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| watermelon1 (56hp) | Quote: Originally written by Bayerish Traveler Hello everyone, my 13 535i does not have a fuel filter under the body. Do you think it is possible to install it? I saw here that there is a fuel filter but I don't have it on my car https://www.etkbmw.com/bmw/EN/search...5i/ECE/16_0776 I think it is in the tank.
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| eliska (800hp) | The fuel filter is located in the fuel tank and realistically requires no maintenance over the expected life of the vehicle.
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| 18021992 (856hp) | Hello. 2011 BMW 535I. I look under the vehicle and I don't have a fuel filter either. I called BMW and they said this car doesn't have a filter. Does anyone know anything else? I know there is some kind of slurry under the fuel pump suction tube in the tank. I don't like that.
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| junkjunk (679hp) | You could get these in-line filters, but to be honest the filter in the pumps (the mesh is just a pre-filter) is more than sufficient. https://www.summitracing.com/parts/sum-230116-b
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| sting1 (504hp) | No fuel filter required. I've covered 285,000 miles and I'm still running pretty well.
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| toy (637hp) | Yes, the filter is located in the tank attached to the LPFP. It holds the pump assembly in place but can be pulled apart. I took mine out after 87km but to be honest it didn't look too dirty.
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| live (761hp) | Hello, I'm sorry if I'm repeating myself or missing information. I'm new to this so please be patient. I recently (last month) purchased a 2011 550i 65K with mileage and like new condition from a first owner (a friend of mine). No problem with the car or engine other than having to add oil every now and then (my friend told me there should be 1-2 qt between oil changes). I took my car to the dealer for an oil change three days ago and they told me about the N63 complaint and the test, so I left it with them and they gave me a loaner. I received a call today and was told that the test failed and that the repair (new valve stem seals) is free and a free oil change will be performed once the job is complete. However, the warranty after repair and re-testing is only 30 days. My questions: Has anyone had a similar situation with problems after repair? What else do I need to consider when my car is finished and is a 30-day warranty normal after such a repair? And does my battery need to be replaced as part of the N63 claim? Thank you and I will keep you updated
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| lilman07 (168hp) | I had mine done a year ago and the oil level dropped to three quarters of full line before the next oil change. It's much better than before..
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| 7845120 (543hp) | Quote: Originally posted by kohsin I had mine done a year ago and the oil level dropped to 3/4 of full line before the next oil change. It's much better than before. Thank you for the answer. The dealer told me it should be ready in about a week, the technician was very reassuring on the phone, but this was my first time dealing with a BMW dealer and the oil consumption wasn't even my concern that they were working on my engine (9 year old car with dried out plastic hoses and seals). You also replaced your battery ?
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| Dave-FLPE (600hp) | The CCP should take care of the one-time battery change. In 2015 the battery was replaced with a 105 Ah battery. You may want to check with them.
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| 12031984 (472hp) | Quote: Originally written by kohsin The CCP should take care of the one-time battery change. In 2015 the battery was replaced with a 105 Ah battery. You may want to check with them. will do..cheers
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| buffy (768hp) | Quote: Originally written by kohsin The CCP should take care of the one-time battery change. In 2015 the battery was replaced with a 105 Ah battery. You may want to check with them. Also. I had my seals done in May 2019 and haven't had a single oil consumption problem since. I went from changing oil a quart a week before having to top up, but I change at 3,500 miles but always have. I've had a cooling issue where I was finally able to replace everything, and recently a bad turbo, but otherwise a bad spark plug... the engine is strong. Only the rear dyno, but I felt my car was a lot more responsive and that's the reason I went for upgraded turbos because I think the engine can handle it now. But after the seals were done, I itemized every single item on my invoice and it came to over $17,000. I ended up paying $1,200 for injectors and that was it. They replace hoses, bolts, gaskets, motor mounts, LPFP and a bunch of other things. I'll have to look at my receipts, but I'm pretty sure I have a two year warranty on anything touched during the job. Maybe it was one of the things we asked for, but I'm almost certain I have two years. You should ask the same thing
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| ilovepie1 (49hp) | Quote: Originally posted by 550bye Same here. I had my seals done in May 2019 and haven't had a single oil consumption problem since. I went from changing oil a quart a week before having to top up, but I change at 3,500 miles but always have. I've had a cooling issue where I was finally able to replace everything, and recently a bad turbo, but otherwise a bad spark plug... the engine is strong. Only the rear dyno, but I felt my car was a lot more responsive and that's the reason I went for upgraded turbos because I think the engine can handle it now. But after the seals were done, I itemized every single item on my invoice and it came to over $17,000. I ended up paying $1,200 for injectors and that was it. They replace hoses, bolts, gaskets, motor mounts, LPFP and a bunch of other things. I'll have to look at my receipts, but I'm pretty sure everything touched during the job has a two year warranty. It may have been one of our demands, but I'm almost certain I have two years. You should ask the same thing. Thanks for the info... the car is still at the dealer (two weeks now). I also understand that it's a holiday, so I'm not rushing it. I'll have to wait and see what else they had to replace. I was hesitant to let them do the work for two reasons: A) I didn't own the car long enough to notice the oil consumption. and B) the car and engine are new, have no leaks, and no bad history (a very well-maintained vehicle), so I didn't want to introduce problems that didn't exist to begin with. I hope for the best and will post here for updates. If you have your bills and don't mind passing them on, I would greatly appreciate it. Thanks again...cheers
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| mikee (229hp) | Quote: Originally written by CC_hvac Thanks for the info... the car is still at the dealer (two weeks now). I also understand that it's a holiday, so I'm not rushing it. I'll have to wait and see what else they had to replace. I was hesitant to let them do the work for two reasons: A) I didn't own the car long enough to notice the oil consumption. and B) the car and engine are new, have no leaks, and no bad history (a very well-maintained vehicle), so I didn't want to introduce problems that didn't exist to begin with. I hope for the best and will post here for updates. If you have your bills and don't mind passing them on, I would be very grateful. Thanks again. I hope everything goes smoothly for you. I think it's the right thing to do because there are definitely potential sources of failure (even with a well-maintained engine) that can be resolved with this service measure. I am pleased that you were able to qualify for costs to be covered by BMW. I personally know only one other N63 owner who has had this work done, and his experience was that the engine ran great for well over 100,000 miles after the job before a collision resulted in total loss. Hopefully this prepares you for a long and relatively trouble-free ownership experience. Relax and enjoy!
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| incase322 (820hp) | Quote: Originally posted by philipm785 We hope everything goes smoothly for you. I think it's the right thing to do because there are definitely potential sources of failure (even with a well-maintained engine) that can be resolved with this service measure. I am pleased that you were able to qualify for costs to be covered by BMW. I personally know only one other N63 owner who has had this work done, and his experience was that the engine ran great for well over 100,000 miles after the job before a collision resulted in total loss. Hopefully this prepares you for a long and relatively trouble-free ownership experience. Relax and enjoy! Thank you
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| Unique F10 (694hp) | OK, first of all HAPPY NEW YEAR EVERYONE. So BMW called me and told me that my car was finally ready. YASSSSSSS, unfortunately I won't be able to pick it up until next week (I'm having a lot of fun with the loaner they gave me, lol). You sent me the invoice here, can someone please check it? They did it and explained (in plain language) what was replaced and what they did and most importantly if anything was missing or should have been done. There's no mention of the number of pieces, but from what I'm reading it looks like I'm getting the deal of the century. When I pick up the car I will know for sure. Wondering how much this would normally cost? And what do I have to pay attention to when I pick it up? (How long should the warranty last for this type of repair?) Thank you everyone, I wish you a blessed new year
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| budweiser2 (866hp) | Quote: Originally posted by CC_hvac. They sent me the bill. Can someone please check what they did and explain (in plain English) what was replaced and what they did and most importantly if anything is missing or should have been done? . the number of parts is not mentioned, ... Since you have the actual 11 digit BMW part numbers (xx xx x xxx xxx), you can easily look up these part numbers to see what they are and the quantities are. You can simply type (or copy and paste) “BMW xx xx x xxx xxx” (where x = the actual numbers) into a Google search box or use one of the online parts database sites such as www.realoem.com https://bimmercat. com To do a quick copy and paste from a Google search box, simply add a W after the BM and add a space between the letters and numbers in your part number list. BMW part numbers only contain 11 numerical digits (no letters).).
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| 28031980 (171hp) | They wrote it in pretty simple English. As for the cost in a BMW workshop, probably around 5,000. Warranty, this is getting weird, just from experience, if the customer pays for the work there is a one year warranty, if BMW pays for the work there is no warranty.
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| same (268hp) | Your repair list is pretty close to my list. My SA told me it's between $7,000 and $9,000.
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| valval (688hp) | https://www.bimmerpost.com/forums/sh...php?p=24795791 Surprisingly, your list is much shorter than mine. I looked into the SA and got all the prices from Realoem.com, which totaled over $16,000, but that was retail and premium labor costs, it probably ended up costing BMW around $2,000 or $3,000. You can look through the link and compare it with your list. I'm glad to hear you got it back. I've been waiting two months now for the turbo upgrade, the turbos were stuck at the overhaul company for about a month and I was promised it would be done early next week. But when you get your car back, just record the oil changes, but my oil usage has been night and day, I still burn a lot of oil, but I don't need to add a quart every now and then and do an oil change every 3,500 miles. Good luck with the car and happy new year.
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| insert1 (49hp) | Quote: Originally posted by 550bye https://www.bimmerpost.com/forums/sh...php?p=24795791 Surprisingly, your list is much shorter than mine. I looked into the SA and got all the prices from Realoem.com, which totaled over $16,000, but that was retail and premium labor costs, it probably ended up costing BMW around $2,000 or $3,000. You can look through the link and compare it with your list. I'm glad to hear you got it back. I've been waiting for a turbo upgrade for two months now, the turbos were stuck at the overhaul company for about a month and I was promised it would be done early next week. But when you get your car back just record the oil changes, but my oil usage has been night and day, I still burn a lot of oil but I don't need to add a quart every now and then and do every oil change 3,500 miles. Good luck with the car and happy new year. Thanks for sharing and good luck with your car. I still haven't picked up my car, will do so next week with fingers crossed, on paper it sounds like a great deal
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| 75757575 (735hp) | Thank you everyone for your help
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| fernando12 (532hp) | OK, so I wanted to update you as promised. I picked up my car five days ago and drove it, and I'm happy to say that, other than the raised battery drain warning (I suspect it is). parked for a while) So far everything is great. No warning lights, drives smoothly, sounds great and powerful as always. Thank you all for your help. And I want you to meet her. Here she is, my baby
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| nicole (4hp) | Thanks for sharing the picture – beautiful car! I'm glad to hear that everything is fine after the updates. Enjoy!
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| mattnourse (534hp) | I thought you had to have a front license plate in California?
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| eagleone (197hp) | Quote: Originally written by Trian You thought you had to have a front license plate in California? True, but... It's only illegal if they catch you, plus it ruins the look of the car
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| home (465hp) | Quote: Originally written by Trian You thought you had to have a front license plate in California? I haven't had one in about 20 years. The only repair ticket I got for it was in Nebraska!
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| elaineh (913hp) | Update: Today the powertrain malfunction warning surfaced. I sent it to BMW to see what was going on. It drove fine for about 100 miles before this happened. I hope it's nothing serious...
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| blazed (420hp) | Hello, I'm sorry if I'm repeating myself or missing information. I'm new to this so please be patient. I recently (last month) purchased a 2011 550i 65K with mileage and like new condition from a first owner (a friend of mine). No problem with the car or engine other than having to add oil every now and then (my friend told me there should be 1-2 qt between oil changes). I took my car to the dealer for an oil change three days ago and they told me about the N63 complaint and the test, so I left it with them and they gave me a loaner. I received a call today and was told that the test failed and that the repair (new valve stem seals) is free and a free oil change will be performed once the job is complete. However, the warranty after repair and re-testing is only 30 days. My questions: Has anyone had a similar situation with problems after repair? What else do I need to consider when my car is finished and is a 30-day warranty normal after such a repair? And does my battery need to be replaced as part of the N63 claim? Thank you and I will keep you updated
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| piranha (343hp) | I had mine done a year ago and the oil level dropped to three quarters of full line before the next oil change. It's much better than before..
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| 090483 (339hp) | Quote: Originally posted by kohsin I had mine done a year ago and the oil level dropped to 3/4 of full line before the next oil change. It's much better than before. Thank you for the answer. The dealer told me it should be ready in about a week, the technician was very reassuring on the phone, but this was my first time dealing with a BMW dealer and the oil consumption wasn't even my concern that they were working on my engine (9 year old car with dried out plastic hoses and seals). You also replaced your battery ?
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| samdog1 (431hp) | The CCP should take care of the one-time battery change. In 2015 the battery was replaced with a 105 Ah battery. You may want to check with them.
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| bigbuck (185hp) | Quote: Originally written by kohsin The CCP should take care of the one-time battery change. In 2015 the battery was replaced with a 105 Ah battery. You may want to check with them. will do..cheers
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| werner1 (679hp) | Quote: Originally written by kohsin The CCP should take care of the one-time battery change. In 2015 the battery was replaced with a 105 Ah battery. You may want to check with them. Also. I had my seals done in May 2019 and haven't had a single oil consumption problem since. I went from changing oil a quart a week before having to top up, but I change at 3,500 miles but always have. I've had a cooling issue where I was finally able to replace everything, and recently a bad turbo, but otherwise a bad spark plug... the engine is strong. Only the rear dyno, but I felt my car was a lot more responsive and that's the reason I went for upgraded turbos because I think the engine can handle it now. But after the seals were done, I itemized each item on my invoice and the amount came to over $17,000. I ended up paying $1,200 for injectors and that was it. They replace hoses, bolts, gaskets, motor mounts, LPFP and a bunch of other things. I'll have to look at my receipts, but I'm pretty sure I have a two year warranty on anything touched during the job. Maybe it was one of the things we asked for, but I'm almost certain I have two years. You should ask the same thing
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| Travelfreek (323hp) | Quote: Originally posted by 550bye Same here. I had my seals done in May 2019 and haven't had a single oil consumption problem since. I went from changing oil a quart a week before having to top up, but I change at 3,500 miles but always have. I've had a cooling issue where I was finally able to replace everything, and recently a bad turbo, but otherwise a bad spark plug... the engine is strong. Only the rear dyno, but I felt my car was a lot more responsive and that's the reason I went for upgraded turbos because I think the engine can handle it now. But after the seals were done, I itemized every single item on my invoice and it came to over $17,000. I ended up paying $1,200 for injectors and that was it. They replace hoses, bolts, gaskets, motor mounts, LPFP and a bunch of other things. I'll have to look at my receipts, but I'm pretty sure everything touched during the job has a two year warranty. It may have been one of our demands, but I'm almost certain I have two years. You should ask the same thing. Thanks for the info... the car is still at the dealer (two weeks now). I also understand that it's a holiday, so I'm not rushing it. I'll have to wait and see what else they had to replace. I was hesitant to let them do the work for two reasons: A) I didn't own the car long enough to notice the oil consumption. and B) the car and engine are new, have no leaks, and no bad history (a very well-maintained vehicle), so I didn't want to introduce problems that didn't exist to begin with. I hope for the best and will post here for updates. If you have your bills and don't mind passing them on, I would greatly appreciate it. Thanks again...cheers
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| meeka1 (493hp) | Quote: Originally written by CC_hvac Thanks for the info... the car is still at the dealer (two weeks now). I also understand that it's a holiday, so I'm not rushing it. I'll have to wait and see what else they had to replace. I was hesitant to let them do the work for two reasons: A) I didn't own the car long enough to notice the oil consumption. and B) the car and engine are new, have no leaks, and no bad history (a very well-maintained vehicle), so I didn't want to introduce problems that didn't exist to begin with. I hope for the best and will post here for updates. If you have your bills and don't mind passing them on, I would be very grateful. Thanks again. I hope everything goes smoothly for you. I think it's the right thing to do because there are definitely potential sources of failure (even with a well-maintained engine) that can be resolved with this service measure. I am pleased that you were able to qualify for costs to be covered by BMW. I personally know only one other N63 owner who has had this work done, and his experience was that the engine ran great for well over 100,000 miles after the job before a collision resulted in total loss. Hopefully this prepares you for a long and relatively trouble-free ownership experience. Relax and enjoy!
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| princess81 (48hp) | Quote: Originally posted by philipm785 We hope everything goes smoothly for you. I think it's the right thing to do because there are definitely potential sources of failure (even with a well-maintained engine) that can be resolved with this service measure. I am pleased that you were able to qualify for costs to be covered by BMW. I personally know only one other N63 owner who has had this work done, and his experience was that the engine ran great for well over 100,000 miles after the job before a collision resulted in total loss. Hopefully this prepares you for a long and relatively trouble-free ownership experience. Relax and enjoy! Thank you
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| shuhrat007 (909hp) | OK, first of all HAPPY NEW YEAR EVERYONE. So BMW called me and told me that my car was finally ready. YASSSSSSS, unfortunately I won't be able to pick it up until next week (I'm having a lot of fun with the loaner they gave me, lol). You sent me the invoice here, can someone please check it? They did it and explained (in plain language) what was replaced and what they did and most importantly if anything was missing or should have been done. There's no mention of the number of pieces, but from what I'm reading it looks like I'm getting the deal of the century. When I pick up the car I will know for sure. Wondering how much this would normally cost? And what do I have to pay attention to when I pick it up? (How long should the warranty last for this type of repair?) Thank you everyone, I wish you a blessed new year
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| sasha1996 (953hp) | Quote: Originally posted by CC_hvac. They sent me the bill. Can someone please check what they did and explain (in plain English) what was replaced and what they did and most importantly if anything is missing or should have been done? . the number of parts is not mentioned, ... Since you have the actual 11 digit BMW part numbers (xx xx x xxx xxx), you can easily look up these part numbers to see what they are and the quantities are. You can simply type (or copy and paste) “BMW xx xx x xxx xxx” (where x = the actual numbers) into a Google search box or use one of the online parts database sites such as www.realoem.com https://bimmercat. com To do a quick copy and paste from a Google search box, simply add a W after the BM and add a space between the letters and numbers in your part number list. BMW part numbers only contain 11 numerical digits (no letters).).
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| gregg (809hp) | They wrote it in pretty simple English. As for the cost in a BMW workshop, probably around 5,000. Warranty, this is getting weird, just from experience, if the customer pays for the work there is a one year warranty, if BMW pays for the work there is no warranty.
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| dasha2010 (872hp) | Your repair list is pretty close to my list. My SA told me it's between $7,000 and $9,000.
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| yo2002 (37hp) | https://www.bimmerpost.com/forums/sh...php?p=24795791 Surprisingly, your list is much shorter than mine. I looked into the SA and got all the prices from Realoem.com, which totaled over $16,000, but that was retail and premium labor costs, it probably ended up costing BMW around $2,000 or $3,000. You can look through the link and compare it with your list. I'm glad to hear you got it back. I've been waiting two months now for the turbo upgrade, the turbos were stuck at the overhaul company for about a month and I was promised it would be done early next week. But when you get your car back, just record the oil changes, but my oil usage has been night and day, I still burn a lot of oil, but I don't need to add a quart every now and then and do an oil change every 3,500 miles. Good luck with the car and happy new year.
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| alberto12 (390hp) | Quote: Originally posted by 550bye https://www.bimmerpost.com/forums/sh...php?p=24795791 Surprisingly, your list is much shorter than mine. I looked into the SA and got all the prices from Realoem.com, which totaled over $16,000, but that was retail and premium labor costs, it probably ended up costing BMW around $2,000 or $3,000. You can look through the link and compare it with your list. I'm glad to hear you got it back. I've been waiting for a turbo upgrade for two months now, the turbos were stuck at the overhaul company for about a month and I was promised it would be done early next week. But when you get your car back just record the oil changes, but my oil usage has been night and day, I still burn a lot of oil but I don't need to add a quart every now and then and do every oil change 3,500 miles. Good luck with the car and happy new year. Thanks for sharing and good luck with your car. I still haven't picked up my car, will do so next week with fingers crossed, on paper it sounds like a great deal
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| real12 (406hp) | Thank you everyone for your help
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| ajackson (31hp) | OK, so I wanted to update you as promised. I picked up my car five days ago and drove it, and I'm happy to say that, other than the raised battery drain warning (I suspect it is). parked for a while) So far everything is great. No warning lights, drives smoothly, sounds great and powerful as always. Thank you all for your help. And I want you to meet her. Here she is, my baby
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| 130682 (312hp) | Thanks for sharing the picture – beautiful car! I'm glad to hear that everything is fine after the updates. Enjoy!
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| 198704 (231hp) | I thought you had to have a front license plate in California?
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| marie6 (151hp) | Quote: Originally written by Trian You thought you had to have a front license plate in California? True, but... It's only illegal if they catch you, plus it ruins the look of the car
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| angel999 (296hp) | Quote: Originally written by Trian You thought you had to have a front license plate in California? I haven't had one in about 20 years. The only repair ticket I got for it was in Nebraska!
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| eatme2 (649hp) | Update: Today the powertrain malfunction warning surfaced. I sent it to BMW to see what was going on. It drove fine for about 100 miles before this happened. I hope it's nothing serious...
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| 19841224 (294hp) | My dad has a 2011 535i and it's a lemon. An independent shop just did the valve cover gasket and we got it back but it stayed put. The guy said a hose wasn't attached properly. We brought it home and suddenly there was a bang and the car stopped. I don't want to go into gear. We looked under the hood and discovered that the charging line was broken. Dressed again and went home. I drove it a few times and then stopped again and the charging line was broken. We are now waiting for the replacement. But I ran it today and it stopped twice for no apparent reason. The first time it happened I got the code for the injectors and then the codes for the fuel pump. Now I get about 20 strange codes. I think the charge pipe has nothing to do with the stalling problem. Any idea what to check first? I also have a problem with the drive train. Oh, and now it's blowing white smoke out of the exhaust too. Thanks!
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| Johnhelliwell (654hp) | I don't want to say that I have any idea what is wrong with your car, but if I were I would open the hood, remove the plastic engine cover and check the entire engine wiring harness in and around the valve cover. I would look at ALL of the brown thick wires and their ground location to make sure they are all connected and tight (with a 10mm socket)... and then I would use a digital multimeter to check that the ground wires compare to the Cases are ground is less than 1 ohm...... ....but that's what I would do... Good luck.
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| 151080 (529hp) | Because you didn't put it in the garage and wait to replace the part, you could ruin other systems. It can be all of the above
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| 11101978 (703hp) | Quote: Originally posted by M_Bimmer I don't want to say that I have any idea what is wrong with your car, but if I were I would open the hood, remove the plastic engine cover and the entire engine wiring harness in and around the car Check around valve cover. I would look at ALL of the brown thick wires and their ground location to make sure they are all connected and tight (with a 10mm socket)... and then I would use a digital multimeter to check that the ground wires compare to the Cases are ground is less than 1 ohm...... ....but that's what I would do... Good luck. Thanks man. I have a multimeter. Now I just need to figure out how to use it. But why do you think it has to do with the wires??
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| dinero1 (304hp) | And the start is anything but smooth. Rough idle.
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| 13071981 (380hp) | Quote: Originally posted by BBHMM, since you didn't put it in the garage and wait to replace a part, you could ruin other systems. It can be anything from above. It's in the garage now and I just left it running to see what happened. I'm worried about the white smoke, but I don't think the charging line problem is related to the other problems.
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| 190889 (602hp) | It would help us to help you if you would post the codes with definitions
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| danny23 (369hp) | How old is the gasoline, where is it purchased and what is its octane rating???
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| bigbitch1 (704hp) | Quote: Originally written by ezaircon4jc How old is the gasoline, where is it purchased and what is its octane rating? He drives a lot, so the petrol engine is fairly new. I would hope 93. But I think he goes to a convenience store, so I'm curious about the quality of the gas and maybe that could be the cause of the problems?
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| musika (919hp) | Quote: Originally written by Trainwreck914. It would help us to help you if you post the codes with definitions 213604 D02d02 Do2d03 Do2do4 Do2do5 INFO 482627 1cffe9 Info67000a Info100100 Info11a401 and 11b C90c96. These were the codes I just got. When he first picked it up he had the injector code and a few others. Also the check engine light is always on which we are trying to fix because he needs to get it checked. That's why they made the valve cover first. Before it always had the codes 120308 and 108f01
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| 123dog (602hp) | I think you may have missed the definitions part. Or maybe a screenshot from ista or another diagnostic tool you used. Who's going to sit here and look up every code? I'm just saying it...:
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| iceberg1 (352hp) | Welp, that's why I didn't post the codes right away.
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| marcopolo (480hp) | 2011 535i xDrive codes: - Left low beam malfunction - Adaptive headlight malfunction Details: My left low beam failed yesterday. When I restart the car the left low beam works fine and the codes disappear. As expected, the cornering lights follow my steering wheel on both sides. However, two minutes later the left low beam no longer works and the codes are back. At this time, the cornering lights on both sides do not work (that is, although the left low beam is off and the right low beam is working, the cornering lights on both sides are off). Does anyone have any insight into this? Is it the bulb, the ballast control module, or the other control module? Buying all three just for testing would stink.
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| lars_535i (128hp) | Do you know how old the battery is? You can look at the negative terminal. Has a date stamp. If it is an original with the vehicle identification number, start replacing it. And it needs to be registered after installing in the car.
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| shubha (391hp) | I think it's the bulb/ignition problem. The module does not control the low beam. In my case the module was defective and the only thing that worked was the low beam. I hope that in your case it is a broken light bulb. If so, I would also replace the right side.
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| 271288 (285hp) | Quote: Originally posted by Trainwreck914 Do you know how old the battery is? You can look at the negative terminal. Has a date stamp. If it's original, I would replace it first. And it needs to be registered after installing in the car. We just changed the battery.
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| slideshow (258hp) | Quote: Originally posted by OnlyGerman I think it's the light bulb/igniter. The module does not control the low beam. In my case the module was defective and the only thing that worked was the low beam. I hope that in your case it is a broken light bulb. If so, I would also replace the right side. Thanks, I'll try replacing the light bulbs now. When you say module, are you referring to the top or bottom module in the parts diagram in my original post? Top module - black plastic housing with visible green circuit board. Lower module - metal housing
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| motorola2 (996hp) | That's all I see from the codes you listed. Is the battery the correct specification? Was it registered? The other codes are brake codes. And that fuel injector code. But don't say seriously. So if you delete them. These are the ones that show up again?
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| 161980 (432hp) | Quote: Originally posted by LacesOut Quote: Originally posted by OnlyGerman I think it's the light bulb/igniter. The module does not control the low beam. In my case the module was defective and the only thing that worked was the low beam. I hope that in your case it is a broken light bulb. If so, I would also replace the right side. Thank you. I'm going to try replacing the light bulbs now. When you say module, are you referring to the top or bottom module in the parts diagram in my original post? Upper module - black plastic housing with visible green circuit board. Lower module - metal housing. As far as I know, there is only one module, the first one listed, with a green board. Which failed for me due to water ingress. In any case, try replacing the xenon bulbs with the igniter to see if the problem is resolved.
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| morgan06 (962hp) | Quote: Originally posted by Trainwreck914 That's all I see from the codes you listed. Is the battery the correct specification? Was it registered? The other codes are brake codes. And that fuel injector code. But don't say seriously. So if you delete them. These are the ones that show up again? Should be. Got it from Auto Zone and registered it with Carly. What battery codes are there? Because they seem new. These are not the usual codes we see and we replaced the battery like 6 months ago. Is it all four brakes? Because only the rear brake sensor is broken. Yes, I deleted it and ran it today and it came back up. But I didn't go anywhere with it. I just started the car and they came back up. Maybe that's why they didn't disappear? But I don't think these codes have anything to do with the car stalling and shaking when starting. Like a rough idle but the RPM is NOT moving.
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| carlos06 (828hp) | 2011 535i xDrive codes: - Left low beam malfunction - Adaptive headlight malfunction Details: My left low beam failed yesterday. When I restart the car the left low beam works fine and the codes disappear. As expected, the cornering lights follow my steering wheel on both sides. However, two minutes later the left low beam no longer works and the codes are back. At this time, the cornering lights on both sides do not work (that is, although the left low beam is off and the right low beam is working, the cornering lights on both sides are off). Does anyone have any insight into this? Is it the bulb, the ballast control module, or the other control module? Buying all three just for testing would stink.
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| 12081991 (75hp) | Quote: Originally posted by Trainwreck914 That's all I see from the codes you listed. Is the battery the correct specification? Was it registered? The other codes are brake codes. And that fuel injector code. But don't say seriously. So if you delete them. These are the ones that show up again? After running it again I got: D02d02 Do2d03 Do2do4 Do2do5 INFO 482627 1cffe9 Info67000a Info11a401 and 11b C90c96 So I didn't get the code: 213604 Info100100 But I got: Info 002044 Info 002031 I posted them above.
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| lumina (459hp) | I think it's the bulb/ignition problem. The module does not control the low beam. In my case the module was defective and the only thing that worked was the low beam. I hope that in your case it is a broken light bulb. If so, I would also replace the right side.
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| matt6288 (679hp) | I left it running and gave it gas, it stalled and shut down completely.
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| marmeladka (54hp) | Quote: Originally posted by OnlyGerman I think it's the light bulb/igniter. The module does not control the low beam. In my case the module was defective and the only thing that worked was the low beam. I hope that in your case it is a broken light bulb. If so, I would also replace the right side. Thanks, I'll try replacing the light bulbs now. When you say module, are you referring to the top or bottom module in the parts diagram in my original post? Top module - black plastic housing with visible green circuit board. Lower module - metal housing
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| 27011988 (789hp) | You should really publish the code definitions so that we can help you more easily. If it's a valve cover job. I would check all the vacuum tubes again (e.g. the boost solenoid). All reasons (as mentioned above). Connections such as O2 sensors (can't confuse these?), MAF, card(s). You don't have leak codes and white smoke now, do you? Is the idle smooth (beyond open loop)?)?
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| griffen (767hp) | Quote: Originally posted by LacesOut Quote: Originally posted by OnlyGerman I think it's the light bulb/igniter. The module does not control the low beam. In my case the module was defective and the only thing that worked was the low beam. I hope that in your case it is a broken light bulb. If so, I would also replace the right side. Thank you. I'm going to try replacing the light bulbs now. When you say module, are you referring to the top or bottom module in the parts diagram in my original post? Upper module - black plastic housing with visible green circuit board. Lower module - metal housing. As far as I know, there is only one module, the first one listed, with a green board. Which failed for me due to water ingress. In any case, try replacing the xenon bulbs with the igniter to see if the problem is resolved.
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| yellow1234 (834hp) | The code 213604 was the code I suspected for the battery. But you say that has now been clarified. There may be a short circuit on the turbo. Bad turbo. Could be a number of things. Hard to say. Do you have access to ista? That would be the best choice to start with.
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| rossie (933hp) | Quote: Originally posted by mashpotato You should really post the code definitions so we can help more easily. If it's a valve cover job. I would check all the vacuum tubes again (e.g. the boost solenoid). All reasons (as mentioned above). Connections such as O2 sensors (can't confuse these?), MAF, card(s). You don't have leak codes and white smoke now, do you? Is the idle operating smoothly (beyond open loop)? Previously we found out that the boost solenoid valves needed to be replaced, so let's do that now. We checked all connections and it looks good. I haven't driven it yet though, so I'm not sure if that matters. But the codes don't seem to indicate anything. Not crazy white smoke, but it's there. Idling is garbage. It really fluctuates. You can feel the car shaking, but the speed doesn't change. The next time the speeds rise and fall and then it usually comes to a stop.
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| bolivar (309hp) | An air leak could cause stalling? ?
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| 48624862 (645hp) | My dad has a 2011 535i and it's a lemon. An independent shop just did the valve cover gasket and we got it back but it stayed put. The guy said a hose wasn't attached properly. We brought it home and suddenly there was a bang and the car stopped. I don't want to go into gear. We looked under the hood and discovered that the charging line was broken. Dressed again and went home. I drove it a few times and then stopped again and the charging line was broken. We are now waiting for the replacement. But I ran it today and it stopped twice for no apparent reason. The first time it happened I got the code for the injectors and then the codes for the fuel pump. Now I get about 20 strange codes. I think the charge pipe has nothing to do with the stalling problem. Any idea what to check first? I also have a problem with the drive train. Oh, and now it's blowing white smoke out of the exhaust too. Thanks!
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| k1ller (341hp) | I don't want to say that I have any idea what is wrong with your car, but if I were I would open the hood, remove the plastic engine cover and check the entire engine wiring harness in and around the valve cover. I would look at ALL of the brown thick wires and their ground location to make sure they are all connected and tight (with a 10mm socket)... and then I would use a digital multimeter to check that the ground wires compare to the Cases are ground is less than 1 ohm...... ....but that's what I would do... Good luck.
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| slutface1 (426hp) | Because you didn't put it in the garage and wait to replace the part, you could ruin other systems. It can be all of the above
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| jared21927 (287hp) | Quote: Originally posted by M_Bimmer I don't want to say that I have any idea what is wrong with your car, but if I were I would open the hood, remove the plastic engine cover and the entire engine wiring harness in and around the car Check around valve cover. I would look at ALL of the brown thick wires and their ground location to make sure they are all connected and tight (with a 10mm socket)... and then I would use a digital multimeter to check that the ground wires compare to the Cases are ground is less than 1 ohm...... ....but that's what I would do... Good luck. Thanks man. I have a multimeter. Now I just need to figure out how to use it. But why do you think it has to do with the wires??
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| burnley1 (263hp) | And the start is anything but smooth. Rough idle.
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| 130477 (800hp) | Quote: Originally posted by BBHMM, since you didn't put it in the garage and wait to replace a part, you could ruin other systems. It can be anything from above. It's in the garage now and I just left it running to see what happened. I'm worried about the white smoke, but I don't think the charging line problem is related to the other problems.
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| monster08 (799hp) | It would help us to help you if you would post the codes with definitions
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| qweasdzxc12 (209hp) | How old is the gasoline, where is it purchased and what is its octane rating???
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| sexyback12 (995hp) | Quote: Originally written by ezaircon4jc How old is the gasoline, where is it purchased and what is its octane rating? He drives a lot, so the petrol engine is fairly new. I would hope 93. But I think he goes to a convenience store, so I'm curious about the quality of the gas and maybe that could be the cause of the problems?
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| 200689 (884hp) | Quote: Originally written by Trainwreck914. It would help us to help you if you post the codes with definitions 213604 D02d02 Do2d03 Do2do4 Do2do5 INFO 482627 1cffe9 Info67000a Info100100 Info11a401 and 11b C90c96. These were the codes I just got. When he first picked it up he had the injector code and a few others. Also the check engine light is always on which we are trying to fix because he needs to get it checked. That's why they made the valve cover first. Before it always had the codes 120308 and 108f01
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| fener1 (846hp) | I think you may have missed the definitions part. Or maybe a screenshot from ista or another diagnostic tool you used. Who's going to sit here and look up every code? I'm just saying it...:
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| 1q2w3easd (390hp) | Welp, that's why I didn't post the codes right away.
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| jaimatadi1 (787hp) | Do you know how old the battery is? You can look at the negative terminal. Has a date stamp. If it is an original with the vehicle identification number, start replacing it. And it needs to be registered after installing in the car.
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| 01011960 (599hp) | Quote: Originally posted by Trainwreck914 Do you know how old the battery is? You can look at the negative terminal. Has a date stamp. If it's original, I would replace it first. And it needs to be registered after installing in the car. We just changed the battery.
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| plover (291hp) | That's all I see from the codes you listed. Is the battery the correct specification? Was it registered? The other codes are brake codes. And that fuel injector code. But don't say seriously. So if you delete them. These are the ones that show up again?
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| lesedi (62hp) | Quote: Originally posted by Trainwreck914 That's all I see from the codes you listed. Is the battery the correct specification? Was it registered? The other codes are brake codes. And that fuel injector code. But don't say seriously. So if you delete them. These are the ones that show up again? Should be. Got it from Auto Zone and registered it with Carly. What battery codes are there? Because they seem new. These are not the usual codes we see and we replaced the battery like 6 months ago. Is it all four brakes? Because only the rear brake sensor is broken. Yes, I deleted it and ran it today and it came back up. But I didn't go anywhere with it. I just started the car and they came back up. Maybe that's why they didn't disappear? But I don't think these codes have anything to do with the car stalling and shaking when starting. Like a rough idle but the RPM is NOT moving.
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| angel55 (591hp) | Quote: Originally posted by Trainwreck914 That's all I see from the codes you listed. Is the battery the correct specification? Was it registered? The other codes are brake codes. And that fuel injector code. But don't say seriously. So if you delete them. These are the ones that show up again? After running it again I got: D02d02 Do2d03 Do2do4 Do2do5 INFO 482627 1cffe9 Info67000a Info11a401 and 11b C90c96 So I didn't get the code: 213604 Info100100 But I got: Info 002044 Info 002031 I posted them above.
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| 250982 (349hp) | I left it running and gave it gas, it stalled and shut down completely.
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| technician117 (55hp) | You should really publish the code definitions so that we can help you more easily. If it's a valve cover job. I would check all the vacuum tubes again (e.g. the boost solenoid). All reasons (as mentioned above). Connections such as O2 sensors (can't confuse these?), MAF, card(s). You don't have leak codes and white smoke now, do you? Is the idle smooth (beyond open loop)?)?
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| Silverfleet (635hp) | The code 213604 was the code I suspected for the battery. But you say that has now been clarified. There may be a short circuit on the turbo. Bad turbo. Could be a number of things. Hard to say. Do you have access to ista? That would be the best choice to start with.
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| Chuck22 (784hp) | Quote: Originally posted by mashpotato You should really post the code definitions so we can help more easily. If it's a valve cover job. I would check all the vacuum tubes again (e.g. the boost solenoid). All reasons (as mentioned above). Connections such as O2 sensors (can't confuse these?), MAF, card(s). You don't have leak codes and white smoke now, do you? Is the idle operating smoothly (beyond open loop)? Previously we found out that the boost solenoid valves needed to be replaced, so let's do that now. We checked all connections and it looks good. I haven't driven it yet though, so I'm not sure if that matters. But the codes don't seem to indicate anything. Not crazy white smoke, but it's there. Idling is garbage. It really fluctuates. You can feel the car shaking, but the speed doesn't change. The next time the speeds rise and fall and then it usually comes to a stop.
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| ps (881hp) | An air leak could cause stalling? ?
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| mack12 (633hp) | I recently switched to non-RFT and increased the sidewall of my tire to 245/45/R19. The workshop that changed the tire is currently having it filled to 40 PSI. Is there anyone here who uses this system and the pressure you all apply??
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| enamorado (413hp) | 32/36 in California.
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| akinyemi (414hp) | I believe (might be wrong) that this size is specified in the owner's manual for the tire pressure to drive.
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| v12345678 (609hp) | Quote: Originally posted by Unspec I believe (might be wrong) that this size is listed in the owner's manual for the tire pressure to run. This is not a standard tire size for the F10. That's why it's not in the operating instructions
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| 260982 (891hp) | Quote: Originally posted by BMW FOREVER This is not a standard tire size for the F10... that's why it's not in the owner's manual. Yeah, I wasn't sure if that was the case. I would use this website to convert to the closest possible size of 19: https://tiresize.com/pression-calculator/
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| 241981 (193hp) | 33/35 on non-RFs
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| barbarella (618hp) | I would still recommend taking a look at the tire inflation chart in your owner's manual. Note whether the PSI is the same for multiple tire and wheel size recommendations. If the 18/1920 setups are the same PSI...or very close...then you can probably still start with the BMW recommendation and then adjust based on your personal preferences. EDIT: I googled for an F10 owner's manual... and it appears that several tire sizes (17/18/19/20) have the same tire inflation specs (the front tires). Only the rear tire or the offset rear tire has a different specification. Based on the diagrams from the owner's manual... I would start with the recommendation for the 19 square tire size (35 front/39 rear). Then adjust if too hard or too soft (over or under inflated).):
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| yearbook (967hp) | I recently switched to non-RFT and increased the sidewall of my tire to 245/45/R19. The workshop that changed the tire is currently having it filled to 40 PSI. Is there anyone here who uses this system and the pressure you all apply??
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| Montreal (475hp) | 32/36 in California.
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| ilovekatie (895hp) | I believe (might be wrong) that this size is specified in the owner's manual for the tire pressure to drive.
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| Capo (35hp) | Quote: Originally posted by Unspec I believe (might be wrong) that this size is listed in the owner's manual for the tire pressure to run. This is not a standard tire size for the F10. That's why it's not in the operating instructions
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| cannonda (319hp) | Quote: Originally posted by BMW FOREVER This is not a standard tire size for the F10... that's why it's not in the owner's manual. Yeah, I wasn't sure if that was the case. I would use this website to convert to the closest possible size of 19: https://tiresize.com/pression-calculator/
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| at1234 (677hp) | 33/35 on non-RFs
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| 13011981 (142hp) | I would still recommend taking a look at the tire inflation chart in your owner's manual. Note whether the PSI is the same for multiple tire and wheel size recommendations. If the 18/1920 setups are the same PSI...or very close...then you can probably still start with the BMW recommendation and then adjust based on your personal preferences. EDIT: I googled for an F10 owner's manual... and it appears that several tire sizes (17/18/19/20) have the same tire inflation specs (the front tires). Only the rear tire or the offset rear tire has a different specification. Based on the diagrams from the owner's manual... I would start with the recommendation for the 19 square tire size (35 front/39 rear). Then adjust if too hard or too soft (over or under inflated).):
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| killer08 (71hp) | Quote: Originally posted by CC_hvac Update: Today the powertrain malfunction warning appeared. I forwarded them to BMW to check what was going on. It drove fine for about 100 miles before this happened. I hope it's not serious. Man, things like this scare me. Please keep us updated on what happens next.
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| 12031203 (345hp) | Quote: Originally posted by mediocrechris Man, things like this scare me. Please keep us updated on what happens next. I know, man, that's exactly why I hesitated to do the repair. They called me today for an update and told me it was an inactive code that occurred 10 drive cycles ago and had to do with turbo pressure. ...I have no idea what they are talking about (I was at my work and didn't have time for detailed explanations). I'll go there tomorrow and definitely keep this thread updated
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| bartholomeus (830hp) | Update: Ok, so they emailed me the bill and here is what they found verbatim: BATTERY CHARGER CONNECTED AND QUICK TEST CONNECTED, ERROR CODE 120308, 120708 FOUND FOR CHARGE PRESSURE CHECK FOR BOTH BANKS. It was determined that the error only occurred once. TESTING VEHICLE IN DETAIL: NO ENGINE LIGHT CHECK FOUND AT IDLE OR IN THE RED LINE. Test vehicle morning, noon and afternoon at street and highway speeds, under load or no load: no errors were returned, no warning messages were displayed, no system errors occurred at this time. Correction: RECOMMEND THE CUSTOMER DRIVE THE VEHICLE UNTIL THE LIGHT RETURNS TO CONTINUE DIAGNOSIS. I'll pick up the car tomorrow and hope it doesn't continue like this. If anyone knows what could be causing these errors, please explain. The light came on when I had it in Sport+ and accelerated
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| 18091984 (354hp) | Okay, so I drove the car and haven't had any problems so far. The dealer told me it could be a problem with the battery (which is strange) but they couldn't find any problems with the car. The increased battery drain warning was active for about five days after I first picked up the device. So my question is: Could a bad battery be causing these turbo pressure codes? ERROR CODE 120308, 120708 FOR BOTH BANKS BOOST PRESSURE CONTROL.
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