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| 300880 (947hp) | I started using ISTA on my F10 a few weeks ago and kept getting the error message that my battery was below 12.55V. I had to buy a new one anyway, so I bought a BMW battery from the dealer and used my AGM charger/power supply to fully charge it. When running ISTA I also use a Battery Tender power supply. Even with a new battery and this charger connected, I get the "Low Voltage" error message. I tried all the settings on the charger. I find it strange that I have to charge this new battery for a few hours before each ISTA run. My battery reads between 12.1 and 12.3v, with the engine running over 14v. Did I waste $135 on this AGM charger/power supply? What do you use? I need to run ISTA reliably because I do most of my maintenance myself.
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| hubble (38hp) | You need something like the MST-90+
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| approximate (725hp) | What are you trying to use it for? I have never used a power supply when performing basic functions via ISTA. The only time I would worry is if you leave the car's ignition on for a long period of time and do something intensive like coding modules.
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| sivas58 (603hp) | Quote: Originally posted by SWFLf10 What do you want to use it for? I have never used a power supply when performing basic functions via ISTA. The only time I would worry is if you leave the car's ignition on for a long period of time and do something intensive like coding modules. I keep getting error messages in ISTA saying the voltage is below 12.55V, even with a new battery. With the power supply I can program without interruption.
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| candycandy (36hp) | Hello! Is the F10 Power Trunk universal in the sense that I could take it from virtually any F10 and attach it to mine? I have a 2011 F10 535i with a regular trunk and found a broken 2013 550i that is being disassembled. Would the electric trunk on it fit mine? Thanks in advance!
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| spencer123 (199hp) | Quote: Originally written by Rahtel43 Hello! Is the F10 Power Trunk universal in the sense that I could take it from virtually any F10 and attach it to mine? I have a 2011 F10 535i with a regular trunk and found a broken 2013 550i that is being disassembled. Would the electric trunk on it fit mine? Thanks in advance! This is all speculation on my part, but I think the hardware would transfer well. You just need to make sure that all the additional motors, springs and wiring harnesses are there for it. Then you would have to code for it. Here's a video I stumbled upon that shows what you can expect:
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| chiken1 (93hp) | Hello! Is the F10 Power Trunk universal in the sense that I could take it from virtually any F10 and attach it to mine? I have a 2011 F10 535i with a regular trunk and found a broken 2013 550i that is being disassembled. Would the electric trunk on it fit mine? Thanks in advance!
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| megan6 (207hp) | Quote: Originally written by Rahtel43 Hello! Is the F10 Power Trunk universal in the sense that I could take it from virtually any F10 and attach it to mine? I have a 2011 F10 535i with a regular trunk and found a broken 2013 550i that is being disassembled. Would the electric trunk on it fit mine? Thanks in advance! This is all speculation on my part, but I think the hardware would transfer well. You just need to make sure that all the additional motors, springs and wiring harnesses are there for it. Then you would have to code for it. Here's a video I stumbled upon that shows what you can expect:
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| kingdomhearts2 (423hp) | Quote: Originally posted by Nickco43 The bumper foam shipped from the dealer for $84. The car is in the body shop and should be ready on Monday. I bought a charging tube and an MHD indicator from BMS. Apparently MHD has a better tune for my 11 N55, which is more like an E90 N55 than anything else. Curious, where did you find the information that MHD is a better flash tune for 2011? Thanks
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| 252 (151hp) | Quote: Originally posted by Nickco43 Someone I know recommended this intercooler to me from this eBay seller: https://www.ebay.com/itm/Intercooler...53.m1438.l2649 I don't actually care; whether the replica flows worse than the original or not, as I will only go through the first stage. I might even just get an OE Nissan from Rock Auto for $150. I bought mine here for just $256 with free shipping https://www.ebay.com/itm/Front-Mount...72.m2749.l2649 Quote: Originally posted by BrandBMW Curious, where did you find the information, that it is best before date? a better Flash tune for 2011? Thank you for looking at the engine and transmission topics. Among the technical threads, there are many, many threads discussing MHD and bootmod in terms of better flash tuning
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| 03071980 (985hp) | Quote: Originally posted by BrandBMW Curious, where did you find the information that MHD is a better flash tune for 2011? Thanks, I've looked at a few threads comparing the two and it seems like BM3 didn't know in the early days that the early F10s didn't have a drive mode switch and our N55 was an E90 spec compared to that later N55 revisions, for which it was intended for the F series. MHD spent a lot more time on the E90 N55 map and the revisions for the early F10. Both songs are probably good, but after reading everything, I feel like MHD has a slightly better song. This is my first performance mod for a car I've ever owned, so take my words with a grain of salt. I value driveability and reliability at all levels of performance. I drove my E90 to the Pocono Mountains this weekend and miss my F10. This should be done at the body shop on Monday or Tuesday!
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| yomom1 (182hp) | Quote: Originally posted by Nickco43 I've looked at a few threads comparing the two and it seems like BM3 didn't know in the early days that the early F10s didn't have a drive mode switch and our N55 is an E90 model Later N55 revisions for the F series. MHD spent a lot more time on the E90 N55 map and the revisions for the early F10. Both songs are probably good, but after reading everything, I feel like MHD has a slightly better song. This is my first performance mod for a car I've ever owned, so take my words with a grain of salt. I value driveability and reliability at all levels of performance. I drove my E90 to the Pocono Mountains this weekend and miss my F10. This should be done at the body shop on Monday or Tuesday! Hmm, I remember emailing MHD about two years ago and they didn't support our early ECU software even though our engine was PWG while Bootmod3 already had a version. I'm also wondering if both tuners are just E90 based, which I don't want due to the different intake. I'm not sure which one to get, but I can just add $50 for all OTS songs from bootmod3 including the mild transfer sound.
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| shereen (933hp) | I bought my bumper from Kies and am happy with the result... I didn't have to replace the foam or anything else, just the bumper itself.
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| 789456123b (617hp) | Quote: Originally written by JDMSteven. I bought my bumper from Kies and am happy with the result... I didn't have to replace the foam or anything, just the bumper itself. Clean!
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| NewYearsBoy (893hp) | Quote: Originally posted by JDMSteven I bought my bumper from Kies and am happy with the result... I didn't have to replace the foam or anything, just the bumper itself. I bought the same brand bumper as the Kies one on eBay . It matched my original foam. For another $80 for the right foam, it's not that big of a problem.
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| Car54 (565hp) | Absolute Fire I will let the bumper cure inside for a week and then fully install it. I added it all up and got the car for a hair under $14,000. Hopefully the cat goes away and the evaporation leak can be repaired inexpensively. I'm currently at about the maximum I want in a car.
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| woody12 (633hp) | The charging tube was installed today and the car now runs perfectly.
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| 411057 (524hp) | Pretty. Where did you get the charging tube from???
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| jta98z (419hp) | Looks good man, I'm so jealous of your color!
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| neymar (853hp) | Quote: Originally posted by Trainwreck914 Nice. Where did you get the charging tube from? It is the BMS device. Honestly, next time I would have preferred to save $50 and buy it directly from eBay. This is the same pipe as on eBay, with no instructions or BMS branding in the packaging. Not even a packing slip. I can't wait for the rest of my bumper parts to arrive so I can finally enjoy my car a little. I've been holding off spending another $400 on the best-before shipment for a while so my wallet can recover from the unexpected items that showed up during the initial sorting. I have invested $14.2k in the car now, and all told I will easily put $15k into the car. This is a good lesson for anyone looking to buy an old BMW. Make sure you budget a few thousand dollars to sort the car afterward. When I get a chance, I'll write a buyer's guide for the F10 like I did for the E90.
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| bugaboo1 (914hp) | Yes. If you buy an older BMW, you should save some extra money. Be it repairs, maintenance or upgrades. But hey. For $15,000. They are at 25%, if not less than a new one. And it's way better than driving a boring new Camry.
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| 190383 (263hp) | There is a pretty good oil leak coming from the top of the engine and dripping to the back of the oil pan. The dealer noticed this and said that while working on the Vanos bolt he would replace the valve cover gasket and that would fix the problem. To me it looks like the leak is still there. I checked the rear diff fluid and noticed some leaking from the passenger side axle seal. I tried one last time and couldn't get the front diff filler screw out. I will have the front differential fluid replaced by a repair shop.
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| 160891 (960hp) | I coded my normal transmission as a sport transmission. When I'm reversing in neutral, I notice a bit of a rough idle. I think I still have a vacuum leak somewhere or something.
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| 550GT-NZ (215hp) | Quote: Originally posted by Nickco43 It's the BMS device. Honestly, next time I would have preferred to save $50 and buy it directly from eBay. This is the same pipe as on eBay, with no instructions or BMS branding in the packaging. Not even a packing slip. I can't wait for the rest of my bumper parts to arrive so I can finally enjoy my car a little. I've been holding off spending another $400 on the best-before shipment for a while so my wallet can recover from the unexpected items that showed up during the initial sorting. I have invested $14.2k in the car now, and all told I will easily put $15k into the car. This is a good lesson for anyone looking to buy an old BMW. Make sure you budget a few thousand dollars to sort the car afterward. If I get the chance, I'll write a buying guide for the F10 like I did for the E90. 15,000 including the original purchase price of the car?
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| martin11 (737hp) | I have a rough idle forward and reverse. Kind of like a staggering feeling. Only on wheels. No gas, no brake
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| SHOWTIME (717hp) | Quote: Originally posted by Unspec 15,000 including the original purchase price of the car, right? I'm at $14.2k, including the purchase price of the car, tags, title, taxes, repairs and upgrades.
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| aurinko (262hp) | Quote: Originally written by Nickco43. I'm at 14.2k with the purchase price of the car, tags, title, taxes, repairs and upgrades. Pretty! Not a bad deal.
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| pasodeblas (841hp) | Today I received my E31 8 series sunshade motor and it can be screwed on directly! My rear sunshade works wonderfully!
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| Munzy (521hp) | Quote: Originally posted by Nickco43 I got my E31 8 series sunshade motor today and it bolts right on! My rear sunshade works wonderfully! Pretty! So you just had a weak engine and no other problems? Mine goes up but gets stuck when going down unless I push my arms in while someone hits the switch.
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| silver13 (838hp) | Quote: Originally written by beegeezy Nice! So you just had a weak engine and no other problems? Mine goes up but gets stuck when going down unless I push my arms in while someone hits the switch. This is what my parasol was like before. The motor is simply weak and needs to be replaced. A few days ago I finally installed my new bumper and am blown away by how much it changes the car. For $350 on eBay it's a great deal. I drove over 300 miles this weekend and everything seems to be going well. My cats passed the OBD readiness monitor but now my evaporation system fails. I want to purchase a fogger before the end of summer and check for evaporation and vacuum leaks.
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| football30 (977hp) | Quote: Originally posted by Nickco43 The bumper foam shipped from the dealer for $84. The car is in the body shop and should be ready on Monday. I bought a charging tube and an MHD indicator from BMS. Apparently MHD has a better tune for my 11 N55, which is more like an E90 N55 than anything else. Curious, where did you find the information that MHD is a better flash tune for 2011? Thanks
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| piffle (153hp) | Quote: Originally posted by Nickco43 Someone I know recommended this intercooler to me from this eBay seller: https://www.ebay.com/itm/Intercooler...53.m1438.l2649 I don't actually care; whether the replica flows worse than the original or not, as I will only go through the first stage. I might even just get an OE Nissan from Rock Auto for $150. I bought mine here for just $256 with free shipping https://www.ebay.com/itm/Front-Mount...72.m2749.l2649 Quote: Originally posted by BrandBMW Curious, where did you find the information, that it is best before date? a better Flash tune for 2011? Thank you for looking at the engine and transmission topics. Among the technical threads, there are many, many threads discussing MHD and bootmod in terms of better flash tuning
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| wmg/bmw (459hp) | Quote: Originally posted by BrandBMW Curious, where did you find the information that MHD is a better flash tune for 2011? Thanks, I've looked at a few threads comparing the two and it seems like BM3 didn't know in the early days that the early F10s didn't have a drive mode switch and our N55 was an E90 spec compared to that later N55 revisions, for which it was intended for the F series. MHD spent a lot more time on the E90 N55 map and the revisions for the early F10. Both songs are probably good, but after reading everything, I feel like MHD has a slightly better song. This is my first performance mod for a car I've ever owned, so take my words with a grain of salt. I value driveability and reliability at all levels of performance. I drove my E90 to the Pocono Mountains this weekend and miss my F10. This should be done at the body shop on Monday or Tuesday!
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| lauryn (893hp) | Quote: Originally posted by Nickco43 I've looked at a few threads comparing the two and it seems like BM3 didn't know in the early days that the early F10s didn't have a drive mode switch and our N55 is an E90 model Later N55 revisions for the F series. MHD spent a lot more time on the E90 N55 map and the revisions for the early F10. Both songs are probably good, but after reading everything, I feel like MHD has a slightly better song. This is my first performance mod for a car I've ever owned, so take my words with a grain of salt. I value driveability and reliability at all levels of performance. I drove my E90 to the Pocono Mountains this weekend and miss my F10. This should be done at the body shop on Monday or Tuesday! Hmm, I remember emailing MHD about two years ago and they didn't support our early ECU software even though our engine was PWG while Bootmod3 already had a version. I'm also wondering if both tuners are just E90 based, which I don't want due to the different intake. I'm not sure which one to get, but I can just add $50 for all OTS songs from bootmod3 including the mild transfer sound.
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| FMorris (676hp) | I bought my bumper from Kies and am happy with the result... I didn't have to replace the foam or anything else, just the bumper itself.
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| nikki18 (794hp) | Quote: Originally written by JDMSteven. I bought my bumper from Kies and am happy with the result... I didn't have to replace the foam or anything, just the bumper itself. Clean!
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| compton13 (933hp) | Quote: Originally posted by JDMSteven I bought my bumper from Kies and am happy with the result... I didn't have to replace the foam or anything, just the bumper itself. I bought the same brand bumper as the Kies one on eBay . It matched my original foam. For another $80 for the right foam, it's not that big of a problem.
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| BMW Alpina (735hp) | Absolute Fire I will let the bumper cure inside for a week and then fully install it. I added it all up and got the car for a hair under $14,000. Hopefully the cat goes away and the evaporation leak can be repaired inexpensively. I'm currently at about the maximum I want in a car.
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| talula (426hp) | The charging tube was installed today and the car now runs perfectly.
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| 200789 (115hp) | Pretty. Where did you get the charging tube from???
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| 1є (678hp) | Looks good man, I'm so jealous of your color!
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| m-white (429hp) | Quote: Originally posted by Trainwreck914 Nice. Where did you get the charging tube from? It is the BMS device. Honestly, next time I would have preferred to save $50 and buy it directly from eBay. This is the same pipe as on eBay, with no instructions or BMS branding in the packaging. Not even a packing slip. I can't wait for the rest of my bumper parts to arrive so I can finally enjoy my car a little. I've been holding off spending another $400 on the best-before shipment for a while so my wallet can recover from the unexpected items that showed up during the initial sorting. I have invested $14.2k in the car now, and all told I will easily put $15k into the car. This is a good lesson for anyone looking to buy an old BMW. Make sure you budget a few thousand dollars to sort the car afterward. When I get a chance, I'll write a buyer's guide for the F10 like I did for the E90.
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| illusions (266hp) | Yes. If you buy an older BMW, you should save some extra money. Be it repairs, maintenance or upgrades. But hey. For $15,000. They are at 25%, if not less than a new one. And it's way better than driving a boring new Camry.
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| 15091982 (120hp) | There is a pretty good oil leak coming from the top of the engine and dripping to the back of the oil pan. The dealer noticed this and said that while working on the Vanos bolt he would replace the valve cover gasket and that would fix the problem. To me it looks like the leak is still there. I checked the rear diff fluid and noticed some leaking from the passenger side axle seal. I tried one last time and couldn't get the front diff filler screw out. I will have the front differential fluid replaced by a repair shop.
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| bogdan (595hp) | I coded my normal transmission as a sport transmission. When I'm reversing in neutral, I notice a bit of a rough idle. I think I still have a vacuum leak somewhere or something.
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| 21051997 (563hp) | Quote: Originally posted by Nickco43 It's the BMS device. Honestly, next time I would have preferred to save $50 and buy it directly from eBay. This is the same pipe as on eBay, with no instructions or BMS branding in the packaging. Not even a packing slip. I can't wait for the rest of my bumper parts to arrive so I can finally enjoy my car a little. I've been holding off spending another $400 on the best-before shipment for a while so my wallet can recover from the unexpected items that showed up during the initial sorting. I have invested $14.2k in the car now, and all told I will easily put $15k into the car. This is a good lesson for anyone looking to buy an old BMW. Make sure you budget a few thousand dollars to sort the car afterward. If I get the chance, I'll write a buying guide for the F10 like I did for the E90. 15,000 including the original purchase price of the car?
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| grad2010 (53hp) | I have a rough idle forward and reverse. Kind of like a staggering feeling. Only on wheels. No gas, no brake
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| cycling (592hp) | Quote: Originally posted by Unspec 15,000 including the original purchase price of the car, right? I'm at $14.2k, including the purchase price of the car, tags, title, taxes, repairs and upgrades.
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| mynameiskhan (295hp) | Quote: Originally written by Nickco43. I'm at 14.2k with the purchase price of the car, tags, title, taxes, repairs and upgrades. Pretty! Not a bad deal.
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| knulla (868hp) | Today I received my E31 8 series sunshade motor and it can be screwed on directly! My rear sunshade works wonderfully!
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| sumsung (89hp) | Quote: Originally posted by Nickco43 I got my E31 8 series sunshade motor today and it bolts right on! My rear sunshade works wonderfully! Pretty! So you just had a weak engine and no other problems? Mine goes up but gets stuck when going down unless I push my arms in while someone hits the switch.
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| austin07 (479hp) | Quote: Originally written by beegeezy Nice! So you just had a weak engine and no other problems? Mine goes up but gets stuck when going down unless I push my arms in while someone hits the switch. This is what my parasol was like before. The motor is simply weak and needs to be replaced. A few days ago I finally installed my new bumper and am blown away by how much it changes the car. For $350 on eBay it's a great deal. I drove over 300 miles this weekend and everything seems to be going well. My cats passed the OBD readiness monitor but now my evaporation system fails. I want to purchase a fogger before the end of summer and check for evaporation and vacuum leaks.
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| turtle21 (667hp) | Too many conflicts back and forth. I have an improved inlet where the filters sit behind the grill. Have we connected the MAF sensor or is it stuck? If it's going to stick, there's a shutoff plate or just buy a hose and leave the MAF off altogether. Thanks for the help
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| smart123 (771hp) | Too many conflicts back and forth. I have an improved inlet where the filters sit behind the grill. Have we connected the MAF sensor or is it stuck? If it's going to stick, there's a shutoff plate or just buy a hose and leave the MAF off altogether. Thanks for the help
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| Helena (649hp) | I usually get my oil changed at my local dealer every 3,500-4,000 miles, but I recently installed my JB4 and don't want to ruin my warranty... So I was wondering what oil you guys use? I would like to have an oil change done at a local German car service and am open to suggestions. Thanks!
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| sonora (99hp) | If you want to stray from the BMW/Shell 5w30, then Mobil 1 0w40 is probably the best all-round LL-01 oil available.
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| juicey (441hp) | Quote: Originally posted by gatorfast If you want to stray from the BMW/Shell 5w30, then Mobil 1 0w40 is probably the best all-around LL-01 oil available. Thanks!
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| TrqAdct (715hp) | Or Pennzoil Ultra Euro 5w-30! Also LL-01!
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| Welkom01 (974hp) | You shouldn't need to change your oil, but every 15,000...not all 3,5-4.000!
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| rtyrty (194hp) | Castro fully synthetic 5w30. $10 at local car dealerships. Every now and then I treat myself to some money and get some oil from the dealer.
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| 09031987 (750hp) | Quote: Originally written by Bmw Castro full synthetic doubles 5w30. $10 at local car dealerships. Every now and then I treat myself to some money and get some oil from the dealer. Pretty! I'm not changing my oil because it's still under warranty. Please ask how many liters you need to use?
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| kiki22 (366hp) | For the 6-cylinder it is 7 liters and for the 8-cylinder it is 7 liters 9.
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| ilham (734hp) | Quote: Originally written by Bmw Castro full synthetic doubles 5w30. $10 at local car dealerships. Every now and then I treat myself to some money and get some oil from the dealer. Thank you, this is actually very helpful
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| Dietani83 (282hp) | Quote: Originally written by lsturbointeg. You shouldn't need to change your oil, but every 15,000...not every 3.5-4,000! ... 15k?? I don't know anything about this man.
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| blaze (135hp) | I don't think the Castrol oil is ll-01. If you are still under warranty, make sure the warranty meets our requirements-01.
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| 18021996 (884hp) | Quote: Originally written by Arko528 ... 15k?? I don't know anything about this man. Yes, the oil is good for 15,000 miles. This has been proven so many times by real labs that have taken samples at different time intervals. Often people see the oil turning dark and think it's time for an oil change. That's just the oil blend working as it should. Even non-synthetic oil lasts 5,000 to 10,000 miles. Change all oil every 3,000 miles, BS markets it from the same people who sell it. Auto repair shops are pushing for it because it makes more money for them too.
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| aaaddd (378hp) | Quote: Originally posted by 493263 Quote: Originally posted by Arko528 ... 15k?? I don't know anything about this man. Yes, the oil is good for 15,000 miles. This has been proven so many times by real labs that have taken samples at different time intervals. Often people see the oil turning dark and think it's time for an oil change. That's just the oil blend working as it should. Even non-synthetic oil lasts 5,000 to 10,000 miles. Change all oil every 3,000 miles, BS markets it from the same people who sell it. Auto repair shops are pushing for it because it makes more money for them too. Maybe that's true... But I'll just go all 4K because it's free... I just don't want to ruin my warranty now
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| berlingo (508hp) | Quote: Originally posted by Arko528 Maybe that's true... But I just drive every 4,000 miles because it's free... I just don't want to ruin my warranty now. Which vehicle needs to have its oil changed after 4,000 miles??
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| anna23 (916hp) | The whole point of BMW specifying a certain oil quality is based on the 15km service interval... I just stick to the maintenance schedule the car requires of me. BMW builds these engines so I'm pretty sure they know when to service them! Performing a service every 4 km with such good oil quality is a waste of money. I don't want to be abrupt, but it's just a mass market BMW sold worldwide. It's not like the car has a heavily tuned racing engine.
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| 0125 (515hp) | Quote: Originally posted by lsturbointeg Quote: Originally posted by Bmw Castro full synthetic 5w30 doubles. $10 at local car dealerships. Every now and then I treat myself to some money and get some oil from the dealer. Pretty! I'm not changing my oil because it's still under warranty. How many liters do you need to use? I don't change my oil yet either. I drive the car pretty hard, which burns a quart of oil every 7-8,000 miles. My dealer refuses to fill my car :/ Also, if I were to get my oil completely changed, I would use oil from the BMW parts department.
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| 04081987 (42hp) | Quote: Originally posted by Simple3 I don't think the Castrol oil is ll-01. If you are still under warranty, make sure the warranty meets our requirements ll-01. That's actually it. The European version is 0-30, in the US market alternatives are SAE 5w-30, like the one I use: http://test.resource.bmwusa.com/Pdf_...12c1eea2c.arox
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| 16121985 (170hp) | Quote: Originally posted by Arko528 Maybe that's true... But I just drive every 4 km because it's free... I just don't want to ruin my warranty now. I just called my SA @ BWW and he confirmed that our engines are designed to allow oil changes at 15,000 mile intervals. As mentioned above, my oil change warranty is for the next two years and occurs at 15,000 mile intervals. You, my friend, are just flushing your money down the toilet when you could be using the money somewhere else. Plus, your car will remind you of your maintenance schedule. You could even check how many miles are left until your next oil change. You should really read your manual my friend, and to be honest no matter which dealer you take it to, they're going to have to look at you with money in their eyes!
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| 15051982 (366hp) | Everyone has their own opinion about oil change intervals. The best way to determine the appropriate interval is to have the oil tested. That being said, oil is cheap and oil changes are easy to do, so I don't mind spending $50 every 5,000 miles for peace of mind. Also, unless you're looking for boutique oils like Redline, Walmart is usually the best place by far for oil. You can buy 5qt jugs of Mobil 1 or Castrol 0w40 for approx $25.
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| mjsbmw (848hp) | Quote: Originally posted by lsturbointeg Quote: Originally posted by Arko528 Maybe that's true... But I just drive every 4km because it's free... I just don't want to ruin my warranty now. I just called my SA @ BWW and he confirmed that our engines are designed to have oil changes every 15,000 miles. As mentioned above, my oil change warranty is for the next two years and occurs at 15,000 mile intervals. You, my friend, are just flushing your money down the toilet when you could be using the money somewhere else. Plus, your car will remind you of your maintenance schedule. You could even check how many miles are left until your next oil change. You should really read your manual my friend, and to be honest no matter which dealer you take it to, they're going to have to look at you with money in their eyes! Okay, Susan, calm down... Like I said... It's FREE. I didn't spend a dollar on an oil change
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| karibu (321hp) | Do it every 7,000 miles. Save money, time, oil and the planet.
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| RAMF10 (872hp) | When I had my M3, BMW's scheduled oil change was at 15,000 miles with the recommended Castrol 10W-60. I changed it at 7,500 miles and then did the scheduled 15,000 mile change. Motor oil is the least expensive component to change. Everyone drives their car differently and in different climate zones. Here in Houston, where it's over 100 degrees for several days due to my driving style, I'll change it at 7,500 miles and then do the 15,000 mile change. Motor oil begins to break down practically the moment you put it in your car from dirt, heat, condensation, metals, etc. You can spend the money to test the oil, or you can just do the same Spend money and change the oil.
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| 110075 (779hp) | I usually get my oil changed at my local dealer every 3,500-4,000 miles, but I recently installed my JB4 and don't want to ruin my warranty... So I was wondering what oil you guys use? I would like to have an oil change done at a local German car service and am open to suggestions. Thanks!
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| classof2011 (53hp) | If you want to stray from the BMW/Shell 5w30, then Mobil 1 0w40 is probably the best all-round LL-01 oil available.
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| Johnson1 (72hp) | Quote: Originally posted by gatorfast If you want to stray from the BMW/Shell 5w30, then Mobil 1 0w40 is probably the best all-around LL-01 oil available. Thanks!
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| b55555 (470hp) | Or Pennzoil Ultra Euro 5w-30! Also LL-01!
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| garfield2 (934hp) | You shouldn't need to change your oil, but every 15,000...not all 3,5-4.000!
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| solotu (745hp) | Castro fully synthetic 5w30. $10 at local car dealerships. Every now and then I treat myself to some money and get some oil from the dealer.
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| toyota99 (937hp) | Quote: Originally written by Bmw Castro full synthetic doubles 5w30. $10 at local car dealerships. Every now and then I treat myself to some money and get some oil from the dealer. Pretty! I'm not changing my oil because it's still under warranty. Please ask how many liters you need to use?
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| daemon (182hp) | For the 6-cylinder it is 7 liters and for the 8-cylinder it is 7 liters 9.
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| annaba23 (327hp) | Quote: Originally written by Bmw Castro full synthetic doubles 5w30. $10 at local car dealerships. Every now and then I treat myself to some money and get some oil from the dealer. Thank you, this is actually very helpful
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| 19861022 (432hp) | Quote: Originally written by lsturbointeg. You shouldn't need to change your oil, but every 15,000...not every 3.5-4,000! ... 15k?? I don't know anything about this man.
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| winston3 (479hp) | I don't think the Castrol oil is ll-01. If you are still under warranty, make sure the warranty meets our requirements-01.
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| monet (933hp) | Quote: Originally written by Arko528 ... 15k?? I don't know anything about this man. Yes, the oil is good for 15,000 miles. This has been proven so many times by real labs that have taken samples at different time intervals. Often people see the oil turning dark and think it's time for an oil change. That's just the oil blend working as it should. Even non-synthetic oil lasts 5,000 to 10,000 miles. Change all oil every 3,000 miles, BS markets it from the same people who sell it. Auto repair shops are pushing for it because it makes more money for them too.
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| mayito (438hp) | Quote: Originally posted by 493263 Quote: Originally posted by Arko528 ... 15k?? I don't know anything about this man. Yes, the oil is good for 15,000 miles. This has been proven so many times by real labs that have taken samples at different time intervals. Often people see the oil turning dark and think it's time for an oil change. That's just the oil blend working as it should. Even non-synthetic oil lasts 5,000 to 10,000 miles. Change all oil every 3,000 miles, BS markets it from the same people who sell it. Auto repair shops are pushing for it because it makes more money for them too. Maybe that's true... But I'll just go all 4K because it's free... I just don't want to ruin my warranty now
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| zarinaismailova (132hp) | Quote: Originally posted by Arko528 Maybe that's true... But I just drive every 4,000 miles because it's free... I just don't want to ruin my warranty now. Which vehicle needs to have its oil changed after 4,000 miles??
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| epa650 (402hp) | The whole point of BMW specifying a certain oil quality is based on the 15km service interval... I just stick to the maintenance schedule the car requires of me. BMW builds these engines so I'm pretty sure they know when to service them! Performing a service every 4 km with such good oil quality is a waste of money. I don't want to be abrupt, but it's just a mass market BMW sold worldwide. It's not like the car has a heavily tuned racing engine.
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| lauren23 (436hp) | Quote: Originally posted by lsturbointeg Quote: Originally posted by Bmw Castro full synthetic 5w30 doubles. $10 at local car dealerships. Every now and then I treat myself to some money and get some oil from the dealer. Pretty! I'm not changing my oil because it's still under warranty. How many liters do you need to use? I don't change my oil yet either. I drive the car pretty hard, which burns a quart of oil every 7-8,000 miles. My dealer refuses to fill my car :/ Also, if I were to get my oil completely changed, I would use oil from the BMW parts department.
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| martina1 (805hp) | Quote: Originally posted by Simple3 I don't think the Castrol oil is ll-01. If you are still under warranty, make sure the warranty meets our requirements ll-01. That's actually it. The European version is 0-30, in the US market alternatives are SAE 5w-30, like the one I use: http://test.resource.bmwusa.com/Pdf_...12c1eea2c.arox
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| julissa (430hp) | Quote: Originally posted by Arko528 Maybe that's true... But I just drive every 4 km because it's free... I just don't want to ruin my warranty now. I just called my SA @ BWW and he confirmed that our engines are designed to allow oil changes at 15,000 mile intervals. As mentioned above, my oil change warranty is for the next two years and occurs at 15,000 mile intervals. You, my friend, are just flushing your money down the toilet when you could be using the money somewhere else. Plus, your car will remind you of your maintenance schedule. You could even check how many miles are left until your next oil change. You should really read your manual my friend, and to be honest no matter which dealer you take it to, they're going to have to look at you with money in their eyes!
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| tHTaJehzsp (141hp) | Everyone has their own opinion about oil change intervals. The best way to determine the appropriate interval is to have the oil tested. That being said, oil is cheap and oil changes are easy to do, so I don't mind spending $50 every 5,000 miles for peace of mind. Also, unless you're looking for boutique oils like Redline, Walmart is usually the best place by far for oil. You can buy 5qt jugs of Mobil 1 or Castrol 0w40 for approx $25.
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| fable2 (959hp) | Quote: Originally posted by lsturbointeg Quote: Originally posted by Arko528 Maybe that's true... But I just drive every 4km because it's free... I just don't want to ruin my warranty now. I just called my SA @ BWW and he confirmed that our engines are designed to have oil changes every 15,000 miles. As mentioned above, my oil change warranty is for the next two years and occurs at 15,000 mile intervals. You, my friend, are just flushing your money down the toilet when you could be using the money somewhere else. Plus, your car will remind you of your maintenance schedule. You could even check how many miles are left until your next oil change. You should really read your manual my friend, and to be honest no matter which dealer you take it to, they're going to have to look at you with money in their eyes! Okay, Susan, calm down... Like I said... It's FREE. I didn't spend a dollar on an oil change
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| 201208 (475hp) | Do it every 7,000 miles. Save money, time, oil and the planet.
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| baseball30 (105hp) | When I had my M3, BMW's scheduled oil change was at 15,000 miles with the recommended Castrol 10W-60. I changed it at 7,500 miles and then did the scheduled 15,000 mile change. Motor oil is the least expensive component to change. Everyone drives their car differently and in different climate zones. Here in Houston, where it's over 100 degrees for several days due to my driving style, I'll change it at 7,500 miles and then do the 15,000 mile change. Motor oil begins to break down practically the moment you put it in your car from dirt, heat, condensation, metals, etc. You can spend the money to test the oil, or you can just do the same Spend money and change the oil.
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| sophie08 (568hp) | Hi everyone, I'm thinking about picking up this car, it's my cousin's neighbor. The car is owned and driven by a suburban vehicle. The guy is probably around 55-60 years old and has always serviced it at BMW when needed. It has some maintenance records. The car runs well and has no CELs etc. Clean title, no accidents. I'm just wondering what I should pay attention to with this mileage? At the time I had a 335i xdrive from 2008. I would be grateful for any help. Thanks!
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| putain (749hp) | Interestingly, you could describe my car. 2013 535xi, with 120,000 miles. Always serviced, no major problems and no accidents. I have owned the car since the beginning and over the years have done the following: - A/C condenser replaced - 2 CV axles/joints replaced - Thermostat housing replaced - Water pump replaced - Transmission flush - Valve cover replaced - Lower front suspension parts that are prone to wear replaced (I'd have to dig up the paperwork to be more specific) - Driver's side door lock actuator replaced - Rear Guibo/Flex disc x 2 That's it. Plus the usual brakes, oil changes, etc. I still drive with the original dynamic shock absorbers and anti-roll bars. No engine problems at all. Normal oil consumption. Some signs of wear on the inside door handle of the driver's door.
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| soroka (790hp) | Do you know what was repaired and when? Great cars, but wear depends on mileage and time. For example, for most people, the water pump usually breaks around 80,000 miles. Was it replaced??
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| 28021981 (212hp) | Thank you for the couple's responses so far. I'll take a look at the car and see what records he actually has. He has owned it for 6 1/2 years. He put new tires on a few months ago, so that's a good thing. He said the brakes had been done a bit before he bought it at 50,000 miles (now at 108) - what do people get from the brakes? I think they probably need to be done soon. The Saw Powerstop kit costs about $570 online, plus labor. I guess another $700 probably for labor? He said the previous owner replaced the water pump and some gaskets - I think valve cover gaskets? The guy is a pretty high-ranking person for a company – that was his everyday life. He always had the service done at our local BMW dealer. So it would be great to see if he has these records or I can even call a BMW dealer who would keep them. It would be nice to see if he has done any suspension work - control arms, constant velocity axles/joints, etc. Anything specifically I should look for or ask about would be great. I'm debating between this and a 2014 Audi A6 3.0t - they hold their value better - the BMW is a fair bit cheaper. I even looked at the MMR and auction numbers.
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| 180794 (530hp) | Hi everyone, I'm thinking about picking up this car, it's my cousin's neighbor. The car is owned and driven by a suburban vehicle. The guy is probably around 55-60 years old and has always serviced it at BMW when needed. It has some maintenance records. The car runs well and has no CELs etc. Clean title, no accidents. I'm just wondering what I should pay attention to with this mileage? At the time I had a 335i xdrive from 2008. I would be grateful for any help. Thanks!
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| darek (220hp) | Interestingly, you could describe my car. 2013 535xi, with 120,000 miles. Always serviced, no major problems and no accidents. I have owned the car since the beginning and have done the following over the years: - A/C condenser replaced - 2 CV axles/joints replaced - Thermostat housing replaced - Water pump replaced - Transmission flush - Valve cover replaced - Lower front suspension parts that are prone to wear replaced (I'd have to dig up the paperwork to be more specific) - Driver's side door lock actuator replaced - Rear Guibo/Flex disc x 2 That's it. Plus the usual brakes, oil changes, etc. I still drive with the original dynamic shock absorbers and anti-roll bars. No engine problems at all. Normal oil consumption. Some signs of wear on the inside door handle of the driver's door.
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| vjcrdbx (62hp) | Do you know what was repaired and when? Great cars, but wear depends on mileage and time. For example, for most people, the water pump usually breaks around 80,000 miles. Was it replaced??
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| Asiann (307hp) | Thank you for the couple's responses so far. I'll take a look at the car and see what records he actually has. He has owned it for 6 1/2 years. He put new tires on a few months ago, so that's a good thing. He said the brakes had been done a bit before he bought it at 50,000 miles (now at 108) - what do people get from the brakes? I think they probably need to be done soon. The Saw Powerstop kit costs about $570 online, plus labor. I guess another $700 probably for labor? He said the previous owner replaced the water pump and some gaskets - I think valve cover gaskets? The guy is a pretty high-ranking person for a company – that was his everyday life. He always had the service done at our local BMW dealer. So it would be great to see if he has these records or I can even call a BMW dealer who would keep them. It would be nice to see if he has done any suspension work - control arms, constant velocity axles/joints, etc. Anything specifically I should look for or ask about would be great. I'm debating between this and a 2014 Audi A6 3.0t - they hold their value better - the BMW is a fair bit cheaper. I even looked at the MMR and auction numbers.
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| odayobeid (544hp) | Good evening, I have a TPS error. How do I know which tire I need the sensor for? When I bought the car it had the error.
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| poochy (664hp) | Take it to Discount Tires. They can tell you which one is broken and replace it
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| lovelove3 (163hp) | Do you wear BMW sensors?? I wonder how much they run for
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| badstuff (195hp) | You can order multiple compatible sensor brands. It depends on which one(s) you choose how much they will cost. By the way, if you go to the VEHICLE STATUS screen in iDrive, don't you see which tire is faulty (should be yellow instead of green)? If all 4 are green, you may have a faulty module instead of a faulty sensor.
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| tyskie (324hp) | Interesting, I think I'll have to play with it a bit.
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| science (517hp) | Quote: Originally written by Magallon0820 You wear BMW sensors?? I wonder how much they run for it. The one I went to had BMW sensors. They changed my tires from one set of wheels to another and somehow lost a sensor so they gave me a new BMW sensor. They showed me before installing.
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| jamier9 (78hp) | Quote: Originally written by Magallon0820 You wear BMW sensors?? I wonder how much they cost. When I had my winter tires installed in 2019, I received 4 HUF TPM sensors from Discount Tire. These sensors have rubber valve stems (as they are used in extreme winter conditions). As mentioned before, you can ask about BMW sensors or spare parts and they can then give you a price quote. If you want metal valve stems or rubber valve stems, you can negotiate everything and set the price. Good luck.
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| megan22 (171hp) | When I click on the first logo nothing happens, just a picture of my car and that's it lol
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| tuttle (52hp) | These cars are built in such a way that if a sensor is defective, the entire system shuts down. You will have to take it to a workshop for diagnosis, or if you have BMW diagnostic software it can tell you. That's why I advise you to take it to the discount tire. The diagnosis is free and they have the right sensor for you.
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| alex86 (236hp) | Quote: Originally posted by Magallon0820 When I click on the first logo nothing happens, just a picture of my car and that's it lol. Which logo do you mean? And who are you asking? (You lost me).
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| vtataru (801hp) | Lol that picture you posted, I can't get my tires to turn green or yellow or anything lol
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| 22051983 (868hp) | Quote: Originally posted by Magallon0820 Lol that picture you posted, I can't get my tires to turn green or yellow or anything lol Ah...okay. The first icon on the VEHICLE STATUS screen will show you the TPM sensor value... but you must drive first. The TPM sensor only sends a signal when the wheel is rotating. The second icon on the Vehicle Status screen is the icon you select to reset/reinitialize the TPM system if you have added air or replaced/removed a wheel/tire...which begins a new baseline. You can press the OPTION button (next to the iDrive controller button) and then have the option to go directly to the embedded user manual for instructions or more information about what you see on the screen. However, to reset/reinitialize the system, you must first be in idle when you select the initialization prompt and then start driving, which will then start the reset process.
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| 10081983 (905hp) | Good evening, I have a TPS error. How do I know which tire I need the sensor for? When I bought the car it had the error.
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| tgovsa (153hp) | Take it to Discount Tires. They can tell you which one is broken and replace it
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