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| shutup123 (532hp) | Quote: Originally posted by ramman434 Pretty positive that you can't program VLD into the F10, just like we can't get the anti-glare lights or whatever they're called. It works on the F80s and X5s (I don't know their chassis code). VLD was successfully encoded on my F10 LCI. The lights move just like in the picture above and really make a difference. I coded it with Bimmercode and honestly it's a great feature. GFHB is something I haven't coded however due to mixed results.
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| himitsu (571hp) | Check fuel rail pressure. I was having trouble with a crappy idle that would occasionally stumble. Really annoying. Turns out my LPFP was acting up (fluctuating pressure) which caused the HPFP to run out of fuel and the pressure dropped causing hiccups. I replaced my LPFP and so far I'm having a nice smooth idle.
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| agrawal (574hp) | Quote: Originally written by Qsilver7 What software did you use and what module did you find? The two lines of code for VLD, and just to check... you're using your low beam headlights, right? I only ask the last question because many Bimmer owners confuse VLD and the anti-glare high beam functions. . VLD only works with low beam. The easiest way to determine if VLD is working is to start the engine and stand in front of a wall, garage door, or hill. You can see the driver side headlight moving down/up and left then right. BimmerCode and I used the codes (3073 LaMaster1 in FRM I believe) in your post. There were two places where I had to code. Yes, low beam, I rarely use the high beam. Just went out and checked, only vertical movement, no horizontal.
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| 22021978 (961hp) | Strange. I had a slight stumble when starting. Due to the high mileage, spark plugs and coils were due. Now completely replaced by Bosch and normal.
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| wingwing (42hp) | No need for fancy gimmicks – there are headlight alignment standards. Follow BMW's recommendation to put the systems in the correct state before aiming (you need to take a look at TIS or ISTA). Then this guide is largely relevant for E-Code lighting. https://www.danielsternlighting.com/tech/aim/aim.html
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| 030309 (554hp) | I needed to buy a headlight and finally found an empty housing for a very good price. I bought everything except the main TMS module for the light as I'm not sure which one I need. Could someone give some advice? 2015 BMW F11 LCI Xenon Here are pictures of the current headlight. Attached are also pictures from eBay listings with the modules, which I can't figure out which type I need.
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| luckyman (977hp) | I don't want to spice up this thread, but do you have an update on what happened? Did you have it repaired? I'm currently dealing with the same problem.
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| 26101985 (313hp) | After seeing more posts, I was mistaken, as Unspec suspected, and confused VLD and Anti-Dazzle. I have VLD coded on my 16 LEDs, but it is the anti-glare that we cannot code on the F10s
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| rakker (681hp) | In your first picture BMW calls the control unit Xenon and your original 2015 part part number 63127296090 has been replaced with part number 63117317408 which is attached to the bottom of your headlight assembly. Your third image is what BMW calls a headlight driver module or headlight ballast module. It has many, many part numbers and is mounted to the back of the headlight assembly. So if you don't have adaptive headlights the part number appears to be 63117355073. However, if you have adaptive headlights, the part number will look like it is 63117440877. You will need to use REALOEM.COM to verify the correct part number for your headlight driver module. If a new factory part is not an option, I prefer to source a used factory part from eBay, which may not necessarily be your own. For me, electronics from China are never an option.
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| ville666 (627hp) | Quote: Originally written by David_Vasha. I don't want to spice up this thread, but have you had an update on what happened? Did you have it repaired? I'm currently dealing with the same problem. Currently in the same boat as Gervais. After a few recent fixes, listed below, it runs noticeably smoother. BUT – it’s still not smooth. It still has a very slight roughness. I wouldn't go so far as to call it rough idling, but it's almost like she has a cough (or Covid, lol). But seriously: the speed is stable - although there is a pulsating tremor/noise about every 10 seconds. I've also found that I can feel it more when I hold the steering wheel/keep my foot on the brake than when I just sit there and have no contact with the wheels/brakes. Actually, I just got back today from a new mechanic (highly rated and closer to my home) doing a diagnostic and couldn't feel this roughness. I have a follow-up exam scheduled and will keep you updated. RECENT FIXES: In the summer of 2020 I noticed a very small leak (oil) so I replaced the oil pan gasket + valve cover and gasket (you probably already know this but it is recommended to replace both the VC and VC gasket at the same time since this is difficult to arrive at the parts/labor costs mentioned compared to the parts costs which are only a fraction). Today the attached pictures show in detail what was last done. I'll probably try BMW TSBs (software update) soon. Updates will follow, but let me know if you think I can be of further assistance in the meantime. Relevant links to other issues described here: [ ]
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| 600034 (780hp) | Quote: Originally posted by ramman434 After seeing more posts, I was mistaken, as Unspec suspected, and confused VLD and Anti-Dazzle. I have VLD coded on my 16 LEDs, but it is the anti-glare that we cannot code on the F10s. Thanks for the update. Just FYI (and for the record)... the videos below show the driver's side headlight moving left when starting (not just up/down)...and also moving right/left when switching between driving and reversing. This coding was done using the Bimmercode app on my 2014 f15 X5 50i:
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| sadie7 (204hp) | Sorry to intrude. But I'm assuming I have the same problem as OP. My right daytime running light suddenly went out. (Right-hand drive 528i) In my case it is which module it is?
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| marilin (894hp) | Quote: Originally posted by naCAnItihS Check fuel rail pressure. I was having trouble with a crappy idle that would occasionally stumble. Really annoying. Turns out my LPFP was acting up (fluctuating pressure) which caused the HPFP to run out of fuel and the pressure dropped causing hiccups. I replaced my LPFP and so far I'm having a nice smooth idle. Thanks for sharing. I've read posts where this was the culprit, but I probably won't go back to it until it becomes significantly clearer (I'm currently at the stage where the mechanics don't seem to be feeling this intermittent roughness anymore).)
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| 171179 (137hp) | Quote: Originally written by Qsilver7 Thanks for the update. Just FYI (and for the record)... the videos below show the driver's side headlight moving left when starting (not just up/down)...and also moving right/left when switching between driving and reversing. This coding was done using the Bimmercode app on my 2014 f15 X5 50i: Is your steering wheel turned slightly to the left by any chance? If so, that would be normal for adaptive lights even without VLD.
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| 19841007 (415hp) | Quote: Originally posted by M_Bimmer Your first picture is what BMW calls the Xenon Control Unit and your original 2015 part part number 63127296090 has been replaced with part number 63117317408 which is attached to the bottom of your headlight assembly. Your third image is what BMW calls a headlight driver module or headlight ballast module. It has many, many part numbers and is mounted to the back of the headlight assembly. So if you don't have adaptive headlights, the part number is 63117355073. However, if you have adaptive headlights, the part number is 63117440877. You need to use REALOEM.COM to check the correct part number for your headlight driver module. If a new factory part is not an option, I prefer sourcing a used factory part from eBay, which may not necessarily be your own. For me, electronics from China are never an option. Quote: Originally posted by M_Bimmer Your first picture is what BMW calls the Xenon Control Unit and your original 2015 part part number 63127296090 has been replaced with part number 63117317408 which is attached to the bottom of your headlight assembly. Your third image is what BMW calls a headlight driver module or headlight ballast module. It has many, many part numbers and is mounted to the back of the headlight assembly. So if you don't have adaptive headlights, the part number is 63117355073. However, if you have adaptive headlights, the part number is 63117440877. You need to use REALOEM.COM to check the correct part number for your headlight driver module. If a new factory part is not an option, I prefer sourcing a used factory part from eBay, which may not necessarily be your own. For me, electronics from China are never an option. Thank you for the answer and all the information!
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| ditto1 (57hp) | Good luck man, I hope you make it. I'm on the same path right now and it's driving me crazy. Just hit 120,000 miles but I've been teasing her. I installed new spark plugs and coils in December hoping this would fix the problem. It didn't. I don't really want to go into detail about the injectors as I've never had a failure in my starting procedures and this car is mostly driven on the highway. I'm really starting to think it's a software coincidence considering it's a 2011. I guess I'll find out when I take her to the store this summer.
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| ramsay (116hp) | Quote: Originally written by Walmark. Is your steering wheel by chance turned slightly to the left? If so, that would be normal for adaptive lights even without VLD. No, I'm not touching the steering wheel at all... I'm standing in a Burger King parking lot... and I've stopped right between the two yellow lines on either side of me (westbound). The building the lights shine on is built at an angle. The left side is slightly further away than the right side. By the way, my 2013 650ix GC also has adaptive LED headlights... but those lights are controlled by the FRM module and it doesn't have the encoding parameters to decode VLD to Bimmer code. These headlights do NOT perform the 12° movement of the driver side headlight to the left. Therefore, I know how the adaptive headlights work in the US market, apart from changing the operating function on my F15 X5. And if I remember correctly, the adaptive headlights don't swivel to the left (in a left-hand drive vehicle) when the vehicle is stationary, but to the right. I believe this design requirement (no left panning) is designed to prevent blinding oncoming traffic. The adaptive headlights only swing to the left when a speed criterion is met. In the US market, if you have adaptive headlights with VLD decoding (off), the headlight will continue to homing and move down/up when the engine is started. However, the driver's headlight never moves beyond 12°, as would be the case with active VLD. You can read the description of what happens when STARTING THE ENGINE (reference run takes place) and the City/Urban light distribution (driver's headlight moves 12° to the left) in the following description:
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| thug (331hp) | I needed to buy a headlight and finally found an empty housing for a very good price. I bought everything except the main TMS module for the light as I'm not sure which one I need. Could someone give some advice? 2015 BMW F11 LCI Xenon Here are pictures of the current headlight. Attached are also pictures from eBay listings with the modules, which I can't figure out which type I need.
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| practice1 (46hp) | Hi everyone, I'm new here and really hoping someone with expertise can help. I'll keep this as short and succinct as possible. Car: 2011 BMW 535ix Problem: Rough idle at low speeds, engine misfire error codes, roughness disappears after accelerating but reappears once decelerated to lower engine speeds (approximately 1000 rpm or less). However, very, very rarely do I get a warning about a powertrain malfunction. The problem always goes away when I restart the car and only returns in the next 2-3 months. Troubleshooting so far: Changed all spark plugs and ignition coil. Air filter changed. The intake valves were blasted to prevent carbon deposits from forming, virtually none but still cleaned. Fuel injector cleaner. (everything was done by an experienced and professional mechanic). Misfire codes still appear and the engine continues to run rough (sometimes more aggressive than others). What's remarkable is that it drives perfectly as soon as I step on the gas. The shaking only occurs again when I come to a complete stop or drive very slowly (e.g. idling without accelerating). There are no signs of oil or coolant leaking. It is not uncommon for oil and coolant levels to decrease. Exhaust emissions appear normal (ie no excessive smoke). I hired an experienced mechanic to do a smoke test. No leaks detected. The mechanic says I should change the valve cover assembly. He believes there is air escaping here as he is convinced it is all due to a vacuum leak. I don't see any visible cracks on the valve cover and this part + labor is quite expensive. Before replacing any more parts, I would like to at least make sure this issue is resolved. What do you think could be the cause of this rough idling at low speeds and misfiring? Do you think he's right about the valve cover? Do you think the O2 sensor could have something to do with it? Or worse, the injector (even though I used injector cleaner)? Are there other tests that can help identify the perpetrator before more money is spent??
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| 96321 (101hp) | In your first picture BMW calls the control unit Xenon and your original 2015 part part number 63127296090 has been replaced with part number 63117317408 which is attached to the bottom of your headlight assembly. Your third image is what BMW calls a headlight driver module or headlight ballast module. It has many, many part numbers and is mounted to the back of the headlight assembly. So if you don't have adaptive headlights the part number appears to be 63117355073. However, if you have adaptive headlights, the part number will look like it is 63117440877. You will need to use REALOEM.COM to verify the correct part number for your headlight driver module. If a new factory part is not an option, I prefer to source a used factory part from eBay, which may not necessarily be your own. For me, electronics from China are never an option.
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| Sunflower (863hp) | I have exactly the same problem. Did the same general maintenance on BMW. I have connected to ISTA+ and can see that there are some dropouts. They occur sporadically and are not tied to any cylinder. I received the “Drive Malfunction” error on iDrive twice. The two times I received a "powertrain malfunction" message, it occurred immediately after starting and the car ran PARTICULARLY rough. Switch off, restart immediately - much quieter, no malfunction of the drive train and a misfire here and there. No shadow codes when connected to ISTA+, no check engine light - even if the powertrain malfunction light is on in iDrive. I'm a bit at a loss. Currently I'm leaning towards a PCV problem (or just an air leak in general) as yesterday when I pulled into traffic with the car cool (oil gauge basically cold - coolant around 120 degrees) I heard a high pitched whine coming from the Engine compartment also sounds whiny when starting - but I'm not sure if that's normal for these vehicles (haven't had the car long), and it's perhaps worth noting that my car was CPO and I have all the contract documents dated Dealers have up to approx. 70,000. Currently around 100,000. Current maintenance: Spark plugs (OE, Bosch) less than 500 miles, coolant flush, intake seals, TIA adjustments
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| phialpha (131hp) | Sorry to intrude. But I'm assuming I have the same problem as OP. My right daytime running light suddenly went out. (Right-hand drive 528i) In my case it is which module it is?
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| 020274 (376hp) | PCV is integrated into the valve cover. There are many videos on how to test if the membrane has ruptured. There are repair kits on Ebay, but they are a bit poor.
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| david03 (37hp) | Quote: Originally posted by M_Bimmer Your first picture is what BMW calls the Xenon Control Unit and your original 2015 part part number 63127296090 has been replaced with part number 63117317408 which is attached to the bottom of your headlight assembly. Your third image is what BMW calls a headlight driver module or headlight ballast module. It has many, many part numbers and is mounted to the back of the headlight assembly. So if you don't have adaptive headlights, the part number is 63117355073. However, if you have adaptive headlights, the part number is 63117440877. You need to use REALOEM.COM to check the correct part number for your headlight driver module. If a new factory part is not an option, I prefer sourcing a used factory part from eBay, which may not necessarily be your own. For me, electronics from China are never an option. Quote: Originally posted by M_Bimmer Your first picture is what BMW calls the Xenon Control Unit and your original 2015 part part number 63127296090 has been replaced with part number 63117317408 which is attached to the bottom of your headlight assembly. Your third image is what BMW calls a headlight driver module or headlight ballast module. It has many, many part numbers and is mounted to the back of the headlight assembly. So if you don't have adaptive headlights, the part number is 63117355073. However, if you have adaptive headlights, the part number is 63117440877. You need to use REALOEM.COM to check the correct part number for your headlight driver module. If a new factory part is not an option, I prefer sourcing a used factory part from eBay, which may not necessarily be your own. For me, electronics from China are never an option. Thank you for the answer and all the information!
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| west (626hp) | In my case (at 50,000) it was a spark plug, even though it was replaced at 40,000.
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| summer89 (827hp) | Quote: Originally posted by gervais I have the exact same problem. Did the same general maintenance on BMW. I have connected to ISTA+ and can see that there are some dropouts. They occur sporadically and are not tied to any cylinder. I received the “Drive Malfunction” error on iDrive twice. The two times I received a "powertrain malfunction" message, it occurred immediately after starting and the car ran PARTICULARLY rough. Switch off, restart immediately - much quieter, no malfunction of the drive train and a misfire here and there. No shadow codes when connected to ISTA+, no check engine light - even if the powertrain malfunction light is on in iDrive. I'm a bit at a loss. Currently I'm leaning towards a PCV problem (or just an air leak in general) as yesterday when I pulled into traffic with the car cool (oil gauge basically cold - coolant around 120 degrees) I heard a high pitched whine coming from the Engine compartment heard it also sounds whiny when starting - but I'm not sure if that's normal for these vehicles (haven't had the car long), and it's perhaps worth noting that my car was CPO and I all I have contract documents from the dealer for ~70,000 ~100,000. Last service: plug (OE, Bosch) less than 500 miles. Intake gaskets reset. TIA UPDATE: I replaced the valve cover over the weekend. The engine doesn't run noticeably smoother BUT it still doesn't run smoothly. In general this car is a bit disappointing - the build quality on this BMW is pretty poor (creaking and rattling when you hit MN potholes) There were only a few cars and this was a far better car (even if it had more miles). I'm definitely hypersensitive when it comes to car topics, but that's why I drive BMWs, Audis and Mercedes. I expect something better from BMW. Does anyone else notice this slight bump when idling? PS: I logged into JB4 and observed sensors with ISTA+. JB4 is pretty useless for recording anything other than train journeys (no problems with the car when you pour the coals into it - apart from being stuck at the top of 3rd gear when you pull and release on the shift point). Even before replacing the valve cover, ISTA recorded very few misfires. However, the correction values for the cylinder roughness are consistently present. I have removed the JB4 for now.
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| denis1994 (879hp) | I don't see any coils on your list... If you're that dissatisfied, just sell the car.
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| 130377 (566hp) | Quote: Originally written by tcabill PCV is integrated into the valve cover. There are many videos on how to test if the membrane has ruptured. There are repair kits on Ebay, but they are a bit poor. Can you post links to some of these tests??
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| Darkshear (388hp) | Quote: Originally posted by ezaircon4jc I don't see any coils on your list... If you're that dissatisfied, just sell the car. Duly noted
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| orange20 (651hp) | My best advice I can give is that if you scan the car and list several misfires, it is almost never the coils. Cheap insurance is to change the plugs if you haven't already done so. For me, the code for a low pressure fuel sensor came up when I scanned the DME. It seemed like these could sometimes break on N54 and N55 engines. It's a relatively easy DIY. The code I got was 119201. I hope this helps.
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| 101982 (914hp) | Check fuel rail pressure. I was having trouble with a crappy idle that would occasionally stumble. Really annoying. Turns out my LPFP was acting up (fluctuating pressure) which caused the HPFP to run out of fuel and the pressure dropped causing hiccups. I replaced my LPFP and so far I'm having a nice smooth idle.
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| titties (151hp) | Strange. I had a slight stumble when starting. Due to the high mileage, spark plugs and coils were due. Now completely replaced by Bosch and normal.
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| 1901 (964hp) | I don't want to spice up this thread, but do you have an update on what happened? Did you have it repaired? I'm currently dealing with the same problem.
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| 220877 (832hp) | Quote: Originally written by David_Vasha. I don't want to spice up this thread, but have you had an update on what happened? Did you have it repaired? I'm currently dealing with the same problem. Currently in the same boat as Gervais. After a few recent fixes, listed below, it runs noticeably smoother. BUT – it’s still not smooth. It still has a very slight roughness. I wouldn't go so far as to call it rough idling, but it's almost like she has a cough (or Covid, lol). But seriously: the speed is stable - although there is a pulsating tremor/noise about every 10 seconds. I've also found that I can feel it more when I hold the steering wheel/keep my foot on the brake than when I just sit there and have no contact with the wheels/brakes. Actually, I just got back today from a new mechanic (highly rated and closer to my home) doing a diagnostic and couldn't feel this roughness. I have a follow-up exam scheduled and will keep you updated. RECENT FIXES: In the summer of 2020 I noticed a very small leak (oil) so I replaced the oil pan gasket + valve cover and gasket (you probably already know this but it is recommended to replace both the VC and VC gasket at the same time since this is difficult to arrive at the parts/labor costs mentioned compared to the parts costs which are only a fraction). Today the attached pictures show in detail what was last done. I'll probably try BMW TSBs (software update) soon. Updates will follow, but let me know if you think I can be of further assistance in the meantime. Relevant links to other issues described here: [ ]
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| janke (124hp) | Quote: Originally posted by naCAnItihS Check fuel rail pressure. I was having trouble with a crappy idle that would occasionally stumble. Really annoying. Turns out my LPFP was acting up (fluctuating pressure) which caused the HPFP to run out of fuel and the pressure dropped causing hiccups. I replaced my LPFP and so far I'm having a nice smooth idle. Thanks for sharing. I've read posts where this was the culprit, but I probably won't go back to it until it becomes significantly clearer (I'm currently at the stage where the mechanics don't seem to be feeling this intermittent roughness anymore).)
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| 141186 (687hp) | Good luck man, I hope you make it. I'm on the same path right now and it's driving me crazy. Just hit 120,000 miles but I've been teasing her. I installed new spark plugs and coils in December hoping this would fix the problem. It didn't. I don't really want to go into detail about the injectors as I've never had a failure in my starting procedures and this car is mostly driven on the highway. I'm really starting to think it's a software coincidence considering it's a 2011. I guess I'll find out when I take her to the store this summer.
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| tarnay1 (455hp) | I'm trying to figure out what is required to make such a switch from semi-electric to fully electric sport seats and from unheated to heated sport seats. With a bit of luck I found information about retrofitting a heater, but nothing about retrofitting electric seats! From my current research everyone says the ports are different and maybe some are missing? If so, how can this be changed or what is required? I'm sure this should be possible since the seats themselves have all motors and controls and only require power? I would appreciate any feedback as my current seats are damaged and need to be replaced. However, I want to make sure this is possible before purchasing fully electric seats! I also understand that the seats must be of the LCI model as they are not interchangeable between LCI and pre-LCI. The car is a 2015 LCI BMW F11
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| RectalItching (564hp) | Search for E90 seat swap. Essentially the same thing, but the F10 features an updated, larger seat module. I did an M3 seat swap on my son's 2006 E90 325i for 2012 M3 seats and it had the same larger white seat module that I have in my 2011 550i. It had the orange and green Kcan-H and Kcan-L cables for the memory driver seat, but none for the passenger seat. I ran new KCAN wires through a wiring harness from the driver's seat to the passenger's seat. The Kcan cables send a signal from time to time to keep the seat module awake, otherwise it will stop working. You will need to plug in your seat connector from the vehicle side and the seat side to check where the wires are located. I have found that from year to year and even between different models, the positive wire (red), ground wire (brown), and some of the other wires for the lumbar switches can be in slightly different locations in the seat connector (x279). Depending on the seat-side wiring, you may need to add additional power or ground to the passenger seat. Some vehicle-side cables have two power and two ground cables. I think it's because the electric lumbar is on a different circuit. If the seat requires two from the vehicle side and IF the seat side cable is a small diameter cable, I think usually for the lumbar, then most people have tapped the seat side power cable to avoid that a new power cable is laid Keep the installation clean and in its original condition. The same applies to the floor. Heated seats may require separate power and grounding to avoid power overload. For heated seats, I've seen some need to code the car so the FRM module knows there are now heated seats, and few people haven't done that. It seems that most actually had to code, but when it comes to coding it's still hit or miss. Eric
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| suganya (954hp) | I'm trying to figure out what is required to make such a switch from semi-electric to fully electric sport seats and from unheated to heated sport seats. With a bit of luck I found information about retrofitting a heater, but nothing about retrofitting electric seats! From my current research everyone says the ports are different and maybe some are missing? If so, how can this be changed or what is required? I'm sure this should be possible since the seats themselves have all motors and controls and only require power? I would appreciate any feedback as my current seats are damaged and need to be replaced. However, I want to make sure this is possible before purchasing fully electric seats! I also understand that the seats must be of the LCI model as they are not interchangeable between LCI and pre-LCI. The car is a 2015 LCI BMW F11
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| easier (451hp) | Search for E90 seat swap. Essentially the same thing, but the F10 features an updated, larger seat module. I did an M3 seat swap on my son's 2006 E90 325i for 2012 M3 seats and it had the same larger white seat module that I have in my 2011 550i. It had the orange and green Kcan-H and Kcan-L cables for the memory driver seat, but none for the passenger seat. I ran new KCAN wires through a wiring harness from the driver's seat to the passenger's seat. The Kcan cables send a signal from time to time to keep the seat module awake, otherwise it will stop working. You will need to plug in your seat connector from the vehicle side and the seat side to check where the wires are located. I have found that from year to year and even between different models, the positive wire (red), ground wire (brown), and some of the other wires for the lumbar switches can be in slightly different locations in the seat connector (x279). Depending on the seat-side wiring, you may need to add additional power or ground to the passenger seat. Some vehicle-side cables have two power and two ground cables. I think it's because the electric lumbar is on a different circuit. If the seat requires two from the vehicle side and IF the seat side cable is a small diameter cable, I think usually for the lumbar, then most people have tapped the seat side power cable to avoid that a new power cable is laid Keep the installation clean and in its original condition. The same applies to the floor. Heated seats may require separate power and grounding to avoid power overload. For heated seats, I've seen some need to code the car so the FRM module knows there are now heated seats, and few people haven't done that. It seems that most actually had to code, but when it comes to coding it's still hit or miss. Eric
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| Raja Ventureshield (823hp) | In January I found out my engine was muddy from the original owner. After driving about 1500 miles I had the LM engine flushed before doing another oil change and adding Cera Tec to extend the life of my abused engine. I found this bad boy in the oil filter: The engine runs perfectly and everything else on the car is adjusted, but I'm worried about holding the bag if the engine breaks. Should I dismantle the car and throw it away, or will I overreact and be able to drive my neglected engine for a few more years??
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| 329329 (563hp) | Hey Nickco43, I thought you were going to get rid of your F10 anyway... After ALL the work you put into your car, you should drive it around until the engine causes a serious problem and then remove it... I could do that do I'm even interested in some of your parts at this point....:-) your exterior color with my interior....hmmm....
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| charizard1 (23hp) | Quote: Originally posted by M_Bimmer Hi Nickco43, I thought you were going to get rid of your F10 anyway... After ALL the work you put into your car, you should drive it around until the engine causes a serious problem and then take it apart out...Maybe I'll even be interested in some of your parts back then....:-) Your exterior color with my interior....hmmm.... I tend to drive the car around until the engine grenades, but I want to at least a few years of it have of it before it happens. Even if I wanted to get rid of it, I would feel guilty giving the car to someone else who knew the condition of the engine.
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| niwad25 (969hp) | Good to hear... Maybe an engine rebuild is in the cards in the future?
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| 19861026 (159hp) | Quote: Originally written by M_Bimmer Good to hear... Maybe an engine rebuild is in the future? I drove the car after the oil change + Cera Tec and it runs better than ever. I have no idea how an engine covered in metal shavings runs perfectly. What I tell myself to make myself feel better is that all these metal shavings got stuck in the engine sludge and the engine cleaner flushed them all out. Unless GME rises to a share of $10,000, I will drive the car until it explodes. It's a shame that this engine is broken since I spent so much time and money on it. At least that was a lesson young people had learned.
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| ciccina (320hp) | I installed stock spark plugs in the car and removed MHD. The car wouldn't go faster than 15 mph before it started jerking and leaning outward. I flashed card 0 and the car runs and drives now but there is an air intake code and a CEL.
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| mariem (814hp) | Quote: Originally posted by M_Bimmer Hi Nickco43, I thought you were going to get rid of your F10 anyway... After ALL the work you put into your car, you should drive it around until the engine causes a serious problem and then take it apart out...Maybe I'll even be interested in some of your parts back then....:-) Your exterior color with my interior....hmmm.... I'm removing all my aftermarket upgrades and selling the car. I'm done with this car and the fourth owner can handle this shit.
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| ilovedan1 (202hp) | Sorry Nick... good thing you didn't go through the Merino leather dash and door panels. You might as well sell ALL the aftermarket upgrades with the car... the next owner might need them to feel good about buying... .. If you're mad now, don't calculate your ROI. Just be happy with the returns on your Gamestop stock....
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| 21111984 (802hp) | Quote: Originally posted by M_Bimmer Sorry Nick... good thing you didn't go through the Merino leather dash and door panels. You might as well sell ALL your aftermarket upgrades with the car... the next owner might need them to feel good about their purchase... If you're mad now, don't calculate your ROI... be Just happy with your Gamestop stock returns.... I plan on removing the wheels and tires, front bumper and 6wb, NBT Evo, M sport steering wheel and airbag, soft close doors and possibly the electric trunk. I want to remove my ACC parts but can't bring myself to remove the DSC pump again. I'm super happy that I can buy back my blue E90, which has been beautifully adjusted and sorted. It will be cheap, reliable transportation as I start my life.
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| keri (743hp) | If I were you, I would keep the car and drive it as is. They put a lot of work and money into adding all these nice features, only to undo it?
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| train123 (99hp) | Quote: Originally posted by Nickco43 In January I found out my engine was muddied by the original owner. After driving about 1500 miles I had the LM engine flushed before doing another oil change and adding Cera Tec to extend the life of my abused engine. I found this bad boy in the oil filter: The engine runs perfectly and everything else on the car is adjusted, but I'm worried about holding the bag if the engine breaks. Should I take the car apart and throw it away, or do I overreact and get a few more years out of my neglected engine? What exactly is the Cera-Tech treatment you mentioned??
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| blackfire (395hp) | Quote: Originally posted by F10c550i What exactly is the Cera-Tech treatment you mentioned? Liqui Moly ceratec https://products.liqui-moly.com/cera-tec-2.html Some say it's snake oil, others say it works, use your own judgment
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| jerry3 (377hp) | I spoke to my SA today and he said they might be able to help me install a new rebuilt engine. Recently a customer wanted to rebuild an engine for his X3 and the purchase price was $10,000. I'm wondering if BMW NA could help me as I think at around $8,000 it would be worth trading in a brand new engine.
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| harmonie (428hp) | Quote: Originally posted by Nickco43 I spoke to my SA today and he said they might be able to help me install a new rebuilt engine. Recently a customer wanted to rebuild an engine for his X3 and the purchase price was $10,000. I'm wondering if BMW NA could help me as I think at around $8,000 it would be worth trading in a brand new engine. You might want to reconsider. Why replace something that isn't even broken? Keep the money aside in case it explodes
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| lifesgood (951hp) | Quote: Originally posted by OnlyGerman You might want to reconsider. Why replace something that isn't even broken? Keep the money aside. IF it does explode, I'll see what my SA says, but I won't keep the car without a proven good engine. I'm starting my life in a few months and the last thing I need is the engine blowing up while moving or on my first day at work. Now it's time to either buy back my old E90 or have the engine replaced by a dealer I trust 100%. I don't have to worry about other problems if I live in an apartment building and don't know where I can work on the F10.
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| kuldeep (371hp) | You may want to perform a Blackstone oil analysis to determine the extent of the damage. Your engine could still have a lot of life left in it.
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| hunter24 (950hp) | Quote: Originally posted by Gjohnson7 You may want to perform a Blackstone oil analysis to determine the extent of the damage. Your engine could still have a lot of life left in it. I second that. Clearly the engine has been neglected, but after a flush and oil change, the oil currently in there would be a better indicator of engine life. Your air mass and pressure errors have nothing to do with the mechanical internals of the engine, so it's worth investing $30 to $40 to test the oil.
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| blake3 (379hp) | Quote: Originally posted by 95blkmax Quote: Originally posted by Gjohnson7 You may want to perform a Blackstone oil analysis to determine the extent of the damage. Your engine could still have a lot of life left in it. I second that. Clearly the engine has been neglected, but after a flush and oil change, the oil currently in there would be a better indicator of engine life. Your air mass and pressure errors have nothing to do with the mechanical internals of the engine, so it's worth investing $30 to $40 to test the oil. Agreed. I think it would have exploded by now. No reason to freak out and change the engine prematurely, which is a terrible financial decision, especially on a 100,000-year-old, 10-year-old car.
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| hulkster (766hp) | Quote: Originally posted by OnlyGerman Agreed. I think it would have exploded by now. No reason to freak out and change the engine prematurely, which is a terrible financial decision, especially on a 100,000-year-old, 10-year-old car. I spoke to the dealer's technician and it could be camshaft wear that is causing the trouble codes. I'm not convinced it's just a sensor yet, but I'm also not convinced about installing a new motor yet. As far as finances go, I'm 20k in the car. I estimate that the car is worth about $10,000 in its current condition with all of my upgrades removed. I can take out my 6wb, nbt evo, my wheels and all the other parts I put on the car and sell them for 4,000 to 5,000 which would mean I incur a loss of $5,000. If the engine actually pops, the car is only worth about $3,000 to $4,000, leaving me with a loss of about $12,000. 2011 N55 cars have connecting rod bearing problems even when fixed. Mine was abused. Let's assume the car lasts another two years as it stands. Every day I would worry if today is the last day of this pos engine and I'm stuck somewhere. Not to mention I'm a bit picky and would be in a hurry to find a replacement vehicle and who knows if this used car crisis would be over by then. The opportunity to buy back my old E90, a notoriously good car, for the same price of $4,000 that I sold it to the guy for is hard to pass up. At the same time, with the help of the FCP Euro Lifetime Warranty, GME, a $100 an hour labor rate at my rural PA dealer, my 25-30% discount with the dealer parts manager, and *maybe* the blessing of BMW NA, which helps me As far as the cost of replacing the engine is concerned, I can reduce the cost of replacing the engine enough that it would be worth having a brand new, reconditioned engine that will last for many years to come holds up so I can enjoy all the hard work I've put into my F10 without worry.
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| logmein (630hp) | Quote: Originally written by Nickco43. I spoke to the dealer's master technician and determined that the trouble codes could be caused by camshaft wear. I'm not convinced it's just a sensor yet, but I'm also not convinced about installing a new motor yet. As far as finances go, I'm 20k in the car. I estimate that the car is worth about $10,000 in its current condition with all of my upgrades removed. I can take out my 6wb, nbt evo, my wheels and all the other parts I put on the car and sell them for 4,000 to 5,000 which would mean I incur a loss of $5,000. If the engine actually pops, the car is only worth about $3,000 to $4,000, leaving me with a loss of about $12,000. 2011 N55 cars have connecting rod bearing problems even when fixed. Mine was abused. Let's assume the car lasts another two years as it stands. Every day I would worry if today is the last day of this pos engine and I'm stuck somewhere. Not to mention I'm a bit picky and would be in a hurry to find a replacement vehicle and who knows if this used car crisis would be over by then. The opportunity to buy back my old E90, a notoriously good car, for the same price of $4,000 that I sold it to the guy for is hard to pass up. At the same time, with the help of the FCP Euro Lifetime Warranty, GME, a $100 an hour labor rate at my rural PA dealer, my 25-30% discount with the dealer parts manager, and *maybe* the blessing of BMW NA, which helps me As far as the cost of replacing the engine is concerned, I can reduce the cost of replacing the engine enough that it would be worth having a brand new, reconditioned engine that will last for many years to come holds up so I can enjoy all the hard work I've put into my F10 without worry. How about a used engine from a later year??
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| saltanat (52hp) | Quote: Originally written by Unspec. What about a used engine from a later model year? $4.5-5k for the engine and $2,500 for labor.
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| 190285 (426hp) | Quote: Originally posted by Nickco43 2011 N55 cars have connecting rod bearing problems even if they are fixed. Only in my opinion I would change this statement. 2010 and 2011 N55 models are more likely to experience connecting rod bearing problems, but it's far from certain death for all 2011 models. BUT! How many of these are people with older cars who decided to do the OFHG work themselves and didn't do the required oil system prep? Additionally, priming was only mandated after failures occurred, which would largely have been the case first on older vehicles. The internet amplifies everything bad and failure threads are everywhere with ANOTHER 2011!!!! copied. A long time ago I regularly performed Blackstone analysis. I started again and told them exactly what material was in the rod bearings. So far there have been no signs of problems with my 2011, including the connecting rod bearings. Honestly, I'm probably more concerned about fuel, coolant and shear than bearing material, but of course if metals show up I need to know. Coolant and oil can mix in my OFH design, injector failures and short COVID trips can cause severe fuel dilution, etc...
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| missing1 (823hp) | In January I found out my engine was muddy from the original owner. After driving about 1500 miles I had the LM engine flushed before doing another oil change and adding Cera Tec to extend the life of my abused engine. I found this bad boy in the oil filter: The engine runs perfectly and everything else on the car is adjusted, but I'm worried about holding the bag if the engine breaks. Should I dismantle the car and throw it away, or will I overreact and be able to drive my neglected engine for a few more years??
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| 08041984 (400hp) | Hey Nickco43, I thought you were going to get rid of your F10 anyway... After ALL the work you put into your car, you should drive it around until the engine causes a serious problem and then remove it... I could do that do I'm even interested in some of your parts at this point....:-) your exterior color with my interior....hmmm....
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| Marine (701hp) | Quote: Originally posted by M_Bimmer Hi Nickco43, I thought you were going to get rid of your F10 anyway... After ALL the work you put into your car, you should drive it around until the engine causes a serious problem and then take it apart out...Maybe I'll even be interested in some of your parts back then....:-) Your exterior color with my interior....hmmm.... I tend to drive the car around until the engine grenades, but I want to at least a few years have it before the time comes. Even if I wanted to get rid of it, I would feel guilty giving the car to someone else who knew the condition of the engine.
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| 260696 (232hp) | Good to hear... Maybe an engine rebuild is in the cards in the future?
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| blueridger (59hp) | Quote: Originally written by M_Bimmer Good to hear... Maybe an engine rebuild is in the future? I drove the car after the oil change + Cera Tec and it runs better than ever. I have no idea how an engine covered in metal shavings runs perfectly. What I tell myself to make myself feel better is that all these metal shavings got stuck in the engine sludge and the engine cleaner flushed them all out. Unless GME rises to a share of $10,000, I will drive the car until it explodes. It's a shame that this engine is broken since I spent so much time and money on it. At least that was a lesson young people had learned.
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| vito (822hp) | I installed stock spark plugs in the car and removed MHD. The car wouldn't go faster than 15 mph before it started jerking and leaning outward. I flashed card 0 and the car runs and drives now but there is an air intake code and a CEL.
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| 1234567qwertyu (693hp) | Quote: Originally posted by M_Bimmer Hi Nickco43, I thought you were going to get rid of your F10 anyway... After ALL the work you put into your car, you should drive it around until the engine causes a serious problem and then take it apart out...Maybe I'll even be interested in some of your parts back then....:-) Your exterior color with my interior....hmmm.... I'm removing all my aftermarket upgrades and selling the car. I'm done with this car and the fourth owner can handle this shit.
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| Theride (484hp) | Sorry Nick... good thing you didn't go through the Merino leather dash and door panels. You might as well sell ALL the aftermarket upgrades with the car... the next owner might need them to feel good about buying... .. If you're mad now, don't calculate your ROI. Just be happy with the returns on your Gamestop stock....
|
| 17011989 (161hp) | Quote: Originally posted by M_Bimmer Sorry Nick... good thing you didn't go through the Merino leather dash and door panels. You might as well sell ALL your aftermarket upgrades with the car... the next owner might need them to feel good about their purchase... If you're mad now, don't calculate your ROI... be Just happy with your Gamestop stock returns.... I plan on removing the wheels and tires, front bumper and 6wb, NBT Evo, M sport steering wheel and airbag, soft close doors and possibly the electric trunk. I want to remove my ACC parts but can't bring myself to remove the DSC pump again. I'm super happy that I can buy back my blue E90, which has been beautifully adjusted and sorted. It will be cheap, reliable transportation as I start my life.
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| sharpei (74hp) | If I were you, I would keep the car and drive it as is. They put a lot of work and money into adding all these nice features, only to undo it?
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| 200484 (752hp) | Quote: Originally posted by Nickco43 In January I found out my engine was muddied by the original owner. After driving about 1500 miles I had the LM engine flushed before doing another oil change and adding Cera Tec to extend the life of my abused engine. I found this bad boy in the oil filter: The engine runs perfectly and everything else on the car is adjusted, but I'm worried about holding the bag if the engine breaks. Should I take the car apart and throw it away, or do I overreact and get a few more years out of my neglected engine? What exactly is the Cera-Tech treatment you mentioned??
|
| flyga3 (241hp) | Quote: Originally posted by F10c550i What exactly is the Cera-Tech treatment you mentioned? Liqui Moly ceratec https://products.liqui-moly.com/cera-tec-2.html Some say it's snake oil, others say it works, use your own judgment
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| doherty (96hp) | I spoke to my SA today and he said they might be able to help me install a new rebuilt engine. Recently a customer wanted to rebuild an engine for his X3 and the purchase price was $10,000. I'm wondering if BMW NA could help me as I think at around $8,000 it would be worth trading in a brand new engine.
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| kok (288hp) | Quote: Originally posted by Nickco43 I spoke to my SA today and he said they might be able to help me install a new rebuilt engine. Recently a customer wanted to rebuild an engine for his X3 and the purchase price was $10,000. I'm wondering if BMW NA could help me as I think at around $8,000 it would be worth trading in a brand new engine. You might want to reconsider. Why replace something that isn't even broken? Keep the money aside in case it explodes
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| atomsapple (702hp) | Hello, I am a BMW owner and live in Korea. I would like to know the identity of some cables in my car. I want to know the identity of the red cable and wiring from the 5th picture. Does anyone know the role of this wiring? If anyone needs a detailed photo I can provide it.
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| hjvfynbrf (534hp) | Quote: Originally posted by OnlyGerman You might want to reconsider. Why replace something that isn't even broken? Keep the money aside. IF it does explode, I'll see what my SA says, but I won't keep the car without a proven good engine. I'm starting my life in a few months and the last thing I need is the engine blowing up while moving or on my first day at work. Now it's time to either buy back my old E90 or have the engine replaced by a dealer I trust 100%. I don't have to worry about other problems if I live in an apartment building and don't know where I can work on the F10.
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| 18071979 (674hp) | There are no OEM ground wires on the strut bridge, so it is an aftermarket item. No one here can tell you exactly what that is because we can't see the car in person.
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| john18 (909hp) | You may want to perform a Blackstone oil analysis to determine the extent of the damage. Your engine could still have a lot of life left in it.
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| jake02 (485hp) | Not a factory installed item... OP, are you willing to cut the two zip ties and take a photo? Apparently someone routed the power from the back of the car to the front...but it's too hard to determine what's wrapped up and zip-tied...It and power to...(?)...the black one The pipe looks like a rigged vacuum line...but it's really too hard to tell....
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| 400019 (994hp) | Quote: Originally posted by Gjohnson7 You may want to perform a Blackstone oil analysis to determine the extent of the damage. Your engine could still have a lot of life left in it. I second that. Clearly the engine has been neglected, but after a flush and oil change, the oil currently in there would be a better indicator of engine life. Your air mass and pressure errors have nothing to do with the mechanical internals of the engine, so it's worth investing $30 to $40 to test the oil.
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| charlie1 (479hp) | Of course I know it comes with an aftermarket. I just wanted to know the exact purpose of the wiring.
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| 512345 (222hp) | Quote: Originally posted by 95blkmax Quote: Originally posted by Gjohnson7 You may want to perform a Blackstone oil analysis to determine the extent of the damage. Your engine could still have a lot of life left in it. I second that. Clearly the engine has been neglected, but after a flush and oil change, the oil currently in there would be a better indicator of engine life. Your air mass and pressure errors have nothing to do with the mechanical internals of the engine, so it's worth investing $30 to $40 to test the oil. Agreed. I think it would have exploded by now. No reason to freak out and change the engine prematurely, which is a terrible financial decision, especially on a 100,000-year-old, 10-year-old car.
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| Lode_BMW (686hp) | Quote: Originally written by Unspec. There is no OEM cable grounded to the strut bridge, so it is an aftermarket kit. No one here can tell you exactly what that is because we can't see the car in person. I just wanted to know the exact purpose of the wiring.
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| 13091992 (664hp) | Quote: Originally posted by OnlyGerman Agreed. I think it would have exploded by now. No reason to freak out and change the engine prematurely, which is a terrible financial decision, especially on a 100,000-year-old, 10-year-old car. I spoke to the dealer's technician and it could be camshaft wear that is causing the trouble codes. I'm not convinced it's just a sensor yet, but I'm also not convinced about installing a new motor yet. As far as finances go, I'm 20k in the car. I estimate that the car is worth about $10,000 in its current condition with all of my upgrades removed. I can take out my 6wb, nbt evo, my wheels and all the other parts I put on the car and sell them for 4,000 to 5,000 which would mean I incur a loss of $5,000. If the engine actually pops, the car is only worth about $3,000 to $4,000, leaving me with a loss of about $12,000. 2011 N55 cars have connecting rod bearing problems even when fixed. Mine was abused. Let's assume the car lasts another two years as it stands. Every day I would worry if today is the last day of this pos engine and I'm stuck somewhere. Not to mention I'm a bit picky and would be in a hurry to find a replacement vehicle and who knows if this used car crisis would be over by then. The opportunity to buy back my old E90, a notoriously good car, for the same price of $4,000 that I sold it to the guy for is hard to pass up. At the same time, with the help of the FCP Euro Lifetime Warranty, GME, a $100 an hour labor rate at my rural PA dealer, my 25-30% discount with the dealer parts manager, and *maybe* the blessing of BMW NA, which helps me As far as the cost of replacing the engine is concerned, I can reduce the cost of replacing the engine enough to make it worth buying a brand new remanufactured engine that will last for many years to come and I can enjoy all the hard work I put into my F10 engine without any worries.
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| 71717171 (827hp) | Quote: Originally written by M_Bimmer. Not a factory installed item. OP, are you willing to cut the two zip ties and take a photo? Apparently someone routed the power from the back of the car to the front...but it's too hard to determine what's wrapped up and zip-tied...It and power to...(?)...the black one The pipe looks like a tampered vacuum line... but it's really too hard to tell... My car has a variable exhaust system. Is this system related to the wiring? My variable exhaust system opens and closes the vacuum.
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| gblfhfcs (497hp) | Quote: Originally written by Nickco43. I spoke to the dealer's master technician and determined that the trouble codes could be caused by camshaft wear. I'm not convinced it's just a sensor yet, but I'm also not convinced about installing a new motor yet. As far as finances go, I'm 20k in the car. I estimate that the car is worth about $10,000 in its current condition with all of my upgrades removed. I can take out my 6wb, nbt evo, my wheels and all the other parts I put on the car and sell them for 4,000 to 5,000 which would mean I incur a loss of $5,000. If the engine actually pops, the car is only worth about $3,000 to $4,000, leaving me with a loss of about $12,000. 2011 N55 cars have connecting rod bearing problems even when fixed. Mine was abused. Let's assume the car lasts another two years as it stands. Every day I would worry if today is the last day of this pos engine and I'm stuck somewhere. Not to mention I'm a bit picky and would be in a hurry to find a replacement vehicle and who knows if this used car crisis would be over by then. The opportunity to buy back my old E90, a notoriously good car, for the same price of $4,000 that I sold it to the guy for is hard to pass up. At the same time, with the help of the FCP Euro Lifetime Warranty, GME, a $100 an hour labor rate at my rural PA dealer, my 25-30% discount with the dealer parts manager, and *maybe* the blessing of BMW NA, which helps me As far as the cost of replacing the engine is concerned, I can reduce the cost of replacing the engine enough to make it worth buying a brand new remanufactured engine that will last for many years to come and I can enjoy all the hard work I put into my F10 engine without any worries. How about a used engine from a later year??
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| orquidea (336hp) | Nobody will know what that is. All we can determine is that there is a ground wire attached to your strut tower. I would recommend tracing the wire to see what it connects to on the other end. It should be some kind of module. Take a photo of this module and possibly include the module model number. We can help you find out.
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| 220284 (323hp) | Quote: Originally written by Unspec. What about a used engine from a later model year? $4.5-5k for the engine and $2,500 for labor.
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| 04101989 (932hp) | Quote: Originally written by Hoa. Nobody will know what that is. All we can determine is that there is a ground wire attached to your strut tower. I would recommend tracing the wire to see what it connects to on the other end. It should be some kind of module. Take a photo of this module and possibly include the module model number. We can help you find out. Copy that. I'll try to find the module.
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| skaterboy (120hp) | Quote: Originally posted by Nickco43 2011 N55 cars have connecting rod bearing problems even if they are fixed. Only in my opinion I would change this statement. 2010 and 2011 N55 models are more likely to experience connecting rod bearing problems, but it's far from certain death for all 2011 models. BUT! How many of these are people with older cars who decided to do the OFHG work themselves and didn't do the required oil system prep? Additionally, priming was only mandated after failures occurred, which would largely have been the case first on older vehicles. The internet amplifies everything bad and failure threads are everywhere with ANOTHER 2011!!!! copied. A long time ago I regularly performed Blackstone analysis. I started again and told them exactly what material was in the rod bearings. So far there have been no signs of problems with my 2011, including the connecting rod bearings. Honestly, I'm probably more concerned about fuel, coolant and shear than bearing material, but of course if metals show up I need to know. Coolant and oil can mix in my OFH design, injector failures and short COVID trips can cause severe fuel dilution, etc...
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| lilbitch (506hp) | I'll just throw it out there, but it looks like an auto loan dealer did it for an under-dash GPS tracker. However, it's a mystery to me why they would run all the way there.
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| macie1 (280hp) | Hello, I am a BMW owner and live in Korea. I would like to know the identity of some cables in my car. I want to know the identity of the red cable and wiring from the 5th picture. Does anyone know the role of this wiring? If anyone needs a detailed photo I can provide it.
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| 100875 (219hp) | There are no OEM ground wires on the strut bridge, so it is an aftermarket item. No one here can tell you exactly what that is because we can't see the car in person.
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| papako (421hp) | Not a factory installed item... OP, are you willing to cut the two zip ties and take a photo? Apparently someone routed the power from the back of the car to the front...but it's too hard to determine what's wrapped up and zip-tied...It and power to...(?)...the black one The pipe looks like a rigged vacuum line...but it's really too hard to tell....
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| mama14 (880hp) | Of course I know it comes with an aftermarket. I just wanted to know the exact purpose of the wiring.
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| fuck16 (720hp) | Quote: Originally written by Unspec. There is no OEM cable grounded to the strut bridge, so it is an aftermarket kit. No one here can tell you exactly what that is because we can't see the car in person. I just wanted to know the exact purpose of the wiring.
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| mobil (814hp) | Quote: Originally written by M_Bimmer. Not a factory installed item. OP, are you willing to cut the two zip ties and take a photo? Apparently someone routed the power from the back of the car to the front...but it's too hard to determine what's wrapped up and zip-tied...It and power to...(?)...the black one The pipe looks like a tampered vacuum line... but it's really too hard to tell... My car has a variable exhaust system. Is this system related to the wiring? My variable exhaust system opens and closes the vacuum.
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| pumas10 (687hp) | Nobody will know what that is. All we can determine is that there is a ground wire attached to your strut tower. I would recommend tracing the wire to see what it connects to on the other end. It should be some kind of module. Take a photo of this module and possibly include the module model number. We can help you find out.
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| Warcraft3 (865hp) | Quote: Originally written by Hoa. Nobody will know what that is. All we can determine is that there is a ground wire attached to your strut tower. I would recommend tracing the wire to see what it connects to on the other end. It should be some kind of module. Take a photo of this module and possibly include the module model number. We can help you find out. Copy that. I'll try to find the module.
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| 4password (667hp) | I'll just throw it out there, but it looks like an auto loan dealer did it for an under-dash GPS tracker. However, it's a mystery to me why they would run all the way there.
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| qwertyuiopasdfghjkl (803hp) | I have a 2012 535i and I noticed something strange. When I leave the house in the morning to go to work, the heater only seems to blow hot air when it is set to the highest temperature (84*) in automatic mode. Once the car is warm and the air comes out hot and I even reduce the value to 83*, cool air starts coming out of the vents instead of warm air. We also have a 2015 X5 and the heater works as intended. The air temperature will be adjusted as desired when you turn the temperature knob. Has anyone else experienced this???
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| charles6 (399hp) | Does your car have one (or more) of these blue/red dials on the front air conditioning vents? If this is the case, you must leave them in the middle of their movement, otherwise the system will cause the air coming out of these vents to be warmer or cooler (depending on the setting) than the automatically set temperature. The idea was to blow cool air into your face while heating the cabin, but that was always a bit confusing. Just a thought. If that's not the case, it could be a temperature sensor, as the system would likely ignore the temperature sensor reading if it was set to maximum heat. If the sensor shows a high value, a setting below the maximum value can cause it to switch to cooling because it assumes that the car is already very warm. I have also seen external temperature sensors cause the same problem (check the outside temperature reading on the dashboard to easily diagnose this problem).).
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| sports123 (294hp) | Quote: Originally written by philipm785 Does your car have one (or more) of those blue/red dials on the front air conditioning vents? If this is the case, you must leave them in the middle of their movement, otherwise the system will cause the air coming out of these vents to be warmer or cooler (depending on the setting) than the automatically set temperature. The idea was to blow cool air into your face while heating the cabin, but that was always a bit confusing. Just a thought. If that's not the case, it could be a temperature sensor, as the system would likely ignore the temperature sensor reading if it was set to maximum heat. If the sensor shows a high value, a setting below the maximum value can cause it to switch to cooling because it assumes that the car is already very warm. I have also seen external temperature sensors causing the same problem (check the outside temperature reading on the dashboard to easily diagnose this problem). Thanks, I'll try it.
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| mouse11 (110hp) | I have a 2012 535i and I noticed something strange. When I leave the house in the morning to go to work, the heater only seems to blow hot air when it is set to the highest temperature (84*) in automatic mode. Once the car is warm and the air comes out hot and I even reduce the value to 83*, cool air starts coming out of the vents instead of warm air. We also have a 2015 X5 and the heater works as intended. The air temperature will be adjusted as desired when you turn the temperature knob. Has anyone else experienced this???
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| ozzy666 (901hp) | Does your car have one (or more) of these blue/red dials on the front air conditioning vents? If this is the case, you must leave them in the middle of their movement, otherwise the system will cause the air coming out of these vents to be warmer or cooler (depending on the setting) than the automatically set temperature. The idea was to blow cool air into your face while heating the cabin, but that was always a bit confusing. Just a thought. If that's not the case, it could be a temperature sensor, as the system would likely ignore the temperature sensor reading if it was set to maximum heat. If the sensor is showing a high reading, any setting below the maximum value can cause it to switch to cooling because it assumes the car is already very warm. I have also seen external temperature sensors cause the same problem (check the outside temperature reading on the dashboard to easily diagnose this problem).).
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| victoria14 (141hp) | Quote: Originally written by philipm785 Does your car have one (or more) of those blue/red dials on the front air conditioning vents? If this is the case, you must leave them in the middle of their movement, otherwise the system will cause the air coming out of these vents to be warmer or cooler (depending on the setting) than the automatically set temperature. The idea was to blow cool air into your face while heating the cabin, but that was always a bit confusing. Just a thought. If that's not the case, it could be a temperature sensor, as the system would likely ignore the temperature sensor reading if it was set to maximum heat. If the sensor shows a high value, a setting below the maximum value can cause it to switch to cooling because it assumes that the car is already very warm. I have also seen external temperature sensors causing the same problem (check the outside temperature reading on the dashboard to easily diagnose this problem). Thanks, I'll try it.
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| nickel1 (702hp) | Hello guys, I would like to change my standard coil springs to 704m coil springs. I found a seller that has 520D M Sport springs. Will these fit my 535i? Is there a difference between diesel and gasoline models??
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| 180190 (715hp) | No differences between the diesel and petrol springs, but you need one from a 535/530d. I believe the smaller motor cars have a different spring rate.
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| booboo15 (762hp) | Quote: Originally written by Unspec. No differences between the diesel and petrol springs, but you need one from a 535/530d. I believe the smaller motor cars have a different spring rate. All right, thank you
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| qwerty45 (939hp) | Hello guys, I would like to change my standard coil springs to 704m coil springs. I found a seller that has 520D M Sport springs. Will these fit my 535i? Is there a difference between diesel and gasoline models??
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| Nicky P (975hp) | No differences between the diesel and petrol springs, but you need one from a 535/530d. I believe the smaller motor cars have a different spring rate.
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| majaste (808hp) | Quote: Originally written by Unspec. No differences between the diesel and petrol springs, but you need one from a 535/530d. I believe the smaller motor cars have a different spring rate. All right, thank you
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| 230101 (775hp) | Strange, after coding VLD with Bimmer code I just noticed my headlights going up and down on startup like always. They don't move left or right when starting. The only thing I didn't change is the VO for it.
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| 26071993 (610hp) | You will also need to wait 90 seconds before adjusting the LED headlights, as adjusting them before starting a diagnostic setup will only return them to their original position after a sleep cycle. You should turn on the ignition but not start the car, wait 90 seconds and then adjust the headlights.
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| record1 (462hp) | Quote: Originally written by Egoy936. Strange, after coding VLD with Bimmer code I just noticed my headlights going up and down on startup like always. They don't move left or right when starting. The only thing I didn't change is the VO for it. The downward/upward movement (only) at start is just an indication that the reference travel for the adaptive headlights has been tested. During the reference run of the VLD, the headlight on the driver's side is shifted 12° to the left, as is the downward/upward movement. Do you see how the driver's side headlight rotates 12° to the right when idling and driving when you put the car in reverse, and then swings back 12° to the left when the drive is put back into gear? If no, VLD is still decoding (not working). This is shown in the second video I posted.
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| 210894 (148hp) | Quote: Originally posted by Qsilver7 When idling and driving, see the driver's side headlight rotate 12° to the right when you put the car in reverse, and then swing back 12° to the left when you put the drive back in gear ? If no, VLD is still decoding (not working). This is shown in the second video I posted. Can you please post the settings you changed for VLD? Also, I Bimmer coded the anti-glare headlights on my F10 and they work.
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| omolade (501hp) | Quote: Originally posted by Egoy936 Can you please post the settings you changed for VLD? Also, I Bimmercoded the anti-glare headlights on my F10 and they work. The following two LeMaster parameters I used to encode VLD... it only worked on my 2014 f15 X5 and the encoding parameters were found in the BDC (Body Domain Controller) module. It didn't work on my 2013 f06 650ix GC where the exterior lighting is controlled by the FRM (footwell module).):
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| god4life (817hp) | Hmm, that's exactly what I coded. The only thing I didn't change was my VO
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