and droplets in the same headlight assembly on the driver side while the passenger side remained bone dry. I did some research and found some TSBs on this issue. Since the car is used and out of warranty, what are my chances of getting this headlight assembly replaced with a new one free of charge? If I have to pay, can someone tell me how much I was charged? Would it be better for me to just buy a new assembly and replace it myself? If I had just purchased a new assembly but reused all the modules and other electronics, would I need to initialize the lights to get them to work or is that not necessary since the modules I would use are already programmed into my car ? Any insight into this would be greatly appreciated. Thank you very much!! (The last photo shows the assembly on the passenger side taken at the same time, without any condensation forming in it)
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| shabang (148hp) | I would say it never hurts to ask a dealer (nice). Sometimes SA with BMW will cover the distance for you. For them it is also income.
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| arizona (360hp) | There's no way they're going to do anything. Some condensation is normal, but yours seems to be extreme. You can purchase a new assembly and move modules. I would hurry up, your current problem may cause damage to modules.
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| claudiu1981 (317hp) | Quote: Originally written by OnlyGerman There's no way they're going to do anything. Some condensation is normal, but you seem to be extreme. You can purchase a new assembly and move modules. I would hurry up, your current problem may cause damage to modules. +1 You bought a 12 year old car from an Audi dealer. I doubt any BMW owner would show any good will. They recognized the problem and bought the car anyway. Just fix it.
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| blume (638hp) | Even a used car should come with some sort of warranty unless it is being sold as-is. Check your records as this is a safety issue that needs to be addressed
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| 09011986 (55hp) | Thanks everyone for the answers. Unfortunately the car was sold as is and the Audi dealer said no work would be done on BMWs. During the test drive there was only condensation in the headlight, no large drops of water like the other night, so I didn't worry too much about it as condensation is normal with these headlights. I contacted BMWNA and they said I would have to pay for it even though there are several TSBs on the subject. My plan now is to simply buy a new assembly and replace my modules. I still don't know if coding will be required when I move my existing modules (which all work) to the new assembly. Additionally, the morning after these photos were taken, surprisingly 90% of the condensation had cleared, even though it had been raining all night.
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| dixie (694hp) | You need to dry it as quickly as possible before it causes further damage to the headlight control module. I had a similar problem and removed the entire headlight and resealed it. I found that moisture had stuck to two headlight housing covers (one top, one rear) and the control module electrical connector. You can try just leaving the top cover off (which is much easier) if you don't see any direct water ingress there. This also allows the moisture to dry out as soon as the headlight is turned on. What's interesting is that I only saw the headlight condensation on the driver's side headlights!
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| jordan02 (61hp) | Quote: Originally posted by loobie Even a used car should come with some sort of warranty unless it is sold as is. Check your records as this is a safety issue that needs to be addressed. 99% of used cars are sold as is. I'm not sure if you bought a used car. AND if not, the warranty is limited to a fake powertrain warranty of 3,000/3 months or even a lifetime warranty. That's always too good to be true.
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| godknowmegod (868hp) | Quote: Originally posted by Kas5gd Thanks everyone for the replies. Unfortunately the car was sold as is and the Audi dealer said no work would be done on BMWs. During the test drive there was only condensation in the headlight, no large drops of water like the other night, so I didn't worry too much about it as condensation is normal with these headlights. I contacted BMWNA and they said I would have to pay for it even though there are several TSBs on the subject. My plan now is to simply buy a new assembly and replace my modules. I still don't know if coding will be required when I move my existing modules (which all work) to the new assembly. Additionally, the morning after these photos were taken, surprisingly 90% of the condensation had cleared, even though it had been raining all night. I'm not sure, but can you reseal the original headlight since it's still fine overall? OP, I would try talking to the dealer about this, maybe they can pass on the cost. I know that all these assemblies are not cheap. I paid $450 for a very nice device including all modules
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| 123hot (288hp) | Quote: Originally posted by OnlyGerman Quote: Originally posted by Kas5gd Thanks everyone for the replies. Unfortunately the car was sold as is and the Audi dealer said no work would be done on BMWs. During the test drive there was only condensation in the headlight, no large drops of water like the other night, so I didn't worry too much about it as condensation is normal with these headlights. I contacted BMWNA and they said I would have to pay for it even though there are several TSBs on the subject. My plan now is to simply buy a new assembly and replace my modules. I still don't know if coding will be required when I move my existing modules (which all work) to the new assembly. Additionally, the morning after these photos were taken, surprisingly 90% of the condensation had cleared, even though it had been raining all night. I'm not sure, but can you reseal the original headlight since it's still fine overall? I wouldn't even know where to start resealing them. I'm pretty good with my hands and have worked on BMWs many times, so I know I can remove the bumper and headlight assembly, but as far as resealing it, I have no idea.
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| bonfire (78hp) | Quote: Originally written by Kas5gd. I wouldn't even know where to start to close them again. I'm pretty good with my hands and have worked on BMWs many times, so I know I can remove the bumper and headlight assembly, but as far as resealing it, I have no idea. I only overhauled the rubber seal of these three parts in arrows. I didn't see any cracks on the case. You don't have to remove the entire bumper to access the lamp assembly. You just need to loosen a few screws at one end. From what I understand, if you replace the entire lamp assembly you will need to code the new one. Or you can keep the old control module if it is still OK.
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| 130483 (91hp) | Quote: Originally posted by TZ Quote: Originally posted by Kas5gd I wouldn't even know where to start resealing them. I'm pretty good with my hands and have worked on BMWs many times, so I know I can remove the bumper and headlight assembly, but as far as resealing it, I have no idea. I only overhauled the rubber seal of these three parts in arrows. I didn't see any cracks on the case. You don't have to remove the entire bumper to access the lamp assembly. You just need to loosen a few screws at one end. From what I understand, if you replace the entire lamp assembly you will need to code the new one. Or you can keep the old control module if it is still OK. I'll definitely look at all the seals once I've removed the assembly. Have you purchased new rubber seals to replace them? I meant I would buy a new case/assembly without all the modules and just use the ones I have.
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| 4mutdfgvtp (339hp) | Just so you know, I bought a completely used headlight with all the modules and my Indy just plugged it in and nothing was required. We thought the module needed to be restarted, but no. I would look into sealing it and just see how it goes. Why spend money on a replacement light when you can easily repair it yourself?....
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| purchase (208hp) | Quote: Originally posted by OnlyGerman Just so you know: I bought a completely used headlight with all modules and my Indy just plugged it in and nothing was required. We thought the module needed to be restarted, but no. I would look into sealing it and just see how it goes. Why should you spend money on a replacement light when you can easily repair it yourself? Honestly, $450 isn't a bad price at all. The ones I found online cost $1,000+ for the empty case alone. I'd happily pay $450 for a decent used assembly and modules
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| 19041989 (774hp) | Quote: Originally posted by Kas5gd Quote: Originally posted by OnlyGerman Just so you know: I bought a completely used headlight with all modules and my Indy just plugged it in and nothing was required. We thought the module needed to be restarted, but no. I would look into sealing it and just see how it goes. Why should you spend money on a replacement light when you can easily repair it yourself? Honestly, $450 isn't a bad price at all. The ones I found online cost $1,000+ for the empty case alone. I'd happily pay $450 for a decent used assembly and modules. I'm still not sure why you can't repair your current assembly...
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| jaquan (290hp) | Quote: Originally posted by OnlyGerman Quote: Originally posted by Kas5gd Quote: Originally posted by OnlyGerman Just so you know, I bought a completely used headlight with all the modules and my Indy just plugged it in and nothing was required. We thought the module needed to be restarted, but no. I would look into sealing it and just see how it goes. Why should you spend money on a replacement light when you can easily repair it yourself? Honestly, $450 isn't a bad price at all. The ones I found online cost $1,000+ for the empty case alone. I'd happily pay $450 for a decent used assembly and modules. I'm still not sure why you can't repair your current assembly... I'm not entirely sure how to go about this lol, that's why. If I had a smoke machine I could do a smoke test and see where the leak is, but I don't, and I don't even know what type of sealant/silicone to use, how to apply it, how long it cures etc. This is what I would do. I just feel better knowing I have a brand new assembly with no problems. If there is anyone in the Northern Virginia area who would like to do this, I would be happy to pay them to do it.
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| bsouth19 (897hp) | Quote: Originally posted by Kas5gd Quote: Originally posted by OnlyGerman Quote: Originally posted by Kas5gd Quote: Originally posted by OnlyGerman Just so you know: I bought a completely used headlight with all the modules and my Indy just plugged it in and it worked don't ask for something. We thought the module needed to be restarted, but no. I would look into sealing it and just see how it goes. Why should you spend money on a replacement light when you can easily repair it yourself? Honestly, $450 isn't a bad price at all. The ones I found online cost $1,000+ for the empty case alone. I'd happily pay $450 for a decent used assembly and modules. I'm still not sure why you can't repair your current assembly... I'm not entirely sure how to go about this lol, that's why. If I had a smoke machine I could do a smoke test and see where the leak is, but I don't, and I don't even know what type of sealant/silicone to use, how to apply it, how long it cures etc. This is what I would do. I just feel better knowing I have a brand new assembly with no issues that I would just try. In the worst case scenario, you will need another headlight. However, make sure that all modules are intact when replacing
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| blood9 (663hp) | Quote: Originally posted by OnlyGerman Quote: Originally posted by Kas5gd Quote: Originally posted by OnlyGerman Quote: Originally posted by Kas5gd Quote: Originally posted by OnlyGerman Just so you know, I bought a completely used headlight with all modules and my Indy has it Just plugged it in and nothing was required. We thought the module needed to be restarted, but no. I would look into sealing it and just see how it goes. Why should you spend money on a replacement light when you can easily repair it yourself? Honestly, $450 isn't a bad price at all. The ones I found online cost $1,000+ for the empty case alone. I'd happily pay $450 for a decent used assembly and modules. I'm still not sure why you can't repair your current assembly... I'm not entirely sure how to go about this lol, that's why. If I had a smoke machine I could do a smoke test and see where the leak is, but I don't, and I don't even know what type of sealant/silicone to use, how to apply it, how long it cures etc. This is what I would do. I just feel better knowing I have a brand new assembly with no issues that I would just try. In the worst case scenario, you will need a different headlight. Just make sure all modules are intact when replacing. I'll try it on my next day off when I can take the assembly out. I'll keep you all updated
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| flamer (744hp) | Quote: Originally posted by Kas5gd Quote: Originally posted by OnlyGerman Quote: Originally posted by Kas5gd Quote: Originally posted by OnlyGerman Quote: Originally posted by Kas5gd Quote: Originally posted by OnlyGerman Just so you know, I have a completely used headlight with all of them Bought modules and my Indy just plugged it in and nothing was required. We thought the module needed to be restarted, but no. I would look into sealing it and just see how it goes. Why should you spend money on a replacement light when you can easily repair it yourself? Honestly, $450 isn't a bad price at all. The ones I found online cost $1,000+ for the empty case alone. I'd happily pay $450 for a decent used assembly and modules. I'm still not sure why you can't repair your current assembly... I'm not entirely sure how to go about this lol, that's why. If I had a smoke machine I could do a smoke test and see where the leak is, but I don't, and I don't even know what type of sealant/silicone to use, how to apply it, how long it cures etc. This is what I would do. I just feel better knowing I have a brand new assembly with no issues that I would just try. In the worst case scenario, you will need a different headlight. Just make sure all modules are intact when replacing. I'll try it on my next day off when I can take the assembly out. I'll keep you all updated. I'm pretty sure the bumper needs to come out, there's no way around it.
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| kal (225hp) | Quote: Originally posted by OnlyGerman 99% of used cars are sold as is. I'm not sure if you bought a used car. AND if not, the warranty is limited to a fake powertrain warranty of 3,000/3 months or even a lifetime warranty. That's always too good to be true. Yes, I bought many... This may be different in other states, but in Massachusetts, one is required for any car with less than 125,000 miles. https://www.mass.gov/guides/guide-to...e-warranty-law
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| mskitty (955hp) | Quote: Originally posted by loobie Yes, I have bought many... It may be different in other states, but in Massachusetts every car under 125,000 miles needs one. https://www.mass.gov/guides/guide-to...e-warranty-law Which defects are covered? Is light condensation one of them??
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| 113114 (257hp) | TSBs are nothing more than factory instructions for field service technicians. They are completely different than callbacks.
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| nascar2 (800hp) | Hello everyone, I hope you're doing well. I recently purchased a used 2012 535i from an Audi dealer and after a test drive in rainy conditions, I noticed some condensation in the driver's side headlight assembly. I previously owned an E92 LCI that had condensation forming and then disappearing, so I wasn't too worried about it and bought the F10 from the dealer. After driving in moderate rain tonight, I noticed a lot of condensation and droplets in the same headlight assembly on the driver side while the passenger side remained bone dry. I did some research and found some TSBs on this issue. Since the car is used and out of warranty, what are my chances of getting this headlight assembly replaced with a new one free of charge? If I have to pay, can someone tell me how much I was charged? Would it be better for me to just buy a new assembly and replace it myself? If I had just purchased a new assembly but reused all the modules and other electronics, would I need to initialize the lights to get them to work or is that not necessary since the modules I would use are already programmed into my car ? Any insight into this would be greatly appreciated. Thank you very much!! (The last photo shows the assembly on the passenger side taken at the same time, without any condensation forming in it)
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| poohbear6 (784hp) | I would say it never hurts to ask a dealer (nice). Sometimes SA with BMW will cover the distance for you. For them it is also income.
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| disney13 (469hp) | There's no way they're going to do anything. Some condensation is normal, but yours seems to be extreme. You can purchase a new assembly and move modules. I would hurry up, your current problem may cause damage to modules.
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| macbeth (484hp) | Quote: Originally written by OnlyGerman There's no way they're going to do anything. Some condensation is normal, but you seem to be extreme. You can purchase a new assembly and move modules. I would hurry up, your current problem may cause damage to modules. +1 You bought a 12 year old car from an Audi dealer. I doubt any BMW owner would show any good will. They recognized the problem and bought the car anyway. Just fix it.
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| lover9 (175hp) | Even a used car should come with some sort of warranty unless it is being sold as-is. Check your records as this is a safety issue that needs to be addressed
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| elsa (558hp) | Thanks everyone for the answers. Unfortunately the car was sold as is and the Audi dealer said no work would be done on BMWs. During the test drive there was only condensation in the headlight, no large drops of water like the other night, so I didn't worry too much about it as condensation is normal with these headlights. I contacted BMWNA and they said I would have to pay for it even though there are several TSBs on the subject. My plan now is to simply buy a new assembly and replace my modules. I still don't know if coding will be required when I move my existing modules (which all work) to the new assembly. Additionally, the morning after these photos were taken, surprisingly 90% of the condensation had cleared, even though it had been raining all night.
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| nt25940 (643hp) | You need to dry it as quickly as possible before it causes further damage to the headlight control module. I had a similar problem and removed the entire headlight and resealed it. I found that moisture had stuck to two headlight housing covers (one top, one rear) and the control module electrical connector. You can try just leaving the top cover off (which is much easier) if you don't see any direct water ingress there. This also allows the moisture to dry out as soon as the headlight is turned on. What's interesting is that I only saw the headlight condensation on the driver's side headlights!
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| 270981 (412hp) | Quote: Originally posted by loobie Even a used car should come with some sort of warranty unless it is sold as is. Check your records as this is a safety issue that needs to be addressed. 99% of used cars are sold as is. I'm not sure if you bought a used car. AND if not, the warranty is limited to a fake powertrain warranty of 3,000/3 months or even a lifetime warranty. That's always too good to be true.
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| pirouette (614hp) | Quote: Originally posted by Kas5gd Thanks everyone for the replies. Unfortunately the car was sold as is and the Audi dealer said no work would be done on BMWs. During the test drive there was only condensation in the headlight, no large drops of water like the other night, so I didn't worry too much about it as condensation is normal with these headlights. I contacted BMWNA and they said I would have to pay for it even though there are several TSBs on the subject. My plan now is to simply buy a new assembly and replace my modules. I still don't know if coding will be required when I move my existing modules (which all work) to the new assembly. Additionally, the morning after these photos were taken, surprisingly 90% of the condensation had cleared, even though it had been raining all night. I'm not sure, but can you reseal the original headlight since it's still fine overall? OP, I would try talking to the dealer about this, maybe they can pass on the cost. I know that all these assemblies are not cheap. I paid $450 for a very nice device including all modules
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| 260892 (172hp) | Quote: Originally posted by OnlyGerman Quote: Originally posted by Kas5gd Thanks everyone for the replies. Unfortunately the car was sold as is and the Audi dealer said no work would be done on BMWs. During the test drive there was only condensation in the headlight, no large drops of water like the other night, so I didn't worry too much about it as condensation is normal with these headlights. I contacted BMWNA and they said I would have to pay for it even though there are several TSBs on the subject. My plan now is to simply buy a new assembly and replace my modules. I still don't know if coding will be required when I move my existing modules (which all work) to the new assembly. Additionally, the morning after these photos were taken, surprisingly 90% of the condensation had cleared, even though it had been raining all night. I'm not sure, but can you reseal the original headlight since it's still fine overall? I wouldn't even know where to start resealing them. I'm pretty good with my hands and have worked on BMWs many times, so I know I can remove the bumper and headlight assembly, but as far as resealing it, I have no idea.
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| 001212 (165hp) | Quote: Originally written by Kas5gd. I wouldn't even know where to start to close them again. I'm pretty good with my hands and have worked on BMWs many times, so I know I can remove the bumper and headlight assembly, but as far as resealing it, I have no idea. I only overhauled the rubber seal of these three parts in arrows. I didn't see any cracks on the case. You don't have to remove the entire bumper to access the lamp assembly. You just need to loosen a few screws at one end. From what I understand, if you replace the entire lamp assembly you have to code the new one. Or you can keep the old control module if it is still OK.
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| 26021979 (893hp) | Quote: Originally posted by TZ Quote: Originally posted by Kas5gd I wouldn't even know where to start resealing them. I'm pretty good with my hands and have worked on BMWs many times, so I know I can remove the bumper and headlight assembly, but as far as resealing it, I have no idea. I only overhauled the rubber seal of these three parts in arrows. I didn't see any cracks on the case. You don't have to remove the entire bumper to access the lamp assembly. You just need to loosen a few screws at one end. From what I understand, if you replace the entire lamp assembly you will need to code the new one. Or you can keep the old control module if it is still OK. I'll definitely look at all the seals once I've removed the assembly. Have you purchased new rubber seals to replace them? I meant I would buy a new case/assembly without all the modules and just use the ones I have.
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| balloon1 (951hp) | Just so you know, I bought a completely used headlight with all the modules and my Indy just plugged it in and nothing was required. We thought the module needed to be restarted, but no. I would look into sealing it and just see how it goes. Why spend money on a replacement light when you can easily repair it yourself?....
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| baby143 (590hp) | Quote: Originally posted by OnlyGerman Just so you know: I bought a completely used headlight with all modules and my Indy just plugged it in and nothing was required. We thought the module needed to be restarted, but no. I would look into sealing it and just see how it goes. Why should you spend money on a replacement light when you can easily repair it yourself? Honestly, $450 isn't a bad price at all. The ones I found online cost $1,000+ for the empty case alone. I'd happily pay $450 for a decent used assembly and modules
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| chris45 (285hp) | Quote: Originally posted by Kas5gd Quote: Originally posted by OnlyGerman Just so you know: I bought a completely used headlight with all modules and my Indy just plugged it in and nothing was required. We thought the module needed to be restarted, but no. I would look into sealing it and just see how it goes. Why should you spend money on a replacement light when you can easily repair it yourself? Honestly, $450 isn't a bad price at all. The ones I found online cost $1,000+ for the empty case alone. I'd happily pay $450 for a decent used assembly and modules. I'm still not sure why you can't repair your current assembly...
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| arodgers (875hp) | Quote: Originally posted by OnlyGerman Quote: Originally posted by Kas5gd Quote: Originally posted by OnlyGerman Just so you know, I bought a completely used headlight with all the modules and my Indy just plugged it in and nothing was required. We thought the module needed to be restarted, but no. I would look into sealing it and just see how it goes. Why should you spend money on a replacement light when you can easily repair it yourself? Honestly, $450 isn't a bad price at all. The ones I found online cost $1,000+ for the empty case alone. I'd happily pay $450 for a decent used assembly and modules. I'm still not sure why you can't repair your current assembly... I'm not entirely sure how to go about this lol, that's why. If I had a smoke machine I could do a smoke test and see where the leak is, but I don't, and I don't even know what type of sealant/silicone to use, how to apply it, how long it cures etc. This is what I would do. I just feel better knowing I have a brand new assembly with no problems. If there is anyone in the Northern Virginia area who would like to do this, I would be happy to pay them to do it.
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| 400092 (221hp) | Quote: Originally posted by Kas5gd Quote: Originally posted by OnlyGerman Quote: Originally posted by Kas5gd Quote: Originally posted by OnlyGerman Just so you know: I bought a completely used headlight with all the modules and my Indy just plugged it in and it worked don't ask for something. We thought the module needed to be restarted, but no. I would look into sealing it and just see how it goes. Why should you spend money on a replacement light when you can easily repair it yourself? Honestly, $450 isn't a bad price at all. The ones I found online cost $1,000+ for the empty case alone. I'd happily pay $450 for a decent used assembly and modules. I'm still not sure why you can't repair your current assembly... I'm not entirely sure how to go about this lol, that's why. If I had a smoke machine I could do a smoke test and see where the leak is, but I don't, and I don't even know what type of sealant/silicone to use, how to apply it, how long it cures etc. This is what I would do. I just feel better knowing I have a brand new assembly with no issues that I would just try. In the worst case scenario, you will need another headlight. However, make sure that all modules are intact when replacing
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| raindrops (294hp) | Quote: Originally posted by OnlyGerman Quote: Originally posted by Kas5gd Quote: Originally posted by OnlyGerman Quote: Originally posted by Kas5gd Quote: Originally posted by OnlyGerman Just so you know, I bought a completely used headlight with all modules and my Indy has it Just plugged it in and nothing was required. We thought the module needed to be restarted, but no. I would look into sealing it and just see how it goes. Why should you spend money on a replacement light when you can easily repair it yourself? Honestly, $450 isn't a bad price at all. The ones I found online cost $1,000+ for the empty case alone. I'd happily pay $450 for a decent used assembly and modules. I'm still not sure why you can't repair your current assembly... I'm not entirely sure how to go about this lol, that's why. If I had a smoke machine I could do a smoke test and see where the leak is, but I don't, and I don't even know what type of sealant/silicone to use, how to apply it, how long it cures etc. This is what I would do. I just feel better knowing I have a brand new assembly with no issues that I would just try. In the worst case scenario, you will need a different headlight. Just make sure all modules are intact when replacing. I'll try it on my next day off when I can take the assembly out. I'll keep you all updated
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| coert (528hp) | Quote: Originally posted by Kas5gd Quote: Originally posted by OnlyGerman Quote: Originally posted by Kas5gd Quote: Originally posted by OnlyGerman Quote: Originally posted by Kas5gd Quote: Originally posted by OnlyGerman Just so you know, I have a completely used headlight with all of them Bought modules and my Indy just plugged it in and nothing was required. We thought the module needed to be restarted, but no. I would look into sealing it and just see how it goes. Why should you spend money on a replacement light when you can easily repair it yourself? Honestly, $450 isn't a bad price at all. The ones I found online cost $1,000+ for the empty case alone. I'd happily pay $450 for a decent used assembly and modules. I'm still not sure why you can't repair your current assembly... I'm not entirely sure how to go about this lol, that's why. If I had a smoke machine I could do a smoke test and see where the leak is, but I don't, and I don't even know what type of sealant/silicone to use, how to apply it, how long it cures etc. This is what I would do. I just feel better knowing I have a brand new assembly with no issues that I would just try. In the worst case scenario, you will need a different headlight. Just make sure all modules are intact when replacing. I'll try it on my next day off when I can take the assembly out. I'll keep you all updated. I'm pretty sure the bumper needs to come out, there's no way around it.
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| hardcore! (753hp) | Quote: Originally posted by OnlyGerman 99% of used cars are sold as is. I'm not sure if you bought a used car. AND if not, the warranty is limited to a fake powertrain warranty of 3,000/3 months or even a lifetime warranty. That's always too good to be true. Yes, I bought many... This may be different in other states, but in Massachusetts, one is required for any car with less than 125,000 miles. https://www.mass.gov/guides/guide-to...e-warranty-law
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| espada (415hp) | Quote: Originally posted by loobie Yes, I have bought many... It may be different in other states, but in Massachusetts every car under 125,000 miles needs one. https://www.mass.gov/guides/guide-to...e-warranty-law Which defects are covered? Is light condensation one of them??
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| deeznutz1 (602hp) | TSBs are nothing more than factory instructions for field service technicians. They are completely different than callbacks.
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| buster09 (451hp) | Some say the firm seats provide more rigidity and better handling: >,>,>,Toyota said its decision was based on priorities for the current-generation Avalon, which was redesigned for the 2013 model year and refreshed for 2016 . During initial development, “We wanted to improve the driving pleasure of the vehicle,” said spokesman Corey Proffitt. To improve the rigidity of the body in terms of handling, we added a V-brace behind the rear seat. This required a solid seating structure. https://www.cars.com/articles/why-do...1420691642123/
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| Timelessky (105hp) | I love the folding rear seats and use them weekly. Since I had them in my E60, I wouldn't have bought the F10 without them!
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| 120688 (468hp) | A lot. Other than the seats and hardware, there are no holes in the trunk wall.
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| lordvader (472hp) | Quote: Originally posted by Terranova Is it possible to fold down the stock rear seat? How much work would that take? Assume you will receive the 5 pieces that make up the split rear seat back cushion and trim. Then you need a few more items: For the bottom of the rear vertical back pad 1. Quantity 1: 52209162853 Center Bracket, Rear ($35.83 each) 2. Quantity 2: 07147124309 M8 x 20mm Torx Screw for Item 1 (1 .43$). Piece) 3. Quantity 2: 52209162855 Stock End Washer, 1 = Left and 1 = Right ($17.27 each) 4. Quantity 4: 07147116970 M10 x 22mm Button Head Screw for Item 3 ($2.99 each) For the Top of the back vertical back cushion 5. Quantity 1: 1, $24 each) 8. Quantity 1: 52207114469 Left actuator, with cable ($44.32 each) 9. Quantity 2: 52207114470 Right actuator, with cable (44.32 each) 10. Quantity 8: 07119901299 ST4.8X16-ZNS3 Quantity 4 each for items 8 and 9 ($0.32 each) At So at $258.33 for the bracket, latches and screws the cost is minimal. The cost driver is the cost of the split vertical backrest cushions at the rear, the side cushion panels (left and right) and the Isofix (cutting the covers to the locking points of the car seats)... in the correct leather color, type of leather and heating vs. no heating. Most should not need to replace the lower seat cushion and reuse what is currently in your vehicle (back cushion that you sit on). If you find the back seat parts on eBay (all 5 pieces), in black Dakota leather, without heater, for $400 (which I have for sale), then that would be a $700 upgrade. However, if you have heat merino leather then it might be closer to $600 for the 5 pieces, so that would be a $900 upgrade. Purchasing the pillows in pieces from the dealer would cost well over $2,000. The disassembled parts are very, very heavy, so shipping won't be cheap. I hope this helps if you want to do this as an upgrade. Once you receive all the parts, installation will take an hour or less. Cheers
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| 147852369a (650hp) | You should have already punched out the available mounting points so that you can insert the nylon mounts. Below is a picture of the rear trunk release locations with two nylon inserts installed.....
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| 151181 (833hp) | Quote: Originally written by wcr3d. Much. Other than the seats and hardware, there are no holes in the trunk wall. I'm curious about it too. I would take my seat back to take a look. There was a solid wall behind the fixed rear seat back.
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| logan05 (355hp) | Removing it will be a bit of a hassle, and don't forget two of the large Torx screws on the bottom that are only accessible after the bottom cushion is removed... and then the rear backseat support is removed, which many don't see all of Access Points Required to Install Split Rear Seats...If you can strip your rear seats down to bare metal, you should have access for retrofitting...no need to remove the rear shelf. Once you get it out and take a photo in the bottom left and bottom right corners of the opening to the trunk, I can show you what feature to look for to install #3 in my post (stock end washer). ...I can photograph the feature required for #1 in my post upon request. Cheers
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| bonnie11 (489hp) | Opening of the rear seat armrest.
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| oneday1 (952hp) | I need pictures of your car with the rear seatback removed...and I'll mark the area where you should look for the split folding seatback features.
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| 08011992 (484hp) | Some say the firm seats provide more rigidity and better handling: >,>,>,Toyota said its decision was based on priorities for the current-generation Avalon, which was redesigned for the 2013 model year and refreshed for 2016 . During initial development, “We wanted to improve the driving pleasure of the vehicle,” said spokesman Corey Proffitt. To improve the rigidity of the body in terms of handling, we added a V-brace behind the rear seat. This required a solid seating structure. https://www.cars.com/articles/why-do...1420691642123/
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| 290983 (338hp) | I love the folding rear seats and use them weekly. Since I had them in my E60, I wouldn't have bought the F10 without them!
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| 071181 (763hp) | A lot. Other than the seats and hardware, there are no holes in the trunk wall.
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| mk1234 (792hp) | Quote: Originally posted by Terranova Is it possible to fold down the stock rear seat? How much work would that take? Assume you will receive the 5 pieces that make up the split rear seat back cushion and trim. Then you need a few more items: For the bottom of the rear vertical back pad 1. Quantity 1: 52209162853 Center Bracket, Rear ($35.83 each) 2. Quantity 2: 07147124309 M8 x 20mm Torx Screw for Item 1 (1 .43$ each) 3. Quantity 2: 52209162855 Stock End Washer, 1 = Left and 1 = Right ($17.27 each) 4. Quantity 4: 07147116970 M10 x 22mm Button Head Screw for Item 3 ($2.99 each) For top of rear vertical back pad 5. Quantity 1 : 52207112863 Latch Left ($36.01 each) 6. Qty 1: 52207112864 right lock $36.01 each) 7. Quantity 8: 07119906018 M8X12-8.8-ZNS3 Quantity 4 each for items 5 and 6 $1.24 each) 8. Quantity 1: 52207114469 Left actuation, with cable ( $44.32 each) 9. Quantity 2: 52207114470 Actuation right, with cable (44.32 per piece). ) 10. Quantity 8: 07119901299 ST4.8X16-ZNS3 4 pieces each for items 8 and 9 ($0.32 each). So at $258.33 for the bracket, latches and screws the cost is minimal. The cost driver is the cost of the split vertical backrest cushions at the rear, the side cushion panels (left and right) and the Isofix (cutting the covers to the locking points of the car seats)... in the correct leather color, type of leather and heating vs. no heating. Most should not need to replace the lower seat cushion and reuse what is currently in your vehicle (back cushion that you sit on). If you find the back seat parts on eBay (all 5 pieces), in black Dakota leather, without heater, for $400 (which I have for sale), then that would be a $700 upgrade. However, if you have heat merino leather then it might be closer to $600 for the 5 pieces, so that would be a $900 upgrade. Purchasing the pillows in pieces from the dealer would cost well over $2,000. The disassembled parts are very, very heavy, so shipping won't be cheap. I hope this helps if you want to do this as an upgrade. Once you receive all the parts, installation will take an hour or less. Cheers
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| patrick09 (310hp) | You should have already punched out the available mounting points so that you can insert the nylon mounts. Below is a picture of the rear trunk release locations with two nylon inserts installed.....
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| venice (16hp) | Quote: Originally written by wcr3d. Much. Other than the seats and hardware, there are no holes in the trunk wall. I'm curious about it too. I would take my seat back to take a look. There was a solid wall behind the fixed rear seat back.
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| cute23 (447hp) | Removing it will be a bit of a hassle, and don't forget two of the large Torx screws on the bottom that are only accessible after the bottom cushion is removed... and then the rear backseat support is removed, which many don't see all of Access Points Required to Install Split Rear Seats...If you can strip your rear seats down to bare metal, you should have access for retrofitting...no need to remove the rear shelf. Once you get it out and take a photo in the bottom left and bottom right corners of the opening to the trunk, I can show you what feature to look for to install #3 in my post (stock end washer). ...I can photograph the feature required for #1 in my post upon request. Cheers
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| chelsea14 (225hp) | Opening of the rear seat armrest.
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| DAYINAZ (27hp) | I need pictures of your car with the rear seatback removed...and I'll mark the area where you should look for the split folding seatback features.
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| jonboy (748hp) | I just wanted to share a few tips with you. This is a job! Uncomplicated and laborious. Compared to Subaru. It's much more difficult. I made my buddy clutch his 2015 WRX. Removed the engine instead of dropping the transmission. Much easier than this. The N55 oil pan has a difficult time clearing the subframe when the transmission is installed. So I dropped the subframe to pull it out.
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| buddylee (924hp) | Bild
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| junior6 (948hp) | Have good internals?
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| socialbook (27hp) | Nothing remains of the interior except for the dashboard carpet and the headliner
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| chelle1 (772hp) | I just wanted to share a few tips with you. This is a job! Uncomplicated and laborious. Compared to Subaru. It's much more difficult. I made my buddy clutch his 2015 WRX. Removed the engine instead of dropping the transmission. Much easier than this. The N55 oil pan has a difficult time clearing the subframe when the transmission is installed. So I dropped the subframe to pull it out.
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| othello1 (821hp) | Bild
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| artur123 (79hp) | Have good internals?
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| bball30 (139hp) | Nothing remains of the interior except for the dashboard carpet and the headliner
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| jaded1 (461hp) | Hello, I know that many prefer to remove the badges from the trunk. However, I would like to wear them. I have two badges: - 530d badge (I suspect it is placed in the same place on all F11 diesel engines) - must attach? I have an example of a 535d F10. See attached picture. Something similar for F11, a video or instructions would be greatly appreciated. Thanks
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| ellabella1 (752hp) | Anyone?
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| 260786 (811hp) | same position as sedan
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| badboy14 (376hp) | Thanks, but I'm afraid you're not entirely right. On the F10, the 5xx emblem is above the number plate, while on the F11 it is above the taillights. The same goes for the Xdrive badge.
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