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| goonies1 (883hp) | I've had my 535i for almost 2 years, which is the longest I've kept it in a vehicle. I turn around to look at her again after parking. This is the best vehicle I have owned so far. It looks great, awesome mpg (27 avg), fun to drive and roomy. I generally keep my cars for 6 months to 1 year. I have owned '07 EVO IX SE (unreliable and have to refuel every 100 yards), '08 350z (really loved it, but crashed it), '08 TL (hated it), '08 08 G35x (boring), '06 330i (first BMW and used car since college, BMW addict), '11 FX35 (unique exterior and awesome interior, but still boring), '11 535i (current) and '12 X35 SAV (current).
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| psuibmw (5hp) | I love mine so far. A totally different vehicle to my tuned 335i 6MT, but at my advanced age I was ready for a more relaxed drive. The 535i is exactly what you need in this regard. Granted, it doesn't handle as well or go as fast, but settling in at 75 mph on an open highway on a long drive is pure heaven..
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| solidworks (351hp) | It's a difficult decision. It's hard to figure out which side of the line to fall on, at least for me, between lively, nimble cruising and luxurious, luxurious cruising with a touch of sportiness. My 535i M-Sport is my 5th BMW. I was once a VW/Audi/Porsche guy. I had a 94 318i E36, a 2009 335i E90, a 2011 335 E92... I now have a 2009 328i E90 with the sport package and a 2012 F10 535i M Sport. Driving the 5er is very pleasant but not fiery. I just installed the JB4 Stage 2 and it now has a lot more raw power, but the car is still smooth and quiet without the harsh exhaust sound. It's also an xDrive, so the handling isn't like the E92 I just traded in. The electric steering is not that of the E9x. When I drive my 09 328i it gives me feedback and a feel that I like, but the 5er has a certain feel that I like. Yes, I miss the nimble and throwable 335 E92 (with JB stage 1), but I really enjoy the larger, more comfortable feel of the 5, with more than adequate performance. When I walk into the 3 after being in the 5, the overall feel is a few notches below the look, finish and quality of the 5. It's just not as refined. I know, it's always a tough call.
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| mjmjmj (142hp) | Everything except size...
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| damir (761hp) | Quote: Originally posted by VWtoBMW It's also xDrive, so the handling isn't like the E92 I just traded in. The electric steering is not that of the E9x. I think the 535xi still have hydraulic steering.
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| Kimberly (627hp) | Who do you like at the party? The girl who is the center of attention wears a provocative dress and hints to you that she would like to get to know you better OR the gorgeous beauty who sits quietly and looks elegant and sophisticated and has made no attempt to attract you. ? You can like one or the other, it all depends on who you are and what you want from your car. Personally, I believe that you should have at least two cars to satisfy all your needs: a sports car and a cruiser. If you only have to have one, then the 5 is, in my opinion, the best alternative. I love my 550i and my sports car, but they are so different that it would be impossible to find a car that could replace those two. However, in many people's minds this car exists and they buy an M3, 335is or other similar car to satisfy the need. To answer your question: 5 is not cold and sterile – it is warm and exciting. What do I like the most? This:
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| orphee (200hp) | Quote: Originally posted by 1HOT BMR Who do you like at the party? The girl who is the center of attention wears a provocative dress and hints to you that she would like to get to know you better OR the gorgeous beauty who sits quietly and looks elegant and sophisticated and has made no attempt to attract you. ? You can like one or the other, it all depends on who you are and what you want from your car. Personally, I believe that you should have at least two cars to satisfy all your needs: a sports car and a cruiser. If you only have to have one, then the 5 is, in my opinion, the best alternative. I love my 550i and my sports car, but they are so different that it would be impossible to find a car that could replace those two. However, in many people's minds this car exists and they buy an M3, 335is or other similar car to satisfy the need. To answer your question: 5 is not cold and sterile – it is warm and exciting. What do I like the most? This: yes, I would agree with you
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| xylotomy (867hp) | Quote: Originally posted by 1HOT BMR Who do you like at the party? The girl who is the center of attention wears a provocative dress and hints to you that she would like to get to know you better OR the gorgeous beauty who sits quietly and looks elegant and sophisticated and has made no attempt to attract you. ? Or some might like the girl who sits alone in the corner of the room, a bit plain, not flashy, but very reliable, who will never cheat on you and definitely the type you can bring back to the house to the parents. In this case, this person could instead buy a Lexus.
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| soccer28 (910hp) | Quote: Originally posted by The X Men Quote: Originally posted by 1HOT BMR Who do you like at the party? The girl who is the center of attention wears a provocative dress and hints to you that she would like to get to know you better OR the gorgeous beauty who sits quietly and looks elegant and sophisticated and has made no attempt to attract you. ? Or some might like the girl who sits alone in the corner of the room, a bit plain, not flashy, but very reliable, who will never cheat on you and definitely the type you can bring back to the house to the parents. In this case, this person might buy a Lexus instead. What a boring life!
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| wan0425 (287hp) | I love my 550. I've been driving it for about 6 months and I never get tired of it. I miss the handling of the M3, but I'm 6.5 and the size + luxury of the 5 Series fits me just fine. Lowering springs and an exhaust are a must if you want to make it sportier IMHO. I also think the 5 series looks great with the m-sport package. The F10 still looks like a car that's just been released.
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| 101078 (841hp) | It was the very impressive technology that led me to trade in my beautiful E92 330d MS for a new F10 535d MS in September 2010 and, although I was generally very happy with the car, it never felt quite as good. "special" than the 3 Series Coupe. Two months ago I bought an F12 640i SE and the feeling of owning a very special car returned. As with my E92, I find myself looking back to admire it after parking - something I rarely did with the 5'er. The F10 is undeniably a very good car, but for me it's a bit bland and boring - very efficient, but cold and emotionless..
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| getlow (140hp) | OK, I have to take you for a ride with me in my 550i. It's not boring if you drive it, and you'll be smoking a 335i. The 335i just seems too cheap...it's a $30,000-$40,000 car versus $74,000...The interior differences are very disparate and all the kids (Armenians, Persians, Mexicans and Wiggers) have a 3... Even I have a 3, but it's my car that I throw away or when I don't want to show someone. The new F30 3'er looks great on the outside though! I love it...
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| gangsters (691hp) | I've had 2 BMWs that I loved, '86 325es and a 2000 Z3, 3.0. I am now considering a new 535 or 550, but I fear it will be too cold, perhaps even sterile. As car enthusiasts, what do you like most about your 5? THANKS!
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| anca (282hp) | The F10 550i has been one of the best cars I've ever owned, and I've been through quite a bit.
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| 02081985 (180hp) | 1
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| 05051983 (520hp) | Fantasm's comment is quite a compliment to the F10 550i considering all the cars he's owned. This is my 5th 5 series and I am very happy with the comfort and luxury features of the car, not to mention the power, BUT I would be surprised if a Z4 or 3 series owner gets much used to the series 5. Not that the 5 is a cold, sterile car (it isn't if you order the right things), but I never considered my 5 to be very sporty or spirited. But I chose the 5 specifically to be a nice long-haul touring sedan with a little sport and (with the 550i) a lot of punch. You might be more impressed with a 335i (with M Sport package) or if you can wait a year or so, the M3. Compared to a 5 series, these cars are hot like a nightclub bar, whereas a 5 series is more like a 5 star hotel bar. It all depends on how you live and what you like.
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| woodlands (762hp) | I also have a Z3, which I love. IMO, you strap the Z3 on, become one, and you really have to drive it and control it. In my 550 it does what you think. It’s hard to answer the one thing I like, because I like everything. One thing that comes to mind is that when you think you're really going up a hill, you can push the pedal even harder – that makes me smile. If you have extra money, go with the 550 instead of the 535. Good luck and let us know what you decide..
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| puszek (734hp) | When my 'D' arrives it will be my 4th 5er and my 5th Beemer. As much as I loved my last Beemer (the x5), I will be very happy to be back in a 5 series, they are such great vehicles. Just the right size for 2 (or occasionally 4) to take long trips in gr8 comfort but with a ride that can adapt to your mood, from edgy to wallowing (if that's to your liking). a good city drive but an unparalleled long-haul car. I'm going to stop jerking off now and just say I like it. BTW, I'm a V8 guy (my last 3 Beemers have been the 4.4 V8), but I decided to try a diesel for economy reasons. Mind you, the 535d is only 0.5 seconds slower from 0 to 100 km/h than the 550 (which is the car my heart told me to buy), but significantly better in terms of economy than the 550 So I will report next year on the overall experience. I'd go for the 550 if I knew of you, diesels aren't available in North America yet (my goodness - when the 550d comes out here I'll be lining up to get it)!!!!!!!!!!).
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| lito_22 (527hp) | Quote: Originally posted by carmelbmw I am now considering a new 535 or 550 but I fear it will be too cold, perhaps even sterile. As car enthusiasts, what do you like most about your 5? THANKS! I'm in a 535i wagon and I love everything about it. Except it seems a bit big when parked in tight spots. I just had an E91 330d wagon for six years so I got the feel and drive of the 3 series. Previous car was an E39 540i wagon, it's good to be home....The series 5 is not everyone's opinion on a sporty BMW ride. I love the blend of luxury, refinement and driver involvement, all in a road car package built on BMW's core values. I started with a BMW E12 528...the F11 535i is the best BMW I've ever had, I didn't think anything would top the E39. HighlandPete
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| BimmerBeso (111hp) | Quote: Originally posted by carmelbmw I've had 2 BMWs that I loved, '86 325es and a 2000 Z3, 3.0. I am now considering a new 535 or 550, but I fear it will be too cold, perhaps even sterile. As car enthusiasts, what do you like most about your 5? THANKS! Looks like the 5 Series isn't your type of car. If you like cars like the 86 325es and a 2000 Z3, 3.0, then you might prefer the 1 Series or the M3. Unless your taste in cars has changed, you may want to stay away from the series 5..
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| Pruzina (832hp) | I love my 535 as a laid back cruiser, good to look at and for all the gadgets it has to offer. That said, though, it doesn't give me the same feeling as, say, an M3 after driving it every time. Some cars give you just the right feeling, a complete package that stimulates the driver in all aspects (power, feel, sound, etc...) and cars like the M3, the 1M or even my previous 335 Msport 6MT tuned like my F10 doesn't have it. It's a great machine for what it is, but if you're more of a spirited driver, it might not be the car for you. Again, I love my car but not in the same way I guess? Alan
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| Belgian (474hp) | My 535i is my first BMW, and actually my first sedan. I've always had Range Rovers and other large SUVs. I can honestly say that I LOVE my car. It's fast, luxurious and a lot of fun. It's obviously not a race car, but how many times a day do you actually use your vehicle for racing? With the cars you are comparing too, it will seem big and heavy, because it is. It all depends on what you're looking for in a car.
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| 17011994 (249hp) | I've had my 535i for almost 2 years, which is the longest I've kept it in a vehicle. I turn around to look at her again after parking. This is the best vehicle I have owned so far. It looks great, awesome mpg (27 avg), fun to drive and roomy. I generally keep my cars for 6 months to 1 year. I have owned '07 EVO IX SE (unreliable and have to refuel every 100 yards), '08 350z (really loved it, but crashed it), '08 TL (hated it), '08 08 G35x (boring), '06 330i (first BMW and used car since college, addicted to BMW), '11 FX35 (unique exterior and awesome interior, but still boring), '11 535i (current) and ' 12 X35 After-sales service (current).
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| bball09 (777hp) | I love mine so far. A totally different vehicle to my tuned 335i 6MT, but at my advanced age I was ready for a more relaxed drive. The 535i is exactly what you need in this regard. Granted, it doesn't handle as well or go as fast, but settling in at 75 mph on an open highway on a long drive is pure heaven..
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| silmaril (34hp) | It's a difficult decision. It's hard to figure out which side of the line to fall on, at least for me, between lively, nimble cruising and luxurious, luxurious cruising with a touch of sportiness. My 535i M-Sport is my 5th BMW. I was once a VW/Audi/Porsche guy. I had a 94 318i E36, a 2009 335i E90, a 2011 335 E92... I now have a 2009 328i E90 with the sport package and a 2012 F10 535i M Sport. Driving the 5er is very pleasant but not fiery. I just installed the JB4 Stage 2 and it now has a lot more raw power, but the car is still smooth and quiet without the harsh exhaust sound. It's also an xDrive, so the handling isn't like the E92 I just traded in. The electric steering is not that of the E9x. When I drive my 09 328i it gives me feedback and a feel that I like, but the 5er has a certain feel that I like. Yes, I miss the nimble and throwable 335 E92 (with JB stage 1), but I really enjoy the larger, more comfortable feel of the 5, with more than adequate performance. When I walk into the 3 after being in the 5, the overall feel is a few notches below the look, finish and quality of the 5. It's just not as refined. I know, it's always a tough call.
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| 26041991 (215hp) | Everything except size...
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| yuriko (698hp) | Quote: Originally posted by VWtoBMW It's also xDrive, so the handling isn't like the E92 I just traded in. The electric steering is not that of the E9x. I think the 535xi still have hydraulic steering.
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| 31051979 (185hp) | Who do you like at the party? The girl who is the center of attention wears a provocative dress and hints to you that she would like to get to know you better OR the gorgeous beauty who sits quietly and looks elegant and sophisticated and has made no attempt to attract you. ? You can like one or the other, it all depends on who you are and what you want from your car. Personally, I believe that you should have at least two cars to satisfy all your needs: a sports car and a cruiser. If you only have to have one, then the 5 is, in my opinion, the best alternative. I love my 550i and my sports car, but they are so different that it would be impossible to find a car that could replace those two. However, in many people's minds this car exists and they buy an M3, 335is or other similar car to satisfy the need. To answer your question: 5 is not cold and sterile – it is warm and exciting. What do I like the most? This:
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| tres (61hp) | Quote: Originally posted by 1HOT BMR Who do you like at the party? The girl who is the center of attention wears a provocative dress and hints to you that she would like to get to know you better OR the gorgeous beauty who sits quietly and looks elegant and sophisticated and has made no attempt to attract you. ? You can like one or the other, it all depends on who you are and what you want from your car. Personally, I believe that you should have at least two cars to satisfy all your needs: a sports car and a cruiser. If you only have to have one, then the 5 is, in my opinion, the best alternative. I love my 550i and my sports car, but they are so different that it would be impossible to find a car that could replace those two. However, in many people's minds this car exists and they buy an M3, 335is or other similar car to satisfy the need. To answer your question: 5 is not cold and sterile – it is warm and exciting. What do I like the most? This: yes, I would agree with you
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| SDRX (648hp) | Quote: Originally posted by 1HOT BMR Who do you like at the party? The girl who is the center of attention wears a provocative dress and hints to you that she would like to get to know you better OR the gorgeous beauty who sits quietly and looks elegant and sophisticated and has made no attempt to attract you. ? Or some might like the girl who sits alone in the corner of the room, a bit plain, not flashy, but very reliable, who will never cheat on you and definitely the type you can bring back to the house to the parents. In this case, this person could instead buy a Lexus.
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| lilman13 (740hp) | Quote: Originally posted by The X Men Quote: Originally posted by 1HOT BMR Who do you like at the party? The girl who is the center of attention wears a provocative dress and hints to you that she would like to get to know you better OR the gorgeous beauty who sits quietly and looks elegant and sophisticated and has made no attempt to attract you. ? Or some might like the girl who sits alone in the corner of the room, a bit plain, not flashy, but very reliable, who will never cheat on you and definitely the type you can bring back to the house to the parents. In this case, this person might buy a Lexus instead. What a boring life!
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| walt (401hp) | I love my 550. I've been driving it for about 6 months and I never get tired of it. I miss the handling of the M3, but I'm 6.5 and the size + luxury of the 5 Series fits me just fine. Lowering springs and an exhaust are a must if you want to make it sportier IMHO. I also think the 5 series looks great with the m-sport package. The F10 still looks like a car that's just been released.
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| evanover (421hp) | It was the very impressive technology that led me to trade in my beautiful E92 330d MS for a new F10 535d MS in September 2010 and, although I was generally very happy with the car, it never felt quite as good. "special" than the 3 Series Coupe. Two months ago I bought an F12 640i SE and the feeling of owning a very special car returned. As with my E92, I find myself looking back to admire it after parking - something I rarely did with the 5'er. The F10 is undeniably a very good car, but for me it's a bit bland and boring - very efficient, but cold and emotionless..
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| Spinny02 (706hp) | OK, I have to take you for a ride with me in my 550i. It's not boring if you drive it, and you'll be smoking a 335i. The 335i just seems too cheap...it's a $30,000-$40,000 car versus $74,000...The interior differences are very disparate and all the kids (Armenians, Persians, Mexicans and Wiggers) have a 3... Even I have a 3, but it's my car that I throw away or when I don't want to show someone. The new F30 3'er looks great on the outside though! I love it...
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| calvert (323hp) | Do you have any idea where I can get the ACS front spoiler (see link below) in the US and at what price? THANKS!! http://f10.5post.com/forums/showthread.php?t=494949
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| jessie4 (281hp) | CEC is the US importer and retails. The spoiler alone costs $655, not including the carbon fiber center section, carbon brake ducts and chrome grille. http://www.cecwheels.com/tuners-3/AcSchnitzer
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| nnnnnn1 (816hp) | Thanks, tp550i, does anyone have it? Any experience with this?
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| savannah11 (260hp) | does anyone know how much the ACS spring costs?
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| toni12 (138hp) | is there anything similar to these spoilers?
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| hotshit1 (306hp) | Do you have any idea where I can get the ACS front spoiler (see link below) in the US and at what price? THANKS!! http://f10.5post.com/forums/showthread.php?t=494949
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| mandarine (398hp) | CEC is the US importer and retails. The spoiler alone costs $655, not including the carbon fiber center section, carbon brake ducts and chrome grille. http://www.cecwheels.com/tuners-3/AcSchnitzer
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| 24031990 (685hp) | Thanks, tp550i, does anyone have it? Any experience with this?
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| 51525354 (371hp) | does anyone know how much the ACS spring costs?
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| Fartpimpson (855hp) | is there anything similar to these spoilers?
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| bratz2 (570hp) | The recently released M Performance Parts for 3 and 5 inches do not include a braking system for 5 inches. I wonder why...I'm trying to see if we can get the Brembo system for 535 as part of the M performance parts like those installed on the 3ers..
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| babygirl93 (643hp) | Quote: Originally posted by desertking The recently released M performance parts for 3 and 5ers do not include a braking system for 5ers. I wonder why...I'm trying to see if we can get the Brembo system for 535 as part of the M performance parts like those installed on the 3ers. yes, I also like the M performance brakes for 3ers old and new. I wish they had this for our cars. I what to buy too much cheaper than Brembo.
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| cectester (161hp) | I would also like to see this, as aftermarket Brembos do not have electronic braking on the rear system (I would not only consider a front upgrade).).
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| turnip1 (741hp) | The recently released M Performance Parts for 3 and 5 inches do not include a braking system for 5 inches. I wonder why...I'm trying to see if we can get the Brembo system for 535 as part of the M performance parts like those installed on the 3ers..
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| wakacje (47hp) | Quote: Originally posted by desertking The recently released M performance parts for 3 and 5ers do not include a braking system for 5ers. I wonder why...I'm trying to see if we can get the Brembo system for 535 as part of the M performance parts like those installed on the 3ers. yes, I also like the M performance brakes for 3ers old and new. I wish they had this for our cars. I what to buy too much cheaper than Brembo.
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| 10091009 (289hp) | I would also like to see this, as aftermarket Brembos do not have electronic braking on the rear system (I would not only consider a front upgrade).).
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| radman07 (104hp) | I've had my F11 since February and just realized that the rear vents only let out cool air. I guess it wasn't a factor during the summer so we didn't realize it, but now it's getting colder and colder. Is this intentional or a defect? For clarity I had the heater on at 20 degrees C and the front vents on medium warm air was coming out. The people in the back were complaining about the cold air. I turned the front fan selector to hot, it heated up but the rear didn't change. I turned the heat up to 28 degrees C just to test and the front heated up quickly, but the back kept blowing cool air. Could other owners please share their experiences before calling the dealership. Thank you so much
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| tatiana1 (731hp) | I don't want to sound obvious, but you switched the scroll wheel to the left of the central lock button to the red setting and turned off the snowflake correctly.?
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| 081081 (193hp) | Perfectly valid question. Yes on the steering wheel, no on the air conditioning. I never turn it off because I understand that it doesn't exclusively do cold, it manages overall temperature control, heat and humidity level to prevent fogging..
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| inside1 (285hp) | This roller next to the central lock may further affect the temperature coming out of the vents and rear, as I don't think you have four zone climate control, so try putting the rear roller on hot first . Although setting the temperature higher is helpful, setting the parchment hot or cold will have its effect. On the E60 this function is in the iDrive menu, I'm glad they put it back on the dashboard.
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| 30081984 (69hp) | [QUOTE=gatoman39,10853738]I don't want to sound obvious, but you switched the scroll wheel to the left of the central lock button to the red setting and turned off the snowflake, correct? In Auto mode, the snowflake has no effect. Regarding that scroll wheel, I've always wondered what it actually controls? I mean, you set a target temperature, you set the ventilation intensity and it's the air conditioner's job to reach and maintain the desired temperature, right? Does the wheel actually control the heat/cold level of the air ??
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| 01121995 (202hp) | Quote: Originally posted by Breach Regarding that scroll wheel - I've always wondered what it actually controls? I mean, you set a target temperature, you set the ventilation intensity and it's the air conditioner's job to reach and maintain the desired temperature, right? Does the wheel actually control the heat/cold level of the air? In essence, you are right. In my experience you should only cycle the dial in each season, let's say it's winter, you turn it to warm, summer to cold, spring and fall in the middle. This is what I do in my car.
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| thankful1 (311hp) | Quote: Originally posted by Breach... Regarding that scroll wheel - I've always wondered what it actually controls? I mean, you set a target temperature, you set the ventilation intensity and it's the air conditioner's job to reach and maintain the desired temperature, right? Does the wheel actually control the heat/cold level of the air? The scroll wheel controls the fan temperature at face level and I consider it an extremely useful feature. I have the main temperature set to 20, which keeps the overall comfort to my liking, but I often push the wheel up or down to change the temperature zone around my face and upper body. It reacts very quickly and it only takes a few movements to have a noticeable effect.
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| blue98 (601hp) | Quote: Originally posted by AC_S5 This scroll next to central locking may further affect the temperature coming out of the vents and rear, as I don't think you have four zone climate control, so try to First set the scroll back to hot. Although setting the temperature higher is helpful, setting the parchment hot or cold will have its effect. On the E60 this feature is in the iDrive menu, I'm glad they put it back on the dashboard. I don't have a quad zone, just dual zone. I experimented a bit more on the commute to work this morning and adjusting the scroll wheel on the front had a minor effect on the rear air vents. It didn't make the air hot, but it went from freezing to lukewarm. Something is seriously wrong there
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| ritika (997hp) | As for the purpose of the red/blue center scroll temperature control, it is as Jon D stated - for the purpose of adjusting the comfort level of your upper skin. In other words, the overall ambient temperature of the cabin zones is controlled by the temperature gauge of the corresponding zone (driver or passenger/rear with dual climate control and driver or front passenger or rear left passenger or rear right passenger with quadruple control) and the direct airflow temperature in the upper body is controlled by the scroll wheel located on the vent. For example, I generally keep my cabin temperature at 20 degrees Celsius and usually set the parchment to blue in summer and red in winter - however, especially in spring and fall, I adjust the parchment more often. This allows me to feel cooler or warmer depending on my attire while maintaining the ambient temperature of the cabin. Regarding the rear vents of a dual zone vehicle, I tested mine last night and noticed this: The air temperature expressed directly corresponded to the air conditioning set temperature on the front dashboard (j I put the command on all for this test). If I increased the temperature, the temperature and intensity of the air expressed through the rear vents increased. If I lowered the temperature, the air being expressed out the back corresponded lower. Note: 1) the car was already hot because I did the test when arriving at destination, 2) I believe, but I did not test, that if I had the control not set on everything, then the temperature of the air expressed in the rear would have matched the passenger A/C temperature setting - someone may want to test this, 3) the front center volute only affects the front center vents and does not has no effect on others (including including the rear). So ultimately, if there is only cold air coming out of the rear vents and the driver and passenger climate control settings are such that the heat should be felt, this indicates one of two things: either the vehicle is not warmed up enough to direct hot air to the rear vents, or - Houston, we have a problem because you should have hot air over there. I hope this rambling helps. Bill
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| kalimera (31hp) | Quote: Originally posted by Sharbotcom As for the purpose of the red/blue center scroll temperature control, it is as Jon D stated - for the purpose of adjusting your skin's comfort level superior. In other words, the overall ambient temperature of the cabin zones is controlled by the temperature gauge of the corresponding zone (driver or passenger/rear with dual climate control and driver or front passenger or rear left passenger or rear right passenger with quadruple control) and the direct airflow temperature in the upper body is controlled by the scroll wheel located on the vent. For example, I generally keep my cabin temperature at 20 degrees Celsius and usually set the parchment to blue in summer and red in winter - however, especially in spring and fall, I adjust the parchment more often. This allows me to feel cooler or warmer depending on my attire while maintaining the ambient temperature of the cabin... Pretty much exactly as I said, but with just a few more words in your case. As I mentioned before, I find this a really useful and often used feature. On cold mornings I set it to maximum red, which means I get hot air almost immediately from the auxiliary heater before the engine reaches normal operating temperature, then as the cabin heats up with the engine, I gradually scroll towards the middle position, ensuring perfect comfort at all times. Conversely, if I want cooler air on my face, without affecting the cabin temperature, I simply direct it towards the blue sector. I just wish other premium brands had this feature, but until they do, I wouldn't consider anything other than BMW for my next car - that's how much I like it. evaluates the air conditioning system. As for your answer to the OP's question, I agree with your diagnosis - with the engine warmed up, the vents under the front seats should exhaust air rearward at the same temperature as that set on the main control panel. I'm not sure if the air vents on the back of the armrest do the same or if they copy what you set on the scroll wheel, but I'll try to remember to check next time I will be in the car and post my results.
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| 2809 (296hp) | Quote: Posted by Jon D Pretty much exactly as I said, but with just a few more words in your case. Those of us of Irish descent are known to be somewhat liberal when it comes to spending opinions and money. On the other hand, our Scottish brothers are better known for being much more conservative when going with the same. (Although I must admit that you exceeded my liberal dose of verbalized thoughts with your last post.) Bill
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| lausanne (808hp) | This is BMW's way of charging you for what should be a standard on such an expensive car. If you don't have a quad zone (like me), there's no way to get hot air over the rear vent, that's it. The scroll located between the front center vents controls hot and cold air, even if the snowflake is on or off and even if the air conditioning is set. I was so frustrated when I discovered these design flaws. I even called BMW NA, no answer. Now I'm just used to it and sucked it up, there's not much I can do about it, that's how BMW designed it, that's BS. Luckily, the other good things about the car outweigh the bad, so in the end, it's not that bad..
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| rjktcj (302hp) | I just tested this and can confirm that I have the same problem. Dual zone extended A/C, auto 20C, no snowflake (shouldn't matter). Scroll wheel set to maximum heat. Result: Hot air entering through the front vents, cold air exiting through the rear ones. Next test - check this once the engine has reached optimum operating temperature, although I don't see how this would change anything (unless the rear air vents are on an entirely different circuit) . Regarding the scroll wheel I see - so if you don't want to be hit by heat/cold waves when there is a big difference between the ambient temperature and the target temperature you can adjust it, in which case I assumes that the air conditioning takes longer to reach the desired temperature. t.
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| 15101982 (600hp) | Quote: Originally published by Sharbotcom Those of us of Irish descent are known to be somewhat liberal when it comes to spending opinions and money. On the other hand, our Scottish brothers are better known for being much more conservative when going with the same. (Although I must admit you exceeded my liberal dose of verbalized thoughts with your last post.) Bill There you go, you're making assumptions about nationality. How do you know I'm not an Irishman living in Scotland?
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| girish (383hp) | Quote: Originally posted by Breach I just tested this and can confirm that I have the same problem. Dual zone extended A/C, auto 20C, no snowflake (shouldn't matter). Scroll wheel set to maximum heat. Result: Hot air entering through the front vents, cold air exiting through the rear ones. Next test - check this once the engine has reached optimum operating temperature, although I don't see how this would change anything (unless the rear air vents are on an entirely different circuit) . Regarding the scroll wheel I see - so if you don't want to be hit by heat/cold waves when there is a big difference between the ambient temperature and the target temperature you can adjust it, in which case I assumes that the air conditioning takes longer to reach the desired temperature. t. Violation: The flaw in your test is that you relied on the central volute to make the heat adjustment while measuring the effect on the rear ventilation. It (the front air vents under the control of the volute) only adjust the air flow intended to adjust the temperature of the driver's/front passenger's skin surface) and is not intended to be used to adjust the ambient temperature of the passenger compartment. In your case the ambient temperature of the passenger compartment is perhaps already at 20C which would therefore have no effect on the temperature of the rear air expressed. So, to test the rear ventilation of a cabin already at temperature, you need to significantly increase the temperature setting on the control, i.e. temporarily raise it to 26°C and see if the air flow rear adjusts upwards. Honestly, I can't see BMW designing two different dual-control cabin airflow systems - yours and mine. Therefore, if your vehicle's rear vent system (as several others have noted) behaves differently than mine, I suspect it is not working as intended. BTW, I'm not saying that you can't feel a lack of warm air in the rear vent, what I'm saying is that there is a possibility that there is a misunderstanding as to the when it will blow hot air, or is there any abnormality. or a defect in some vehicles (as there was a right-hand pull in some but not all) and your car arrives at a vehicle that manifests this problem. Bill
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| fergus1 (770hp) | Well, my test was: 1) Get in the car this morning, temperature - around 10°C 2) Start the car, air conditioning is on 3) Adjust as described above. In 5 minutes (the target temperature is obviously still not reached), the front vents were blowing hot air, the rear ones were producing cold. Anyway, I'll test further. Interesting.
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| lovess (269hp) | Quote: Originally posted by Jon D Now there you have it, making assumptions about nationality. How do you know I'm not Irish and live in Scotland? I don't know! But all Gaels are still good people! BTW, I have to admit I have a weakness for good scotch... like cars, everyone has an opinion, and in my opinion there is nothing better than a glass of Oban healthy - pure, with ice cubes or with a threat - whatever you want, everything is fine. Bill
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| awerty (651hp) | Quote: Originally posted by Breach Well, my test was: 1) Enter the temperature of the car this morning - around 10°C 2) Start the car, air conditioning is on 3) Set as described above. In 5 minutes (the target temperature is obviously still not reached), the front vents were blowing hot air, the rear ones were producing cold. Anyway, I'll test further. Interesting. Violation: Do me a favor and compare the temperature of the side vents with the temperature of the rear vents when you do your test and I will do the same tonight. Thanks, Bill
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| NoMods (301hp) | The scroll wheel located between the front center vents controls hot and cold air, even if the snowflake is on or off and, even if the air conditioning is set. This scroll wheel controls the outside air when the heat is turned up to maximum. actually warms the cabin. The purpose is primarily to allow the driver to direct cooler air towards their face to help them stay awake and alert. Whether or not the air conditioning is on has no bearing on the function of this dial WHEN the cabin temperature is set so that warm air enters the cabin. The dial simply directs outside air or cooler air generated by the air conditioning to these upper vents for the purpose mentioned above..
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| pirate2 (511hp) | Quote: Originally posted by Sharbotcom Breach: Do me a favor and compare the temperature of the side vents with the temperature of the rear vents when you do your test and I'll do the same tonight. Thanks, Bill Test completed. I went down. T13.5C. Vehicle entered. Close the center vents completely (set to 0). With the engine started, set the air conditioning to 28°C. Checking the front and rear side air vents. Result: warm, even hot, air came out of the rear air vents. 5 minutes later the air from the rear vents was already cooler and 5 minutes later it was completely cold (strong flow otherwise). The front side vents continually produced hot air. No, I don't think the back of the car has reached 28°C in the meantime. It's even weirder. I look forward to your results.
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| anna18 (98hp) | Quote: Originally posted by Breach Test completed. I went down. T13.5C. Vehicle entered. Close the center vents completely (set to 0). With the engine started, set the air conditioning to 28°C. Checking the front and rear side air vents. Result: warm, even hot, air came out of the rear air vents. 5 minutes later the air was already cooler and 5 minutes later it was completely cold. The front side vents still emitted hot air. No, I don't think the back of the car has reached 28°C in the meantime. It's even weirder. Looking forward to your results. This is starting to look like a sensor problem. First question: is there a temperature sensor located at the rear of the cabin? If so, it appears to be faulty in that it thinks the rear portion of the cabin has reached the desired ambient temperature. The proof (although not scientific or done in a truly controlled environment) is the fact that within the first few minutes after startup, the vents were expelling hot air. But why did it stop? It must rely on a sensor that controls it. It would be better if this was not linked to the famous points phenomenon
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| Swashplate (933hp) | Quote: Originally posted by Sharbotcom This is starting to smell like a sensor problem. First question: is there a temperature sensor located at the rear of the cabin? If so, it appears to be faulty in that it thinks the rear portion of the cabin has reached the desired ambient temperature. The proof (although not scientific or done in a truly controlled environment) is the fact that within the first few minutes after startup, the vents were expelling hot air. But why did it stop? It must rely on a sensor that controls it. This has no interest in being linked to the famous point phenomenon that I can't understand in the realoem diagrams, but the only temperature sensors that I see are located right next to the central vents: http:// realoem.com/bmw /showparts.do?...55&hg=64&fg=40
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| ChiTownM (550hp) | I've had my F11 since February and just realized that the rear vents only let out cool air. I guess it wasn't a factor during the summer so we didn't realize it, but now it's getting colder and colder. Is this intentional or a defect? For clarity I had the heater on at 20 degrees C and the front vents on medium warm air was coming out. The people in the back were complaining about the cold air. I turned the front fan selector to hot, it heated up but the rear didn't change. I turned the heat up to 28 degrees C just to test and the front heated up quickly, but the back kept blowing cool air. Could other owners please share their experiences before calling the dealership. Thank you so much
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| amor11 (907hp) | I don't want to sound obvious, but you switched the scroll wheel to the left of the central lock button to the red setting and turned off the snowflake correctly.?
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| 100880 (551hp) | Perfectly valid question. Yes on the steering wheel, no on the air conditioning. I never turn it off because I understand that it does not exclusively do cold, it manages the overall temperature control, heat and humidity level to prevent fogging..
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| 89moocows (548hp) | This roller next to the central lock may further affect the temperature coming out of the vents and rear, as I don't think you have four zone climate control, so try putting the rear roller on hot first . Although setting the temperature higher is helpful, setting the parchment hot or cold will have its effect. On the E60 this function is in the iDrive menu, I'm glad they put it back on the dashboard.
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| jenny15 (141hp) | [QUOTE=gatoman39,10853738]I don't want to sound obvious, but you switched the scroll wheel to the left of the central lock button to the red setting and turned off the snowflake, correct? In Auto mode, the snowflake has no effect. Regarding that scroll wheel, I've always wondered what it actually controls? I mean, you set a target temperature, you set the ventilation intensity and it's the air conditioner's job to reach and maintain the desired temperature, right? Does the wheel actually control the heat/cold level of the air ??
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| poopy3 (852hp) | Quote: Originally posted by Breach Regarding that scroll wheel - I've always wondered what it actually controls? I mean, you set a target temperature, you set the ventilation intensity and it's the air conditioner's job to reach and maintain the desired temperature, right? Does the wheel actually control the heat/cold level of the air? In essence, you are right. In my experience you should only cycle the dial in each season, let's say it's winter, you turn it to warm, summer to cold, spring and fall in the middle. This is what I do in my car.
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| tower (138hp) | Quote: Originally posted by Breach... Regarding that scroll wheel - I've always wondered what it actually controls? I mean, you set a target temperature, you set the ventilation intensity and it's the air conditioner's job to reach and maintain the desired temperature, right? Does the wheel actually control the heat/cold level of the air? The scroll wheel controls the fan temperature at face level and I consider it an extremely useful feature. I have the main temperature set to 20, which keeps the overall comfort to my liking, but I often push the wheel up or down to change the temperature zone around my face and upper body. It reacts very quickly and it only takes a few movements to have a noticeable effect.
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| omg999 (595hp) | Quote: Originally posted by AC_S5 This scroll next to central locking may further affect the temperature coming out of the vents and rear, as I don't think you have four zone climate control, so try to First set the scroll back to hot. Although setting the temperature higher is helpful, setting the parchment hot or cold will have its effect. On the E60 this feature is in the iDrive menu, I'm glad they put it back on the dashboard. I don't have a quad zone, just dual zone. I experimented a bit more on the commute to work this morning and adjusting the scroll wheel on the front had a minor effect on the rear air vents. It didn't make the air hot, but it went from freezing to lukewarm. Something is seriously wrong there
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| gotmilk? (420hp) | As for the purpose of the red/blue center scroll temperature control, it is as Jon D stated - for the purpose of adjusting the comfort level of your upper skin. In other words, the overall ambient temperature of the cabin zones is controlled by the temperature gauge of the corresponding zone (driver or passenger/rear with dual climate control and driver or front passenger or rear left passenger or rear right passenger with quadruple control) and the direct airflow temperature in the upper body is controlled by the scroll wheel located on the vent. For example, I generally keep my cabin temperature at 20 degrees Celsius and usually set the parchment to blue in summer and red in winter - however, especially in spring and fall, I adjust the parchment more often. This allows me to feel cooler or warmer depending on my attire while maintaining the ambient temperature of the cabin. Regarding the rear vents of a dual zone vehicle, I tested mine last night and noticed this: The air temperature expressed directly corresponded to the air conditioning set temperature on the front dashboard (j I put the command on all for this test). If I increased the temperature, the temperature and intensity of the air expressed through the rear vents increased. If I lowered the temperature, the air being expressed out the back corresponded lower. Note: 1) the car was already hot because I did the test when arriving at destination, 2) I believe, but I did not test, that if I had the control not set on everything, then the temperature of the air expressed in the rear would have matched the passenger A/C temperature setting - someone may want to test this, 3) the front center volute only affects the front center vents and does not has no effect on others (including the rear). So ultimately, if there is only cold air coming out of the rear vents and the driver and passenger climate control settings are such that the heat should be felt, this indicates one of two things: either the vehicle is not warmed up enough to direct hot air to the rear vents, or - Houston, we have a problem because you should have the hot air there. I hope this rambling helps. Bill
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| amor2009 (912hp) | Quote: Originally posted by Sharbotcom As for the purpose of the red/blue center scroll temperature control, it is as Jon D stated - for the purpose of adjusting your skin's comfort level superior. In other words, the overall ambient temperature of the cabin zones is controlled by the temperature gauge of the corresponding zone (driver or passenger/rear with dual climate control and driver or front passenger or rear left passenger or rear right passenger with quadruple control) and the direct airflow temperature in the upper body is controlled by the scroll wheel located on the vent. For example, I generally keep my cabin temperature at 20 degrees Celsius and usually set the parchment to blue in summer and red in winter - however, especially in spring and fall, I adjust the parchment more often. This allows me to feel cooler or warmer depending on my attire while maintaining the ambient temperature of the cabin... Pretty much exactly as I said, but with just a few more words in your case. As I mentioned before, I find this a really useful and often used feature. On cold mornings I set it to maximum red, which means I get hot air almost immediately from the auxiliary heater before the engine reaches normal operating temperature, then as the cabin heats up with the engine, I gradually scroll towards the middle position, ensuring perfect comfort at all times. Conversely, if I want cooler air on my face, without affecting the cabin temperature, I simply direct it towards the blue sector. I just wish other premium brands had this feature, but until they do, I wouldn't consider anything other than BMW for my next car - that's how much I like it. evaluates the air conditioning system. As for your answer to the OP's question, I agree with your diagnosis - with the engine warmed up, the vents under the front seats should exhaust air rearward at the same temperature as that set on the main control panel. I'm not sure if the air vents on the back of the armrest do the same or if they copy what you set on the scroll wheel, but I'll try to remember to check next time I will be in the car and post my results.
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| SilentHawk (464hp) | Quote: Posted by Jon D Pretty much exactly as I said, but with just a few more words in your case. Those of us of Irish descent are known to be somewhat liberal when it comes to spending opinions and money. On the other hand, our Scottish brothers are better known for being much more conservative when going with the same. (Although I must admit that you exceeded my liberal dose of verbalized thoughts with your last post.) Bill
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| 11121982 (160hp) | This is BMW's way of charging you for what should be a standard on such an expensive car. If you don't have a quad zone (like me), there's no way to get hot air over the rear vent, that's it. The scroll located between the front center vents controls hot and cold air, even if the snowflake is on or off and even if the air conditioning is set. I was so frustrated when I discovered these design flaws. I even called BMW NA, no answer. Now I'm just used to it and sucked it up, there's not much I can do about it, that's how BMW designed it, that's BS. Luckily, the other good things about the car outweigh the bad, so in the end, it's not that bad..
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| nickie1 (344hp) | I just tested this and can confirm that I have the same problem. Dual zone extended A/C, auto 20C, no snowflake (shouldn't matter). Scroll wheel set to maximum heat. Result: Hot air entering through the front vents, cold air exiting through the rear ones. Next test - check this once the engine has reached optimum operating temperature, although I don't see how this would change anything (unless the rear air vents are on an entirely different circuit) . Regarding the scroll wheel I see - so if you don't want to be hit by heat/cold waves when there is a big difference between the ambient temperature and the target temperature you can adjust it, in which case I assumes that the air conditioning takes longer to reach the desired temperature. t.
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| 141285 (187hp) | Quote: Originally posted by Sharbotcom Those of us of Irish descent are known to be somewhat liberal when it comes to spending opinions and money. On the other hand, our Scottish brothers are better known for being much more conservative when going with the same. (Although I must admit you exceeded my liberal dose of verbalized thoughts with your last post.) Bill There you go, you're making assumptions about nationality. How do you know I'm not an Irishman living in Scotland?
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| 1hahaha (975hp) | Quote: Originally posted by Breach I just tested this and can confirm that I have the same problem. Dual zone extended A/C, auto 20C, no snowflake (shouldn't matter). Scroll wheel set to maximum heat. Result: Hot air entering through the front vents, cold air exiting through the rear ones. Next test - check this once the engine has reached optimum operating temperature, although I don't see how this would change anything (unless the rear air vents are on an entirely different circuit) . Regarding the scroll wheel I see - so if you don't want to be hit by heat/cold waves when there is a big difference between the ambient temperature and the target temperature you can adjust it, in which case I assumes that the air conditioning takes longer to reach the desired temperature. t. Violation: The flaw in your test is that you relied on the central volute to make the heat adjustment while measuring the effect on the rear ventilation. It (the front air vents under the control of the volute) only adjust the air flow intended to adjust the temperature of the driver's/front passenger's skin surface) and is not intended to be used to adjust the ambient temperature of the passenger compartment. In your case the ambient temperature of the passenger compartment is perhaps already at 20C which would therefore have no effect on the temperature of the rear air expressed. So, to test the rear ventilation of a cabin already at temperature, you need to significantly increase the temperature setting on the control, i.e. temporarily raise it to 26°C and see if the air flow rear adjusts upwards. I honestly don't see BMW designing two different dual-control cabin airflow systems - yours and mine. Therefore, if your vehicle's rear vent system (as several others have noted) behaves differently than mine, I suspect it is not working as intended. BTW, I'm not saying that you can't feel a lack of warm air in the rear vent, what I'm saying is that there is a possibility that there is a misunderstanding as to the when it will blow hot air, or is there any abnormality. or a defect in some vehicles (as there was a right-hand pull in some but not all) and your car arrives at a vehicle that manifests this problem. Bill
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| kitcat (806hp) | Well, my test was: 1) Get in the car this morning, temperature - around 10°C 2) Start the car, air conditioning is on 3) Adjust as described above. In 5 minutes (the target temperature is obviously still not reached), the front vents were blowing hot air, the rear ones were producing cold. Anyway, I'll test further. Interesting.
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| nayeli1 (216hp) | Quote: Originally posted by Jon D Now there you have it, making assumptions about nationality. How do you know I'm not Irish and live in Scotland? I don't know! But all Gaels are still good people! BTW, I have to admit I have a weakness for good scotch... like cars, everyone has an opinion, and in my opinion there is nothing better than a glass of Oban healthy - pure, with ice cubes or with a threat - whatever you want, everything is fine. Bill
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| mcnabb5 (860hp) | Quote: Originally posted by Breach Well, my test was: 1) Enter the temperature of the car this morning - around 10°C 2) Start the car, air conditioning is on 3) Set as described above. In 5 minutes (the target temperature is obviously not yet reached), the front vents were blowing hot air, the rear ones were producing cold. Anyway, I'll test further. Interesting. Violation: Do me a favor and compare the temperature of the side vents with the temperature of the rear vents when you do your test and I will do the same tonight. Thanks, Bill
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| fujifilm (52hp) | The scroll wheel located between the front center vents controls hot and cold air, even if the snowflake is on or off and, even if the air conditioning is set. This scroll wheel controls the outside air when the heat is turned up to maximum. actually warms the cabin. The purpose is primarily to allow the driver to direct cooler air towards their face to help them stay awake and alert. Whether or not the air conditioning is on has no bearing on the function of this dial WHEN the cabin temperature is set so that warm air enters the cabin. The dial simply directs either outside air or cooler air generated by the air conditioning to these upper vents for the purpose mentioned above..
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| bobobo (587hp) | Quote: Originally posted by Sharbotcom Breach: Do me a favor and compare the temperature of the side vents with the temperature of the rear vents when you do your test and I'll do the same tonight. Thanks, Bill Test completed. I went down. T13.5C. Vehicle entered. Close the center vents completely (set to 0). With the engine started, set the air conditioning to 28°C. Checking the front and rear side air vents. Result: warm, even hot, air came out of the rear air vents. 5 minutes later the air from the rear vents was already cooler and 5 minutes later it was completely cold (strong flow otherwise). The front side vents continually produced hot air. No, I don't think the back of the car has reached 28°C in the meantime. It's even weirder. I look forward to your results.
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| 963741852 (695hp) | Quote: Originally posted by Breach Test completed. I went down. T13.5C. Vehicle entered. Close the center vents completely (set to 0). With the engine started, set the air conditioning to 28°C. Checking the front and rear side air vents. Result: warm, even hot, air came out of the rear air vents. 5 minutes later the air was already cooler and 5 minutes later it was completely cold. The front side vents still emitted hot air. No, I don't think the back of the car has reached 28°C in the meantime. It's even weirder. Looking forward to your results. This is starting to look like a sensor problem. First question: is there a temperature sensor located at the rear of the cabin? If so, it appears to be faulty in that it thinks the rear portion of the cabin has reached the desired ambient temperature. The proof (although not scientific or done in a truly controlled environment) is the fact that within the first few minutes after startup, the vents were expelling hot air. But why did it stop? It must rely on a sensor that controls it. It would be better if this was not linked to the famous points phenomenon
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| amirul (333hp) | Quote: Originally posted by Sharbotcom This is starting to smell like a sensor problem. First question: is there a temperature sensor located at the rear of the cabin? If so, it appears to be faulty in that it thinks the rear portion of the cabin has reached the desired ambient temperature. The proof (although not scientific or done in a truly controlled environment) is the fact that within the first few minutes after startup, the vents were expelling hot air. But why did it stop? It must rely on a sensor that controls it. This has no interest in being linked to the famous point phenomenon that I can't understand in the realoem diagrams, but the only temperature sensors that I see are located right next to the central vents: http:// realoem.com/bmw /showparts.do?...55&hg=64&fg=40
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| kobayashi (639hp) | Let me see...? My 535xi is my first BMW. She's like my female dog. I love taking him for a drive! That's right HER... She looks good and loves to be driven with a little spirit! And let me tell you...she loves long trips...New York to North Carolina is a good time for her...LOL. It's all about driving the car.....I love it! Oh, by the way, people like to watch her so I bathe her often......
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| jessica91 (561hp) | Good. Sounds like a good relationship.
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| 211002 (80hp) | Let me see...? My 535xi is my first BMW. She's like my female dog. I love taking him for a drive! That's right HER... She looks good and loves to be driven with a little spirit! And let me tell you...she loves long trips...New York to North Carolina is a good time for her...LOL. It's all about driving the car.....I love it! Oh, by the way, people like to watch her so I bathe her often......
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| tenerife1 (668hp) | Good. Sounds like a good relationship.
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| pimpin6 (321hp) | I was driving my new car (6000km) on a mountain pass and a snowplow sent a piece of gravel and stones onto my car. After assessing the damage, including a cracked windshield, multiple paint chips, etc., I discovered that one of the worst areas was the headlights. They appear to have chipped quite easily with a number of small pustule marks and are almost hazy. Has this mist happened to anyone else? My insurance company will cover everything but due to the cost of the repair I will have a permanent damage report on my car. This statement will impact future resale.
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| lifetime1 (717hp) | This is why wearing a transparent bra is a good idea. Especially if you do a lot of highway driving, I've learned my lesson from my past cars. I find that salt during the winter months really does a lot of damage to the headlight cover (like sandblasting, which results in "pitting"). The haze most likely results from exposure to UV rays during the ride. The clear bra helps reduce exposure a bit and just prolongs the hazing effect over time..
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| spook (91hp) | Does the transparent bra cover the lights? maybe worth looking into after the fix. I don't want to be afraid of driving on the highway.
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| alimovva (186hp) | Search for Ventureshield. Simply Google “Ventureshield headlight” or “Ventureshield paint protection film”. This is a thin, clear plastic film (something like window tint film) applied to the entire headlight (wrapped). Here in Toronto. It costs $40 per headlight.
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| kolovrat (299hp) | Quote: Originally posted by bobblehead Search for Ventureshield. Simply Google “Ventureshield headlight” or “Ventureshield paint protection film”. This is a thin, clear plastic film (something like window tint film) applied to the entire headlight (wrapped). Here in Toronto. It costs $40 per headlight. Guys, I'm in the same boat. I have a 550i M and after a normal drive to work the other day I discovered that my headlights were chipped. The dealer says they cost $1,500 each! Is there a way to wax or smooth chipped plastic? What do you recommend? I appreciate the help.
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| qweqwe11 (86hp) | If it's chipped by rock, it's going to be difficult to DIY, you may need to hire a professional auto detailer to repair it for you. I would try this route first. Quote: Originally posted by Helinas Guys, I'm in the same boat. I have a 550i M and after a normal drive to work the other day I discovered that my headlights were chipped. The dealer says they cost $1,500 each! Is there a way to wax or smooth chipped plastic? What do you recommend? I appreciate the help.
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| angel6 (66hp) | Has anyone used the X-Pel headlight protection film system? It's about $48 for the DIY kit. http://www.autoanything.com/lights/6...FQf0nAodpRIA6w They have kits for the 2011 and 2012 F10 but not the 2013. Have there been any changes to the headlights on the 2013? I'm thinking of getting it for my 2013 and trying it. Does anyone have any experience? Thanks Vi 2013 535i Msport
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| DirrtysAnchez335i (832hp) | There is a 3M kit to refresh the headlights, DYI style... Google, there are several videos on YouTube
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| ekbnrf (529hp) | Quote: Originally posted by Jasper505 Has anyone used the X-Pel headlight protection film system? It's about $48 for the DIY kit. http://www.autoanything.com/lights/6...FQf0nAodpRIA6w They have kits for the 2011 and 2012 F10 but not the 2013. Have there been any changes to the headlights on the 2013? I'm thinking of getting it for my 2013 and trying it. Does anyone have any experience? Thanks Vi 2013 535i Msport, I will install this http://www.paintshield-china.com/en/ costs $102, includes headlights and fog lights installed and the film is not very thin. All supercars have this. A must-have item.
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| 76pilot (471hp) | I was driving my new car (6000km) on a mountain pass and a snowplow sent a piece of gravel and stones onto my car. After assessing the damage, including a cracked windshield, multiple paint chips, etc., I discovered that one of the worst areas was the headlights. They appear to have chipped quite easily with a number of small pustule marks and are almost hazy. Has this mist happened to anyone else? My insurance company will cover everything but due to the cost of the repair I will have a permanent damage report on my car. This statement will impact future resale.
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| brandon24 (118hp) | This is why wearing a transparent bra is a good idea. Especially if you do a lot of highway driving, I've learned my lesson from my past cars. I find that salt during the winter months really does a lot of damage to the headlight cover (like sandblasting, which results in "pitting"). The haze most likely results from exposure to UV rays during the ride. The clear bra helps reduce exposure a bit and just prolongs the hazing effect over time..
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| jeff22 (331hp) | Does the transparent bra cover the lights? maybe worth looking into after the fix. I don't want to be afraid of driving on the highway.
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| valerka (618hp) | Search for Ventureshield. Simply Google “Ventureshield headlight” or “Ventureshield paint protection film”. This is a thin, clear plastic film (something like window tint film) applied to the entire headlight (wrapped). Here in Toronto. It costs $40 per headlight.
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| Iwa Leeo (481hp) | Quote: Originally posted by bobblehead Search for Ventureshield. Simply Google “Ventureshield headlight” or “Ventureshield paint protection film”. This is a thin, clear plastic film (something like window tint film) applied to the entire headlight (wrapped). Here in Toronto. It costs $40 per headlight. Guys, I'm in the same boat. I have a 550i M and after a normal drive to work the other day I discovered that my headlights were chipped. The dealer says they cost $1,500 each! Is there a way to wax or smooth chipped plastic? What do you recommend? I appreciate the help.
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| snoopy3 (495hp) | If it's chipped by stone, it's going to be difficult to DIY, you may need to hire a professional auto detailer to repair it for you. I would try this route first. Quote: Originally posted by Helinas Guys, I'm in the same boat. I have a 550i M and after a normal drive to work the other day I discovered that my headlights were chipped. The dealer says they cost $1,500 each! Is there a way to wax or smooth chipped plastic? What do you recommend? I appreciate the help.
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| tommy22 (130hp) | Has anyone used the X-Pel headlight protection film system? It's about $48 for the DIY kit. http://www.autoanything.com/lights/6...FQf0nAodpRIA6w They have kits for the 2011 and 2012 F10 but not the 2013. Have there been any changes to the headlights on the 2013? I'm thinking of getting it for my 2013 and trying it out. Does anyone have any experience? Thanks Vi 2013 535i Msport
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| crystal13 (442hp) | There is a 3M kit to refresh the headlights, DYI style... Google, there are several videos on YouTube
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| maelys (28hp) | Quote: Originally posted by Jasper505 Has anyone used the X-Pel headlight protection film system? It's about $48 for the DIY kit. http://www.autoanything.com/lights/6...FQf0nAodpRIA6w They have kits for the 2011 and 2012 F10 but not the 2013. Have there been any changes to the headlights on the 2013? I'm thinking of getting it for my 2013 and trying it. Does anyone have any experience? Thanks Vi 2013 535i Msport, I will install this http://www.paintshield-china.com/en/ costs $102, includes headlights and fog lights installed and the film is not very thin. All supercars have this. A must-have item.
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| 199007 (399hp) | If any of you have encountered a squeaky door, noticed moving slowly over bumps, etc., it looks like I've managed to sort that out. Clean the door rubber strips with dishwashing liquid and water on a tissue, then wipe again with a tissue. I had a similar problem with my E39 in the past for which I applied BMW Silicon spray - however, read in the F10 manual not to apply silicone to rubber parts. the problem seems to have disappeared. I was surprised how much dirt was on the rubber seals, even though the car is only about 10 days old. I thought I'd post in case any of you have a similar problem. All the crunches or rattles drive me crazy!
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| fireg8 (446hp) | Quote: Originally posted by AP If any of you have encountered a squeaky door, noticed moving slowly over bumps, etc., looks like I've successfully fixed that problem. Clean the door rubber strips with dishwashing liquid and water on a tissue, then wipe again with a tissue. I had a similar problem with my E39 in the past for which I applied BMW Silicon spray - however, read in the F10 manual not to apply silicone to rubber parts. the problem seems to have disappeared. I was surprised how much dirt was on the rubber seals, even though the car is only about 10 days old. I thought I'd post in case any of you have a similar problem. All the cracking or rattling is driving me crazy! Good to know you solved this problem! I'm also extremely opposed to creaking and rattling. Other concerns so far?
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| fuck24 (413hp) | Very good, even if the car seems to pull to the left. Tire pressure was checked and found to be a little low (I thought pdi would mean they were delivered with them properly adjusted). Despite this, I still have the impression that he pulls to the left. I try to find a road without slopes to be safe. I'm not sure tires are more prone to "proper" tires »?
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| chivas16 (937hp) | well unfortunately the problem is back. If you Google squeaky doors and squeaky BMWs, there are tons of results about it and it seems to be a very common problem. As others have noted, if the window is lowered a few millimeters the problem disappears. So, as others have found, it's not the flexible rubber seals around the door that are where the seal at the top of the door touches the body. I cleaned with meth and dishwashing liquid but the problem came back. The BMW manual says not to use anything containing silicon, so I won't. there have also been references to Gummi Pfledge, although BMW apparently no longer sells it. (they sell their own product via BMW Original Car Rubber Vinyl Plastic Protector 300m (83 12 0 301 480) for reference) Other than cleaning again with dishwashing liquid, I don't know what to do. Ideas?
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