Username: | Message: |
charles21 (357hp) | Hello everyone, this is my first thread with you guys, so be careful with me and help me well. I just bought a BMW F10 530D (07/2010). During the construction of the car there are problems with starting. There are two scenarios: Scenario 1: I got in the car Put my feet on the brakes, press start -> and let the car crank about 7 or 10 times before it starts. Scenario 2: I got in the car, pressed the start button and wait for the instrument cluster to display all the messages, and (like in the old cars I turn on the ignition) I put my feet on the brake and start the car, crank two or three times and start. The car runs normally after the drive. The behavior occurred every time I parked the car when it was cold or hot. I made a video showing this behavior. We ran a diagnostic using ista-d and found no communication with the EKPS module error. We replaced it but no success. We tested the cables for it and from it. Battery changed. I don't know if it is related to the problem, but the car also shows an error related to the key (remote control not present or error. Cannot start engine. See owner's manual). The battery replacement error still occurs every time the doors are opened and closed
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lola10 (324hp) | My e61 530d did this, I changed the battery and a few days later it wouldn't start at all. I guessed electronically. It happened in central London, at a gas station with only two pumps, no one could get past me, taxis lined up down the street, and I ended up buying an F11 on the phone and waiting for the tow truck while telling all sorts of horror stories read. It was the starter. Ј80 and an hour to replace it and it ran like new again.
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zamzam (603hp) | Thank you for your feedback. If the problem is with the starter, it would also take a lot of time in the second scenario. When I turn on the ignition and then start the car, I start immediately! I'll try changing the starter and see !
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rowdy (781hp) | I also replied to yourtube. I don't know why, maybe it has something to do with the stop-start electronics? All I know is that it happened to me too, then it completely failed. I hadn't even thought about the starter at this point. That may not be the case, but for the cheap price of a starter, it's probably worth a try. When you first start, wait for the lights to go out. It still spins faster??
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ilovedaddy (870hp) | I replaced the start button but no luck, it still takes a long time to crank before starting. If I just press the start button (my foot is not on the brake), then I put my foot on the brake and then press start to start it normally
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coolhandshin (473hp) | If necessary, replace glow plugs. Otherwise, the ground wire could be defective or the injectors may be shorted due to moisture.
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gatonegro (212hp) | Hello, I am here to give good news as I checked why the EKPS was not communicating. The mechanic told me it was the JBE module so he used some free pins that were already in the module so EKPS was detected and by chance he found some wet pins which he cleaned so the car is normal now starts. So maybe check the JBE image: https://www.google.com/search?q=bmw+..._AUoAHoECAEQAA
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leandro1 (361hp) | Hello everyone, this is my first thread with you guys, so be careful with me and help me well. I just bought a BMW F10 530D (07/2010). During the construction of the car there are problems with starting. There are two scenarios: Scenario 1: I got in the car Put my feet on the brakes, press start -> and let the car crank about 7 or 10 times before it starts. Scenario 2: I got in the car, pressed the start button and wait for the instrument cluster to display all the messages, and (like in the old cars I turn on the ignition) I put my feet on the brake and start the car, crank two or three times and start. The car runs normally after the drive. The behavior occurred every time I parked the car when it was cold or hot. I made a video showing this behavior. We ran a diagnostic using ista-d and found no communication with the EKPS module error. We replaced it but no success. We tested the cables for it and from it. Battery changed. I don't know if it is related to the problem, but the car also shows an error related to the key (remote control not present or error. Cannot start engine. See owner's manual). The battery replacement error still occurs every time the doors are opened and closed
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jorge23 (638hp) | My e61 530d did this, I changed the battery and a few days later it wouldn't start at all. I guessed electronically. It happened in central London, at a gas station with only two pumps, no one could get past me, taxis lined up down the street, and I ended up buying an F11 on the phone and waiting for the tow truck while telling all sorts of horror stories read. It was the starter. Ј80 and an hour to replace it and it ran like new again.
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salamon (408hp) | Thank you for your feedback. If the problem is with the starter, it would also take a lot of time in the second scenario. When I turn on the ignition and then start the car, I start immediately! I'll try changing the starter and see !
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987654321w (707hp) | I also replied to yourtube. I don't know why, maybe it has something to do with the stop-start electronics? All I know is that it happened to me too, then it completely failed. I hadn't even thought about the starter at this point. That may not be the case, but for the cheap price of a starter, it's probably worth a try. When you first start, wait for the lights to go out. It still spins faster??
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cocodog (223hp) | I replaced the start button but no luck, it still takes a long time to crank before starting. If I just press the start button (my foot is not on the brake), then I put my foot on the brake and then press start to start it normally
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warthog1 (591hp) | If necessary, replace glow plugs. Otherwise, the ground wire could be defective or the injectors may be shorted due to moisture.
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12071207 (972hp) | Hello, I am here to give good news as I checked why the EKPS was not communicating. The mechanic told me it was the JBE module so he used some free pins that were already in the module so EKPS was detected and by chance he found some wet pins which he cleaned so the car is normal now starts. So maybe check the JBE image: https://www.google.com/search?q=bmw+..._AUoAHoECAEQAA
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duffy (275hp) | I have a 15' Msport 535i with the fog lights off. I couldn't find much information about what bulb is used or if it is an LED. I have adaptive lighting which I believe can change the type of fog light used. Can someone help me? Thanks!
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granite (540hp) | Quote: Originally posted by nicklausw I have a 15' Msport 535i with the fog lights off. I couldn't find much information about what bulb is used or if it is an LED. I have adaptive lighting which I believe can change the type of fog light used. Can someone help me? Thanks! Run your VIN through a VIN decoder. I bet you have LED fog lights.
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qwert! (608hp) | Good to www.realoem.com. Enter your VIN and search or drill down.
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blood23 (445hp) | Thanks guys. This is the resource I was looking for. It is an LED fog.
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love1984 (391hp) | I have a 15' Msport 535i with the fog lights off. I couldn't find much information about what bulb is used or if it is an LED. I have adaptive lighting which I believe can change the type of fog light used. Can someone help me? Thanks!
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13021990 (241hp) | Quote: Originally posted by nicklausw I have a 15' Msport 535i with the fog lights off. I couldn't find much information about what bulb it uses or if it's an LED. I have adaptive lighting which I believe can change the type of fog light used. Can someone help me? Thanks! Run your VIN through a VIN decoder. I bet you have LED fog lights.
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220884 (74hp) | Good to www.realoem.com. Enter your VIN and search or drill down.
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jennifer11 (292hp) | Thanks guys. This is the resource I was looking for. It is an LED fog.
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111111prof_root3.sql.txt:, (530hp) | I was wiping down the engine compartment and found this plastic part. Does anyone have any idea where it's going???
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capnjack52 (62hp) | That's a lot to ask, a clip from the engine compartment? Not that some people here can't do that. Maybe you'll have better luck alone. Use www.realoem.com. Enter your VIN and then use the part number in a search. Could even be a linked chart.
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playboy07 (630hp) | lol I have no idea! Did you find it under the car or did you wipe something and it came loose? I would look around where you wiped
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motorrad (733hp) | Two offshore guesses: 1. Hold down/remove the coil pack wire. When you lift the clip, the wiring is removed and you can pull out the coil pack. 2 Old windshield wiper?
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080309 (613hp) | Quote: Originally posted by 550iFreak Two offshore guesses 1. Hold/remove coil pack wire. When you lift the clip, the wiring is removed and you can pull out the coil pack. 2 Old windshield wiper? Annoyingly, it's not a coil pack, but a single coil. A coil pack consists of a number of individual coils combined into a unit. However, this part looks plastic and the coil terminals are metal.
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babyboo13 (666hp) | Thank you everyone. Found it where I swiped. On the right side of the engine compartment. It could actually be a wiper clip. I looked all over the bay and couldn't find anything that was missing. I'll check again tomorrow morning.
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panther13 (646hp) | Quote: Originally posted by ezaircon4jc Pet peeve... It's not a coil pack, it's a single coil. A coil pack consists of a number of individual coils combined into a unit. Lol. Each unit is actually a pack of individual coils. So no reason to get angry.
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kenneth2 (544hp) | Quote: Originally posted by Cvx5832 Lol. Each unit is actually a pack of individual coils. So no reason to get angry. Not angry at all. Coil Pack, Cables Required: Single coil on connector (COP), no cables required. The primary and secondary coil form a complete unit.
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1234aaaa (644hp) | It is part of the wiper adapter. Some are marked with letters for many vehicle types.
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victor14 (401hp) | Quote: Originally written by BurrNinja. It is part of the wiper adapter. Some are marked with letters for many vehicle types. Thanks!
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wertyuio (237hp) | I was wiping down the engine compartment and found this plastic part. Does anyone have any idea where it's going???
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frontier1 (352hp) | That's a lot to ask, a clip from the engine compartment? Not that some people here can't do that. Maybe you'll have better luck alone. Use www.realoem.com. Enter your VIN and then use the part number in a search. Could even be a linked chart.
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ifeoma (706hp) | lol I have no idea! Did you find it under the car or did you wipe it and it came loose? I would look around where you wiped
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deftones1 (280hp) | Two offshore guesses: 1. Hold down/remove the coil pack wire. When you lift the clip, the wiring is removed and you can pull out the coil pack. 2 Old windshield wiper?
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edwin123 (688hp) | Quote: Originally posted by 550iFreak Two offshore guesses 1. Hold/remove coil pack wire. When you lift the clip, the wiring is removed and you can pull out the coil pack. 2 Old windshield wiper? Annoyingly, it's not a coil pack, but a single coil. A coil pack consists of a number of individual coils combined into a unit. However, this part looks plastic and the coil terminals are metal.
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05031987 (267hp) | Thank you everyone. Found it where I swiped. On the right side of the engine compartment. It could actually be a wiper clip. I looked all over the bay and couldn't find anything that was missing. I'll check it again tomorrow.
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water7 (817hp) | Quote: Originally posted by ezaircon4jc Pet peeve... It's not a coil pack, it's a single coil. A coil pack consists of a number of individual coils combined into a unit. Lol. Each unit is actually a pack of individual coils. So no reason to get angry.
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billy4 (505hp) | Quote: Originally posted by Cvx5832 Lol. Each unit is actually a pack of individual coils. So no reason to get angry. Not angry at all. Coil Pack, Cables Required: Single coil on connector (COP), no cables required. The primary and secondary coil form a complete unit.
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030683 (237hp) | It is part of the wiper adapter. Some are marked with letters for many vehicle types.
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99 (271hp) | Quote: Originally written by BurrNinja. It is part of the wiper adapter. Some are marked with letters for many vehicle types. Thanks!
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charm1 (802hp) | Heat Sync has been testing these for a while and the quality just looks great. More than enough for this https://www.heatsyncperformanceeuro....aItem-ik6x5sco I'm just sharing information since I've already placed my order and my current setup. If you have any questions, fire away. And here is the test car....
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carol2 (29hp) | Undoubtedly great customer service too. I also have a set from him, impressive.
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22071995 (368hp) | VERY interested in the improved turbo coolant lines, didn't find them on the website. Honestly, they could sell hundreds of these sets to all of us N63 and S63 owners. They have to advertise this better. Would like to buy them.
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con_conspirat (382hp) | He has a membership page on Facebook. Look up - Euro Tuned Car No63
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cupoftea (34hp) | Quote: Originally written by Sophisticated Redneck. VERY interested in the upgraded turbo coolant lines, didn't find them on the website. Honestly, they could sell hundreds of these sets to all of us N63 and S63 owners. They have to advertise this better. Would like to buy them. Yes. I know right? He's a great guy, knows his stuff, check out his page on fb
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17071997 (790hp) | Heat Sync has been testing these for a while and the quality just looks great. More than enough for this https://www.heatsyncperformanceeuro....aItem-ik6x5sco I'm just sharing information since I've already placed my order and my current setup. If you have any questions, fire away. And here is the test car....
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baru (646hp) | Undoubtedly great customer service too. I also have a set from him, impressive.
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09051987 (575hp) | VERY interested in the improved turbo coolant lines, didn't find them on the website. Honestly, they could sell hundreds of these sets to all of us N63 and S63 owners. They have to advertise this better. Would like to buy them.
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123jkl (933hp) | He has a membership page on Facebook. Look up - Euro Tuned Car No63
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fuckyou24 (381hp) | Quote: Originally written by Sophisticated Redneck. VERY interested in the upgraded turbo coolant lines, didn't find them on the website. Honestly, they could sell hundreds of these sets to all of us N63 and S63 owners. They have to advertise this better. Would like to buy them. Yes. I know right? He's a great guy, knows his stuff, check out his page on fb
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macedonia (40hp) | Hi guys, as the title suggests, I'm noticing a humming or grumbling noise coming from the vents on my blower. Could it perhaps be the engine? I saw a post here somewhere with the same problem. I can't find it so I thought I'd make a new one! I posted a link to my video below!
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13021994 (259hp) | Dirt in the fan basket. Easy solution if you have some time. Pull out the filters in the cabin and make sure to clean everything out there. Second, you will need to access the blower motor from the engine compartment and remove any accumulated debris. I removed the entire unit to clean everything, but I heard some people just used a vacuum cleaner.
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srh420 (744hp) | Quote: Originally posted by socale39 Debris in the fan basket. Easy solution if you have some time. Pull out the filters in the cabin and make sure to clean everything out there. Second, you will need to access the blower motor from the engine compartment and remove any accumulated debris. I removed the entire unit to clean everything, but I heard some people just use a vacuum cleaner. It's difficult to achieve all of this??
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trouducul (553hp) | It's pretty simple, but please disconnect the battery so you don't accidentally touch anything metal with the fuse connection wires. Also lubricate the fan center if it sometimes rusts there. Mine rusted until it wouldn't move and I had to replace it. You can also hot glue a plastic mesh to the blower box to replace the damaged foam.
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brittany15 (342hp) | Hi guys, as the title suggests, I'm noticing a humming or grumbling noise coming from the vents on my blower. Could it perhaps be the engine? I saw a post here somewhere with the same problem. I can't find it so I thought I'd make a new one! I posted a link to my video below!
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karla123 (416hp) | Dirt in the fan basket. Easy solution if you have some time. Pull out the filters in the cabin and make sure to clean everything out there. Second, you will need to access the blower motor from the engine compartment and remove any accumulated debris. I removed the entire unit to clean everything, but I heard some people just used a vacuum cleaner.
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040877 (184hp) | Quote: Originally posted by socale39 Debris in the fan basket. Easy solution if you have some time. Pull out the filters in the cabin and make sure to clean everything out there. Second, you will need to access the blower motor from the engine compartment and remove any accumulated debris. I removed the entire unit to clean everything, but I heard some people just use a vacuum cleaner. It's difficult to achieve all of this??
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giraffa (341hp) | It's pretty simple, but please disconnect the battery so you don't accidentally touch anything metal with the fuse connection wires. Also lubricate the fan center if it sometimes rusts there. Mine rusted until it wouldn't move and I had to replace it. You can also hot glue a plastic mesh to the blower box to replace the damaged foam.
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bitch!! (957hp) | Hello everyone. I bought my first BMW 4 years ago, a 13 328i M Sport. I absolutely loved this car and had a lot of fun upgrading it. I wasn't familiar with BMWs when I bought it and passed up a lot of options (it had halogen headlights and no sunroof, for example). This time I didn't make that mistake. I took my time and waited for something that was just right. Yesterday I picked up my Carbon Black 535i and so far I'm thrilled. It doesn't have all the options, but it has to be pretty close. ZMM: M Sport ZCW: Cold Weather Package ZDA: Driving Assistance ZDB: Driving Assistance Plus ZDH: Driving Dynamics ZLP: Lighting Package ZPP: Premium Package 2VH: Integral Active Steering 323: Soft Close Doors 5DP: Parking Assistant 6F2: BO Sound System 6FH: Rear Seat Entertainment 6NS: Enhanced Bluetooth 6UK: Nightvision There are no upgraded seats, which I'm a little annoyed about, but I absolutely like the way the car drives. My f30 had Bilstein B14 coilovers, which was great, but I was tired of the ride, especially since I lived right next to train tracks. I'll attach my Dinan Sport piggyback until I'm ready to flash it. Since I'm not familiar with this chassis and engine, I have a few questions. I'm sure many of these questions have already been asked (and answered), but given that there are about six model years of content to sift through, if you all would be kind enough to at least point me to a few relevant threads, I would appreciate it. 1: Is the charging line weak and prone to breaking with additional boost like the F30? 2: Do my rims fit? The F30 doesn't like aggressive offset. My front wheels are 19x8.5 ET45 and my rear wheels are 19x9.5 ET38 or 40. Do I need spacers? 3: Can I lower it a bit, maybe 0.5 or so, without changing the ride quality? Will dynamic handling be a complication? 4: My Spotify app in iDrive is not working. In fact, none of the apps like Amazon and Pandora appear. The build sheet says the drive is connected. What do I need to do to enable this? The phone is connected via USB, Spotify screen is open on my phone, etc., same as my f30. 5: Is closing the trunk with the key fob a coding option? 6: Anything else I need to know? Any cool hidden features or maintenance issues? The car has about 43,000 miles on it. Thanks in advance for any help! I'm looking forward to joining this community. Frosted
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bizzle1 (22hp) | Hey, congratulations!!! Would you mind sharing how much you bought it for? And a few pictures would be great!
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27021995 (802hp) | There is an unwritten rule, pictures or it didn't happen. I don't know if you noticed this from your previous BMW, but they don't change every year. They run through generations of body style and typically last several years, with a small update mid-run called LCI (Life Cycle Impulse). Otherwise they are all the same, with no options. Of course the difference in engine size and the “///M” cars. Okay, to go through your questions. 1. Not that I've heard of it. 2. Aggressive is a subjective term. Your standard offset for this car is 33, right and four wheel drive are the same. There is a lot of information here on this topic, it would be better if you research and research according to your taste. Especially given your desire to lower it. 3. The car can be lowered without complications, I have seen up to 1.5. 4. This is a bit more complicated since you don't mention the year. Previous versions of LCI are no longer efficient without some retrofits/upgrades. ConnectedDrive is a subscription-based service, so you'll need to sign up and pay first. This applies to both cases. 5. Yes, if you have the power trunk option. 6. Yes, but look around again. Check out the Coding subforum. I know there's a list floating around somewhere. Again, note that it depends on your car's options, such as: B. the trunk issue. You cannot code it to close with the trailer if it is not motorized. Welcome and have fun! Again: pictures, pictures, pictures!
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555555555555 (14hp) | Sorry, I just noticed that your title contains the year. That would make yours an LCI, everything still applies except the part about retrofits/upgrades. You still need to purchase ConnectedDrive.
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johnny6 (418hp) | I would get the Bimmercode app if you don't already have it. You can code the trunk to close with the key fob and use many other options to make the car your own
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Metallica1 (785hp) | Thank you everyone for the contribution! When I leave work it is dark. I'll take some decent pictures this weekend. I'll definitely take a look at the programming apps too, there are a lot of optimizations I'd like to make
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ar (327hp) | Congratulations on your new wheels. I hope you enjoy many years of driving pleasure
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okram (404hp) | From another 16 South FL (I'm in Fort Lauderdale) Carbon Black Metallic 535 M-Sport, welcome! I've had mine for a few months now and absolutely love it.
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mercedes123 (975hp) | In addition to everything else mentioned, for #4 I think you'll need an encoder that enables Enhanced Bluetooth. You might want to invest in a Windows laptop and an OBD2 cable and look for a programmer to do an online consultation. Also, hire an Indy mechanic to perform a pre-purchase inspection so you can see what maintenance is due or pending (think belts, brakes, sensors, wipers, etc. etc.). BMW CPO doesn't do any of that and sells you the car with all sorts of junk ready for replacement, so you're on your own from here on out! I'm jealous of the DHP package in your car. I miss the magnetic dampers and slightly more forgiving suspension of my 2013 535. The 2016 is much stiffer and therefore has some rattles. In fact, both behaved similarly well on the same high-speed corners that I take every day.
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holly5 (904hp) | Wow, the car looks packed with all the unusually expensive options (DHP, IAS...), I can't believe it didn't have the comfort seats (which are great by the way). Are you sure it doesn't have the S456A comfort seats? congratulations!
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bartbart (167hp) |
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sammyboy1 (441hp) | Going to 20% ceramic tints on Tuesday. Next comes black grilles. If I have the Dinan Sport piggyback there, should my first real purchase be a Dinan rear axle exhaust or get it dyno tuned at my buddy's shop? They are responsible for some of the fastest Mclarens in the country and definitely know their business. Are you also thinking about powder coating the 351M? Not black, but more of a gunmetal finish to keep a bit of contrast with the car.
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dinodino (891hp) | I'm trying to remember whether the Dinan parameters can be changed/optimized or not? I suggest using double slats for the grills. The Dinan exhaust is a pretty mild exhaust. What kind of tone are you looking for???
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RonnieRenaldi (124hp) | You are literally my twin + a few improvements
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414200 (437hp) | Quote: Originally posted by lsturbointeg I'm trying to remember if the Dinan parameters can be changed/optimized or not? I suggest using double slats for the grills. The Dinan exhaust is a pretty mild exhaust. What kind of tone are you looking for? A mild tone is what I'm looking for. I removed the muffler on my F30 and while it actually sounded great, nice and deep and not cheap at all, I want this car to be more refined. I still want a slightly exhausted sound, but more reserved. I also asked about timing and order. I intend to do both upgrades. My question is, given that I have the Dinan Sport piggyback there and it makes a small difference (although not as much as I expected, even in race mode), does it make more sense to tune the dyno with that now? stock exhaust or leave the piggyback there and buy the Dinan mufflers and tune the dyno later when I'm willing to spend more money on the car? I still have about 10 months of CPO warranty, so I'm thinking about waiting to set the performance test until that expires. I would appreciate any input. Also, I will NEVER use the rear seat entertainment. Is there a market for the screens? I haven't seen anything in the classifieds yet. I have some more specific questions, but I'll do some research first and direct them to the appropriate sections if necessary. Thank you for the answers and your interest!
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1fuckoff (860hp) | Quote: Originally written by ramman434 From another South FL in '16 (I'm in Fort Lauderdale) Carbon Black Metallic 535 M-Sport, welcome! I've had mine for a few months now and absolutely love it. Sweet! I used to live in Miami but just moved to Delray and my office is in Boca. However, my territory is Broward, so I'll be in your area a few times a month. What upgrades have you made? Any opportunity to check something out in person before I pull the trigger myself would be great.
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100482 (569hp) | Unfortunately no upgrades yet. My wife and I are looking for a home in the Pompano area. I work in the commercial sector and can be found all over the area, usually east of 95
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Charlotte1 (453hp) | The LCI F10 535i S got the MPPK exhaust option??
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snowshoe (480hp) | Quote: Originally posted by e38740imd Did the LCI F10 535i S get the MPPK exhaust option? Ex works? Not that I know of.
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270380 (136hp) | Quote: Originally posted by ezaircon4jc From the factory? Not that I know of. Oh wow. The MPPK exhaust would probably be what the OP is looking for sound-wise. or the sports exhaust. like the 3 series. The sports exhaust on my F13 sounds great! The exhaust does not need to be replaced. I also wasn't sure if the LCI F10 has a sports exhaust
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hisham (309hp) | Quote: Originally posted by e38740imd... I also wasn't sure if the LCI F10 has a sports exhaust, mine doesn't...
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Nicky92 (931hp) | Great car, congratulations!
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killkill1 (438hp) | Hello everyone. I bought my first BMW 4 years ago, a 13 328i M Sport. I absolutely loved this car and had a lot of fun upgrading it. I wasn't familiar with BMWs when I bought it and passed up a lot of options (it had halogen headlights and no sunroof, for example). This time I didn't make that mistake. I took my time and waited for something that was just right. Yesterday I picked up my Carbon Black 535i and so far I'm thrilled. It doesn't have all the options, but it has to be pretty close. ZMM: M Sport ZCW: Cold Weather Package ZDA: Driving Assistance ZDB: Driving Assistance Plus ZDH: Driving Dynamics ZLP: Lighting Package ZPP: Premium Package 2VH: Integral Active Steering 323: Soft Close Doors 5DP: Parking Assistant 6F2: BO Sound System 6FH: Rear Seat Entertainment 6NS: Enhanced Bluetooth 6UK: Nightvision There are no upgraded seats, which I'm a bit annoyed about, but I love the way the car drives. My f30 had Bilstein B14 coilovers, which was great, but I was tired of the ride, especially since I lived right next to train tracks. I'll attach my Dinan Sport piggyback until I'm ready to flash it. Since I'm not familiar with this chassis and engine, I have a few questions. I'm sure many of these questions have already been asked (and answered), but given that there are about six model years of content to sift through, if you all would be kind enough to at least point me to a few relevant threads, I would appreciate it. 1: Is the charging line weak and prone to breaking with additional boost like the F30? 2: Do my rims fit? The F30 doesn't like aggressive offset. My front wheels are 19x8.5 ET45 and my rear wheels are 19x9.5 ET38 or 40. Do I need spacers? 3: Can I lower it a bit, maybe 0.5 or so, without changing the ride quality? Will dynamic handling be a complication? 4: My Spotify app in iDrive is not working. In fact, none of the apps like Amazon and Pandora appear. The build sheet says the drive is connected. What do I need to do to enable this? The phone is connected via USB, Spotify screen is open on my phone, etc., same as my f30. 5: Is closing the trunk with the key fob a coding option? 6: Anything else I need to know? Any cool hidden features or maintenance issues? The car has about 43,000 miles on it. Thanks in advance for any help! I'm looking forward to joining this community. Frosted
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200776 (813hp) | Hey, congratulations!!! Would you mind sharing how much you bought it for? And a few pictures would be great!
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-=Hot|Ice=- (647hp) | There is an unwritten rule, pictures or it didn't happen. I don't know if you noticed this from your previous BMW, but they don't change every year. They run through generations of body style and typically last several years, with a small update mid-run called LCI (Life Cycle Impulse). Otherwise they are all the same, with no options. Of course the difference in engine size and the “///M” cars. Okay, to go through your questions. 1. Not that I've heard of it. 2. Aggressive is a subjective term. Your standard offset for this car is 33, right and four wheel drive are the same. There is a lot of information here on this topic, it would be better if you research and research according to your taste. Especially given your desire to lower it. 3. The car can be lowered without complications, I have seen up to 1.5. 4. This is a bit more complicated since you don't mention the year. Previous versions of LCI are no longer efficient without some retrofits/upgrades. ConnectedDrive is a subscription-based service, so you'll need to sign up and pay first. This applies to both cases. 5. Yes, if you have the power trunk option. 6. Yes, but look around again. Check out the Coding subforum. I know there's a list floating around somewhere. Again, note that it depends on your car's options, such as: B. the trunk issue. You cannot code it to close with the trailer if it is not motorized. Welcome and have fun! Again: pictures, pictures, pictures!
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florecita (501hp) | Sorry, I just noticed that your title contains the year. That would make yours an LCI, everything still applies except the part about retrofits/upgrades. You still need to purchase ConnectedDrive.
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Disp.93 (526hp) | I would get the Bimmercode app if you don't already have it. You can code the trunk to close with the key fob and use many other options to make the car your own
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SpotM5 (142hp) | Thank you everyone for the contribution! When I leave work it is dark. I'll take some decent pictures this weekend. I'll definitely take a look at the programming apps too, there are a lot of optimizations I'd like to make
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cameron10 (9hp) | Congratulations on your new wheels. I hope you enjoy many years of driving pleasure
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140182 (657hp) | From another 16 South FL (I'm in Fort Lauderdale) Carbon Black Metallic 535 M-Sport, welcome! I've had mine for a few months now and absolutely love it.
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Sakura (7hp) | In addition to everything else mentioned, for #4 I think you'll need an encoder that enables Enhanced Bluetooth. You might want to invest in a Windows laptop and an OBD2 cable and look for a programmer to do an online consultation. Also, hire an Indy mechanic to perform a pre-purchase inspection so you can see what maintenance is due or pending (think belts, brakes, sensors, wipers, etc. etc.). BMW CPO doesn't do any of that and sells you the car with all sorts of junk ready for replacement, so you're on your own from here on out! I'm jealous of the DHP package in your car. I miss the magnetic dampers and slightly more forgiving suspension of my 2013 535. The 2016 is much stiffer and therefore has some rattles. In fact, both behaved similarly well on the same high-speed corners that I take every day.
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07011981 (703hp) | Wow, the car looks packed with all the unusually expensive options (DHP, IAS...), I can't believe it didn't have the comfort seats (which are great by the way). Are you sure it doesn't have the S456A comfort seats? congratulations!
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dan12345 (463hp) |
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mariafernanda (804hp) | Going to 20% ceramic tints on Tuesday. Next comes black grilles. If I have the Dinan Sport piggyback there, should my first real purchase be a Dinan rear axle exhaust or get it dyno tuned at my buddy's shop? They are responsible for some of the fastest Mclarens in the country and definitely know their business. Are you also thinking about powder coating the 351M? Not black, but more of a gunmetal finish to keep a bit of contrast with the car.
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lastfm1 (446hp) | I'm trying to remember whether the Dinan parameters can be changed/optimized or not? I suggest using double slats for the grills. The Dinan exhaust is a pretty mild exhaust. What kind of tone are you looking for???
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[email protected] (19hp) | You are literally my twin + a few improvements
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20071995 (151hp) | Quote: Originally posted by lsturbointeg I'm trying to remember if the Dinan parameters can be changed/optimized or not? I suggest using double slats for the grills. The Dinan exhaust is a pretty mild exhaust. What kind of tone are you looking for? A mild tone is what I'm looking for. I removed the muffler on my F30 and while it actually sounded great, nice and deep and not cheap at all, I want this car to be more refined. I still want a slightly exhausted sound, but more reserved. I also asked about timing and order. I intend to do both upgrades. My question is, given that I have the Dinan Sport piggyback there and it makes a small difference (although not as much as I expected, even in race mode), does it make more sense to tune the dyno with that now? stock exhaust or leave the piggyback there and buy the Dinan mufflers and tune the dyno later when I'm willing to spend more money on the car? I still have about 10 months of CPO warranty, so I'm thinking about waiting to set the performance test until that expires. I would appreciate any input. Also, I will NEVER use the rear seat entertainment. Is there a market for the screens? I haven't seen anything in the classifieds yet. I have some more specific questions, but I'll do some research first and direct them to the appropriate sections if necessary. Thank you for the answers and your interest!
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dallas7 (590hp) | Quote: Originally written by ramman434 From another South FL in '16 (I'm in Fort Lauderdale) Carbon Black Metallic 535 M-Sport, welcome! I've had mine for a few months now and absolutely love it. Sweet! I used to live in Miami but just moved to Delray and my office is in Boca. However, my territory is Broward, so I'll be in your area a few times a month. What upgrades have you made? Any opportunity to check something out in person before I pull the trigger myself would be great.
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softball27 (458hp) | Unfortunately no upgrades yet. My wife and I are looking for a home in the Pompano area. I work in the commercial sector and can be found all over the area, usually east of 95
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kristen3 (824hp) | The LCI F10 535i S got the MPPK exhaust option??
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buddy6 (799hp) | Quote: Originally posted by e38740imd Did the LCI F10 535i S get the MPPK exhaust option? Ex works? Not that I know of.
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harley21 (197hp) | Quote: Originally posted by ezaircon4jc From the factory? Not that I know of. Oh wow. The MPPK exhaust would probably be what the OP is looking for sound-wise. or the sports exhaust. like the 3 series. The sports exhaust on my F13 sounds great! The exhaust does not need to be replaced. I also wasn't sure if the LCI F10 has a sports exhaust
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23121983 (155hp) | Quote: Originally posted by e38740imd... I also wasn't sure if the LCI F10 has a sports exhaust, mine doesn't...
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Shark5ix (603hp) | Great car, congratulations!
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izabela (221hp) | I searched a bit and didn't find much information here about options, but does anyone know what we can use to replace a broken ashtray? I don't smoke so ideally I would remove it and replace it with something else. Are there also ways to enlarge the cup holder or simply replace it with something more useful??
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170190 (173hp) | Any ideas?
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elizaveta (593hp) | See if that works. It is a tray to replace the ashtray. I use it to hold Altoids. The part number for this tray is 51169213657. I used the part number for my 2015 535, it looks like 2011 will work too: https://www.fcpeuro.com/products?keywords=51169213657 Otherwise look up realoem.com for your VIN and search for the part number.
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31031987 (184hp) | Quote: Originally posted by Gjohnson7 I did a bit of searching and didn't find much information on options here, but does anyone know what we can use to replace a broken ashtray? I don't smoke so ideally I would remove it and replace it with something else. Also, are there ways to enlarge the cup holder or simply replace it with something more useful? For the cup holder, no. To replace the original part, you will need to have something custom made. Quote: Originally written by VAB5. See if that works. It is a tray to replace the ashtray. I use it to hold Altoids. The part number for this tray is 51169213657. I used the part number for my 2015 535, it looks like 2011 will work too: https://www.fcpeuro.com/products?keywords=51169213657 Otherwise look up realoem.com for your VIN and search for the part number. The. I replaced the insert with this part and it works quite well for small change. Unless you overfill it
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fireworks1 (865hp) | I searched a bit and didn't find much information here about options, but does anyone know what we can use to replace a broken ashtray? I don't smoke so ideally I would remove it and replace it with something else. Are there also ways to enlarge the cup holder or simply replace it with something more useful??
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141996 (494hp) | Any ideas?
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candy18 (572hp) | See if that works. It is a tray to replace the ashtray. I use it to hold Altoids. The part number for this tray is 51169213657. I used the part number for my 2015 535, it looks like 2011 will work too: https://www.fcpeuro.com/products?keywords=51169213657 Otherwise look up realoem.com for your VIN and search for the part number.
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luzmaria (731hp) | Quote: Originally posted by Gjohnson7 I searched a bit and didn't find much information here on options, but does anyone know what we can use to replace a broken ashtray? I don't smoke so ideally I would remove it and replace it with something else. Also, are there ways to enlarge the cup holder or simply replace it with something more useful? For the cup holder, no. To replace the original part, you will need to have something custom made. Quote: Originally written by VAB5. See if that works. It is a tray to replace the ashtray. I use it to hold Altoids. The part number for this tray is 51169213657. I used the part number for my 2015 535, it looks like 2011 will work too: https://www.fcpeuro.com/products?keywords=51169213657 Otherwise look up realoem.com for your VIN and search for the part number. The. I replaced the insert with this part and it works quite well for small change. Unless you overfill it
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290988 (718hp) | I have a 2015 BMW F10 520i, it previously didn't have BMW lane change warning and night vision. And now I want to install it. Could someone please help me??
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102090 (721hp) | How much money do you have to invest???
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nexus6 (251hp) | Quote: Originally posted by dungnguyen I have a 2015 BMW F10 520i, it didn't have BMW lane change warning and night vision before. And now I want to install it. Could someone please help me? Some night vision information:https://www.newtis.info/tisv2/a/en/f...era/1VnXOyUcSi https://www.newtis.info/tisv2/a/en/f...onics/ 9JeHW2ka https ://www.newtis.info/tisv2/a/en/f...mote-key/q-A80 Some information about the lane change warning: https://www.newtis.info/tisv2/a/en/ f.. .mote-key/q-A80 https://www.newtis.info/tisv2/a/en/f...ing/1VnbyyTscb https://www.newtis.info/tisv2/a/en/ f.. .rning/Aetb0Zzw
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Consigliere (9hp) | Quote: Originally written by OnlyGerman How much money do you have to spend on this? about 1000 my friends
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220776 (680hp) | Quote: Originally posted by Qsilver7 Some night vision information:https://www.newtis.info/tisv2/a/en/f...era/1VnXOyUcSi https://www.newtis.info/tisv2/a/en/ f. ..onics/9JeHW2ka https://www.newtis.info/tisv2/a/en/f...mote-key/q-A80 Some information about the lane change warning: https://www.newtis.info/tisv2/a /en/f...mote-key/q-A80 https://www.newtis.info/tisv2/a/en/f...ing/1VnbyyTscb https://www.newtis.info/tisv2/a /en/f...rning/Aetb0Zzw https://www.newtis.info/tisv2/a/en/f10-520i-lim/wiring-Functional-info/driver-assistance/lane-change-warning /control- unit-slave/sww-lane-change-warning-supply/fQltGTd?utm_source=zalo&utm_medium=zalo&utm_campai gn=zalo&zarsrc=30 https://www.newtis.info/tisv2/a/en/f10-520i-lim_201504 /wiring- function-info/driver-assistance/lane-change-warning/driver-assist-systems-control-panel/f7SzDtk I used these two instructions but it didn't work (
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jeffrey12 (764hp) | You need the hardware. Then installed, then programmed. The Newtis links are intended to give an impression of what it is about. I guess 1000 won't be close enough. I would like to point out that some of these aftermarket modifications are not worth it.
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240278 (387hp) | Quote: Originally posted by wcr3d You need the hardware. Then installed, then programmed. The Newtis links are intended to give an impression of what it is about. I guess 1000 won't be close enough. I would like to point out that some of these aftermarket modifications are not worth it. The effort and headache of getting everything to work isn't worth it. Set aside the extra money for maintenance or repairs
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020186 (447hp) | I have a 2015 BMW F10 520i, it previously didn't have BMW lane change warning and night vision. And now I want to install it. Could someone please help me??
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