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| gr33nday (753hp) | Thank you for the input, I will let you know the result. The only information I have besides the equipped extras is that the owner has gone bankrupt and the bank now wants this car liquidated as quickly as possible.
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| sergej_de_sad (666hp) | The vehicle is not equipped with winter tires, so there will be no test drive in the near future. Too bad. 😔,
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| 197828 (940hp) | Quote: Originally posted on Tuesday. If the offer is good enough, grab it. I saved a crazy amount of money buying a 2013 model - a ridiculous amount, so it was worth it for me. I still have plenty of tech, 704 suspension and NBT so apart from the TU engine and a few cosmetic changes I don't feel left behind. I agree. I got a 535 The 2013 550 is already crazy fast compared to your last car and the improved fuel economy of the '14 model isn't offset by the difference in purchase price.
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| dragon86 (932hp) | +1 compared to 2013. The cost savings are probably well worth it. I leased a 2013 instead of waiting for a 2014 because (a) it was a lease and (b) I'm paying what those who leased a 535xi are paying for an $80,000 550xi. No problem – the updates are great
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| hell12 (152hp) | A word about the 2013 and 2014 models. We have both and I'm not sure if it's the model line, but the steering is noticeably different between the two. Our 2013 528 feels a lot less connected and a lot lighter. It's perfect for long trips and cruises, but not particularly sporty. The 2014 550, on the other hand, feels much heavier, better weighted and more responsive/connected. It's almost as if BMW changed the steering for 2014 to silence all the critics who have complained about the lack of connection between driver and road in recent years. (Sorry for the run on the sentence)
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| BobsM3Coupe (858hp) | Quote: Originally posted by ezmaass That's a pretty big change! I always scratch my head when I see a car for sale that is a year old or less. Immediately I start thinking: Why did someone keep this new car for a year or less? I'm sure there are many legitimate reasons, but there may also be many reasons related to the car itself. Unless I can determine without a doubt that the car has nothing to do with the quick turn, I would stay away from it. This may be silly, but it's in my nature to be conservative. Even if the car is still under warranty, if there are significant problems it can be very annoying and inconvenient. OR it could just be that someone bought it, rode it around for a bit, and decided they wanted the next model when it came out, or something else...great. But I definitely need to know that. There can be many reasons for this. One of them is that there are a lot of people with a lot of money who get bored easily. However, any concerns can be easily addressed by going to the customer service department with the VIN number and asking them to print out the vehicle's service history. Here you can find out exactly what work was carried out on the vehicle by a BMW dealer in the country.
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| 5times (887hp) | Quote: Originally posted by nal13 A word about the 2013 and 2014 models. We have both and I'm not sure if it's the model line, but the steering is significantly different between the two. Our 2013 528 feels a lot less connected and a lot lighter. It's perfect for long trips and cruises, but not particularly sporty. The 2014 550, on the other hand, feels much heavier, better weighted and more responsive/connected. It's almost as if BMW changed the steering for 2014 to silence all the critics who have complained about the lack of connection between driver and road in recent years. (Sorry for the interlude) You can't compare the steering feel of a 528 and a 550 and explain it with LCI updates. The steering systems of the different models are tuned differently, the 528 is more like a Buick and the 550 is sportier. While the LCI vehicles did see a slight improvement in steering feel, most automotive journalists didn't notice much of a difference. The 550 M Sport also has more steering effort compared to a non-M Sport 550..
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| 05031996 (411hp) | Quote: Originally written by Grover432 You can't compare the steering feel of a 528 and a 550 and explain it with LCI updates. The steering systems of the different models are tuned differently, the 528 is more like a Buick and the 550 is sportier. While the LCI vehicles did see a slight improvement in steering feel, most automotive journalists didn't notice much of a difference. The 550 M Sport also has more steering effort compared to a non-M Sport 550. That's why when I read my post I said I wasn't sure. It's just an observation I made
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| monique12 (999hp) | Quote: Originally written by Grover432 You can't compare the steering feel of a 528 and a 550 and explain it with LCI updates. The steering systems of the different models are tuned differently, the 528 is more like a Buick and the 550 is sportier. While the LCI vehicles did see a slight improvement in steering feel, most automotive journalists didn't notice much of a difference. The 550 M Sport also has higher steering effort compared to a non-M Sport 550. I can confirm that I felt the difference in the steering. I had been thinking about upgrading to the 5 Series about a year ago, and the car's lighter, slightly less connected feel was actually one of the reasons I decided against it. For me the steering is noticeably different now in the 2014 - much more like the 3 Series feel I came from. However, it should be noted that the steering on the pre-LCI vehicles was completely accurate and precise. In my opinion, the main complaint was that it simply lacked the feedback (related to driving feel) that you get with classic hydraulic systems, and that the all-electric system lacked some of the traditional feel - leading to reviewers (for example C&D) Used words like “…” so deaf to describe it. Still, they admitted that it was more about feel than actual precision. The driving dynamics switch can adjust more weight to counteract the light feeling, but it can no longer help you feel the road better. For the OP, you would really have to drive both to see if you care. I know a lot of people are looking for a better deal, and if you can save $5,000, $8,000, etc., it's worth it for some. In my opinion, this is a pretty expensive car. My MSRP was $86,000 including change. Like my previous BMWs, I'll probably keep this one for several years, and I want to be 100% happy when I spend that kind of money - so the difference of $5,000 or $8,000 in cost is a rounding error when I calculate it in context. Personally, it would probably take a much larger savings to make it worth trading in the LCI updates for me. When it comes to savings, you also need to consider how much you ACTUALLY save. If you lease, that’s one thing – that doesn’t apply. But if you buy, you'll have to sell the car at some point. Generally, if you buy something for less money, you will sell it for less. It's a model year older and the pre-LCI and post-LCI models may become more relevant to future buyers (time will tell). What you actually pay to own the car is the difference between your purchase and sale price. So if you consider the sales prices of both cars over three years, an $8,000 savings might be more like a $4,000 savings. If you go by KBB, you'll find that the price difference between model year values (2011 and 2012) for the same options on a moderately equipped 550 is about $3.5k to $4.5k. So would you have bought a 2011? When the 2012s just came out and offered $8,000 in savings up front, if you were to sell one of these cars today, you'd get an average of $4,000 more for the 2012 - so just $4,000 save 2011, not $8,000. So when thinking about forgoing the newer model year and its associated updates, dropping an $8,000 savings to $4,000 may suddenly seem less attractive to some. Again, if you lease, this probably doesn't matter. If it was a 535 I would.
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| mommy24 (938hp) | Quote: Originally posted by ezmaass I can confirm that I felt the difference in the steering. I had been thinking about upgrading to the 5 Series about a year ago, and the car's lighter, slightly less connected feel was actually one of the reasons I decided against it. For me the steering is noticeably different now in the 2014 - much more like the 3 Series feel I came from. However, it should be noted that the steering on the pre-LCI vehicles was completely accurate and precise. In my opinion, the main complaint was that it simply lacked the feedback (related to driving feel) that you get with classic hydraulic systems, and that the all-electric system lacked some of the traditional feel - leading to reviewers (for example C&D) Used words like “…” so deaf to describe it. Still, they admitted that it was more about feel than actual precision. The driving dynamics switch can adjust more weight to counteract the light feeling, but it can no longer help you feel the road better. For the OP, you would really have to drive both to see if you care. I know a lot of people are looking for a better deal, and if you can save $5,000, $8,000, etc., it's worth it for some. In my opinion, this is a pretty expensive car. My MSRP was $86,000 including change. Like my previous BMWs, I'll probably keep this one for several years, and I want to be 100% happy when I spend that kind of money - so the difference of $5,000 or $8,000 in cost is a rounding error when I calculate it in context. Personally, it would probably take a much larger savings to make it worth trading in the LCI updates for me. When it comes to savings, you also need to consider how much you ACTUALLY save. If you lease, that’s one thing – that doesn’t apply. But if you buy, you'll have to sell the car at some point. Generally, if you buy something for less money, you will sell it for less. It's a model year older and the pre-LCI and post-LCI models may become more relevant to future buyers (time will tell). What you actually pay to own the car is the difference between your purchase and sale price. So if you consider the sales prices of both cars over three years, an $8,000 savings might be more like a $4,000 savings. If you go by KBB, you'll find that the price difference between model year values (2011 and 2012) for the same options on a moderately equipped 550 is about $3.5k to $4.5k. So would you have bought a 2011? When the 2012s just came out and offered $8,000 in savings up front, if you were to sell one of these cars today, you'd get an average of $4,000 more for the 2012 - so just $4,000 save 2011, not $8,000. So when thinking about forgoing the newer model year and its associated updates, dropping an $8,000 savings to $4,000 may suddenly seem less attractive to some. Again, if you lease, this probably doesn't matter. If it were a 535 I might put less emphasis on the pre/post LCI. However, given the importance of the LCI engine updates (injectors, Valvetronic, additional HP/TQ, economy, oil consumption, etc.) to a 550, I would closely examine whether the savings are significant enough to justify the trade-off. And if you really want to upgrade to the previous version of LCI, then why not take advantage of every penny of savings you can get and buy it?
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| NATHAN (988hp) | Quote: Originally written by Grover432 Once the next generation 5 Series comes out, there won't be much of a difference in value between pre-LCI and post-LCI vehicles. The value difference you use as an example concerns generation change vehicles and not an update like the current LCI. I appreciate that the LCI has more horsepower, but that's more about competing with MB than about the need for more power. As for the steering changes, I'm not an expert, I'm just relying on what all the auto journalists have said, no major changes. I think the real change will come with the next generation. As for the rounding error, if the OP had one, why would he have asked the question in the first place? The example I used was for 2011 and 2012 - both before LCI F10. Given that there can be a $4,000 difference in value within the same model just one year apart, do I assume this can easily continue or even go beyond the LCI gap? Once the next generation comes out, I think it will have an equally negative impact on the resale of all F10s. But we still have about three years before this becomes a problem. I don't know - I hear the argument about saving a few bucks, but I personally can't understand it. For anyone buying a 550, I think a few grand in either direction isn't going to make or break it... so it really has to come down to the savings being of greater value than the newer MY, updates, etc.
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| angell1 (378hp) | I saved over $20,000 when I bought a car in 2013 - that car drove like a city bus and I would still love it.
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| elenst14 (185hp) | Can you powder coat the rims on your lease??
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| Jeppe76 (97hp) | You can find the answer to this question in your rental agreement – and only there.
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| riley5 (917hp) | Quote: Originally posted by STACKZ89 Can you powder coat the wheels on your lease? I agree that the last resort for questions like this is to consult your rental agreement. However, in my experience with leasing, they generally want to get the car back exactly as you received it, with a few exceptions. They won't stop you from making changes while in their possession (they won't yell at you when you take the car in for service, for example), but once you return it, they'll note anything that's wrong during the inspection correctly and charge you for it. BMW, like many other companies, gives you some leeway when it comes to things like scratches. They have a formula for the number of acceptable scratches per panel, and I remember they used to have a little paper tool that would let you see as a cutout whether a scratch or dent was larger or smaller - whether you were one fee is charged or not. You must also return the car with original tires and at least approximately 9/32 tread. Many people take off the run-flat tires and put other tires on. Well, a set of OEM run-flats, even with a discount at the tire rack, can cost around $1,400 to $1,500. Putting brand new tires on a car at the end of the lease to return it stinks. That's why some people take them down up front, keep them, and reinstall them at the end of the lease. But there may also be an argument for simply purchasing other wheels and tires that you plan to sell to someone else at the end of your lease - this will keep your leased tires and wheels in good condition so they can be reinstalled at the end. There are many things to consider when leasing. Imagine buying and selling the car in essentially the same transaction. You bought it with the agreement to sell it X months later with Y mileage and in Z condition for A price. The Z condition will definitely be listed in the rental agreement. But if you're thinking about heavily modifying a car, I don't think leasing is the way to go.
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| MaStEr77 (91hp) | Oh man... luckily I haven't made many modifications to my car.
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| chopper12 (791hp) | Wow lol thanks, I guess I can't
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| violon (224hp) | Quote: Originally posted by STACKZ89 Wow lol thanks, I guess I can't do that. Not unless you plan to correct it before returning the car. Or if you plan to buy it at the end of the lease, do whatever floats your boat.
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| duval1 (893hp) | Lol, do you know how many people on this forum lease their cars? A good amount. Just keep your stock parts.
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| yfl.irf (327hp) | If you end up bartering and not handing it in, you can get away with it.
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| rockydog1 (917hp) | If you're willing to lease another BMW at the end of your term, you can get away with a lot more. I've found that it's difficult to get clear answers about what you can and can't do with a leased car. Have you ever thought about vinyl packaging???
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| gPiplay (564hp) | Or you can sell the car at any time before the lease expires.
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| 198080 (669hp) | Do whatever you want with the wheels. When it's time to return them, you can safely buy a set on this forum for about $1,000 or exchange it for another MBR..
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| GARBAJ (660hp) | Quote: Originally written by BigMas If you're willing to lease another BMW at the end of your term, you can get away with a lot more. I've found that it's difficult to get clear answers about what you can and can't do with a leased car. Have you ever thought about vinyl packaging? You can wrap a rim with vinyl?
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| thanku (846hp) | You can have your rims finished with PlastiDipping black and simply peel it off when you want them back in stock. Not as nice as powder coating, but close.
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| blondie101 (585hp) | Can you powder coat the rims on your lease??
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| raindrop1 (426hp) | You can find the answer to this question in your rental agreement – and only there.
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| wheelguy123 (106hp) | Quote: Originally posted by STACKZ89 Can you powder coat the wheels on your lease? I agree that the last resort for questions like this is to consult your rental agreement. However, in my experience with leasing, they generally want to get the car back exactly as you received it, with a few exceptions. They won't stop you from making changes while in their possession (they won't yell at you when you take the car in for service, for example), but once you return it, they'll note anything that's wrong during the inspection correctly and charge you for it. BMW, like many other companies, gives you some leeway when it comes to things like scratches. They have a formula for the number of acceptable scratches per panel, and I remember they used to have a little paper tool that would let you see as a cutout whether a scratch or dent was larger or smaller - whether you were one fee is charged or not. You must also return the car with original tires and at least approximately 9/32 tread. Many people take off the run-flat tires and put other tires on. Well, a set of OEM run-flats, even with a discount at the tire rack, can cost around $1,400 to $1,500. Putting brand new tires on a car at the end of the lease to return it stinks. That's why some people take them down up front, keep them, and reinstall them at the end of the lease. But there may also be an argument for simply purchasing other wheels and tires that you plan to sell to someone else at the end of your lease - this will keep your leased tires and wheels in good condition so they can be reinstalled at the end. There are many things to consider when leasing. Imagine buying and selling the car in essentially the same transaction. You bought it with the agreement to sell it X months later with Y mileage and in Z condition for A price. The Z condition will definitely be listed in the rental agreement. But if you're thinking about heavily modifying a car, I don't think leasing is the way to go.
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| 11061987 (408hp) | Oh man... luckily I haven't made many modifications to my car.
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| bljS2v85pT (462hp) | Wow lol thanks, I guess I can't
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| 284655 (698hp) | Quote: Originally posted by STACKZ89 Wow lol thanks, I guess I can't do that. Not unless you plan to correct it before returning the car. Or if you plan to buy it at the end of the lease, do whatever floats your boat.
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| chelsea3 (21hp) | Lol, do you know how many people on this forum lease their cars? A good amount. Just keep your stock parts.
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| timmy9 (839hp) | If you end up bartering and not handing it in, you can get away with it.
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| getrdone (680hp) | If you're willing to lease another BMW at the end of your term, you can get away with a lot more. I've found that it's difficult to get clear answers about what you can and can't do with a leased car. Have you ever thought about vinyl packaging???
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| colombiano (223hp) | Or you can sell the car at any time before the lease expires.
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| miss (769hp) | Do whatever you want with the wheels. When it's time to return them, you can safely buy a set on this forum for about $1,000 or exchange it for another MBR..
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| Jones530d (43hp) | Quote: Originally written by BigMas If you're willing to lease another BMW at the end of your term, you can get away with a lot more. I've found that it's difficult to get clear answers about what you can and can't do with a leased car. Have you ever thought about vinyl packaging? You can wrap a rim with vinyl?
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| katrinka (880hp) | You can have your rims finished with PlastiDipping black and simply peel it off when you want them back in stock. Not as nice as powder coating, but close.
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| charang (325hp) | Hi guys, I have a 2012 528i. I would like to upgrade my low beam headlights to 6k and also convert the fog lights to 6k. What are our members' best/most used kits? I don't care about the price. I don't want a cheap kit with an 8 month shelf life. Any suggestions or opinions are welcome. Thanks guys!
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| 10031977 (615hp) | In my experience you won't get better lighting with an HID kit. I've done three of these, always thinking or blaming the quality of the kit, but it's not the bulb that makes the difference, it's the reflector. Yes, the light is whiter and brighter, but the illumination is no better and is many times worse than the original halogen light. The higher the temperature of the bulb you use, the higher the blue/purple color and the lower the output. If you only care about looks, my comments are irrelevant – just go for it
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| krystle (125hp) | Quote: Originally written by 1HOT BMR In my experience you don't get better lighting with an HID kit. I've done three of these, always thinking or blaming the quality of the kit, but it's not the bulb that makes the difference, it's the reflector. Yes, the light is whiter and brighter, but the illumination is no better and is many times worse than the original halogen light. The higher the temperature of the bulb you use, the higher the blue/purple color and the lower the output. If you only care about looks, my comments are irrelevant – just go for it. Agreed. The yellow tone gives your nighttime lighting more density. The whiter the light, the thinner the illumination.
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| death2 (982hp) | Yes, I noticed that. The 6K color actually has fewer lumens than the standard version. Thank you for the answers. I appreciate that!!!!
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| enfermagem (999hp) | Morimoto Morimoto is the only aftermarket brand I have ever chosen for factory halogen retrofits. Osram This states that a color temperature of 5K allows reflectors and signage to fluoresce better than the standard 4700K lamps. With the Xenarcs you get more power for the same wattage, so this is your workaround for the problem presented here. When you have the dough, swap them. I would do it in a heartbeat, but once a month the car eats up my extra money in the form of a lease payment. Tell us what you imagine for your car.
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| chloe06 (908hp) | +++ Morimoto..http://www.theretrofitsource.com/hid-systems.html
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| 20121988 (298hp) | +1 for Morimoto. I have 4300K in my nebulae and it's bright as hell.
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| parvati (770hp) | Morimoto from Retrofit Source. As everyone else has said, 6000K is probably the highest temperature you want. Look at the lumen rating and this will give you information about the light output. You want to stay in the 4300K to 6000K range. As the K rating increases, the number of lumens decreases, which also reduces the lighting functionality.
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| G80indy (120hp) | Hi guys, I have a 2012 528i. I would like to upgrade my low beam headlights to 6k and also convert the fog lights to 6k. What are our members' best/most used kits? I don't care about the price. I don't want a cheap kit with an 8 month shelf life. Any suggestions or opinions are welcome. Thanks guys!
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| cowboys33 (44hp) | In my experience you won't get better lighting with an HID kit. I've done three of these, always thinking or blaming the quality of the kit, but it's not the bulb that makes the difference, it's the reflector. Yes, the light is whiter and brighter, but the illumination is no better and is many times worse than the original halogen light. The higher the temperature of the bulb you use, the higher the blue/purple color and the lower the output. If you only care about looks, my comments are irrelevant – just go for it
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| coolcool1 (991hp) | Quote: Originally written by 1HOT BMR In my experience you don't get better lighting with an HID kit. I've done three of these, always thinking or blaming the quality of the kit, but it's not the bulb that makes the difference, it's the reflector. Yes, the light is whiter and brighter, but the illumination is no better and is many times worse than the original halogen light. The higher the temperature of the bulb you use, the higher the blue/purple color and the lower the output. If you only care about looks, my comments are irrelevant – just go for it. Agreed. The yellow tone gives your nighttime lighting more density. The whiter the light, the thinner the illumination.
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| Dartmouth (704hp) | Yes, I noticed that. The 6K color actually has fewer lumens than the standard version. Thank you for the answers. I appreciate that!!!!
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| k123098 (143hp) | Morimoto Morimoto is the only aftermarket brand I have ever chosen for factory halogen retrofits. Osram This states that a color temperature of 5K allows reflectors and signage to fluoresce better than the standard 4700K lamps. With the Xenarcs you get more power for the same wattage, so this is your workaround for the problem presented here. When you have the dough, swap them. I would do it in a heartbeat, but once a month the car eats up my extra money in the form of a lease payment. Tell us what you imagine for your car.
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| Molly1 (805hp) | +++ Morimoto..http://www.theretrofitsource.com/hid-systems.html
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| Molly123 (156hp) | +1 for Morimoto. I have 4300K in my nebulae and it's bright as hell.
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| sharpay (999hp) | Morimoto from Retrofit Source. As everyone else has said, 6000K is probably the highest temperature you want. Look at the lumen rating and this will give you information about the light output. You want to stay in the 4300K to 6000K range. As the K rating increases, the number of lumens decreases, which also reduces the lighting functionality.
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| ashely (889hp) | My last posts and comments were all about my dilapidated vehicle and the extensive repair saga. I thought I would post a few photos of the garage floor coating I just did. I think it turned out pretty cool.
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| billy1234 (947hp) | Looks good! Now that your car is healthy again, it will definitely appreciate this flooring! :-)
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| chris4life (658hp) | Quote: Originally posted by ezmaass Looks good! Now that your car is healthy again, it will surely appreciate this floor! :-) Thanks. Let's hope so!
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| 17071984 (349hp) | Nice looking floor!
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| tiger1234 (837hp) | Quote: Originally written by Akkord29. Nice looking floor! Thanks.
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| brunito (649hp) | What a relief. When I saw your name and headline I expected photos of a puddle of motor oil.
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| greenlight (735hp) | Yes, I press the brake pedal hard and as soon as I accelerate past the kickdown switch (click) the car tries to push forward, which is not good as that means the transmission is engaged and not in the LC mode. I guess I'll go to the dealer, but I bet it's something they didn't add/update when the car was delivered..
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| 22031988 (825hp) | zzz – can you tell us about the installation process? I've been thinking about doing something with the garage floor, but there are many options to consider. I'm curious what your thought process was here - what did you consider, how did the installation go, etc. Next up, drywall and insulation for these exterior walls? I have to keep the BMW as warm as possible!
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| gohan (897hp) | 1- Let the car warm up and drive a few miles. 2. Set the car to SPORT+. 3. Move the shift lever to the left (Sport) position. 4. Depress the brake pedal firmly and fully. At the same time, press the accelerator pedal all the way down. If you do it right, the car shouldn't move forward. You have 3* seconds to release the brake and start the car. A flag should appear on the cluster on the right. If that's not clear enough then I think you have a lemon or a defect.
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| vimala (618hp) | Pretty! I really like the pebble grain epoxy on my garage floor, but this design you added takes it to another level. Well done.
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| 270295 (668hp) | I understand the reason for the 3 seconds, but out of curiosity: Is the car forcing the 3 seconds or is it the driver's fault??
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| wow1234 (210hp) | Very nice what it is made of?
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| vasquez1 (818hp) | Someone at zf reading this thread just got a huge bonus
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| babygurl9 (10hp) | Quote: Originally posted by raleedy What a relief. When I saw your name and headline I expected photos of a puddle of motor oil. Luckily no! A week or more... and the problems haven't recurred.
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| 669966 (962hp) | Quote: Originally written by varun Yes, I hold the brake pedal firmly down and as soon as I step on the accelerator past the kickdown switch (click) the car tries to push forward, which is not good as that means the transmission is indented, and not in LC mode. I guess I'll go to the dealer, but I bet it's something they didn't add/update when the car was delivered. You want to make sure you press the accelerator down quickly, this can't be a gradual press.
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| ladybug08 (20hp) | Quote: Originally written by ezmaass zzz - can you tell us about the installation process? I've been thinking about doing something with the garage floor, but there are many options to consider. I'm curious what your thought process was here - what did you consider, how did the installation go, etc. Next up, drywall and insulation for these exterior walls? I need to keep this BMW as warm as possible! The coating I chose is called Stardek. It was done by the same guy I used to do the concrete around my new pool last summer. For any STL folks who come across this thread and are interested, you can find his information here (his website needs updating...). The Stardek product is most commonly used on pool decks, patios, driveways and walkways, but is also great for garage floors. Ultimately we chose this route because of the design work I wanted. The process includes degreasing and pressure washing the floor and then applying the colored textured base coat. Once dry you can begin taping/masking the design. The design is based on the premise of covering areas and applying the texture to achieve the desired design, such as: B. Tiles, flagstones, bricks, slate, granite, etc. The final step consists of two coats of applied sealer. The whole process took me a little longer because it was very cold at times while I was working and because I had them re-tape the subway pattern floor instead of laying the original diagonal pattern. I think it took about 5 working days in total. The floor is easy to clean, just like my pool deck, and is very sturdy because the product is actually bonded to the concrete. The only thing you need to pay attention to is gasoline. Spills that are cleaned up quickly won't cause any damage, but if left to soak, they will eat through the coating. The oil can be easily wiped off without causing any damage. Aggregates (quartz) are added while the sealer is still wet to give the coating a non-slip texture. I got a very good deal on the garage floor, partly because my husband likes me to do a little more creative stuff and he can take photos and show it to future clients, and partly because it's winter and he needs the work . He told me that he would normally charge between $3.00 and $3.50 per square foot for a job like mine. He can apply the boring two coat color sealer (a different product than the one I used) for about $2.00 per square foot. This may be more information than you wanted...plus you add some work in progress images and some pictures of the pool. You'll never ask me a question again... Oh... the garage actually stays pretty warm since the doors are insulated and the house is all brick, 45°F in the garage today even though the high in STL is only 15 °C was °F. I'll probably just hang more pegboards on the still bare walls.
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| 250293 (288hp) | Yes, I followed all of the above with no success. Dropped it off today, let's see what they get back. On a side note, I'm in a new 535i loaner. Impressive performance and efficiency for what it is, but not remotely comparable to the N63tu engine. Many told me to look at the 535i when I was in the market, but it's not even in the same range. The power of the V8 in the 550 is something else, and I'm already bored after a day with the smaller engine!
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| 050993 (239hp) | Looks very nice, where is the car now???
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| santos123 (972hp) | Quote: Originally posted by varun Yup, after following all the above points with no success. Dropped it off today, let's see what they get back. On a side note, I'm in a new 535i loaner. Impressive performance and efficiency for what it is, but not remotely comparable to the N63tu engine. Many told me to look at the 535i when I was in the market, but it's not even in the same range. The power of the V8 in the 550 is something else and after a day with the smaller engine I'm already bored! Agreed. Before the 550 I had an E90 335 (N54). I thought I would be happy with the 535, even though I knew the extra weight would make it more sluggish. I was just getting into it when I put the economy on the curb and tested the 550. When I got to a stoplight there was an idiot in a Camry in front of me trying to pass me from the finish line because the two lanes merged. Normally I'd let guys like this drive... but it was a test drive and a nice opportunity (excuse) to put my foot down and see what all the fuss was about. Let's just say that sold it. I've now covered 1,000 miles, am almost done with the break-in period, and am looking forward to using this car's power more liberally...including testing the launch control. If you don't mind a few extra bucks at the pump, I think the 550 is the perfect compromise. I say compromises because most 550 owners really want an M5 (at least I would have) but needed things like xDrive and a more compliant DD suspension etc. If the next-gen M5 has an xDrive option, it could be the perfect 5 Series. Until then I think the 550 offers truly amazing performance and comfort in a basic DD car.
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| 220493 (27hp) | Quote: Originally written by SonicEndeavor Nice! I really like the pebble grain epoxy on my garage floor, but this design you added takes it to another level. Well done. Thanks! Quote: Originally written by remmib Very nice, what is it made of? Thanks! I used Stardek. Further information can be found in article no. 11.
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| 16071989 (260hp) | Yes, I press the brake pedal hard and as soon as I accelerate past the kickdown switch (click) the car tries to push forward, which is not good as that means the transmission is engaged and not in the LC mode. I guess I'll go to the dealer, but I bet it's something they didn't add/update when the car was delivered..
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| adidas21 (435hp) | Quote: Originally written by DINAN_GT Looks very good, where is the car now? Thanks...I shot one of the girl just for you...
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| cshrc (154hp) | 1- Let the car warm up and drive a few miles. 2. Set the car to SPORT+. 3. Move the shift lever to the left (Sport) position. 4. Depress the brake pedal firmly and fully. At the same time, press the accelerator pedal all the way down. If you do it right, the car shouldn't move forward. You have 3* seconds to release the brake and start the car. A flag should appear on the cluster on the right. If that's not clear enough then I think you have a lemon or a defect.
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| nkadisha (810hp) | Nice ride. Also did a good job on the garage floor.
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| catriona (935hp) | I understand the reason for the 3 seconds, but out of curiosity: Is the car forcing the 3 seconds or is it the driver's fault??
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| j8675309 (882hp) | The garage looks great except the Jeep...lol
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| fastcars (378hp) | Someone at zf reading this thread just got a huge bonus
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| 400053 (799hp) | Quote: Originally written by Luminor513 Nice ride. Also did a good job on the garage floor. Thank you very much! Quote: Originally written by gtmassive75. The garage looks great except the Jeep...lol I thought I'd get a comment on this...That's my daughter's ride. I'm hoping in a few years I can reclaim the third bay and park something in it for crafting, maybe an old 2002 for example... I've got to get these damn kids out of college first. At the moment two out of three parking spaces are filled with BMWs (me – 550i, my wife – Mini Cooper S) – not too shabby.
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| 28091986 (589hp) | Quote: Originally written by varun Yes, I hold the brake pedal firmly down and as soon as I step on the accelerator past the kickdown switch (click) the car tries to push forward, which is not good as that means the transmission is indented, and not in LC mode. I guess I'll go to the dealer, but I bet it's something they didn't add/update when the car was delivered. You want to make sure you press the accelerator down quickly, this can't be a gradual press.
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| ilovezac1 (336hp) | zzz - very nice and thank you for the detailed contribution! This is great, I enjoyed seeing the process pictures. I've been thinking about doing something with the garage floor but can't decide what. I'm also interested in repaving and heating the driveway... Yeah, I guess a few bad winters with blowing snow will result in spending silly money on things like driveway heating! But that will be a pretty penny and major project – it will have to wait until spring. What made you give up the diagonal pattern? And when you say that stored gasoline can cause harm, are there any other guidelines? I usually keep a few cans in the garage, and to be honest I'm sure there's a little overflow here and there - it's usually cleaned straight away, but I'd hate to miss a spec and find out it ruined the floor. The pool also looks great. I think it outperforms traditional pavers in terms of maintenance and cost.
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| RedBarron (141hp) | Yes, I followed all of the above with no success. Dropped it off today, let's see what they get back. On a side note, I'm in a new 535i loaner. Impressive performance and efficiency for what it is, but not remotely comparable to the N63tu engine. Many told me to look at the 535i when I was in the market, but it's not even in the same range. The power of the V8 in the 550 is something else, and I'm already bored after a day with the smaller engine!
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| sexgod1 (741hp) | Quote: Originally written by ezmaass zzz – very nice and thank you for the detailed post! This is great, I enjoyed seeing the process pictures. I've been thinking about doing something with the garage floor but can't decide what. I'm also interested in repaving and heating the driveway... Yeah, I guess a few bad winters with blowing snow will result in spending silly money on things like driveway heating! But that will be a pretty penny and major project – it will have to wait until spring. What made you give up the diagonal pattern? And when you say that stored gasoline can cause harm, are there any other guidelines? I usually keep a few cans in the garage, and to be honest I'm sure there's a little overflow here and there - it's usually cleaned straight away, but I'd hate to miss a spec and find out it ruined the floor. The pool also looks great. I think it outperforms traditional pavers in terms of maintenance and cost. If there's a lot of snow, I wouldn't think it's foolish to have a heated ride, especially if you can afford it. For alignment reasons, we had to rework the layout for the diagonal design anyway, and I went with the subway style instead. I think it looks more like a garage. I don't have any further details on the petrol. My husband just said that it will eventually damage the surface. I assume it will destroy the surface if left uncleaned, but I don't think it's terribly corrosive. Ironically, the product is actually very resistant to hydrochloric acid... I won't sweat storing gas canisters in the garage, but I will probably fill up my lawn equipment on the driveway (until I coat my driveway...), just to to be sure. Yes, the pool deck turned out great, and it's definitely an easier solution than using pavers, flagstone, etc. The added benefit is the cool surface of the deck - you can walk over it barefoot in 100°C without burning yours Feet!
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| twinturbo (876hp) | Quote: Originally posted by varun Yup, after following all the above points with no success. Dropped it off today, let's see what they get back. On a side note, I'm in a new 535i loaner. Impressive performance and efficiency for what it is, but not remotely comparable to the N63tu engine. Many told me to look at the 535i when I was in the market, but it's not even in the same range. The power of the V8 in the 550 is something else and after a day with the smaller engine I'm already bored! Agreed. Before the 550 I had an E90 335 (N54). I thought I would be happy with the 535, even though I knew the extra weight would make it more sluggish. I was just getting into it when I put the economy on the curb and tested the 550. When I got to a stoplight there was an idiot in a Camry in front of me trying to pass me from the finish line because the two lanes merged. Normally I'd let guys like this drive... but it was a test drive and a nice opportunity (excuse) to put my foot down and see what all the fuss was about. Let's just say that sold it. I've now covered 1,000 miles, almost completed the break-in period, and am looking forward to playing more liberally with this car's performance...including testing the launch control. If you don't mind a few extra bucks at the pump, I think the 550 is the perfect compromise. I say compromises because most 550 owners really want an M5 (at least I would have) but needed things like xDrive and a more compliant DD suspension etc. If the next-gen M5 has an xDrive option, it could be the perfect 5 Series. Until then I think the 550 offers truly amazing performance and comfort in a basic DD car.
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| 061292 (253hp) | very nice!
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| qazwsx7 (927hp) | Quote: Originally written by blackboxmycar very nice! Thanks!
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| hawkins1 (283hp) | My last posts and comments were all about my dilapidated vehicle and the extensive repair saga. I thought I would post a few photos of the garage floor coating I just did. I think it turned out pretty cool.
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| babygirls (201hp) | Looks good! Now that your car is healthy again, it will definitely appreciate this flooring! :-)
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| anchorage (719hp) | Quote: Originally posted by ezmaass Looks good! Now that your car is healthy again, it will surely appreciate this floor! :-) Thanks. Let's hope so!
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| 2527 (268hp) | Nice looking floor!
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| jobs123 (312hp) | Quote: Originally written by Akkord29. Nice looking floor! Thanks.
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| Adriansideways (722hp) | What a relief. When I saw your name and headline I expected photos of a puddle of motor oil.
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| 16121979 (696hp) | zzz – can you tell us about the installation process? I've been thinking about doing something with the garage floor, but there are many options to consider. I'm curious what your thought process was here - what did you consider, how did the installation go, etc. Next up, drywall and insulation for these exterior walls? I have to keep the BMW as warm as possible!
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| annika1 (542hp) | Pretty! I really like the pebble grain epoxy on my garage floor, but this design you added takes it to another level. Well done.
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| lover. (340hp) | Very nice what it is made of?
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| newfie (68hp) | Quote: Originally posted by raleedy What a relief. When I saw your name and headline I expected photos of a puddle of motor oil. Luckily no! A week or more... and the problems haven't recurred.
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| Agni (921hp) | Quote: Originally written by ezmaass zzz - can you tell us about the installation process? I've been thinking about doing something with the garage floor, but there are many options to consider. I'm curious what your thought process was here - what did you consider, how did the installation go, etc. Next up, drywall and insulation for these exterior walls? I need to keep this BMW as warm as possible! The coating I chose is called Stardek. It was done by the same guy I used to do the concrete around my new pool last summer. For any STL folks who come across this thread and are interested, you can find his information here (his website needs updating...). The Stardek product is most commonly used on pool decks, patios, driveways and walkways, but is also great for garage floors. Ultimately we chose this route because of the design work I wanted. The process includes degreasing and pressure washing the floor and then applying the colored textured base coat. Once dry you can begin taping/masking the design. The design is based on the premise of covering areas and applying the texture to achieve the desired design, such as: B. Tiles, flagstones, bricks, slate, granite, etc. The final step consists of two coats of applied sealer. The whole process took me a little longer because it was very cold at times while I was working and because I had them re-tape the subway pattern floor instead of laying the original diagonal pattern. I think it took about 5 working days in total. The floor is easy to clean, just like my pool deck, and is very sturdy because the product is actually bonded to the concrete. The only thing you need to pay attention to is gasoline. Spills that are cleaned up quickly won't cause any damage, but if left to soak, they will eat through the coating. The oil can be easily wiped off without causing any damage. Aggregates (quartz) are added while the sealer is still wet to give the coating a non-slip texture. I got a very good deal on the garage floor, partly because my husband likes me to do a little more creative stuff and he can take photos and show it to future clients, and partly because it's winter and he needs the work . He told me that he would normally charge between $3.00 and $3.50 per square foot for a job like mine. He can apply the boring two coat color sealer (a different product than the one I used) for about $2.00 per square foot. This may be more information than you wanted...plus you add some work in progress images and some pictures of the pool. You'll never ask me a question again... Oh... the garage actually stays pretty warm since the doors are insulated and the house is all brick, 45°F in the garage today even though the high in STL is only 15 °C was °F. I'll probably just hang more pegboards on the still bare walls.
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| 1129 (85hp) | Looks very nice, where is the car now???
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| vfktymrbq (757hp) | Quote: Originally written by SonicEndeavor Nice! I really like the pebble grain epoxy on my garage floor, but this design you added takes it to another level. Well done. Thanks! Quote: Originally written by remmib Very nice, what is it made of? Thanks! I used Stardek. Further information can be found in article no. 11.
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| 13081987 (535hp) | Quote: Originally written by DINAN_GT Looks very good, where is the car now? Thanks...I shot one of the girl just for you...
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| kashmir (276hp) | Nice ride. Also did a good job on the garage floor.
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| mclean (551hp) | The garage looks great except the Jeep...lol
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| 200476 (155hp) | Quote: Originally written by Luminor513 Nice ride. Also did a good job on the garage floor. Thank you very much! Quote: Originally written by gtmassive75. The garage looks great except the Jeep...lol I thought I'd get a comment on this...That's my daughter's ride. I'm hoping in a few years I can reclaim the third bay and park something in it for crafting, maybe an old 2002 for example... I've got to get these damn kids out of college first. At the moment two out of three parking spaces are filled with BMWs (me – 550i, my wife – Mini Cooper S) – not too shabby.
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| 0401 (91hp) | zzz - very nice and thank you for the detailed contribution! This is great, I enjoyed seeing the process pictures. I've been thinking about doing something with the garage floor but can't decide what. I'm also interested in repaving and heating the driveway... Yeah, I guess a few bad winters with blowing snow will result in spending silly money on things like driveway heating! But that will be a pretty penny and major project – it will have to wait until spring. What made you give up the diagonal pattern? And when you say that stored gasoline can cause harm, are there any other guidelines? I usually keep a few cans in the garage, and to be honest I'm sure there's a little overflow here and there - it's usually cleaned straight away, but I'd hate to miss a spec and find out it ruined the floor. The pool also looks great. I think it outperforms traditional pavers in terms of maintenance and cost.
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| charger2 (235hp) | Quote: Originally written by ezmaass zzz – very nice and thank you for the detailed post! This is great, I enjoyed seeing the process pictures. I've been thinking about doing something with the garage floor but can't decide what. I'm also interested in repaving and heating the driveway... Yeah, I guess a few bad winters with blowing snow will result in spending silly money on things like driveway heating! But that will be a pretty penny and major project – it will have to wait until spring. What made you give up the diagonal pattern? And when you say that stored gasoline can cause harm, are there any other guidelines? I usually keep a few cans in the garage, and to be honest I'm sure there's a little overflow here and there - it's usually cleaned straight away, but I'd hate to miss a spec and find out it ruined the floor. The pool also looks great. I think it outperforms traditional pavers in terms of maintenance and cost. If there's a lot of snow, I wouldn't think it's foolish to have a heated ride, especially if you can afford it. For alignment reasons, we had to rework the layout for the diagonal design anyway, and I went with the subway style instead. I think it looks more like a garage. I don't have any further details on the petrol. My husband just said that it will eventually damage the surface. I assume it will destroy the surface if left uncleaned, but I don't think it's terribly corrosive. Ironically, the product is actually very resistant to hydrochloric acid... I won't sweat storing gas canisters in the garage, but I will probably fill up my lawn equipment on the driveway (until I coat my driveway...), just to to be sure. Yes, the pool deck turned out great, and it's definitely an easier solution than using pavers, flagstone, etc. The added benefit is the cool surface of the deck - you can walk over it barefoot in 100°C without burning yours Feet!
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| 12121991 (736hp) | very nice!
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| lynn13 (344hp) | Quote: Originally written by blackboxmycar very nice! Thanks!
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| hinder1 (439hp) | Hi guys, I'm looking for a black cover/trim for the M Sport gearshift, no fun for the BMW M Performance trim in carbon, I don't like the lines! No luck with my dealer, does anyone know if this is possible? Thanks.
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| 360001 (700hp) | Thanks Tuesday for the answer and the details! Just out of curiosity, is Tuesday the day you visit this forum? Quote: Originally posted by Tuesday P/N: 61319252139 Reference: http://www.realoem.com/bmw/showparts...75&hg=25&fg=15
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| cuppycake1 (761hp) | Quote: Originally posted by Martin Mustang Hi guys, I'm looking for a black cover/trim for the M Sport shifter, no fun for the BMW M Performance trim in carbon, I don't like the lines! No luck with my dealer, does anyone know if this is possible? Thanks. I have the following for sale. If interested, I would also consider selling the ceramic piece separately. PM me for details. http://f10.5post.com/forums/showthread.php?t=940643
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| 123456789az (352hp) | Hi guys, I'm looking for a black cover/trim for the M Sport gearshift, no fun for the BMW M Performance trim in carbon, I don't like the lines! No luck with my dealer, does anyone know if this is possible? Thanks.
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| inventor (632hp) | Thanks Tuesday for the answer and the details! Just out of curiosity, is Tuesday the day you visit this forum? Quote: Originally posted by Tuesday P/N: 61319252139 Reference: http://www.realoem.com/bmw/showparts...75&hg=25&fg=15
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| 25071991 (93hp) | Quote: Originally posted by Martin Mustang Hi guys, I'm looking for a black cover/trim for the M Sport shifter, no fun for the BMW M Performance trim in carbon, I don't like the lines! No luck with my dealer, does anyone know if this is possible? Thanks. I have the following for sale. If interested, I would also consider selling the ceramic piece separately. PM me for details. http://f10.5post.com/forums/showthread.php?t=940643
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| wangjing (802hp) | BIMMERPOST NEWSBMW 4 Series, 5 Series and i3 win Auto Motor und Sport Reader's Best Cars of 20140COMMENTSweet !function(d,s,id){var js,fjs=d.getElementsByTagName(s)[0],if(!d.getElementById(id )){js=d.createElement(s),js.id=id,js.src='https://platform.twitter.com/widgets.js',fjs.parentNode.insertBefore(js,fjs),} }(document,'script','twitter-wjs'), BMW wins auto motor und sport awards in the readers' choice BEST CARS 2014. January 30, 2014 Munich. BMW starts 2014 with four awards from the automobile magazine auto motor und sport. BMW i3 (combined fuel consumption: 0.6-0.0 l/100 km, combined CO2 emissions: 130 g/km), BMW 4 Series Coupé (combined fuel consumption : 8.4-4.6 l/100 km, combined CO2 emissions: 197-121). g/km) and BMW 5 Series (combined fuel consumption: 9.6-4.5 l/100 km, combined CO2 emissions: 224,119 g/km) emerged as winners in their respective categories. The BMW i3 was also awarded the International Paul Pietsch Award by the editor-in-chief of auto motor und sport and more than 30 international partner automobile magazines worldwide for its highly innovative technology. BMW's successful overall result in the readers' poll was underpinned by second places for the BMW 3 Series (combined fuel consumption: 8.2-4.1 l/100 km, combined CO2 emissions: 193-109 g/km), BMW 6 Series Gran Coupé (combined fuel consumption: 9.4-5.6 l/100 km, combined CO2 emissions: 219-146 g/km), BMW i8 (combined fuel consumption: 2.1 l/100 km, combined CO2 emissions: 49 g/km) and BMW X5 (combined fuel consumption: 10.5-5.6 l/100 km, combined CO2 emissions: 244149 g/km). The rankings at a glance: BMW i3: 1st place, small car BMW 4 Series Coupé: 1st place, middle class BMW 5 Series: 1st place, upper middle class BMW 3 Series: 2nd place, middle class BMW 6 Series Gran Coupé: 2nd place, luxury Performance BMW i8: 2nd place, BMW X5 sports car: 2nd place, BMW i3 off-road vehicle: Winner of the International Paul Pietsch Award Dr.-Ing. Norbert Reithofer, CEO of BMW AG, received the award for the BMW i3 as the best small car and the Special International Paul Pietsch Prize. Dr.-Ing. Herbert Diess, Member of the Board of Management of BMW AG, Development, accepted the award, which recognizes the success of the BMW 4 Series Coupé in the mid-size car category. The award for the BMW 5 Series as the best model in the upper middle class went to Dr. Ian Robertson, Member of the Board of Management of BMW AG, Sales and Marketing BMW, Sales Channels BMW Group. The award ceremony took place today as part of a celebratory gala event in Stuttgart. BMW i3: The BMW Group's first purely electrically powered mass-produced model ushers in a completely new era of mobility with its revolutionary vehicle concept and visionary design. The entire concept of the BMW i3 is geared towards electric drive. Unique selling points are the passenger cell made of carbon fiber reinforced plastic and an extensive range of innovative driver assistance systems and mobility services. With sustainable and locally emission-free mobility, typical BMW driving fun and high everyday suitability, the BMW i3 impressed readers with 26.6 percent of all votes cast and thus took first place in the small car category ranking. BMW 4 Series Coupé: The fourth generation of the BMW mid-range coupe sets new standards in terms of aesthetics and dynamics. Its stretched design promises a powerful appearance on the road as well as outstanding dynamics and pure driving pleasure. The 4 in the model name underlines the striking design and the stronger technological differentiation from the BMW 3 Series. The new BMW 4 Series Coupé is significantly wider and flatter than its predecessor and, with 17.5 percent of readers' votes, took first place in the mid-range automobile category. BMW 5 Series: The latest interpretation of the BMW 5 Series gives the model additional oomph.
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| food12 (334hp) | BIMMERPOST NEWSBMW 4 Series, 5 Series and i3 win Auto Motor und Sport Reader's Best Cars of 20140COMMENTSweet !function(d,s,id){var js,fjs=d.getElementsByTagName(s)[0],if(!d.getElementById(id )){js=d.createElement(s),js.id=id,js.src='https: //platform.twitter.com/widgets.js',fjs.parentNode.insertBefore(js,fjs),}}(document,'script','twitter-wjs'), BMW wins auto motor und sport awards in the readers' choice BEST CARS 2014. January 30, 2014 Munich. BMW starts 2014 with four awards from the automobile magazine auto motor und sport. BMW i3 (combined fuel consumption: 0.6-0.0 l/100 km, combined CO2 emissions: 130 g/km), BMW 4 Series Coupé (combined fuel consumption : 8.4-4.6 l/100 km, combined CO2 emissions: 197-121). g/km) and BMW 5 Series (combined fuel consumption: 9.6-4.5 l/100 km, combined CO2 emissions: 224,119 g/km) emerged as winners in their respective categories. The BMW i3 was also awarded the International Paul Pietsch Award by the editor-in-chief of auto motor und sport and more than 30 international partner automobile magazines worldwide for its highly innovative technology. BMW's successful overall result in the readers' poll was underpinned by second places for the BMW 3 Series (combined fuel consumption: 8.2-4.1 l/100 km, combined CO2 emissions: 193-109 g/km), BMW 6 Series Gran Coupé (combined fuel consumption: 9.4-5.6 l/100 km, combined CO2 emissions: 219-146 g/km), BMW i8 (fuel consumption combined: 2.1 l/100 km, combined CO2 emissions: 49 g/km) and BMW X5 (combined fuel consumption: 10.5-5.6 l/100 km, combined CO2 emissions: 244149 g/km). The rankings at a glance: BMW i3: 1st place, small car BMW 4 Series Coupé: 1st place, middle class BMW 5 Series: 1st place, upper middle class BMW 3 Series: 2nd place, middle class BMW 6 Series Gran Coupé: 2nd place, luxury Performance BMW i8: 2nd place, BMW X5 sports car: 2nd place, BMW i3 off-road vehicle: Winner of the International Paul Pietsch Award Dr.-Ing. Norbert Reithofer, CEO of BMW AG, received the award for the BMW i3 as the best small car and the Special International Paul Pietsch Prize. Dr.-Ing. Herbert Diess, Member of the Board of Management of BMW AG, Development, accepted the award, which recognizes the success of the BMW 4 Series Coupé in the mid-size car category. The award for the BMW 5 Series as the best model in the upper middle class went to Dr. Ian Robertson, Member of the Board of Management of BMW AG, Sales and Marketing BMW, Sales Channels BMW Group. The award ceremony took place today as part of a celebratory gala event in Stuttgart. BMW i3: The BMW Group's first purely electrically powered mass-produced model ushers in a completely new era of mobility with its revolutionary vehicle concept and visionary design. The entire concept of the BMW i3 is geared towards electric drive. Unique selling points are the passenger cell made of carbon fiber reinforced plastic and an extensive range of innovative driver assistance systems and mobility services. With sustainable and locally emission-free mobility, typical BMW driving fun and high everyday suitability, the BMW i3 impressed readers with 26.6 percent of all votes cast and thus took first place in the small car category ranking. BMW 4 Series Coupé: The fourth generation of the BMW mid-range coupe sets new standards in terms of aesthetics and dynamics. Its stretched design promises a powerful appearance on the road as well as outstanding dynamics and pure driving pleasure. The 4 in the model name underlines the striking design and the stronger technological differentiation from the BMW 3 Series. The new BMW 4 Series Coupé is significantly wider and flatter than its predecessor and, with 17.5 percent of readers' votes, took first place in the mid-range automobile category. BMW 5 Series: The latest interpretation of the BMW 5 Series gives the model additional oomph.
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| jamaica12 (979hp) | Picked up my June 13th 520d m-sport F11 prof nav this week, replacing the February 2011 520d SE f11 which I enjoyed for three years. Impressed with the improved ride. I like the animated menu features etc. Well, music isn't my thing. 99% of the time I'm alone in the car I'm listening to podcasts. In the old car I had difficulty recognizing podcasts on my iPhone 5, so I used a third party app and although I couldn't control it from the Prof Media system, playback ran fine when controlled from the car ( of course at a standstill). The new car didn't like that. Played for 2 seconds and then returned to the music on the phone. No problem I guess, I see that Prof Media's interface has been updated and podcasts (and audiobooks) are now a selectable menu item. I'm going to download the Apple Podcast app and here we go. Back in the car I now have the official app and a bunch of downloaded podcasts. In great anticipation, I select podcasts via iDrive and select one of my favorites, select an episode and off we go... for 4 seconds... Then it skips to the next episode. Again for 4 seconds. I'll leave this folder, go back to another folder and select a new podcast. Same thing, but about 6 seconds each time with this other one. Try a third. Same. I unplug the USB cable and play the podcast through the phone to see if it's the phone. No. It's all ok. Restart phone. Same problem. Go to the music. Plays perfectly well. Try the entire sequence again via Bluetooth. Same problem. If I manually advance the podcast past the first few minutes (using the phone), playback plays fine. It's like there's a preview setting enabled, but I can't find anything like that on the phone or in the car. Has anyone seen this and fixed it? Appreciate the help. Thanks.
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| 25111986 (72hp) | Picked up my June 13th 520d m-sport F11 prof nav this week, replacing the February 2011 520d SE f11 which I enjoyed for three years. Impressed with the improved ride. I like the animated menu features etc. Well, music isn't my thing. 99% of the time I'm alone in the car I'm listening to podcasts. In the old car I had difficulty recognizing podcasts on my iPhone 5, so I used a third party app and although I couldn't control it from the Prof Media system, playback ran fine when controlled from the car ( of course at a standstill). The new car didn't like that. Played for 2 seconds and then returned to the music on the phone. No problem I guess, I see that Prof Media's interface has been updated and podcasts (and audiobooks) are now a selectable menu item. I'm going to download the Apple Podcast app and here we go. Back in the car I now have the official app and a bunch of downloaded podcasts. In great anticipation, I select podcasts via iDrive and select one of my favorites, select an episode and off we go... for 4 seconds... Then it skips to the next episode. Again for 4 seconds. I'll leave this folder, go back to another folder and select a new podcast. Same thing, but about 6 seconds each time with this other one. Try a third. Same. I unplug the USB cable and play the podcast through the phone to see if it's the phone. No. It's all ok. Restart phone. Same problem. Go to the music. Plays perfectly well. Try the entire sequence again via Bluetooth. Same problem. If I manually advance the podcast past the first few minutes (using the phone), playback plays fine. It's like there's a preview setting enabled, but I can't find anything like that on the phone or in the car. Has anyone seen this and fixed it? Appreciate the help. Thanks.
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