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oasis123 (756hp) | Quote: Originally posted by zugellos I'll install one. I just haven't found any that I like. Do you have the link to the ones you show here? D'oh! I made the images clickable. Are you saying you're going to put in a red one???
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jaydee1 (919hp) | I think the red looks very sporty and cool.
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455445 (213hp) | I imagine my interior and think it would look out of place. What other colors are there? Carbon fiber?
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potato12 (128hp) | I ordered a red one from Ebay just to see how it looked and fit. It won't be here until mid-November.
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thechamp1 (283hp) | Quote: Originally written by Ironman273 D'oh! I made the images clickable. Are you saying you're going to put in a red one? Yes. If I can find a darker red with a carbon fiber look, that would be awesome.
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joshua08 (396hp) | Quote: Originally posted by zugellos Yes. If I can find a darker red with a carbon fiber look, that would be awesome. agree! a darker red with some carbon fiber would look cute! At least to me, that bright red would stand out like a sore thumb
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250777 (487hp) | I posted this a few days ago and now a number of BMW forums are offering the red start button. Maybe I should buy a lottery ticket?
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starbai (458hp) | Quote: Originally posted by Ironman273 I posted this a few days ago and now a number of BMW forums are offering the red start button. Maybe I should buy a lottery ticket? No... They should have ordered a few and then given them away for a small profit to other forum members who aren't willing to wait a few weeks for them.
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12hat93 (670hp) | Quote: Originally posted by zugellos No... They should have ordered a bunch and then given them away for a small profit to other forum members who aren't willing to wait a few weeks for them. Ha! Now I know for next time...
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almera (274hp) | Does anyone know how to install this? I ordered one and now I'm trying to avoid destroying my trim to replace these..
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dandy1 (189hp) |
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chels1 (315hp) | Quote: Originally posted by Ironman273 I posted this a few days ago and now a number of BMW forums are offering the red start button. Maybe I should buy a lottery ticket? Are you finally getting one? I'm wondering if these buttons are suitable for both switches with and without automatic start/stop function (model year before/after 2011).)
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nineteen19 (288hp) | Quote: Originally written by TZ Are you finally getting one? I'm wondering if these buttons fit both switches with and without automatic start/stop function (model year before/after 2011). I seriously doubt any variant would work for both. Either there are special cutouts in one design and additional tabs in the other that would prevent a proper fit for two different applications.
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sakura12 (624hp) | Quote: Originally written by TZ Are you finally getting one? I'm wondering if these buttons are suitable for both switches with and without automatic start/stop function (model year before/after 2011). I haven't done it yet. I just bought tires and brakes, so I'll probably wait until after the holidays. If you look at the links, there are different buttons for cars with and without auto start/stop.
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chien (244hp) | Quote: Originally posted by E70Msport Does anyone know how to install this? I ordered one and now I'm trying to avoid destroying my fairing to replace it. I think it's easier on an F10 than in the video posted. Check out the 11 second mark of this video. It seems like all you have to do is remove the wooden panel and attach the button to it.
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3737 (528hp) | I would take it a step further and add customer text on it. Many people have the same mods on their car...make your car a little different. When I built my Z I had some custom fender emblems made. OEM is looking if possible. The production models only had “Z”. The ones I made had the Z moved up a bit and a twin turbo fitted underneath. It wouldn't be hard to do something via a start button. I had to make an edition of 10 pairs to make it cheap enough. Otherwise there would have been a sentence $600.
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COBodom (678hp) | Quote: Originally posted by lsturbointeg I imagine my interior and think it would look out of place. What other colors are there? Carbon fiber? There is also the blue version. https://www.x-ph.com/blue-start-stop...stop-function/
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qwedcxz (222hp) | The black START-STOP ENGINE button on my 2013 128i was broken, so I ordered a replacement. They come in several colors, but I like the black. I replaced it today and was surprised at how easy it was - with a few proper tools. Using a firm trim remover with a rounded triangular tip, I pushed it under the switch bezel and carefully pried it away from the dash. It came out about 1/8. I moved the tool to the opposite side of the panel, pushed it in and out popped the entire switch out of the dash. I unplugged the connector and brought the entire assembly in. Using a Spunger tool, those little plastic pieces we use to disassemble computer keyboards, etc., I removed the steel-looking bezel from the switch assembly. To do this, the assembly was turned from bottom to top and each of the four tabs on the panel was carefully levered away from the switch. Only about 1mm of displacement is required for them to come loose. Be gentle. Without the bezel in place, it's easy to see the button's four tabs, which also need to be carefully pushed out of their holders. When that's done, the button pops off, bounces off the floor and lands under your table or desk. Assembly is like putting together kindergarten toys. Carefully snap the new button into the switch, paying attention to the position of the alignment tab. The bezel easily snaps back into place on the switch, also with an alignment tab. Wiggle the connector back onto the switch, line up the switch in the hole in the dash - with the label "right side up" facing up - and push it into the hole. It took twice as long to type as it did. Good luck, kids.
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micaela (152hp) | Quote: Originally posted by HollywoodSquare The black START-STOP ENGINE button on my 2013 128i was starting to break, so I ordered a replacement. They come in several colors, but I like the black. I replaced it today and was surprised at how easy it was - with a few proper tools. Using a firm trim remover with a rounded triangular tip, I pushed it under the switch bezel and carefully pried it away from the dash. It came out about 1/8. I moved the tool to the opposite side of the panel, pushed it in and out popped the entire switch out of the dash. I unplugged the connector and brought the entire assembly in. Using a Spunger tool, those little plastic pieces we use to disassemble computer keyboards, etc., I removed the steel-looking bezel from the switch assembly. To do this, the assembly was turned from bottom to top and each of the four tabs on the panel was carefully levered away from the switch. Only about 1mm of displacement is required for them to come loose. Be gentle. Without the bezel in place, it's easy to see the button's four tabs, which also need to be carefully pushed out of their holders. When that's done, the button pops off, bounces off the floor and lands under your table or desk. Assembly is like putting together kindergarten toys. Carefully snap the new button into the switch, paying attention to the position of the alignment tab. The bezel easily snaps back into place on the switch, also with an alignment tab. Wiggle the connector back onto the switch, line up the switch in the hole in the dash - with the label "right side up" facing up - and push it into the hole. It took me twice as long to type this as it did. Good luck, kids. I replaced the entire switch in my wife's 2012 535i the same way. It took more time to think about it and clean up than to do the actual work.
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DCPattie (259hp) | I got my red button from iND, probably the best mod I've gotten for my car so far. It is durable and does not fade.
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cultura (153hp) | Has anyone ever run a transmission heat exchanger on eBay? https://www.ebay.com/itm/2011-2016-B...0AAOSw4cFeLzTD
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67chevelle (149hp) | Clean it a little, rinse it with distilled water, replace the seals if any and all is well.
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Robert L (858hp) | Quote: Originally written by Unspec. Clean it a little, rinse it with distilled water, replace the seals if any and you'll be fine. ??
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seahawk (192hp) | I think what he's trying to say is that since it's a used part on eBay that you've listed, you'll want to freshen it up as best you can by cleaning it and replacing the seals if necessary. I don't see a problem with using parts from eBay as long as it is the correct part number for your vehicle and you make sure it is cleaned properly so you can be sure there are no foreign objects in it. Edit: If you're asking about retrofitting it into a car that doesn't have this type of radiator from the factory, I don't see a problem as long as you get the correct parts to retrofit it, as is the case with the vehicles that come standard with this type of radiator are.
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bowwow11 (866hp) | Quote: Originally written by 535_BiTurbo ?? What isn't there to get??
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griffey1 (435hp) | Has anyone ever run a transmission heat exchanger on eBay? https://www.ebay.com/itm/2011-2016-B...0AAOSw4cFeLzTD
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sasha111 (200hp) | Clean it a little, rinse it with distilled water, replace the seals if any and all is well.
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11091985 (68hp) | Quote: Originally written by Unspec. Clean it a little, rinse it with distilled water, replace the seals if any and you'll be fine. ??
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22111983 (504hp) | I think what he's trying to say is that since it's a used part on eBay that you've listed, you'll want to freshen it up as best you can by cleaning it and replacing the seals if necessary. I don't see a problem with using parts from eBay as long as it is the correct part number for your vehicle and you make sure it is cleaned properly so you can be sure there are no foreign objects in it. Edit: If you're asking about retrofitting it into a car that doesn't have this type of radiator from the factory, I don't see a problem as long as you get the correct parts to retrofit it, as is the case with the vehicles that come standard with this type of radiator are.
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soccer30 (483hp) | Quote: Originally written by 535_BiTurbo ?? What isn't there to get??
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halo11 (462hp) | My F10 535 will be stored in my garage while I'm out of town for 5 weeks. What precautions do I need to take? The battery is less than 6 months old and I remember reading that you should fill the gas tank to minimize moisture buildup.
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jyjimenez3 (87hp) | If you service the battery and send your insurance on vacation for a month, you will save the fee.
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Will G. (818hp) | You can clean the car, especially the wheels, by inflating the tires to avoid flat spots. Use a few mothballs to deter rodents. You can fill the tank, but five weeks isn't long enough for the gas to go bad. On the last drive before storage, heat the vents to full blast so you don't park the car with moisture in the Havc system
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1goddess (962hp) | Quote: Originally written by VisualEcho Battery Maintainer: If you send your insurance on vacation for a month, you will save the fee. Thanks, I'm going to order a battery tender and that's a great insurance tip.
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cirebon (460hp) | Quote: Originally posted by ScottSinger: You can clean the car, especially the wheels, by inflating the tires to avoid flat spots. Use a few mothballs to deter rodents. You can fill the tank, but five weeks isn't long enough for the gas to go bad. The last time you drove before storage, you ran the heater on full blast, paying attention to the vents so you didn't park the car with moisture in the HAVC system. Thanks for the suggestions, I didn't think about leaving the heater running.
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hatemax (950hp) | You shouldn't need a battery tender for five weeks. Other than rodent, you don't have to do much. Wrapping wire with dryer sheets also helps keep rodents away.
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271187 (615hp) | I disconnected my battery when I had to leave my car for that long, but I didn't know anything about battery tenders at the time.
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558855 (835hp) | Quote: Originally posted by DanG You shouldn't need a battery tender for five weeks. Other than rodent, you don't have to do much. Wrapping wire with dryer sheets also helps keep rodents away. Tender, no, but with a battery guzzler like this car, a service is always a good idea. It can't hurt. I say cheap insurance.
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nike11 (44hp) | I have been using two Deltran battery tenders for over 10 years - one for lead acid and one for gel cells. So a Deltran tender is a maintainer. Other good brands are CTEK and Schumacher. Five weeks – nothing else was really needed, except perhaps protection from rodents. So the lead acid in my 08 128 is still original (12 years old - always stored in winter). My wife's 10 Audi TT is an AGM and still has the original battery (10 years old - stored in winter).)
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lavina (436hp) | If it's only five weeks, I don't think you have to worry about anything.
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excelsior (934hp) | You don't have to do anything.
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bigdaddy23 (993hp) | Do not disconnect the battery or you will have to recode it
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jjj123 (743hp) | Quote: Originally posted by 2013F10 My F10 535 is being stored in my garage while I go out of town for 5 weeks. What precautions do I need to take? The battery is less than 6 months old and I remember reading that you should fill the gas tank to minimize moisture buildup. Only 5 weeks? Battery tender, nothing else I would worry about.
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beauty2 (778hp) | A battery tender is overkill at 5 weeks. I'm just saying
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burberry1 (811hp) | I bought this based on recommendations from others in another thread: https://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B0...KIKX0DER&psc=1 Mainly for self-coding/optimization, but with quarantine Lyfe I'm afraid Unfortunately, I don't drive as much as I used to.
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heaven13 (887hp) | Make sure you don't have a problem with mice. They cause more damage than you can imagine. Good luck
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adriana123 (892hp) | It is not necessary to run the heater to eliminate condensation/moisture in the HVAC system. If it is humid/hot and you turn on the air conditioning just before parking the garage for the 5 week sabbatical, simply run the instant parking ventilation function in iDrive (under CLIMATE). This little feature lets the HVAC fan run for up to 30 minutes without the key or ignition on...and helps evaporate condensation/moisture that creates a breeding ground for bacteria and mold. The product of this love bed is the strange smell that many owners smell when they turn on the air conditioning for the first time. Again, the Instant Parked Car Ventilation feature can help clear the HVAC system of any condensation/moisture residue that results from running the car on a hot/sultry day and then leaving the car in a dark/hot place without (or with very little) air is shut off traffic. Below are examples of screenshots showing what you should pay attention to. The first image is a screenshot if you have the CIC iDrive. The second image is a screenshot if you have the NBT iDrive. If you have NBT/EVO (ID5/ID6) it is similar and I believe is still found under CLIMATE settings in iDrive. To implement this function, the engine CANNOT run. I know that on the CIC and early NBT version the START button must be on but the engine must not be running to initiate the immediate venting feature.
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amitkumar (989hp) | You don't have to do anything.
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BMW FREAK (747hp) | My cars were parked for weeks during quarantine and started immediately every few weeks. 5 weeks should be fine without any preventive measures.
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bram (476hp) | Personally, I have left my car in the garage for many weeks when I am out of town for work and have never had any problems. I ask my wife to drive it around the block every two to three weeks and I haven't had any problems with it yet. I like the idea that someone pointed out over-inflating the tires a bit to fix flat spots on the tires. Maybe I need to try this myself in the future.
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maria22 (761hp) | My F10 535 will be stored in my garage while I'm out of town for 5 weeks. What precautions do I need to take? The battery is less than 6 months old and I remember reading that you should fill the gas tank to minimize moisture buildup.
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kayla69 (869hp) | If you service the battery and send your insurance on vacation for a month, you will save the fee.
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attila1 (912hp) | You can clean the car, especially the wheels, by inflating the tires to avoid flat spots. Use a few mothballs to deter rodents. You can fill the tank, but five weeks isn't long enough for the gas to go bad. On the last drive before storage, heat the vents to full blast so you don't park the car with moisture in the Havc system
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mylove09 (862hp) | Quote: Originally written by VisualEcho Battery Maintainer: If you send your insurance on vacation for a month, you will save the fee. Thanks, I'm going to order a battery tender and that's a great insurance tip.
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steven7 (321hp) | Quote: Originally posted by ScottSinger: You can clean the car, especially the wheels, by inflating the tires to avoid flat spots. Use a few mothballs to deter rodents. You can fill the tank, but five weeks isn't long enough for the gas to go bad. The last time you drove before storage, you ran the heater on full blast, paying attention to the vents so you didn't park the car with moisture in the HAVC system. Thanks for the suggestions, I didn't think about leaving the heater running.
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abhijeet (127hp) | You shouldn't need a battery tender for five weeks. Other than rodent, you don't have to do much. Wrapping wire with dryer sheets also helps keep rodents away.
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appendix (478hp) | I disconnected my battery when I had to leave my car for that long, but I didn't know anything about battery tenders at the time.
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babygrl1 (905hp) | Quote: Originally posted by DanG You shouldn't need a battery tender for five weeks. Other than rodent, you don't have to do much. Wrapping wire with dryer sheets also helps keep rodents away. Tender, no, but with a battery guzzler like this car, a service is always a good idea. It can't hurt. I say cheap insurance.
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hyperlite (744hp) | I have been using two Deltran battery tenders for over 10 years - one for lead acid and one for gel cells. So a Deltran tender is a maintainer. Other good brands are CTEK and Schumacher. Five weeks – nothing else was really needed, except perhaps protection from rodents. So the lead acid in my 08 128 is still original (12 years old - always stored in winter). My wife's 10 Audi TT is an AGM and still has the original battery (10 years old - stored in winter).)
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301194 (672hp) | If it's only five weeks, I don't think you have to worry about anything.
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angellove (59hp) | You don't have to do anything.
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racer (72hp) | Do not disconnect the battery or you will have to recode it
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az123456 (326hp) | Quote: Originally posted by 2013F10 My F10 535 is being stored in my garage while I go out of town for 5 weeks. What precautions do I need to take? The battery is less than 6 months old and I remember reading that you should fill the gas tank to minimize moisture buildup. Only 5 weeks? Battery tender, nothing else I would worry about.
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yungmoney1 (712hp) | A battery tender is overkill at 5 weeks. I'm just saying
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821128 (860hp) | I bought this based on recommendations from others in another thread: https://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B0...KIKX0DER&psc=1 Mainly for self-coding/optimization, but with quarantine Lyfe I'm afraid Unfortunately, I don't drive as much as I used to.
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amour (38hp) | Make sure you don't have a problem with mice. They cause more damage than you can imagine. Good luck
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csehi (158hp) | It is not necessary to run the heater to eliminate condensation/moisture in the HVAC system. If it is humid/hot and you turn on the air conditioning just before parking the garage for the 5 week sabbatical, simply run the instant parking ventilation function in iDrive (under CLIMATE). This little feature lets the HVAC fan run for up to 30 minutes without the key or ignition on...and helps evaporate condensation/moisture that creates a breeding ground for bacteria and mold. The product of this love bed is the strange smell that many owners smell when they turn on the air conditioning for the first time. Again, the Instant Parked Car Ventilation feature can help clear the HVAC system of any condensation/moisture residue that results from running the car on a hot/sultry day and then leaving the car in a dark/hot place without (or with very little) air is shut off traffic. Below are examples of screenshots showing what you should pay attention to. The first image is a screenshot if you have the CIC iDrive. The second image is a screenshot if you have the NBT iDrive. If you have NBT/EVO (ID5/ID6) it is similar and I believe is still found under CLIMATE settings in iDrive. To implement this function, the engine CANNOT run. I know that on the CIC and early NBT version the START button must be on but the engine must not be running to initiate the immediate venting feature.
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trustno (730hp) | You don't have to do anything.
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sheree1 (958hp) | My cars were parked for weeks during quarantine and started immediately every few weeks. 5 weeks should be fine without any preventive measures.
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augusta1 (94hp) | Personally, I have left my car in the garage for many weeks when I am out of town for work and have never had any problems. I ask my wife to drive it around the block every two to three weeks and I haven't had any problems with it yet. I like the idea that someone pointed out over-inflating the tires a bit to fix flat spots on the tires. Maybe I need to try this myself in the future.
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madalina (894hp) | SIB 62-0613, but there are many SBs against the Condition Based Service system. I don't dare say for sure because I don't know which of the various service bulletins or in what combination ultimately worked.
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041296 (16hp) | Quote: Originally posted by cipher5 I got my red button from iND, probably the best mod I've gotten for my car so far. It is durable and does not fade. Does anyone know where to get a replacement off button? The one under the engine start button?
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gabriel23 (958hp) | Hi guys, after having a 530d F11 for four years and then a 530d G30 for another four years, I have just bought a 535d F11 which I am very excited about. Quick question: How do I find the construction/data sheet using the registration number/chassis number? Thanks in advance
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thechamp1 (996hp) | A few weeks after my car was in the shop, I noticed a piece of plastic in the storage compartment of my door. I managed to identify it as a plastic retaining clip, but I'm having a hard time figuring out where it came from and the store says they don't know anything about it (what a surprise). Can anyone help me, I took a few pictures of the clip and the broken piece of plastic.
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221193 (157hp) | Quote: Originally written by RambleJ. Great, so your car needed to be serviced before its build date. LMAO
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180192 (323hp) | Quote: Originally written by RJV3. Does anyone know where to get a replacement off button? The one under the engine start button? Pull up the start/stop button switch in one of the online parts databases, then enter the 11-digit BMW part number into a Google search box to find suppliers that sell the part. For example, enter BMW xx xx x xxx xxx (where x = the actual number found) into a Google/Internet search box. Good luck. By the way, if you don't know about any online parts database sites...here are some: www.realoem.com http://bimmercat.com www.bmwfans.info https://bimmercat.com/bmw/en/Search/... 5i/USA/61_2990
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love2me (869hp) | You could try https://www.mdecoder.com
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isosunrise (24hp) | Quote: Originally posted by ComprehensiveBoss189 A few weeks after my car was in the shop, I noticed a piece of plastic in the storage area of my door. I managed to identify it as a plastic retaining clip, but I'm having a hard time figuring out where it came from and the store says they don't know anything about it (what a surprise). Can someone help me? I took a few pictures of the clip and the broken plastic part. [IMG] [/IMG] What was the purpose of the workshop? Did they have to remove any panels??
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fishtank1 (157hp) | Back to the problem, I did fine for 7 months. Any solution?
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bestmom1 (954hp) | Quote: Originally written by RJV3. Does anyone know where to get a replacement off button? The one under the engine start button? It is part of the start button. They're pretty cheap on eBay.
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Aleksey (157hp) | Quote: Originally posted by SWFLf10 You might try this one: https://www.mdecoder.com Thanks
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alnniea (21hp) | Quote: Originally posted by Dan944 What work did the workshop do? Did any panels need to be removed? Funnily enough, the car was there for a wheel alignment! I had my car washed at a car wash last week, so I can't say for sure that this was done at the shop.
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07Z4M4me (740hp) | I think you have a time machine.
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adamadam (635hp) | Quote: Originally posted by ezaircon4jc Quote: Originally posted by RJV3 Does anyone know where to get a replacement off button? The one under the engine start button? It is part of the start button. They're pretty cheap on eBay. I ordered one on eBay and it only came with the engine start-stop button. I like the black crystal start-stop button for the engine and am looking for the matching glossy black off button
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28111981 (872hp) | Hi guys, after having a 530d F11 for four years and then a 530d G30 for another four years, I have just bought a 535d F11 which I am very excited about. Quick question: How do I find the construction/data sheet using the registration number/chassis number? Thanks in advance
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kiley1 (210hp) | Looks like clips for the door panels.
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261088 (255hp) | Is this covered by SIB? My car is past the 50,000 mile warranty period
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06 (140hp) | Quote: Originally written by RJV3. I ordered one on eBay and it only came with the engine start stop button. I like the black crystal start-stop button for the engine and am looking for the matching glossy black off button. Did you order the right one? correct button?
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12021995 (907hp) | You could try https://www.mdecoder.com
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100788 (185hp) | The door sills also have these clips
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141185 (300hp) | Just saw this popup again for the fourth time in the 1.5 years I've owned the car. They've done the reprogramming, the update, the new instrument cluster... nothing can fix the problem. Any suggestions would be very helpful.
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willow11 (847hp) | Quote: Originally written by RJV3. I ordered one on eBay and it only came with the engine start-stop button. I like the black crystal start stop button for the engine and am looking for the matching gloss black off button, if it doesn't come with the auto/start/stop button then you don't have it in the diagram ordered the correct switch (#3). You must have ordered #1 or #2 in the picture below. Do you buy based on looks alone... or do you buy based on the correct 11-digit BMW Prat number for your car? I posted a direct link to the parts database where you can find the 11 digit BMW part number for item #3...that's what you need to purchase. I have no idea about a crystal start stop engine button. If you are referring to one from a newer G-series BMW, search for the part number again and then run it using the part number search function on the parts database page to see what other BMW models use this button. Just because another BMW uses a crystal button doesn't mean it will work/fit your car. If you are referring to aftermarket switches/knobs, make sure they reveal which BMW models they are suitable for. For example, the button for my F06 and your 5 Series is number 3 in the first picture below...but my F15 X5 uses a switch that looks similar (number 1 in the second picture below)...but the part and part number are completely different and is not compatible with the one used in the 5 and 6 series. {5/6/7 f10/f06/f01 series switch} {X5/X6 F15/F16 switch}
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zinger (654hp) | Quote: Originally posted by SWFLf10 You might try this one: https://www.mdecoder.com Thanks
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hijoputa (441hp) | Thanks for the info, I looked through the assembly plans but couldn't find anything similar to the plastic part that broke off and the door panels and sills appear to be intact on my car.
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music15 (143hp) | Have you already involved your workshop foreman and service manager? If not, if for no other reason than to keep the peace on site, start there when contacting BMWNA to open a trouble ticket for a recurring issue. I got my shop manager and service manager on side with this, and that kept everything friendly, even when I opened a BMWNA case for the issue.
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whyme2 (861hp) | Quote: Originally posted by Qsilver7 Quote: Originally posted by RJV3 I ordered one on eBay and it only came with the engine start stop button... I like the black crystal engine start stop button and am looking for the right one glossy black off button If it did not come with the Auto/Start/Stop button, you did not order the correct switch (#3) in the diagram. You must have ordered #1 or #2 in the picture below. Do you buy based on looks alone... or do you buy based on the correct 11-digit BMW Prat number for your car? I posted a direct link to the parts database where you can find the 11 digit BMW part number for item #3...that's what you need to purchase. I have no idea about a crystal start stop engine button. If you are referring to one from a newer G-series BMW, search for the part number again and then run it using the part number search function on the parts database page to see what other BMW models use this button. Just because another BMW uses a crystal button doesn't mean it's suitable for your car. If you are referring to aftermarket switches/knobs, make sure they reveal which BMW models they are suitable for. For example, the button for my F06 and your 5 Series is number 3 in the first picture below...but my F15 X5 uses a switch that looks similar (number 1 in the second picture below)...but the part and part number are completely different and is not compatible with the one used in the 5 and 6 series. {5/6/7 F10/F06/F01 series switch} {X5/X6 F15/F16 switch} I'm looking for the aftermarket switch rather than an original replacement. For an original replacement I would definitely use a genuine OEM.
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effie (437hp) | 100% Apparently the image doesn't work. This part comes from the entry cover between the A and B pillars.
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QWERTYUI (534hp) | Mine occurred three times. The last update was about a month ago when the retailer received a new update from Germany to fix this issue. So far, so good. Maybe you can go back to the retailer to get the latest patch.
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melbourne1 (962hp) | Quote: Originally posted by Ironman273 I don't usually ask for opinions because I usually do what I like, but here I'm starting an opinion thread. My start stop button is pretty worn out so I wanted to replace it with this: [URL=https://www.ebay.com/itm/New-Start-Stop-Engine-Button-Switch-Cover-For-BMW -5-6-7-F01-F02-F10F11-2009-2013/172716218603?ssPageName=STRK%3AMEBIDX%3AIT&_trksid =p2055119.m1438.l2649] I've always liked the S2000's red start button, but I thought this would don't look like that place in an F10. I went back later and thought it looked pretty good. The next day I thought again it might be too much. So I want to get opinions? Too much? A neat sporty touch? The main problem I've encountered with aftermarket replacement knobs is that they get stuck. They have to be manufactured to very strict tolerances, which is usually not the case. After a week of having a plain red start/stop button, I got tired of it constantly sticking, so I installed the original button and bought a stick-on carbon fiber button that looks great and doesn't stick (and that Of course he is too). also easier to install). See images below for both
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infierno (685hp) | Quote: Originally posted by rowsechser 100% seems like the picture doesn't work...that part comes from the entry cover between the A and B pillars. Thanks, I'll check that too. I had given up hope of finding out where it came from haha
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cupidon (105hp) | Just the thing and the perfect time.
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560038 (58hp) | Quote: Originally written by dzz. The main problem I've noticed with aftermarket replacement knobs is that they get stuck. They have to be manufactured to very strict tolerances, which is usually not the case. After a week of having a plain red start/stop button, I got tired of it constantly sticking, so I installed the original button and bought a stick-on carbon fiber button that looks great and doesn't stick (and that Of course he is too). also easier to install). See images below for both. I like it. It's a little more subtle.
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vfvekmrf (116hp) | A few weeks after my car was in the shop, I noticed a piece of plastic in the storage compartment of my door. I managed to identify it as a plastic retaining clip, but I'm having a hard time figuring out where it came from and the store says they don't know anything about it (what a surprise). Can anyone help me, I took a few pictures of the clip and the broken piece of plastic.
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poopdick1 (386hp) | Hello from Sweden, this just happened to me too. Is there any news on the cause and what can be done to fix it??
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marifer (25hp) | Quote: Originally posted by cipher5 I got my red button from iND, probably the best mod I've gotten for my car so far. It is durable and does not fade. Does anyone know where to get a replacement off button? The one under the engine start button?
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bret (660hp) | Quote: Originally posted by ComprehensiveBoss189 A few weeks after my car was in the shop, I noticed a piece of plastic in the storage area of my door. I managed to identify it as a plastic retaining clip, but I'm having a hard time figuring out where it came from and the store says they don't know anything about it (what a surprise). Can someone help me? I took a few pictures of the clip and the broken plastic part. [IMG] [/IMG] What was the purpose of the workshop? Did they have to remove any panels??
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linkinfrost (51hp) | Quote: Originally written by Nicnoh Hello from Sweden, this just happened to me too. Is there any news about the cause and what can be done to fix the problem? Software error. Have the dealer update the vehicle's software to the latest version.
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justin (83hp) | Quote: Originally written by RJV3. Does anyone know where to get a replacement off button? The one under the engine start button? Pull up the start/stop button switch in one of the online parts databases, then enter the 11-digit BMW part number into a Google search box to find suppliers that sell the part. For example, enter BMW xx xx x xxx xxx (where x = the actual number found) into a Google/Internet search box. Good luck. By the way, if you don't know about any online parts database sites...here are some: www.realoem.com http://bimmercat.com www.bmwfans.info https://bimmercat.com/bmw/en/Search/... 5i/USA/61_2990
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andalucia (632hp) | Quote: Originally posted by Dan944 What work did the workshop do? Did any panels need to be removed? Funnily enough, the car was there for a wheel alignment! I had my car washed at a car wash last week, so I can't say for sure that this was done at the shop.
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rusty5 (699hp) | I had this condition after service at BMW Palm Springs yesterday. Disconnect both cables from the battery for 30 minutes, reconnect, turn on the vehicle in accessory mode, reset the date when prompted, worked perfectly
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fvthbrf (984hp) | Quote: Originally written by RJV3. Does anyone know where to get a replacement off button? The one under the engine start button? It is part of the start button. They're pretty cheap on eBay.
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darkdark (937hp) | Looks like clips for the door panels.
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munchies1 (361hp) | Quote: Originally posted by CJJoePalmDesert I had this condition after service at BMW Palm Springs yesterday. Disconnected both cables from battery for 30 minutes, reconnected, turned on vehicle in accessory mode, reset date when prompted, worked perfectly. You return to exit. The only solution is to update the software to the latest version.
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a456123 (737hp) | Quote: Originally posted by ezaircon4jc Quote: Originally posted by RJV3 Does anyone know where to get a replacement off button? The one under the engine start button? It is part of the start button. They're pretty cheap on eBay. I ordered one on eBay and it only came with the engine start-stop button. I like the black crystal start-stop button for the engine and am looking for the matching glossy black off button
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DMD (298hp) | The door sills also have these clips
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BimmerRalph (832hp) | My car breaks down again. Almost 60,000 miles now. I will reopen my BMWNA case and see what can be done.
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10102000 (825hp) | Quote: Originally written by RJV3. I ordered one on eBay and it only came with the engine start stop button. I like the black crystal start-stop button for the engine and am looking for the matching glossy black off button. Did you order the right one? correct button?
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alexis96 (785hp) | Thanks for the info, I looked through the assembly plans but couldn't find anything similar to the plastic part that broke off and the door panels and sills appear to be intact on my car.
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onedirecti (880hp) | I'm currently at the dealer with this issue and they are updating the software. I still have less than 50,000 miles and am covered under warranty. So I hope this problem doesn't happen again. I will look into Route 66 or Easy Care for an extended warranty.
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281292 (819hp) | Quote: Originally written by RJV3. I ordered one on eBay and it only came with the engine start-stop button. I like the black crystal start stop button for the engine and am looking for the matching gloss black off button, if it doesn't come with the auto/start/stop button then you don't have it in the diagram ordered the correct switch (#3). You must have ordered #1 or #2 in the picture below. Do you buy based on looks alone... or do you buy based on the correct 11-digit BMW Prat number for your car? I posted a direct link to the parts database where you can find the 11 digit BMW part number for item #3...that's what you need to purchase. I have no idea about a crystal start stop engine button. If you are referring to one from a newer G-series BMW, search for the part number again and then run it using the part number search function on the parts database page to see what other BMW models use this button. Just because another BMW uses a crystal button doesn't mean it will work/fit your car. If you are referring to aftermarket switches/knobs, make sure they reveal which BMW models they are suitable for. For example, the button for my F06 and your 5 Series is number 3 in the first picture below...but my F15 X5 uses a switch that looks similar (number 1 in the second picture below)...but the part and part number are completely different and is not compatible with the one used in the 5 and 6 series. {5/6/7 f10/f06/f01 series switch} {X5/X6 F15/F16 switch}
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