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| ALPINAB12COUPE57 (54hp) | Quote: Originally posted by lsturbointeg who said I'm losing tire pressure who said I blame BMW, also aftermarket wheels or not. I still had the same problem with my stock wheels! All I'm saying is, it's annoying and I've been dealing with it for the last few years, so calm down that I confused you with the original poster. I figured BMW would blame them if I named the thread, but I just realized you're not the original author. Regarding the original poster – this happened to me with 3 different brands when it got colder outside. This isn't just available from BMW. Discount Tire even sends reminder emails to check tire pressure when temperatures fluctuate. http://www.discounttire.com/dtcs/inf....dos%3fpap%3dt
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| corinthian (436hp) | Quote: Originally posted by AmooManiak I confused you with the original poster. I figured BMW would blame them if I named the thread, but I just realized you're not the original author. Regarding the original poster – this happened to me with 3 different brands when it got colder outside. This isn't just available from BMW. Discount Tire even sends reminder emails to check tire pressure when temperatures fluctuate. http://www.discounttire.com/dtcs/inf....dos%3fpap%3dt No problem bro!
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| whitecat (160hp) | You should expect a pressure drop of 1 psi for every -10°F drop in temperature. 36 psi at 62°F is probably closer to 33 psi at 32°F. Nitrogen behaves largely the same with temperature drops.
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| findajob (224hp) | Lol @ this thread. Really BMW? Lol!
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| 19951996 (581hp) | Quote: Originally posted by Elitex Lol @ this thread. Really BMW? Lol! Really BMW? The reserve light comes on when my fuel tank is almost empty? WTF. Really BMW? Does the oil need to be changed in 2016? WTF. Really BMW? My turn signal flickers on and off when I turn it on - shouldn't it just stay on in 2016. WTF.
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| juliajulia (25hp) | Quote: Originally written by BMWrules7 Really BMW? The reserve light comes on when my fuel tank is almost empty? WTF. Really BMW? Does the oil need to be changed in 2016? WTF. Really BMW? My turn signal flickers on and off when I turn it on - shouldn't it just stay on in 2016. WTF. You're pretty funny. You have more?
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| 161984 (453hp) | Quote: Originally posted by rntaylor You're pretty funny. Do you have any more? When I receive a reminder tone informing me that the outside temperature is 37 degrees, even though my dashboard clearly shows 37 degrees.
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| tktyf (916hp) | If I try to commit suicide and BMW puts this airbag thing in my steering wheel. Really BMW???
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| sapito (5hp) | Quote: Originally posted by AmooManiak If I try to commit suicide and BMW puts this airbag thing in my steering wheel. Really BMW??? Lol, now with collision detection and full braking intervention, airbags, BMW assistant, driving your car into a wall is simply no longer an option --- BMW really?
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| a9999999 (677hp) | really BMW????
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| luiscarlos (172hp) | Okay guys, I've had a 2011 550i N63 for about 1.5 years, drove it at 50k, now it's at 90k. Anyway, the car was running well at first, then around 70km I got to the point where I couldn't quite hold on even though the car wanted to push, but then it stopped with a drive train malfunction. /So bam made oil and the spark plugs didn't light, I took it to the mechanic, injector 8 is broken. I went to BMW they didn't even address the care package I had but they acted stupid so I wasted money getting it checked and then I called North America they have the case manager set up and of course they paid The injector needs to be repaired, mind you that was #8. $1800 fixed price but they paid for it. However, there were around 75,000. Now at 90,000 km I have a misfire on cylinder 8, I don't know why. I called North, got a case manager, and scheduled another appointment on Monday to figure out what was wrong. I haven't been able to get this beast on the road for over 20,000 miles, I drive it at speed and it handles perfectly, when you step on it the engine shakes, the exhaust smells strange and sounds really bad. By the way, I'm covered by the customer support package until February, mind you. What after? I'm being ripped off by BMW?? I've had 7 BMW 135i through I love BMW and stand by them, but I feel like I'm being cheated at the end of the day. I just hope they find something and fix it, if not I don't know what to do. I just wanted to write this post for the people out there who are still dealing with this issue.
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| 198825 (164hp) | Sure, I could trade it in, but in my case the car is really negative because it doesn't sell well and plus all those damn extra repairs the other week it was a boost pressure sensor, then the week before that the coolant pump for the turbos, that is Nothing before that I had 2-3 other things. I can't even begin to understand how a car engine can be so damn terrible. I only speak about experiences and facts. I had great engines from BMW, but wow, this car has a serious problem and I just wanted to write about it to see other people's opinions 💭 Also, my timing chain was replaced in 2015 and that's what I found out too.
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| 151090 (417hp) | Cut your losses and drop it.
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| tempo1 (908hp) | Regarding the misfire, have you tried replacing the coils? If I were you, I would refinance my car bill with a credit union like Penfed that offers the Route66 Guarantee. I recently had an expensive repair that was completed quickly and without any problems.
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| lisa22 (241hp) | Short story: Bought new 550i in 2011. Had fuel injector issues/multiple replacements for about 30,000 miles. The N63 service package is now completed at approximately 80,000 and 102,000 miles. When I started at about 90K I had the same symptoms as you - the dealer replaced both turbos. The problem was not fixed and my 5 year 100k warranty finally expired when I was in for service at 101k - complained again - this time the problem was correctly diagnosed: Right side turbo vacuum control valves/pressure transducers and lines. The left side was previously replaced under warranty. List price for repair = $2500. I have a great SA and complained heavily because these symptoms had started before my warranty expired. BMW agreed to a goodwill discount on my final cost of $900. The car runs perfectly now until it breaks again...
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| aaaaa11111 (770hp) | Quote: Originally posted by M3_wannabe Sure I could trade it in but in my case the car is really negative because it resells terribly and on top of all those damn extra repairs last week it was a boost pressure sensor and the week before that the coolant pump for It's nothing about the turbos, I had 2-3 other things before. I can't even begin to understand how a car engine can be so damn terrible. I only speak about experiences and facts. I had great engines from BMW, but wow, this car has a serious problem and I just wanted to write about it to see other people's opinions 💭 Also, my timing chain was replaced in 2015 and that's what I found out too. Could be a problem with the ignition coil. It would have been nice if they had changed the coils to a different cylinder when injecting. N62 engines are very complex engines, so there are many concerns.
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| bella77 (384hp) | The only mistake you made was buying the car without an extended/aftermarket warranty. It would have saved you a lot of headaches. I couldn't imagine having mine without it.
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| bobert (900hp) | Yes, I went to the dealer because I only had a cylinder 8 misfire code. I remind you that this is the same injector that has already been replaced twice, once during the first recall and again about two months ago. So of course the dealer tells me that a turbo line is leaking and I need a new turbo? So how does replacing the turbo make my car run like shit at idle and under vacuum? My car doesn't even have problems with boosting lost codes or anything. This car is a horror story, I'm so glad it's like my 7th BMW and I know not everyone comes out like this but holy shit this shit is the kind of shit that makes someone never want to come back BMW to return, they are pure assholes and insult everyone
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| 69lover (106hp) | Yes, when I bought the car I thought since it wasn't a Lemon and my friend had a 750i there wouldn't be any problems, but now it's funny because he has 70,000 miles and it's giving him a headache now so he's trying , throw it away as quickly as possible. It sucks because that would definitely have been my favorite. Car, I love it, but damn, I'm always afraid of breaking it.
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| fresh2def (32hp) | Quote: Originally written by j3o3t3 Short story: Bought new 550i in 2011. Had fuel injector issues/multiple replacements for about 30,000 miles. The N63 service package is now completed at approximately 80,000 and 102,000 miles. When I started at about 90K I had the same symptoms as you - the dealer replaced both turbos. The problem was not fixed and my 5 year 100k warranty finally expired when I was in for service at 101k - complained again - this time the problem was correctly diagnosed: Right side turbo vacuum control valves/pressure transducers and lines. The left side was previously replaced under warranty. List price for repair = $2500. I have a great SA and complained heavily because these symptoms had started before my warranty expired. BMW agreed to a goodwill discount on my final cost of $900. The car runs perfectly now until it breaks again... Yeah, that sounds a bit like my headache, now they're telling me it's a broken turbo so I'm debating whether to fix it or not. Because just like you, I know that replacing the turbo won't help. I know it goes deeper than that and they just want to take my money so I call BMW North America and tell them to guarantee that my 8 cylinder will not misfire again if I do what I do should repair. Period, because I know that I know that there will still be misfires. This has nothing to do with my turbos, but with the engine
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| lady23 (400hp) | I will take it to my mechanic and see if we can replace these components ourselves in case the turbo is broken. I get an employee discount on all of the parts since my brother-in-law is the parts manager anyway.
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| 061287 (491hp) | Quote: Originally posted by M3_wannabe Okay guys, I've had a 2011 550i N63 for about a year and a half, drove it at 50k, now it's at 90k. Anyway, the car was running well at first, then around 70km I got to the point where I couldn't quite hold on even though the car wanted to push, but then it stopped with a drive train malfunction. /So bam made oil and the spark plugs didn't light, I took it to the mechanic, injector 8 is broken. I went to BMW they didn't even address the care package I had but they acted stupid so I wasted money getting it checked and then I called North America they have the case manager set up and of course they paid The injector needs to be repaired, mind you that was #8. $1800 fixed price but they paid for it. However, there were around 75,000. Now at 90,000 km I have a misfire on cylinder 8, I don't know why. I called North, got a case manager, and scheduled another appointment on Monday to figure out what was wrong. I haven't been able to get this beast on the road for over 20,000 miles, I drive it at speed and it handles perfectly, when you step on it the engine shakes, the exhaust smells strange and sounds really bad. By the way, I'm covered by the customer support package until February, mind you. What after? I'm being ripped off by BMW?? I've had 7 BMW 135i through I love BMW and stand by them, but I feel like I'm being cheated at the end of the day. I just hope they find something and fix it, if not I don't know what to do. I just wanted to write this post for the people out there who are still dealing with this issue. What do you mean I'm covered by the customer care package until February? Do you have a CPO guarantee? Or no guarantee. Was BMW North America willing to foot the bill or did they have to push them really hard? ?
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| 100386 (285hp) | Okay guys, I've had a 2011 550i N63 for about 1.5 years, drove it at 50k, now it's at 90k. Anyway, the car was running well at first, then around 70km I got to the point where I couldn't quite hold on even though the car wanted to push, but then it stopped with a drive train malfunction. /So bam made oil and the spark plugs didn't light, I took it to the mechanic, injector 8 is broken. I went to BMW they didn't even address the care package I had but they acted stupid so I wasted money getting it checked and then I called North America they have the case manager set up and of course they paid The injector needs to be repaired, mind you that was #8. $1800 fixed price but they paid for it. However, there were around 75,000. Now at 90,000 km I have a misfire on cylinder 8, I don't know why. I called North, got a case manager, and scheduled another appointment on Monday to figure out what was wrong. I haven't been able to get this beast on the road for over 20,000 miles, I drive it at speed and it handles perfectly, when you step on it the engine shakes, the exhaust smells strange and sounds really bad. By the way, I'm covered by the customer support package until February, mind you. What after? I'm being ripped off by BMW?? I've had 7 BMW 135i through I love BMW and stand by them, but I feel like I'm being cheated at the end of the day. I just hope they find something and fix it, if not I don't know what to do. I just wanted to write this post for the people out there who are still dealing with this issue.
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| 101283 (940hp) | Sure, I could trade it in, but in my case the car is really negative because it doesn't sell well and plus all those damn extra repairs the other week it was a boost pressure sensor, then the week before that the coolant pump for the turbos, that is Nothing before that I had 2-3 other things. I can't even begin to understand how a car engine can be so damn terrible. I only speak about experiences and facts. I had great engines from BMW, but wow, this car has a serious problem and I just wanted to write about it to see other people's opinions 💭 Also, my timing chain was replaced in 2015 and that's what I found out too.
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| spike10 (263hp) | Cut your losses and drop it.
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| fortis (661hp) | Regarding the misfire, have you tried replacing the coils? If I were you, I would refinance my car bill with a credit union like Penfed that offers the Route66 Guarantee. I recently had an expensive repair that was completed quickly and without any problems.
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| moustapha (58hp) | Short story: Bought new 550i in 2011. Had fuel injector issues/multiple replacements for about 30,000 miles. The N63 service package is now completed at approximately 80,000 and 102,000 miles. When I started at about 90K I had the same symptoms as you - the dealer replaced both turbos. The problem was not fixed and my 5 year 100k warranty finally expired when I was in for service at 101k - complained again - this time the problem was correctly diagnosed: Right side turbo vacuum control valves/pressure transducers and lines. The left side was previously replaced under warranty. List price for repair = $2500. I have a great SA and complained heavily because these symptoms had started before my warranty expired. BMW agreed to a goodwill discount on my final cost of $900. The car runs perfectly now until it breaks again...
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| 110692 (164hp) | Quote: Originally posted by M3_wannabe Sure I could trade it in but in my case the car is really negative because it resells terribly and on top of all those damn extra repairs last week it was a boost pressure sensor and the week before that the coolant pump for It's nothing about the turbos, I had 2-3 other things before. I can't even begin to understand how a car engine can be so damn terrible. I only speak about experiences and facts. I had great engines from BMW, but wow, this car has a serious problem and I just wanted to write about it to see other people's opinions 💭 Also, my timing chain was replaced in 2015 and that's what I found out too. Could be a problem with the ignition coil. It would have been nice if they had changed the coils to a different cylinder when injecting. N62 engines are very complex engines, so there are many concerns.
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| db2das1 (79hp) | The only mistake you made was buying the car without an extended/aftermarket warranty. It would have saved you a lot of headaches. I couldn't imagine having mine without it.
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| sexymom (420hp) | Yes, I went to the dealer because I only had a cylinder 8 misfire code. I remind you that this is the same injector that has already been replaced twice, once during the first recall and again about two months ago. So of course the dealer tells me that a turbo line is leaking and I need a new turbo? So how does replacing the turbo make my car run like shit at idle and under vacuum? My car doesn't even have problems with boosting lost codes or anything. This car is a horror story, I'm so glad it's like my 7th BMW and I know not everyone comes out like this but holy shit this shit is the kind of shit that makes someone never want to come back BMW to return, they are pure assholes and insult everyone
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| 208001 (17hp) | Yes, when I bought the car I thought since it wasn't a Lemon and my friend had a 750i there wouldn't be any problems, but now it's funny because he has 70,000 miles and it's giving him a headache now so he's trying , throw it away as quickly as possible. It sucks because that would definitely have been my favorite. Car, I love it, but damn, I'm always afraid of breaking it.
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| keesha (963hp) | Quote: Originally written by j3o3t3 Short story: Bought new 550i in 2011. Had fuel injector issues/multiple replacements for about 30,000 miles. The N63 service package is now completed at approximately 80,000 and 102,000 miles. When I started at about 90K I had the same symptoms as you - the dealer replaced both turbos. The problem was not fixed and my 5 year 100k warranty finally expired when I was in for service at 101k - complained again - this time the problem was correctly diagnosed: Right side turbo vacuum control valves/pressure transducers and lines. The left side was previously replaced under warranty. List price for repair = $2500. I have a great SA and complained heavily because these symptoms had started before my warranty expired. BMW agreed to a goodwill discount on my final cost of $900. The car runs perfectly now until it breaks again... Yeah, that sounds a bit like my headache, now they're telling me it's a broken turbo so I'm debating whether to fix it or not. Because just like you, I know that replacing the turbo won't help. I know it goes deeper than that and they just want to take my money so I call BMW North America and tell them to guarantee that my 8 cylinder will not misfire again if I do what I do should repair. Period, because I know that I know that there will still be misfires. This has nothing to do with my turbos, but with the engine
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| megryan (83hp) | I will take it to my mechanic and see if we can replace these components ourselves in case the turbo is broken. I get an employee discount on all of the parts since my brother-in-law is the parts manager anyway.
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| Ibmcgrath (784hp) | Quote: Originally posted by M3_wannabe Okay guys, I've had a 2011 550i N63 for about a year and a half, drove it at 50k, now it's at 90k. Anyway, the car was running well at first, then around 70km I got to the point where I couldn't quite hold on even though the car wanted to push, but then it stopped with a drive train malfunction. /So bam made oil and the spark plugs didn't light, I took it to the mechanic, injector 8 is broken. I went to BMW they didn't even address the care package I had but they acted stupid so I wasted money getting it checked and then I called North America they have the case manager set up and of course they paid The injector needs to be repaired, mind you that was #8. $1800 fixed price but they paid for it. However, there were around 75,000. Now at 90,000 km I have a misfire on cylinder 8, I don't know why. I called North, got a case manager, and scheduled another appointment on Monday to figure out what was wrong. I haven't been able to get this beast on the road for over 20,000 miles, I drive it at speed and it handles perfectly, when you step on it the engine shakes, the exhaust smells strange and sounds really bad. By the way, I'm covered by the customer support package until February, mind you. What after? I'm being ripped off by BMW?? I've had 7 BMW 135i through I love BMW and stand by them, but I feel like I'm being cheated at the end of the day. I just hope they find something and fix it, if not I don't know what to do. I just wanted to write this post for the people out there who are still dealing with this issue. What do you mean I'm covered by the customer care package until February? Do you have a CPO guarantee? Or no guarantee. Was BMW North America willing to foot the bill or did they have to push them really hard? ?
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| y6p67ftrqj (232hp) | I have a 2013 535i Can anyone confirm that the lug pattern and offset work on my car? **Wheels are all 19x8.5
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| 300388 (250hp) | Confirmed. These are exactly the same rims that an X-Drive F10 5 Series M Sport would be equipped with.
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| 090890 (808hp) | Excellent. Thanks.
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| dateme (223hp) | I have a 2013 535i Can anyone confirm that the lug pattern and offset work on my car? **Wheels are all 19x8.5
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| BrunoT (211hp) | Confirmed. These are exactly the same rims that an X-Drive F10 5 Series M Sport would be equipped with.
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| shadow44 (951hp) | Excellent. Thanks.
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| john06 (13hp) | Hello guys, I tried to close my cousin's trunk manually without knowing to press the button. I didn't put too much pressure because when I tried, my cousin caught me and I stopped. Then he could close it. The next day he tried to open his trunk but it stopped working. Does anyone know what could be wrong? I feel bad and try to make it right for him. If you have any advice, please help a brother. Thanks guys!
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| thor (205hp) | Your manual closing of the trunk should not have damaged the automatic mechanism in any way. I often close the trunk manually when I have a very full trunk (e.g. when camping) to make sure nothing inside gets damaged. Friends who didn't know about the electric locking function also did me a favor and closed the trunk manually, without any side effects.
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| makeme (637hp) | Quote: Originally posted by F30Allen Hi guys, I tried to manually close my cousin's trunk without knowing to press the button. I didn't put too much pressure because when I tried, my cousin caught me and I stopped. Then he could close it. The next day he tried to open his trunk but it stopped working. Does anyone know what could be wrong? I feel bad and try to make it right for him. If you have any advice, please help a brother. Thanks guys! Try to fully open the trunk to the maximum position, then press the auto close button to close. Do it 2-3 times. This usually fixes the problem.
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| second2 (117hp) | Quote: Originally posted by F30Allen Hi guys, I tried to manually close my cousin's trunk without knowing to press the button. I didn't put too much pressure because when I tried, my cousin caught me and I stopped. Then he could close it. The next day he tried to open his trunk but it stopped working. Does anyone know what could be wrong? I feel bad and try to make it right for him. If you have any advice, please help a brother. Thanks guys! Make sure the trunk lock switch in the console is disabled (so trunk opening is enabled). I would start here!
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| 0905 (781hp) | Strange that you should mention that. Two days ago, when I open the trunk hands-free, it only opens a quarter of the way and stops intermittently. I have to either open it manually or press the button in the trunk to get it to fully open.
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| 16071990 (550hp) | Quote: Originally written by SilverRevlis. Strange that you should mention that. Two days ago, when I open the trunk hands-free, it only opens a quarter of the way and stops intermittently. I have to either open it manually or press the button in the trunk to get it to fully open. Open it fully and then press the button to close it. You may have to do it a few times, but it should fix the problem.
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| www777 (417hp) | Quote: Originally posted by Meast Open it fully and then press the button to close it. You may have to do it a few times, but it should fix the problem. I did this yesterday hoping it would solve the problem today.
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| submit (465hp) | The trunk only opens a quarter again. I'm going to try something as part of me thinks it has to do with how close the park assist detects you are to an object. In fact, the trunk opens freely without hitting anything, but perhaps there is some logic that takes into account ALL objects detected by the sensors to protect the car from damage. I'll keep you updated.
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| 230996 (854hp) | Quote: Originally posted by SilverRevlis Trunk only opens a quarter again. I'm going to try something as part of me thinks it has to do with how close the park assist detects you are to an object. In fact, the trunk opens freely without hitting anything, but perhaps there is some logic that takes into account ALL objects detected by the sensors to protect the car from damage. I'll keep you updated. I pulled over in the back with red PDC and the trunk still opens fully.
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| dani12 (282hp) | Quote: Originally posted by SilverRevlis Trunk only opens a quarter again. I'm going to try something as part of me thinks it has to do with how close the park assist detects you are to an object. In fact, the trunk opens freely without hitting anything, but perhaps there is some logic that takes into account ALL objects detected by the sensors to protect the car from damage. I'll keep you updated. Is your car a MY16? There is a bulletin for this issue covering approximately the first half of the MY16 production year. The solution is to update the Istep level to newer software that has revised values for triggering the protection mechanism.
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| pussy15 (489hp) | Quote: Originally posted by claykin Quote: Originally posted by SilverRevlis Trunk only opens a quarter again. I'm going to try something as part of me thinks it has to do with how close the park assist detects you are to an object. In fact, the trunk opens freely without hitting anything, but perhaps there is some logic that takes into account ALL objects detected by the sensors to protect the car from damage. I'll keep you updated. Is your car a MY16? There is a bulletin for this issue covering approximately the first half of the MY16 production year. The solution is to update the Istep level to newer software that has revised values for triggering the protection mechanism. Wow, yes, it's a 16, but built 7/15.
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| stevelup (24hp) | Quote: Originally posted by SilverRevlis Wow, yes, it's a 16, but built in the 7/15. That would be an early construction...
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| aline1 (327hp) | On Friday she goes to the dealer for service...
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| professor1 (901hp) | As an update the dealer did a software update, the trunk works like a charm but strangely there is now a 1.5 second delay when you adjust a setting on your seats, your steering wheel, your mirrors or anything and the Setting Memory A chime will sound to let you know the setting has been made.
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| fuckyou18 (684hp) | Quote: Originally posted by SilverRevlis As an update the dealer did a software update, the trunk works like a charm but strangely now when you adjust a setting on your seats, your steering wheel, your mirrors or anything you get something and the memory Set There will be a 1.5 second delay before the chime sounds to let you know it has been set. This is intentional. I'm glad your trunk problem was fixed.
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| jesusislove (360hp) | Quote: Originally posted by SilverRevlis As an update the dealer did a software update, the trunk works like a charm but strangely now when you adjust a setting on your seats, your steering wheel, your mirrors or anything you get something and the memory Set There will be a 1.5 second delay before the chime sounds to let you know it has been set. Nice and forum comes to the rescue
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| 11111993 (452hp) | I had the same problem with my 2016 at times. I'll have the dealer pull the paperwork and see if this is part of the SB.
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| sports13 (410hp) | Hello guys, I tried to close my cousin's trunk manually without knowing to press the button. I didn't put too much pressure because when I tried, my cousin caught me and I stopped. Then he could close it. The next day he tried to open his trunk but it stopped working. Does anyone know what could be wrong? I feel bad and try to make it right for him. If you have any advice, please help a brother. Thanks guys!
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| emre123 (924hp) | Your manual closing of the trunk should not have damaged the automatic mechanism in any way. I often close the trunk manually when I have a very full trunk (e.g. when camping) to make sure nothing inside gets damaged. Friends who didn't know about the electric locking function also did me a favor and closed the trunk manually, without any side effects.
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| rjvgm.nth (913hp) | Quote: Originally posted by F30Allen Hi guys, I tried to manually close my cousin's trunk without knowing to press the button. I didn't put too much pressure because when I tried, my cousin caught me and I stopped. Then he could close it. The next day he tried to open his trunk but it stopped working. Does anyone know what could be wrong? I feel bad and try to make it right for him. If you have any advice, please help a brother. Thanks guys! Try to fully open the trunk to the maximum position, then press the auto close button to close. Do it 2-3 times. This usually fixes the problem.
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| koikoi (387hp) | Quote: Originally posted by F30Allen Hi guys, I tried to manually close my cousin's trunk without knowing to press the button. I didn't put too much pressure because when I tried, my cousin caught me and I stopped. Then he could close it. The next day he tried to open his trunk but it stopped working. Does anyone know what could be wrong? I feel bad and try to make it right for him. If you have any advice, please help a brother. Thanks guys! Make sure the trunk lock switch in the console is disabled (so trunk opening is enabled). I would start here!
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| jenny01 (884hp) | Strange that you should mention that. Two days ago, when I open the trunk hands-free, it only opens a quarter of the way and stops intermittently. I have to either open it manually or press the button in the trunk to get it to fully open.
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| 111196 (12hp) | Quote: Originally written by SilverRevlis. Strange that you should mention that. Two days ago, when I open the trunk hands-free, it only opens a quarter of the way and stops intermittently. I have to either open it manually or press the button in the trunk to get it to fully open. Open it fully and then press the button to close it. You may have to do it a few times, but it should fix the problem.
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| diamond8 (555hp) | Quote: Originally posted by Meast Open it fully and then press the button to close it. You may have to do it a few times, but it should fix the problem. I did this yesterday hoping it would solve the problem today.
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| shitfuck (654hp) | The trunk only opens a quarter again. I'm going to try something as part of me thinks it has to do with how close the park assist detects you are to an object. In fact, the trunk opens freely without hitting anything, but perhaps there is some logic that takes into account ALL objects detected by the sensors to protect the car from damage. I'll keep you updated.
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| Asshole1 (498hp) | Quote: Originally posted by SilverRevlis Trunk only opens a quarter again. I'm going to try something as part of me thinks it has to do with how close the park assist detects you are to an object. In fact, the trunk opens freely without hitting anything, but perhaps there is some logic that takes into account ALL objects detected by the sensors to protect the car from damage. I'll keep you updated. I pulled over in the back with red PDC and the trunk still opens fully.
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| 14101992 (939hp) | Quote: Originally posted by SilverRevlis Trunk only opens a quarter again. I'm going to try something as part of me thinks it has to do with how close the park assist detects you are to an object. In fact, the trunk opens freely without hitting anything, but perhaps there is some logic that takes into account ALL objects detected by the sensors to protect the car from damage. I'll keep you updated. Is your car a MY16? There is a bulletin for this issue covering approximately the first half of the MY16 production year. The solution is to update the Istep level to newer software that has revised values for triggering the protection mechanism.
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| alaska12 (662hp) | Quote: Originally posted by claykin Quote: Originally posted by SilverRevlis Trunk only opens a quarter again. I'm going to try something as part of me thinks it has to do with how close the park assist detects you are to an object. In fact, the trunk opens freely without hitting anything, but perhaps there is some logic that takes into account ALL objects detected by the sensors to protect the car from damage. I'll keep you updated. Is your car a MY16? There is a bulletin for this issue covering approximately the first half of the MY16 production year. The solution is to update the Istep level to newer software that has revised values for triggering the protection mechanism. Wow, yes, it's a 16, but built 7/15.
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| david09 (485hp) | Quote: Originally posted by SilverRevlis Wow, yes, it's a 16, but built in the 7/15. That would be an early construction...
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| 77887788 (476hp) | On Friday she goes to the dealer for service...
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| gretta (492hp) | As an update the dealer did a software update, the trunk works like a charm but strangely there is now a 1.5 second delay when you adjust a setting on your seats, your steering wheel, your mirrors or anything and the Setting Memory A chime will sound to let you know the setting has been made.
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| cheezy (287hp) | Quote: Originally posted by SilverRevlis As an update the dealer did a software update, the trunk works like a charm but strangely now when you adjust a setting on your seats, your steering wheel, your mirrors or anything you get something and the memory Set There will be a 1.5 second delay before the chime sounds to let you know it has been set. This is intentional. I'm glad your trunk problem was fixed.
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| 1boricua (104hp) | Quote: Originally posted by SilverRevlis As an update the dealer did a software update, the trunk works like a charm but strangely now when you adjust a setting on your seats, your steering wheel, your mirrors or anything you get something and the memory Set There will be a 1.5 second delay before the chime sounds to let you know it has been set. Nice and forum comes to the rescue
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| money88 (256hp) | I had the same problem with my 2016 at times. I'll have the dealer pull the paperwork and see if this is part of the SB.
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| laura69 (758hp) | I have a FBO intake E92 335i with 70k and a 2008 x5 4.8i with 126k 22" wheels aero kit. Both are in really good condition. I'm thinking of selling both and buying a F10 550i and upgrading the turbo etc. Since they can now finally achieve a large output of 650 HP. I can't decide whether I should just keep what I have or switch to a 550i m Sport. I could keep my payments the same (around 350) and modify the 550i with the equity from the other two cars. What would you do??
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| muthafucka (362hp) | Listen to your heart
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| makemoney (543hp) | I have purchased many different vehicles over the last decade. I miss her, but it's easy to remember the good qualities and dismiss the bad ones. Aside from a loss of FBO parts, both vehicles are available again. If you're bored, do it!
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| 1charles (862hp) | Quote: Originally written by dean87 Listen to your heart when He calls out to you.
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| Pdschulz (109hp) | If you're interested in drag racing, buy a 550xi.
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| j0shua (342hp) | I have a FBO intake E92 335i with 70k and a 2008 x5 4.8i with 126k 22" wheels aero kit. Both are in really good condition. I'm thinking about selling both and buying a F10 550i and upgrading the turbo etc. Since they can now finally achieve a large output of 650 HP. I can't decide whether I should just keep what I have or switch to a 550i m Sport. I could keep my payments the same (around 350) and modify the 550i with the equity from the other two cars. What would you do??
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| boarchicken (845hp) | Listen to your heart
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| olimpo (740hp) | I have purchased many different vehicles over the last decade. I miss her, but it's easy to remember the good qualities and dismiss the bad ones. Aside from a loss of FBO parts, both vehicles are available again. If you're bored, do it!
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| fsucoy (472hp) | Quote: Originally written by dean87 Listen to your heart when He calls out to you.
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| sadie12 (639hp) | If you're interested in drag racing, buy a 550xi.
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| jessem (907hp) | Hello dear members! So I haven't done much to my car even though I have all these parts sitting in my warehouse waiting to be installed e.g. B. Mtech rear bumper, Mtech side skirts, championship exhaust, DTM carbon diffuser, carbon tail extensions, carbon tips etc...anyone who was finally able to close a deal on a house my wife and I bought and one of my projects that I obviously want to do is the garage! In addition to my MANCAVE, I always wanted to have a workshop that covers the BMW! Since this is a 3.5 car garage, I'm paying particular attention to the garage floor. I was looking at these garage tiles that look like they just snap into place like legos but wanted to know if anyone has these and if they are any good or just junk? My other option would be to epoxy the floor. Please share your experiences with us or tell us if you have seen them first hand and if they seem to be quite durable.
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| chris2006 (989hp) | Nice house Check out some of the solutions on this Jag forum http://www.ftypeownersclub.co.uk/for...topic2201.html I'm thinking about getting an F Type next year so I'm in Creeping around the forum... Yes, I can't believe I'm thinking about parting ways with BMW after over 15 years of ownership!
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| maggie05 (198hp) | Congratulations on your new home!!
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| loveme5 (33hp) | Beautiful house! Congratulations! A buddy of mine has the tile floor in his garage and because he hasn't trimmed the ends to make sure it fits perfectly, it tends to shift around when he maneuvers his car in the garage. This is something to keep in mind if you decide to go the tile route. Cut the pieces so that they fit in your garage like a glove and don't move.
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| 7v8bv5TeoW (611hp) | I've been watching some YouTube videos in the last hour and it seems like there are quite a few manufacturers out there, from RaceDeck to Swisstrax to Sam's Club. The installation looks pretty easy as long as it is installed correctly. Cutting them to fit like a glove seems like a sure way to keep the tiles from moving. Cleaning looks pretty easy with a shop vacuum, but I'll look for more
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| 123690 (429hp) | Beautiful house! I wish I had the extra half garage? I'm assuming the door sticking out is a tandem? I'm looking for the same thing when I replace the lights in our 3-series wagon this spring.
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| 091984 (667hp) | Quote: Originally posted by SilverRevlis Beautiful house! I wish I had the extra half garage? I'm assuming the door sticking out is a tandem? I'm looking for the same thing when I replace the lights in our 3-series wagon this spring. Yes that's it! was lucky enough to find one.
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| m666666 (451hp) | I don't have any recommendations, but congratulations on the new house! Looks great
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| King Bimmer (858hp) | Beautiful house! congratulations.
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| ellison (945hp) | Thanks guys! Appreciate it! Currently the previous owner had epoxy for the flooring and it just wore off back onto concrete so I'm wondering what to do. So far Racedeck and Swisstrax are the right way. I'll see how my budget works out
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| poipoi (781hp) | Congratulations on the house! When I moved into my old house, we actually sprayed some paint and then sprinkled the same flakes on it. I can't even remember what it was called, but it was like a protective coating for garages.
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| sweets12 (857hp) | BEAUTIFUL house!!! CONGRATULATIONS!! I would seal the floor with epoxy. A friend made it and they couldn't be happier. It is chemical resistant and easy to clean. With tiles, liquid will seep under the tiles and you will have to pull it out to clean. Just mine $.02...
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| rock23 (435hp) | I had a race deck in our main garage (parking lot) for 2 cars in our last spot, they are currently in storage. I like her very much. It took a while and I found used tiles at CL, sales at Sears, and finally an overstock store had a pile at my place that I negotiated on. I think I charged $1.25 per square foot when everything was finished. And I can take it with me when I move, epoxy resin doesn't transplant well. Tiles also give you the opportunity to be artistic. I'll post pictures when I'm not on my phone. Congratulations on the house!! Frosted
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| stopit (922hp) | Quote: Originally posted by ezaircon4jc BEAUTIFUL house!!! CONGRATULATIONS!! I would seal the floor with epoxy. A friend made it and they couldn't be happier. It is chemical resistant and easy to clean. With tiles, liquid will seep under the tiles and you will have to pull it out to clean. Only my $0.02 epoxy looks good, but it seems like a lot of people who had epoxy switched to garage tile and loved it. Quote: Originally posted by SchillerM. I had a race deck in our main garage (parking lot) for 2 cars in our last spot, they are currently in storage. I like her very much. It took a while and I found used tiles at CL, sales at Sears, and finally an overstock store had a pile at my place that I negotiated on. I think I charged $1.25 per square foot when everything was finished. And I can take it with me when I move, epoxy resin doesn't transplant well. Tiles also give you the opportunity to be artistic. I'll post pictures when I'm not on my phone. Congratulations on the house!! Matt How was the durability of the Race Deck? Was it slippery when wet? Is it more rubber or plastic? Quote: Originally written by Ickdeep Congratulations on the house! When I moved into my old house, we actually sprayed some paint and then sprinkled the same flakes on it. I can't even remember what it was called, but it was like a protective coating for garages. The stuff you're talking about sounds kind of like the stuff we use in our pump rooms. It's OK, but not as durable as pushing heavy carts and equipment as it cuts the epoxy or whatever badly
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| ///M3 CSL (116hp) | Beautiful house, congratulations! My brother has this http://www.homedepot.com/p/HDX-7-5-f...14MB/205442047 in his garage and it holds up well.
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| wobuzhidao (536hp) | Quote: Originally written by lsturbointeg How was the durability of the Race Deck? Was it slippery when wet? Is it more rubber or plastic? It is made of plastic but has a diamond coating. The COINS become slippery, the diamonds seem fine. We had it in San Diego, so not a really wet climate. You can call Race Deck and ask for a few samples. I did that and got some colors and the coin. Drain, diamond options (I think it was 4 or 5 squares). Gave me a good idea of what to expect, I dampened them, rubbed them with oil and wiped them etc. They expand in the heat, so depending on how the sun hits the garage and how often the door is opened, there may be some kinks. I believe they recommend installing it hot so that everything on top holds everything in place. I didn't do it all at once, had a two tile gap on the edge for a while and never shifted while driving/parking in the garage. Go to Garage Journal, there is a flooring sub-forum, lots of information about what people have done, and of course more questions will probably arise from this. lol Pink tiles were markers for the wheels and side stand of my wife's bike. No problems with notches or anything like that when you do something like that.
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| 7070 (513hp) | Hello everyone, the car is a 2012 BMW 535i xDrive (N55). It is around 55,000 km or 34,000 miles. I haven't driven the car in over a week, I just turned it on and now I see a low engine coolant warning. Is this common and should I be concerned? I'm not sure if I should have the car towed or if I can drive it to the dealer.
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| oneluv1 (992hp) | This looks really good! So your black stone is the coin and the gray one is the diamond? I can't wait to choose mine!
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| kirsty1 (9hp) | When you open the hood you will see a container with the coolant level in it. Why don't you take a look in there and see how low it is? If it's dropped just a little, fill it up and you're ready to go. If it's empty, the coolant has gone somewhere and you need to get someone to look at it.
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| sergserg (452hp) | Quote: Originally written by The Beast Nice house Check out some of the solutions on this Jag forum http://www.ftypeownersclub.co.uk/for...topic2201.html I'm thinking about getting a F- next year Type to get, so I waited for the forum... Yes, I can't believe that after over 15 years as an owner I'm thinking about parting ways with BMW! Interesting choice – I checked out F-Type myself. I bet you could get an S coupe for under $60,000 next spring.
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| lucky08 (977hp) | Hello Dandle, thanks for your advice. I opened the hood and looked in the coolant reservoir. It's well below the minimum mark, but I can't say exactly how low it is since it's dark there. I shined a flashlight into it, but it's still hard to see. Do you think I should have it towed or can I drive it to the dealer???
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| dakota99 (78hp) | Quote: Originally posted by lsturbointeg This looks really good! So your black stone is the coin and the gray one is the diamond? I can't wait to choose mine! Sorry, no, it's all Diamond. It's actually light and dark gray. In the sample pack I got I chose a white coin, a light gray and dark gray diamond and a gray drain, see picture below of some of these together. The other picture is intended to show the light/dark comparisons. Doesn't show dust and dirt as much as black seems to. Somewhere in the mix I also have a black period. I picked up the sample pack and a few copies when Sears was selling them individually and then decided on my picks.
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| alex2002 (544hp) | It's probably just diminished a little over time. Try adding some water (about half a pint). This won't be enough to dilute the coolant, so don't worry about it.
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| olufemi (32hp) | Very nice! I'm looking for all black with gray edges
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| 560064 (612hp) | Quote: Originally written by Dandle. It's probably just diminished a little over time. Try adding some water (about half a pint). This won't be enough to dilute the coolant, so don't worry about it. distilled water*
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| cutiepie13 (439hp) | Quote: Originally posted by Quicksilv3r. Interesting choice – I checked out F-Type myself. I bet you could get an S coupe for under $60,000 next spring. Yes, I know I've always hated Jags, but the new designs are much better. In my opinion, the F-Type coupe with a panoramic roof is stunningly beautiful. I heard one drive past me the other day and it must have had the sports exhaust because it sounded fantastic! Here in the UK you can get a well-equipped, lightly used model for £45,000-50,000... I'll just have to wait for some points to be taken off my license next year to make the insurance bearable
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| jannaarhipova (414hp) | Tap water is fine. There is a myth on the internet that distilled water is needed in the cooling system. The system is sealed and never boils, so minerals in tap water are not a problem. The coolant is designed for use with tap water.
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| Nate@IND (676hp) | Use epoxy paint.
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| 020378 (664hp) | With the engine cold, some coolant was added to the maximum line and the car appears to be fine. Hasn't issued any warnings yet. *fingers crossed*
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| blink1 (297hp) | Hello dear members! So I haven't done much to my car even though I have all these parts sitting in my warehouse waiting to be installed e.g. B. Mtech rear bumper, Mtech side skirts, championship exhaust, DTM carbon diffuser, carbon tail extensions, carbon tips etc...anyone who was finally able to close a deal on a house my wife and I bought and one of my projects that I obviously want to do is the garage! In addition to my MANCAVE, I always wanted to have a workshop that covers the BMW! Since this is a 3.5 car garage, I'm paying particular attention to the garage floor. I was looking at these garage tiles that look like they just snap into place like legos but wanted to know if anyone has these and if they are any good or just junk? My other option would be to epoxy the floor. Please share your experiences with us or tell us if you have seen them first hand and if they seem to be quite durable.
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| moremore (447hp) | Quote: Originally posted by Dandle Tap water is fine. There is a myth on the internet that distilled water is needed in the cooling system. The system is sealed and never boils, so minerals in tap water are not a problem. The coolant is designed for use with tap water. Although drinking water is fine in most cases, water properties vary widely in terms of mineral content, pH, hardness, etc. Where I live the water is so hard that when I descale the water heater I literally remove a bucket of sediment. There is no way I would put this in my cooler. I would tell the OP to watch for leaks - in 5 years my coolant level had dropped about 2mm from its peak, so I would be cautious.
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| trademark (140hp) | Nice house Check out some of the solutions on this Jag forum http://www.ftypeownersclub.co.uk/for...topic2201.html I'm thinking about getting an F Type next year so I'm in Creeping around the forum... Yes, I can't believe I'm thinking about parting ways with BMW after over 15 years of ownership!
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| livestrong (501hp) | Quote: Originally written by hunginator Hello everyone, the car is a 2012 BMW 535i xDrive (N55). It is around 55,000 km or 34,000 miles. I haven't driven the car in over a week, I just turned it on and now I see a low engine coolant warning. Is this common and should I be concerned? I'm not sure if I should have the car towed or if I can drive it to the dealer. If you have a 550 engine (N63), look at the very top of the turbo lines for small leaks. You need to lift the engine cover.
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| july123 (420hp) | Congratulations on your new home!!
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| sapito (772hp) | Ah, no. I have the turbo inline 6 N55 engine. I added coolant last week and the car gave me no warnings. I'll keep an eye on it to make sure there's nothing actually wrong with the car. *fingers crossed*
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| colnago (649hp) | Beautiful house! Congratulations! A buddy of mine has the tile floor in his garage and because he hasn't trimmed the ends to make sure it fits perfectly, it tends to shift around when he maneuvers his car in the garage. This is something to keep in mind if you decide to go the tile route. Cut the pieces so that they fit in your garage like a glove and don't move.
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