| Username: | Message: |
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| sunshine32 (248hp) | Hello, does anyone know if I can put a 2013 BMW 528 trunk lid on a 2015 535i? Does that fit? Thanks
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| federation (393hp) | Same body, so yeah. The only differences between models are powertrain emissions and cosmetic things like bumpers and lights. Trunk lid the same
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| florida4 (402hp) | You can also determine this quickly and easily by using one of the online parts database sites such as www.realoem.com or www.bmwfans.info or http://bimmercat.com. If you use one of these websites and enter the last 7 digits of your VIN to bring up the trunk lid diagram, you can click on the 11 digit BMW part number to see which other BMW models use the same part Number. If there are any differences or changes during production, this would also be revealed and help you determine which models are eligible as used parts donors. EDIT I clicked on the part number for item #1 and this is the list of BMW models that use the same trunk lid: https://www.realoem.com/bmw/enUS/par...552&series=F10
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| f10andrii (323hp) | Hello, does anyone know if I can put a 2013 BMW 528 trunk lid on a 2015 535i? Does that fit? Thanks
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| augustin (87hp) | Same body, so yeah. The only differences between models are powertrain emissions and cosmetic things like bumpers and lights. Trunk lid the same
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| MI6 (299hp) | You can also determine this quickly and easily by using one of the online parts database sites such as www.realoem.com or www.bmwfans.info or http://bimmercat.com. If you use one of these websites and enter the last 7 digits of your VIN to bring up the trunk lid diagram, you can click on the 11 digit BMW part number to see which other BMW models use the same part Number. If there are any differences or changes during production, this would also be revealed and help you determine which models are eligible as used parts donors. EDIT I clicked on the part number for item #1 and this is the list of BMW models that use the same trunk lid: https://www.realoem.com/bmw/enUS/par...552&series=F10
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| black335xi (55hp) | Hi everyone...just wanted to let you know that I will be offering a few things for sale along with the car. I'll post details and pictures in a few days, but in short: JB4, AC Schnitzer springs, Stop Tech big brake kit at the front, active GTHOUSE championship cat-back exhaust, 20-inch 343M wheels with tires , carbon fiber diffuser, carbon fiber spoiler...Thanks
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| daddyyanke (85hp) | Where are you???
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| warriors2 (128hp) | Franklin Tennessee 15 miles south of Nashville
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| life21 (333hp) | Hawking post
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| hollywood5 (245hp) | Quote: Originally written by Iti Hello everyone...just wanted to let you know that along with the car I will have a few things for sale. I'll post details and pictures in a few days, but in short it's jb4, ac schnitzer springs, Stop Tech Big Brake Kit front, active GTHOUSE championship cat-back exhaust, 20" 343M wheels with tires, carbon fiber diffuser , carbon fiber spoiler...Thanks. Any pictures of the diffuser? Price? Thanks.
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| king20 (817hp) | I will post everything with pictures in the sales section at the end of next week. The car is n63tu
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| militaire (785hp) | It would be nice to know what car you have
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| arien (506hp) | 2014 550 ix n63tu
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| asshole (539hp) | Hi everyone...just wanted to let you know that I will be putting a few things up for sale along with the car. I'll post details and pictures in a few days, but in short: JB4, AC Schnitzer springs, Stop Tech big brake kit at the front, active GTHOUSE championship cat-back exhaust, 20-inch 343M wheels with tires , carbon fiber diffuser, carbon fiber spoiler...Thanks
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| 112266 (475hp) | Where are you???
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| hang10 (351hp) | Franklin Tennessee 15 miles south of Nashville
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| privetik (951hp) | Hawking post
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| 13641364 (231hp) | Quote: Originally written by Iti Hello everyone...just wanted to let you know that along with the car I will have a few things for sale. I'll post details and pictures in a few days, but in short it's jb4, ac schnitzer springs, Stop Tech Big Brake Kit front, active GTHOUSE championship cat-back exhaust, 20" 343M wheels with tires, carbon fiber diffuser , carbon fiber spoiler...Thanks. Any pictures of the diffuser? Price? Thanks.
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| 27111979 (145hp) | I will post everything with pictures in the sales section at the end of next week. The car is n63tu
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| blazeit420 (982hp) | It would be nice to know what car you have
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| christmas7 (761hp) | 2014 550 ix n63tu
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| 28071994 (527hp) | I'm just curious if anyone else drives their F10 at Open Track Days/HPDE events? I wonder how they work and how the brakes hold up. I just recently got another f10 (535i 6MT) and will be using it for this purpose when I'm not lugging the kids around and would like to know what deficiencies it has when subjected to this type of stress.
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| 120806 (189hp) | No one? I know it's not a popular platform for this, but I expected there to be at least a few rogues here willing to beat their F10 in more than just a straight line!
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| mshaw246 (434hp) | Too heavy. The brakes and tires probably won't last a day.
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| md2020 (522hp) | That would be interesting to see! I kind of enjoy how my F10 feels in the corners. If I get the chance, I wouldn't mind driving my car in an autocross. I'm hoping to get it to the 1/4 soon, but it's just an FBO 535i xDrive with JB4
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| 115 (174hp) | Let's put it this way. Name a single factor about the F10 that makes you believe it is a good tracking car. There is none. To start, you'd have to spend $2,600 on KW V3s, and that won't even be enough.
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| wilton (835hp) | Quote: Originally written by Hella-Buggin' Too heavy. The brakes and tires probably won't last a day. It's really not much heavier (~700 pounds) than the Porsche 997 I just sold. Had a lot of fun with it. Quote: Quote from spielnicht Let's put it this way. Name a single factor about the F10 that makes you believe it is a good tracking car. There is none. To start, you'd have to spend $2,600 on KW V3s, and that won't even be enough. Do any of you have experience with the F10 on a road course? I specifically asked for impressions from those who have done this. I have had a NASA and SCCA license for years, already own a dedicated race car and bought my F10 535i 6MT as a fun family vehicle that I could have some fun with if I wanted to use it as an instructor vehicle. I wasn't looking for impressions as to why I shouldn't pursue it. I've already looked into the suspension and feel it's more than adequate for what I'm going to be doing with it. I was more concerned about other vulnerabilities of this type of stress.
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| 030991 (566hp) | The 5 Series is arguably better than a typical 3 Series IMO in every way, including a more advanced suspension that can be slightly improved even over the base version with Koni shocks and PSS tires. Even the standard G30 seats make great sport seats if you can fit in them (standard F10 seats are more spacious, ahem). My stock LCI 5 Series came with a sport transmission, 18-inch wheels/45 tires, and better steering response than any M335i I've ever tried (let alone on the BMW track).).
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| primavara (762hp) | I'm tracking mine
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| denis1991 (591hp) | I tracked mine once about a month or two ago. The car is a 16 535i M Sport with DHP and IAS on OEM 19 models with runflats. Drove 5 laps at Palm Beach Intl Raceway here in Florida with an instructor. The car is definitely heavy, there's no getting around it. Still, it worked out well. Didn't feel as big as I expected. I wasn't on the road that long, but the brakes never let up. I actually braked after the teacher said to and there was no problem slowing down in the designated space. I changed direction quickly and confidently, I was really impressed in the longer, slower and tighter corners. I drove faster and faster every lap and the car held its line every time. It's a lot more fun than I expected. I've only briefly driven other 535s with the standard M Sport suspension, so I can't really compare, but I have to assume that the DHP has significantly improved handling on the track. I tried a lap with automatic shifting, but even in Sport+ mode the transmission felt sluggish and inclined to upshift too much (an odd complaint considering how it behaves in normal road driving). Regardless, you will definitely need to change your own gear to make it respond adequately. With all of that said, I'm not sure how competitive it would be compared to anything else someone might want to race on the track. If you're just looking for more fun than possible on the road, highly recommended.
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| riding (502hp) | Quote: Originally posted by Bmwdoubles_ I'm tracking mine. Looks great! How did your car perform? Did you have to fix any vulnerabilities???
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| lolypop (337hp) | Quote: Originally posted by Matt338. I tracked mine once about a month or two ago. The car is a '16 535i M Sport with DHP and IAS on OEM '19 models with runflats. Drove 5 laps at Palm Beach International Raceway here in Florida with an instructor. The car is definitely heavy, there's no getting around it. Still, it worked out well. Didn't feel as big as I expected. I wasn't on the road that long, but the brakes never let up. I actually braked after the teacher said to and there was no problem slowing down in the designated space. I changed direction quickly and confidently, I was really impressed in the longer, slower and tighter corners. I drove faster and faster every lap and the car held its line every time. It's a lot more fun than I expected. I've only briefly driven other 535s with the standard M Sport suspension, so I can't really compare, but I have to assume that the DHP has significantly improved handling on the track. I tried a lap with automatic shifting, but even in Sport+ mode the transmission felt sluggish and inclined to upshift too much (an odd complaint considering how it behaves in normal road driving). Regardless, you will definitely need to change your own gear to make it respond adequately. With all that said, I'm not sure how competitive it would be against, well, pretty much anything else someone might want to drive on the track. If you just want to have more fun than you can on the road, highly recommended. That's good news about the brakes. I've already ordered drilled rotors and upgraded pads, but I really don't feel there's a need to build any big brake kit since this isn't a dedicated track car. As a concession to being forced to opt for a larger everyday vehicle, I found the lightest F10 possible and waited a long time to find a plain manual version of the 535i. It weighs just under 3,700 pounds. without me in it. With the H&R springs, H&R stabilizers and Koni adjustable shocks, I think it holds up quite well.
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| stakan (410hp) | Quote: Originally written by Laserbeam...ahem. That's good news about the brakes. I've already ordered drilled rotors and upgraded pads, but I really don't feel there's a need to build any big brake kit since this isn't a dedicated track car. As a concession to being forced to opt for a larger everyday vehicle, I found the lightest F10 possible and waited a long time to find a plain manual version of the 535i. It weighs just under 3,700 pounds. without me in it. With the H&R springs, the H&R stabilizers and the adjustable Koni shock absorbers, I think it holds up quite well. Which rotors and pads did you ultimately choose? When my brake rotors get hot in the canyons, my steering wheel starts to shake a little when braking. I'm trying to figure out what the best options are for our F10.
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| Qy5tOgR996 (777hp) | Quote: Originally posted by Laserbeam...er Quote: Originally posted by Bmwdoubles_ I'm tracking mine. Looks great! How did your car perform? Did you have to fix any vulnerabilities? The car didn't run too bad, 2:14 at Fontana Speedway. I think with the new hardware I have and fueling I can get under 2 minutes. The weak point is the rigidity of the chassis. I upgraded my sway bars, springs and suspension and increased the tire width.
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| 15021987 (808hp) | Quote: Originally written by nwob, which rotors and pads did you ultimately choose? When my brake rotors get hot in the canyons, my steering wheel starts to shake a little when braking. I'm trying to figure out what the best options are for our F10. I chose the Powerstop kit. I've had good luck with their products in the past and for the price the value for money can't be beat. They have beaten their rotors to death on the track and they have held up very well. Quote: Originally written by Bmwdoubles_ The car didn't run too bad, 2:14 at Fontana Speedway. I think with the new hardware I have and fueling I can get under 2 minutes. The weak point is the rigidity of the chassis. I upgraded my sway bars, springs and suspension and increased the tire width. I thought for a long time whether I should start installing polyurethane bushings in the vehicle or whether it would be worth the effort. I think it would be beneficial to work on the rear subframe bushings, at least if I haven't convinced myself to drop the subframe yet.
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| dave22 (570hp) | Quote: Originally posted by Laserbeam...er Quote: Originally posted by nwob What rotors and pads did you end up using? When my brake rotors get hot in the canyons, my steering wheel starts to shake a little when braking. I'm trying to figure out what the best options are for our F10. I chose the Powerstop kit. I've had good luck with their products in the past and for the price the value for money can't be beat. They have beaten their rotors to death on the track and they have held up very well. Quote: Originally written by Bmwdoubles_ The car didn't run too bad, 2:14 at Fontana Speedway. I think with the new hardware I have and fueling I can get under 2 minutes. The weak point is the rigidity of the chassis. I upgraded my sway bars, springs and suspension and increased the tire width. I thought for a long time whether I should start installing polyurethane bushings in the vehicle or whether it would be worth the effort. I think it would be beneficial to work on the rear subframe bushings if I haven't gotten around to dropping the subframe yet. This is great news about the Power Stop product. However, I am happy with FCP's lifetime brake pads and rotors. If you're serious about mounts like me, check out this expensive option from VTT: https://vargasturbo.com/product/vtt-...mount-inserts/ And they claim to have some level of NVH in stock
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| bellezza (302hp) | Quote: Originally written by Bmwdoubles_ This is great news about the Power Stop product. However, I am not satisfied with FCP's lifetime brake pads and rotors. If you're serious about mounts like me, check out this expensive option from VTT: https://vargasturbo.com/product/vtt-...mount-inserts/ And it claims to retain some stock . NVH Nice! I had never seen them before! Based on the design, I imagine it doesn't transfer much for NVH, just helps stabilize the rubber bushing. I like this design and I don't think $150 is a bad price for it. I spent almost $500 on the engine, transmission and dogbone torque arm mounts on my previous HPDE/family car (Audi S3). I was looking for about 85 Duro engine and transmission mounts for the F10 but hadn't found any options yet.
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| maldonado1 (915hp) | I'm just curious if anyone else drives their F10 at Open Track Days/HPDE events? I wonder how they work and how the brakes hold up. I just recently got another f10 (535i 6MT) and will be using it for this purpose when I'm not lugging the kids around and would like to know what deficiencies it has when subjected to this type of stress.
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| fuck50 (754hp) | No one? I know it's not a popular platform for this, but I expected there to be at least a few rogues here willing to beat their F10 in more than just a straight line!
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| hazard (123hp) | Too heavy. The brakes and tires probably won't last a day.
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| Jun-64 (471hp) | That would be interesting to see! I kind of enjoy how my F10 feels in the corners. If I get the chance, I wouldn't mind driving my car in an autocross. I'm hoping to get it to the 1/4 soon, but it's just an FBO 535i xDrive with JB4
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| 121980 (460hp) | Let's put it this way. Name a single factor about the F10 that makes you believe it is a good tracking car. There is none. To start, you'd have to spend $2,600 on KW V3s, and that won't even be enough.
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| guille (697hp) | Quote: Originally written by Hella-Buggin' Too heavy. The brakes and tires probably won't last a day. It's really not much heavier (~700 pounds) than the Porsche 997 I just sold. Had a lot of fun with it. Quote: Quote from spielnicht Let's put it this way. Name a single factor about the F10 that makes you believe it is a good tracking car. There is none. To start, you'd have to spend $2,600 on KW V3s, and that won't even be enough. Do any of you have experience with the F10 on a road course? I specifically asked for impressions from those who have done this. I have had a NASA and SCCA license for years, already own a dedicated race car and bought my F10 535i 6MT as a fun family vehicle that I could have some fun with if I wanted to use it as an instructor vehicle. I wasn't looking for impressions as to why I shouldn't pursue it. I've already looked into the suspension and feel it's more than adequate for what I'm going to be doing with it. I was more concerned about other vulnerabilities of this type of stress.
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| jiefang998 (362hp) | The 5 Series is arguably better than a typical 3 Series IMO in every way, including a more advanced suspension that can be slightly improved even over the base version with Koni shocks and PSS tires. Even the standard G30 seats make great sport seats if you can fit in them (standard F10 seats are more spacious, ahem). My stock LCI 5 Series came with a sport transmission, 18-inch wheels/45 tires, and better steering response than any M335i I've ever tried (let alone on the BMW track).).
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| ranjana (454hp) | I'm tracking mine
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| asp17 (778hp) | I tracked mine once about a month or two ago. The car is a 16 535i M Sport with DHP and IAS on OEM 19 models with runflats. Drove 5 laps at Palm Beach Intl Raceway here in Florida with an instructor. The car is definitely heavy, there's no getting around it. Still, it worked out well. Didn't feel as big as I expected. I wasn't on the road that long, but the brakes never let up. I actually braked after the teacher said to and there was no problem slowing down in the designated space. I changed direction quickly and confidently, I was really impressed in the longer, slower and tighter corners. I drove faster and faster every lap and the car held its line every time. It's a lot more fun than I expected. I've only briefly driven other 535s with the standard M Sport suspension, so I can't really compare, but I have to assume that the DHP has significantly improved handling on the track. I tried a lap with automatic shifting, but even in Sport+ mode the transmission felt sluggish and inclined to upshift too much (an odd complaint considering how it behaves in normal road driving). Regardless, you will definitely need to change your own gear to make it respond adequately. With all of that said, I'm not sure how competitive it would be compared to anything else someone might want to race on the track. If you're just looking for more fun than possible on the road, highly recommended.
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| pm (458hp) | Quote: Originally posted by Bmwdoubles_ I'm tracking mine. Looks great! How did your car perform? Did you have to fix any vulnerabilities???
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| yogi (341hp) | Quote: Originally posted by Matt338. I tracked mine once about a month or two ago. The car is a '16 535i M Sport with DHP and IAS on OEM '19 models with runflats. Drove 5 laps at Palm Beach International Raceway here in Florida with an instructor. The car is definitely heavy, there's no getting around it. Still, it worked out well. Didn't feel as big as I expected. I wasn't on the road that long, but the brakes never let up. I actually braked after the teacher said to and there was no problem slowing down in the designated space. I changed direction quickly and confidently, I was really impressed in the longer, slower and tighter corners. I drove faster and faster every lap and the car held its line every time. It's a lot more fun than I expected. I've only briefly driven other 535s with the standard M Sport suspension, so I can't really compare, but I have to assume that the DHP has significantly improved handling on the track. I tried a lap with automatic shifting, but even in Sport+ mode the transmission felt sluggish and inclined to upshift too much (an odd complaint considering how it behaves in normal road driving). Regardless, you will definitely need to change your own gear to make it respond adequately. With all that said, I'm not sure how competitive it would be against, well, pretty much anything else someone might want to drive on the track. If you just want to have more fun than you can on the road, highly recommended. That's good news about the brakes. I've already ordered drilled rotors and upgraded pads, but I really don't feel there's a need to build any big brake kit since this isn't a dedicated track car. As a concession to being forced to opt for a larger everyday vehicle, I found the lightest F10 possible and waited a long time to find a plain manual version of the 535i. It weighs just under 3,700 pounds. without me in it. With the H&R springs, H&R stabilizers and Koni adjustable shocks, I think it holds up quite well.
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| barfield13 (176hp) | Quote: Originally written by Laserbeam...ahem. That's good news about the brakes. I've already ordered drilled rotors and upgraded pads, but I really don't feel there's a need to build any big brake kit since this isn't a dedicated track car. As a concession to being forced to opt for a larger everyday vehicle, I found the lightest F10 possible and waited a long time to find a plain manual version of the 535i. It weighs just under 3,700 pounds. without me in it. With the H&R springs, the H&R stabilizers and the adjustable Koni shock absorbers, I think it holds up quite well. Which rotors and pads did you ultimately choose? When my brake rotors get hot in the canyons, my steering wheel starts to shake a little when braking. I'm trying to figure out what the best options are for our F10.
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| chosenone (398hp) | Quote: Originally posted by Laserbeam...er Quote: Originally posted by Bmwdoubles_ I'm tracking mine. Looks great! How did your car perform? Did you have to fix any vulnerabilities? The car didn't run too bad, 2:14 at Fontana Speedway. I think with the new hardware I have and fueling I can get under 2 minutes. The weak point is the rigidity of the chassis. I upgraded my sway bars, springs and suspension and increased the tire width.
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| 958506 (388hp) | Quote: Originally written by nwob, which rotors and pads did you ultimately choose? When my brake rotors get hot in the canyons, my steering wheel starts to shake a little when braking. I'm trying to figure out what the best options are for our F10. I chose the Powerstop kit. I've had good luck with their products in the past and for the price the value for money can't be beat. They have beaten their rotors to death on the track and they have held up very well. Quote: Originally written by Bmwdoubles_ The car didn't run too bad, 2:14 at Fontana Speedway. I think with the new hardware I have and fueling I can get under 2 minutes. The weak point is the rigidity of the chassis. I upgraded my sway bars, springs and suspension and increased the tire width. I thought for a long time whether I should start installing polyurethane bushings in the vehicle or whether it would be worth the effort. I think it would be beneficial to work on the rear subframe bushings, at least if I haven't convinced myself to drop the subframe yet.
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| nathan08 (622hp) | Quote: Originally posted by Laserbeam...er Quote: Originally posted by nwob What rotors and pads did you end up using? When my brake rotors get hot in the canyons, my steering wheel starts to shake a little when braking. I'm trying to figure out what the best options are for our F10. I chose the Powerstop kit. I've had good luck with their products in the past and for the price the value for money can't be beat. They have beaten their rotors to death on the track and they have held up very well. Quote: Originally written by Bmwdoubles_ The car didn't run too bad, 2:14 at Fontana Speedway. I think with the new hardware I have and fueling I can get under 2 minutes. The weak point is the rigidity of the chassis. I upgraded my sway bars, springs and suspension and increased the tire width. I thought for a long time whether I should start installing polyurethane bushings in the vehicle or whether it would be worth the effort. I think it would be beneficial to work on the rear subframe bushings if I haven't gotten around to dropping the subframe yet. This is great news about the Power Stop product. However, I am happy with FCP's lifetime brake pads and rotors. If you're serious about mounts like me, check out this expensive option from VTT: https://vargasturbo.com/product/vtt-...mount-inserts/ And they claim to have some level of NVH in stock
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| lovebug! (55hp) | Quote: Originally written by Bmwdoubles_ This is great news about the Power Stop product. However, I am not satisfied with FCP's lifetime brake pads and rotors. If you're serious about mounts like me, check out this expensive option from VTT: https://vargasturbo.com/product/vtt-...mount-inserts/ And it claims to retain some stock . NVH Nice! I had never seen them before! Based on the design, I imagine it doesn't transfer much for NVH, just helps stabilize the rubber bushing. I like this design and I don't think $150 is a bad price for it. I spent almost $500 on the engine, transmission and dogbone torque arm mounts on my previous HPDE/family car (Audi S3). I was looking for about 85 Duro engine and transmission mounts for the F10 but hadn't found any options yet.
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| jason27 (638hp) | Hi guys, I saw the YouTube videos with no sound, just music etc but with OEM stickers on the rocker panels. Are there any good DYI out there on the forums? For example, where do you start with the curved part, etc...
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| purple88 (197hp) | Hi guys, I saw the YouTube videos with no sound, just music etc but with OEM stickers on the rocker panels. Are there any good DYI out there on the forums? For example, where do you start with the curved part, etc...
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| dr.mba (646hp) | I have a 2016 F10 with the base sound system. I ordered some ETON speakers to upgrade the front speakers as well as the ones on the rear shelf. But I have a few questions... 1. Do I have an amplifier and is it in the trunk/trunk on the left side? 2. Since this is the base system, do I have subwoofers under the seats, if not, do I have any cables? Finally, the center speaker is completely missing and I can't see any wiring. Will there be any? Thanks in advance
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| 4j9r4rnTtP (465hp) | Hello. I have created a guide for F10 with the basic sound system in the DIY section. If you want to read through it, most of your questions will be answered. Check it out here. To briefly answer your questions: 1: Your car does not have its own amplifier. However, if you want to install an amplifier, it is often on the left side of the trunk. 2: You have subwoofers under your front seats. You can upgrade them if you want, but I highly recommend adding an amplifier in this case. 3: I don't think there is any wiring to the front center speaker location. I haven't added one yet as I think the benefits would be minimal compared to installing tweeters in the A-pillars. I wouldn't worry about adding a center speaker, I'd rather add an amplifier. If you have any questions, feel free to ask them here or in my guide.
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| cheer3 (865hp) | Thank you... one more question before I go to your guide. I've seen many videos on YouTube about upgrading the amplifier, which looks easy given the high cost of the wiring harness. But... will I have any cables there at all???
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| rollin20 (589hp) | No problem, I'm happy to help. There are no cables in the left area of the trunk. However, since the battery is also in the trunk, it is easily possible to connect +12V and ground to an amplifier. Running the cables to the underseat subwoofers takes a little more time, but still not too bad. If you would like to look at a simple wiring diagram I created for the wiring needed. You guessed it. Check out my guide
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| Clavurion (980hp) | I have a 2016 F10 with the base sound system. I ordered some ETON speakers to upgrade the front speakers as well as the ones on the rear shelf. But I have a few questions... 1. Do I have an amplifier and is it in the trunk/trunk on the left side? 2. Since this is the basic system, do I have subwoofers under the seats, if not, do I have any cables? Finally, the center speaker is completely missing and I can't see any wiring. Will there be any? Thanks in advance
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| rattlesnake (129hp) | Hello. I have created a guide for F10 with the basic sound system in the DIY section. If you want to read through it, most of your questions will be answered. Check it out here. To briefly answer your questions: 1: Your car does not have a special amplifier. However, if you want to install an amplifier, it is often on the left side of the trunk. 2: You have subwoofers under your front seats. You can upgrade them if you want, but I highly recommend adding an amplifier in this case. 3: I don't think there is any wiring to the front center speaker location. I haven't added one yet as I think the benefits would be minimal compared to installing tweeters in the A-pillars. I wouldn't worry about adding a center speaker, I'd rather add an amplifier. If you have any questions, feel free to ask them here or in my guide.
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| nnnnnnnnnn (489hp) | Thank you... one more question before I go to your guide. I've seen many videos on YouTube about upgrading the amplifier, which looks easy given the high cost of the wiring harness. But... will I have any cables there at all???
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| 05051976 (452hp) | No problem, I'm happy to help. There are no cables in the left area of the trunk. However, since the battery is also in the trunk, it is easily possible to connect +12V and ground to an amplifier. Running the cables to the underseat subwoofers takes a little more time, but still not too bad. If you would like to look at a simple wiring diagram I created for the wiring needed. You guessed it. Check out my guide
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| ryan08 (599hp) | Hey family! I lost my damn mother connecting the DP to the exhaust. Must have fallen off when I took it to the muffler shop. I've tried searching Realoem and every website possible but for the life of me I can't imagine what size and thread this nut is? I would also be very grateful for any help. Before anyone asks, I can't remove the screw because it's pressed into the spacer and the clamp itself is welded to the pipe. I don't want to pay $23 for a new terminal assembly when I can get the nut for less than a dollar
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| automatic (755hp) | Get greatness 13
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| 100588 (590hp) | You can easily achieve this size for bicycle saddle nuts
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| amigas1 (399hp) | Quote: Originally written by Kgare. You can easily determine this size from bicycle saddle nuts. Would that be metric??
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| marines12 (4hp) | Use a thread pitch gauge (cheap yet nice to have) and get a nut from an auto parts store. If possible, get a galvanized or copper-coated one so that it doesn't rust so quickly.
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| 13091985 (454hp) | Hey family! I lost my damn mother connecting the DP to the exhaust. Must have fallen off when I took it to the muffler shop. I've tried searching Realoem and every website possible but for the life of me I can't imagine what size and thread this nut is? I would also be very grateful for any help. Before anyone asks, I can't remove the screw because it's pressed into the spacer and the clamp itself is welded to the pipe. I don't want to pay $23 for a new terminal assembly when I can get the nut for less than a dollar
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| princess66 (17hp) | Get greatness 13
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| margo (119hp) | You can easily achieve this size for bicycle saddle nuts
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| liza123 (180hp) | Quote: Originally written by Kgare. You can easily determine this size from bicycle saddle nuts. Would that be metric??
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| 85208520 (944hp) | Use a thread pitch gauge (cheap yet nice to have) and get a nut from an auto parts store. If possible, get a galvanized or copper-coated one so that it doesn't rust as quickly.
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| ihatelove (876hp) | Hello everyone. I'm new to the forum and new to BMW. I recently sold my 2000 Accord Coupe EX V6 with 120,000 miles (no lie about the mileage) and leased this 2016 535i x-Drive with Cold Weather Package, Driver Assistance Package and Premium Package. I plan to order the M-Sport complete kit with PDC from Kiesmotosports (as OEM is twice as expensive). I've seen pictures of the LCI and pre-LCI models of the car but for the life of me I can't figure out which version I need to have to place the correct order. Some posts say that the LCI models have LED headlights and signals on the outer rearview mirror housing. I don't have an LED headlight, but I have the signals in the reversing housing. My fog lights don't look like the LCI either. Is it even possible to have a 2016 model but pre-LCI? Any help will be greatly appreciated. That being said, I have already changed all my interior lights to pure white LEDs, coded the trunk and rear view mirrors, and added 70% VLT tints (NYC cops are idiots and won't pay $400.00 worth of tint fines). I love this car so far.
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| cobalt1 (269hp) | Its LCI, since the 2014 model, was the beginning of the F10 LCI. Also looks like the lower front bumper of an LCI. 120,000 miles on an Accord sounds like it's just been broken in. Should last well over 300,000 miles.
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| millhouse (919hp) | Kies Motorsports is the way to go!!! I rebuilt the front bumper on my 2011 and MAN did it! It has EVERYTHING you need, the equipment is extremely good, all the materials and parts supplied are of very high quality. I did it alone with some of my friends at their store and it was pretty easy.
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| 290694 (403hp) | Quote: Originally posted by Pierre Louis It is LCI as the 2014 model was the start of F10 LCI. Also looks like the lower front bumper of an LCI. 120,000 miles on an Accord sounds like it's just been broken in. Should last well over 300,000 miles. OK, so LCI. Thanks for the clarification. Yes, there wasn't actually anything wrong with my Accord, but it just got too big because I bought it new as a college gift. I just needed a new look and didn't want to spend money on repairs that would always cost upwards of $500 on average. It's just time for a new project.
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| lightsaber (49hp) | Quote: Originally posted by JDMSteven Kies Motorsports is the way to go!!! I rebuilt the front bumper on my 2011 and MAN did it! It has EVERYTHING you need, the equipment is extremely good, all the materials and parts supplied are of very high quality. I did it alone with some of my friends at their store and it was pretty easy. Quote: Originally posted by Pierre Louis It is LCI as the 2014 model was the start of F10 LCI. Also looks like the lower front bumper of an LCI. 120,000 miles on an Accord sounds like it's just been broken in. Should last well over 300,000 miles. Impressive! Looking at your pictures I'm sure gravel is the way to go. And the price is much more bearable than OEM prices. The M-Sport conversion kit is definitely the next mod. Then m sports exhaust and rims. I have an HK sound system now and it's pretty good. I'm looking at the I-Drive upgrades and possibly the 6WB cluster.
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| 060881 (444hp) | Yes, and don't go for the cheap eBay conversion kits, they look the same in the pictures but the measurements are usually very different. However, I bought the CF-M5 style grilles and the M4 CF mirror caps on eBay and they were pretty good for the price. These cars are extremely quiet from the factory, the M Performance silencers provide a pleasant boost, but are still pleasantly quiet for everyday driving. I haven't touched the sound system or iDrive and the dashboard because they're all pretty expensive components and I personally don't think it would be worth it for me to spend that much money.
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| brandon19 (578hp) | Hello everyone. I'm new to the forum and new to BMW. I recently sold my 2000 Accord Coupe EX V6 with 120,000 miles (no lie about the mileage) and leased this 2016 535i x-Drive with Cold Weather Package, Driver Assistance Package and Premium Package. I plan to order the M-Sport complete kit with PDC from Kiesmotosports (as OEM is twice as expensive). I've seen pictures of the LCI and pre-LCI models of the car but for the life of me I can't figure out which version I need to have to place the correct order. Some posts say that the LCI models have LED headlights and signals on the outer rearview mirror housing. I don't have an LED headlight, but I have the signals in the reversing housing. My fog lights don't look like the LCI either. Is it even possible to have a 2016 model but pre-LCI? Any help will be greatly appreciated. That being said, I have already changed all my interior lights to pure white LEDs, coded the trunk and rear view mirrors, and added 70% VLT tints (NYC cops are idiots and won't pay $400.00 worth of tint fines). I love this car so far.
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| flapjack1 (897hp) | Its LCI, since the 2014 model, was the beginning of the F10 LCI. Also looks like the lower front bumper of an LCI. 120,000 miles on an Accord sounds like it's just been broken in. Should last well over 300,000 miles.
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| allgood (695hp) | Kies Motorsports is the way to go!!! I rebuilt the front bumper on my 2011 and MAN did it! It has EVERYTHING you need, the equipment is extremely good, all the materials and parts supplied are of very high quality. I did it alone with some of my friends at their store and it was pretty easy.
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| llamas1 (468hp) | Quote: Originally posted by Pierre Louis It is LCI as the 2014 model was the start of F10 LCI. Also looks like the lower front bumper of an LCI. 120,000 miles on an Accord sounds like it's just been broken in. Should last well over 300,000 miles. OK, so LCI. Thanks for the clarification. Yes, there wasn't actually anything wrong with my Accord, but it just got too big because I bought it new as a college gift. I just needed a new look and didn't want to spend money on repairs that would always cost upwards of $500 on average. It's just time for a new project.
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| trevor56 (715hp) | Quote: Originally posted by JDMSteven Kies Motorsports is the way to go!!! I rebuilt the front bumper on my 2011 and MAN did it! It has EVERYTHING you need, the equipment is extremely good, all the materials and parts supplied are of very high quality. I did it alone with some of my friends at their store and it was pretty easy. Quote: Originally posted by Pierre Louis It is LCI as the 2014 model was the start of F10 LCI. Also looks like the lower front bumper of an LCI. 120,000 miles on an Accord sounds like it's just been broken in. Should last well over 300,000 miles. Impressive! Looking at your pictures I'm sure gravel is the way to go. And the price is much more bearable than OEM prices. The M-Sport conversion kit is definitely the next mod. Then m sports exhaust and rims. I have an HK sound system now and it's pretty good. I'm looking at the I-Drive upgrades and possibly the 6WB cluster.
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| 101108 (597hp) | Yes, and don't go for the cheap eBay conversion kits, they look the same in the pictures but the measurements are usually very different. However, I bought the CF-M5 style grilles and the M4 CF mirror caps on eBay and they were pretty good for the price. These cars are extremely quiet from the factory, the M Performance silencers provide a pleasant boost, but are still pleasantly quiet for everyday driving. I haven't touched the sound system or iDrive and the dashboard because they're all pretty expensive components and I personally don't think it would be worth it for me to spend that much money.
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| mark10 (830hp) | Hello everyone, I am planning to retrofit my car with an electric rear sunshade. I have a few questions and hope you can help me. I searched online and found out that I need to replace the parcel shelf with the motor. I also need to replace the switch on the driver's side door panel with the shade button. The parasol has 2 wires to the motor. Where do I connect the 2 wires from the motor? To the switch or a module? Do I have to program anything after installation, or does it work without programming? Do I need to install backups? Thanks in advance!
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| 010199 (763hp) | Check Newtis.info for circuit diagrams. That should give you everything you need
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| ds123456 (124hp) | Yes, I looked at Newtis. I figured out the wiring diagram. I need to add 2 pins to the JBE, connector A34*1B, pin 3 and 30. My question is can I use my own JBE or do I have to replace this module too? My JBE number: 61359286941-03.
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| dragon0 (415hp) | I'm pretty sure you should be able to use your JBE, but you may need to code it with ESYS.
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| luchito (788hp) | The strange thing is that I can't find my JBE (61359286941) in the listing here: http://bmwfans.info/parts-catalog/F1...c_3/#9267455_1 So I'm not sure if the JBE comes with Compatible is S415A (rear sun blind.)
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| brooklyn4 (887hp) | Hello!! Were you finally able to finish the Brico? I found an electric curtain and would like to make it. I think my tray would help me, I would just need to cut the hole for the curtain which I don't know if it is pre-marked behind the tray itself. A greeting
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| 600116 (916hp) | I'm definitely interested to see the final product. How much did all the parts cost and where did you pick them up???
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| powermax (101hp) | Was this completed? OP feedback on where you connected?
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| Terry Cope (472hp) | Quote: Originally posted by addy27 Was this completed? Any OP feedback on where you made the connection? No, not finished yet. I'm not sure if the JBE module is compatible with S415A (sun shade, rear). So if the JBE also needs to be replaced, in my opinion it is not worth retrofitting.
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| 2lovely (668hp) | Hello everyone, I am planning to retrofit my car with an electric rear sunshade. I have a few questions and hope you can help me. I searched online and found out that I need to replace the parcel shelf with the motor. I also need to replace the switch on the driver's side door panel with the shade button. The parasol has 2 wires to the motor. Where do I connect the 2 wires from the motor? To the switch or a module? Do I have to program anything after installation, or does it work without programming? Do I need to install backups? Thanks in advance!
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| sw1183 (911hp) | Check Newtis.info for circuit diagrams. That should give you everything you need
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| 05011989 (279hp) | Yes, I looked at Newtis. I figured out the wiring diagram. I need to add 2 pins to the JBE, connector A34*1B, pin 3 and 30. My question is can I use my own JBE or do I have to replace this module too? My JBE number: 61359286941-03.
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| 060287 (937hp) | I'm pretty sure you should be able to use your JBE, but you may need to code it with ESYS.
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| daniel00 (326hp) | The strange thing is that I can't find my JBE (61359286941) in the listing here: http://bmwfans.info/parts-catalog/F1...c_3/#9267455_1 So I'm not sure if the JBE comes with Compatible is S415A (rear sun blind.)
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| walkman1 (549hp) | Hello!! Were you finally able to finish the Brico? I found an electric curtain and would like to make it. I think my tray would help me, I would just need to cut the hole for the curtain which I don't know if it is pre-marked behind the tray itself. A greeting
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| VicN55 (693hp) | I'm definitely interested to see the final product. How much did all the parts cost and where did you pick them up???
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| simbad (436hp) | Was this completed? OP feedback on where you connected?
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| steelhead1 (295hp) | Quote: Originally posted by addy27 Was this completed? Any OP feedback on where you made the connection? No, not finished yet. I'm not sure if the JBE module is compatible with S415A (sun shade, rear). So if the JBE also needs to be replaced, in my opinion it is not worth retrofitting.
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| a8675309 (334hp) | Guys, my shifter is stuck in park again. I can unlock it by moving the gear lever from drive to reverse. I hope it's not a transmission problem, but a broken solenoid valve or kinked cables. This has happened three times in the last 12 months. The first time it was super cold -25°C or -14°F. The second and third times the temperature was about -2°C or 28°F. Not sure if the cold weather could exacerbate this problem? The car and transmission run perfectly. The first time it happened, the BMW mechanic checked everything and couldn't reproduce the problem. What would be my next steps? I'm planning on getting a transmission oil, pan and filter job soon, but I'm not sure if that will help. Thanks Sergio
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| 250493 (437hp) | Quote: Originally written by Sergio Guys, my shifter is stuck in park again. I can unlock it by moving the gear lever from drive to reverse. I hope it's not a transmission problem, but a broken solenoid valve or kinked cables. This has happened three times in the last 12 months. The first time it was super cold -25°C or -14°F. The second and third times the temperature was about -2°C or 28°F. Not sure if the cold weather could exacerbate this problem? The car and transmission run perfectly. The first time it happened, the BMW mechanic checked everything and couldn't reproduce the problem. What would be my next steps? I'm planning on getting a transmission oil, pan and filter job soon, but I'm not sure if that will help. Thanks Sergio, 1 week and no problems, all errors are now fixed. I would like to determine the root cause... I love my 535 and really hope this is a minor issue. Thank you for any feedback or comments on this Sergio
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| mapkrk (164hp) | Quote: Originally posted by Sergio 1 week and no problems, all bugs are now fixed. I would like to determine the root cause... I love my 535 and really hope this is a minor issue. Thank you for your feedback or comments on this, Sergio. Hello, did you ever find out? Looking at a 2011 535x drive he said this happened randomly from time to time
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| 180182 (577hp) | Quote: Originally posted by 335inYEG Hello, did you ever figure this out? Looking at a 2011 535 x drive it says this happens randomly from time to time. Most likely it is the parking solenoid valve. It's fairly easy to replace as it sits in a separate wiring harness separate from the main group of shift solenoid valves. You should be able to replace it without removing the valve body. I just replaced all my solenoids so I removed the valve body (must be by the shift solenoids) but the green parking solenoid seemed easy to replace while the valve body is still in the transmission so anyone who does that should do it Changing oil can be able to do it.
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| loca12 (228hp) | Quote: Originally posted by Sophisticated Redneck Quote: Originally posted by 335inYEG Hello, did you ever figure this out? Looking at a 2011 535 x drive it says this happens randomly from time to time. Most likely it's the parking solenoid, which is fairly easy to replace as it sits on a separate wiring harness separate from the main group of shift solenoids. You should be able to replace it without removing the valve body. I just replaced all my solenoids so I removed the valve body (must be by the shift solenoids) but the green parking solenoid seemed easy to replace while the valve body is still in the transmission so anyone who does that should do it Changing oil can be able to do it. Hey. Where did you get the valve body solenoids from? I haven't seen them for the ZF8. Only seen for zf6. By the way. My 2011 535i Msport xdrive does this from time to time. 3x since I got it. I would set it to N. Then I try to rock or roll the car. Then it would go into research or development.
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| 18021981 (705hp) | Hello, I had a similar problem. My fluid was a little low and the transmission needed a reset. It seems that the electronic parking brake cannot be released unless everything is in order. The Solonoid does not fully apply the brake to release it, so it sends a signal and does not allow you to shift into gear. Changing the fluid and resetting the transmission level so it learns how much fluid there is fixed this problem. A local transmission repair shop diagnosed and repaired the problem. Thank you, Tasmanian
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| 161295 (373hp) | Quote: Originally posted by Trainwreck914 Hey. Where did you get the valve body solenoids from? I haven't seen them for the ZF8. Only seen for zf6. By the way. My 2011 535i Msport xdrive does this from time to time. 3x since I got it. I would set it to N. Then I try to rock or roll the car. Then it would go into research or development. eBay is the only way and how I got mine, they are in such demand that most stores wait months to get them. There are two sets installed there now (shipping from Germany) https://www.ebay.com/itm/ZF-Genuine-...oAAOSwsFheQcM4 Also get the workshop manual, everything you need to know makes working on it easy : https://www.amazon.com/ATSG-ZF8HP45-.../dp/B079X43XG9 And finally, I recommend replacing the small B clutch mechatronic sleeve when you loosen all the solenoid valves and pull on the valve body. Here's a link to it (includes the other sleeves you'll also need to replace if you pull the valve body). I have 150,000 miles on it and after replacing the solenoids and mechatronic sleeves it switches back to how it should (was terrible and almost undriveable before, filter/change, valve body rebuild, resetting adjustments didn't help at all until the solenoid coils/switching sleeves have been replaced). have been replaced) https://www.ebay.com/itm/OEM-ZF-8HP4...-/184093768185
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| w1234567 (235hp) | I know that on the E90 the sealing sleeves tend to become brittle and leak, causing pressure loss. In addition, the switching shaft (metal and plastic) breaks. I did this job. But I didn't change the sleeve back then. But I haven't seen these parts offered for the F10 yet. I thought a place like FCP Euro would offer that. But they only have the outer shell. https://www.fcpeuro.com/products/bmw...zf-24147588896 Adjustment reset. Where to hold the gas pedal helps my situation. My upshifts are smooth. It's because I only downshift to low gears, which isn't the case. And occasionally. I now have 125,000. Just before winter the fluid and pan/filter were changed. Helped a little. About 4 qt came out and went back in. Used ZF fluid and pan. Expensive stuff for $30 qt https://www.fcpeuro.com/products/bmw...-24118612901kt
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| boughten (858hp) | Quote: Originally written by Trainwreck914. So even after changing the solenoid valves there were still switching problems? And the sleeve and O-ring set is what? I know that on the E90 the sealing sleeves tend to become brittle and leak, causing pressure loss. In addition, the switching shaft (metal and plastic) breaks. I did this job. But I didn't change the sleeve back then. But I haven't seen these parts offered for the F10 yet. I thought a place like FCP Euro would offer that. But they only have the outer shell. https://www.fcpeuro.com/products/bmw...zf-24147588896 I did both the solenoids and the sleeve at the same time because there were problems shifting in almost every gear, even those where the B Clutch was not used. Scary issues like simply shifting into m/s caused a massive jerk/pop, the transmission felt like it was tearing itself out of the car, horribly delayed shifts in almost every gear and in all modes, stalling when stopping almost every time , downshifting This causes shocks when spilling drinks, etc. After replacing the solenoids and sleeve (on the ZF8 there are actually only two that can affect shifting, and in mine only the B clutch sleeve was defective) it is as if you would drive a completely different car and it's fun to drive Again, and a 150,000 mile lifespan for solenoids is acceptable to me. Fcp will probably carry it at some point, like they do for the 6hp. The problem is the lack. I tried every store in town and even converted stores across the country to get the solenoids with no luck and had to turn to eBay.
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| wertyui (283hp) | Wow. Yes, my experience is not nearly as bad as that sounds. But it's not as smooth as I know it should be. My wife has an f15 X5 and her zf8 is buttery smooth. What is the B clutch sleeve? Is this sold separately? You could have gotten away with just doing the solenoid and seals??
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| fallinlove (268hp) | Quote: Originally posted by Trainwreck914 Wow. Yes, my experience is not nearly as bad as that sounds. But it's not as smooth as I know it should be. My wife has an f15 X5 and her zf8 is buttery smooth. What is the B clutch sleeve? Is this sold separately? Could you have gotten away with this if you had just done the solenoid and seals? I'll post a picture of it, it's a small rubber boot that sits between the valve body and the gearbox. Since my transmission was having so many shifting issues, it was pretty clear that every solenoid needed to be replaced. If you don't mind the extra work, you can just change the sleeve rather than the solenoids, as you'll get a lot less mileage and won't have all the problems I had. A bonus is that removing the valve body allows an additional 2 liters of oil to drain out, allowing for a much more comprehensive oil change (almost 7 liters versus 4.5 liters for a standard oil change).)
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| 35793579 (16hp) | I was planning on doing another oil change soon. So I will plan ahead. Before I get into it again. The first time it was tedious and time consuming. Also I have x drive. Therefore, the mechatronic sleeve in the transfer case must be removed.
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| bigbad#13 (916hp) | Quote: Originally posted by Trainwreck914 I was planning on doing another oil change soon. So I'll plan ahead. Before I get into it again. The first time it was tedious and time consuming. Also I have x drive. Therefore, the mechatronic sleeve in the transfer case must be removed. Here is a good picture of the B sleeve from the transmission manual. When you pull on the valve body, you will only see the very tip of the sleeve deep inside the transmission. Pull them out carefully using a pointed tool or a small screwdriver. Mine was compressed compared to the new one. One of the eBay auctions I listed above has all the sleeves included (B coupling, pump and Mechatraonics connector). Make sure you get about 7 quarts of oil compared to the normal 5 for a standard oil change, as an additional 2 quarts will be added when you pull out the valve body.
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| WolfRacer (830hp) | Thanks. Now I'll have something to refer to when I'm ready.
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| 16011987 (834hp) | Guys, my shifter is stuck in park again. I can unlock it by moving the gear lever from drive to reverse. I hope it's not a transmission problem, but a broken solenoid valve or kinked cables. This has happened three times in the last 12 months. The first time it was super cold -25°C or -14°F. The second and third times the temperature was about -2°C or 28°F. Not sure if the cold weather could exacerbate this problem? The car and transmission run perfectly. The first time it happened, the BMW mechanic checked everything and couldn't reproduce the problem. What would be my next steps? I'm planning on getting a transmission oil, pan and filter job soon, but I'm not sure if that will help. Thanks Sergio
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| Jskvc (674hp) | Quote: Originally written by Sergio Guys, my shifter is stuck in park again. I can unlock it by moving the gear lever from drive to reverse. I hope it's not a transmission problem, but a broken solenoid valve or kinked cables. This has happened three times in the last 12 months. The first time it was super cold -25°C or -14°F. The second and third times the temperature was about -2°C or 28°F. Not sure if the cold weather could exacerbate this problem? The car and transmission run perfectly. The first time it happened, the BMW mechanic checked everything and couldn't reproduce the problem. What would be my next steps? I'm planning on getting a transmission oil, pan and filter job soon, but I'm not sure if that will help. Thanks Sergio, 1 week and no problems, all errors are now fixed. I would like to determine the root cause... I love my 535 and really hope this is a minor issue. Thank you for any feedback or comments on this Sergio
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