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| nevtobmw (278hp) | Eldor is the current manufacturer of pencil coils. I have replaced an unusual number of Delphi coils installed in customer vehicles over the last two years under warranty due to repeated individual coil failures.
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| Imola.ZHP (295hp) | Quote: Originally posted by Stück Eldor is the current manufacturer of the pencil coils. I have replaced an unusual number of Delphi coils installed in customer vehicles over the last two years under warranty due to repeated individual coil failures. Thank you for the update. I will check the Eldor ignition coils for my car.
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| coco01 (601hp) | At bavarian auto sport you can also find original BMW parts. Good service if you have any questions...
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| aether (850hp) | Quote: Originally posted by xxpanipuri bavarian auto sport is also a good place to source OEM BMW parts... good service too if you have any questions... Thanks I bought some Eldor ignition coils on eBay.
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| Serenity (705hp) | Based on the Struck post above, I had my mechanic check my rear differential bushing and lo and behold, my bushing was shot. Upon further inspection, he discovered that the rear flex washer was also cracked. My car only has 61,000 miles and was a one-owner vehicle until I purchased it three months ago. My mechanic (he works mostly on older BMWs) quoted me $746 to replace the rear diff bushing and front and rear flex washers. I dropped the car off yesterday and picked it up that evening and he said he only needed to replace the rear diff bushing and rear flex washer as the front looked soft and had no signs of cracking. Total cost $476.76.
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| mygirls1 (473hp) | Quote: Originally posted by whinojosa. Have you happened to follow a DIY that you could link us to? I'm no stranger to wrenching, having done a lot of it on my old E46 and E90 (N52), but with the F10 there just seem to be so many little gotchas. I performed the OFHG on both vehicles mentioned above. The N52, as you said, seemed much easier with the right tools. I followed: It's pretty simple. If you have the tools mentioned above and are careful not to let anything fall into the engine compartment, this is a fairly easy task. I disconnected the coolant hose from the oil filter housing and drained it from there into a small container. I would recommend doing the belt and tensioner at the same time as removing the belt and radiator fan greatly improves accessibility and is also only $75 for a tensioner and Conti belt. This will also allow you to remove any spilled oil residue from the front of the block.
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| dave1234 (570hp) | Quote: Originally posted by dirtyvegas What repairs do I expect? So far I have paid $1,000 out of pocket for the high pressure fuel pump. (Newly manufactured pump from FCPeuro and Indy). I don't count tires/pads/brake rotors and other regular maintenance. The spark plugs were replaced after approximately 60,000 miles. I have reached 87,000 miles. at the moment. I know this is a wide open question. I'm just wondering if it's worth keeping an extra 20,000 miles or not. (The little voice in my head says no.) There wasn't an open recall for the fuel pump??
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| isadora (851hp) | Quote: Originally posted by Stück I usually recognize defective control arm bushings by looking at the tire wear on the inside and outside shoulder of the front tire directly on the service trip. The differential bushing has never had a customer complaint or appearance, just a visual inspection on all 5/6/7 F chassis vehicles, which you can bet your life on if the car in question has more than 40-50,000 km. If the bushing cracks, the differential will sag and the drivetrain angle will shift, increasing wear on other components such as the flex disk clutches, center support bearing, axles, etc. Did you happen to build the differential bushing yourself? If so, any instructions/hints for us? The additional stress on the flex washer and other components suggests that this bushing has not been inspected/replaced
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| bentley2 (528hp) | The diff bushing is not a job I would recommend for a DIYer. Significant disassembly is required and you will need a special tool to push it out and back in. The work is worth it for about 8 hours.
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| MFL101 (495hp) | Quote: Originally posted by whinojosa Wasn't there an open recall for the fuel pump? For the low pressure pump of some F10, not to be confused with the high pressure pump.
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| 211085 (627hp) | Quote: Originally posted by Big_CG Quote: Originally posted by whinojosa Have you happened to follow a DIY that you could link us to? I'm no stranger to wrenching, having done a lot of it on my old E46 E90 (N52), but with the F10 there just seem to be so many little gotchas. I performed the OFHG on both vehicles mentioned above. The N52, as you said, seemed much easier with the right tools. I followed: It's pretty simple. If you have the tools mentioned above and are careful not to let anything fall into the engine compartment, this is a fairly easy task. I disconnected the coolant hose from the oil filter housing and drained it from there into a small container. I would recommend doing the belt and tensioner at the same time as removing the belt and radiator fan greatly improves accessibility and also only costs $75 for a tensioner and drive belt. This will also allow you to remove any spilled oil residue from the front of the block. Thanks for the info! Very helpful
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| marika1 (123hp) | Based on the Struck post above, I had my mechanic check my rear differential bushing and lo and behold, my bushing was shot. Upon further inspection, he discovered that the rear flex washer was also cracked. My car only has 61,000 miles and was a one-owner vehicle until I purchased it three months ago. My mechanic (he works mostly on older BMWs) quoted me $746 to replace the rear diff bushing and front and rear flex washers. I dropped the car off yesterday and picked it up that evening and he said he only needed to replace the rear diff bushing and rear flex washer as the front looked soft and had no signs of cracking. Total cost $476.76.
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| fucker23 (300hp) | Quote: Originally posted by whinojosa. Have you happened to follow a DIY that you could link us to? I'm no stranger to wrenching, having done a lot of it on my old E46 and E90 (N52), but with the F10 there just seem to be so many little gotchas. I performed the OFHG on both vehicles mentioned above. The N52, as you said, seemed much easier with the right tools. I followed: It's pretty simple. If you have the tools mentioned above and are careful not to let anything fall into the engine compartment, this is a fairly easy task. I disconnected the coolant hose from the oil filter housing and drained it from there into a small container. I would recommend doing the belt and tensioner at the same time as removing the belt and radiator fan greatly improves accessibility and is also only $75 for a tensioner and Conti belt. This will also allow you to remove any spilled oil residue from the front of the block.
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| longe (659hp) | Quote: Originally posted by dirtyvegas What repairs do I expect? So far I have paid $1,000 out of pocket for the high pressure fuel pump. (Newly manufactured pump from FCPeuro and Indy). I don't count tires/pads/brake rotors and other regular maintenance. The spark plugs were replaced after approximately 60,000 miles. I have reached 87,000 miles. at the moment. I know this is a wide open question. I'm just wondering if it's worth keeping an extra 20,000 miles or not. (The little voice in my head says no.) There wasn't an open recall for the fuel pump??
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| brigitte (675hp) | Quote: Originally posted by Stück I usually recognize defective control arm bushings by looking at the tire wear on the inside and outside shoulder of the front tire directly on the service trip. The differential bushing has never had a customer complaint or appearance, just a visual inspection on all 5/6/7 F chassis vehicles, which you can bet your life on if the car in question has more than 40-50,000 km. If the bushing cracks, the differential will sag and the drivetrain angle will shift, increasing wear on other components such as the flex disk clutches, center support bearing, axles, etc. Did you happen to build the differential bushing yourself? If so, any instructions/hints for us? The additional stress on the flex washer and other components suggests that this bushing has not been inspected/replaced
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| everclear (253hp) | The diff bushing is not a job I would recommend for a DIYer. Significant disassembly is required and you will need a special tool to push it out and back in. The work is worth it for about 8 hours.
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| penguin4 (548hp) | Quote: Originally posted by whinojosa Wasn't there an open recall for the fuel pump? For the low pressure pump of some F10, not to be confused with the high pressure pump.
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| 060887 (582hp) | Quote: Originally posted by Big_CG Quote: Originally posted by whinojosa Have you happened to follow a DIY that you could link us to? I'm no stranger to wrenching, having done a lot of it on my old E46 E90 (N52), but with the F10 there just seem to be so many little gotchas. I performed the OFHG on both vehicles mentioned above. The N52, as you said, seemed much easier with the right tools. I followed: It's pretty simple. If you have the tools mentioned above and are careful not to let anything fall into the engine compartment, this is a fairly easy task. I disconnected the coolant hose from the oil filter housing and drained it from there into a small container. I would recommend doing the belt and tensioner at the same time as removing the belt and radiator fan greatly improves accessibility and also only costs $75 for a tensioner and drive belt. This will also allow you to remove any spilled oil residue from the front of the block. Thanks for the info! Very helpful
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| sunset1 (926hp) | My car is out of warranty and my dealer told me the turbocharger should be 7,000. I'm trading in my car, but I have no idea what I want. I still want something comfortable, fast and reliable. Do you have any suggestions? What have most F10 owners switched to? I want to pay a maximum of 65,000
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| rosiedog (759hp) | Quote: Originally posted by IBOOSTU My car is out of warranty and my dealer told me the turbocharger should be 7k. I'm trading in my car, but I have no idea what else I want that's comfortable, fast and reliable. Do you have any suggestions? What have most F10 owners switched to? Maximum 65,000. I want to pay. What is your mileage? The car had any symptoms before the turbo went out ?
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| hellyea1 (869hp) | How do you know the turbo is broken? Mods?
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| jordan7 (802hp) | You can find an indy shop and have the work done for much cheaper.
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| 26101995 (544hp) | Quote: Originally written by Kwood-F10-535i. You can find an indy shop and get the job done for a lot cheaper. I can definitely recommend it. As for the new car, I'm currently debating between an F10 M5, a G30 5 Series or an X5(M). But learn from this experience and always secure the extended warranty on such cars.
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| usg242 (345hp) | You can do Alpina turbos
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| q2w3e4 (459hp) | Turbos are $1,000 each plus probably $200 for new oil return lines/miscellaneous. Does the dealer want $5,000 for installation? Sounds ridiculous. https://www.getbmwparts.com/v-2014-b...and-components As for a replacement, the only car I considered before buying my 550iX (and which I would accept in a heartbeat, if I were on the market). again) is the Audi S6. A certified pre-owned 2017 car will likely cost around $65,000. It's like a 550i on steroids - much wider torque range compared to the 550i (1.4k - 5.2k vs. 2.4k - 4.8k) and air suspension that can be optimized for maximum comfort or control.
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| watitdo1 (910hp) | Air suspension that can be optimized for maximum comfort or control.[/QUOTE] Hello S6, nice cars, and that's right about the torque band. The only thing is if the air suspension is having problems, which is the case with every brand, the Range Rover, even the BMW and Audi - that's not the cheapest job to do. I've always loved the comfort of these suspensions, but was just too nervous to purchase these vehicles equipped with them. I guess like someone said, if there's a guarantee then it's nothing to worry about and you can enjoy it. Be interested in what you end up buying, keep us updated! Sp
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| 88998899 (799hp) | Quote: Originally posted by IBOOSTU My car is out of warranty and my dealer told me the turbocharger should be 7k. I'm trading in my car, but I have no idea what else I want: something comfortable, fast and reliable. Do you have any suggestions? What have most F10 owners switched to? I want to pay a maximum of 65,000. Don't laugh but I would suggest getting a cts-v and leaving the n63 for a more reliable, easier to use and more importantly more F'n performance and mods for less money. The F10 is a great car, but I won't miss it when my CTS-V makes 800 horsepower and I can make my own mods without a scientist helping me. The only downside is the ugly dashboard and it will probably fall apart quicker, but at least it will be cheaper to work on and more reliable engine wise. That is my next goal.
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| Etnies (399hp) | The G30 is a very good car if you like the looks of it. very good interior.
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| axssyha (566hp) | Yes folks, BMW quoted me that after replacing the turbos after having my car there for two weeks, they discovered the turbos were defective, which I think is ridiculous because they are so expensive. I'm looking for a comfortable, FAST car and maybe thinking about switching to an F10 M5 But what would you recommend? >,?
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| ts3bot (700hp) | Quote: Originally written by Teddylongtooth. Don't laugh, but I would suggest getting a cts-v and leaving the n63 for a more reliable, easier to use and most importantly... more f'n power and mods for less money. The F10 is a great car, but I won't miss it when my CTS-V makes 800 horsepower and I can make my own mods without a scientist helping me. The only downside is the ugly dashboard and it will probably fall apart quicker, but at least it will be cheaper to work on and more reliable engine wise. That is my next goal. The CTS V is a great car, my buddy has a station wagon style one, it's awesome!
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| babies123 (849hp) | Quote: Originally posted by 535_BiTurbo, you can do Alpina Turbos. Which Alpina Turbos should you get? Do you have a link??
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| 821228 (814hp) | Get pure turbos and you're set
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| purple76 (374hp) | Hire an indy shop to do the work. It shouldn't cost more than 2.5-3,000 euros to do the whole thing including turbos. Where are you? I know a few shops in the US that do this type of work for a reasonable price.
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| h80lsa (530hp) | Quote: Originally posted by badblack550xi. Hire an indy shop to do the work. It shouldn't be more than 2.5-3,000 euros for the entire work including turbos. Where are you? I know a few shops in the US that do this type of work for a reasonable price. I live in the suburbs of Chicago, I'm just worried about spending the money and then say something like my transfer case will break again and I won't spend the $13.5k on this repair. My warranty covered this before it failed, so I'm a bit worried about that. I was thinking about getting an f10 m5
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| bitch87 (515hp) | My car is out of warranty and my dealer told me the turbocharger should be 7,000. I'm trading in my car, but I have no idea what I want. I still want something comfortable, fast and reliable. Do you have any suggestions? What have most F10 owners switched to? I want to pay a maximum of 65,000
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| june2004 (503hp) | Quote: Originally posted by IBOOSTU My car is out of warranty and my dealer told me the turbocharger should be 7k. I'm trading in my car, but I have no idea what else I want that's comfortable, fast and reliable. Do you have any suggestions? What have most F10 owners switched to? Maximum 65,000. I want to pay. What is your mileage? The car had any symptoms before the turbo went out ?
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| Kiamoko (634hp) | How do you know the turbo is broken? Mods?
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| matthew07 (766hp) | You can find an indy shop and have the work done for much cheaper.
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| 15061989 (435hp) | Quote: Originally written by Kwood-F10-535i. You can find an indy shop and get the job done for a lot cheaper. I can definitely recommend it. As for the new car, I'm currently debating between an F10 M5, a G30 5 Series or an X5(M). But learn from this experience and always secure the extended warranty on such cars.
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| fallenange (45hp) | You can do Alpina turbos
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| Wht550jersey (612hp) | Turbos are $1,000 each plus probably $200 for new oil return lines/miscellaneous. Does the dealer want $5,000 for installation? Sounds ridiculous. https://www.getbmwparts.com/v-2014-b...and-components As for a replacement, the only car I considered before buying my 550iX (and which I would accept in a heartbeat, if I were on the market). again) is the Audi S6. A certified pre-owned 2017 car will likely cost around $65,000. It's like a 550i on steroids - much wider torque range compared to the 550i (1.4k - 5.2k vs. 2.4k - 4.8k) and air suspension that can be optimized for maximum comfort or control.
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| cunt123 (233hp) | Air suspension that can be optimized for maximum comfort or control.[/QUOTE] Hello S6, nice cars, and that's right about the torque band. The only thing is if the air suspension is having problems, which is the case with every brand, the Range Rover, even the BMW and Audi - that's not the cheapest job to do. I've always loved the comfort of these suspensions, but was just too nervous to purchase these vehicles equipped with them. I guess like someone said, if there's a guarantee then it's nothing to worry about and you can enjoy it. Be interested in what you end up buying, keep us updated! Sp
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| slovakia (551hp) | Quote: Originally posted by IBOOSTU My car is out of warranty and my dealer told me the turbocharger should be 7k. I'm trading in my car, but I have no idea what else I want: something comfortable, fast and reliable. Do you have any suggestions? What have most F10 owners switched to? I want to pay a maximum of 65,000. Don't laugh but I would suggest getting a cts-v and leaving the n63 for a more reliable, easier to use and more importantly more F'n performance and mods for less money. The F10 is a great car, but I won't miss it when my CTS-V makes 800 horsepower and I can make my own mods without a scientist helping me. The only downside is the ugly dashboard and it will probably fall apart quicker, but at least it will be cheaper to work on and more reliable engine wise. That is my next goal.
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| nester (509hp) | The G30 is a very good car if you like the looks of it. very good interior.
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| auntie1 (491hp) | Yes folks, BMW quoted me that after replacing the turbos after having my car there for two weeks, they discovered the turbos were defective, which I think is ridiculous because they are so expensive. I'm looking for a comfortable, FAST car and maybe thinking about switching to an F10 M5 But what would you recommend? >,?
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| 20021975 (630hp) | Quote: Originally written by Teddylongtooth. Don't laugh, but I would suggest getting a cts-v and leaving the n63 for a more reliable, easier to use and most importantly... more f'n power and mods for less money. The F10 is a great car, but I won't miss it when my CTS-V makes 800 horsepower and I can make my own mods without a scientist helping me. The only downside is the ugly dashboard and it will probably fall apart quicker, but at least it will be cheaper to work on and more reliable engine wise. That is my next goal. The CTS V is a great car, my buddy has a station wagon style one, it's awesome!
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| sammyjo1 (3hp) | Quote: Originally posted by 535_BiTurbo, you can do Alpina Turbos. Which Alpina Turbos should you get? Do you have a link??
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| MZWIE (935hp) | Get pure turbos and you're set
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| w1966a (914hp) | Hire an indy shop to do the work. It shouldn't cost more than 2.5-3,000 euros to do the whole thing including turbos. Where are you? I know a few shops in the US that do this type of work for a reasonable price.
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| shivbaba (873hp) | Quote: Originally posted by badblack550xi. Hire an indy shop to do the work. It shouldn't be more than 2.5-3,000 euros for the entire work including turbos. Where are you? I know a few shops in the US that do this type of work for a reasonable price. I live in the suburbs of Chicago, I'm just worried about spending the money and then say something like my transfer case will break again and I won't spend the $13.5k on this repair. My warranty covered this before it failed, so I'm a bit worried about that. I was thinking about getting an f10 m5
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| thebest99 (466hp) | Does anyone know if the stock switching valves can handle MHD Stage 2/2+ Boost or even Stage 1+? For those of you using Boost on a Daily Driver, how reliable was the tune? In addition to the DV crack, I'm worried about the boost pressure leaking and the injectors failing..
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| louis12 (707hp) | At this point I recommend upgrading the DV to the GFB. DV+ is a very popular option that we offer.
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| halfmonkey (333hp) | Does anyone know if the stock switching valves can handle MHD Stage 2/2+ Boost or even Stage 1+? For those of you using Boost on a Daily Driver, how reliable was the tune? In addition to the DV crack, I'm worried about the boost pressure leaking and the injectors failing..
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| fishing (182hp) | At this point I recommend upgrading the DV to the GFB. DV+ is a very popular option that we offer.
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| snj1013 (207hp) | I plan to install a new set of Pilot 4s on my vehicle on stock 373m wheels with a width diameter of 8.5 FR and 9 RR with 255/35/20 FR and 295/30/20 RR. I know 295 isn't ideal for 9 inches, but I'm wondering if anyone here has installed this width on a 9 inch wide rim? If so, how bad would the bump be? very noticeable or not? or major safety or other concerns? I would be grateful for any input, thank you
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| puddle (969hp) | Tirerack lists the recommended rim width for each tire size on its website. Go to the 4S and look under the specifications. For the size you specified, a wheel width of at least 10mm is recommended. You may find that a narrower tire on this bike also rides better due to the geometry of the tire bead support relative to the width of the overall carcass.
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| vinicio (778hp) | 295/30 is simply too wide for a 9-wheel.
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| FILTHY5 (482hp) | How about 285
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| 29101985 (841hp) | 265 is probably the maximum
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| petter (29hp) | 275 is maximum on 9 wide wheels.
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| dogbreath1 (304hp) | It says 265 here: http://www.tyresizecalculator.com/ch...rim-size-chart
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| 19051983 (786hp) | The F10 with staggered 19- or 20-inch wheels comes factory equipped with 245-inch tires on 8.5-inch front wheels and 275-inch tires on 9-inch rear wheels.
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| denise123 (430hp) | I plan to install a new set of Pilot 4s on my vehicle on stock 373m wheels with a width diameter of 8.5 FR and 9 RR with 255/35/20 FR and 295/30/20 RR. I know 295 isn't ideal for 9 inches, but I'm wondering if anyone here has installed this width on a 9 inch wide rim? If so, how bad would the bump be? very noticeable or not? or major safety or other concerns? I would be grateful for any input, thank you
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| cnhtktw (970hp) | Tirerack lists the recommended rim width for each tire size on its website. Go to the 4S and look under the specifications. For the size you specified, a wheel width of at least 10mm is recommended. You may find that a narrower tire on this bike also rides better due to the geometry of the tire bead support relative to the width of the overall carcass.
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| 123456zxcvbn (522hp) | 295/30 is simply too wide for a 9-wheel.
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| dancer17 (452hp) | How about 285
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| connor06 (545hp) | 265 is probably the maximum
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| BBDDVV (570hp) | 275 is maximum on 9 wide wheels.
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| pinky6 (715hp) | It says 265 here: http://www.tyresizecalculator.com/ch...rim-size-chart
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| chaseverner (116hp) | The F10 with staggered 19- or 20-inch wheels comes factory equipped with 245-inch tires on 8.5-inch front wheels and 275-inch tires on 9-inch rear wheels.
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| pippopippo (790hp) | I loved my jet black 2011 550i with the M Sport package, I lowered it with ACS springs, installed M5 343 wheels with the 255/285 tire setup, installed M5 grills and the M5 exhaust with the M5 diffuser. The car is nice, but it burns oil. It uses a liter every 800-1200 miles and BMW says this is normal and within normal tolerances. Then it started using a quart of oil about every 500 miles and BMW again said it was within normal operating parameters. Fast forward to 103,000 miles, no warranty. One Saturday my wife comes home from shopping and says the oil light has come on again, so I go to put oil in her car. As I pull the oil filler cap off, I notice that there is a reddish-brown residue on the inside of the oil filler tube, so I wipe my finger in it. Looks rusty. I look over and slowly open the coolant collection bottle, which is almost empty. I go to BMW and get a gallon of their antifreeze concentrate, mix up a gallon and put about a quart in the collection bottle. Shit! a blown head gasket. I've never noticed this before because my wife always tells me about the oil when she comes home in the evening. And of course BMW will never tell me anything when the car comes in for service, especially when the warranty is almost expired. Since there is no dipstick, I can't check if the oil looks creamy. All I see is dollar signs – lots of them. I call my service technician at BMW and leave him a message telling him what I found and asking how much I need repaired and if I can get any goodwill from BMW since I've been taking the car there for service since I bought the car. In the meantime, I'll look online to see how much the car is worth. Holy crap! F me! A beautiful engineering masterpiece like this, 6 years old with 103,000 miles, has a trade-in value of $10,000! That's it?! A $50,000 hit in 5 years? My 2011 Duramax diesel truck with almost 200,000 miles is worth over $25,000! On Monday I get a call from my service tech at BMW - repairing one head gasket is $8,800, repairing both sides is $10,800. That's more than the car is worth! I asked if BMW would help, he said they might offer a discount on the parts but that was it. Well, screw BMW! I had the oil changed at an independent BMW mechanic and he said that there was some water in the oil, but not enough to warrant immediate work. He said if I change the oil I'll have time to get rid of the car, but don't wait too long. He said the job would cost him about $7,000 to $9,000 depending on whether I wanted to refinish the heads as well. He says leaky valve guides cause oil consumption. If it was only $5,000 I would do it, but if the transmission breaks within the next 20,000 miles that's another $8,000 to $10,000. I can't take that risk. As much as I wanted another 550, I just couldn't afford to drop more than $50,000 on another car in five years. I want something that will last up to 200,000 miles with easy maintenance. I can understand a water pump or alternator (which has already been replaced), a head gasket shouldn't cost more than the car is worth. The car is gone and the white 2016 Cadillac CTS-V has taken its place. This thing is a beast and I love it, but it doesn't have the finesse that BMW had. Oh, and I already checked, a head gasket repair here only costs $3700. It was fun here in the forum, I have my M5 wheels and tires.
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| lincogo1 (450hp) | Don’t feel guilty about a car’s diminished value. Pickup trucks hold their value very, very well. A friend bought a new truck because it was just a bit more expensive than a used truck! The price difference wasn't enough to justify purchasing the new truck!
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| dimitrik (272hp) | Quote: Originally written by Chili Palmer I want something that will last up to 200,000 miles with easy maintenance. A Toyota Camry fits this lifestyle perfectly and is exactly what you are looking for.
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| meemee (628hp) | Quote: Originally written by Chili Palmer I loved my jet black 2011 550i with the M Sport package, I lowered it with ACS springs, installed M5 343 wheels with 255/285 tire setup, installed M5 grilles, installed M5 exhaust with M5 diffuser. The car is nice, but it burns oil. It uses a liter every 800-1200 miles and BMW says this is normal and within normal tolerances. Then it started using a quart of oil about every 500 miles and BMW again said it was within normal operating parameters. Fast forward to 103,000 miles, no warranty. One Saturday my wife comes home from shopping and says the oil light has come on again, so I go to put oil in her car. As I pull the oil filler cap off, I notice that there is a reddish-brown residue on the inside of the oil filler tube, so I wipe my finger in it. Looks rusty. I look over and slowly open the coolant collection bottle, which is almost empty. I go to BMW and get a gallon of their antifreeze concentrate, mix up a gallon and put about a quart in the collection bottle. Shit! a blown head gasket. I've never noticed this before because my wife always tells me about the oil when she comes home in the evening. And of course BMW will never tell me anything when the car comes in for service, especially when the warranty is almost expired. Since there is no dipstick, I can't check if the oil looks creamy. All I see is dollar signs – lots of them. I call my service technician at BMW and leave him a message telling him what I found and asking how much I need repaired and if I can get any goodwill from BMW since I've been taking the car there for service since I bought the car. In the meantime, I'll look online to see how much the car is worth. Holy crap! F me! A beautiful engineering masterpiece like this, 6 years old with 103,000 miles, has a trade-in value of $10,000! That's it?! A $50,000 hit in 5 years? My 2011 Duramax diesel truck with almost 200,000 miles is worth over $25,000! On Monday I get a call from my service tech at BMW - repairing one head gasket is $8,800, repairing both sides is $10,800. That's more than the car is worth! I asked if BMW would help, he said they might offer a discount on the parts but that was it. Well, screw BMW! I had the oil changed at an independent BMW mechanic and he said that there was some water in the oil, but not enough to warrant immediate work. He said if I change the oil I'll have time to get rid of the car, but don't wait too long. He said the job would cost him about $7,000 to $9,000 depending on whether I wanted to refinish the heads as well. He says leaky valve guides cause oil consumption. If it was only $5,000 I would do it, but if the transmission breaks within the next 20,000 miles that's another $8,000 to $10,000. I can't take that risk. As much as I wanted another 550, I just couldn't afford to drop more than $50,000 on another car in five years. I want something that will last up to 200,000 miles with easy maintenance. I can understand a water pump or alternator (which has already been replaced), a head gasket shouldn't cost more than the car is worth. The car is gone and the white 2016 Cadillac CTS-V has taken its place. This thing is a beast and I love it, but it doesn't have the finesse that BMW had. Oh, and I already checked, a head gasket repair here only costs $3700. It was fun here in the forum, I did.
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| 280678 (610hp) | That's why it's much better to buy a 1-2 year old CPO!!!!!!!!!!!! AND purchase a Route 66 warranty.
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| Christian1 (869hp) | Quote: Originally posted by 535MSport That's why it's much better to buy a 1-2 year old CPO!!!!!!!!!!!! AND purchase a Route 66 warranty. I purchased CPO and all extended warranties ended at 5 years or 100,000 miles, so I was SOL.
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| denver303 (434hp) | I just bought a fully loaded 2014 550 for 33.5k. The sticker cost about 75,000 4 years ago. Holy devaluation indeed. When the warranty expires this month I'll be picking one up through Route 66 (PenFed) for $50/month. This is how you can own these beasts cheaply.
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| babyboi1 (914hp) | I looked up the price of my 2012 528i a few weeks ago, but I couldn't get a stripped-down Civic for it. I was shocked. And it has 55,000 miles and is immaculate...LOL. I think the F10 platform in general has lost a lot of value. Luckily I drive it to the ground
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| green89 (14hp) | Sounds right to me...that's what, $800 a month in depreciation? If you lease or something...you'd be paying a lot more than that per month. The loss in value is high for exactly the reasons you are selling. Not many people want to take the risk of buying a car with more than 100,000 miles and potentially incurring a $10,000 repair bill.
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| youngblood (226hp) | Quote: Originally posted by BigKutta. I looked up the price of my 2012 528i for fun a few weeks ago and couldn't get a stripped down Civic for it. I was shocked. And it has 55,000 miles and is immaculate...LOL. I think the F10 platform in general has lost a lot of value. Luckily I hit the ground with it. My plan was to crash my car, unfortunately my car didn't have the same plan as me.
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| 333aaa (706hp) | Quote: Originally written by Chili Palmer I loved my jet black 2011 550i with the M Sport package, I lowered it with ACS springs, installed M5 343 wheels with 255/285 tire setup, installed M5 grilles, installed M5 exhaust with M5 diffuser. The car is nice, but it burns oil. It uses a liter every 800-1200 miles and BMW says this is normal and within normal tolerances. Then it started using a quart of oil about every 500 miles and BMW again said it was within normal operating parameters. Fast forward to 103,000 miles, no warranty. One Saturday my wife comes home from shopping and says the oil light has come on again, so I go to put oil in her car. As I pull the oil filler cap off, I notice that there is a reddish-brown residue on the inside of the oil filler tube, so I wipe my finger in it. Looks rusty. I look over and slowly open the coolant collection bottle, which is almost empty. I go to BMW and get a gallon of their antifreeze concentrate, mix up a gallon and put about a quart in the collection bottle. Shit! a blown head gasket. I've never noticed this before because my wife always tells me about the oil when she comes home in the evening. And of course BMW will never tell me anything when the car comes in for service, especially when the warranty is almost expired. Since there is no dipstick, I can't check if the oil looks creamy. All I see is dollar signs – lots of them. I call my service technician at BMW and leave him a message telling him what I found and asking how much I need repaired and if I can get any goodwill from BMW since I've been taking the car there for service since I bought the car. In the meantime, I'll look online to see how much the car is worth. Holy crap! F me! A beautiful engineering masterpiece like this, 6 years old with 103,000 miles, has a trade-in value of $10,000! That's it?! A $50,000 hit in 5 years? My 2011 Duramax diesel truck with almost 200,000 miles is worth over $25,000! On Monday I get a call from my service tech at BMW - repairing one head gasket is $8,800, repairing both sides is $10,800. That's more than the car is worth! I asked if BMW would help, he said they might offer a discount on the parts but that was it. Well, screw BMW! I had the oil changed at an independent BMW mechanic and he said that there was some water in the oil, but not enough to warrant immediate work. He said if I change the oil I'll have time to get rid of the car, but don't wait too long. He said the job would cost him about $7,000 to $9,000 depending on whether I wanted to refinish the heads as well. He says leaky valve guides cause oil consumption. If it was only $5,000 I would do it, but if the transmission breaks within the next 20,000 miles that's another $8,000 to $10,000. I can't take that risk. As much as I wanted another 550, I just couldn't afford to drop more than $50,000 on another car in five years. I want something that will last up to 200,000 miles with easy maintenance. I can understand a water pump or alternator (which has already been replaced), a head gasket shouldn't cost more than the car is worth. The car is gone and the white 2016 Cadillac CTS-V has taken its place. This thing is a beast and I love it, but it doesn't have the finesse that BMW had. Oh, and I already checked, a head gasket repair here only costs $3700. It was fun here in the forum, I did!
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| troubles (5hp) | Unfortunately, mass-produced BMWs have no value. always. Unless you really have a gem, like a 2002tii or something special.
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| storwatch (147hp) | I found the answer to all of these questions in my 535d...
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| ilovemyboy (668hp) | Quote: Originally written by ItBloo Unfortunately, mass produced BMWs have no value. always. Unless you really have a gem, like a 2002tii or something special. Aside from trucks, anything mass produced has no value.
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| ogechi (297hp) | I can. Regarding. As much as I love mine, owning it without a warranty was heartbreaking for me. The 550 is truly a dream when you look at it from someone else's perspective... and I just turned 112,000. I can only imagine what will break next. Good luck with your new ride, and as much as I hate American cars, I can only imagine the CTS-V will be a lot more reliable. Good luck, sir
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| 20031978 (262hp) | We all know that a car is not a good investment and at the other end I also think why a 7 year old car with 100,000+ miles should be worth anything at all?
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| jeremy23 (624hp) | Quote: Originally posted by wrickem We all know that a car is not a good investment, and I'm on the other end too, thinking #34, why should a 7 year old car with 100,000+ miles be worth anything? #34, If If I judge it this way, I think what many have told me is true. A BMW is only good for up to 100,000 km, after which it is junk. And I don't think I believed it when I heard that. I guess these cars are really meant to sit in the driveway and be looked at rather than driven. That's a mistake I won't make again. Who knew a $75,000 car only had the potential to make $100,000 *shrugs*
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| lickme (563hp) | I can buy a 20 year old Honda for more than a 20 year old BMW
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| Victory (865hp) | Who knows what our cars will be worth when electric vehicles take over the landscape. I don't care what others think anyway. If it's worth it for me, I'll spend good money on a rebuilt gearbox or engine, realizing that buying a new one is much more expensive. It's usually cheaper to repair older cars than to buy new ones every 100,000 miles or less. I'll just take care of it as best I can and keep a car if it suits my wants and needs. PL
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| 030781 (966hp) | Quote: Originally written by wrickem We all know that a car is not a good investment and I agree, why should a 7 year old car with 100,000+ miles be worth anything? I suspect that with newer technology and materials science, 200,000 miles is the new 100,000 miles. My old E320 CDI has 350,000 miles on it and the mechanic's wife doesn't want to sell it... It's also a cliché that after about half the MSRP, cars like Mercedes keep their value about the same for about 10 years if one assumes lower mileage, I guess. PL
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| 120394 (536hp) | Just imagine the poor person who will get a great bargain for the 550 you traded in. I will not keep a BMW beyond the basic warranty nor will I buy a used one. Unless you are an experienced mechanic or are very familiar with one, these cars are not normal 200k cars with regular maintenance, especially the V8 engines.
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| Profssor (699hp) | Quote: Originally written by TTG Imagine the poor person who will get a great deal for the 550 you traded in. This.
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| nono12 (350hp) | I loved my jet black 2011 550i with the M Sport package, I lowered it with ACS springs, installed M5 343 wheels with the 255/285 tire setup, installed M5 grills and the M5 exhaust with the M5 diffuser. The car is nice, but it burns oil. It uses a liter every 800-1200 miles and BMW says this is normal and within normal tolerances. Then it started using a quart of oil about every 500 miles and BMW again said it was within normal operating parameters. Fast forward to 103,000 miles, no warranty. One Saturday my wife comes home from shopping and says the oil light has come on again, so I go to put oil in her car. As I pull the oil filler cap off, I notice that there is a reddish-brown residue on the inside of the oil filler tube, so I wipe my finger in it. Looks rusty. I look over and slowly open the coolant collection bottle, which is almost empty. I go to BMW and get a gallon of their antifreeze concentrate, mix up a gallon and put about a quart in the collection bottle. Shit! a blown head gasket. I've never noticed this before because my wife always tells me about the oil when she comes home in the evening. And of course BMW will never tell me anything when the car comes in for service, especially when the warranty is almost expired. Since there is no dipstick, I can't check if the oil looks creamy. All I see is dollar signs – lots of them. I call my service technician at BMW and leave him a message telling him what I found and asking how much I need repaired and if I can get any goodwill from BMW since I've been taking the car there for service since I bought the car. In the meantime, I'll look online to see how much the car is worth. Holy crap! F me! A beautiful engineering masterpiece like this, 6 years old with 103,000 miles, has a trade-in value of $10,000! That's it?! A $50,000 hit in 5 years? My 2011 Duramax diesel truck with almost 200,000 miles is worth over $25,000! On Monday I get a call from my service tech at BMW - repairing one head gasket is $8,800, repairing both sides is $10,800. That's more than the car is worth! I asked if BMW would help, he said they might offer a discount on the parts but that was it. Well, screw BMW! I had the oil changed at an independent BMW mechanic and he said that there was some water in the oil, but not enough to warrant immediate work. He said if I change the oil I'll have time to get rid of the car, but don't wait too long. He said the job would cost him about $7,000 to $9,000 depending on whether I wanted to refinish the heads as well. He says leaky valve guides cause oil consumption. If it was only $5,000 I would do it, but if the transmission breaks within the next 20,000 miles that's another $8,000 to $10,000. I can't take that risk. As much as I wanted another 550, I just couldn't afford to drop more than $50,000 on another car in five years. I want something that will last up to 200,000 miles with easy maintenance. I can understand a water pump or alternator (which has already been replaced), a head gasket shouldn't cost more than the car is worth. The car is gone and the white 2016 Cadillac CTS-V has taken its place. This thing is a beast and I love it, but it doesn't have the finesse that BMW had. Oh, and I already checked, a head gasket repair here only costs $3700. It was fun here in the forum, I have my M5 wheels and tires.
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| IanS100 (834hp) | Don’t feel guilty about a car’s diminished value. Pickup trucks hold their value very, very well. A friend bought a new truck because it was just a bit more expensive than a used truck! The price difference wasn't enough to justify purchasing the new truck!
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| j3o3t3 (693hp) | Quote: Originally written by Chili Palmer I want something that will last up to 200,000 miles with easy maintenance. A Toyota Camry fits this lifestyle perfectly and is exactly what you are looking for.
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| bluebell (766hp) | Quote: Originally written by Chili Palmer I loved my jet black 2011 550i with the M Sport package, I lowered it with ACS springs, installed M5 343 wheels with 255/285 tire setup, installed M5 grilles, installed M5 exhaust with M5 diffuser. The car is nice, but it burns oil. It uses a liter every 800-1200 miles and BMW says this is normal and within normal tolerances. Then it started using a quart of oil about every 500 miles and BMW again said it was within normal operating parameters. Fast forward to 103,000 miles, no warranty. One Saturday my wife comes home from shopping and says the oil light has come on again, so I go to put oil in her car. As I pull the oil filler cap off, I notice that there is a reddish-brown residue on the inside of the oil filler tube, so I wipe my finger in it. Looks rusty. I look over and slowly open the coolant collection bottle, which is almost empty. I go to BMW and get a gallon of their antifreeze concentrate, mix up a gallon and put about a quart in the collection bottle. Shit! a blown head gasket. I've never noticed this before because my wife always tells me about the oil when she comes home in the evening. And of course BMW will never tell me anything when the car comes in for service, especially when the warranty is almost expired. Since there is no dipstick, I can't check if the oil looks creamy. All I see is dollar signs – lots of them. I call my service technician at BMW and leave him a message telling him what I found and asking how much I need repaired and if I can get any goodwill from BMW since I've been taking the car there for service since I bought the car. In the meantime, I'll look online to see how much the car is worth. Holy crap! F me! A beautiful engineering masterpiece like this, 6 years old with 103,000 miles, has a trade-in value of $10,000! That's it?! A $50,000 hit in 5 years? My 2011 Duramax diesel truck with almost 200,000 miles is worth over $25,000! On Monday I get a call from my service tech at BMW - repairing one head gasket is $8,800, repairing both sides is $10,800. That's more than the car is worth! I asked if BMW would help, he said they might offer a discount on the parts but that was it. Well, screw BMW! I had the oil changed at an independent BMW mechanic and he said that there was some water in the oil, but not enough to warrant immediate work. He said if I change the oil I'll have time to get rid of the car, but don't wait too long. He said the job would cost him about $7,000 to $9,000 depending on whether I wanted to refinish the heads as well. He says leaky valve guides cause oil consumption. If it was only $5,000 I would do it, but if the transmission breaks within the next 20,000 miles that's another $8,000 to $10,000. I can't take that risk. As much as I wanted another 550, I just couldn't afford to drop more than $50,000 on another car in five years. I want something that will last up to 200,000 miles with easy maintenance. I can understand a water pump or alternator (which has already been replaced), a head gasket shouldn't cost more than the car is worth. The car is gone and the white 2016 Cadillac CTS-V has taken its place. This thing is a beast and I love it, but it doesn't have the finesse that BMW had. Oh, and I already checked, a head gasket repair here only costs $3700. It was fun here in the forum, I did.
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| MFG (380hp) | That's why it's much better to buy a 1-2 year old CPO!!!!!!!!!!!! AND purchase a Route 66 warranty.
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| dhtlbyf (498hp) | Quote: Originally posted by 535MSport That's why it's much better to buy a 1-2 year old CPO!!!!!!!!!!!! AND purchase a Route 66 warranty. I purchased CPO and all extended warranties ended at 5 years or 100,000 miles, so I was SOL.
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| 07051979 (815hp) | I just bought a fully loaded 2014 550 for 33.5k. The sticker cost about 75,000 4 years ago. Holy devaluation indeed. When the warranty expires this month I'll be picking one up through Route 66 (PenFed) for $50/month. This is how you can own these beasts cheaply.
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| 071293 (554hp) | I looked up the price of my 2012 528i a few weeks ago, but I couldn't get a stripped-down Civic for it. I was shocked. And it has 55,000 miles and is immaculate...LOL. I think the F10 platform in general has lost a lot of value. Luckily I drive it to the ground
|
| 010392 (693hp) | Sounds right to me...that's what, $800 a month in depreciation? If you lease or something...you'd be paying a lot more than that per month. The loss in value is high for exactly the reasons you are selling. Not many people want to take the risk of buying a car with more than 100,000 miles and potentially incurring a $10,000 repair bill.
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| fuckyou07 (727hp) | Quote: Originally posted by BigKutta. I looked up the price of my 2012 528i for fun a few weeks ago and couldn't get a stripped down Civic for it. I was shocked. And it has 55,000 miles and is immaculate...LOL. I think the F10 platform in general has lost a lot of value. Luckily I hit the ground with it. My plan was to crash my car, unfortunately my car didn't have the same plan as me.
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| 15021980 (921hp) | Quote: Originally written by Chili Palmer I loved my jet black 2011 550i with the M Sport package, I lowered it with ACS springs, installed M5 343 wheels with 255/285 tire setup, installed M5 grilles, installed M5 exhaust with M5 diffuser. The car is nice, but it burns oil. It uses a liter every 800-1200 miles and BMW says this is normal and within normal tolerances. Then it started using a quart of oil about every 500 miles and BMW again said it was within normal operating parameters. Fast forward to 103,000 miles, no warranty. One Saturday my wife comes home from shopping and says the oil light has come on again, so I go to put oil in her car. As I pull the oil filler cap off, I notice that there is a reddish-brown residue on the inside of the oil filler tube, so I wipe my finger in it. Looks rusty. I look over and slowly open the coolant collection bottle, which is almost empty. I go to BMW and get a gallon of their antifreeze concentrate, mix up a gallon and put about a quart in the collection bottle. Shit! a blown head gasket. I've never noticed this before because my wife always tells me about the oil when she comes home in the evening. And of course BMW will never tell me anything when the car comes in for service, especially when the warranty is almost expired. Since there is no dipstick, I can't check if the oil looks creamy. All I see is dollar signs – lots of them. I call my service technician at BMW and leave him a message telling him what I found and asking how much I need repaired and if I can get any goodwill from BMW since I've been taking the car there for service since I bought the car. In the meantime, I'll look online to see how much the car is worth. Holy crap! F me! A beautiful engineering masterpiece like this, 6 years old with 103,000 miles, has a trade-in value of $10,000! That's it?! A $50,000 hit in 5 years? My 2011 Duramax diesel truck with almost 200,000 miles is worth over $25,000! On Monday I get a call from my service tech at BMW - repairing one head gasket is $8,800, repairing both sides is $10,800. That's more than the car is worth! I asked if BMW would help, he said they might offer a discount on the parts but that was it. Well, screw BMW! I had the oil changed at an independent BMW mechanic and he said that there was some water in the oil, but not enough to warrant immediate work. He said if I change the oil I'll have time to get rid of the car, but don't wait too long. He said the job would cost him about $7,000 to $9,000 depending on whether I wanted to refinish the heads as well. He says leaky valve guides cause oil consumption. If it was only $5,000 I would do it, but if the transmission breaks within the next 20,000 miles that's another $8,000 to $10,000. I can't take that risk. As much as I wanted another 550, I just couldn't afford to drop more than $50,000 on another car in five years. I want something that will last up to 200,000 miles with easy maintenance. I can understand a water pump or alternator (which has already been replaced), a head gasket shouldn't cost more than the car is worth. The car is gone and the white 2016 Cadillac CTS-V has taken its place. This thing is a beast and I love it, but it doesn't have the finesse that BMW had. Oh, and I already checked, a head gasket repair here only costs $3700. It was fun here in the forum, I did!
|
| caocao (379hp) | Unfortunately, mass-produced BMWs have no value. always. Unless you really have a gem, like a 2002tii or something special.
|
| buttercup0 (551hp) | I found the answer to all of these questions in my 535d...
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| koalabear (219hp) | Quote: Originally written by ItBloo Unfortunately, mass produced BMWs have no value. always. Unless you really have a gem, like a 2002tii or something special. Aside from trucks, anything mass produced has no value.
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| heavychevy (99hp) | I can. Regarding. As much as I love mine, owning it without a warranty was heartbreaking for me. The 550 is truly a dream when you look at it from someone else's perspective... and I just turned 112,000. I can only imagine what will break next. Good luck with your new ride, and as much as I hate American cars, I can only imagine the CTS-V will be a lot more reliable. Good luck, sir
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| logi (50hp) | We all know that a car is not a good investment and at the other end I also think why a 7 year old car with 100,000+ miles should be worth anything at all?
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| 112500 (966hp) | Quote: Originally posted by wrickem We all know that a car is not a good investment, and I'm on the other end too, thinking #34, why should a 7 year old car with 100,000+ miles be worth anything? #34, If If I judge it this way, I think what many have told me is true. A BMW is only good for up to 100,000 km, after which it is junk. And I don't think I believed it when I heard that. I guess these cars are really meant to sit in the driveway and be looked at rather than driven. That's a mistake I won't make again. Who knew a $75,000 car only had the potential to make $100,000 *shrugs*
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| sandhu (566hp) | I can buy a 20 year old Honda for more than a 20 year old BMW
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| 2808 (520hp) | Who knows what our cars will be worth when electric vehicles take over the landscape. I don't care what others think anyway. If it's worth it for me, I'll spend good money on a rebuilt gearbox or engine, realizing that buying a new one is much more expensive. It's usually cheaper to repair older cars than to buy new ones every 100,000 miles or less. I'll just take care of it as best I can and keep a car if it suits my wants and needs. PL
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| Kristina (785hp) | Quote: Originally written by wrickem We all know that a car is not a good investment and I agree, why should a 7 year old car with 100,000+ miles be worth anything? I suspect that with newer technology and materials science, 200,000 miles is the new 100,000 miles. My old E320 CDI has 350,000 miles on it and the mechanic's wife doesn't want to sell it... It's also a cliché that after about half the MSRP, cars like Mercedes keep their value about the same for about 10 years if one assumes lower mileage, I guess. PL
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| 040287 (700hp) | Just imagine the poor person who will get a great bargain for the 550 you traded in. I will not keep a BMW beyond the basic warranty nor will I buy a used one. Unless you are an experienced mechanic or are very familiar with one, these cars are not normal 200k cars with regular maintenance, especially the V8 engines.
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| cowboy! (59hp) | Quote: Originally written by TTG Imagine the poor person who will get a great deal for the 550 you traded in. This.
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| DeeMeas (58hp) | Hello everyone, I have a 2012 535d. I ordered it with a mixed 19-inch wheel and the factory M Sport package, so with deeper springs and the rest of the parts that come with it. It also has active four-wheel steering, but non-adjustable shock absorbers as standard. Early in its life it was fitted with a Hartge control unit which fundamentally changed it. Faster performance, more power and significantly more torque with lower fuel consumption. It has now done about 200,000 km and we decided to keep it for a few more years, I'll do more. I've just fitted some Breyton Fascinate Flow Formed wheels on it as our Australian roads have smashed two of the original alloys. Overall they are also around 20kg lighter, which is a nice plus. I ordered some Hamann and AC Schnitzer aero parts for it to make it look a little different than the others down here, rather than just replacing the stock bumpers and BMW carbon splitter. I've read lots of rave reviews here and elsewhere about KW suspension upgrades AND limited slip diff upgrades that change the way an already pretty good car handles. Has anyone done both? In what order? We would be happy to hear suggestions that offer the best value for money. Thanks!
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| michelle05 (50hp) | Hello everyone, I have a 2012 535d. I ordered it with a mixed 19-inch wheel and the factory M Sport package, so with deeper springs and the rest of the parts that come with it. It also has active four-wheel steering, but non-adjustable shock absorbers as standard. Early in its life it was fitted with a Hartge control unit which fundamentally changed it. Faster performance, more power and significantly more torque with lower fuel consumption. It's now done about 200,000 km and we've decided to keep it for a few more years, I'll do more. I've just fitted some Breyton Fascinate Flow Formed wheels on it as our Australian roads have smashed two of the original alloys. Overall they are also around 20kg lighter, which is a nice plus. I ordered some Hamann and AC Schnitzer aero parts for it to make it look a little different than the others down here, rather than just replacing the stock bumpers and BMW carbon splitter. I've read lots of rave reviews here and elsewhere about KW suspension upgrades AND limited slip diff upgrades that change the way an already pretty good car handles. Has anyone done both? In what order? We would be happy to hear suggestions that offer the best value for money. Thanks!
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| abcabcabc (634hp) | Hello, my rental agreement for my 2015 550 x-Drive is about to expire. The car was equipped with 19 351m wheels and Goodyear Eagle LS-2 RTF (square setup) tires. I have about 300 miles on them. In 2015 I bought a set of F10 M5 20 wheels with a staggered setup and installed the all-season Conti DWS-06 on them. The M5 wheels are a bit worn and the tires aren't really worth much. I wanted to return the lease on these 20 and sell the factory 19 with RTF on my own. I just thought it would be easier to sell almost new starter wheels and tires than beat up 20's... Some people are pickier than others, but as a daily driver I didn't care about scratches (not curb damage though). The question is: Can I return the car with OEM F10 M5 20 rims even though the car came with other 19 OEM rims? Thanks
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| 20031992 (871hp) | NO
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| robot123 (140hp) | Technically it's possible, but you'll have to pay a pretty penny for it
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| psalm119 (55hp) | Yeah that won't happen, no idea why you even bothered TBH, the point of leasing is to not incur costs like 20" wheels and tires when you already have 19s.
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