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| iceman69 (342hp) | I'm rebadging my 2016 LCI F11 535d. Can someone please tell me the exact location of the model emblem on the trunk? Is it somewhere in TIS? Secondly, could someone please give me some precise measurements of the position of his model emblem?
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| fldjrfn (443hp) | Anyone?
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| panico (853hp) | You can always google an image and just look at it. I doubt anyone would really care if it was off by a few millimeters here and there. In any case, I found an image here, hopefully it will work for your purposes. I know it's a 530d but I couldn't find a close up of a 535d trunk. Good luck!
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| coolhandshin (632hp) | I'm rebadging my 2016 LCI F11 535d. Can someone please tell me the exact location of the model emblem on the trunk? Is it somewhere in TIS? Secondly, could someone please give me some precise measurements of the position of his model emblem?
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| dudedude1 (828hp) | Anyone?
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| 225566 (218hp) | You can always google an image and just look at it. I doubt anyone would really care if it was off by a few millimeters here and there. In any case, I found an image here, hopefully it will work for your purposes. I know it's a 530d but I couldn't find a close up of a 535d trunk. Good luck!
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| 444888 (617hp) | Hi guys, I believe a recent service disconnected the battery because the airbag needed to be removed. I've since noticed that the sunroof doesn't open and close with a click, nor does the sun visor. I know there is a way to reset this so I wanted to know how to do this for my 2012 F10 528i. Thanks guys!
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| batman89 (28hp) | Can be done automatically in ISTA if you have it, but here are the instructions to do it manually.
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| filippo (519hp) | Likewise, the above instructions should also be included in your user manual. If you don't want to pull out the physical book, you can go to iDrive's built-in user guide, which also has a handy search function. Enter SUNROOF and look for the reset procedure.
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| longdong (454hp) | Hi guys, I believe a recent service disconnected the battery because the airbag needed to be removed. I've since noticed that the sunroof doesn't open and close with a click, nor does the sun visor. I know there is a way to reset this so I wanted to know how to do this for my 2012 F10 528i. Thanks guys!
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| bigdawg (864hp) | Can be done automatically in ISTA if you have it, but here are the instructions to do it manually.
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| Alex315 (319hp) | Likewise, the above instructions should also be included in your user manual. If you don't want to pull out the physical book, you can go to iDrive's built-in user guide, which also has a handy search function. Enter SUNROOF and look for the reset procedure.
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| PATRICK (41hp) | Question, I have a 535. Can I install the upper wishbone from an M5, M6 without any problems? Thank you for any help.
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| 131421 (397hp) | Question: Why do you want to do this???
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| lover1234 (565hp) | Quote: Originally posted by Blue Angel Question: Why do you want to do this? I need to replace mine and a friend has it for an M5 that he is giving me.
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| s00000 (382hp) | Ah ok. If no one comes forward, the only way to find out is to install one and then check the fall. Fortunately, the installation isn't too difficult. On the E90 it was possible to use the M3 lower wishbones. I'm not an F10 expert, but I haven't seen any threads about upgrading to M5 suspension parts (other than sway bars).).
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| marybeth1 (466hp) | Quote: Originally posted by Blue Angel Ah, ok. If no one comes forward, the only way to find out is to install one and then check the fall. Fortunately, the installation isn't too difficult. On the E90 it was possible to use the M3 lower wishbones. I'm not an F10 expert, but I haven't seen any threads about upgrading to M5 suspension parts (other than sway bars). Ty, thanks for the help!
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| 02051985 (382hp) | No problem! FYI: If you feel the need to add negative camber to the front of your F10, -0.5 degree upper control arms are available. I put Delphi (I think) -0.5 tops on my car to fit wide tires under the fenders and give the front end a little more bite.
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| 271980 (944hp) | Quote: Originally posted by Blue Angel, no problem! FYI: If you feel the need to add negative camber to the front of your F10, -0.5 degree upper control arms are available. I put Delphi (I think) -0.5 tops on my car to fit wide tires under the fenders and give the front end a little more bite. 👍,🏽,🙏,🙏,
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| bbal (288hp) | Question, I have a 535. Can I install the upper wishbone from an M5, M6 without any problems? Thank you for any help.
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| 141186 (743hp) | Question: Why do you want to do this???
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| tigerlily1 (499hp) | Quote: Originally posted by Blue Angel Question: Why do you want to do this? I need to replace mine and a friend has it for an M5 that he is giving me.
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| 07041995 (488hp) | Ah ok. If no one comes forward, the only way to find out is to install one and then check the fall. Fortunately, the installation isn't too difficult. On the E90 it was possible to use the M3 lower wishbones. I'm not an F10 expert, but I haven't seen any threads about upgrading to M5 suspension parts (other than sway bars).).
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| 26121996 (945hp) | Quote: Originally posted by Blue Angel Ah, ok. If no one comes forward, the only way to find out is to install one and then check the fall. Fortunately, the installation isn't too difficult. On the E90 it was possible to use the M3 lower wishbones. I'm not an F10 expert, but I haven't seen any threads about upgrading to M5 suspension parts (other than sway bars). Ty, thanks for the help!
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| noah06 (164hp) | No problem! FYI: If you feel the need to add negative camber to the front of your F10, -0.5 degree upper control arms are available. I put Delphi (I think) -0.5 tops on my car to fit wide tires under the fenders and give the front end a little more bite.
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| ani (187hp) | Quote: Originally posted by Blue Angel, no problem! FYI: If you feel the need to add negative camber to the front of your F10, -0.5 degree upper control arms are available. I put Delphi (I think) -0.5 tops on my car to fit wide tires under the fenders and give the front end a little more bite. 👍,🏽,🙏,🙏,
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| hehehe123 (219hp) | I live in SC and don't need a front panel. I'm buying an F10 550i M Sport with the black bracket installed or holes drilled in the front bumper. Does anyone know where I can find matching colored plugs to fill the holes? The color is mineral gray metallic. TIA!
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| babydaddy1 (555hp) | I was going to do the same thing until I removed the bracket and realized there were four holes. So I just left the mount standing. If I ever respray the bumper because of rock chips, I will fill the holes.
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| shifty1 (728hp) | https://**********s.com/claimed-bumperplugs-for-all-bmws-1/
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| 834002 (1hp) | Quote: Originally posted by zvery777,28501652 https://*********s.com/claimed-bumperplugs-for-all-bmws-1/ ***********s. com
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| kartina (366hp) | Quote: Originally posted by zvery777 https://***********s.com/painted-bumperplugs-for-all-bmws-1/ blocked website. Do you have another one???
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| orquidea (368hp) | Quote: Originally posted by SummerallGuard04,28502454 Quote: Originally posted by zvery777,28501652 https://***********s.com/painted-bumperplugs-for-all-bmws-1/ blocked website. Do you have another one? Mod bargains
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| rezo_2010 (154hp) | Quote: Originally posted by zvery777 Mod Bargains just found Mod Bargains before I saw your message. Thanks!
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| DRD (850hp) | Quote: Originally posted by TuckerE36 I was going to do the same thing until I removed the bracket and realized there were four holes...so I just left the bracket lol if I ever respray the bumper for rock chips I will fill holes. LOL, this is my BIGGEST favorite. Totally get it, but... I think I have 4 holes too and will just go ahead and get 4 plugs.
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| nigger13 (426hp) | I live in SC and don't need a front panel. I'm buying an F10 550i M Sport with the black bracket installed or holes drilled in the front bumper. Does anyone know where I can find matching colored plugs to fill the holes? The color is mineral gray metallic. TIA!
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| 121093 (896hp) | I was going to do the same thing until I removed the bracket and realized there were four holes. So I just left the mount standing. If I ever respray the bumper because of rock chips, I will fill the holes.
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| 05031988 (738hp) | https://**********s.com/claimed-bumperplugs-for-all-bmws-1/
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| paulie1 (868hp) | Quote: Originally posted by zvery777,28501652 https://*********s.com/claimed-bumperplugs-for-all-bmws-1/ ***********s. com
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| 1941-1945 (946hp) | Quote: Originally posted by zvery777 https://***********s.com/painted-bumperplugs-for-all-bmws-1/ blocked website. Do you have another one???
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| shelter (60hp) | Quote: Originally posted by SummerallGuard04,28502454 Quote: Originally posted by zvery777,28501652 https://***********s.com/painted-bumperplugs-for-all-bmws-1/ blocked website. Do you have another one? Mod bargains
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| frankie5 (907hp) | Quote: Originally posted by zvery777 Mod Bargains just found Mod Bargains before I saw your message. Thanks!
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| mascha (79hp) | Quote: Originally posted by TuckerE36 I was going to do the same thing until I removed the bracket and realized there were four holes...so I just left the bracket lol if I ever respray the bumper for rock chips I will fill holes. LOL, this is my BIGGEST favorite. Totally get it, but... I think I have 4 holes too and will just go ahead and get 4 plugs.
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| 123321v (938hp) | I'm looking for a used BMW and want some performance. I'm well aware that the N63 has some issues, but are there any serious peculiarities? Would it be worth buying one and having a few grand left over for all the hassles since they are cheap? They also drive well and are sporty?
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| solotime (384hp) | Quote: Originally posted by ghost_m2c I'm looking for a used BMW and want some performance. I'm well aware that the N63 has some issues, but are there any serious peculiarities? Would it be worth buying one and having a few grand left over for all the hassles since they are cheap? Do they also drive well and are they sporty? No, because you'd think a few grand would be enough to cover unexpected repairs on an N63. They drive well, not as sporty as the E39 and E60.
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| iloveashle (560hp) | Pointless comment since I don't think OP asked for an M5 or a 20 year old base model. I got my '15 550i with 46,000 miles for 25,000 miles from Carmax. If you install a Botmod3 level 1 you will be more than satisfied with the price/performance ratio (n63tu engine...). Do your research, check the mileage of the vehicle you want to buy and get it...
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| nighthawk (211hp) | Quote: Originally posted by ghost_m2c I'm looking for a used BMW and want some performance. I'm well aware that the N63 has some issues, but are there any serious peculiarities? Would it be worth buying one and having a few grand left over for all the hassles since they are cheap? Do they also drive well and are they sporty? They probably offer the most performance for the money, but that comes with its problems. Personally, I haven't had one yet, but luckily I got one with just a few kilometers. I would get at least a 2014 since it has the TU update. With a simple downpipe and tune this car gains some insane benefits. As far as ride quality goes, it feels like a boat and is not connected to the road. I just fixed this with some KW coilovers and it feels like a real car
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| babyboy07 (787hp) | Let's start backwards. Are you sporty? No. Can they be made sportier with aftermarket parts? Not really. No matter what suspension setup you choose, it will never drive like an M5 or a smaller, sportier car. It was originally designed for comfort, and that's just the reality. I have a KW V3 and it definitely has better handling, but not to the point where you can turn it on on a dime. As for the performance, there's no denying that it's there and it's a pleasure to drive. I love that I have all that ready and everyone else on the road just assumes you're just another car without all that power behind you. As far as maintenance and repairs go, you either get an n63tu (2014+) or don't bother with it. Simply put. You don't have to have the headache or fear of not knowing what has already been repaired on the engine and/or when it will break and take out your life. Even though the n63tu is far more reliable, you will definitely have to deal with a few serious problems at some point (e.g. HPFP, upper oil pan leak, turbo oil line leak). They will show up at some point (around 50,000 – 70,000 mile range). That being said, this is by far the longest car I've ever kept and the first one I don't want to give up. There is simply nothing that would remotely entice me (or justify) trading for it (not even the G30). I drive it every day with a big smile on my face. My plan is to get a new weekend fun car and keep the 550i as my daily driver until it dies.
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| granite1 (471hp) | I just got a low mileage 15 and am really happy with it. This car is extremely comfortable and has the power you need when you need it. But I agree with the above, I can't imagine this car ever behaving like an E39 and it would probably just end up ruining the chassis. I'm planning on installing Dinan springs to reduce the buoyancy a bit, but anything else probably isn't worth it. Plus, the lack of hydraulic steering is really hard to overcome.
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| spillo (766hp) | Quote: Originally written by 3002 tii Just got a low mileage 15 and am really happy with it. This car is extremely comfortable and has the power you need. But I agree with the above, I can't imagine this car ever behaving like an E39 and it would probably just end up ruining the chassis. I'm planning on installing Dinan springs to reduce the buoyancy a bit, but anything else probably isn't worth it. Plus, the lack of hydraulic steering is really hard to overcome. If you get an Xdrive, you get hydraulic steering but lose the option of a factory sports suspension. Not that it matters that much, since even a sport suspension doesn't fix the boat's behavior. I've had my 15 550i RWD for 2 years and love it. Fantastic daily cruiser with power on demand, with ACC and TJA options to reduce the stress of heavy traffic.
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| jack04 (303hp) | The F10 handles well if you modify the suspension, but "good" is a relative term since it's a car weighing more than 2000kg (and even more so with XDrive and a V8). My 535d It's entertaining, but not a sports car. The V8 has a bit more weight up front, so I'm not sure how much that changes the equation.
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| cancer22 (46hp) | One of the main points that people like to bring up is the rod bearings. I just had them done on my 2016 m5 and the entire job only cost 3k. For peace of mind, I would recommend you only have it done once you get the car. Additionally, the upper and lower oil pan gaskets would need to be replaced at the same time, eliminating several potential leaks.
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| 1miguel (880hp) | Quote: Originally posted by OnlyGerman No, because you think a few grand is enough to cover unexpected repairs on an N63. They drive well, not as sporty as the E39 and E60. I thought I remembered you don't have a 550i?
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| dima1994 (260hp) | As mentioned above, choose n63tu and an extended warranty. A few upgrades and settings, you will be satisfied
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| beacon (997hp) | New to the club, but I've only recently pulled the trigger. It depends on what you want from a car. Came from an E60 545 N62 which people said was a terrible engine but served me well. From 33,000 to 185,000 years ago there were some repairs that were unavoidable, valve stem seals, clogged secondary air ports, to name a few, but most cars have some sort of weak point. Do your research for a well maintained car and if I had to take a chance based on the updates made to the engine definitely 2014 or better. Even if you can save some money on labor and do some repairs yourself, you'll get by better than most who don't. Some good points raised above.
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| naruto20 (609hp) | What was last year for the 6-speed manual transmission? Search autotrader.com for 2014-16 550i and there are no manuals available nationwide. I know the N55 F10 manual was inserted 2014.
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| colegio (931hp) | Quote: Originally written by Flying Badger. What was last year for the 6-speed manual transmission? Search autotrader.com for 2014-16 550i and there are no manuals available nationwide. I know the N55 F10 manual was discontinued in 2014. I'm pretty sure it's no longer available ‘14.
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| chapulin (145hp) | LCI dropped the 6-speed option
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| snake2 (628hp) | Have a 2013 550i with no problems but just fix anything that needs fixing asap. The only problem I had was an oil leak, so I replaced all the seals. The engine has been solid since then and I drive hard. These engines mainly suffer from injectors and oil leaks Honestly
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| priya1 (815hp) | You can be sporty, and here's how to replace the upper control arms with tuner monoball control arms and replace the lower control arms with polyurethane bushings. - Replace the rear stabilizer bar with a larger diameter. - Replace the front sway bar with a larger diameter and add the correct length sway bar links. - Replace the shock absorbers with adjustable shock absorbers or high quality coilovers. - If not, replace the coilovers with Eibach or Dinan Street springs (not less than 1). And the biggest upgrade is your tires. Pilots: If you want to make the engine sporty, you can achieve 450 hp with an OTS tune without other modifications and fill the engine mounts with window silicone with minimal to no NVH
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| brisingr (364hp) | Quote: Originally posted by bmw4er I have a 2013 550i with no problems yet, just fix anything that needs fixing as quickly as possible. The only problem I had was an oil leak, so I replaced all the seals. The engine has been solid since then and I drive hard, these engines suffer from fuel injectors and oil leaks for the most part, honestly same here, 2013 550i 75k, no major issues. Regular maintenance only. I drive my car hard too
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| lemonhead1 (928hp) | I bought a '16 550i Msport today that I've never seen before. 2 previous owners, well cared for and serviced with only 16,xxx miles. Had an inspection carried out by a BMW specialist before purchase and the inspection report came back sparkling clean. FWIW, in this unprecedented car market, I paid $41,500 for it. I know what else is available and I feel it was a fair price given the condition of the car. I've been following this forum so closely over the last few weeks before I finally made the decision to buy an F10. I work from home and don't plan on driving this car much and am deciding against purchasing an extended warranty (at this point). Right now I'm saving money for some of the major repairs in the future.
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| emily07 (365hp) | ^ Or big ticket mods.
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| xandra (632hp) | Quote: Originally posted by Blue Angel ^ Or Big Ticket Mods. Haha...no. Not here. I plan to keep it in stock.
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| salinas1 (74hp) | I'm looking for a used BMW and want some performance. I'm well aware that the N63 has some issues, but are there any serious peculiarities? Would it be worth buying one and having a few grand left over for all the hassles since they are cheap? They also drive well and are sporty?
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| walton1 (758hp) | Quote: Originally posted by ghost_m2c I'm looking for a used BMW and want some performance. I'm well aware that the N63 has some issues, but are there any serious peculiarities? Would it be worth buying one and having a few grand left over for all the hassles since they are cheap? Do they also drive well and are they sporty? No, because you'd think a few grand would be enough to cover unexpected repairs on an N63. They drive well, not as sporty as the E39 and E60.
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| cakes (284hp) | Pointless comment since I don't think OP asked for an M5 or a 20 year old base model. I got my '15 550i with 46,000 miles for 25,000 miles from Carmax. If you install a Botmod3 level 1 you will be more than satisfied with the price/performance ratio (n63tu engine...). Do your research, check the mileage of the vehicle you want to buy and get it...
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| 1dontknow (956hp) | Quote: Originally posted by ghost_m2c I'm looking for a used BMW and want some performance. I'm well aware that the N63 has some issues, but are there any serious peculiarities? Would it be worth buying one and having a few grand left over for all the hassles since they are cheap? Do they also drive well and are they sporty? They probably offer the most performance for the money, but that comes with its problems. Personally, I haven't had one yet, but luckily I got one with just a few kilometers. I would get at least a 2014 since it has the TU update. With a simple downpipe and tune this car gains some insane benefits. As far as ride quality goes, it feels like a boat and is not connected to the road. I just fixed this with some KW coilovers and it feels like a real car
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| 230583 (764hp) | Let's start backwards. Are you sporty? No. Can they be made sportier with aftermarket parts? Not really. No matter what suspension setup you choose, it will never drive like an M5 or a smaller, sportier car. It was originally designed for comfort, and that's just the reality. I have a KW V3 and it definitely has better handling, but not to the point where you can turn it on on a dime. As for the performance, there's no denying that it's there and it's a pleasure to drive. I love that I have all that ready and everyone else on the road just assumes you're just another car without all that power behind you. As far as maintenance and repairs go, you either get an n63tu (2014+) or don't bother with it. Simply put. You don't have to have the headache or fear of not knowing what has already been repaired on the engine and/or when it will break and take out your life. Even though the n63tu is far more reliable, you will definitely have to deal with a few serious problems at some point (e.g. HPFP, upper oil pan leak, turbo oil line leak). They will show up at some point (around 50,000 – 70,000 mile range). That being said, this is by far the longest car I've ever kept and the first one I don't want to give up. There is simply nothing that would remotely entice me (or justify) trading for it (not even the G30). I drive it every day with a big smile on my face. My plan is to get a new weekend fun car and keep the 550i as my daily driver until it dies.
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| 2607 (412hp) | I just got a low mileage 15 and am really happy with it. This car is extremely comfortable and has the power you need when you need it. But I agree with the above, I can't imagine this car ever behaving like an E39 and it would probably just end up ruining the chassis. I'm planning on installing Dinan springs to reduce the buoyancy a bit, but anything else probably isn't worth it. Plus, the lack of hydraulic steering is really hard to overcome.
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| katy12 (21hp) | Quote: Originally written by 3002 tii Just got a low mileage 15 and am really happy with it. This car is extremely comfortable and has the power you need. But I agree with the above, I can't imagine this car ever behaving like an E39 and it would probably just end up ruining the chassis. I'm planning on installing Dinan springs to reduce the buoyancy a bit, but anything else probably isn't worth it. Plus, the lack of hydraulic steering is really hard to overcome. If you get an Xdrive, you get hydraulic steering but lose the option of a factory sports suspension. Not that it matters that much, since even a sport suspension doesn't fix the boat's behavior. I've had my 15 550i RWD for 2 years and love it. Fantastic daily cruiser with power on demand, with ACC and TJA options to reduce the stress of heavy traffic.
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| qqqqqqqqqqqq (959hp) | The F10 handles well if you modify the suspension, but "good" is a relative term since it's a car weighing more than 2000kg (and even more so with XDrive and a V8). My 535d It's entertaining, but not a sports car. The V8 has a bit more weight up front, so I'm not sure how much that changes the equation.
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| silversurfer (568hp) | One of the main points that people like to bring up is the rod bearings. I just had them done on my 2016 m5 and the entire job only cost 3k. For peace of mind, I would recommend you only have it done once you get the car. Additionally, the upper and lower oil pan gaskets would need to be replaced at the same time, eliminating several potential leaks.
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| 09091088 (889hp) | Quote: Originally posted by OnlyGerman No, because you think a few grand is enough to cover unexpected repairs on an N63. They drive well, not as sporty as the E39 and E60. I thought I remembered you don't have a 550i?
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| 06091991 (419hp) | As mentioned above, choose n63tu and an extended warranty. A few upgrades and settings, you will be satisfied
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| gotcha! (806hp) | New to the club, but I've only recently pulled the trigger. It depends on what you want from a car. Came from an E60 545 N62 which people said was a terrible engine but served me well. From 33,000 to 185,000 years ago there were some repairs that were unavoidable, valve stem seals, clogged secondary air ports, to name a few, but most cars have some sort of weak point. Do your research for a well maintained car and if I had to take a chance based on the updates made to the engine definitely 2014 or better. Even if you can save some money on labor and do some repairs yourself, you'll get by better than most who don't. Some good points raised above.
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| lorena12 (571hp) | What was last year for the 6-speed manual transmission? Search autotrader.com for 2014-16 550i and there are no manuals available nationwide. I know the N55 F10 manual was inserted 2014.
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| ihateyou4 (10hp) | Quote: Originally written by Flying Badger. What was last year for the 6-speed manual transmission? Search autotrader.com for 2014-16 550i and there are no manuals available nationwide. I know the N55 F10 manual was discontinued in 2014. I'm pretty sure it's no longer available ‘14.
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| 080907 (424hp) | LCI dropped the 6-speed option
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| 230983 (891hp) | Have a 2013 550i with no problems but just fix anything that needs fixing asap. The only problem I had was an oil leak, so I replaced all the seals. The engine has been solid since then and I drive hard. These engines mainly suffer from injectors and oil leaks Honestly
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| angels13 (795hp) | You can be sporty, and here's how to replace the upper control arms with tuner monoball control arms and replace the lower control arms with polyurethane bushings. - Replace the rear stabilizer bar with a larger diameter. - Replace the front sway bar with a larger diameter and add the correct length sway bar links. - Replace the shock absorbers with adjustable shock absorbers or high quality coilovers. - If not, replace the coilovers with Eibach or Dinan Street springs (not less than 1). And the biggest upgrade is your tires. Pilots: If you want to make the engine sporty, you can achieve 450 hp with an OTS tune without other modifications and fill the engine mounts with window silicone with minimal to no NVH
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| angel001 (256hp) | Quote: Originally posted by bmw4er I have a 2013 550i with no problems yet, just fix anything that needs fixing as quickly as possible. The only problem I had was an oil leak, so I replaced all the seals. The engine has been solid since then and I drive hard, these engines suffer from fuel injectors and oil leaks for the most part, honestly same here, 2013 550i 75k, no major issues. Regular maintenance only. I drive my car hard too
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| dimension1 (515hp) | Can someone tell me what the current software version is for a 2011 US vehicle? The BMW page says UPD01006. Is that right? It hasn't been updated since iOS 6? No wonder I have so many problems!!!!
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| nkadisha (428hp) | I bought a '16 550i Msport today that I've never seen before. 2 previous owners, well cared for and serviced with only 16,xxx miles. Had an inspection carried out by a BMW specialist before purchase and the inspection report came back sparkling clean. FWIW, in this unprecedented car market, I paid $41,500 for it. I know what else is available and I feel it was a fair price given the condition of the car. I've been following this forum so closely over the last few weeks before I finally made the decision to buy an F10. I work from home and don't plan on driving this car much and am deciding against purchasing an extended warranty (at this point). Right now I'm saving money for some of the major repairs in the future.
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| bambus (792hp) | Quote: Originally posted by SonicEndeavor Here it is. Let me know when you have downloaded it and I will delete the file. https://dl.dropboxusercontent.com/u/...7/UPD05014.bin Hello SonicEndevaour, can you please share the file again? It looks like the BMW website has removed the download link, as when I enter my VIN number 525d F10, there is no update available.
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| 150993 (657hp) | ^ Or big ticket mods.
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| 04081980 (953hp) | Quote: Originally written by [email protected] Hello SonicEndevaour, can you please share the file again? It looks like the BMW website has removed the download link because when I enter my VIN number for a 525d F10 it tells me there is no update available. This is a thread from 6 years ago... It's also entirely possible that your car doesn't support USB updates.
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| diaper (826hp) | Quote: Originally posted by Blue Angel ^ Or Big Ticket Mods. Haha...no. Not here. I plan to keep it in stock.
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| 141183 (690hp) | Quote: Originally written by [email protected] Hello SonicEndevaour, can you please share the file again? It looks like the BMW website has removed the download link because when I enter my VIN number for a 525d F10 it tells me there is no update available. This is a 7 year old update and there have been several updates since then. I trust the BMW Update website to let you know if updates apply to your car. Here is the file if you want to try it out. https://www.dropbox.com/s/kl2bkjg4x8...05014.bin?dl=0
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| e-eremeeva1976 (249hp) | Quote: Originally written by [email protected] Hello SonicEndevaour, can you please share the file again? It looks like the BMW website has removed the download link because when I enter my VIN number for a 525d F10 it tells me there is no update available. Hello, the same thing happened to me when I was checking for updates via https://www.bmw.com/en/footer/software-updates.html. I'm just wondering why it says "Congratulations, your BMW's software" is up to date. No action is required. As far as I know, my car hasn't been updated or anything like that in a while. Thanks
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| avenue (170hp) | Hello everyone! I'm something of a newbie to the BMW world, I just got a 2011 F10 520d and am trying to get my head around it all. When I enter my VIN number on the BMW website for a software update, I get this message: An error has occurred. Please try again later. Does anyone have any idea what it means? Is my car too old for an update? What should I do???
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| spider21 (987hp) | The latest update for my 2013 F10 535 is UPD05021.bin, released about 7 years ago. This is for idrive/phone/media. Map updates are released two to three times a year and you can receive them from BMW or other providers for a fee or similar. My last update was mid-2021. No, it's not like Tesla where you get regular free updates with new features and games. An update even brought a few percent more horsepower.
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| GOLFNUTZ (280hp) | Can someone tell me what the current software version is for a 2011 US vehicle? The BMW page says UPD01006. Is that right? It hasn't been updated since iOS 6? No wonder I have so many problems!!!!
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| 09081982 (614hp) | Quote: Originally posted by SonicEndeavor Here it is. Let me know when you have downloaded it and I will delete the file. https://dl.dropboxusercontent.com/u/...7/UPD05014.bin Hello SonicEndevaour, can you please share the file again? It looks like the BMW website has removed the download link, as when I enter my VIN number 525d F10, there is no update available.
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| dsj (847hp) | Quote: Originally written by [email protected] Hello SonicEndevaour, can you please share the file again? It looks like the BMW website has removed the download link because when I enter my VIN number for a 525d F10 it tells me there is no update available. This is a thread from 6 years ago... It's also entirely possible that your car doesn't support USB updates.
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| birthvillage (984hp) | Quote: Originally written by [email protected] Hello SonicEndevaour, can you please share the file again? It looks like the BMW website has removed the download link because when I enter my VIN number for a 525d F10 it tells me there is no update available. This is a 7 year old update and there have been several updates since then. I trust the BMW Update website to let you know if updates apply to your car. Here is the file if you want to try it out. https://www.dropbox.com/s/kl2bkjg4x8...05014.bin?dl=0
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| minnie2 (290hp) | Quote: Originally written by [email protected] Hello SonicEndevaour, can you please share the file again? It looks like the BMW website has removed the download link because when I enter my VIN number for a 525d F10 it tells me there is no update available. Hello, the same thing happened to me when I was checking for updates via https://www.bmw.com/en/footer/software-updates.html. I'm just wondering why it says "Congratulations, your BMW's software" is up to date. No action is required. As far as I know, my car hasn't been updated or anything like that in a while. Thanks
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| wrong1 (336hp) | Hello everyone! I'm something of a newbie to the BMW world, I just got a 2011 F10 520d and am trying to get my head around it all. When I enter my VIN number on the BMW website for a software update, I get this message: An error has occurred. Please try again later. Does anyone have any idea what it means? Is my car too old for an update? What should I do???
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| aqwzsx123 (549hp) | The latest update for my 2013 F10 535 is UPD05021.bin, released about 7 years ago. This is for idrive/phone/media. Map updates are released two to three times a year and you can receive them from BMW or other providers for a fee or similar. My last update was mid-2021. No, it's not like Tesla where you get regular free updates with new features and games. An update even brought a few percent more horsepower.
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| macbook1 (285hp) | I have a 2011 528i with the stock 328 18x8 wrapped in 245/45/18. I accidentally bought replacement tires in size 245/55/18. It seems like they don't fit. I looked at the front control arm suspension and found that there is almost no space between the tire and the control arm. The control arm sits very close to the back of the tire and curves over the tire. How do people mount 20+ wheels on the F10 platform? Can I mount my 245/55/18? Thanks.
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| 120871 (117hp) | Try this... https://tiresize.com/tyre-size-calculator/ Tire width will not be your problem, tire diameter will be......
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| stefy (490hp) | I know of such online calculations, but they don't help in this situation. http://m5carblog.blogspot.com/2013/02/suspension.html See how the top of part #3 curves downward in the second picture. This part curves noticeably above the tire. I'm just wondering how people fit larger diameter wheels/tires on the F10. Am I missing something simple here??.
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| duh123 (638hp) | Larger diameter wheels do not necessarily mean larger diameter tires: 1. 245/40/R19 (19 wheel) has a tire diameter = 26.3 2. 245/35/R20 (20 wheel) has a tire diameter = 26.3 .. ..and in the case above both have a tire width of 10.4. The M5 F10s have different wheel offsets to accommodate wider tires than a standard F10....not necessarily larger diameter tires... (Larger diameter wheels can be used as long as the tire aspect ratios are maintained - to a degree ). (increased from 19 to 20 while tire diameter remains the same) I'm just answering your question: Quote: Originally posted by AK_5eries How do people mount 20+ wheels on the F10 platform? By the way, your original 245/45/R18 tire has a wheel diameter of 26.7, 0.4 larger than the F10 M5 tire... but the cross section (width) of your tire is only 9.6 compared to the M5 10.4....
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| RichardV (119hp) | Quote: Originally posted by AK_5eries I have a 2011 528i with the stock 328 18x8 wrapped in 245/45/18. I accidentally bought replacement tires in size 245/55/18. It seems like they don't fit. I looked at the front control arm suspension and found that there is almost no space between the tire and the control arm. The control arm sits very close to the back of the tire and curves over the tire. How do people mount 20+ wheels on the F10 platform? Can I mount my 245/55/18? Thanks. Quote: Originally posted by AK_5eries I have a 2011 528i with the stock 328 18x8 wrapped in 245/45/18. I accidentally bought replacement tires in size 245/55/18. It seems like they don't fit. I looked at the front control arm suspension and found that there is almost no space between the tire and the control arm. The control arm sits very close to the back of the tire and curves over the tire. How do people mount 20+ wheels on the F10 platform? Can I mount my 245/55/18? Thanks. It should!!! Not sure
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| 199393 (96hp) | Quote: Originally posted by AK_5eries Just wondering how people fit larger diameter wheels/tires on the F10. Am I missing something simple here? Yes, the terminology is plus size or minus size. For a more detailed description, you can google the term. But as already mentioned: the larger the wheel diameter, the lower the aspect ratio of the tire. This means that the overall rolling diameter remains the same, even if the wheel diameter is larger. You can see an example of changing tire size by viewing the tire pressure table in the owner's manual. 17-wheel uses a 225/55/17 tire, 18-wheel uses a 245/45/18 tire, 19-wheel uses a 245/40/19 tire. 20 wheel uses a 245/35/20 tire
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| melnikova (801hp) | 245/55-18 has a diameter of 28.6. The front steering knuckle is not exposed. The largest diameter you can mount on the standard non-M-F10 is 27.7. I use this diameter (245/45-19 = 27.7) and the front tire diameter has very little clearance.
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| eastwind76 (687hp) | I have a 2011 528i with the stock 328 18x8 wrapped in 245/45/18. I accidentally bought replacement tires in size 245/55/18. It seems like they don't fit. I looked at the front control arm suspension and found that there is almost no space between the tire and the control arm. The control arm sits very close to the back of the tire and curves over the tire. How do people mount 20+ wheels on the F10 platform? Can I mount my 245/55/18? Thanks.
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| erikas (18hp) | Try this... https://tiresize.com/tyre-size-calculator/ Tire width will not be your problem, tire diameter will be......
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| 17021992 (255hp) | I know of such online calculations, but they don't help in this situation. http://m5carblog.blogspot.com/2013/02/suspension.html See how the top of part #3 curves downward in the second picture. This part curves noticeably above the tire. I'm just wondering how people fit larger diameter wheels/tires on the F10. Am I missing something simple here??.
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| corona69 (924hp) | Larger diameter wheels do not necessarily mean larger diameter tires: 1. 245/40/R19 (19 wheel) has a tire diameter = 26.3 2. 245/35/R20 (20 wheel) has a tire diameter = 26.3 .. ..and in the case above both have a tire width of 10.4. The M5 F10s have different wheel offsets to accommodate wider tires than a standard F10....not necessarily larger diameter tires... (Larger diameter wheels can be used as long as the tire aspect ratios are maintained - to a degree ). (increased from 19 to 20 while tire diameter remains the same) I'm just answering your question: Quote: Originally posted by AK_5eries How do people mount 20+ wheels on the F10 platform? By the way, your original 245/45/R18 tire has a wheel diameter of 26.7, 0.4 larger than the F10 M5 tire... but the cross section (width) of your tire is only 9.6 compared to the M5 10.4....
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| ferrari123 (386hp) | Quote: Originally posted by AK_5eries I have a 2011 528i with the stock 328 18x8 wrapped in 245/45/18. I accidentally bought replacement tires in size 245/55/18. It seems like they don't fit. I looked at the front control arm suspension and found that there is almost no space between the tire and the control arm. The control arm sits very close to the back of the tire and curves over the tire. How do people mount 20+ wheels on the F10 platform? Can I mount my 245/55/18? Thanks. Quote: Originally posted by AK_5eries I have a 2011 528i with the stock 328 18x8 wrapped in 245/45/18. I accidentally bought replacement tires in size 245/55/18. It seems like they don't fit. I looked at the front control arm suspension and found that there is almost no space between the tire and the control arm. The control arm sits very close to the back of the tire and curves over the tire. How do people mount 20+ wheels on the F10 platform? Can I mount my 245/55/18? Thanks. It should!!! Not sure
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| letmein69 (771hp) | Quote: Originally posted by AK_5eries Just wondering how people fit larger diameter wheels/tires on the F10. Am I missing something simple here? Yes, the terminology is plus size or minus size. For a more detailed description, you can google the term. But as already mentioned: the larger the wheel diameter, the lower the aspect ratio of the tire. This means that the overall rolling diameter remains the same, even if the wheel diameter is larger. You can see an example of changing tire size by viewing the tire pressure table in the owner's manual. 17-wheel uses a 225/55/17 tire, 18-wheel uses a 245/45/18 tire, 19-wheel uses a 245/40/19 tire. 20 wheel uses a 245/35/20 tire
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| 14theroad (886hp) | 245/55-18 has a diameter of 28.6. The front steering knuckle is not exposed. The largest diameter you can mount on the standard non-M-F10 is 27.7. I use this diameter (245/45-19 = 27.7) and the front tire diameter has very little clearance.
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| 300585 (274hp) | Could have posted in the Chassis subforum, but I thought I'd start here to get more visibility. 2016 550i with Dynamic Handling Package (ZDH), which includes active anti-roll bars and rear-wheel steering. Since I bought the car early last year I have been suffering from speed vibrations on the highway. Took it to the road to have the wheels balanced at several shops with limited success... I was always told it should be fine now. After the second trip to the BMW dealer they said both rear wheels were a little out of round. Instead of paying them $750 each for the two 19" OEM wheels, I decided to replace all the wheels with aftermarket 20" wheels and new tires. This has improved the overall vibration at high speed, but I still feel the same intermittent wobble at the rear end. It appears to be some sort of vibration from behind and is most commonly felt when accelerating gently uphill. It's not like a vibration you would feel at highway speeds (corrected with the new wheels)...it's a lower frequency. Almost feels like something in the rear suspension is loose or miscalibrated...? Although this heavy beast corners well, the problem makes me wish it didn't have a ZDH...but maybe it has nothing to do with it. I'm thinking about taking it to the other BMW dealer we have here in Raleigh to see if they can figure it out. Has anyone else experienced something similar? Any other thoughts?
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| badstuff (201hp) | This shaking also occurs when braking hard from high speeds??
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| 19101983 (233hp) | Quote: Originally written by BrandBMW Does this shaking also occur when braking hard from high speeds? No. Doesn't happen when braking. The brakes in this car feel great. Another question for all of you: Does anyone have the TIS information on active roll stabilization and rear wheel steering? I would like to see how it works and possibly disconnect to resolve the error...
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| adelosreyes (284hp) | I'm asking about hard braking, not because of the brakes, but to understand the reaction when accelerating. When you say vibration and shaking, I'm assuming it's a rotation problem because you mentioned the wheels. The first place I would look is the rear guibo or flex washer or even the rear diff bushing. If it's the rear end sway or rear steering feel that feels like the rear ARS sway bars are moving on their own, then it could be the rear ball joint (lower control arm bearing) or the upper control arm.
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| kayla21 (218hp) | Quote: Originally written by BrandBMW. I'm asking about hard braking, not because of the brakes, but to understand the reaction when accelerating. When you say vibration and shaking, I'm assuming it's a rotation problem because you mentioned the wheels. The first place I would look is the rear guibo or flex washer or even the rear diff bushing. If it's the rear end sway or rear steering feel that feels like the rear ARS sway bars are moving on their own, then it could be the rear ball joint (lower control arm bearing) or the upper control arm. Got it, thank you. The problem becomes more noticeable when accelerating gently on an incline. With a flex disc I think the wobble would be at a higher frequency...more like a vibration. I found this and read through it, but I didn't know the ARS was so complex. I guess I can't unplug it. https://www.europarts.com/blog/demy...l-bar-systems/
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| cool01 (44hp) | Then another question, since you say when accelerating gently. Have you changed and checked the fluid level for the ARS? A defective Guibo-Flex disc can clink/rumble, does not have to vibrate and may not be noticeable in all situations. As you take off harder, the rotational shift of the flex disk is less noticeable. Vibrations in the drive train (noticeable in the seat) are more likely due to the center bearing. If it's related to rotational mass, it could also be the rear strut mount, a bad strut, etc. Again, is this a rotation problem or a fluctuation problem? Your description and repair (wheels) speak of two different problems. What you describe is confusing. Does it oscillate or sway at high speed? How many miles does your car have? What is the maintenance history? Have you taken photos of the underside of your car to see if there are any strut oil leaks or ARS fluid leaks, if you can see any cracks in the Guibo/Flex washer or diff bushings? You mean both rear wheels were out of round? Do you know what caused this, for example a severe bump that could affect the rear suspension? Remember: swaying means you have to make adjustments with the steering wheel. Vibration generally does not occur unless the tire loses contact with the road or the track is compromised, such as when a tire is driven off the road. B. for wishbone bushings.
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| jewel123 (485hp) | It's confusing for me too. Additional information: The car has a little less than 36,000 miles and I am the second owner. From what I see in the Carfax and Davis warranty report, the car has been well maintained. I don't see any leaks. Everything else on the car seems fine. I did experience steering wheel vibration when I first got the car, but a shop repaired a bent front wheel and performed a road force equalizer. Since I was still having problems with the rear end (through the seat), I took it to the dealer. I went to the dealer twice, once for an oil change and to diagnose the shaking, and then took it back again because of the shaking. The first time they found no problems and the second time they said the rear wheels were out of round. That's when I bought the new 20 wheel and tire setup, but the occasional problem persists. For the sake of discussion, let's assume that one of the various sensors in the system produces a small oscillation at a certain speed when on an incline. This is passed on to the stabilizer bar and causes it to become slightly stiffer and softer. So...I don't move the steering wheel, but the stabilizer bar changes the stiffness. Crazy? Perhaps. However, I don't feel anything from the front as there is also an adjustable stabilizer bar. Could also be due to other things, as you already suggested.
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| 01091991 (362hp) | So you had one bent front wheel and then two out of round rear wheels. This is suspicious. Then say that there is a low speed vibration on an incline that can be felt through the seat. First you need to check and do your maintenance. 1. You say “slope” so check the pentosin fluid level. 2. You say “vibration from the seat”. The center bearing cannot be seen because it is covered by a heat shield. It may not be detectable from a lift during a dealer inspection. Next time, ask someone to go with you as this happens when you move. 3. Keep it simple. There could be other suspension issues as in the past three wheels appeared to be bent or out of round. Due to the lower mileage, the dealer technician could complete the inspection more quickly. If there is a problem with the computer module, there should be a code stored. 4. Find another dealer or let him go with you. Make it clear what you know, for example three broken wheels. Have them check for any suspension codes, although I don't bet the electrical suspension is the cause. 5. If it was a rear ARS sway bar, you would feel the rise/fall. When driving straight, the ARS is designed to disconnect, allowing each wheel to move independently, reducing power/energy transfer to the opposite side and the rest of the body, as is the case with traditional fixed anti-roll bars. Is this a 100% separation, probably not, or it depends on the suspension setup. 6. Even engine mounts and gearbox mounts can therefore shift on an incline, or oscillating vibrations can occur when turning. On another BMW I had a problem with the transmission downshifting because the mounts had collapsed and the driveshaft was rubbing against the heat shield. The balance weight rubbed so an oscillating sound could be heard as it sounded once per revolution of the gearbox output. It was felt at lower speeds. Likewise, a bent heat shield or a heat shield with a cracked mounting hole (for a screw) could shift and rub against a slope. The thing is, it could be anything without knowing more. Be diligent. Record it on video. Take them on a technical ride at the dealer. Check your maintenance. And take photos of bushings and parts. If you zoom in, you may be able to see broken jacks or other bad parts.
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