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lordjlam (706hp) Quote: Originally written by AussieBob Chinaman #2 fulfills and restores my faith in Taiwan. Hopefully a good primer was used. Can you tell us the eBay seller of the buttons???

Silent_308 (973hp) The seller is gobigstore2018, the eBay link is: https://www.ebay.com/itm/2x-Car-Heat...53.m2749.l2649

pinkfloyd1 (235hp) This is the most hilarious thread I have read on this forum so far. It's the story of a poor Australian who bloodily tries to replace the button on his sedan with cheap Chinese parts from eBay in order to save those very nickels in his shabby pockets. Great job, dude. Austrians like you impress me as always, as gentle, elegant and clever as they are used to. As smart as you are, I would like to teach you a lesson: If I were you, I would never humiliate myself into buying things with a group of people you look down on. Make a note and stop embarrassing yourself again. shame.

july2008 (145hp) Quote: Originally written by john_luvbimmer. This is the most hilarious thread I have read on this forum so far. It's about the story of a poor Australian who bloodily tries to replace the button on his sedan with cheap Chinese parts from eBay in order to save those very nickels in his shabby pockets. Great job, dude. Austrians like you impress me as always, as gentle, elegant and clever as they are used to. As smart as you are, I would like to teach you a lesson: If I were you, I would never humiliate myself into buying things with a group of people you look down on. Make a note and stop embarrassing yourself again. Shame. Sorry for the reference to Taiwan. Enjoy your world like I enjoy mine.

nathan00 (312hp) I recently replaced the trunk opening button. I don't think I used it that much, but I noticed that the car part was completely rubbed off. Cheap and easy exchange on eBay.

darius2 (785hp) I bought these cheap Chinese button caps from Hong Kong, who knows they might use better plastic paint primer than BMW's. After 8 years, the originals now look even cheaper.

sexybitch! (763hp) Good to know there are replacement buttons if needed. How did you find the source (provider/seller)? Was it eBay? Let us know... others may need to source replacement buttons. Thankfully, I use the AUTO function 99% of the time, so it's rare that I ever touch the fan speed buttons on the air conditioner control panel. But over the years, some of the other keys may need to be replaced if the originals no longer hold up. I'm a user who sets everything once and then forgets it and just lets the AUTO climate function do its job. If it's summer and I need more air speed, I use the pre-programmed MAX function. If it is autumn/spring or in rare cases there is a lot of condensation to be removed from the interior windows, there is the quick defrost/defrost button (to the left of the MAX button).).

getalife1 (553hp) I'm in the same boat...some of my HVAC knobs need replacing. I also replaced my handbrake button through a seller on eBay. I can't tell the difference between cheap China and OEM

daboss1 (576hp) The HVAC knobs are easy to loosen? ?

nacional10 (124hp) eBay is the place, there is probably a factory in China that made thousands of these and they are now with sellers on eBay. The buttons are easy to remove, the BMW TIS recommends taping the area around the buttons to avoid scratching the surface and removing it with a special credit card sized plastic tool while simultaneously pushing in one side to lift the other side out of the keycap for rocker style fan speed. A trim removal tool will produce the same result. With such a great car, it's these little things that drive me crazy. China is active in the aftermarket, so there is obviously a market for it. Small margin, perhaps large volumes. BMW simply makes big profits.

dylan10 (481hp) I would also be interested in information about a specific seller or item number that people have had success with.

patryk123 (570hp) I have the same problem. I suspect fan speed (off) is what I've been pushing the most for the last 6 years or so. I haven't replaced it yet but it has been worn for at least 3 years. However, I lost my driver-sized vent. And BMW claimed the replacement cost $230. WTF! It stayed like that for a year. Until I finally googled replacement products based on a friend's recommendation. There was a complete replacement and just the cover replacement. I chose the latter since that was all I really needed and...it came from China. Replacing the cover cost $30. It took 2 weeks to arrive. It fits perfectly and works great. Also my center vents are now failing so I ordered a replacement cover. Again it took 2 weeks to get here. Since it was slightly larger, it cost $50. I got them on eBay. No problem and I plan on using it again, Barry

200600 (335hp) Set the temperature to 68°F, press “Auto,” then “A/C Off,” and don’t worry about the fan speed buttons. I'm sure mine have never been used

zamzam (770hp) I finally got the fan button covers from the eBay China guy (via the Philippines, according to the shipping bag they came in). But when I removed the old button from the F10, the new button was too wide to fit in the button space, even though the eBay listing said two thirds lower: "Fit: for F10 F11" and the first picture in my original post The eBay website was also displayed. I have sent a message to the seller and am curious whether he can deliver the goods described. In the meantime, I'm still looking at these crappy buttons, but maybe the seller will surprise me for Christmas --------- Well, the best the guy could do was give a full refund after I sent it back had to take pictures. I hope that China man No. 2 can keep what he announced.

65656565 (3hp) Chinaman #2 delivers and restores my faith in Taiwan. Hopefully a good primer was used.

gameover1 (358hp) Quote: Originally written by AussieBob Chinaman #2 fulfills and restores my faith in Taiwan. Hopefully a good primer was used. Can you tell us the eBay seller of the buttons???

05051989 (308hp) The seller is gobigstore2018, the eBay link is: https://www.ebay.com/itm/2x-Car-Heat...53.m2749.l2649

garima (937hp) This is the most hilarious thread I have read on this forum so far. It's the story of a poor Australian who bloodily tries to replace the button on his sedan with cheap Chinese parts from eBay in order to save those very nickels in his shabby pockets. Great job, dude. Austrians like you impress me as always, as gentle, elegant and clever as they are used to. As smart as you are, I would like to teach you a lesson: If I were you, I would never humiliate myself into buying things with a group of people you look down on. Make a note and stop embarrassing yourself again. shame.

ALEJANDRO (987hp) Quote: Originally written by john_luvbimmer. This is the most hilarious thread I have read on this forum so far. It's about the story of a poor Australian who bloodily tries to replace the button on his sedan with cheap Chinese parts from eBay in order to save those very nickels in his shabby pockets. Great job, dude. Austrians like you impress me as always, as gentle, elegant and clever as they are used to. As smart as you are, I would like to teach you a lesson: If I were you, I would never humiliate myself into buying things with a group of people you look down on. Make a note and stop embarrassing yourself again. Shame. Sorry for the reference to Taiwan. Enjoy your world like I enjoy mine.

30031982 (604hp) I recently replaced the trunk opening button. I don't think I used it that much, but I noticed that the car part was completely rubbed off. Cheap and easy exchange on eBay.

qwerty1989 (891hp) Hi guys, I purchased a 2014 CPO 550i that I purchased with 27,000 miles on it. I have enjoyed the car but have had drivetrain issues several times in the last 6 months of owning the car. I noticed loss of power and hiccups on cold starts, which the service center attributed to a fuel pump malfunction that could not be resolved. Later they repaired several injectors, after which the problem still did not go away, but they stopped paying attention until the car stalled in the middle of acceleration and shut off. They did the same repairs again and it ran fine, but the problem reoccurs. I'm not sure how to approach this, but would appreciate feedback from anyone who has had a similar issue on a CPO car that's still under warranty. Thanks!

152207 (455hp) Quote: Originally posted by 550ihtown Hi guys, I purchased a 2014 CPO 550i that I purchased with 27,000 miles. I have enjoyed the car but have had drivetrain issues several times in the last 6 months of owning the car. I noticed loss of power and hiccups on cold starts, which the service center attributed to a fuel pump malfunction that could not be resolved. Later they repaired several injectors, after which the problem still did not go away, but they stopped paying attention until the car stalled in the middle of acceleration and shut off. They did the same repairs again and it ran fine, but the problem reoccurs. I'm not sure how to approach this, but would appreciate feedback from anyone who has had a similar issue on a CPO car that's still under warranty. Thanks! Since it's the same ongoing problem, I would always take it back. You should waive the deductible because they haven't fixed the problem. It took my dealer three times and two technician visits to resolve my Comfort Access trunk issue and I only had to pay the initial co-payment. It may also be time to find a new dealer.

smokey15 (311hp) Quote: Originally posted by ezaircon4jc Quote: Originally posted by 550ihtown Hi guys, I purchased a 2014 CPO 550i that I purchased at 27,000 miles. I have enjoyed the car but have had drivetrain issues several times in the last 6 months of owning the car. I noticed loss of power and hiccups on cold starts, which the service center attributed to a fuel pump malfunction that could not be resolved. Later they repaired several injectors, after which the problem still did not go away, but they stopped paying attention until the car stalled in the middle of acceleration and shut off. They did the same repairs again and it ran fine, but the problem reoccurs. I'm not sure how to approach this, but would appreciate feedback from anyone who has had a similar issue on a CPO car that's still under warranty. Thanks! Since it's the same ongoing problem, I would always take it back. You should waive the deductible because they haven't fixed the problem. It took my dealer three times and two technician visits to resolve my Comfort Access trunk issue and I only had to pay the initial co-payment. It may also be time to find a new dealer. The dealer hasn't asked me for a deductible yet - he said he wouldn't charge me for the repairs because the car was still under warranty. I'm a little frustrated the car broke down at a traffic light and the other time in stop-and-go traffic on the highway. With the factory warranty almost expiring in a year, BMW is stopping coverage for certain repairs and I will have a hard time selling this car if the problem persists. Other dealers in Houston don't want to touch the car because the repairs weren't done at their center.

manny24 (280hp) Quote: Originally posted by 550ihtown I haven't been asked about a deductible by the dealer yet - they said they wouldn't charge me for the repairs since the car is under warranty. I'm a little frustrated the car broke down at a traffic light and the other time in stop-and-go traffic on the highway. With the factory warranty almost expiring in a year, BMW is stopping coverage for certain repairs and I will have a hard time selling this car if the problem persists. Other dealers in Houston don't want to touch the car because the repairs weren't done at their center. That sounds strange... It's not that the repairs weren't documented in their system... The deductible applies when the CPO occurs.

technics1 (978hp) I feel your pain, I have the 2013 550i. I had a similar problem where my car lost power when I put it on the ground. It took the dealer three times to fix the problem. When a spark plug was replaced, the coil was defective. Since then they have done this without any problems. The third time this happened to me, I asked CA to get the lead engineer to look into the problem so he could get it done. Good luck

1726354 (688hp) Mine didn't stall, but I had powertrain failure three times in the first 2,000 miles of ownership, same issue on the 2014 550. It appears the issue is now resolved as all the injectors and connectors have been replaced. They did a cold start, then looked at the cylinders and found they were wet. During the last visit I asked them what we would do if they couldn't fix the problem and told them I would give them another chance, but very nicely.

qwerfv (694hp) Quote: Originally posted by ezaircon4jc This sounds strange... It's not like the repairs aren't documented in their system... The deductible applies when the CPO occurs. His car still has a factory warranty of 4/50,000, so there is no deductible. CPO will intervene once this is done. As for the OP: I would start pushing the lemon law issue if your state has laws for it, or ask your SA to push for a BMW buyback. They're usually really good at it. They take your car as a trade and give you more if you buy another BMW.

3boys1girl (977hp) Texas Lemon Law... http://www.txdmv.gov/motorists/consu...tion/lemon-law And for used (used) vehicles... http://www.txdmv.gov/motorists /consu ...tion/lemon law

Bayerman (638hp) Quote: Originally posted by ezaircon4jc Quote: Originally posted by 550ihtown I haven't been asked about a deductible by the dealer yet - they said the car was under warranty and they wouldn't charge me for repairs. I'm a little frustrated the car broke down at a traffic light and the other time in stop-and-go traffic on the highway. With the factory warranty almost expiring in a year, BMW is stopping coverage for certain repairs and I will have a hard time selling this car if the problem persists. Other dealers in Houston don't want to touch the car because the repairs weren't done at their center. That sounds strange... It's not that the repairs weren't documented in their system... The deductible applies when the CPO occurs. Understood. Thanks!

Carrozzeria (687hp) Thanks for sharing all the information - Update: After several calls to dealers in town, I was able to pick up the car from the same dealer. I looked at the old repairs in the first month of owning the car - (excuse the shouting - copied from the invoice) FAULTS FOUND 1108001 MIXTURE CONTROL: FUEL-AIR MIXTURE TOO LEAN, 118401 MIXTURE CONTROL: FUEL-AIR MIXTURE TOO LEAN, BIG DEVIATION, 7 12bd52 Lambda sensor, catalytic converter, electrical: Open circuit in the signal line. RAN TEST PLAN FOR O2 SENSOR FAULT AND WIRING FROM BANK 1 O2 SENSORS TO DME CHECKED AND NO FAULT FOUND IN WIRING. THEN TEST PLAN FOR MIXTURE CONTROL FAULTS PERFORMED. Began checking the crankcase system for smoke and found that the crankcase pipes were leaking. CRANKCASE PIPES REPLACED, FAULTS FIXED, VEHICLE TESTED AND FAULTS ARE NO LONGER EXISTING AT THIS TIME. After replacing the crankcase line, the test vehicle was unable to idle the following morning. Battery charger connected, vehicle test carried out, error memory queried and error 118001 found in the mixture control: fuel-air mixture too lean. The air intake system is full of smoke when the engine is cold and the turbo inlet seals are leaking. The turbo inlet seals were replaced, the intake system was tested for smoke and it was no longer leaking at this time. ERROR FIXED AND TEST VEHICLE VEHICLE AND VEHICLE CURRENTLY WORKING AS DESIGNED. I later had another powertrain malfunction where the error and repairs were as follows: ERROR 110001 CYLINDER INJECTION CUT OFF: HIGH PRESSURE FUEL SYSTEM PRESSURE TOO LOW. RAN TEST PLAN FOR THE FUEL SYSTEM AND NO FAULTS FOUND IN THE LOW PRESSURE FUEL SYSTEM. THEN TEST PLAN FOR HIGH PRESSURE FUEL SYSTEM PERFORMED & TEST PLAN FOUND NO FAULTS WITH THE SYSTEM. PRO workshop foreman pulled out all spark plugs and found no signs of contamination. PER PREMEISTER REPLACED BENCH 1 HIGH PRESSURE FUEL PUMP WITH UPDATED CONNECTION. ERROR FIXED & TEST DRIVE VEHICLE & VEHICLE WORKING AS DESIGNED AT THE TIME. The car still has problems starting cold and the weather hasn't cooperated. I asked them about the possibility of a buyback, but each time they said that it was a different repair and would not be considered at this time. Are the repairs major or minor? I'm strongly considering the lemon law since the total time my car has spent at the dealer is already more than 15 days without the work required this time.

8point (852hp) Long, long... What fuel are you using???

18041983 (240hp) Quote: Originally posted by ezaircon4jc Long, long take... What fuel are you using? I use Premium, but the dealer said the previous owner might have used Normal too

ah gon (324hp) Quote: Originally posted by 550ihtown I haven't been asked about a deductible by the dealer yet - they said they wouldn't charge me for the repairs since the car is under warranty. I'm a little frustrated the car broke down at a traffic light and the other time in stop-and-go traffic on the highway. With the factory warranty almost expiring in a year, BMW is stopping coverage for certain repairs and I will have a hard time selling this car if the problem persists. Other dealers in Houston don't want to touch the car because the repairs weren't done at their center. Try going to ABR Houston

banana8 (77hp) Quote: Originally posted by Al__Bundy Mine didn't stall, but I had powertrain failure 3 times in the first 2,000 miles I owned, same thing on the 2014 550. It seems like the problem is fixed now with all the injectors and connectors were exchanged. They did a cold start, then looked at the cylinders and found they were wet. During the last visit I asked them what we would do if they couldn't fix the problem and told them I would give them another chance, but very nicely. I had a similar problem and the injectors were changed. Mine is also a 2014 550i and has about 26,000 miles on it. The only reason my SA gave me is that he has seen this problem on a few other cars and he said the common theme is gas. I regularly filled up at Safeway near my old house. Since then I have been using premium gas like Chevron/76/Mobil etc. My buddy owns a Mobil/Exxon gas station and he told me that there is a noticeable difference between the gas that Safeway gets and what he gets at his gas station. gives . Since staying away from Safeway and other "low-level" gas stations, I haven't had any further problems. hope this helps. /Disclaimer: Before anyone starts delving into the lower/higher tier gas debate, I have had the following experience and it has worked well for me so far. So I believe in this theory...if not, that's fine...

goodbullet (646hp) Quote: Originally posted by xxpanipuri... /Disclaimer: Before anyone starts digging into the lower/higher level gas debate, this is my experience and it has worked well for me so far. So I believe in this theory... if not, that's fine... I agree with you... My last car did 50-75 miles per tank less on non-top levels than on top levels. Level. It also idled rougher and started slower. Switching to top tier (albeit Costco) brought extra miles and smoother idling.

saraha (510hp) Quote: Originally posted by ezaircon4jc I agree with you... My last car did 50-75 fewer miles per tank on the non-top level than on the top level. It also idled rougher and started slower. Switching to top tier (albeit Costco) brought extra miles and smoother idling. I haven't noticed any better MPG...but that could be due to my lead foot...LOL...

klondike (362hp) Almost all of the DTMs that these N63 cars trigger relate to coils, connectors and injectors. Add to that cracked hoses, etc., and many of these engines throw codes on a regular basis. Spend a few hours browsing the various BMW forums and reading all the issues on the 5 Series N63 pages. Tons of similar complaints about acceleration/DTM/rough idling/loss of power/jerking/issues that have nothing to do with oil burning or battery drain.

08081998 (209hp) Quote: Originally posted by rogueshot Almost all of the DTMs that these N63 cars trigger are related to coils, connectors and injectors. Add to that cracked hoses, etc., and many of these engines throw codes on a regular basis. Spend a few hours browsing the various BMW forums and reading all the issues on the 5 Series N63 pages. Tons of similar complaints about acceleration/DTM/rough idling/loss of power/jerking/issues that have nothing to do with oil burning or battery drain.

heyjude1 (729hp) I'm assuming that people in this forum are aware of the N63 lawsuit and that the parties are rumored to have reached a settlement that presumably includes further repairs/warranty coverage for N63 engines....

02071975 (805hp) Quote: Originally posted by rogueshot I'm assuming people on this forum are aware of the N63 lawsuit and that the parties have reportedly reached a settlement that presumably includes further repairs/warranty coverage for N63 engines... Thanks for that Info. Is the N63 class action lawsuit not valid for cars manufactured by? 2010?

18211821 (21hp) Quote: Originally posted by 550ihtown Thanks for the info. Doesn't the N63 class action lawsuit apply to cars manufactured up to 2010? It starts with cars made in 2010 (actually 2009, I think) and extends to 2013 (and maybe even 2014 for some models) - any BMW model that has the N63. Models with the N63TU (the redesign) are not covered. If I remember correctly, the N63 was sold in the US in versions 5, 5GT, x5, x6, 6 and 7.

220293 (569hp) Quote: Originally posted by rogueshot I'm assuming that people in this forum are aware of the N63 lawsuit and that the parties have reportedly reached a settlement that presumably includes further repairs/warranty coverage for N63 engines. Where is the comparison information??

junior69 (603hp) Hi guys, I purchased a 2014 CPO 550i that I purchased with 27,000 miles on it. I have enjoyed the car but have had drivetrain issues several times in the last 6 months of owning the car. I noticed loss of power and hiccups on cold starts, which the service center attributed to a fuel pump malfunction that could not be resolved. Later they repaired several injectors, after which the problem still did not go away, but they stopped paying attention until the car stalled in the middle of acceleration and shut off. They did the same repairs again and it ran fine, but the problem reoccurs. I'm not sure how to approach this, but would appreciate feedback from anyone who has had a similar issue on a CPO car that's still under warranty. Thanks!

azmattaz520 (51hp) Quote: Originally posted by 550ihtown Hi guys, I purchased a 2014 CPO 550i that I purchased with 27,000 miles. I have enjoyed the car but have had drivetrain issues several times in the last 6 months of owning the car. I noticed loss of power and hiccups on cold starts, which the service center attributed to a fuel pump malfunction that was not resolved. Later they repaired several injectors, after which the problem still did not go away, but they stopped paying attention until the car stalled in the middle of acceleration and shut off. They did the same repairs again and it ran fine, but the problem reoccurs. I'm not sure how to approach this, but would appreciate feedback from anyone who has had a similar issue on a CPO car that's still under warranty. Thanks! Since it's the same ongoing problem, I would always take it back. You should waive the deductible because they haven't fixed the problem. It took my dealer three times and two technician visits to resolve my Comfort Access trunk issue and I only had to pay the initial co-payment. It may also be time to find a new dealer.

26121980 (618hp) Quote: Originally posted by ezaircon4jc Quote: Originally posted by 550ihtown Hi guys, I purchased a 2014 CPO 550i that I purchased at 27,000 miles. I have enjoyed the car but have had drivetrain issues several times in the last 6 months of owning the car. I noticed loss of power and hiccups on cold starts, which the service center attributed to a fuel pump malfunction that was not resolved. Later they repaired several injectors, after which the problem still did not go away, but they stopped paying attention until the car stalled in the middle of acceleration and shut off. They did the same repairs again and it ran fine, but the problem reoccurs. I'm not sure how to approach this, but would appreciate feedback from anyone who has had a similar issue on a CPO car that's still under warranty. Thanks! Since it's the same ongoing problem, I would always take it back. You should waive the deductible because they haven't fixed the problem. It took my dealer three times and two technician visits to resolve my Comfort Access trunk issue and I only had to pay the initial co-payment. It may also be time to find a new dealer. The dealer hasn't asked me for a deductible yet - he said he wouldn't charge me for the repairs because the car was still under warranty. I'm a little frustrated the car broke down at a traffic light and the other time in stop-and-go traffic on the highway. With the factory warranty almost expiring in a year, BMW is stopping coverage for certain repairs and I will have a hard time selling this car if the problem persists. Other dealers in Houston don't want to touch the car because the repairs weren't done at their center.

jaxson1 (474hp) Quote: Originally posted by 550ihtown I haven't been asked about a deductible by the dealer yet - they said they wouldn't charge me for the repairs since the car is under warranty. I'm a little frustrated the car broke down at a traffic light and the other time in stop-and-go traffic on the highway. With the factory warranty almost expiring in a year, BMW is stopping coverage for certain repairs and I will have a hard time selling this car if the problem persists. Other dealers in Houston don't want to touch the car because the repairs weren't done at their center. That sounds strange... It's not that the repairs weren't documented in their system... The deductible applies when the CPO occurs.

fatboy5 (5hp) I feel your pain, I have the 2013 550i. I had a similar problem where my car lost power when I put it on the ground. It took the dealer three times to fix the problem. When a spark plug was replaced, the coil was defective. Since then they have done this without any problems. The third time this happened to me, I asked CA to get the lead engineer to look into the problem so he could get it done. Good luck

scorpio123 (611hp) Mine didn't stall, but I had powertrain failure three times in the first 2,000 miles of ownership, same issue on the 2014 550. It appears the issue is now resolved as all the injectors and connectors have been replaced. They did a cold start, then looked at the cylinders and found they were wet. During the last visit I asked them what we would do if they couldn't fix the problem and told them I would give them another chance, but very nicely.

admin01 (615hp) Quote: Originally posted by ezaircon4jc This sounds strange... It's not like the repairs aren't documented in their system... The deductible applies when the CPO occurs. His car still has a factory warranty of 4/50,000, so there is no deductible. CPO will intervene once this is done. As for the OP: I would start pushing the lemon law issue if your state has laws for it, or ask your SA to push for a BMW buyback. They're usually really good at it. They take your car as a trade and give you more if you buy another BMW.

canarias (474hp) Texas Lemon Law... http://www.txdmv.gov/motorists/consu...tion/lemon-law And for used (used) vehicles... http://www.txdmv.gov/motorists /consu ...tion/lemon law

ron_jeremy (526hp) Quote: Originally posted by ezaircon4jc Quote: Originally posted by 550ihtown I haven't been asked about a deductible by the dealer yet - they said the car was under warranty and they wouldn't charge me for repairs. I'm a little frustrated the car broke down at a traffic light and the other time in stop-and-go traffic on the highway. With the factory warranty almost expiring in a year, BMW is stopping coverage for certain repairs and I will have a hard time selling this car if the problem persists. Other dealers in Houston don't want to touch the car because the repairs weren't done at their center. That sounds strange... It's not that the repairs weren't documented in their system... The deductible applies when the CPO occurs. Understood. Thanks!

714714 (930hp) Thanks for sharing all the information - Update: After several calls to dealers in town, I was able to pick up the car from the same dealer. I looked at the old repairs in the first month of owning the car - (excuse the shouting - copied from the invoice) FAULTS FOUND 1108001 MIXTURE CONTROL: FUEL-AIR MIXTURE TOO LEAN, 118401 MIXTURE CONTROL: FUEL-AIR MIXTURE TOO LEAN, BIG DEVIATION, 7 12bd52 Lambda sensor, catalytic converter, electrical: Open circuit in the signal line. RAN TEST PLAN FOR O2 SENSOR FAULT AND WIRING FROM BANK 1 O2 SENSORS TO DME CHECKED AND NO FAULT FOUND IN WIRING. THEN TEST PLAN FOR MIXTURE CONTROL FAULTS PERFORMED. Began checking the crankcase system for smoke and found that the crankcase pipes were leaking. CRANKCASE PIPES REPLACED, FAULTS FIXED, VEHICLE TESTED AND FAULTS ARE NO LONGER EXISTING AT THIS TIME. After replacing the crankcase line, the test vehicle was unable to idle the following morning. Battery charger connected, vehicle test carried out, error memory queried and error 118001 found in the mixture control: fuel-air mixture too lean. The air intake system is full of smoke when the engine is cold and the turbo inlet seals are leaking. The turbo inlet seals were replaced, the intake system was tested for smoke and it was no longer leaking at this time. ERROR FIXED AND TEST VEHICLE VEHICLE AND VEHICLE CURRENTLY WORKING AS DESIGNED. I later had another powertrain malfunction where the error and repairs were as follows: ERROR 110001 CYLINDER INJECTION CUT OFF: HIGH PRESSURE FUEL SYSTEM PRESSURE TOO LOW. RAN TEST PLAN FOR THE FUEL SYSTEM AND NO FAULTS FOUND IN THE LOW PRESSURE FUEL SYSTEM. THEN TEST PLAN FOR HIGH PRESSURE FUEL SYSTEM PERFORMED & TEST PLAN FOUND NO FAULTS WITH THE SYSTEM. PRO workshop foreman pulled out all spark plugs and found no signs of contamination. PER PREMEISTER REPLACED BENCH 1 HIGH PRESSURE FUEL PUMP WITH UPDATED CONNECTION. ERROR FIXED & TEST DRIVE VEHICLE & VEHICLE WORKING AS DESIGNED AT THE TIME. The car still has problems starting cold and the weather hasn't cooperated. I asked them about the possibility of a buyback, but each time they said that it was a different repair and would not be considered at this time. Are the repairs major or minor? I'm strongly considering the lemon law since the total time my car has spent at the dealer is already more than 15 days without the work required this time.

citroen1 (645hp) Long, long... What fuel are you using???

single5 (973hp) Quote: Originally posted by ezaircon4jc Long, long take... What fuel are you using? I use Premium, but the dealer said the previous owner might have used Normal too

DinoNac (253hp) Quote: Originally posted by 550ihtown I haven't been asked about a deductible by the dealer yet - they said they wouldn't charge me for the repairs since the car is under warranty. I'm a little frustrated the car broke down at a traffic light and the other time in stop-and-go traffic on the highway. With the factory warranty almost expiring in a year, BMW is stopping coverage for certain repairs and I will have a hard time selling this car if the problem persists. Other dealers in Houston don't want to touch the car because the repairs weren't done at their center. Try going to ABR Houston

stormie (708hp) Quote: Originally posted by Al__Bundy Mine didn't stall, but I had powertrain failure 3 times in the first 2,000 miles I owned, same thing on the 2014 550. It seems like the problem is fixed now with all the injectors and connectors were exchanged. They did a cold start, then looked at the cylinders and found they were wet. During the last visit I asked them what we would do if they couldn't fix the problem and told them I would give them another chance, but very nicely. I had a similar problem and the injectors were changed. Mine is also a 2014 550i and has about 26,000 miles on it. The only reason my SA gave me is that he has seen this problem on a few other cars and he said the common theme is gas. I regularly filled up at Safeway near my old house. Since then I have been using premium gas like Chevron/76/Mobil etc. My buddy owns a Mobil/Exxon gas station and he told me that there is a noticeable difference between the gas that Safeway gets and what he gets at his gas station. gives . Since staying away from Safeway and other "low-level" gas stations, I haven't had any further problems. hope this helps. /Disclaimer: Before anyone starts delving into the lower/higher tier gas debate, I have had the following experience and it has worked well for me so far. So I believe in this theory...if not, that's fine...

111111m (726hp) Quote: Originally posted by xxpanipuri... /Disclaimer: Before anyone starts digging into the lower/higher level gas debate, this is my experience and it has worked well for me so far. So I believe in this theory... if not, that's fine... I agree with you... My last car did 50-75 miles per tank less on non-top levels than on top levels. Level. It also idled rougher and started slower. Switching to top tier (albeit Costco) brought extra miles and smoother idling.

drape (398hp) Quote: Originally posted by ezaircon4jc I agree with you... My last car did 50-75 fewer miles per tank on the non-top level than on the top level. It also idled rougher and started slower. Switching to top tier (albeit Costco) brought extra miles and smoother idling. I haven't noticed any better MPG...but that could be due to my lead foot...LOL...

wolverine3 (936hp) Almost all of the DTMs that these N63 cars trigger relate to coils, connectors and injectors. Add to that cracked hoses, etc., and many of these engines throw codes on a regular basis. Spend a few hours browsing the various BMW forums and reading all the issues on the 5 Series N63 pages. Tons of similar complaints about acceleration/DTM/rough idling/loss of power/jerking/issues that have nothing to do with oil burning or battery drain.

13601360 (426hp) Quote: Originally posted by rogueshot Almost all of the DTMs that these N63 cars trigger are related to coils, connectors and injectors. Add to that cracked hoses, etc., and many of these engines throw codes on a regular basis. Spend a few hours browsing the various BMW forums and reading all the issues on the 5 Series N63 pages. Tons of similar complaints about acceleration/DTM/rough idling/loss of power/jerking/issues that have nothing to do with oil burning or battery drain.

guildwars1 (697hp) I'm assuming that people in this forum are aware of the N63 lawsuit and that the parties are rumored to have reached a settlement that presumably includes further repairs/warranty coverage for N63 engines....

gtxtymrf (300hp) Quote: Originally posted by rogueshot I'm assuming people on this forum are aware of the N63 lawsuit and that the parties have reportedly reached a settlement that presumably includes further repairs/warranty coverage for N63 engines... Thanks for that Info. Is the N63 class action lawsuit not valid for cars manufactured by? 2010?

invest (618hp) Quote: Originally posted by 550ihtown Thanks for the info. Doesn't the N63 class action lawsuit apply to cars manufactured up to 2010? It starts with cars made in 2010 (actually 2009, I think) and extends to 2013 (and maybe even 2014 for some models) - any BMW model that has the N63. Models with the N63TU (the redesign) are not covered. If I remember correctly, the N63 was sold in the US in versions 5, 5GT, x5, x6, 6 and 7.

morrisond (920hp) Quote: Originally posted by rogueshot I'm assuming that people in this forum are aware of the N63 lawsuit and that the parties have reportedly reached a settlement that presumably includes further repairs/warranty coverage for N63 engines. Where is the comparison information??

123jkl (997hp) Hello BMW friends, a curb just took over the bumper cover of my 2016 BMW 528 M Sport. It wasn't my fault, I promise. The local BMW body shop quoted $2,100 to replace the exact repainted, installed, etc. bumper. However, they also said they would paint and install any bumper I brought them for a labor cost of a cool $1,100. Here's my question: Who are the trusted after-market bumper cover manufacturers that you would recommend purchasing from, and what styles would you recommend outside of the M-Sport? Thank you guys and girls.

guerra (593hp) Quote: Originally posted by Countersteer Hello BMW friends, I just took possession of my 2016 BMW 528 M Sport bumper cover. It wasn't my fault, I promise. The local BMW body shop quoted $2,100 to replace the exact repainted, installed, etc. bumper. However, they also said they would paint and install any bumper I brought them for a labor cost of a cool $1,100. Here's my question: Who are the trusted after-market bumper cover manufacturers that you would recommend purchasing from, and what styles would you recommend outside of the M-Sport? Thank you guys and girls. Try a reputable local body shop. I had my front bumper cover (not M-Sport) replaced with a factory bumper cover for about $1,200. The paint matches perfectly. I would avoid one of the chain stores like Caliber or Fix-it and look for a mom and pop store with good reviews.

a2345678 (602hp) Hello BMW friends, a curb just took over the bumper cover of my 2016 BMW 528 M Sport. It wasn't my fault, I promise. The local BMW body shop quoted $2,100 to replace the exact repainted, installed, etc. bumper. However, they also said they would paint and install any bumper I brought them for a labor cost of a cool $1,100. Here's my question: Who are the trusted after-market bumper cover manufacturers that you would recommend purchasing from, and what styles would you recommend outside of the M-Sport? Thank you guys and girls.

bp73 (97hp) Quote: Originally posted by Countersteer Hello BMW friends, I just took possession of my 2016 BMW 528 M Sport bumper cover. It wasn't my fault, I promise. The local BMW body shop quoted $2,100 to replace the exact repainted, installed, etc. bumper. However, they also said they would paint and install any bumper I brought them for a labor cost of a cool $1,100. Here's my question: Who are the trusted after-market bumper cover manufacturers that you would recommend purchasing from, and what styles would you recommend outside of the M-Sport? Thank you guys and girls. Try a reputable local body shop. I had my front bumper cover (not M-Sport) replaced with a factory bumper cover for about $1,200. The paint matches perfectly. I would avoid one of the chain stores like Caliber or Fix-it and look for a mom and pop store with good reviews.

mylove15 (632hp) I'm interested in converting the front end of an M5 into a 535i Msport. Are there any other parts needed besides the fenders, bumper and grill? I also noticed that the aftermarket models don't have wide fenders like the OEMs. I'm trying to build a fake M5. I just love the look of the wider fenders.

moonwalk (994hp) Quote: Originally posted by pf10 I'm interested in doing an M5 front end conversion into a 535i Msport. Are there any other parts needed besides the fenders, bumper and grill? I also noticed that the aftermarket models don't have wide fenders like the OEMs. I'm trying to build a fake M5. I just love the look of the wider fenders. What's the difference haha, can you show pictures?

322322 (377hp) So you want to build a fake M5? Bing bing bing bong bong bong You're the first to say this, my friend, and I've seen this many times before, but for different reasons

d54q7xjmhx (444hp) Achieving this requires much more than just fenders and a bumper. The plastic parts under the car all need to be replaced.

honeydog (227hp) Quote: Originally posted by lsturbointeg So you want to make a fake M5? Bing bing bing bong bong bong, you're the first to say this my friend and I've seen this many times but for other reasons I just do it because I love the wider front end. I won't put any M badges or anything like that

america16 (370hp) https://www.schmiedmann.com/de/bmw-f...duct=F105MCONV https://www.proautomotion.com/shop/b...onversion-kit/

passenger (174hp) The M Sport outfit is well done for a 5 Series, but the M5 outfit will be quite a deal for a non-M car in my opinion. Aside from the conversion work and money spent, you could find yourself in an embarrassing situation if another supercar on the road challenges you.

aqw123 (610hp) It's better to buy a used M5 than throw away your money building a fake M5 that looks like junk

islam1 (607hp) Can anyone recommend carbon fiber brands/kits? My local dealer wants 3700 plus 1000 for work to install the following black kidney grilles on the front lip. (Black only) Rear spoiler, mirror caps. The BMW website has no side skirts and the rear diffuser is just black, not carbon. I'm trying to get around the retailer's pricing requirements. I'm worried about mismatched carbon parts if I don't get a complete kit from the same brand. I am looking for top quality as this is my dream car and I plan to keep it. 2016 535i xdrive MSport

191287 (469hp) Quote: Originally written by SpartanWolf Can anyone recommend carbon fiber brands/kits? My local dealer wants 3700 plus 1000 for work to install the following black kidney grilles on the front lip. (Black only) Rear spoiler, mirror caps. The BMW website has no side skirts and the rear diffuser is just black, not carbon. I'm trying to get around the retailer's pricing requirements. I'm worried about mismatched carbon parts if I don't get a complete kit from the same brand. I am looking for top quality as this is my dream car and I plan to keep it. 2016 535i xdrive MSport so you don't mind being a replica or are you looking for an original? I can only think of a handful of people who were authentic, and 90% of us chose a replica on the F10 forum. I decided to get a replica just because I couldn't justify spending thousands of dollars on parts that could potentially break. So I went with the 3D style for the side skirt extensions, which I ordered here: https://www.ebay.com/itm/BMW-5-SERIE...csn:rk:26:pf:0 MSPORT -Side skirts that I ordered perfectly flush...no gaps! In order for the rear spoiler to keep the 3D theme, I chose a 3D style spoiler for the mirror. I chose some cheap eBay carbon fiber caps that I think look great! For the kidney grills I would just recommend some shiny double slat grills

pauline1 (708hp) Quote: Originally posted by lsturbointeg Quote: Originally posted by SpartanWolf Can anyone recommend carbon fiber brands/kits? My local dealer wants 3700 plus 1000 for work to install the following black kidney grilles on the front lip. (Black only) Rear spoiler, mirror caps. The BMW website has no side skirts and the rear diffuser is just black, not carbon. I'm trying to get around the retailer's pricing requirements. I'm worried about mismatched carbon parts if I don't get a complete kit from the same brand. I am looking for top quality as this is my dream car and I plan to keep it. 2016 535i xdrive MSport, so you don't mind a replica or are you looking for an original? I can only think of a handful of people who were authentic, and 90% of us chose a replica on the F10 forum. I decided to get a replica simply because I couldn't justify spending thousands of dollars on parts that could potentially break. So I went with the 3D style for the side skirt extensions, which I ordered here: https://www.ebay.com/itm/BMW-5-SERIE...csn:rk:26:pf:0 MSPORT -Side skirts that I ordered perfectly flush...no gaps! In order for the rear spoiler to keep the 3D theme, I chose a 3D style spoiler for the mirror. I chose some cheap eBay carbon fiber caps that I think look great! For the kidney grills I would just recommend some shiny double slat grills. Do all of your parts fit together as far as the patterns in the carbon fiber? I'm not against saving money. I'm just worried about the sun abuse. Will it last as long as the expensive options? I'm worried that if I put all the pieces together from different sources, they won't fit together and look the other way. Sorry, I didn't mean to hijack this thread, it's just new and can't start a new post. By the way, your ride looks sick

220777 (852hp) Quote: Originally posted by SpartanWolf Do all of your parts fit as far as the patterns in the carbon fiber are concerned? I don't mind saving money. I'm just worried about the sun abuse. Will it last as long as the expensive options? I'm worried that if I put all the pieces together from different sources, they won't match and look the other way. Sorry, I didn't mean to hijack this thread, it's just new and can't start a new post. By the way, your ride looks sick. Thanks for the comment, as far as the parts go, I would say yes. The carbon fiber weave pattern is fairly consistent, although I ordered these components from different vendors. I add some protection like Chemical Guy's Jetseal to protect it from future discoloration, fading or yellowing. So far it looks brand new to this day.

bangdar (51hp) Your car does what you want

jackhammer (94hp) I'm interested in converting the front end of an M5 into a 535i Msport. Are there any other parts needed besides the fenders, bumper and grill? I also noticed that the aftermarket models don't have wide fenders like the OEMs. I'm trying to build a fake M5. I just love the look of the wider fenders.

crazy7 (656hp) Quote: Originally posted by pf10 I'm interested in doing an M5 front end conversion into a 535i Msport. Are there any other parts needed besides the fenders, bumper and grill? I also noticed that the aftermarket models don't have wide fenders like the OEMs. I'm trying to build a fake M5. I just love the look of the wider fenders. What's the difference haha, can you show pictures?

chick3n (247hp) So you want to build a fake M5? Bing bing bing bong bong bong You're the first to say this, my friend, and I've seen this many times before, but for different reasons

thegreat12 (90hp) Achieving this requires much more than just fenders and a bumper. The plastic parts under the car all need to be replaced.

start12 (375hp) Quote: Originally posted by lsturbointeg So you want to make a fake M5? Bing bing bing bong bong bong, you're the first to say this my friend and I've seen this many times but for other reasons I just do it because I love the wider front end. I won't put any M badges or anything like that

werty12 (63hp) https://www.schmiedmann.com/de/bmw-f...duct=F105MCONV https://www.proautomotion.com/shop/b...onversion-kit/

crapola (251hp) The M Sport outfit is well done for a 5 Series, but the M5 outfit will be quite a deal for a non-M car in my opinion. Aside from the conversion work and money spent, you could find yourself in an embarrassing situation if another supercar on the road challenges you.

ger (252hp) It's better to buy a used M5 than throw away your money building a fake M5 that looks like junk

08041987 (561hp) Can anyone recommend carbon fiber brands/kits? My local dealer wants 3700 plus 1000 for work to install the following black kidney grilles on the front lip. (Black only) Rear spoiler, mirror caps. The BMW website has no side skirts and the rear diffuser is just black, not carbon. I'm trying to get around the retailer's pricing requirements. I'm worried about mismatched carbon parts if I don't get a complete kit from the same brand. I am looking for top quality as this is my dream car and I plan to keep it. 2016 535i xdrive MSport

texas4 (222hp) Quote: Originally written by SpartanWolf Can anyone recommend carbon fiber brands/kits? My local dealer wants 3700 plus 1000 for work to install the following black kidney grilles on the front lip. (Black only) Rear spoiler, mirror caps. The BMW website has no side skirts and the rear diffuser is just black, not carbon. I'm trying to get around the retailer's pricing requirements. I'm worried about mismatched carbon parts if I don't get a complete kit from the same brand. I am looking for top quality as this is my dream car and I plan to keep it. 2016 535i xdrive MSport so you don't mind being a replica or are you looking for an original? I can only think of a handful of people who were authentic, and 90% of us chose a replica on the F10 forum. I decided to get a replica just because I couldn't justify spending thousands of dollars on parts that could potentially break. So I went with the 3D style for the side skirt extensions, which I ordered here: https://www.ebay.com/itm/BMW-5-SERIE...csn:rk:26:pf:0 MSPORT -Side skirts that I ordered perfectly flush...no gaps! In order for the rear spoiler to keep the 3D theme, I chose a 3D style spoiler for the mirror. I chose some cheap eBay carbon fiber caps that I think look great! For the kidney grills I would just recommend some shiny double slat grills

902860 (674hp) Quote: Originally posted by lsturbointeg Quote: Originally posted by SpartanWolf Can anyone recommend carbon fiber brands/kits? My local dealer wants 3700 plus 1000 for work to install the following black kidney grilles on the front lip. (Black only) Rear spoiler, mirror caps. The BMW website has no side skirts and the rear diffuser is just black, not carbon. I'm trying to get around the retailer's pricing requirements. I'm worried about mismatched carbon parts if I don't get a complete kit from the same brand. I am looking for top quality as this is my dream car and I plan to keep it. 2016 535i xdrive MSport, so you don't mind a replica or are you looking for an original? I can only think of a handful of people who were authentic, and 90% of us chose a replica on the F10 forum. I decided to get a replica simply because I couldn't justify spending thousands of dollars on parts that could potentially break. So I went with the 3D style for the side skirt extensions, which I ordered here: https://www.ebay.com/itm/BMW-5-SERIE...csn:rk:26:pf:0 MSPORT -Side skirts that I ordered perfectly flush...no gaps! In order for the rear spoiler to keep the 3D theme, I chose a 3D style spoiler for the mirror. I chose some cheap eBay carbon fiber caps that I think look great! For the kidney grills I would just recommend some shiny double slat grills. Do all of your parts fit together as far as the patterns in the carbon fiber? I'm not against saving money. I'm just worried about the sun abuse. Will it last as long as the expensive options? I'm worried that if I put all the pieces together from different sources, they won't fit together and look the other way. Sorry, I didn't mean to hijack this thread, it's just new and can't start a new post. By the way, your ride looks sick

Crippe II (925hp) Quote: Originally posted by SpartanWolf Do all of your parts fit as far as the patterns in the carbon fiber are concerned? I don't mind saving money. I'm just worried about the sun abuse. Will it last as long as the expensive options? I'm worried that if I put all the pieces together from different sources, they won't match and look the other way. Sorry, I didn't mean to hijack this thread, it's just new and can't start a new post. By the way, your ride looks sick. Thanks for the comment, as far as the parts go, I would say yes. The carbon fiber weave pattern is fairly consistent, although I ordered these components from different vendors. I add some protection like Chemical Guy's Jetseal to protect it from future discoloration, fading or yellowing. So far it looks brand new to this day.

KL2DC (470hp) Your car does what you want

dennis22 (890hp) Hi guys, I have a 2011 535i and recently my mechanic told me that he noticed some leakage from the rear engine main seal as well as some leakage around the rear differential (probably also caused by a bad seal). I have an Easy Street Warranty from Route 66 and was wondering if anyone else has experience working with this company to cover rear main seal or rear differential seal replacement? My mechanic told me I should definitely get my rear diff seal replaced soon in a month or two before it causes any major damage. I wanted to know if anyone has had problems with Route 66 doing repairs like this? If so, what is the best way to explain the problem to them so that they actually treat it? Any insight/advice here will be greatly appreciated. Thanks, J

02031987 (128hp) It depends entirely on which level of insurance you have purchased. Most cheaper products do not cover gaskets and gaskets. Check your policy for coverage.

longboard (219hp) You shouldn't have a problem with the simple road cover

lover33 (500hp) Quote: Originally posted by N63f10550i You shouldn't have a problem with the simple road cover, I agree. Gaskets and seals are not included in some of their plans, but Easy Street should cover this.

19841012 (32hp) Let us know how it goes. I also have Easy Street, but my '13 hasn't needed any repairs yet. Here is the section under "Exclusions" so it could probably go either way: N. Seals and gaskets, including head gaskets, unless required in connection with the replacement of a covered repair. (This exclusion does not apply to the Main Street or Easy Street plan). Fluid leakage is not a covered repair on all plans. Therefore, Easy Street covers gaskets and seals, but fluid seepage does not?

ohmygosh (50hp) Seepage (the slow escape of oil) is not covered. Oil leaks (oil drops) are covered. Pictures may be required to justify oil leak repair.

poolroom (530hp) Hi guys, I have a 2011 535i and recently my mechanic told me that he noticed some leakage from the rear engine main seal as well as some leakage around the rear differential (probably also caused by a bad seal). I have an Easy Street Warranty from Route 66 and was wondering if anyone else has experience working with this company to cover rear main seal or rear differential seal replacement? My mechanic told me I should definitely get my rear diff seal replaced soon in a month or two before it causes any major damage. I wanted to know if anyone has had problems with Route 66 doing repairs like this? If so, what is the best way to explain the problem to them so that they actually treat it? Any insight/advice here will be greatly appreciated. Thanks, J

05041982 (401hp) It depends entirely on which level of insurance you have purchased. Most cheaper products do not cover gaskets and gaskets. Check your policy for coverage.

okcomputer (253hp) You shouldn't have a problem with the simple road cover

lbyfhf (425hp) Quote: Originally posted by N63f10550i You shouldn't have a problem with the simple road cover, I agree. Gaskets and seals are not included in some of their plans, but Easy Street should cover this.

12111994 (884hp) Let us know how it goes. I also have Easy Street, but my '13 hasn't needed any repairs yet. Here is the section under "Exclusions" so it could probably go either way: N. Seals and gaskets, including head gaskets, unless required in connection with the replacement of a covered repair. (This exclusion does not apply to the Main Street or Easy Street plan). Fluid leakage is not a covered repair on all plans. Therefore, Easy Street covers gaskets and seals, but fluid seepage does not?

lakers01 (208hp) Seepage (the slow escape of oil) is not covered. Oil leaks (oil drops) are covered. Pictures may be required to justify oil leak repair.

20052009 (634hp) Hello guys, I'm looking for an F10 to buy from DHP. This seller says it has DHP but when I put the VIN in the decoder it only has adaptive drive but not dynamic drive or dynamic damper control. I can't tell if the VIN decoder is wrong or if the window sticker is wrong or if I'm misunderstanding something... https://www.nyautogallery.com/used/B...817bab2794.htm https:// www. mdecoder.com/decode/du73354

caca1234 (28hp) If I'm not mistaken, the XDrive doesn't get DHP.

F10msportnoob (722hp) Quote: Originally posted by danperson1 Hi guys, I'm looking for an F10 to buy with DHP. This seller says it has DHP but when I put the VIN in the decoder it only has adaptive drive but not dynamic drive or dynamic damper control. I can't tell if the Vin decoder is wrong or if the window sticker is wrong or if I'm misunderstanding something... Option 2VA is Adaptive Drive = Dynamic Drive + Dynamic Damping Control.

tiffany21 (95hp) Quote: Originally posted by HighlandPete Quote: Originally posted by danperson1 Hi guys, I'm looking for an F10 to buy with DHP. This seller says it has DHP but when I put the VIN in the decoder it only has adaptive drive but not dynamic drive or dynamic damper control. I can't tell if the Vin decoder is wrong or if the window sticker is wrong or if I'm misunderstanding something... Option 2VA is Adaptive Drive = Dynamic Drive + Dynamic Damping Control. Yes 2VA = DHP

170777 (370hp) Quote: Originally written by wcr3d If I'm not mistaken, the XDrive doesn't get DHP. In this rare case, you are wrong. My xDrive has dynamic dampers and active roll stabilization. I ordered it like this from the factory. OP, just in case you didn't know this: The 704 sports suspension was available for non-xDrive models, but it doesn't represent the DHP, but rather a static, sport-tuned suspension.

jjdurrant (11hp) Quote: Originally posted by mness Yes 2VA = DHP That's what I thought too, but looking at another example, more options are listed in the VIN decoder: https://www.mdecoder.com/decode/du58758 For example this VIN -Decoder lists dynamic drive and dynamic dampers, while the original Vin decoder I listed only lists 2VA. The fact that they are different worries me..

1234567890l (631hp) Quote: Originally posted by danperson1 That's what I thought too, but looking at another example, more options are listed in the VIN decoder: https://www.mdecoder.com/decode/du58758 This VIN decoder lists dynamic drives for example and on dynamic attenuators, while the original Vin decoder I listed only lists 2VA. The fact that they are different worries me. Options 223 + 229 = 2VA

cabana (611hp) Quote: Originally posted by HighlandPete Options 223 + 229 = 2VA Thanks, maybe in 2013 they only listed 2VA on the Vin decoder while in 2012 they listed 2VA, 223 and 229. Both cars are DHP

261 (733hp) Quote: Originally posted by danperson1 Hi guys, I'm looking for an F10 to buy with DHP. This seller says it has DHP but when I put the VIN in the decoder it only has adaptive drive but not dynamic drive or dynamic damper control. I can't tell if the VIN decoder is wrong or if the window sticker is wrong or if I'm misunderstanding something... https://www.nyautogallery.com/used/B...817bab2794.htm https:// www. mdecoder.com/decode/du73354 My suggestion would be to search Google/Internet for the price ordering guide for the model years prior to and including the year you are looking at. BMW is known for making changes during production. An option could be offered as a standalone option at some point and later integrated into a package... or it could not be available as a standalone option but only as a package. For example, the SVA package contains several options that may have been standalone in previous versions. If you are looking for the BMW F10 2010, 2011, 2012 and 2013 pricing and ordering guides in PDF format, you may encounter the mystery or confusion you are looking for.

Empiremotorsports (795hp) Quote: Originally written by Qsilver7. My suggestion would be to search Google/internet for the price ordering guide for the model years prior to and including the year you are looking at. BMW is known for making changes during production. An option could be offered as a standalone option at some point and later integrated into a package... or it could not be available as a standalone option but only as a package. For example, the SVA package contains several options that may have been standalone in previous versions. If you are looking for the BMW F10 2010, 2011, 2012 and 2013 pricing and ordering guides in PDF format, you may encounter the mystery or confusion you are looking for. Excellent advice, thank you.

charliebrown (585hp) FYI: Exactly as suspected...it looks like BMW has changed the DHP (Dynamic Handling Package) bundling name. In the early ordering and pricing guides... DHP nomenclature and bundling option codes are: ZJY - Dynamic Handling Package 223 - Dynamic Damper Control 229 - Dynamic Drive 2VA - Adaptive Drive Later the DHP nomenclature and bundling changed to: ZDH - Dynamic Handling Package 2VA Adaptive Drive: Active roll stabilization and dynamic damper control. When ordering with ZMP, 704 is deleted

shiver (615hp) Quote: Originally written by Qsilver7 FYI: Exactly as suspected...it looks like BMW has changed the DHP (Dynamic Handling Package) bundling nomenclature. In the early ordering and pricing guides... DHP nomenclature and bundling option codes are: ZJY - Dynamic Handling Package 223 - Dynamic Damper Control 229 - Dynamic Drive 2VA - Adaptive Drive Later the DHP nomenclature and bundling changed to: ZDH - Dynamic Handling Package 2VA Adaptive Drive: Active roll stabilization and dynamic damper control. Will be deleted 704 when ordering from ZMP. Thank you!

egearberk (726hp) If you have the opportunity to get under the car, you will be able to figure this out very quickly. Look for wires protruding from the bottom of the shocks or a small module attached to the bottom of the shocks. If you try to peek through the bottom cover while looking at the sway bar you will almost see a large cylinder back in the middle of the sway bar with a wire/harness leading to it. If you have these two things, you have what BMW says is the best suspension).

iceman335 (518hp) Hello guys, I'm looking for an F10 to buy from DHP. This seller says it has DHP but when I put the VIN in the decoder it only has adaptive drive but not dynamic drive or dynamic damper control. I can't tell if the VIN decoder is wrong or if the window sticker is wrong or if I'm misunderstanding something... https://www.nyautogallery.com/used/B...817bab2794.htm https:// www. mdecoder.com/decode/du73354

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