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| yoville1 (611hp) | Nice rides!!! I'll look at the option of a roof rack. I didn't even think about it. How heavy are the bikes to load? I plan on taking a few trips out of state. Do you think the shelves would hold up???
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| amber07 (851hp) | Quote: Originally posted by CC424 Happy rides!!! I'll look at the roof rack option. I didn't even think about it. How heavy are the bikes to load? I plan on taking a few trips out of state. Do you think the shelves would hold up? I'm 1.70 m tall and have no problems loading my bike onto the roof rack. The racks themselves are rock solid and I've had two bikes ride on the racks at 75 mph for two to three hours each without any problems. The roof mounted racks are easy to install - it takes me about five minutes +/-. The bike rack is pushed into the slots in the roof rack and then locked. The bikes can also be attached to the luggage rack. I can definitely recommend her.
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| rojo123 (558hp) | Good deal…I appreciate the response!
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| mamoune (362hp) | Quote: Originally posted by CC424 I recently started mountain biking and found a great deal on a Thule 2" bike rack, but only 2 receiver options for the F10. They both cost 568.00 which is more than the carrier. I'm just curious what everyone else is using???? Any help would be appreciated! On a related note, which Thule towbar bike rack are you looking at? I bought a Ford Ranger and now use it for camping. I'm looking at a hitch rack for two bikes and there are many options, ranging in price from inexpensive to ridiculously expensive. Of course, Thule racks are usually the latter, but I trust their quality.
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| pinkstar (202hp) | Quote: Originally posted by cdmulders Quote: Originally posted by CC424 I recently started mountain biking and found a great deal on a 2 Thule bike rack, but only 2 receiver options for the F10. They both cost 568.00 which is more than the carrier. I'm just curious what everyone else is using???? Any help would be appreciated! On a related note, which Thule towbar bike rack are you looking at? I bought a Ford Ranger and now use it for camping. I'm looking at a hitch rack for two bikes and there are many options, ranging in price from inexpensive to ridiculously expensive. Of course, Thule racks are usually the latter, but I trust their quality. Rei has a T2 on offer for 395 plus tax. Actually I ordered it and it eats so I can pick it up but I will return it. I just ordered the roof rack from BMW. Should be ready for pickup today. https://www.rei.com/product/103178/t...8,gclsrc=aw.ds
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| example (106hp) | Have it installed. Some details were left out when installing videos. Pretty frustrating, but it works. Pretty sturdy. I'm just afraid of forgetting the bike is up there, but since I'm so paranoid I probably won't.
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| gervais (21hp) | Quote: Originally written by CC424. Have it installed. Some details were left out when installing videos. Pretty frustrating, but it works. Pretty sturdy. I'm just afraid of forgetting the bike is up there, but since I'm so paranoid I probably won't. Impressive! Yes, I remember now that the initial setup was tedious as I had to fiddle with both ends of each pole to get them to line up with the attachment points on the roof. The good news is that I haven't had to make these adjustments again in the 9 years I've owned the rack and it's now pretty easy to install every time. Quick tip if your rack is like mine: store the racks (when not in use) with the plastic covers closed and locked so the screws stay in. I have found that the screws that screw into the brackets can pop out quite easily and you can lose the cam that fits under the screw that attaches the screw to the rack. Last point: A few cars ago I drove my car and bike, which were on the roof rack, into a carport. The bike and car were damaged. The roof rack was not (also an older Thule rack).).
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| 8181 (134hp) | Just wanted to add: I have a 2.5-29" front tire and the tire rack the rack comes in is mounted to 2.5. Assembly was good, but the bike was a bit wobbly at highway speeds. I swapped the front bike rack for the fat bike rack and it worked like a charm! Just thought I'd share it.
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| chang (606hp) | I recently started mountain biking and found a great deal on a Thule 2" bike rack, but only found two receiver options for the F10. They both cost 568.00 which is more than the carrier. I'm just curious what everyone else is using???? Any help would be appreciated!
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| fishface1 (432hp) | BMW roof rack with BMW bike racks. They look and behave like Thule racks. I'm sure they were a lot cheaper than the price you quoted when I bought them, but then again that was 9 years ago.
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| 100586 (745hp) | Nice rides!!! I'll look at the option of a roof rack. I didn't even think about it. How heavy are the bikes to load? I plan on taking a few trips out of state. Do you think the shelves would hold up???
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| minium (763hp) | Quote: Originally posted by CC424 Happy rides!!! I'll look at the roof rack option. I didn't even think about it. How heavy are the bikes to load? I plan on taking a few trips out of state. Do you think the shelves would hold up? I'm 1.70 m tall and have no problems loading my bike onto the roof rack. The racks themselves are rock solid and I've had two bikes ride on the racks at 75 mph for two to three hours each without any problems. The roof mounted racks are easy to install - it takes me about five minutes +/-. The bike rack is pushed into the slots in the roof rack and then locked. The bikes can also be attached to the luggage rack. I can definitely recommend her.
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| salut123 (796hp) | Good deal…I appreciate the response!
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| 09121985 (803hp) | Quote: Originally posted by CC424 I recently started mountain biking and found a great deal on a Thule 2" bike rack, but only 2 receiver options for the F10. They both cost 568.00 which is more than the carrier. I'm just curious what everyone else is using???? Any help would be appreciated! In this context: Which Thule bike rack for the towbar are you looking for? I bought a Ford Ranger and now use it for camping. I'm looking at a hitch rack for two bikes and there are many options, ranging in price from inexpensive to ridiculously expensive. Of course, Thule racks are usually the latter, but I trust their quality.
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| imation1 (34hp) | Quote: Originally posted by cdmulders Quote: Originally posted by CC424 I recently started mountain biking and found a great deal on a 2 Thule bike rack, but only 2 receiver options for the F10. They both cost 568.00 which is more than the carrier. I'm just curious what everyone else is using???? Any help would be appreciated! On a related note, which Thule towbar bike rack are you looking at? I bought a Ford Ranger and now use it for camping. I'm looking at a hitch rack for two bikes and there are many options available, ranging in price from inexpensive to ridiculously expensive. Of course, Thule racks are usually the latter, but I trust their quality. Rei has a T2 on offer for 395 plus tax. Actually I ordered it and it eats so I can pick it up but I will return it. I just ordered the roof rack from BMW. Should be ready for pickup today. https://www.rei.com/product/103178/t...8,gclsrc=aw.ds
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| kerri (214hp) | Have it installed. Some details were left out when installing videos. Pretty frustrating, but it works. Pretty sturdy. I'm just afraid of forgetting the bike is up there, but since I'm so paranoid I probably won't.
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| marley11 (844hp) | Quote: Originally written by CC424. Have it installed. Some details were left out when installing videos. Pretty frustrating, but it works. Pretty sturdy. I'm just afraid of forgetting the bike is up there, but since I'm so paranoid I probably won't. Impressive! Yes, I remember now that the initial setup was tedious as I had to fiddle with both ends of each pole to get them to line up with the attachment points on the roof. The good news is that I haven't had to make these adjustments again in the 9 years I've owned the rack and it's now pretty easy to install every time. Quick tip if your rack is like mine: store the racks (when not in use) with the plastic covers closed and locked so the screws stay in. I have found that the screws that screw into the brackets can pop out quite easily and you can lose the cam that fits under the screw that attaches the screw to the rack. Last point: A few cars ago I drove my car and bike, which were on the roof rack, into a carport. The bike and car were damaged. The roof rack was not (also an older Thule rack).).
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| dakota (963hp) | Just wanted to add: I have a 2.5-29" front tire and the tire rack the rack comes in is mounted to 2.5. Assembly was good, but the bike was a bit wobbly at highway speeds. I swapped the front bike rack for the fat bike rack and it worked like a charm! Just thought I'd share it.
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| 1sarah (392hp) | The car is a 2012 535xi. I haven't driven my car much in the last month or two, but I've noticed that the engine fan is whirling around erratically. It was very sporadic and I still haven't been able to pinpoint it. I started my car at 6am to drive to work and immediately before I could open my garage door the fan roared. There was constant back and forth throughout the short 5 mile drive to work. A quick search shows me that this is the water pump. I see that FCP Euro sells a kit that includes the pump thermostat and screws, but is there anything else I should replace while I'm there? like hoses, V-ribbed belts? The car has 81,000 miles on it. I bought it almost 3 years ago with 71k, no problems so far.
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| dancer22 (37hp) | Hoses, yes. And anything I need to remove or move when I'm repairing something is scrutinized from every angle.
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| Leo_328i (97hp) | The car is a 2012 535xi. I haven't driven my car much in the last month or two, but I've noticed that the engine fan is whirling around erratically. It was very sporadic and I still haven't been able to pinpoint it. I started my car at 6am to drive to work and immediately before I could open my garage door the fan roared. There was constant back and forth throughout the short 5 mile drive to work. A quick search shows me that this is the water pump. I see that FCP Euro sells a kit that includes the pump thermostat and screws, but is there anything else I should replace while I'm there? like hoses, V-ribbed belts? The car has 81,000 miles on it. I bought it almost 3 years ago with 71k, no problems so far.
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| ou812345 (616hp) | Hoses, yes. And anything I need to remove or move when I'm repairing something is scrutinized from every angle.
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| pool (35hp) | Quote: Originally written by 727jbh E85 is 15% ethanol, not 85% ethanol. E10 is the standard for Florida, with 93 being the highest octane rating for Supreme. Wow, so when you say standard, do you mean you have to get e10? Sad if so.
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| cake123 (889hp) | Quote: Originally posted by delvek Yes, I haven't looked into it much, but a 4.4 liter V8 wouldn't be comfortable if there was no other choice to run an engine with less than 98 RON. I mean, why would 95 RON be better than 98 RON? I will be conducting an experiment in the next few weeks. I will fill up with 99 RON or measure the MPG value and then see if this fuel is the best. Only for my own satisfaction.
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| theorbo (385hp) | Quote: Originally posted by johnbmw6 OK, I just re-read the owner's manual and this is ALL it says about fuels: It is recommended to use 95 ron premium unleaded gasoline. Unleaded fuel qualities with 91ron and higher are permitted. It doesn't say "Required". Probably the British 95 Ron fuel is better than the 98 Ron fuel from other countries!!!! I'm not saying they recommend using RON 98, they recommend using RON 95. But the consumption and performance values are based on RON 98!
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| love97 (797hp) | Quote: Originally written by The German I'm not saying they recommend using RON 98, but that they recommend using RON 95. But the consumption and performance values are based on RON 98! Thank you for the contribution. I'll see what results I get with the 99 RON fuel. Thank you again and no offense if you feel there is any.
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| scooby23 (788hp) | Quote: Originally written by johnbmw6 Thanks for the post, I'll see what results I get with the 99 RON fuel. Thank you again and no offense if you feel there is any. No problem, there's a forum for that! And it's not easy to find, it's not in the manual, just in the brochure. Don't trust the Germans!
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| 224455 (512hp) | Quote: Originally posted by delvek Wow, so when you say standard, do you mean you have to get e10? Sad if so. Regular gasoline without ethanol is no longer available at gas stations because federal and state regulations require the use of ethanol in gasoline. You can thank our clueless US government for mandating ethanol as fuel. With E10 we all lose around 3 to 4 percent in efficiency. Conventional gasoline is only available at Florida marinas.
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| strongbow (17hp) | Does this mandate apply to the entire United States? I'm glad that my 550 doesn't have to be subjected to such a bad diet here in Germany.
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| julian2 (717hp) | There are discussions in the USA about a voluntary introduction of E15. Gas stations can choose what quantity of fuel they want to sell. Currently, by law, all gas stations in the United States sell fuel mixed with up to 10 percent ethanol. I am in the automotive repair industry. I cannot emphasize enough how damaging ethanol is to evaporative systems that are not flex fuel/E85 capable. I often diagnose small leaks caused by the alcohol damaging either rubber lines or sensitive spigots in bleeder solenoids, etc. I'm not sure who is responsible for our terrible fuel, but I blame most of it on lobbyists who care more about financial gain than the supposed benefits of ethanol. The only sensible reason I've heard for our fuel is to reduce foreign dependence. IDK, thanks to a tree hugger I guess. http://in.reuters.com/article/2011/0...22344520110121
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| 14121977 (58hp) | It's really funny. It is slowly becoming clear that this e-fuel and many other environmentally friendly products are extremely expensive and ultimately not as good as the “good old products”. I'm not going to let this forum digress to anything other than BMW, so I'll stop here. Thanks for your insight, Nicolak.
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| lawliet (494hp) | Quote: Originally posted by delvek Does this mandate apply to the entire US? I'm glad that my 550 doesn't have to be subjected to such a bad diet here in Germany. No. Many locations in many states still offer “corn-free” gasoline. You may just have to try a little harder to get it. In the Mid-Atlantic, for example, MD only offers pure gas east of the Chesapeake Bay. In VA, only northern VA counties (similar to those that have emissions controls) ban “corn-free” gas. Pure gas is still available at many locations throughout VA, south of NoVA. This link provides a fairly accurate list of stations offering the "alternative" and I believe it is still regularly updated: http://pure-gas.org/
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| 6060 (661hp) | Quote: Originally posted by delvek Wow, so when you say standard, do you mean you have to get e10? Sad if so. Okay, you have a weird obsession with 98. I don't even understand it. I don't care. I will use the fuel recommended in the manual. Where are you going that requires you to achieve maximum performance at all times? And let's go over your comment again: Sad, if so. No, it's not sad, because it is, and it doesn't harm the car in any way. The way you present yourself is disgusting. Since I have money, I don't care how much I pay for gas that I don't need. All I can say is that I spent more money on my car, which I thought was so great from the start. That's what you sound like. I have money too, and I spend it wherever I want. So if you try to disparage an American because they have to submit to federal law, something we can't change, what good does that do? Does it make you happy to live so much closer to the BMW AG headquarters? Your car is a luxury sedan, a high-performance luxury sedan, but it's not a racing car. It's not a special car, it's an expensive car, it's an expression of concern for driving experience and comfort in one package. GREAT. Leave it at that. Telling us how much you can spend on a car and on gas won't make your dick any bigger, or should I say, any less small. So if you want to be rude to other people when it comes to the decisions they make or are forced to make, then please leave this thread and don't come back until you've busted your head if If you open the car door a few times, the brain damage will at least make you funny and not stupid.
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| andy1999 (116hp) | Quote: Originally posted by delvek I have no evidence, most of the things I do I do without clear evidence. For a buck or two a tank, who cares? At least, as I said, it doesn't help, but between you and me: I can hardly believe it. Why so hard to believe? http://www.caranddriver.com/features...emium_-feature Our tests confirm that for most cars there is no compelling reason to purchase more expensive fuel than the factory recommended, as the performance gains achieved will certainly be far less will be the percentage price increase. Yes, the M3 has lost power. The nominal power is at least 93.
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| jason06 (839hp) | Quote: Originally written by 727jbh E85 is 15% ethanol, not 85% ethanol. E10 is the standard for Florida, with 93 being the highest octane rating for Supreme. 100% wrong. E85 consists of 85% ethanol. http://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/E85
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| mounette (862hp) | Quote: Originally posted by juddholland Okay, you have a weird obsession with 98. I don't even understand it. I don't care. I will use the fuel recommended in the manual. Where are you going that requires you to achieve maximum performance at all times? And let's go over your comment again: Sad, if so. No, it's not sad, because it is, and it doesn't harm the car in any way. The way you present yourself is disgusting. Since I have money, I don't care how much I pay for gas that I don't need. All I can say is that I spent more money on my car, which I thought was so great from the start. That's what you sound like. I have money too, and I spend it wherever I want. So if you try to disparage an American because they have to submit to federal law, something we can't change, what good does that do? Does it make you happy to live so much closer to the BMW AG headquarters? Your car is a luxury sedan, a high-performance luxury sedan, but it's not a racing car. It's not a special car, it's an expensive car, it's an expression of concern for driving experience and comfort in one package. GREAT. Leave it at that. Telling us how much you can spend on a car and on gas won't make your dick any bigger, or should I say, any less small. So if you want to be rude to other people when it comes to the decisions they make or are forced to make, then please leave this thread and don't come back until you've busted your head if If you open the car door a few times, the brain damage will at least make you funny and not stupid. Wow, fucking hilarious. Dude, your vacation is overdue. Seriously. I would simply like to say that ethanol is harmful to cars and most performance tests are published with the caveat that 98 RON fuel is used. So when I spend as much money as I did on a performance luxury sedan, lol, I really think it's a race car. To me it feels that way and it is very special. Is it wrong to decide that I will spend more? Dollar or two for the best gas to not only prevent possible damage to my car but also get the maximum performance benefit since I often drive at speeds around 120 - 140 mph? Even more striking is your intolerance of other people's views. I've looked at many threads since joining this forum and have never seen an answer like this. I have to say, you have some serious issues with tolerance and American principles like freedom of speech, which usually doesn't coincide with telling someone to get out of the thread and don't come back...what are you 4? Ultimately, in real life you have to be a dick you can handle, glad there's an ocean separating us. Bye!
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| 27041979 (288hp) | Quote: Originally posted by delvek. Wow, fucking hilarious. Dude, your vacation is overdue. Seriously. I would simply like to say that ethanol is harmful to cars and most performance tests are published with the caveat that 98 RON fuel is used. So when I spend as much money as I did on a performance luxury sedan, lol, I really think it's a race car. To me it feels that way and it is very special. Is it wrong to decide that I will spend more? Dollar or two for the best gas to not only prevent possible damage to my car but also get the maximum performance benefit since I often drive at speeds around 120 - 140 mph? Even more striking is your intolerance of other people's views. I've looked at many threads since joining this forum and have never seen an answer like this. I have to say, you have some serious issues with tolerance and American principles like freedom of speech, which usually doesn't coincide with telling someone to get out of the thread and don't come back...what are you 4? Ultimately, in real life you have to be a dick you can handle, glad there's an ocean separating us. Bye! Okay, sure, you're too stubborn to understand the motives of this argument. In any case, I'm glad I'm not illiterate like you. Your English might be more reminiscent of Google Translate??
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| rainbow69 (747hp) | (Deleted post, decided not to engage with this guy's vitriol)
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| X E I O (625hp) | Quote: Originally posted by delvek (deleted post, decided not to engage in this guy's vitriol) It's not WRONG that you do it, but showing that you have compassion for those who don't or can't, well, it's just rude.
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| bread1 (347hp) | Ok, here are my findings so far: 99 Ron fuel = 26/27 MPG, some blast 95 Ron fuel = 26/27 MPG, some blast This over a 250 mile round trip, to the same location on the same roads both times . My conclusions are: Use the cheap stuff.
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| 04091979 (425hp) | The European Union has decided that E10 will replace 95 octane throughout the EU. So I expect we'll see more of this. According to BMW in Sweden, this is not a problem as long as you fill the tank with the recommended octane rating. So if the manual says 95, you can use E10. If it says 98, you need to fill your car with 98. E85 is 85% ethanol and 15% gasoline. In winter we switch to 75% ethanol and 25% petrol. But that's for Sweden. // Different
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| destinationhell (231hp) | http://www.e10bensiini.fi/e10_kompatible_motoren/
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| 12121980 (426hp) | Quote: Originally written by delvek. My 550 typically travels at least 100 mph, so fuel economy isn't an issue. I hear you about 95 RON but 98 RON wouldn't be a bad thing, if anything it might have a touch of goodness. On my last 550 I would get 98 RON, but at least 95 RON. eCrap sucks! I'm actually insulted that someone had the nerve to bring it to my local station, which led me to do some research and learn about shit being spread in my community. Hmm... I'm thinking of a slogan... that's your brain on crack = that's your car on eCrap. Costco has 87. 93 octane gasoline. This is recommended ?
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| shadow77 (531hp) | Quote: Originally posted by mahamad23 Costco has 87 &. 93 octane gasoline. What is recommended? 91 is the recommended minimum octane number. That is, use 93.
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| tree12 (520hp) | Quote: Originally written by 727jbh E85 is 15% ethanol, not 85% ethanol. E10 is the standard for Florida, with 93 being the highest octane rating for Supreme. Wow, so when you say standard, do you mean you have to get e10? Sad if so.
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| kenny@velosdesignwerks (116hp) | Quote: Originally posted by delvek Yes, I haven't looked into it much, but a 4.4 liter V8 wouldn't be comfortable if there was no other choice to run an engine with less than 98 RON. I mean, why would 95 RON be better than 98 RON? I will be conducting an experiment in the next few weeks. I will fill up with 99 RON or measure the MPG value and then see if this fuel is the best. Only for my own satisfaction.
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| barbie10 (274hp) | Quote: Originally posted by johnbmw6 OK, I just re-read the owner's manual and this is ALL it says about fuels: It is recommended to use 95 ron premium unleaded gasoline. Unleaded fuel qualities with 91ron and higher are permitted. It doesn't say "Required". Probably the British 95 Ron fuel is better than the 98 Ron fuel from other countries!!!! I'm not saying they recommend using RON 98, they recommend using RON 95. But the consumption and performance values are based on RON 98!
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| taylor01 (943hp) | Quote: Originally written by The German I'm not saying they recommend using RON 98, but that they recommend using RON 95. But the consumption and performance values are based on RON 98! Thank you for the contribution. I'll see what results I get with the 99 RON fuel. Thank you again and no offense if you feel there is any.
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| mystery1 (706hp) | Quote: Originally written by johnbmw6 Thanks for the post, I'll see what results I get with the 99 RON fuel. Thank you again and no offense if you feel there is any. No problem, there's a forum for that! And it's not easy to find, it's not in the manual, just in the brochure. Don't trust the Germans!
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| g00dPa$$w0rD (805hp) | Quote: Originally posted by delvek Wow, so when you say standard, do you mean you have to get e10? Sad if so. Regular gasoline without ethanol is no longer available at gas stations because federal and state regulations require the use of ethanol in gasoline. You can thank our clueless US government for mandating ethanol as fuel. With E10 we all lose around 3 to 4 percent in efficiency. Conventional gasoline is only available at Florida marinas.
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| jakedog1 (678hp) | Does this mandate apply to the entire United States? I'm glad that my 550 doesn't have to be subjected to such a bad diet here in Germany.
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| 71717171 (650hp) | There are discussions in the USA about a voluntary introduction of E15. Gas stations can choose what quantity of fuel they want to sell. Currently, by law, all gas stations in the United States sell fuel mixed with up to 10 percent ethanol. I am in the automotive repair industry. I cannot emphasize enough how damaging ethanol is to evaporative systems that are not flex fuel/E85 capable. I often diagnose small leaks caused by the alcohol damaging either rubber lines or sensitive spigots in bleeder solenoids, etc. I'm not sure who is responsible for our terrible fuel, but I blame most of it on lobbyists who care more about financial gain than the supposed benefits of ethanol. The only sensible reason I've heard for our fuel is to reduce foreign dependence. IDK, thanks to a tree hugger I guess. http://in.reuters.com/article/2011/0...22344520110121
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| jacobo (234hp) | It's really funny. It is slowly becoming clear that this e-fuel and many other environmentally friendly products are extremely expensive and ultimately not as good as the “good old products”. I'm not going to let this forum digress to anything other than BMW, so I'll stop here. Thanks for your insight, Nicolak.
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| informatica (884hp) | Quote: Originally posted by delvek Does this mandate apply to the entire US? I'm glad that my 550 doesn't have to be subjected to such a bad diet here in Germany. No. Many locations in many states still offer “corn-free” gasoline. You may just have to try a little harder to get it. In the Mid-Atlantic, for example, MD only offers pure gas east of the Chesapeake Bay. In VA, only northern VA counties (similar to those that have emissions controls) ban “corn-free” gas. Pure gas is still available at many locations throughout VA, south of NoVA. This link provides a fairly accurate list of stations offering the "alternative" and I believe it is still regularly updated: http://pure-gas.org/
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| 6point (498hp) | Quote: Originally posted by delvek Wow, so when you say standard, do you mean you have to get e10? Sad if so. Okay, you have a weird obsession with 98. I don't even understand it. I don't care. I will use the fuel recommended in the manual. Where are you going that requires you to achieve maximum performance at all times? And let's go over your comment again: Sad, if so. No, it's not sad, because it is, and it doesn't harm the car in any way. The way you present yourself is disgusting. Since I have money, I don't care how much I pay for gas that I don't need. All I can say is that I spent more money on my car, which I thought was so great from the start. That's what you sound like. I have money too, and I spend it wherever I want. So if you try to disparage an American because they have to submit to federal law, something we can't change, what good does that do? Does it make you happy to live so much closer to the BMW AG headquarters? Your car is a luxury sedan, a high-performance luxury sedan, but it's not a racing car. It's not a special car, it's an expensive car, it's an expression of concern for driving experience and comfort in one package. GREAT. Leave it at that. Telling us how much you can spend on a car and on gas won't make your dick any bigger, or should I say, any less small. So if you want to be rude to other people when it comes to the decisions they make or are forced to make, then please leave this thread and don't come back until you've busted your head if If you open the car door a few times, the brain damage will at least make you funny and not stupid.
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| 08111986 (255hp) | Quote: Originally posted by delvek I have no evidence, most of the things I do I do without clear evidence. For a buck or two a tank, who cares? At least, as I said, it doesn't help, but between you and me: I can hardly believe it. Why so hard to believe? http://www.caranddriver.com/features...emium_-feature Our tests confirm that for most cars there is no compelling reason to purchase more expensive fuel than the factory recommended, as the performance gains achieved will certainly be far less will be the percentage price increase. Yes, the M3 has lost power. The nominal power is at least 93.
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| Tuermchen (500hp) | Quote: Originally written by 727jbh E85 is 15% ethanol, not 85% ethanol. E10 is the standard for Florida, with 93 being the highest octane rating for Supreme. 100% wrong. E85 consists of 85% ethanol. http://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/E85
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| Ab7f23rSV (961hp) | Quote: Originally posted by juddholland Okay, you have a weird obsession with 98. I don't even understand it. I don't care. I will use the fuel recommended in the manual. Where are you going that requires you to achieve maximum performance at all times? And let's go over your comment again: Sad, if so. No, it's not sad, because it is, and it doesn't harm the car in any way. The way you present yourself is disgusting. Since I have money, I don't care how much I pay for gas that I don't need. All I can say is that I spent more money on my car, which I thought was so great from the start. That's what you sound like. I have money too, and I spend it wherever I want. So if you try to disparage an American because they have to submit to federal law, something we can't change, what good does that do? Does it make you happy to live so much closer to the BMW AG headquarters? Your car is a luxury sedan, a high-performance luxury sedan, but it's not a racing car. It's not a special car, it's an expensive car, it's an expression of concern for driving experience and comfort in one package. GREAT. Leave it at that. Telling us how much you can spend on a car and on gas won't make your dick any bigger, or should I say, any less small. So if you want to be rude to other people when it comes to the decisions they make or are forced to make, then please leave this thread and don't come back until you've busted your head if If you open the car door a few times, the brain damage will at least make you funny and not stupid. Wow, fucking hilarious. Dude, your vacation is overdue. Seriously. I would simply like to say that ethanol is harmful to cars and most performance tests are published with the caveat that 98 RON fuel is used. So when I spend as much money as I did on a performance luxury sedan, lol, I really think it's a race car. To me it feels that way and it is very special. Is it wrong to decide that I will spend more? Dollar or two for the best gas to not only prevent possible damage to my car but also get the maximum performance benefit since I often drive at speeds around 120 - 140 mph? Even more striking is your intolerance of other people's views. I've looked at many threads since joining this forum and have never seen an answer like this. I have to say, you have some serious issues with tolerance and American principles like freedom of speech, which usually doesn't coincide with telling someone to get out of the thread and don't come back...what are you 4? Ultimately, in real life you have to be a dick you can handle, glad there's an ocean separating us. Bye!
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| damola (189hp) | Quote: Originally posted by delvek. Wow, fucking hilarious. Dude, your vacation is overdue. Seriously. I would simply like to say that ethanol is harmful to cars and most performance tests are published with the caveat that 98 RON fuel is used. So when I spend as much money as I did on a performance luxury sedan, lol, I really think it's a race car. To me it feels that way and it is very special. Is it wrong to decide that I will spend more? Dollar or two for the best gas to not only prevent possible damage to my car but also get the maximum performance benefit since I often drive at speeds around 120 - 140 mph? Even more striking is your intolerance of other people's views. I've looked at many threads since joining this forum and have never seen an answer like this. I have to say, you have some serious issues with tolerance and American principles like freedom of speech, which usually doesn't coincide with telling someone to get out of the thread and don't come back...what are you 4? Ultimately, in real life you have to be a dick you can handle, glad there's an ocean separating us. Bye! Okay, sure, you're too stubborn to understand the motives of this argument. In any case, I'm glad I'm not illiterate like you. Your English might be more reminiscent of Google Translate??
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| r123098 (784hp) | (Deleted post, decided not to engage with this guy's vitriol)
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| 050484 (220hp) | Quote: Originally posted by delvek (deleted post, decided not to engage in this guy's vitriol) It's not WRONG that you do it, but showing that you have compassion for those who don't or can't, well, it's just rude.
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| 101176 (688hp) | Ok, here are my findings so far: 99 Ron fuel = 26/27 MPG, some blast 95 Ron fuel = 26/27 MPG, some blast This over a 250 mile round trip, to the same location on the same roads both times . My conclusions are: Use the cheap stuff.
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| yan123 (567hp) | The European Union has decided that E10 will replace 95 octane throughout the EU. So I expect we'll see more of this. According to BMW in Sweden, this is not a problem as long as you fill the tank with the recommended octane rating. So if the manual says 95, you can use E10. If it says 98, you need to fill your car with 98. E85 is 85% ethanol and 15% gasoline. In winter we switch to 75% ethanol and 25% petrol. But that's for Sweden. // Different
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| cheese88 (245hp) | http://www.e10bensiini.fi/e10_kompatible_motoren/
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| verunka (996hp) | Quote: Originally written by delvek. My 550 typically travels at least 100 mph, so fuel economy isn't an issue. I hear you about 95 RON but 98 RON wouldn't be a bad thing, if anything it might have a touch of goodness. On my last 550 I would get 98 RON, but at least 95 RON. eCrap sucks! I'm actually insulted that someone had the nerve to bring it to my local station, which led me to do some research and learn about shit being spread in my community. Hmm... I'm thinking of a slogan... that's your brain on crack = that's your car on eCrap. Costco has 87. 93 octane gasoline. This is recommended ?
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| lola13 (883hp) | Quote: Originally posted by mahamad23 Costco has 87 &. 93 octane gasoline. What is recommended? 91 is the recommended minimum octane number. That is, use 93.
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| mustang90 (480hp) | Good afternoon everyone, I hope someone can give me some advice on what to do. Yesterday the car drove fine, when I later tried to disarm and unlock the door all four locks didn't work at all. Every time I press the unlock button I hear a whining motor sound (presumably the sound that controls the lock). I tried removing the manual key and opening it manually, no luck, the lever on the door goes up just a little but the door won't unlock. I can't open all 4 windows, that's all. Is there a way to at least unlock the door? I guess all I can do right now is get in the car, lol.
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| help12 (237hp) | Can you unlock any door from inside the car? Or what happens when you use the unlock button on the dashboard? I had similar symptoms earlier this year when an actuator failed. Good luck.
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| fuckyou17 (885hp) | Quote: Originally written by ChiNorm Can you unlock any door from inside the car? Or what happens when you use the unlock button on the dashboard? I had similar symptoms earlier this year when an actuator failed. Good luck. I can't open a door. When you press the unlock button you will hear the same sound as in the video. I just got in the car, my back hurt. LOL. I'm not young anymore. And I have limited space to check the passenger side fuse box. I don't see any blown fuses. Like you said, probably the actuator failed.
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| 420time (831hp) | Quote: Originally written by mbworldz I can't open a door. When you press the unlock button you will hear the same sound as in the video. I just got in the car, my back hurt. LOL. I'm not young anymore. And I have limited space to check the passenger side fuse box. I don't see any blown fuses. Like you said, probably the actuator failed. I think one of Chinorm's points is that there is not ONE actuator, but one in each door, and what you said is that suddenly NO doors are unlocking. The chance that ALL FOUR of your actuators have failed at the same time is almost zero. Have you tried to locate the “whining”? Maybe it's not related to the doors at all - fuel door, fuel pump, Valvetronic engine wipes when unlock button is pressed, etc. You say you tried the mechanical key - did you turn it far enough? Here too, it is possible that a fault in the driver's door lock affects both the electrical and mechanical function of the locking mechanism. This way you wouldn't have lost ALL FOUR DOORS. The mechanical key first triggers a switch to operate the electric doors. Then if you keep turning it, it uses a mechanical connection that works when the battery is dead (but often it has never been used since the car was built and it sticks). Personally, I recommend every owner to familiarize themselves with how the mechanical lockup key works and feels before absolutely needing it. This will also help you determine if lubrication is required. Are you sure the battery is in good condition? I checked the fuses in the trunk?
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| blue52 (475hp) | I also have the same feeling, how could all 4 actuators fail at the same time? In fact, that morning I drove to a nearby ATM and came home. Later, when I go out for lunch, I can't open the door. I got in the car and checked the passenger side fuse box. Oh man, this place is tight, I don't have room to check the top fuses. I've only seen a few. The noise is coming from the trunk, near the fuse box. That's where I find it to be the loudest. Quote: Originally written by Surly73 I think one of Chinorm's points is that there is not ONE actuator, but one in each door, and you said that suddenly NO doors are opening. The chance that ALL FOUR of your actuators have failed at the same time is almost zero. Have you tried to locate the “whining”? Maybe it's not related to the doors at all - fuel door, fuel pump, Valvetronic engine wipes when unlock button is pressed, etc. You say you tried the mechanical key - did you turn it far enough? Here too, it is possible that a fault in the driver's door lock affects both the electrical and mechanical function of the locking mechanism. This way you wouldn't have lost ALL FOUR DOORS. The mechanical key first triggers a switch to operate the electric doors. Then if you keep turning it, it uses a mechanical connection that works when the battery is dead (but often it has never been used since the car was built and it sticks). Personally, I recommend every owner to familiarize themselves with how the mechanical lockup key works and feels before absolutely needing it. This will also help you determine if lubrication is required. Are you sure the battery is in good condition? I checked the fuses in the trunk?
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| 1a2a3a4a5a6a (684hp) | Have you tried the comfort button function? Press the unlock button on the remote control until all windows are down. Then press the lock again to see if the car locks with the beep
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| BGM (548hp) | Quote: I tried removing the manual key and opening it manually, no success, the lever on the door goes up just a little but the door won't unlock. I can't open all 4 windows, that's all. Is there a way to at least unlock the door? I guess all I can do right now is get in the car, lol. Can you delete the bold text? I can't say whether you CAN roll down the windows or NOT. You conclude that it can't be done, but then say the only thing you can do is climb into the car. If you can roll down the windows, simply place the trailer inside, reach in and press the START button. With the engine running you should be able to open all doors and the trunk. If the car's battery is discharged to the point where the engine will no longer start, you can open the hood and connect jumper cables or a battery charger to the terminals in the engine compartment. If you were unable to open the driver's door with the metal key blade, you may not be using it correctly. The manual door lock cylinder in the driver's door should lock/unlock the door when the blade is inserted and rotated to the correct position. It may need to be turned further than you think since you are manually unlocking the door. Or...you may need to spray a lubricant into the lock cylinder if you have never performed manual lock cylinder maintenance...dirt/dust/debris can gum up the work. I suggest trying the manual unlocking method that BMW has developed for access in the event of a power outage. Again, make sure you turn the key fully counterclockwise (if you drive left-hand drive) to manually unlock the driver's door. Then check the remote control battery to make sure it's not dead... and also check your car's main battery... especially if you don't know how old it is.
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| 500062 (592hp) | Hello Qsilver7, the manual blade wrench works perfectly. I used this a month ago. This morning I noticed that my fuel door isn't closed tightly. and stick something on. And when I apply pressure to close and press the unlock button on the remote, I hear different tones on the motor. I suspect it could be a problem with the fuel door. My main question now is: Is there a way to open the fuel door manually for the 2011 F10 5 series? Quote: Originally posted by Qsilver7 If you couldn't open the driver's door with the metal key blade, you may not be using it correctly. The manual door lock cylinder in the driver's door should lock/unlock the door when the blade is inserted and rotated to the correct position. It may need to be turned further than you think since you are manually unlocking the door. Or...you may need to spray a lubricant into the lock cylinder if you have never performed manual lock cylinder maintenance...dirt/dust/debris can gum up the work. I suggest trying the manual unlocking method that BMW has developed for access in the event of a power outage. Again, make sure you turn the key fully counterclockwise (if you drive left-hand drive) to manually unlock the driver's door. Then check the remote control battery to make sure it's not dead... and also check your car's main battery... especially if you don't know how old it is.
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| cerveza1 (738hp) | I started to think the problem might be with the filler door actuator. The noise is very close to this area. And the fuel filler flap isn't tight. I've read other YouTube videos, some older BMWs have the green strip to pull, but I don't see anything to release it manually. Do you know when the pull bar for the emergency mechanism is located? Because as you said, it doesn't make sense for all four door drives to malfunction at the same time. Quote: Originally written by Surly73 I think one of Chinorm's points is that there is not ONE actuator, but one in each door, and you said that suddenly NO doors are opening. The chance that ALL FOUR of your actuators have failed at the same time is almost zero. Have you tried to locate the “whining”? Maybe it's not related to the doors at all - fuel door, fuel pump, Valvetronic engine wipes when unlock button is pressed, etc. You say you tried the mechanical key - did you turn it far enough? Here too, it is possible that a fault in the driver's door lock affects both the electrical and mechanical function of the locking mechanism. This way you wouldn't have lost ALL FOUR DOORS. The mechanical key first triggers a switch to operate the electric doors. Then if you keep turning it, it uses a mechanical connection that works when the battery is dead (but often it has never been used since the car was built and it sticks). Personally, I recommend every owner to familiarize themselves with how the mechanical lockup key works and feels before absolutely needing it. This will also help you determine if lubrication is required. Are you sure the battery is in good condition? I checked the fuses in the trunk?
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| 000111222 (854hp) | Does the paperback owner's manual or iDrive embedded manual provide a description of where the fuel door emergency release cable is located? I have a picture of my F15...and you can see the green tab on the end of the wire hidden in the rear fuse box...just above the folded fuse table. I hope BMW didn't remove it from some models: F15 X5
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| sakuragi (730hp) | I don't have a green tab on my 2011 F10 535i. Quote: Originally posted by Qsilver7 Does the paperback owner's manual or iDrive embedded manual provide a description of where the fuel door emergency release cable is located? I have a picture of my F15... and you can see the green tab on the end of the wire hidden in the rear fuse box... just above the folded fuse index table: F15 X5
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| 124 (902hp) | Quote: Originally written by mbworldz The noise is coming from the trunk, near the fuse box. That's where I find it to be the loudest. This sounds more like where the fuel door latch actuator is located. You never mentioned checking the fuses in the trunk that I asked about, but based on this comment you seem to know there are fuses there... Back in my E39 days, the fuel door locking mechanism failed often and broke. This damages the central locking fuse. I don't think I've heard anything similar for F10. Have you tried turning the mechanical key harder? I would check the fuses in the trunk again.
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| flora (375hp) | The video he posted shows the fuse box on the trunk. I guess he rolls down the windows by pressing the unlock button on the remote. What's strange is that the trunk can be opened, but not all four doors. Quote: Originally written by Surly73. This sounds more like where the fuel door latch actuator is located. You never mentioned checking the fuses in the trunk that I asked about, but based on this comment you seem to know there are fuses there... Back in my E39 days, the fuel door locking mechanism failed often and broke. This damages the central locking fuse. I don't think I've heard anything similar for F10. Have you tried turning the mechanical key harder? I would check the fuses in the trunk again.
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| olgastrashney (917hp) | No, the key fob doesn't work at all. I use the blade key to open the windows manually. The trunk works individually. You can open the trunk without unlocking the doors first. Quote: Originally posted by ceka The video he posted shows the fuse box on the trunk. I guess he rolls down the windows by pressing the unlock button on the remote. What's strange is that the trunk can be opened, but not all four doors.
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| toupie (2hp) | I recently had problems with my trunk lock and thought it was the actuator. I used ISTA, went into the FRM module and did a reset and so far everything works. Do you have ISTA? Do you have a scanner that can read BMW codes??
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| jojo08 (386hp) | I don't have ISTA, I have the ProTool program to search for codes and other things. What about e-systems? I have this program. But I don't know how to reset the footwell module. Quote: Originally posted by chipguy I recently had problems with my trunk lock and thought it was the actuator. I used ISTA, went into the FRM module and did a reset and so far everything works. Do you have ISTA? Do you have a scanner that can read BMW codes??
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| timon1 (631hp) | Can ProTool read BMW codes? I'm using Esys for coding and I believe it can't read codes. Another way to reset the FRM is to disconnect the battery for a few minutes. Of course, be careful not to close the trunk.
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| destiny21 (327hp) | Yes, it can read code, delete... Very powerful tools. I tried disconnecting the battery and waited 30 minutes. still the same. Quote: Originally written by chipguy Is ProTool able to read BMW codes? I'm using Esys for coding and I believe it can't read codes. Another way to reset the FRM is to disconnect the battery for a few minutes. Of course, be careful not to close the trunk.
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| ciaooo (113hp) | Is there any news about your problem? fixed?? Quote: Originally posted by mbworldz Yes, it can read code, delete... Very powerful tools. I tried disconnecting the battery and waited 30 minutes. still the same.
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| amanda5 (952hp) | Still no luck :-( Quote: Originally posted by ceka Any updates on your issue? Fixed??
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| Beaky (198hp) | Good afternoon everyone, I hope someone can give me some advice on what to do. Yesterday the car drove fine, when I later tried to disarm and unlock the door all four locks didn't work at all. Every time I press the unlock button I hear a whining motor sound (presumably the sound that controls the lock). I tried removing the manual key and opening it manually, no luck, the lever on the door goes up just a little but the door won't unlock. I can't open all 4 windows, that's all. Is there a way to at least unlock the door? I guess all I can do right now is get in the car, lol.
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| cvsuser (915hp) | Can you unlock any door from inside the car? Or what happens when you use the unlock button on the dashboard? I had similar symptoms earlier this year when an actuator failed. Good luck.
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| 171189 (951hp) | Quote: Originally written by ChiNorm Can you unlock any door from inside the car? Or what happens when you use the unlock button on the dashboard? I had similar symptoms earlier this year when an actuator failed. Good luck. I can't open a door. When you press the unlock button you will hear the same sound as in the video. I just got in the car, my back hurt. LOL. I'm not young anymore. And I have limited space to check the passenger side fuse box. I don't see any blown fuses. Like you said, probably the actuator failed.
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| 0904 (943hp) | Quote: Originally written by mbworldz I can't open a door. When you press the unlock button you will hear the same sound as in the video. I just got in the car, my back hurt. LOL. I'm not young anymore. And I have limited space to check the passenger side fuse box. I don't see any blown fuses. Like you said, probably the actuator failed. I think one of Chinorm's points is that there is not ONE actuator, but one in each door, and what you said is that suddenly NO doors are unlocking. The chance that ALL FOUR of your actuators have failed at the same time is almost zero. Have you tried to locate the “whining”? Maybe it's not related to the doors at all - fuel door, fuel pump, Valvetronic engine wipes when unlock button is pressed, etc. You say you tried the mechanical key - did you turn it far enough? Here too, it is possible that a fault in the driver's door lock affects both the electrical and mechanical function of the locking mechanism. This way you wouldn't have lost ALL FOUR DOORS. The mechanical key first triggers a switch to operate the electric doors. Then if you keep turning it, it uses a mechanical connection that works when the battery is dead (but often it has never been used since the car was built and it sticks). Personally, I recommend every owner to familiarize themselves with how the mechanical lockup key works and feels before absolutely needing it. This will also help you determine if lubrication is required. Are you sure the battery is in good condition? I checked the fuses in the trunk?
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| p1234567 (94hp) | I also have the same feeling, how could all 4 actuators fail at the same time? In fact, that morning I drove to a nearby ATM and came home. Later, when I go out for lunch, I can't open the door. I got in the car and checked the passenger side fuse box. Oh man, this place is tight, I don't have room to check the top fuses. I've only seen a few. The noise is coming from the trunk, near the fuse box. That's where I find it to be the loudest. Quote: Originally written by Surly73 I think one of Chinorm's points is that there is not ONE actuator, but one in each door, and you said that suddenly NO doors are opening. The chance that ALL FOUR of your actuators have failed at the same time is almost zero. Have you tried to locate the “whining”? Maybe it's not related to the doors at all - fuel door, fuel pump, Valvetronic engine wipes when unlock button is pressed, etc. You say you tried the mechanical key - did you turn it far enough? Here too, it is possible that a fault in the driver's door lock affects both the electrical and mechanical function of the locking mechanism. This way you wouldn't have lost ALL FOUR DOORS. The mechanical key first triggers a switch to operate the electric doors. Then if you keep turning it, it uses a mechanical connection that works when the battery is dead (but often it has never been used since the car was built and it sticks). Personally, I recommend every owner to familiarize themselves with how the mechanical lockup key works and feels before absolutely needing it. This will also help you determine if lubrication is required. Are you sure the battery is in good condition? I checked the fuses in the trunk?
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| 109 (980hp) | Have you tried the comfort button function? Press the unlock button on the remote control until all windows are down. Then press the lock again to see if the car locks with the beep
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| e90.navid (117hp) | Quote: I tried removing the manual key and opening it manually, no success, the lever on the door goes up just a little but the door won't unlock. I can't open all 4 windows, that's all. Is there a way to at least unlock the door? I guess all I can do right now is get in the car, lol. Can you delete the bold text? I can't say whether you CAN roll down the windows or NOT. You conclude that it can't be done, but then say the only thing you can do is climb into the car. If you can roll down the windows, simply place the trailer inside, reach in and press the START button. With the engine running you should be able to open all doors and the trunk. If the car's battery is discharged to the point where the engine will no longer start, you can open the hood and connect jumper cables or a battery charger to the terminals in the engine compartment. If you were unable to open the driver's door with the metal key blade, you may not be using it correctly. The manual door lock cylinder in the driver's door should lock/unlock the door when the blade is inserted and rotated to the correct position. It may need to be turned further than you think since you are manually unlocking the door. Or...you may need to spray a lubricant into the lock cylinder if you have never performed manual lock cylinder maintenance...dirt/dust/debris can gum up the work. I suggest trying the manual unlocking method that BMW has developed for access in the event of a power outage. Again, make sure you turn the key fully counterclockwise (if you drive left-hand drive) to manually unlock the driver's door. Then check the remote control battery to make sure it's not dead... and also check your car's main battery... especially if you don't know how old it is.
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| nalini (374hp) | Hello Qsilver7, the manual blade wrench works perfectly. I used this a month ago. This morning I noticed that my fuel door isn't closed tightly. and stick something on. And when I apply pressure to close and press the unlock button on the remote, I hear different tones on the motor. I suspect it could be a problem with the fuel door. My main question now is: Is there a way to open the fuel door manually for the 2011 F10 5 series? Quote: Originally posted by Qsilver7 If you couldn't open the driver's door with the metal key blade, you may not be using it correctly. The manual door lock cylinder in the driver's door should lock/unlock the door when the blade is inserted and rotated to the correct position. It may need to be turned further than you think since you are manually unlocking the door. Or...you may need to spray a lubricant into the lock cylinder if you have never performed manual lock cylinder maintenance...dirt/dust/debris can gum up the work. I suggest trying the manual unlocking method that BMW has developed for access in the event of a power outage. Again, make sure you turn the key fully counterclockwise (if you drive left-hand drive) to manually unlock the driver's door. Then check the remote control battery to make sure it's not dead... and also check your car's main battery... especially if you don't know how old it is.
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| 0210-605 (959hp) | I started to think the problem might be with the filler door actuator. The noise is very close to this area. And the fuel filler flap isn't tight. I've read other YouTube videos, some older BMWs have the green strip to pull, but I don't see anything to release it manually. Do you know when the pull bar for the emergency mechanism is located? Because as you said, it doesn't make sense for all four door drives to malfunction at the same time. Quote: Originally written by Surly73 I think one of Chinorm's points is that there is not ONE actuator, but one in each door, and you said that suddenly NO doors are opening. The chance that ALL FOUR of your actuators have failed at the same time is almost zero. Have you tried to locate the “whining”? Maybe it's not related to the doors at all - fuel door, fuel pump, Valvetronic engine wipes when unlock button is pressed, etc. You say you tried the mechanical key - did you turn it far enough? Here too, it is possible that a fault in the driver's door lock affects both the electrical and mechanical function of the locking mechanism. This way you wouldn't have lost ALL FOUR DOORS. The mechanical key first triggers a switch to operate the electric doors. Then if you keep turning it, it uses a mechanical connection that works when the battery is dead (but often it has never been used since the car was built and it sticks). Personally, I recommend every owner to familiarize themselves with how the mechanical lockup key works and feels before absolutely needing it. This will also help you determine if lubrication is required. Are you sure the battery is in good condition? I checked the fuses in the trunk?
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| 200583 (76hp) | Does the paperback owner's manual or iDrive embedded manual provide a description of where the fuel door emergency release cable is located? I have a picture of my F15...and you can see the green tab on the end of the wire hidden in the rear fuse box...just above the folded fuse table. I hope BMW didn't remove it from some models: F15 X5
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| sarah14 (960hp) | I don't have a green tab on my 2011 F10 535i. Quote: Originally posted by Qsilver7 Does the paperback owner's manual or iDrive embedded manual provide a description of where the fuel door emergency release cable is located? I have a picture of my F15... and you can see the green tab on the end of the wire hidden in the rear fuse box... just above the folded fuse index table: F15 X5
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| mexican3 (924hp) | Quote: Originally written by mbworldz The noise is coming from the trunk, near the fuse box. That's where I find it to be the loudest. This sounds more like where the fuel door latch actuator is located. You never mentioned checking the fuses in the trunk that I asked about, but based on this comment you seem to know there are fuses there... Back in my E39 days, the fuel door locking mechanism failed often and broke. This damages the central locking fuse. I don't think I've heard anything similar for F10. Have you tried turning the mechanical key harder? I would check the fuses in the trunk again.
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| Ionic (215hp) | The video he posted shows the fuse box on the trunk. I guess he rolls down the windows by pressing the unlock button on the remote. What's strange is that the trunk can be opened, but not all four doors. Quote: Originally written by Surly73. This sounds more like where the fuel door latch actuator is located. You never mentioned checking the fuses in the trunk that I asked about, but based on this comment you seem to know there are fuses there... Back in my E39 days, the fuel door locking mechanism failed often and broke. This damages the central locking fuse. I don't think I've heard anything similar for F10. Have you tried turning the mechanical key harder? I would check the fuses in the trunk again.
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| jcai (825hp) | No, the key fob doesn't work at all. I use the blade key to open the windows manually. The trunk works individually. You can open the trunk without unlocking the doors first. Quote: Originally posted by ceka The video he posted shows the fuse box on the trunk. I guess he rolls down the windows by pressing the unlock button on the remote. What's strange is that the trunk can be opened, but not all four doors.
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| gothic3 (260hp) | I recently had problems with my trunk lock and thought it was the actuator. I used ISTA, went into the FRM module and did a reset and so far everything works. Do you have ISTA? Do you have a scanner that can read BMW codes??
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| croquette (452hp) | I don't have ISTA, I have the ProTool program to search for codes and other things. What about e-systems? I have this program. But I don't know how to reset the footwell module. Quote: Originally posted by chipguy I recently had problems with my trunk lock and thought it was the actuator. I used ISTA, went into the FRM module and did a reset and so far everything works. Do you have ISTA? Do you have a scanner that can read BMW codes??
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| 1qw21qw2 (139hp) | Can ProTool read BMW codes? I'm using Esys for coding and I believe it can't read codes. Another way to reset the FRM is to disconnect the battery for a few minutes. Of course, be careful not to close the trunk.
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| malinda (618hp) | Yes, it can read code, delete... Very powerful tools. I tried disconnecting the battery and waited 30 minutes. still the same. Quote: Originally written by chipguy Is ProTool able to read BMW codes? I'm using Esys for coding and I believe it can't read codes. Another way to reset the FRM is to disconnect the battery for a few minutes. Of course, be careful not to close the trunk.
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| finger (301hp) | Is there any news about your problem? fixed?? Quote: Originally posted by mbworldz Yes, it can read code, delete... Very powerful tools. I tried disconnecting the battery and waited 30 minutes. still the same.
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| DD415F10 (984hp) | Still no luck :-( Quote: Originally posted by ceka Any updates on your issue? Fixed??
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| frdfvfhby (963hp) | Hello everyone, has anyone heard noises like those in the two videos? It's hard to explain it. I suspect something is slipping to something else where it doesn't belong. My mechanic checked it but he can't find anything visible. No bearings, no brakes either, shafts look ok, no play at the connections. It only happens under load (accelerating or braking with the engine). The transfer takes place automatically. It is loudest at low speeds, barely audible on the highway and at higher frequencies. The tone does not change when switching. https://www.youtube.com/shorts/S-8vefbqn-Y https://www.youtube.com/shorts/-psg0e9gzGw
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| frimousse (85hp) | Hello everyone, has anyone heard noises like those in the two videos? It's hard to explain it. I suspect something is slipping to something else where it doesn't belong. My mechanic checked it but he can't find anything visible. No bearings, no brakes either, shafts look ok, no play at the connections. It only happens under load (accelerating or braking with the engine). The transfer takes place automatically. It is loudest at low speeds, barely audible on the highway and at higher frequencies. The tone does not change when switching. https://www.youtube.com/shorts/S-8vefbqn-Y https://www.youtube.com/shorts/-psg0e9gzGw
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| melon (31hp) | So I get a daytime running/parking light error and my angel eyes in the passenger side headlights are dim. The yellow part of the parking light works perfectly. There is no sign of water entering the headlight, which I know is a problem. Has anyone else had this problem and been able to solve it? I hope that replacing the headlight or an expensive module is not necessary.
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| stic57 (186hp) | I'm not sure if this is also the issue you're referring to: https://f10.5post.com/forums/showthread.php?t=1412604
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| sternchen1 (432hp) | So I get a daytime running/parking light error and my angel eyes in the passenger side headlights are dim. The yellow part of the parking light works perfectly. There is no sign of water entering the headlight, which I know is a problem. Has anyone else had this problem and been able to solve it? I hope that replacing the headlight or an expensive module is not necessary.
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| Fifihere (820hp) | I'm not sure if this is also the issue you're referring to: https://f10.5post.com/forums/showthread.php?t=1412604
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| whitedog (154hp) | Hello everyone, I just joined and have an issue that I hope someone can help with. According to the title I recently purchased a white 520SE 2015 LCI, it comes with the basic ROUTE card (2015 version) and when I tried to get the FSC I got an error saying I couldn't write the FSC to the file . I read in the forum that the FSC cannot be drawn on the HU_ENTRYNAV with the Esys/ENET combination. An FSC code came with the car, but this must have been intended for one-time use only and does not work. Can someone please help me either provide the FSC or tell me how to get it? The last 7 chassis numbers are: G211665. Thank you!
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| 147896325a (497hp) | Hey, this post is still there, unfortunately I didn't receive a response! I thought I would update it, but managed to get an FSC from an unofficial source for Ј20 and was able to update to the 2020 map. I installed a 12" Android GPS head unit (last year) and have been using Google Maps and Android Auto ever since, much better than the BM maps you get on the EntryNAV (Route) head units. The price of the device wasn't too bad (420 euros with free rear camera from AliExpress) and the installation was quite easy, there are plenty of videos on YouTube.
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| london! (67hp) | Quote: Originally written by eagleman1 Hey, this post is still here, unfortunately I didn't receive a reply! I thought I would update it but managed to get a FSC from an unofficial source for 20 and was able to update to the 2020 map. I installed a 12" Android GPS head unit (last year) and have been using Google Maps and Android Auto ever since, much better than the BM maps you get on the EntryNAV (Route) head units. The price of the device wasn't too bad (420 with free rear camera from AliExpress) and the installation was quite easy, there are plenty of videos on YouTube. How much did it cost to update BMW navigation? Did you get the BMW service centers for it or did you do it yourself? ?
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| bouba (289hp) | Hello everyone, I just joined and have an issue that I hope someone can help with. According to the title I recently purchased a white 520SE 2015 LCI, it comes with the basic ROUTE card (2015 version) and when I tried to get the FSC I got an error saying I couldn't write the FSC to the file . I read in the forum that the FSC cannot be drawn on the HU_ENTRYNAV with the Esys/ENET combination. An FSC code came with the car, but this must have been intended for one-time use only and does not work. Can someone please help me either provide the FSC or tell me how to get it? The last 7 chassis numbers are: G211665. Thank you!
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| omari1 (911hp) | Hey, this post is still there, unfortunately I didn't receive a response! I thought I would update it, but managed to get an FSC from an unofficial source for Ј20 and was able to update to the 2020 map. I installed a 12" Android GPS head unit (last year) and have been using Google Maps and Android Auto ever since, much better than the BM maps you get on the EntryNAV (Route) head units. The price of the device wasn't too bad (420 euros with free rear camera from AliExpress) and the installation was quite easy, there are plenty of videos on YouTube.
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| mitzie (985hp) | Quote: Originally written by eagleman1 Hey, this post is still here, unfortunately I didn't receive a response! I thought I would update it but managed to get a FSC from an unofficial source for 20 and was able to update to the 2020 map. I installed a 12" Android GPS head unit (last year) and have been using Google Maps and Android Auto ever since, much better than the BM maps you get on the EntryNAV (Route) head units. The price of the device wasn't too bad (420 with free rear camera from AliExpress) and the installation was quite easy, there are plenty of videos on YouTube. How much did it cost to update BMW navigation? Did you get the BMW service centers for it or did you do it yourself? ?
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| 4848 (830hp) | 550I use 93
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| 190490 (656hp) | Quote: Originally posted by ezaircon4jc 91 is the minimum recommended octane rating. That is, use 93.
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