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| 140983 (321hp) | It appears that the 2011 n55 PWG engine shows up more often than the EWG when searching for N55 engine failures. Maybe something in common is the cause. To update: If anyone follows me, I see fluctuations in low pressure fuel pressures and RPM when I connect a gauge. I think I have a weak LPFP or the screen is clogged from sitting in the car for 6 months. I'll do a compression test before I spend too much money on parts.
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| church123 (138hp) | Quote: Originally posted by Cvx5832 I'm curious about another part of the topic. Does this happen often? Admittedly, I only drive around this site occasionally, but this appears to be the first time I've heard of a bug like this on the N55. The early N55 had mysterious bugs
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| memere (624hp) | Thanks. I definitely missed it completely.
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| billybob12 (346hp) | I've been lurking on this site for years but hope my experience with this F10 can help someone. I bought a 2011 BMW 535i xdrive 2 months ago. The car didn't run and the seller said he thought the engine was broken. I negotiated the price accordingly. When the tow truck arrived with my new project, I took a closer look and lo and behold, there was a huge hole in the block. I ordered and installed a used engine with similar mileage. Once I was done and the oil was prepped, I fired it up and it sounded great. However, after a few test drives it became apparent that there was a misfire and somewhat long cranking times. The car would not illuminate an engine light and there are no outstanding codes. Idling is rough at times and the misfires are most noticeable when reaching operating temperature and under load. So far I have replaced spark plugs, coils and injectors, swapped HPFP for a good used n54, replaced Vanos solenoids and cleaned the intake valve (heavy carbon deposits). After this work the long cranking times are gone, but the misfires are still there. I tried to gain access to ista without success. But I have a generic OBD scanner that has some features. I can monitor fuel pressures (HP), fuel trims, lambdas, MAF, MAP, ECT, IAT, etc. After a few weeks there is still no engine light or even pending codes. Something tells me this may have been the cause of the first engine failure, which makes me wonder if it could be an LPFP or a DME issue. The plan for tomorrow is to monitor the low pressure side with a gauge and do a road test. I'm hoping to see some pressure variations related to the misfire, but I'm not very optimistic. We welcome every thought here. I've attached pictures of the massacre, but that doesn't do it justice. The rod went through the oil pan, took out the passenger engine mount, and punched a hole in the differential!
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| 1brian (712hp) | Curious about the “yet other” part of the topic. Does this happen often? Admittedly, I only drive around this side occasionally, but this appears to be the first time I've heard of such a fault on the north side55.
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| handoi (481hp) | It appears that the 2011 n55 PWG engine shows up more often than the EWG when searching for N55 engine failures. Maybe something in common is the cause. To update: If anyone follows me, I see fluctuations in low pressure fuel pressures and RPM when I connect a gauge. I think I have a weak LPFP or the screen is clogged from sitting in the car for 6 months. I'll do a compression test before I spend too much money on parts.
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| yl (310hp) | Quote: Originally posted by Cvx5832 I'm curious about another part of the topic. Does this happen often? Admittedly, I only drive around this site occasionally, but this appears to be the first time I've heard of a bug like this on the N55. The early N55 had mysterious bugs
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| elmer1 (619hp) | Thanks. I definitely missed it completely.
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| pesciolino (398hp) | Hello everyone, according to the thread title, is this a problem with cars? Thanks.
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| nick14 (156hp) | Yes, the transition to the updated design took place around February 2015.
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| 123456789abcd (629hp) | OK, it looks like the chain needs to be replaced. Thanks for the info.
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| bushido1 (996hp) | Hello everyone, according to the thread title, is this a problem with cars? Thanks.
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| hunter44 (305hp) | Yes, the transition to the updated design took place around February 2015.
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| heynow (192hp) | OK, it looks like the chain needs replacing. Thanks for the info.
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| Bonez2u (987hp) | Hello friends. Does anyone know the placement of the M emblem on the fenders of the BMW F10 LCI? Be grateful if someone has the exact measurements.
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| marmite1 (183hp) | Hello friends. Does anyone know the placement of the M emblem on the fenders of the BMW F10 LCI? Be grateful if someone has the exact measurements.
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| merrill1 (691hp) | That's why I tried to diagnose a vibration. It mostly occurs between 70 and 80 mph, with the worst at around 75 mph. I bought 4 new Michelin tires. When I bought it I was told that both wheels on the right side were bent so I replaced them with brand new wheels. The tires were all rebalanced and put on the road. I think the road forces were 9, 11, 14 and 18. That's the strange thing: at an outside temperature of 65-70 degrees the car almost doesn't vibrate. When it's 85-95 outside it shakes a lot. Any ideas? The car has 88,000 miles.
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| jianfei000 (846hp) | A weight may have come loose, but vibration at a certain speed is usually a balancing problem. Assuming you don't have spacers?
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| andrew520d (382hp) | There are numerous threads on this topic – searching for vibration. The problem seems very difficult to identify and solve. My car suffers from the same problem - vibrations at around 72 to 75 mph. I decided to live with it and ride at 70 or 78 MPH.
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| 080688 (722hp) | No spacers, factory 351m wheels and factory tires. It's possible a weight was thrown, but they've been rebalanced three times so far. After a certain speed my problems don't go away, they just become less noticeable but are still there otherwise I would be doing the same thing lol.
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| 21101984 (803hp) | Flip the front and rear tires over. Does the vibration pattern change? If so, it's the wheel or tire. Good luck.
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| schneider1 (912hp) | Quote: Originally written by ChiNorm. Drop the front and rear tires. Does the vibration pattern change? If so, it's the wheel or tire. Good luck. I wish I could. They are staggered.
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| smile14 (101hp) | Take a look at your front thrust arms and consider replacing them. The bushings break quickly and make the problem worse. Also look for a highly recommended wheel shop to rebalance the wheel. I had to go to three different repair shops to finally get my wheels properly balanced and fix my vibration problem.
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| kayla08 (621hp) | Quote: Originally posted by SWFLf10 Take a look at your front thrust arms and consider replacing them. The bushings break quickly and make the problem worse. Also look for a highly recommended wheel shop to rebalance the wheel. I had to go to three different repair shops to finally get my wheels properly balanced and fix my vibration problem. I'll check if they have game. I have an appointment with the dealer about this, but unfortunately it can't happen until mid-September. My other local shops don't bother with replacing parts because they say they can't align BMWs.
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| 2sexy4you (442hp) | I have a strange vibration that is most noticeable at 75-80 mph AND especially in 8th gear where it is most noticeable, and especially on slight inclines. It is almost a resonant/repeating vibration. I have already straightened the wheels and replaced the control arms, balanced/rotated them and replaced rear differential bearings. The transmission oil was also changed, but so far it has had no effect..
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| yadira1 (791hp) | So I shopped around a bit. I jacked up the front of the car and can't seem to find any play at all. What I noticed is that when I turn the wheel I can visibly see the top of the tire moving up and down as it turns. I know a minor puncture is normal, but it seems excessive to me. I ordered a new tire and will replace it to see if anything improves. This particular tire had a road force of 39, I rotated it 180 degrees and it dropped from 39 to 18 (other tires had 9, 11 and 14). I have to spend a month trying it myself before the dealer can take a look at it.
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| 260687 (221hp) | Quote: Originally posted by smokinu454 I wish I could. They are staggered. Hit back and forth and see if anything changes.
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| islanders (413hp) | A similar vibration was resolved on my 535i by replacing the engine mounts. The old ones weren't broken down or visibly damaged, but the car drove much smoother at highway speeds. After all, these were new Lemförder arms, new 434M wheels, Michelin tires, etc. Drives great now, even with a cracked differential mount and some small cracks in the flex disks. These are next on the list.
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| 6666661 (317hp) | Quote: Originally posted by smokinu454 So I did a bit of digging around. I jacked up the front of the car and can't seem to find any play at all. What I noticed is that when I turn the wheel I can visibly see the top of the tire moving up and down as it turns. I know a minor puncture is normal, but it seems excessive to me. I ordered a new tire and will replace it to see if anything improves. This particular tire had a road force of 39, I rotated it 180 degrees and it dropped from 39 to 18 (other tires had 9, 11 and 14). I have to spend a month trying it myself before the dealer can take a look at it. Which tire brand? I tracked my tail when I was convinced it was a balance issue. The unscrewed tire was out of round compared to when it was new, and worse, it even had flat spots after not being used for several days.
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| TheUtahX5M (476hp) | Quote: Originally written by B-Buster. A similar vibration in my 535i was resolved by replacing the engine mounts. The old ones weren't broken down or visibly damaged, but the car drove much smoother at highway speeds. After all, these were new Lemförder arms, new 434M wheels, Michelin tires, etc. Drives great now, even with a cracked differential mount and some small cracks in the flex disks. These are next on the list. I have a torn center differential mount. Do you know what effect it has on driving? I'm wondering when I should change it.
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| 080281 (556hp) | I had a few issues that resulted in my higher speed vibration. One was an out of round wheel. New tension arms also helped and the final improvement was new struts/springs. For a 9-year-old car, it now drives reasonably smoothly, although unfortunately not perfectly.
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| ester (563hp) | Well, I have an appointment with the dealer between 2 p.m. and 9 a.m. and hope that I can solve the problem by then. Update: I've noticed that the longer I'm out and the hotter it is outside, the more it vibrates. I lowered the tire pressure to 29 psi and it rides smoothly until I've been driving for a while and the pressure goes back up to about 33 psi. Took this information to the tire shop and they agreed to replace all four tires free of charge (through the Michelin Promise Plan/60 Day Guarantee). Hopefully this will fix my problem, I'm just waiting for the tires to arrive now.
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| cameron06 (565hp) | I have the same problem. Please keep us updated.
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| stalkerb84 (477hp) | Make sure the hub is clean even when installing the wheels. The alignment is good?
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| myspace93 (848hp) | That's why I tried to diagnose a vibration. It mostly occurs between 70 and 80 mph, with the worst at around 75 mph. I bought 4 new Michelin tires. When I bought it I was told that both wheels on the right side were bent so I replaced them with brand new wheels. The tires were all rebalanced and put on the road. I think the road forces were 9, 11, 14 and 18. That's the strange thing: at an outside temperature of 65-70 degrees the car almost doesn't vibrate. When it's 85-95 outside it shakes a lot. Any ideas? The car has 88,000 miles.
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| camaleon (132hp) | A weight may have come loose, but vibration at a certain speed is usually a balancing problem. Assuming you don't have spacers?
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| 199308 (875hp) | There are numerous threads on this topic – searching for vibration. The problem seems very difficult to identify and solve. My car suffers from the same problem - vibrations at around 72 to 75 mph. I decided to live with it and ride at 70 or 78 MPH.
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| george4 (319hp) | No spacers, factory 351m wheels and factory tires. It's possible a weight was thrown, but they've been rebalanced three times so far. After a certain speed my problems don't go away, they just become less noticeable but are still there otherwise I would be doing the same thing lol.
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| keines (501hp) | Flip the front and rear tires over. Does the vibration pattern change? If so, it's the wheel or tire. Good luck.
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| password67 (897hp) | Quote: Originally written by ChiNorm. Drop the front and rear tires. Does the vibration pattern change? If so, it's the wheel or tire. Good luck. I wish I could. They are staggered.
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| folletto (268hp) | Take a look at your front thrust arms and consider replacing them. The bushings break quickly and make the problem worse. Also look for a highly recommended wheel shop to rebalance the wheel. I had to go to three different repair shops to finally get my wheels properly balanced and fix my vibration problem.
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| snoopy17 (710hp) | Quote: Originally posted by SWFLf10 Take a look at your front thrust arms and consider replacing them. The bushings break quickly and make the problem worse. Also look for a highly recommended wheel shop to rebalance the wheel. I had to go to three different repair shops to finally get my wheels properly balanced and fix my vibration problem. I'll check if they have game. I have an appointment with the dealer about this, but unfortunately it can't happen until mid-September. My other local shops don't bother with replacing parts because they say they can't align BMWs.
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| parool (164hp) | I have a strange vibration that is most noticeable at 75-80 mph AND especially in 8th gear where it is most noticeable, and especially on slight inclines. It is almost a resonant/repeating vibration. I have already straightened the wheels and replaced the control arms, balanced/rotated them and replaced rear differential bearings. The transmission oil was also changed, but so far it has had no effect..
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| kaykay (997hp) | So I shopped around a bit. I jacked up the front of the car and can't seem to find any play at all. What I noticed is that when I turn the wheel I can visibly see the top of the tire moving up and down as it turns. I know a minor puncture is normal, but it seems excessive to me. I ordered a new tire and will replace it to see if anything improves. This particular tire had a road force of 39, I rotated it 180 degrees on the wheel and it dropped from 39 to 18 (other tires had 9, 11 and 14). I have to spend a month trying it myself before the dealer can take a look at it.
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| cello1 (473hp) | Quote: Originally posted by smokinu454 I wish I could. They are staggered. Hit back and forth and see if anything changes.
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| Cowboys1 (455hp) | A similar vibration was resolved on my 535i by replacing the engine mounts. The old ones weren't broken down or visibly damaged, but the car drove much smoother at highway speeds. After all, these were new Lemförder arms, new 434M wheels, Michelin tires, etc. Drives great now, even with a cracked differential mount and some small cracks in the flex disks. These are next on the list.
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| direct1 (329hp) | Quote: Originally posted by smokinu454 So I did a bit of digging around. I jacked up the front of the car and can't seem to find any play at all. What I noticed is that when I turn the wheel I can visibly see the top of the tire moving up and down as it turns. I know a minor puncture is normal, but it seems excessive to me. I ordered a new tire and will replace it to see if anything improves. This particular tire had a road force of 39, I rotated it 180 degrees and it dropped from 39 to 18 (other tires had 9, 11 and 14). I have to spend a month trying it myself before the dealer can take a look at it. Which tire brand? I tracked my tail when I was convinced it was a balance issue. The unscrewed tire was out of round compared to when it was new, and worse, it even had flat spots after not being used for several days.
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| january15 (65hp) | Quote: Originally written by B-Buster. A similar vibration in my 535i was resolved by replacing the engine mounts. The old ones weren't broken down or visibly damaged, but the car drove much smoother at highway speeds. After all, these were new Lemförder arms, new 434M wheels, Michelin tires, etc. Drives great now, even with a cracked differential mount and some small cracks in the flex disks. These are next on the list. I have a torn center differential mount. Do you know what effect it has on driving? I'm wondering when I should change it.
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| durand (844hp) | I had a few issues that resulted in my higher speed vibration. One was an out of round wheel. New tension arms also helped and the final improvement was new struts/springs. For a 9-year-old car, it now drives reasonably smoothly, although unfortunately not perfectly.
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| Vlaze (871hp) | Well, I have an appointment with the dealer between 2 p.m. and 9 a.m. and hope that I can solve the problem by then. Update: I've noticed that the longer I'm out and the hotter it is outside, the more it vibrates. I lowered the tire pressure to 29 psi and it rides smoothly until I've been driving for a while and the pressure goes back up to about 33 psi. Took this information to the tire shop and they agreed to replace all four tires free of charge (through the Michelin Promise Plan/60 Day Guarantee). Hopefully this will fix my problem, I'm just waiting for the tires to arrive now.
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| glass (331hp) | I have the same problem. Please keep us updated.
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| MG530F10 (946hp) | Make sure the hub is clean even when installing the wheels. The alignment is good?
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| iris (601hp) | Hello, I'm thinking about upgrading the taillights and headlights on my pre-LCI F10, but there's a problem. I often travel back and forth between two countries and the country where the car is registered is very strict when it comes to modifications, especially when it comes to the lighting system. If a police officer sees you with modified lights, the car will be impounded immediately. Are there OEM options for the F10? Or taillights/headlights with TÜV approval? If I am stopped, I need to be able to prove that the parts are OEM or have TÜV certification. I've looked at the DEPO/White Line taillights and some people say they are original parts and that they came with some rare F10 options, but there is no clear indication that they are original parts ...so I need your help to make my baby stand out. Thanks
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| sexme69 (355hp) | Hello, I'm thinking about upgrading the taillights and headlights on my pre-LCI F10, but there's a problem. I often travel back and forth between two countries and the country where the car is registered is very strict when it comes to modifications, especially when it comes to the lighting system. If a police officer sees you with modified lights, the car will be impounded immediately. Are there OEM options for the F10? Or taillights/headlights with TÜV approval? If I am stopped, I need to be able to prove that the parts are OEM or have TÜV certification. I've looked at the DEPO/White Line taillights and some people say they are original parts and that they came with some rare F10 options, but there is no clear indication that they are original parts ...so I need your help to make my baby stand out. Thanks
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| carbonf25 (852hp) | What's up folks, on my N63 with 53,000 miles the DTML kicks in about every few weeks for a cold start. The camshaft position is set too late (bank 2). I want to replace both A and B while I'm there. I took them out and cleaned them with brake cleaner. I thought I had cracked the code and fixed it, but nope, about a few weeks later the code came back. I have purchased aftermarket models and tried to install them but they won't go in. They probably need a quarter inch of space for them to sit flush, but they don't want to go in and snap into place. I got the old ones and they fit like butter and click all the way. I swapped the o-rings from the old ones to the new ones and it's the same thing, they don't want to sit flush. So I ended up buying OEM solenoids thinking they would be a flush mount, but what the heck, they're the same thing. They do NOT want to go in. I grab the old ones and they go in without hesitation. Any opinions or insights?
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| canucks (9hp) | What's up folks, on my N63 with 53,000 miles the DTML kicks in about every few weeks for a cold start. The camshaft position is set too late (bank 2). I want to replace both A and B while I'm there. I took them out and cleaned them with brake cleaner. I thought I had cracked the code and fixed it, but nope, about a few weeks later the code came back. I have purchased aftermarket models and tried to install them but they won't go in. They probably need a quarter inch of space for them to sit flush, but they don't want to go in and snap into place. I got the old ones and they fit like butter and click all the way. I swapped the o-rings from the old ones to the new ones and it's the same thing, they don't want to sit flush. So I ended up buying OEM solenoids thinking they would be a flush mount, but what the heck, they're the same thing. They do NOT want to go in. I grab the old ones and they go in without hesitation. Any opinions or insights?
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| 02071990 (73hp) | My wife was driving the car home from work and the driver's side front steering wheel started working. It had been making noises for some time and finally started to really rattle. She hobbled it about five miles to our house and I set about replacing the driver's side front axle assembly. Pretty routine job. Disconnected the control arms, swung the hub assembly to the side and pulled out the axle. Did it the other way around and put it back together. When you start the vehicle again, the power steering is defective. At idle there appears to be no power steering. The car is easy to drive, although the steering wheel is a little harder to turn. The axle noise has disappeared and the car drives smoothly. The yellow steering wheel symbol lights up on the dashboard and “Steer, drive moderately” is displayed. The idrive screen displays “Unable to continue: contact service center.” There is sufficient power steering fluid. The pump was working fine before I replaced the axle. As far as I know, I didn't do anything that should have affected the power steering. What am I missing here? Does anything need to be reset when removing the axle from the hub or pivoting the hub from the control arms? It seems a strange coincidence that the power steering occurs immediately after the axle. Thank you for your help.
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| welc0me (696hp) | My wife was driving the car home from work and the driver's side front steering wheel started working. It had been making noises for some time and finally started to really rattle. She hobbled it about five miles to our house and I set about replacing the driver's side front axle assembly. Pretty routine job. Disconnected the control arms, swung the hub assembly to the side and pulled out the axle. Did it the other way around and put it back together. When you start the vehicle again, the power steering is defective. At idle there appears to be no power steering. The car is easy to drive, although the steering wheel is a little harder to turn. The axle noise has disappeared and the car drives smoothly. The yellow steering wheel symbol lights up on the dashboard and “Steer, drive moderately” is displayed. The idrive screen displays “Can continue driving”: Contact the service center. There is sufficient power steering fluid. The pump was working fine before I replaced the axle. As far as I know, I didn't do anything that should have affected the power steering. What am I missing here? Does anything need to be reset when removing the axle from the hub or pivoting the hub from the control arms? It seems a strange coincidence that the power steering occurs immediately after the axle. Thank you for your help.
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| antonio11 (360hp) | Hello, I hope someone can direct me below. Yesterday I tried to update the maps from Road Map Europe Map Move2014-1 to Europe Map Move West 2022 with FSC code generated via VIN, but the code didn't work. However, I noticed that when using the satellite navigation device, the system now asks me on IDrive for an activation code to start the satellite navigation device. I don't have the original activation code for the satellite navigation system. Please help.
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| x5mmm (372hp) | Quote: Originally posted by rishabh088 Hello, I hope someone can direct me below. Yesterday I tried to update the maps from Road Map Europe Map Move2014-1 to Europe Map Move West 2022 with FSC code generated via VIN, but the code didn't work. However, I noticed that when using the satellite navigation device, the system now asks me on IDrive for an activation code to start the satellite navigation device. I don't have the original activation code for the satellite navigation system. Please help. You might have better luck with this topic on Facebook. There are many groups with very helpful people.
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| 12051996 (355hp) | Quote: Originally posted by rishabh088 Hello, I hope someone can direct me below. Yesterday I tried to update the maps from Road Map Europe Map Move2014-1 to Europe Map Move West 2022 with FSC code generated via VIN, but the code didn't work. However, I noticed that when using the satellite navigation device, the system now asks me on IDrive for an activation code to start the satellite navigation device. I don't have the original activation code for the satellite navigation system. Please help. I got a lifetime FSC license on eBay for about $25. I have no experience with code generators.
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| pookie10 (927hp) | Quote: Originally posted by rishabh088 Hello, I hope someone can direct me below. Yesterday I tried to update the maps from Road Map Europe Map Move2014-1 to Europe Map Move West 2022 with FSC code generated via VIN, but the code didn't work. However, I noticed that when using the satellite navigation device, the system now asks me on IDrive for an activation code to start the satellite navigation device. I don't have the original activation code for the satellite navigation system. Please help. If you can retrieve your FSC from your car using e-sys, I can help you generate a lifetime FSC code (NBT/CIC).)
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| 170283 (234hp) | Hello, I hope someone can direct me below. Yesterday I tried to update the maps from Road Map Europe Map Move2014-1 to Europe Map Move West 2022 with FSC code generated via VIN, but the code didn't work. However, I noticed that when using the satellite navigation device, the system now asks me on IDrive for an activation code to start the satellite navigation device. I don't have the original activation code for the satellite navigation system. Please help.
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| 15031985 (902hp) | Quote: Originally posted by rishabh088 Hello, I hope someone can direct me below. Yesterday I tried to update the maps from Road Map Europe Map Move2014-1 to Europe Map Move West 2022 with FSC code generated via VIN, but the code didn't work. However, I noticed that when using the satellite navigation device, the system now asks me on IDrive for an activation code to start the satellite navigation device. I don't have the original activation code for the satellite navigation system. Please help. You might have better luck with this topic on Facebook. There are many groups with very helpful people.
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| aa123321 (642hp) | Quote: Originally posted by rishabh088 Hello, I hope someone can direct me below. Yesterday I tried to update the maps from Road Map Europe Map Move2014-1 to Europe Map Move West 2022 with FSC code generated via VIN, but the code didn't work. However, I noticed that when using the satellite navigation device, the system now asks me on IDrive for an activation code to start the satellite navigation device. I don't have the original activation code for the satellite navigation system. Please help. I got a lifetime FSC license on eBay for about $25. I have no experience with code generators.
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| luckygirl1 (15hp) | Quote: Originally posted by rishabh088 Hello, I hope someone can direct me below. Yesterday I tried to update the maps from Road Map Europe Map Move2014-1 to Europe Map Move West 2022 with FSC code generated via VIN, but the code didn't work. However, when using the satellite navigation system on IDrive, I noticed that the system asks me for an activation code to start the satellite navigation system. I don't have the original activation code for the satellite navigation system. Please help. If you can retrieve your FSC from your car using e-sys, I can help you generate a lifetime FSC code (NBT/CIC).)
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| fuck99 (563hp) | Does anyone know how to remove this bracket that holds the rain sensor in place? I'm trying to replace it but can't remove it. I'm sure it's something really simple, lol. Thanks in advance, guys.
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| bball44 (745hp) | Can you lift the black tabs at 2 and 8 o'clock??
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| 14061995 (358hp) | Quote: Originally posted by ezaircon4jc Can you lift the black tabs at 28:00? That might do the trick. I'll try it tomorrow morning and get back to you then. Thanks.
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| milaya (95hp) | Instructions from newtis Solar rain/light sensor and condensation sensor replacement Important! Read and observe instructions on protection against electrostatic damage (ESD protection). Necessary preparatory work: If necessary, remove the interior mirror. For equipment variants up to 09/2009: with 2-zone automatic air conditioning (SA 534) with 4-zone automatic air conditioning (SA 4 NB) with HeadUp Display (SA 610) From 09/2009 they are considered standard equipment and are therefore not included Device specifications dependent. Disconnect plug connection (2). Unlock the metal spring (3) in the direction of the arrow. Remove the solar rain/light and fog sensor (1) from the windshield. Installation note: Only close the plug connection (2) after installing the solar rain/light and fog sensor on the windshield! Carefully clean the windshield in the contact area with the solar rain/light and fog sensor! Remove all silicone residue. Remove the protective cover from the new solar rain/light and condensation sensor. The silicone-coated surface underneath must not be touched! Press the center of the metal spring (3) to ensure that the locking mechanism is properly seated in both hooks (5) on each side of the retainer (4). Note: The solar rain/light and fog sensor is automatically coded via a terminal change (terminal 15) using a connection box. Perform an initialization to calibrate the rain sensor to the windshield
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| abigail11 (831hp) | It missed the picture, sorry
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| 21102110 (203hp) | Quote: Originally posted by wcr3d Instructions by newtis Replacing the Solar Rain/Light Sensor and Condensation Sensor Important! Read and observe instructions on protection against electrostatic damage (ESD protection). Necessary preparatory work: If necessary, remove the interior mirror. For equipment variants up to 09/2009: with 2-zone automatic air conditioning (SA 534) with 4-zone automatic air conditioning (SA 4 NB) with HeadUp Display (SA 610) From 09/2009 they are considered standard equipment and are therefore not included Device specifications dependent. Disconnect plug connection (2). Unlock the metal spring (3) in the direction of the arrow. Remove the solar rain/light and fog sensor (1) from the windshield. Installation note: Only close the plug connection (2) after installing the solar rain/light and fog sensor on the windshield! Carefully clean the windshield in the contact area with the solar rain/light and fog sensor! Remove all silicone residue. Remove the protective cover from the new solar rain/light and condensation sensor. The silicone-coated surface underneath must not be touched! Press the center of the metal spring (3) to ensure that the locking mechanism is properly seated in both hooks (5) on each side of the retainer (4). Note: The solar rain/light and fog sensor is automatically coded via a terminal change (terminal 15) using a connection box. Perform an initialization to calibrate the rain sensor to the windshield. Thank you!
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| girlpower1 (63hp) | Quote: Originally posted by gdotgreen Quote: Originally posted by wcr3d Instructions by newtis Replacing the Solar Rain/Light Sensor and Condensation Sensor Important! Read and observe instructions on protection against electrostatic damage (ESD protection). Necessary preparatory work: If necessary, remove the interior mirror. For equipment variants up to 09/2009: with 2-zone automatic air conditioning (SA 534) with 4-zone automatic air conditioning (SA 4 NB) with HeadUp Display (SA 610) From 09/2009 they are considered standard equipment and are therefore not included Device specifications dependent. Disconnect plug connection (2). Unlock the metal spring (3) in the direction of the arrow. Remove the solar rain/light and fog sensor (1) from the windshield. Installation note: Only close the plug connection (2) after installing the solar rain/light and fog sensor on the windshield! Carefully clean the windshield in the contact area with the solar rain/light and fog sensor! Remove all silicone residue. Remove the protective cover from the new solar rain/light and condensation sensor. The silicone-coated surface underneath must not be touched! Press the center of the metal spring (3) to ensure that the locking mechanism is properly seated in both hooks (5) on each side of the retainer (4). Note: The solar rain/light and fog sensor is automatically coded via a terminal change (terminal 15) using a connection box. Perform an initialization to calibrate the rain sensor to the windshield. Thank you! Was finally able to complete this job before the rainy season here in Florida. These instructions were spot on. I had a little trouble unlocking the mount, but it moved once I figured out how to apply pressure in the right place. Thanks for the help with the instructions. 2013 528i
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| 060788 (496hp) | Hello, please tell us the part number of the bracket. It's the same as my F34. I would appreciate your support !
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| 201005 (914hp) | https://workshop-manuals.com/bmw/5_s..._solar_sensor/
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| stoopid1 (79hp) | Does anyone know how to remove this bracket that holds the rain sensor in place? I'm trying to replace it but can't remove it. I'm sure it's something really simple, lol. Thanks in advance, guys.
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| icecream13 (924hp) | Can you lift the black tabs at 2 and 8 o'clock??
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| r2d2r2d2 (970hp) | Quote: Originally posted by ezaircon4jc Can you lift the black tabs at 28:00? That might do the trick. I'll try it tomorrow morning and get back to you then. Thanks.
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| portman (608hp) | Instructions from newtis Solar rain/light sensor and condensation sensor replacement Important! Read and observe instructions on protection against electrostatic damage (ESD protection). Necessary preparatory work: If necessary, remove the interior mirror. For equipment variants up to 09/2009: with 2-zone automatic air conditioning (SA 534) with 4-zone automatic air conditioning (SA 4 NB) with HeadUp Display (SA 610) From 09/2009 they are considered standard equipment and are therefore not included Device specifications dependent. Disconnect plug connection (2). Unlock the metal spring (3) in the direction of the arrow. Remove the solar rain/light and fog sensor (1) from the windshield. Installation note: Only close the plug connection (2) after installing the solar rain/light and fog sensor on the windshield! Carefully clean the windshield in the contact area with the solar rain/light and fog sensor! Remove all silicone residue. Remove the protective cover from the new solar rain/light and condensation sensor. The silicone-coated surface underneath must not be touched! Press the center of the metal spring (3) to ensure that the locking mechanism is properly seated in both hooks (5) on each side of the retainer (4). Note: The solar rain/light and fog sensor is automatically coded via a terminal change (terminal 15) using a connection box. Perform an initialization to calibrate the rain sensor to the windshield
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| maggie01 (903hp) | It missed the picture, sorry
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| bravo (772hp) | Quote: Originally posted by wcr3d Instructions by newtis Replacing the Solar Rain/Light Sensor and Condensation Sensor Important! Read and observe instructions on protection against electrostatic damage (ESD protection). Necessary preparatory work: If necessary, remove the interior mirror. For equipment variants up to 09/2009: with 2-zone automatic air conditioning (SA 534) with 4-zone automatic air conditioning (SA 4 NB) with HeadUp Display (SA 610) From 09/2009 they are considered standard equipment and are therefore not included Device specifications dependent. Disconnect plug connection (2). Unlock the metal spring (3) in the direction of the arrow. Remove the solar rain/light and fog sensor (1) from the windshield. Installation note: Only close the plug connection (2) after installing the solar rain/light and fog sensor on the windshield! Carefully clean the windshield in the contact area with the solar rain/light and fog sensor! Remove all silicone residue. Remove the protective cover from the new solar rain/light and condensation sensor. The silicone-coated surface underneath must not be touched! Press the center of the metal spring (3) to ensure that the locking mechanism is properly seated in both hooks (5) on each side of the retainer (4). Note: The solar rain/light and fog sensor is automatically coded via a terminal change (terminal 15) using a connection box. Perform an initialization to calibrate the rain sensor to the windshield. Thank you!
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| 198514 (753hp) | Quote: Originally posted by gdotgreen Quote: Originally posted by wcr3d Instructions by newtis Replacing the Solar Rain/Light Sensor and Condensation Sensor Important! Read and observe instructions on protection against electrostatic damage (ESD protection). Necessary preparatory work: If necessary, remove the interior mirror. For equipment variants up to 09/2009: with 2-zone automatic air conditioning (SA 534) with 4-zone automatic air conditioning (SA 4 NB) with HeadUp Display (SA 610) From 09/2009 they are considered standard equipment and are therefore not included Device specifications dependent. Disconnect plug connection (2). Unlock the metal spring (3) in the direction of the arrow. Remove the solar rain/light and fog sensor (1) from the windshield. Installation note: Only close the plug connection (2) after installing the solar rain/light and fog sensor on the windshield! Carefully clean the windshield in the contact area with the solar rain/light and fog sensor! Remove all silicone residue. Remove the protective cover from the new solar rain/light and condensation sensor. The silicone-coated surface underneath must not be touched! Press the center of the metal spring (3) to ensure that the locking mechanism is properly seated in both hooks (5) on each side of the retainer (4). Note: The solar rain/light and fog sensor is automatically coded via a terminal change (terminal 15) using a connection box. Perform an initialization to calibrate the rain sensor to the windshield. Thank you! Was finally able to complete this job before the rainy season here in Florida. These instructions were spot on. I had a little trouble unlocking the mount, but it moved once I figured out how to apply pressure in the right place. Thanks for the help with the instructions. 2013 528i
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| perro1 (869hp) | Hello, please tell us the part number of the bracket. It's the same as my F34. I would appreciate your support !
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| 21091983 (549hp) | https://workshop-manuals.com/bmw/5_s..._solar_sensor/
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| bambucha (806hp) | Hello, I bought a 2014 BMW F10 535xi and so far it's a fantastic car. The only problem at the moment is that this clicking noise can only be heard at low speed when I'm reversing and the steering wheel is turned to the maximum left/right. Particularly noticeable when I park... Any suggestions as to what this is about. I have a service appointment scheduled for next week but wanted to check to see if anyone else is experiencing this issue.
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| 00001 (223hp) | Sounds to me, without hearing it, like classic CV axle damage.
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| sandie (359hp) | +1 on the axis. These cars, for whatever reason, eat through the front axle on the passenger side. I've already replaced mine three times and think I'm due for a fourth one soon.
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| patou (485hp) | Quote: Originally written by Houranimd49. I've already replaced mine three times and I think I'm due for a fourth one soon. Sounds like you might want to check your motor mounts! Or you can use junk quality Autozone axles.
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| 050380 (547hp) | Quote: Originally posted by 7er-addict Quote: Originally posted by Houranimd49 I've replaced mine three times and I think I'm due for a fourth soon. Sounds like you might want to check your motor mounts! Or you can use junk quality Autozone axles. You know, I never thought of doing that – thanks for the tip. I have always used the original OE axle that was just rebuilt. Might explain the thumping noise I always hear even on uneven surfaces.
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| 03121980 (670hp) | I drive the non-XDrive version, so no front CV axle. I think the clicking sound was heard when I turned the steering wheel all the way to the left. The noise came from the strut bar. I installed a small washer there and the noise has since gone
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| regenbogen (97hp) | Hello, I bought a 2014 BMW F10 535xi and so far it's a fantastic car. The only problem at the moment is that this clicking noise can only be heard at low speed when I'm reversing and the steering wheel is turned to the maximum left/right. Particularly noticeable when I park... Any suggestions as to what this is about. I have a service appointment scheduled for next week but wanted to check to see if anyone else is experiencing this issue.
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| rubies (138hp) | Sounds to me, without hearing it, like classic CV axle damage.
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| reader (115hp) | +1 on the axis. These cars, for whatever reason, eat through the front axle on the passenger side. I've already replaced mine three times and think I'm due for a fourth one soon.
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| neng2000 (341hp) | Quote: Originally written by Houranimd49. I've already replaced mine three times and I think I'm due for a fourth one soon. Sounds like you might want to check your motor mounts! Or you can use junk quality Autozone axles.
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| monamona (660hp) | Quote: Originally posted by 7er-addict Quote: Originally posted by Houranimd49 I've replaced mine three times and I think I'm due for a fourth soon. Sounds like you might want to check your motor mounts! Or you can use junk quality Autozone axles. You know, I never thought of doing that – thanks for the tip. I have always used the original OE axle that was just rebuilt. Might explain the thumping noise I always hear even on uneven surfaces.
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| 04051995 (47hp) | I drive the non-XDrive version, so no front CV axle. I think the clicking sound was heard when I turned the steering wheel all the way to the left. The noise came from the strut bar. I installed a small washer there and the noise has since gone
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| sandra23 (222hp) | Hi everyone, I couldn't pass on the 26,000 mile N55 F10 from one owner. Whoever drove the car took care of it. The condition is like new. I'm surprised it already has an oil leak (probably because it hasn't been driven enough), I don't know if it's a valve cover or an oil pan issue, but whatever, it's going to a shop for repairs. It has all the options that matter to me, HUD, soft close doors, cold weather package, etc. There is no M Sport package, but it's fine. I had the same car that I traded in two years ago with about 120,000 miles on it. A few questions I have: 1) Do you feel a slight seat vibration? It is more noticeable when the air conditioning is on. I think I had the same problem with my old one and never figured it out (not sure if I'm too sensitive lol). The only thing I didn't change was the engine mounts. 2) Is your instrument cluster not compatible with YouTube music? Sometimes the name of the song always stays the same, or you can't switch from one song to the next (you have to do this manually via the phone). Otherwise I'm happy to be back. I'll probably add ceramic coating and PPF to the entire front end as I plan on keeping it for at least two to three years. I haven't taken any photos of it yet, but will attach them as soon as I have them. Thank you everyone!
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| lauren6 (933hp) | Welcome, back, send pictures!
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| raspberry1 (762hp) | Hi everyone, I couldn't pass on the 26,000 mile N55 F10 from one owner. Whoever drove the car took care of it. The condition is like new. I'm surprised it already has an oil leak (probably because it hasn't been driven enough), I don't know if it's a valve cover or an oil pan issue, but whatever, it's going to a shop for repairs. It has all the options that matter to me, HUD, soft close doors, cold weather package, etc. There is no M Sport package, but it's fine. I had the same car that I traded in two years ago with about 120,000 miles on it. A few questions I have: 1) Do you feel a slight seat vibration? It is more noticeable when the air conditioning is on. I think I had the same problem with my old one and never figured it out (not sure if I'm too sensitive lol). The only thing I didn't change was the engine mounts. 2) Is your instrument cluster not compatible with YouTube music? Sometimes the name of the song always stays the same, or you can't switch from one song to the next (you have to do this manually via the phone). Otherwise I'm happy to be back. I'll probably add ceramic coating and PPF to the entire front end as I plan on keeping it for at least two to three years. I haven't taken any photos of it yet, but will attach them as soon as I have them. Thank you everyone!
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| lac (907hp) | Welcome, back, send pictures!
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| amalie (62hp) | Hi guys, I recently had the oil pan leak fixed by replacing the gasket. When replacing the gasket, the mechanic found screws in the oil pan, but couldn't understand where they came from. Could you please let me know where it could be coming from? I have a BMW 535i, built in 2011. Greetings, Arnav
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| pelusa1 (564hp) | Hi guys, I recently had the oil pan leak fixed by replacing the gasket. When replacing the gasket, the mechanic found screws in the oil pan, but couldn't understand where they came from. Could you please let me know where it could be coming from? I have a BMW 535i, built in 2011. Greetings, Arnav
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| 030484 (416hp) | I have a 2011 535i xDrive with the following warning messages: Chassis Stabilization Malfunction, Traction Control Light, DSC xDrive Malfunction. I took it to an independent shop that works with BMWs. There are great online reviews there and it seems like a great collaboration. The part that needs to be replaced due to water damage is a control module with part number 34526799712. At some point the sunroof was leaking (which I knew when I bought the car), causing moisture in the car, the sunroof module was defective and the ABS module too. The ABS module itself costs $1,700, and the cost of removing the old one, installing a new one, and programming it totals $2,423. In the shop it was fine that I could find a used module on eBay ($100), but if the module is bad I would have to pay twice the $723 for installation and programming as I get another one must. Do you have any suggestions? How likely is it that a used module is defective? Should I bite the bullet and pay the $1,700 for the new model that comes with a two-year parts and labor warranty? Any suggestions would be appreciated before I decide to pay the $2400 bill. Thank you in advance.
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| jahlove (261hp) | Used from a reputable seller
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| Lorraine (455hp) | Quote: Originally posted by OnlyGerman. Used from a reputable seller. I would like to do that, but I don't know of any reputable used parts store for BMW parts. Any suggestions?
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| 051180 (202hp) | I learned something new today that will help me a lot. I contacted codemybimmer and he can do remote coding for $125. All I have to do is buy the used ICM for $100, find out the location of the old one and remove it, install the new one and he will do the remote coding to make it work with my car. Saves me a lot of money compared to the workshop.
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| sona (19hp) | The module is located at the bottom of the fender wheel arch on the driver's side. This is something you can definitely do yourself and have coded onto your car. This way you save a lot of money. If only the computer is defective, you may be able to replace only the computer and not the entire module to avoid draining the brake fluid
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| osama (876hp) | UPDATE: I bought a used ICM module on eBay for $100, removed the entire center console and installed the new module, emailed Codemybimmer and he coded it for my car, measured the ride height and all the warning lights were out in the last 40 miles.
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| nastya1995 (712hp) | I have a 2011 535i xDrive with the following warning messages: Chassis Stabilization Malfunction, Traction Control Light, DSC xDrive Malfunction. I took it to an independent shop that works with BMWs. There are great online reviews there and it seems like a great collaboration. The part that needs to be replaced due to water damage is a control module with part number 34526799712. At some point the sunroof was leaking (which I knew when I bought the car), causing moisture in the car, the sunroof module was defective and the ABS module too. The ABS module itself costs $1,700, and the cost of removing the old one, installing a new one, and programming it totals $2,423. In the shop it was fine that I could find a used module on eBay ($100), but if the module is bad I would have to pay twice the $723 for installation and programming as I get another one must. Do you have any suggestions? How likely is it that a used module is defective? Should I bite the bullet and pay the $1,700 for the new model that comes with a two-year parts and labor warranty? Any suggestions would be appreciated before I decide to pay the $2400 bill. Thank you in advance.
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| nick21 (213hp) | Used from a reputable seller
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| shorty25 (294hp) | Quote: Originally posted by OnlyGerman. Used from a reputable seller. I would like to do that, but I don't know of any reputable used parts store for BMW parts. Any suggestions?
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| 160880 (443hp) | I learned something new today that will help me a lot. I contacted codemybimmer and he can do remote coding for $125. All I have to do is buy the used ICM for $100, find out the location of the old one and remove it, install the new one and he will do the remote coding to make it work with my car. Saves me a lot of money compared to the workshop.
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| Mr. Stone (780hp) | The module is located at the bottom of the fender wheel arch on the driver's side. This is something you can definitely do yourself and have coded onto your car. This way you save a lot of money. If only the computer is defective, you may be able to replace only the computer and not the entire module to avoid draining the brake fluid
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| marihuana (144hp) | UPDATE: I bought a used ICM module on eBay for $100, removed the entire center console and installed the new module, emailed Codemybimmer and he coded it for my car, measured the ride height and all the warning lights were out in the last 40 miles.
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| rock1234 (166hp) | Here is the car I picked up today. 2014 registered F10 528i. I love the power of this car. But like most cars, there are a few niggling interior issues. 1. The front seat back pocket hinge broke off. Has anyone ever repaired this themselves? Is there a way to open the plastic cover on the back of the seat? 2. The vinyl film is partially peeling off the dashboard trim and center console. 3. Sticky rubber layer like most newer BMWs. Very annoying. 4. The start-stop lettering is coming off due to the peeling film. This needs to be replaced. Some mods. 1. I have already used the Bimmer code on this car to deactivate the automatic start-stop system when starting. 2. Automatically fold mirrors when the car is locked. 3. I don't see the added Mperformance logo for the cluster in the Bimmer code. Future mods. 1. 20 inch step wheel. Currently on 18 inches. Everything blacked out by the used car dealer. Ok, but it would have been nicer if it had a smoked color. 2. Mperformance front and rear bumpers. 3. JB4 installation for level 1 upgrade. I installed the JB4 in the F30, but since I am selling the F30, I will transfer it to the F10.
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| thebest12 (591hp) | It's not supposed to be a Debbie Downer, but this looks like one before 2014 (LCI). The headlights are also pre-LCI (AFAIK), as are the bumper and mirrors.
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| singh123 (415hp) | Quote: Originally posted by alex0607... ...I don't see the addition of the Mperformance logo for the cluster in the Bimmer code. The F10/F11 has three different types of instrument cluster. I believe you need to have either the 6WA or 6WB cluster (they have more digital content). The Bimmercode website lists the modules required for a specific coding. Check out which module is required below:
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| chouette (177hp) | Quote: Originally written by ezaircon4jc. It's not supposed to be a Debbie Downer, but this looks like one before 2014 (LCI). The headlights are also pre-LCI (AFAIK), as are the bumper and mirrors. It's okay. Yes, it is a 2013 model, but only registered in 2014. I didn't have much choice on the used market. Lots of 520i that didn't interest me. However, I was hoping for an in-line six-cylinder. When there was a good offer, I took it. My only concern with this car is the N20 timing chain issue. I will take a look at this mod in the near future.
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| harveje (194hp) | Quote: Originally written by Qsilver7 The F10/F11 has three different types of instrument clusters. I believe you need to have either the 6WA or 6WB cluster (they have more digital content). The Bimmercode website lists the modules required for a specific coding. Check out which module is required below: Sure. Will investigate this. However, that is not important at this point. I. I just wanted to set the start-stop function as the default at startup. I don't like the function and I've read that it could be the cause of engine failure. I'm not sure, but I can live without this feature.
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| tinker13 (907hp) | Quote: Originally written by Qsilver7 The F10/F11 has three different types of instrument clusters. I believe you need to have either the 6WA or 6WB cluster (they have more digital content). The Bimmercode website lists the modules required for a specific coding. Below you can see which module is required: The M Performance module for the F10 sucks. On my LCI F10 with 6WB, only M550d is displayed in the instrument cluster.
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