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pumpkin5 (143hp) Quote: Originally written by twelve535i Thanks for the link! I will definitely keep these tips in mind for my future setup. Does anyone else know where I can find more tips like this? (One tip branches to the side) Preferably 3.5 double courses. Correct me if I'm wrong, but if you have a stock muffler, do you need this type for an M5 diffuser? That's right. There is someone here who sells stock 535 mufflers with this top configuration and is equipped with an M5 diffuser. The tips I posted the link to with the dual exhausts centered on the intake will work with diffusers made for a 550, stock or aftermarket version.

melody (929hp) Quote: Originally written by polyadam. Does anyone know if switching to quad tips would void the dealer's warranty? No, they don't. The tips do not alter the exhaust in any way. It's actually more of a cosmetic upgrade.

finalfanta (699hp) So today I get in my car and I get an error message saying “Passenger Restraints Malfunction” and that I should go to the nearest dealer. I did some searching and found that some 3 and 7 series owners had this problem a few years ago... Does anyone else have this problem on their F?10?

080686 (897hp) This happens to me every now and then when I have something in the passenger seat, such as a briefcase. I just remove whatever I have in the seat but it disappears. Something to do with the weight sensor. I never bothered to bring it.

czarina (258hp) I never have this problem. With or without a laptop pocket on the passenger seat. You should take it to the dealer and have it checked before anything happens.

blacklab (802hp) Car is at the dealer. You need to replace a seat sensor. No big deal, my warranty still runs for two years. I just hope it doesn't happen again and we end up chasing the problem.

pavlin (900hp) So today I get in my car and I get an error message saying “Passenger Restraints Malfunction” and that I should go to the nearest dealer. I did some searching and found that some 3 and 7 series owners had this problem a few years ago... Does anyone else have this problem on their F?10?

siemens123 (182hp) This happens to me every now and then when I have something in the passenger seat, such as a briefcase. I just remove whatever I have in the seat but it disappears. Something to do with the weight sensor. I never bothered to bring it.

raiders123 (868hp) I never have this problem. With or without a laptop pocket on the passenger seat. You should take it to the dealer and have it checked before anything happens.

champagne (792hp) Car is at the dealer. You need to replace a seat sensor. No big deal, my warranty still runs for two years. I just hope it doesn't happen again and we end up chasing down the problem.

wonda (470hp) What style of bike are these? I want to buy this 2014 535i xDrive M Sport but I'm not familiar with these wheels. The customer service representative said they came from an M6. These look like style 343M. Are they? They have 245/35/20 rubber at the front and 275/30/20 rubber at the rear. Staggered. Weird setup on a 4WD and I realize the 20 rubber is useless in the snow (I'm in NY/NJ/PA). To compensate, the dealer supplies type 328 18 wheels (standard non-line wheels) without rubber or TPMS. My plan is to give them blizzaks in the winter and save the 20s for the spring/summer/fall. Should I ask for a different style 18 wheeler? Not so crazy about style 328.

therion (532hp) These wheels are available in 6-series style 373

job123 (54hp) These wheels are optional on a 6 Series, not the M6. I hate thefts, salespeople and customer service representatives. They know nothing about the vehicles they sell and represent. Good luck with your purchase, it looks like a nice car.

salami1 (74hp) These wheels are the Style 373 for the 6 Series F12: http://www.bmwstylewheels.com/bmw/373. Fits the F10 but requires thick spacers to sit flush. For the AWD, the staggered setting of 245/35/20 275/30/20 is fine and works without any problems. This is typical for the most European four-wheel drive F10, but the best rear is 285/30/20 (just requires a little more money), which is the closest to rolling diameter. Finally, in cold areas it is common to set 20 for summer and 18 to 19 for winter. The winter tires can be traction tires for a soft winter or studded tires for ice and snow, also depending on the road traffic regulations: in some countries it is believed that studs destroy the road surface. As an example, I drive with Michelin PSS 245/35/20 and 285/30/20 in summer and with Nokian Hakkapeliitta 8 255/45/18 Square (OEM Style 350) in winter. Happy with that.

tosca (11hp) Quote: Originally posted by Valery.BMW These wheels are the Style 373 for the 6 Series F12: http://www.bmwstylewheels.com/bmw/373. Fits the F10 but requires thick spacers to sit flush. This particular model was a demonstration machine and has 5,000 miles on it. I wouldn't be surprised if they didn't add spacers and just put the wheels on. How do I know if these have spacers when I look at them??

cineya (364hp) Quote: Originally written by ferrarif1 These wheels are available for the 6 series in style 373. You are great, thank you

040284 (615hp) Quote: Originally posted by YuppieM3 This particular model was a demonstration for the owner and has 5,000 miles on the clock. I wouldn't be surprised if they didn't add spacers and just put the wheels on. How do I know if these have spacers when I look at them? If you can place a foot between the wheel sidewall and the fender, there is no spacer. If you look at these wheel specs they are F 8.5 x 20 ET33 and R 9.0 x 20 ET44. There are countless discussions here about flush fittings. The exact thickness of the spacer depends on various factors: width and shape of the wheel edge, tire width used (square or stretched), lowering of the vehicle, wheel camber and finally the space for the spacer must be measured. However, to sit flush with the fenders on square tire shoulders you may need 5mm spacers at the front and 15-18mm at the rear. http://www.bmpdesign.com/technical/w...el_spacers.php

jawa350 (552hp) Quote: Originally posted by YuppieM3 This particular model was a demonstration for the owner and has 5,000 miles on the clock. I wouldn't be surprised if they didn't add spacers and just put the wheels on. How do I know if these have spacers when I look at them? Because the wheel design is so open, you should be able to easily see spacers between the wheel and brake rotor, if there are any. Check out some of the spacers available so you know what you're looking for. Another option is to remove the wheels...

loulou123 (20hp) The 18mm Macht Schnell Competition Hubcentric spacer is added here: http://farm7.static.flickr.com/6127/...81a59756_b.jpg (Source http://f10.5post.com/forums/showpost.. .9&postcount=89)

091186 (168hp) M model rims have the M logo, this is one way to find out

carebear12 (470hp) Yes, these are the 373M 6-Series wheels, but they have the same width, tire size and offset as 20 OEM F10 wheels.

defcon (571hp) Quote: Originally posted by YuppieM3 This particular model was a demonstration for the owner and has 5,000 miles on the clock. I wouldn't be surprised if they didn't add spacers and just put the wheels on. How do I know if these have spacers when I look at them? The 373M is a very nice wheel on the F10, I would keep it. The width and offset correspond to those of the standard F10 M sports wheels (Style 351M). If you want a more flush mount, you can add 10mm spacers to the front and 15mm to the rear. This setup pushes the wheels closer to the fender lips, creating a more aggressive look without causing friction issues.

style (597hp) What style of bike are these? I want to buy this 2014 535i xDrive M Sport but I'm not familiar with these wheels. The customer service representative said they came from an M6. These look like style 343M. Are they? They have 245/35/20 rubber at the front and 275/30/20 rubber at the rear. Staggered. Weird setup on a 4WD and I realize the 20 rubber is useless in the snow (I'm in NY/NJ/PA). To compensate, the dealer supplies type 328 18 wheels (standard non-line wheels) without rubber or TPMS. My plan is to give them blizzaks in the winter and save the 20s for the spring/summer/fall. Should I ask for a different style 18 wheeler? Not so crazy about style 328.

140788 (546hp) These wheels are available in 6-series style 373

dana (804hp) These wheels are optional on a 6 Series, not the M6. I hate thefts, salespeople and customer service representatives. They know nothing about the vehicles they sell and represent. Good luck with your purchase, it looks like a nice car.

dpiuser (212hp) These wheels are the Style 373 for the 6 Series F12: http://www.bmwstylewheels.com/bmw/373. Fits the F10 but requires thick spacers to sit flush. For the AWD, the staggered setting of 245/35/20 275/30/20 is fine and works without any problems. This is typical for the most European four-wheel drive F10, but the best rear is 285/30/20 (just requires a little more money), which is the closest to rolling diameter. Finally, in cold areas it is common to set 20 for summer and 18 to 19 for winter. The winter tires can be traction tires for a soft winter or studded tires for ice and snow, also depending on the road traffic regulations: in some countries it is believed that studs destroy the road surface. As an example, I drive with Michelin PSS 245/35/20 and 285/30/20 in summer and with Nokian Hakkapeliitta 8 255/45/18 Square (OEM Style 350) in winter. Happy with that.

170385 (684hp) Quote: Originally posted by Valery.BMW These wheels are the Style 373 for the 6 Series F12: http://www.bmwstylewheels.com/bmw/373. Fits the F10 but requires thick spacers to sit flush. This particular model was a demonstration machine and has 5,000 miles on it. I wouldn't be surprised if they didn't add spacers and just put the wheels on. How do I know if these have spacers when I look at them??

casado (981hp) Quote: Originally written by ferrarif1 These wheels are available for the 6 series in style 373. You are great, thank you

porche (203hp) Quote: Originally posted by YuppieM3 This particular model was a demonstration for the owner and has 5,000 miles on the clock. I wouldn't be surprised if they didn't add spacers and just put the wheels on. How do I know if these have spacers when I look at them? If you can place a foot between the wheel sidewall and the fender, there is no spacer. If you look at these wheel specs they are F 8.5 x 20 ET33 and R 9.0 x 20 ET44. There are countless discussions here about flush fittings. The exact thickness of the spacer depends on various factors: width and shape of the wheel edge, tire width used (square or stretched), lowering of the vehicle, wheel camber and finally the space for the spacer must be measured. However, to sit flush with the fenders on square tire shoulders you may need 5mm spacers at the front and 15-18mm at the rear. http://www.bmpdesign.com/technical/w...el_spacers.php

harley00 (277hp) Quote: Originally posted by YuppieM3 This particular model was a demonstration for the owner and has 5,000 miles on the clock. I wouldn't be surprised if they didn't add spacers and just put the wheels on. How do I know if these have spacers when I look at them? Because the wheel design is so open, you should be able to easily see spacers between the wheel and brake rotor, if there are any. Check out some of the spacers available so you know what you're looking for. Another option is to remove the wheels...

Rush2112 (585hp) The 18mm Macht Schnell Competition Hubcentric spacer is added here: http://farm7.static.flickr.com/6127/...81a59756_b.jpg (Source http://f10.5post.com/forums/showpost.. .9&postcount=89)

mymail (727hp) M model rims have the M logo, this is one way to find out

celtics5 (186hp) Yes, these are the 373M 6-Series wheels, but they have the same width, tire size and offset as 20 OEM F10 wheels.

purnima (656hp) Quote: Originally posted by YuppieM3 This particular model was a demonstration for the owner and has 5,000 miles on the clock. I wouldn't be surprised if they didn't add spacers and just put the wheels on. How do I know if these have spacers when I look at them? The 373M is a very nice wheel on the F10, I would keep it. The width and offset correspond to those of the standard F10 M sports wheels (Style 351M). If you want a more flush mount, you can add 10mm spacers to the front and 15mm to the rear. This setup pushes the wheels closer to the fender lips, creating a more aggressive look without causing friction issues.

nicole34 (92hp) OP, you should contact BMWNA and let them address your issues. I contacted them directly when I received the drive failure notice and informed them that the warranty had expired and I was not happy with the situation. They advised me to take the problem to a BMW dealer to be diagnosed and they will work with me on a possible solution. My car died on the highway on Tuesday. The car was towed to the dealer who looked at the car and found that the screws holding the vanos in place were broken and that the vanos were broken. The master technician contacted BMWNA directly and they repaired my car at no cost to me. It sounds to me like BMW Nashville has the edge for you. I would contact BMWNA and ask them to pay the installments on your car even if it is in the shop.

01021991 (363hp) Quote: Originally written by geminiys. Reprogramming means flashing what is stored in Flash/ROM/RAM with new software. Not necessarily a new version of the software, but a new installation from scratch. Similar to reinstalling the Windows operating system on your computer or any other application that has stalled. Think about it. Today's cars are all computerized and over-computerized. Most auto mechanics are either a step or two behind what they service in their shops. Even certified, dealer-trained mechanics sometimes have no idea when they're dealing with electrical malfunctions or the computer says it doesn't like something. In such situations, they all rely solely on the OBDII diagnostic tool to point out a problem area. However, many things can go wrong when a powertrain malfunctions. Undoubtedly, it is very easy to fix something that is broken and very, very difficult to diagnose something that only occurs intermittently. I'm not trying to defend mechanics and BMW dealers. All I'm trying to say is that the mechanics are most likely frustrated too because they couldn't identify and fix your/our problems. To solve your problem in particular: If there are no mechanical problems, I would personally replace an electronic module (I'm not sure which one) that is responsible for controlling the powertrain block. Some small components such as capacitors may have manufacturing defects and sometimes leak. These problems are very difficult to identify unless you study them and test them in the field. Additionally, ICs can be imperfect in timing and miss the required signal under certain conditions, resulting in a false alarm. Do not think that this type of problem only occurs on BMW. Lexus, Acura, Audi, Merces, Infinity are all in the same boat. Good luck solving your problem. I completely understand your point and think it's valid in certain circumstances, except this isn't the first time the dealer has reprogrammed my car... That's why I feel like this is just an attempt.....

irock11 (724hp) What a great post, I wish you the best of luck, but this story is scaring the crap out of me in my decision to buy a used 2011 F10...ughhhh When I buy certified pre-owned, these problems have already occurred and been fixed?

kolade (803hp) Quote: Originally written by MotormanDan. What a great post, I wish you the best of luck, but this story is scaring the crap out of me in my decision to buy a used 2011 F10...ughhhh If I buy certified pre-owned, do these problems already happen and be fixed? That's the problem when the dealer just keeps denying there are problems and won't help you. It doesn't matter if the car is certified and under warranty... My car is under warranty and so far they are too busy denying things Instead of helping their customers, I would say buyers should beware.....

momentum (100hp) I had the same problem on my 2011 535. They replaced the injectors (under warranty) and the problem went away. Then it showed up again last week after I left my car idling for a little longer than it should have. After turning it off for a while the problem disappeared. I guess I'll just keep driving around and keep my fingers crossed it doesn't pop up again.

tigger87 (22hp) I spoke with BMW North America and the BMW dealer. They are willing to give me 36,500 for my car and 7,500 BMW in cash. I could charge this to any BMW. The problem is getting a comparable BMW 535i (not the 550i like the one I have). For this I would have to spend 18500 without taxes. I'm just in a conflict. I'm stuck with a car that I spent $80,000 on and want to get out of because these problems with this car never go away... but I don't want to sink another $18,500 into another car. ..I just lost faith...I would be grateful for any comments or advice???

brandon15 (847hp) What year is your current 550? The question really is whether the out-of-pocket money is reasonable considering how long you've had the car and, to a lesser extent, how many miles you've driven. One way to assess this is to think of it as a lease and figure out how much you would have paid for it. Agree that this is painful, but chances are you'll get a new car with hopefully fewer or no problems and a new warranty.

16021994 (344hp) Quote: Originally posted by WCH. What year is your current 550? The question really is whether the out-of-pocket money is reasonable considering how long you've had the car and, to a lesser extent, how many miles you've driven. One way to assess this is to think of it as a lease and figure out how much you would have paid for it. Agree that this is painful, but chances are you'll get a new car with hopefully fewer or no problems and a new warranty. It's a loaded 2011 550i, I paid 80k in taxes and it's paid for in full.

xtreme1 (772hp) How many miles? You should expect that you will be financially responsible for use, wear and tear and loss of value – right? In my opinion, nothing should really be free...

cyclones (842hp) Quote: Originally posted by engineer How many miles? You should expect that you will be financially responsible for use, wear and tear and loss of value – right? In my opinion nothing should really be free... I agree... it has 31,000 miles... But if BMW can't make a car that doesn't have major problems at 31,000 miles then it really is NOT the ultimate driving machine .....To me it looks like BMW has major problems with their vehicles and they are too busy denying these problems than making their customers who can afford their cars happy... well, if that's the case... People like me who can pay for cars in cash just go to other brands like Porsche, Audi and Mercedes-Benz.....

grandpa (318hp) $18000 Buying a new car out of pocket after three years of ownership and 31,000 miles doesn't seem crazy. Even if you make it a new 550 with a higher cost price, the numbers seem reasonable. You couldn't sell the car (if it worked) and make that much money. At the same time, this is a terrible situation and should not be happening. It is justified to be disillusioned and suspicious. All manufacturers make lemons. You can find people with problems like this in all forums. That certainly doesn't make it right, but I don't think BMW is better or worse. I hope you get a solution. Sounds like the best financing is through BMW - hopefully your next car - whatever it is - is worry-free.

elektro73 (275hp) Now the car is being serviced from 01/2000??? Great, add this to the list of problems

080785 (922hp) Again the drivetrain malfunctioned, but this time the car started shaking and hesitating and I had to call BMW assistant and be towed to the dealer... So the car is now at the dealer. The service manager got me a rental car, at least for the time being, which I really appreciated....

jason01 (550hp) Damn man, yeah, that's the injector bullshit. Mine was repaired and after 1,000 miles of driving it came back, I later found this on YouTube. It could be that the technicians are not doing their job properly. Mine has already been used twice in the two months I've owned it !

x5love (129hp) Today they called me and told me that they replaced all the injectors in the car and that my car is ready. Can anyone tell me how successful they were after replacing the injectors?????

anita2 (863hp) Quote: Originally posted by utlax20 3. There is still a noise in the interior of the car that they can't figure out I have recordings of on my iPhone. Joe F. I've had strange noises in the cabin for ages. I couldn't figure out what it was until one day I realized it was the seatbelt click/buckle thing that rubs against the leather seat when I'm buckled up. By the way, some 2011 models have better reliability. I've noticed that anything made after March 2011 seems to have fewer problems.

12111992 (847hp) Quote: Originally posted by 493263 I've had strange noises in the cabin for ages. I couldn't figure out what it was until one day I realized it was the seatbelt click/buckle thing that rubs against the leather seat when I'm buckled up. By the way, some 2011 models have better reliability. I've noticed that anything made after March 2011 seems to have fewer problems. I have the comfort seats or multi-contour seats as I guess you call them. I noticed that the side bolster of the passenger seat was rubbing against the center console. I simply pumped up the side bolsters a little and that gave me enough leeway for the noise to go away. As for the drivetrain problem. I'm picking up my car on Friday after the X-Drive junction box and diesel injectors were replaced after experiencing vibrations during low RPM speed adjustments. My thread is here. http://f10.5post.com/forums/showthread.php?t=1018745

18101989 (512hp) Had the same problem, replaced all 8 injectors from index 8 to index 11. The injectors could not be fixed, both high pressure fuel pumps had to be replaced

100477 (974hp) The drive problem is back...I'll bring it back on Monday....

gemini18 (636hp) New member here! I don't want to give up, but I bought a 2011 550i CPO in July 2014 with 32.1k miles. Great car when it works. The car currently has 36,200,000 miles. I had three drivetrain failures within 4,000 miles! Once all 8 injectors were replaced, 4 were broken but all were replaced as a courtesy. TWICE!!!! You have replaced the Aux Turbo water pump and associated sensors! Now I get thick white smoke blowing out of my exhaust whenever I climb an incline at over 2000 RPM when I was driving to Las Vegas and back (it was over 85 degrees and 270 miles each way, so condensation wasn't an option ) and now I too I burn 2 quarts of oil in less than 1,000 miles and have black, grainy soot on the rear of the vehicle. I'm told the 720 miles per qt consumption is what BMW considers normal for the 550i, but 2qts per 900 miles? The dealer is currently under investigation for excessive oil burning and white smoke! Ultimately I want to keep the vehicle, but it becomes frustrating because I don't know what to do if problems continue to occur? I have not contacted BMWna or lawyers, but I have read many good results from BMW buybacks! I believe California is the only state where CPO vehicles can be subject to the lemon law!

leon13 (377hp) My drivetrain malfunction warning light also came on while driving to work. When I restarted the car after work it was gone. However, the next day I took the car to the dealer. I have a Remus quad axle rear exhaust. Because they found the exhaust flap on the stock muffler was missing and a vacuum hose was loose, they refused to perform further diagnostics until the stock exhaust was installed. They even refused to plug the vacuum hose. They said the warning light could come from the exhaust flap and vacuum hose. I took my car back to the shop who installed the Remus exhaust and had the hose plugged. What nonsense from the dealer. I have had the Remus exhaust for over 1 1/2 years and no problem. So far the warning light hasn't come on for me, but if it does, here's some advice on what to do???

boldonadmin (584hp) They contacted me today and informed me that the drivetrain malfunction was due to a defective Vanos solenoid valve. I have no idea what that even is? They took care of it and we'll see what happens next time.....

patty12 (992hp) OP, you should contact BMWNA and let them address your issues. I contacted them directly when I received the drive failure notice and informed them that the warranty had expired and I was not happy with the situation. They advised me to take the problem to a BMW dealer to be diagnosed and they will work with me on a possible solution. My car died on the highway on Tuesday. The car was towed to the dealer who looked at the car and found that the screws holding the vanos in place were broken and that the vanos were broken. The master technician contacted BMWNA directly and they repaired my car at no cost to me. It sounds to me like BMW Nashville has the edge for you. I would contact BMWNA and ask them to pay the installments on your car even if it is in the shop.

kaname (504hp) Quote: Originally written by geminiys. Reprogramming means flashing what is stored in Flash/ROM/RAM with new software. Not necessarily a new version of the software, but a new installation from scratch. Similar to reinstalling the Windows operating system on your computer or any other application that has stalled. Think about it. Today's cars are all computerized and over-computerized. Most auto mechanics are either a step or two behind what they service in their shops. Even certified, dealer-trained mechanics sometimes have no idea when they're dealing with electrical malfunctions or the computer says it doesn't like something. In such situations, they all rely solely on the OBDII diagnostic tool to point out a problem area. However, many things can go wrong when a powertrain malfunctions. Undoubtedly, it is very easy to fix something that is broken and very, very difficult to diagnose something that only occurs intermittently. I'm not trying to defend mechanics and BMW dealers. All I'm trying to say is that the mechanics are most likely frustrated too because they couldn't identify and fix your/our problems. To solve your problem in particular: If there are no mechanical problems, I would personally replace an electronic module (I'm not sure which one) that is responsible for controlling the powertrain block. Some small components such as capacitors may have manufacturing defects and sometimes leak. These problems are very difficult to identify unless you study them and test them in the field. Additionally, ICs can be imperfect in timing and miss the required signal under certain conditions, resulting in a false alarm. Do not think that this type of problem only occurs on BMW. Lexus, Acura, Audi, Merces, Infinity are all in the same boat. Good luck solving your problem. I completely understand your point and think it's valid in certain circumstances, except this isn't the first time the dealer has reprogrammed my car... That's why I feel like this is just an attempt.....

vvcobravv (419hp) What a great post, I wish you the best of luck, but this story is scaring the crap out of me in my decision to buy a used 2011 F10...ughhhh When I buy certified pre-owned, these problems have already occurred and been fixed?

scoot1 (569hp) Quote: Originally written by MotormanDan. What a great post, I wish you the best of luck, but this story is scaring the crap out of me in my decision to buy a used 2011 F10...ughhhh If I buy certified pre-owned, do these problems already happen and be fixed? That's the problem when the dealer just keeps denying there are problems and won't help you. It doesn't matter if the car is certified and under warranty... My car is under warranty and so far they are too busy denying things Instead of helping their customers, I would say buyers should beware.....

agamemnon (110hp) I had the same problem on my 2011 535. They replaced the injectors (under warranty) and the problem went away. Then it showed up again last week after I left my car idling for a little longer than it should have. After turning it off for a while the problem disappeared. I guess I'll just keep driving around and keep my fingers crossed it doesn't pop up again.

Holmax (108hp) I spoke with BMW North America and the BMW dealer. They are willing to give me 36,500 for my car and 7,500 BMW in cash. I could charge this to any BMW. The problem is getting a comparable BMW 535i (not the 550i like the one I have). For this I would have to spend 18500 without taxes. I'm just in a conflict. I'm stuck with a car that I spent $80,000 on and want to get out of because these problems with this car never go away... but I don't want to sink another $18,500 into another car. ..I just lost faith...I would be grateful for any comments or advice???

orlando11 (508hp) What year is your current 550? The question really is whether the out-of-pocket money is reasonable considering how long you've had the car and, to a lesser extent, how many miles you've driven. One way to assess this is to think of it as a lease and figure out how much you would have paid for it. Agree that this is painful, but chances are you'll get a new car with hopefully fewer or no problems and a new warranty.

june03 (862hp) Quote: Originally posted by WCH. What year is your current 550? The question really is whether the out-of-pocket money is reasonable considering how long you've had the car and, to a lesser extent, how many miles you've driven. One way to assess this is to think of it as a lease and figure out how much you would have paid for it. Agree that this is painful, but chances are you'll get a new car with hopefully fewer or no problems and a new warranty. It's a loaded 2011 550i, I paid 80k in taxes and it's paid for in full.

carlos25 (897hp) How many miles? You should expect that you will be financially responsible for use, wear and tear and loss of value – right? In my opinion, nothing should really be free...

240000 (304hp) Quote: Originally posted by engineer How many miles? You should expect that you will be financially responsible for use, wear and tear and loss of value – right? In my opinion nothing should really be free... I agree... it has 31,000 miles... But if BMW can't make a car that doesn't have major problems at 31,000 miles then it really is NOT the ultimate driving machine .....To me it looks like BMW has major problems with their vehicles and they are too busy denying these problems than making their customers who can afford their cars happy... well if that's the case... people like me who Paying for cars in cash simply goes to other brands like Porsche, Audi and Mercedes-Benz.....

bear69 (125hp) $18000 Buying a new car out of pocket after three years of ownership and 31,000 miles doesn't seem crazy. Even if you make it a new 550 with a higher cost price, the numbers seem reasonable. You couldn't sell the car (if it worked) and make that much money. At the same time, this is a terrible situation and should not be happening. It is justified to be disillusioned and suspicious. All manufacturers make lemons. You can find people with problems like this in all forums. That certainly doesn't make it right, but I don't think BMW is better or worse. I hope you get a solution. Sounds like the best financing is through BMW - hopefully your next car - whatever it is - is worry-free.

kashyap (490hp) Now the car is being serviced from 01/2000??? Great, add this to the list of problems

myspace81 (207hp) Again the drivetrain malfunctioned, but this time the car started shaking and hesitating and I had to call BMW assistant and be towed to the dealer... So the car is now at the dealer. The service manager got me a rental car, at least for the time being, which I really appreciated....

macintosh1 (408hp) Damn man, yeah, that's the injector bullshit. Mine was repaired and after 1,000 miles of driving it came back, I later found this on YouTube. It could be that the technicians are not doing their job properly. Mine has already been used twice in the two months I've owned it !

654312 (479hp) Today they called me and told me that they replaced all the injectors in the car and that my car is ready. Can anyone tell me how successful they were after replacing the injectors?????

11041990 (291hp) Quote: Originally posted by utlax20 3. There is still a noise in the interior of the car that they can't figure out I have recordings of on my iPhone. Joe F. I've had strange noises in the cabin for ages. I couldn't figure out what it was until one day I realized it was the seatbelt click/buckle thing that rubs against the leather seat when I'm buckled up. By the way, some 2011 models have better reliability. I've noticed that anything made after March 2011 seems to have fewer problems.

Shrimpy (805hp) Quote: Originally posted by 493263 I've had strange noises in the cabin for ages. I couldn't figure out what it was until one day I realized it was the seatbelt click/buckle thing that rubs against the leather seat when I'm buckled up. By the way, some 2011 models have better reliability. I've noticed that anything made after March 2011 seems to have fewer problems. I have the comfort seats or multi-contour seats as I guess you call them. I noticed that the side bolster of the passenger seat was rubbing against the center console. I simply pumped up the side bolsters a little and that gave me enough leeway for the noise to go away. As for the drivetrain problem. I'm picking up my car on Friday after the X-Drive junction box and diesel injectors were replaced after experiencing vibrations during low RPM speed adjustments. My thread is here. http://f10.5post.com/forums/showthread.php?t=1018745

iluvme123 (587hp) Had the same problem, replaced all 8 injectors from index 8 to index 11. The injectors could not be fixed, both high pressure fuel pumps had to be replaced

19061983 (882hp) The drive problem is back...I'll bring it back on Monday....

floyd123 (632hp) New member here! I don't want to give up, but I bought a 2011 550i CPO in July 2014 with 32.1k miles. Great car when it works. The car currently has 36,200,000 miles. I had three drivetrain failures within 4,000 miles! Once all 8 injectors were replaced, 4 were broken but all were replaced as a courtesy. TWICE!!!! You have replaced the Aux Turbo water pump and associated sensors! Now I get thick white smoke blowing out of my exhaust whenever I climb an incline at over 2000 RPM when I was driving to Las Vegas and back (it was over 85 degrees and 270 miles each way, so condensation wasn't an option ) and now I too I burn 2 quarts of oil in less than 1,000 miles and have black, grainy soot on the rear of the vehicle. I'm told the 720 miles per qt consumption is what BMW considers normal for the 550i, but 2qts per 900 miles? The dealer is currently under investigation for excessive oil burning and white smoke! Ultimately I want to keep the vehicle, but it becomes frustrating because I don't know what to do if problems continue to occur? I have not contacted BMWna or lawyers, but I have read many good results from BMW buybacks! I believe California is the only state where CPO vehicles can be subject to the lemon law!

espinoza1 (928hp) My drivetrain malfunction warning light also came on while driving to work. When I restarted the car after work it was gone. However, the next day I took the car to the dealer. I have a Remus quad axle rear exhaust. Because they found the exhaust flap on the stock muffler was missing and a vacuum hose was loose, they refused to perform further diagnostics until the stock exhaust was installed. They even refused to plug the vacuum hose. They said the warning light could come from the exhaust flap and vacuum hose. I took my car back to the shop who installed the Remus exhaust and had the hose plugged. What nonsense from the dealer. I have had the Remus exhaust for over 1 1/2 years and no problem. So far the warning light hasn't come on for me, but if it does, here's some advice on what to do???

trabzonspor (670hp) They contacted me today and informed me that the drivetrain malfunction was due to a defective Vanos solenoid valve. I have no idea what that even is? They took care of it and we'll see what happens next time.....

170488 (129hp) Last month my lease on the 2012 Mercedes-Benz E350 4Matic expired and I was looking for my new vehicle. It's been a long story but I'm done with Mercedes so I want to try BMW. I test drove both the 535i Xdrive and the 528i Xdrive. The dealer has both cars listed at almost the same price, with the 528i offering more options than the base 535i. I know the 535i has a more powerful engine, but for my driving style the smaller engine with more options is perfect for me. In the end I chose the 528i Xdrive with luxury features and some great options over the base model 535i and I'm happy with my decision. This is my first BMW after 9 years with 3 Mercedes Benz. BMW is simply a great car. I love it!

muffy (883hp) Pretty!

101006 (616hp) Congratulations on your new vehicle and welcome aboard.

400102 (145hp) Thanks.

pookey (765hp) Great choice.

12011201 (733hp) Congratulations! Enjoy it – and welcome to the better German brand!

britney2 (428hp) Enjoy. You will like the Bimmer.

cunt12 (576hp) Congratulations on your new ride. Great choice. But I would also have suggested the adaptive LEDs, otherwise great great choice

Fahadm (358hp) Quote: Originally written by NewM3driver Have fun. You will like the Bimmer. That's right! After driving just one Bimmer, you must own one!!

alvinlim (845hp) Welcome to the dark side !

`12345 (891hp) Yes indeed! Adaptive LED would be nice, but the transition from 9 years of standard yellow halogen headlights from Mercedes Benz to adaptive bi-xenon from BMW already makes me happy. It's already a big step.

#1princess (704hp) After driving the BMW for three years, you will never go back to Merc.

jamesbrown (438hp) Son, you made the right choice.

buthead (561hp) looks great. In the last picture I see the front of a Merc... what's wrong with that? lol Once you get used to the Bimmer you'll never be able to drive a Mercedes again. I wish you had chosen the straight 6. That's what BMW is all about. Don't worry, in three years you'll have something to trade with. Congratulations and have fun with the new ride!

hannah17 (809hp) I took the photo the same day I delivered the brand new BMW and the Merc was ready to go back to the dealer after a two year lease. So far I'm happy with my 528ix engine. It's good and fast enough for my everyday driving with good MPG. I've spent the engine differences on several options that make my daily rides more enjoyable. And yes! I don't think I would ever go back to the Merc again.

6Exe3Za97v (828hp) Quote: Originally posted by Bobbypitaya ...And yes! I don't think I would ever go back to the Merc again. Never say never, right? I tried much harder than one should when buying a car to like the E350 during my test drive. (Unfortunately) it was a pretty disappointing experience for me in terms of handling and overall feel on the road, it really wasn't what I liked. The look, fit and finish are great, but too flowy for my taste. I'm not saying it's a bad car, I understand why people like it, there's a lot to like, but the 5 Series just drives a lot better (and looks better too in my opinion), I'm sure that you won't regret it in the long run.

muffin11 (544hp) Quote: Originally posted by Bbb34 Never say never, right? I tried much harder than one should when buying a car to like the E350 during my test drive. (Unfortunately) it was a pretty disappointing experience for me in terms of handling and overall feel on the road, it really wasn't what I liked. The look, fit and finish are great, but too flowy for my taste. I'm not saying it's a bad car, I understand why people like it, there's a lot to like, but the 5 Series just drives a lot better (and looks better too in my opinion), I'm sure that you won't regret it in the long run. Yes! The E350 isn't a bad car at all as I had it for two years. Personally, as an interior designer myself, design, looks and sensibility come before performance and handling and this F10 won me over the W212. I think the BMW designer did a good job. They really pay attention to every little detail. I smiled when I noticed the same crease running from the center of the hood across the dashboard into the interior and continuing around the back of the cabin. These little details convinced me and show how well the exterior and interior designer work together. I didn't find this on the W212, it seems to me that it was designed by several designers who don't communicate well with each other. All the creases and lines on the F10 exterior run from front to side and end beautifully in the rear taillights. It makes more sense than the W212, where some lines and creases were left out somewhere for no reason, while the designer tries to correct them in the facelift version. With F10. I just love design and that is my passion. I won't go into the performance and handling as it's not my area of ​​expertise, as you can see I chose the 528ix. The exterior and interior design of the F10 convinced me of W212.

!@#$%^&*() (927hp) Last month my lease on the 2012 Mercedes-Benz E350 4Matic expired and I was looking for my new vehicle. It's been a long story but I'm done with Mercedes so I want to try BMW. I test drove both the 535i Xdrive and the 528i Xdrive. The dealer has both cars listed at almost the same price, with the 528i offering more options than the base 535i. I know the 535i has a more powerful engine, but for my driving style the smaller engine with more options is perfect for me. In the end I chose the 528i Xdrive with luxury features and some great options over the base model 535i and I'm happy with my decision. This is my first BMW after 9 years with 3 Mercedes Benz. BMW is simply a great car. I love it!

oviedo (316hp) Pretty!

mistigri (555hp) Can someone in Dallas with jb4 help me install? I looked at the DIY instructions, which didn't really help. Send me a PM or text me 469-404-7490

30101987 (427hp) Congratulations on your new vehicle and welcome aboard.

creo (818hp) Quote: Originally posted by Bespoke 2014 Can anyone with jb4 in Dallas help me install? I looked at the DIY instructions, which didn't really help. PM or text me at 469-404-7490. Did anyone help you? If no one has helped yet, PM me and I'll call you tomorrow.

cassidy2 (227hp) Thanks.

playa12 (216hp) Can someone in Dallas with jb4 help me install? I looked at the DIY instructions, which didn't really help. Send me a PM or text me 469-404-7490

brahma (688hp) Great choice.

06101985 (626hp) Quote: Originally posted by Bespoke 2014 Can anyone with jb4 in Dallas help me install? I looked at the DIY instructions, which didn't really help. PM or text me at 469-404-7490. Did anyone help you? If no one has helped yet, PM me and I'll call you tomorrow.

barnes1 (457hp) Congratulations! Enjoy it – and welcome to the better German brand!

hawks (379hp) Enjoy. You will like the Bimmer.

billing.tgz (90hp) Congratulations on your new ride. Great choice. But I would also have suggested the adaptive LEDs, otherwise great great choice

010908 (789hp) Quote: Originally written by NewM3driver Have fun. You will like the Bimmer. That's right! After driving just one Bimmer, you must own one!!

math (330hp) Welcome to the dark side !

alcool (205hp) Yes indeed! Adaptive LED would be nice, but the transition from 9 years of standard yellow halogen headlights from Mercedes Benz to adaptive bi-xenon from BMW already makes me happy. It's already a big step.

131091 (670hp) After driving the BMW for three years, you will never go back to Merc.

sangita (523hp) Son, you made the right choice.

991PCAR (964hp) looks great. In the last picture I see the front of a Merc... what's wrong with that? lol Once you get used to the Bimmer you'll never be able to drive a Mercedes again. I wish you had chosen the straight 6. That's what BMW is all about. Don't worry, in three years you'll have something to trade with. Congratulations and have fun with the new ride!

basic (261hp) I took the photo the same day I delivered the brand new BMW and the Merc was ready to go back to the dealer after a two year lease. So far I'm happy with my 528ix engine. It's good and fast enough for my everyday driving with good MPG. I've spent the engine differences on several options that make my daily rides more enjoyable. And yes! I don't think I would ever go back to the Merc again.

miumiu (568hp) Quote: Originally posted by Bobbypitaya ...And yes! I don't think I would ever go back to the Merc again. Never say never, right? I tried much harder than one should when buying a car to like the E350 during my test drive. (Unfortunately) it was a pretty disappointing experience for me in terms of handling and overall feel on the road, it really wasn't what I liked. The look, fit and finish are great, but too flowy for my taste. I'm not saying it's a bad car, I understand why people like it, there's a lot to like, but the 5 Series just drives a lot better (and looks better too in my opinion), I'm sure that you won't regret it in the long run.

iloveyou15 (921hp) Quote: Originally posted by Bbb34 Never say never, right? I tried much harder than one should when buying a car to like the E350 during my test drive. (Unfortunately) it was a pretty disappointing experience for me in terms of handling and overall feel on the road, it really wasn't what I liked. The look, fit and finish are great, but too flowy for my taste. I'm not saying it's a bad car, I understand why people like it, there's a lot to like, but the 5 Series just drives a lot better (and looks better too in my opinion), I'm sure that you won't regret it in the long run. Yes! The E350 isn't a bad car at all as I had it for two years. Personally, as an interior designer myself, design, looks and sensibility come before performance and handling and this F10 won me over the W212. I think the BMW designer did a good job. They really pay attention to every little detail. I smiled when I noticed the same crease running from the center of the hood across the dashboard into the interior and continuing around the back of the cabin. These little details convinced me and show how well the exterior and interior designer work together. I didn't find this on the W212, it seems to me that it was designed by several designers who don't communicate well with each other. All the creases and lines on the F10 exterior run from front to side and end beautifully in the rear taillights. It makes more sense than the W212, where some lines and creases were left out somewhere for no reason, while the designer tries to correct them in the facelift version. With F10. I just love design and that is my passion. I won't go into the performance and handling as it's not my area of ​​expertise, as you can see I chose the 528ix. The exterior and interior design of the F10 convinced me of W212.

07061989 (286hp) Thanks for the answer Super6. I'm seriously considering this mod, a big improvement over the standard. I'm assuming the shop cut/modified the bumper to fit?

qwas1234 (562hp) Yes, look at the pictures at the bottom of the first page. This mod is purely cosmetic in nature, but makes the car look significantly more aggressive. (Keep in mind I don't have an M Sport rear bumper)

surfer69 (542hp) Quote: Originally written by twelve535i Thanks for the link! I will definitely keep these tips in mind for my future setup. Does anyone else know where I can find more tips like this? (One tip branches to the side) Preferably 3.5 double courses. Correct me if I'm wrong, but if you have a stock muffler, do you need this type for an M5 diffuser? So 535i M Sport, I don't plan on changing or deleting my muffler. Can I still use something like the one in the picture and if so, where can I find them? And does it only work with the M5 diffuser or even with this diffuser? http://www.ebay.com/itm/Unfinished-BM...p2054897.l4275

ballin07 (201hp) Guys: If you want to switch to quad tailpipes with the 550 diffuser, you will need Y-style tailpipes and not the twelve535i ones because the cutout on the 550 diffuser is right in the middle of the muffler exhaust port. The tips where the second branch branches off to the side are off center. My mistake. I see you're talking about the M5 diffuser, not the 550. Sorry.

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