| Username: | Message: |
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| 04041992 (121hp) | I like this actor, he must be chosen for the next 007 films
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| 197904 (249hp) | Not Clive Owen's first BMW adventure/commercial. This one has an E39 M5 and Madonna. https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=V_wcmabjVcI
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| 123654a (434hp) | Hi Al, I'm new here and hoping for some insight. I have an F10 535d that is almost 5 years old. Among many other things, it is equipped with active four-wheel steering. A few months ago the steering started giving me an error message when I was maneuvering at a standstill or very slow emergency braking, parking and the like. This was reset by turning the vehicle off and on again. It became more and more frequent until it remained constant. Driving didn't seem to be affected, apart from active steering and all-wheel steering being disabled. At the current maintenance appointment I asked the dealer to take a look at it. It took over a week. They told me that both the main battery and the auxiliary battery need to be replaced. I can understand that batteries about 5 years old will die, so I can't argue with them. I had no trouble finding a local supplier of equivalent or higher quality batteries to keep the dealer honest with their prices. They originally quoted me $970 for the main battery and $231 for the secondary battery. Most suppliers specializing in batteries, including Bosch, Varta, Exide, Yuasa and similar, cost between $449 and $527. However, that second battery seems a bit of a mystery, so I'm a bit at the mercy of the dealer. Does anyone have the specs and dimensions? Is this also the most likely cause of this type of error? I found a somewhat similar thread about a 550i, but nothing else. I'm pretty mad at them for putting up with this for over a week. Apparently four-wheel active steering isn't a popular option here in NSW, so I really feel like I'm paying for the dealer's mechanics to learn about the system and how to find faults while they're running. Any advice or information from those in the know would be appreciated.
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| 24101979 (879hp) | The additional battery is an AGM 200CCA/12Ah specification IIRC. It is about the same size as a normal motorcycle battery.
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| sing12 (107hp) | Yes, 12Ah BMW does not list sizing details. Any good battery place should be able to check the size against the original. Remember to register the new batteries in the vehicle's control unit
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| candice1 (65hp) | Hi Al, I'm new here and hoping for some insight. I have an F10 535d that is almost 5 years old. Among many other things, it is equipped with active four-wheel steering. A few months ago the steering started giving me an error message when I was maneuvering at a standstill or very slow emergency braking, parking and the like. This was reset by turning the vehicle off and on again. It became more and more frequent until it remained constant. Driving didn't seem to be affected, apart from active steering and all-wheel steering being disabled. At the current maintenance appointment I asked the dealer to take a look at it. It took over a week. They told me that both the main battery and the auxiliary battery need to be replaced. I can understand batteries about 5 years old giving up, so I don't argue with them. I had no trouble finding a local supplier of equivalent or higher quality batteries to keep the dealer honest with their prices. They originally quoted me $970 for the main battery and $231 for the secondary battery. Most suppliers specializing in batteries, including Bosch, Varta, Exide, Yuasa and similar, cost between $449 and $527. However, that second battery seems a bit of a mystery, so I'm a bit at the mercy of the dealer. Does anyone have the specs and dimensions? Is this also the most likely cause of this type of error? I found a somewhat similar thread about a 550i, but nothing else. I'm pretty mad at them for putting up with this for over a week. Apparently four-wheel active steering isn't a popular option here in NSW, so I really feel like I'm paying for the dealer's mechanics to learn about the system and how to find faults while they're running. Any advice or information from those in the know would be appreciated.
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| q2w3e4r5t6 (536hp) | The additional battery is an AGM 200CCA/12Ah specification IIRC. It is about the same size as a normal motorcycle battery.
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| Sal Collaziano (392hp) | Yes, 12Ah BMW does not list sizing details. Any good battery place should be able to check the size against the original. Remember to register the new batteries in the vehicle's control unit
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| coopers (211hp) | Hello, I have a month old F10 550xi and someone has already scratched it. I chose the Thinkware x500 dashcam as recommended by opasha. Attached is a picture of the fuse box behind the glove compartment. I've searched and searched and haven't been able to get a clear idea of which fuse is permanently on at 12V (stays on for recording while the car is parked and locked) and which fuse is on. I would be very grateful for recommendations. I'm also including what I found online. Thanks
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| 240495 (589hp) | If you want to detect door noises/scratches, you should get a camera with motion detection. But then you still wouldn't be able to identify her unless her car is still there. Usually people knock on your car when they drive away and there is a chance that this camera won't capture your license plate. The camera you are considering purchasing is intended for driving or capturing the valet/mechanic's joy while driving your car. What you need is a camera with motion detection and a battery life of at least 3 hours. The 550xi has enough battery issues as it is, I'm not sure you want to connect a permanent power consumer. Of course, the camera doesn't use much battery, but these batteries are terribly inefficient and drain slowly. If you compare the battery capacity to what an indoor lamp needs to work all night, it is probably only a tiny amount. However, once you forget to turn it off overnight, the battery will be completely drained by morning. This issue occurs with all high discharge/charge batteries except lithium-ion batteries. This is why lithium-ion batteries are used in slow-drain devices. Since you live in Chicago, depending on which part, you may not want to have this in your car. Someone will just break your window and steal it.
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| riverdale (258hp) | I'm sorry to hear that your ride is already scarred. But as for the camera, I don't think it will be of any use in stopping inconsiderate people from damaging your beautiful car. It's best to park where you can minimize the risk of damage.
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| 23wesdxc (160hp) | I look forward to any feedback. I researched and purchased the dash cam. I may agree or disagree with some or all of the thoughts expressed here, but the point of the post was to find a constant power source in the fuse box behind the glove box rather than running the wiring all the way to the battery in the trunk. If anyone can help me with this, thank you. The only possible answer I've found so far that might help is an OBD2 backup.
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| ilovetony1 (449hp) | Check out http://www.blackboxmycar.com/pages/h...ash-cam-on-bmw. You used a 5 to install Blackvue
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| jesse23 (331hp) | For constant performance, use fuse 121 for the radiator fan. I used this for myself. And better use the fuse on the back. It is more accessible. There is also a metal nut that you can unscrew and attach the ground wire to. This is located on the same rear fuse box. You will need to extend your cables as they need to run to the back of the car. Simply cut the existing cables, attach them and route them through the door rubber and side pillar panels. I use front and back cameras.
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| peanut4 (62hp) | Quote: Originally written by Josparky. Use fuse 121 for the radiator fan to ensure constant power. I used this for myself. And better use the fuse on the back. It is more accessible. There is also a metal nut that you can unscrew and attach the ground wire to. This is located on the same rear fuse box. You will need to extend your cables as they need to run to the back of the car. Simply cut the existing cables, attach them and route them through the door rubber and side pillar panels. I use front and back cameras. Thank you. I would still prefer to connect the dashcam to the front fuse box. The only option I see currently is to sit in the locked car for 20 minutes while it goes into sleep mode and then use the fuse tester to see which one has power. On the other hand, looking at the fuse diagram, fuse 121 is in the same category as 43 and 46, so I think this might work.
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| ida123 (364hp) | http://f10.5post.com/forums/showthread.php?t=1042815&highlight=Stay+on+after+s hut+off
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| 151185 (257hp) | You have to be a lot more flexible than me, I can't even get to half the fuses in my front fuse box (2015 F10), I don't understand why BMW would put a fuse box where access is so difficult.
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| speedometer (243hp) | I have Thinkware x500 with rear camera option installed and everything works great. I used fuse #11 for continuous 12V in parking mode. It took me a while to figure out which fuse still gets power when the car is in sleep mode. I can definitely recommend x500. Camera and software are great and very easy to use. Here are the correct pictures of the fuse boxes and also a description of the meaning of each symbol, courtesy of the m5 forum. Grandpasha, if you ever come back, thank you for your recommendation on camera selection. Thanks also to Josparky for the advice.
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| santacruz1 (323hp) | Fuse 3, OBD, I use it for both front and rear cameras.
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| mike23 (825hp) | Quote: Originally written by hungdynasty Fuse 3, OBD, I use it for both front and rear cameras. Do you ever get this warning after leaving the car overnight??
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| 10081985 (621hp) | A few times. My experience is that I sometimes get this message if I leave the cameras on for more than five hours.
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| kimbum1 (548hp) | Stupid questions. What method did you use to tap into the fuse box? Did you use a fuse tap or tap the wire directly???
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| zephyr (123hp) | Quote: Originally posted by Carbonm3ny Stupid questions. What method did you use to tap into the fuse box? Did you use a fuse tap or tap the wire directly? Search for this on Amazon: Pico 0956PT 10 Amp ATM Mini Blade Fuse Add-A-Circuit Fuse Holder http://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B00...BY9ANQ306D1GX4 This may be silly, but be sure to install it Both the original fuse that you pull out of the fuse box and the additional fuse, otherwise the system will not work. I didn't do this originally and the whole thing didn't work. I used a new fuse that matches the current rating of the original fuse.
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| 200596 (754hp) | Quote: Originally posted by ellisina4. Search for this on Amazon: Pico 0956PT 10 Amp ATM Mini Blade Fuse Add-A-Circuit Fuse Holder http://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B00...BY9ANQ306D1GX4 This could be silly, but be careful. Install both the original fuse that you pull out of the fuse box and the additional fuse, otherwise the system will not work. I didn't do this originally and the whole thing didn't work. I used a new fuse that matches the current rating of the original fuse. I used it too. Just make sure you insert the plug so that the current flows through the second fuse to the cable. Otherwise, the current will flow directly to the cable without fuse protection, which can be dangerous.
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| jaybird124 (23hp) | In case anyone is interested, I got tired of hearing the "battery discharged" warning when the battery was dead because the dash cam was connected to the ACC and permanent power fuses in the fuse box behind the glove box. I purchased the Cellink B battery from Blackboxmycar for $180 with cigarette lighter plug. I found a very good location for it. There is an area at the top of the glove box that perfectly houses the Cellink B battery and there is also a cigarette lighter plug to the right of the glove box (I have a 2015 F10 550i). In addition, the battery does not take up space in the glove compartment. The installation took 20 minutes and I only connected my Thinkware x500 dash cam to the battery without also connecting the battery to the accessory fuse. In this way, BMW Service cannot even comment on additional aftermarket products installed in the vehicle. The battery is only charged via the cigarette lighter while driving.
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| smelly1 (785hp) | Quote: Originally posted by ellisina4 In case anyone is interested: I'm tired of getting the "battery discharges while stationary" warning because the dash cam was connected to the ACC and permanent power fuses in the fuse box behind the glove box. I purchased the Cellink B battery from Blackboxmycar for $180 with cigarette lighter plug. I found a very good location for it. There is an area at the top of the glove box that perfectly houses the Cellink B battery and there is also a cigarette lighter plug to the right of the glove box (I have a 2015 F10 550i). In addition, the battery does not take up space in the glove compartment. The installation took 20 minutes and I only connected my Thinkware x500 dash cam to the battery without also connecting the battery to the accessory fuse. In this way, BMW Service cannot even comment on additional aftermarket products installed in the vehicle. The battery is only charged via the cigarette lighter while driving. How do you like Thinkware? I'm currently looking for a dashcam too
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| bowwow13 (877hp) | Quote: Originally written by mragarg How do you like Thinkware? I'm currently looking for a dash cam and can definitely recommend it. Great camera all around: quality of videos, customization of options, easy to use software, etc. I looked around at other brands and found Thinkware to be a good choice. Don't waste your money on the F series camera. I bought my x500 from Amazon.
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| njdevils (400hp) | I know this is an older post, but I was also looking for help with DIY hardwired dash cam installation. I had previously done it myself on my F30, but wanted to see if there were any tips here for the F10. Anyway, I did some more searching and found a video about DIY installation of a 2 channel camera specifically on an F10! I actually found a video that the same people made installing an F30 and an F80 that previously helped me install on my F30. I was pretty excited to find a video of the installation specifically on the F10! No guesswork about which Fueses to tap! Installing the camera took about 50 minutes! Hopefully this helps others looking for information on hardwiring a dash cam! Notes from Coles: BATT+ (yellow) - #177 (fan) - large 20A fuse ACC+ (red) - #155 (trunk) - small 15A fuse
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| pancho1 (992hp) | I installed my Blackvue 650 using the video above and it's spot on. It took me less than an hour. But be careful, when you start the car for the first time in the morning, you will receive a message that the battery is discharged. I'm not too worried about the message since I also have Power Magic Pro installed. There is another version of Power Magic Pro for BMWs to ensure the dead battery message doesn't appear, and I haven't gotten around to installing that yet.
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| thought1 (297hp) | Quote: Originally posted by TTG. I installed my Blackvue 650 using the video above and it's spot on. It took me less than an hour. But be careful, when you start the car for the first time in the morning, you will receive a message that the battery is discharged. I'm not too worried about the message since I also have Power Magic Pro installed. There is another version of Power Magic Pro for BMWs to ensure the dead battery message doesn't appear, and I haven't gotten around to installing that yet. I actually kept getting the same power consumption warning message. I got around the problem by setting the camera to turn off after 8 hours. The reason for this is that the only time my car is parked for more than a few hours (let alone 8 hours) is when it's in my garage at night. Therefore, turning it off after this period works well for me. Since changing this setting, I haven't seen the warning again. The installer in the video mentions the higher quality Multi Safer as a much better option over Blackvue's Power Magic Pro. I would use this too, except my Lukas camera has its own battery management built into the camera.
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| luv4me (10hp) | Hello, I have a month old F10 550xi and someone has already scratched it. I chose the Thinkware x500 dashcam as recommended by opasha. Attached is a picture of the fuse box behind the glove compartment. I've searched and searched and haven't been able to get a clear idea of which fuse is permanently on at 12V (stays on for recording while the car is parked and locked) and which fuse is on. I would be very grateful for recommendations. I'm also including what I found online. Thanks
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| optimusprime (418hp) | If you want to detect door noises/scratches, you should get a camera with motion detection. But then you still wouldn't be able to identify her unless her car is still there. Usually people knock on your car when they drive away and there is a chance that this camera won't capture your license plate. The camera you are considering purchasing is intended for driving or capturing the valet/mechanic's joy while driving your car. What you need is a camera with motion detection and a battery life of at least 3 hours. The 550xi has enough battery issues as it is, I'm not sure you want to connect a permanent power consumer. Of course, the camera doesn't use much battery, but these batteries are terribly inefficient and drain slowly. If you compare the battery capacity to what an indoor lamp needs to work all night, it is probably only a tiny amount. However, once you forget to turn it off overnight, the battery will be completely drained by morning. This issue occurs with all high discharge/charge batteries except lithium-ion batteries. This is why lithium-ion batteries are used in slow-drain devices. Since you live in Chicago, depending on which part, you may not want to have this in your car. Someone will just break your window and steal it.
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| jermuuu (747hp) | I'm sorry to hear that your ride is already scarred. But as for the camera, I don't think it will be of any use in stopping inconsiderate people from damaging your beautiful car. It's best to park where you can minimize the risk of damage.
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| Exi (249hp) | I look forward to any feedback. I researched and purchased the dash cam. I may agree or disagree with some or all of the thoughts expressed here, but the point of the post was to find a constant power source in the fuse box behind the glove box rather than running the wiring all the way to the battery in the trunk. If anyone can help me with this, thank you. The only possible answer I've found so far that might help is an OBD2 backup.
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| concerto (764hp) | Check out http://www.blackboxmycar.com/pages/h...ash-cam-on-bmw. You used a 5 to install Blackvue
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| 27071981 (21hp) | For constant performance, use fuse 121 for the radiator fan. I used this for myself. And better use the fuse on the back. It is more accessible. There is also a metal nut that you can unscrew and attach the ground wire to. This is located on the same rear fuse box. You will need to extend your cables as they need to run to the back of the car. Simply cut the existing cables, attach them and route them through the door rubber and side pillar panels. I use front and back cameras.
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| 2236 (183hp) | Quote: Originally written by Josparky. Use fuse 121 for the radiator fan to ensure constant power. I used this for myself. And better use the fuse on the back. It is more accessible. There is also a metal nut that you can unscrew and attach the ground wire to. This is located on the same rear fuse box. You will need to extend your cables as they need to run to the back of the car. Simply cut the existing cables, attach them and route them through the door rubber and side pillar panels. I use front and back cameras. Thank you. I would still prefer to connect the dashcam to the front fuse box. The only option I see currently is to sit in the locked car for 20 minutes while it goes into sleep mode and then use the fuse tester to see which one has power. On the other hand, looking at the fuse diagram, fuse 121 is in the same category as 43 and 46, so I think this might work.
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| njhnbr (285hp) | http://f10.5post.com/forums/showthread.php?t=1042815&highlight=Stay+on+after+s hut+off
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| dcshoes1 (159hp) | You have to be a lot more flexible than me, I can't even get to half the fuses in my front fuse box (2015 F10), I don't understand why BMW would put a fuse box where access is so difficult.
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| bertie1 (125hp) | I have Thinkware x500 with rear camera option installed and everything works great. I used fuse #11 for continuous 12V in parking mode. It took me a while to figure out which fuse still gets power when the car is in sleep mode. I can definitely recommend x500. Camera and software are great and very easy to use. Here are the correct pictures of the fuse boxes and also a description of the meaning of each symbol, courtesy of the m5 forum. Grandpasha, if you ever come back, thank you for your recommendation on camera selection. Thanks also to Josparky for the advice.
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| seetha (543hp) | Fuse 3, OBD, I use it for both front and rear cameras.
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| mira123 (241hp) | Quote: Originally written by hungdynasty Fuse 3, OBD, I use it for both front and rear cameras. Do you ever get this warning after leaving the car overnight??
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| skater99 (548hp) | A few times. My experience is that I sometimes get this message if I leave the cameras on for more than five hours.
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| good4you (952hp) | Stupid questions. What method did you use to tap into the fuse box? Did you use a fuse tap or tap the wire directly???
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| james17 (432hp) | Quote: Originally posted by Carbonm3ny Stupid questions. What method did you use to tap into the fuse box? Did you use a fuse tap or tap the wire directly? Search for this on Amazon: Pico 0956PT 10 Amp ATM Mini Blade Fuse Add-A-Circuit Fuse Holder http://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B00...BY9ANQ306D1GX4 This may be silly, but be sure to install it Both the original fuse that you pull out of the fuse box and the additional fuse, otherwise the system will not work. I didn't do this originally and the whole thing didn't work. I used a new fuse that matches the current rating of the original fuse.
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| NYC535iowner (547hp) | Quote: Originally posted by ellisina4. Search for this on Amazon: Pico 0956PT 10 Amp ATM Mini Blade Fuse Add-A-Circuit Fuse Holder http://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B00...BY9ANQ306D1GX4 This could be silly, but be careful. Install both the original fuse that you pull out of the fuse box and the additional fuse, otherwise the system will not work. I didn't do this originally and the whole thing didn't work. I used a new fuse that matches the current rating of the original fuse. I used it too. Just make sure you insert the plug so that the current flows through the second fuse to the cable. Otherwise, the current will flow directly to the cable without fuse protection, which can be dangerous.
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| 8520456 (334hp) | In case anyone is interested, I got tired of hearing the "battery discharged" warning when the battery was dead because the dash cam was connected to the ACC and permanent power fuses in the fuse box behind the glove box. I purchased the Cellink B battery from Blackboxmycar for $180 with cigarette lighter plug. I found a very good location for it. There is an area at the top of the glove box that perfectly houses the Cellink B battery and there is also a cigarette lighter plug to the right of the glove box (I have a 2015 F10 550i). In addition, the battery does not take up space in the glove compartment. The installation took 20 minutes and I only connected my Thinkware x500 dash cam to the battery without also connecting the battery to the accessory fuse. In this way, BMW Service cannot even comment on additional aftermarket products installed in the vehicle. The battery is only charged via the cigarette lighter while driving.
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| 4545454545 (359hp) | Quote: Originally posted by ellisina4 In case anyone is interested: I'm tired of getting the "battery discharges while stationary" warning because the dash cam was connected to the ACC and permanent power fuses in the fuse box behind the glove box. I purchased the Cellink B battery from Blackboxmycar for $180 with cigarette lighter plug. I found a very good location for it. There is an area at the top of the glove box that perfectly houses the Cellink B battery and there is also a cigarette lighter plug to the right of the glove box (I have a 2015 F10 550i). In addition, the battery does not take up space in the glove compartment. The installation took 20 minutes and I only connected my Thinkware x500 dash cam to the battery without also connecting the battery to the accessory fuse. In this way, BMW Service cannot even comment on additional aftermarket products installed in the vehicle. The battery is only charged via the cigarette lighter while driving. How do you like Thinkware? I'm currently looking for a dashcam too
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| 06051984 (375hp) | Quote: Originally written by mragarg How do you like Thinkware? I'm currently looking for a dash cam and can definitely recommend it. Great camera all around: quality of videos, customization of options, easy to use software, etc. I looked around at other brands and found Thinkware to be a good choice. Don't waste your money on the F series camera. I bought my x500 from Amazon.
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| atharva (215hp) | I know this is an older post, but I was also looking for help with DIY hardwired dash cam installation. I had previously done it myself on my F30, but wanted to see if there were any tips here for the F10. Anyway, I did some more searching and found a video about DIY installation of a 2 channel camera specifically on an F10! I actually found a video that the same people made installing an F30 and an F80 that previously helped me install on my F30. I was pretty excited to find a video of the installation specifically on the F10! No guesswork about which Fueses to tap! Installing the camera took about 50 minutes! Hopefully this helps others looking for information on hardwiring a dash cam! Notes from Coles: BATT+ (yellow) - #177 (fan) - large 20A fuse ACC+ (red) - #155 (trunk) - small 15A fuse
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| a222222 (523hp) | I installed my Blackvue 650 using the video above and it's spot on. It took me less than an hour. But be careful, when you start the car for the first time in the morning, you will receive a message that the battery is discharged. I'm not too worried about the message since I also have Power Magic Pro installed. There is another version of Power Magic Pro for BMWs to ensure the dead battery message doesn't appear, and I haven't gotten around to installing that yet.
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| faramir (587hp) | Quote: Originally posted by TTG. I installed my Blackvue 650 using the video above and it's spot on. It took me less than an hour. But be careful, when you start the car for the first time in the morning, you will receive a message that the battery is discharged. I'm not too worried about the message since I also have Power Magic Pro installed. There is another version of Power Magic Pro for BMWs to ensure the dead battery message doesn't appear, and I haven't gotten around to installing that yet. I actually kept getting the same power consumption warning message. I got around the problem by setting the camera to turn off after 8 hours. The reason for this is that the only time my car is parked for more than a few hours (let alone 8 hours) is when it's in my garage at night. Therefore, turning it off after this period works well for me. Since changing this setting, I haven't seen the warning again. The installer in the video mentions the higher quality Multi Safer as a much better option over Blackvue's Power Magic Pro. I would use this too, except my Lukas camera has its own battery management built into the camera.
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| d1d2d3 (464hp) | What do you think is the best lease rate I could get on a remaining new 2016 MY F10 550iX M-Sport? Although I'm very happy with my current 2012 550iX, I can't help but think it makes sense to lease a new one considering there are some great deals coming with the release of the new 5 Series gives.
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| banane (419hp) | http://f10.5post.com/forums/forumdisplay.php?f=312 It's probably better to post here, but I'm sure you'll get some answers in this thread.
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| 2424 (398hp) | What do you think is the best lease rate I could get on a remaining new 2016 MY F10 550iX M-Sport? Although I'm very happy with my current 2012 550iX, I can't help but think it makes sense to lease a new one considering there are some great deals coming with the release of the new 5 Series gives.
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| hottstuff (80hp) | http://f10.5post.com/forums/forumdisplay.php?f=312 It's probably better to post here, but I'm sure you'll get some answers in this thread.
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| nana01 (732hp) | I was browsing YouTube and came across this video. I can safely say this is 110% accurate! For those of you who have seen it, I already know you agree with me, and for those of you who haven't seen it, hereby!
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| qq112233 (20hp) | When I bought my BMW one of my friends sent me this. I just watched it again and couldn't stop laughing at how true it really is.
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| stockholm1 (764hp) | Quote: Originally written by Jason49 When I bought my BMW one of my friends sent me this. I just watched it again and couldn't stop laughing at how true it really is. Hahah, it's so funny, but it's missing the BMW gear
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| lol111 (516hp) | Funny how most of the BMW drivers I see on my roads are actually good, careful drivers, even if that's the stereotype. I imagine the rice machines do this, but this category applies to all brands
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| 060489 (689hp) | Haaaaha, I loved it. So you're spot on about the cliché... I need to get one of these headsets.
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| curt (471hp) | I saw this a few days ago and laughed my ass off!
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| nicholas6 (149hp) | Quote: Originally written by ALPWhite. I saw this a few days ago and laughed my ass off! !!!
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| 1111111111q (833hp) | I was valedictorian
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| tx328xi (815hp) | I was browsing YouTube and came across this video. I can safely say this is 110% accurate! For those of you who have seen it, I already know you agree with me, and for those of you who haven't seen it, hereby!
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| SpencerM3 (817hp) | When I bought my BMW one of my friends sent me this. I just watched it again and couldn't stop laughing at how true it really is.
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| srs_bsns (645hp) | Quote: Originally written by Jason49 When I bought my BMW one of my friends sent me this. I just watched it again and couldn't stop laughing at how true it really is. Hahah, it's so funny, but it's missing the BMW gear
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| olyashev12 (535hp) | Funny how, despite the stereotype, most of the BMW drivers I see on my roads are good, careful drivers. I imagine the rice machines do this, but this category applies to all brands
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| jason10 (142hp) | Haaaaha, I loved it. So you're spot on about the cliché... I need to get one of these headsets.
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| Acexxon (401hp) | I saw this a few days ago and laughed my ass off!
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| chippy1 (640hp) | Quote: Originally written by ALPWhite. I saw this a few days ago and laughed my ass off! !!!
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| maverick7 (251hp) | I was valedictorian
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| 070883 (26hp) | Is that correct??? Which models? Which year ?
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| cacat123 (627hp) | This is the list I saw online. I can't guarantee it's complete, but here are the ones I've read so far: 2007-2011: BMW X5 3.0si X5 4.8i, X5 M –2011: 650i Cabrio 650i xDrive Cabrio 650i Coupé 650i Coupé xDrive http://www.ibtimes.com/bmw-recall-20...l-pump-2438649
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| terrell2 (443hp) | Pretty. I just started smelling fuel every time I got in my car.
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| lulu13 (824hp) | I asked my SA about it. He checked his bulletins and so far found nothing. He will inform me when he receives information.
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| christin (480hp) | lol damn I love it when the dealer does free work on my car. Unfortunately I have a 2013, so not affected
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| intensee92 (168hp) | This is a fuel pump module and the wiring could become loose over its lifetime. The recall will not begin in the US until December
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| diank123 (545hp) | Is it US specific??
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| origami (202hp) | Is that correct??? Which models? Which year ?
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| freedom23 (907hp) | This is the list I saw online. I can't guarantee it's complete, but here are the ones I've read so far: 2007-2011: BMW X5 3.0si X5 4.8i, X5 M –2011: 650i Cabrio 650i xDrive Cabrio 650i Coupé 650i Coupé xDrive http://www.ibtimes.com/bmw-recall-20...l-pump-2438649
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| saurav (538hp) | Pretty. I just started smelling fuel every time I got in my car.
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| newworld (629hp) | I asked my SA about it. He checked his bulletins and so far found nothing. He will inform me when he receives information.
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| priceless1 (511hp) | lol damn I love it when the dealer does free work on my car. Unfortunately I have a 2013, so not affected
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| orange9 (53hp) | This is a fuel pump module and the wiring could become loose over its lifetime. The recall will not begin in the US until December
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| sex111 (14hp) | Is it US specific??
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| butterfl (104hp) | Hi everyone, I had my fuel tank replaced last spring due to a bad fuel level sensor, but since then I have had intermittent rough idling. I asked my service advisor about this, but was told it couldn't have anything to do with the previous work. As the temperature dropped over the last month, the severity and frequency of rough idling worsened and there were 6-8 morning cold start powertrain malfunctions. When there is a powertrain malfunction, I turn off the device and reboot and the error is gone. I had my car scanned by AutoZone today and received a receipt with the message P0303: Cylinder 3 Misfire, with possible causes being fuel injector, vacuum leak, or mechanical condition of the engine. My extended warranty covers fuel injectors, but not spark plugs. Is there a chance this is spark plug related or are the symptoms and trouble code different? I also had the CCP done some time ago. Would the CCP or measures thereafter under SI B11 07 15 cover spark plugs if I need them? And if fuel injectors are needed, does that fall under the CCP or does it fall under my extended warranty? The work carried out under the CCP is covered for 10 years, correct? I'm trying to avoid the dealer charging a diagnostic fee for spark plugs that I would have done elsewhere and ideally this would be covered by the CCP without having to pay an extended warranty deductible. Thanks.
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| pretty01 (372hp) | I'm in the same boat. I took my 2012 N63 to the dealer on Saturday and barely got it there. CCP was performed +/- 2,000 miles ago. I asked the dealer to cover the CCP warranty. The service advisor said he would do so if the error was determined to be related to work covered by CCP. Fingers crossed.
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| 241094 (384hp) | The dealer called: HPFP bank 1 failure, bad cylinder 1 coil, and a bad spark plug (not sure which cylinder, but suspect #2). $961. I let them do the work even though I already bought the pump (I can take it back). The dealer said the CCP warranty doesn't cover the engine (imagine that!).
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| 260289 (525hp) | Hi everyone, I had my fuel tank replaced last spring due to a bad fuel level sensor, but since then I have had intermittent rough idling. I asked my service advisor about this, but was told it couldn't have anything to do with the previous work. As the temperature dropped over the last month, the severity and frequency of rough idling worsened and there were 6-8 morning cold start powertrain malfunctions. When there is a powertrain malfunction, I turn off the device and reboot and the error is gone. I had my car scanned by AutoZone today and received a receipt with the message P0303: Cylinder 3 Misfire, with possible causes being fuel injector, vacuum leak, or mechanical condition of the engine. My extended warranty covers fuel injectors, but not spark plugs. Is there a chance this is spark plug related or are the symptoms and trouble code different? I also had the CCP done some time ago. Would the CCP or measures thereafter under SI B11 07 15 cover spark plugs if I need them? And if fuel injectors are needed, does that fall under the CCP or does it fall under my extended warranty? The work carried out under the CCP is covered for 10 years, correct? I'm trying to avoid the dealer charging a diagnostic fee for spark plugs that I would have done elsewhere and ideally this would be covered by the CCP without having to pay an extended warranty deductible. Thanks.
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| 23142314 (467hp) | I'm in the same boat. I took my 2012 N63 to the dealer on Saturday and barely got it there. CCP was performed +/- 2,000 miles ago. I asked the dealer to cover the CCP warranty. The service advisor said he would do so if the error was determined to be related to work covered by CCP. Fingers crossed.
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| frankgustavo (535hp) | The dealer called: HPFP bank 1 failure, bad cylinder 1 coil, and a bad spark plug (not sure which cylinder, but suspect #2). $961. I let them do the work even though I already bought the pump (I can take it back). The dealer said the CCP warranty doesn't cover the engine (imagine that!).
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| Eddien123 (321hp) | Hey guys, I'm currently selling my 528xi so here comes the part! CF Hamann front lip CF side mirror CF rear spoiler gloss black roof spoiler CKS coilovers (500-1000 miles) AFE Stage 2 inlet ER downpipe (5,000 miles) JB4 + Bluetooth connection kit Forgestar F14 20X9 standard matt black + all-season Toyo tires CF eye lid (no 3m -tape) We accept offers on everything! So send me a message or text me at 616-308-2806. For heaven's sake, please don't call me. I'm a student, so I could be in class. The buyer pays shipping!
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| bartekfi (961hp) | Here are a few pictures
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| dmuser (985hp) | Damn college students ride clean looking whips lol
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| Shannon (772hp) | Quote: Originally posted by belarus27. Damn college students ride clean looking whips. lol Unfortunately our women are dirty
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| 1bulldog (378hp) | Can you please send me the prices for the CF mirror caps and CF spoiler? Thanks
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| killer93 (710hp) | Quote: Originally posted by Armanm, can you please PM me the prices for the CF mirror caps and CF spoiler? Thanks. Like I said... I accept offers
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| thisisgay (392hp) | How much would you like to get for the wheels??
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| cellphone3 (149hp) | Quote: Originally posted by Ickdeep How much would you like to get for the wheels? So far this is the highest offer I have received $1600
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| pride1 (201hp) | Is that a 4 cylinder??
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| 198310 (188hp) | Quote: Originally written by Mbbrewer Is that a 4 cylinder? Yes
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| jabulani (356hp) | They should just post the prices for each item instead of keeping people guessing. Like the CF mirror covers and spoiler: - Are they OEM, most likely no - What is the brand? - Does your car have a driver assistance package? -Have you removed the mirrors yet, are the tabs still there? Also, what is the condition of the front spoiler? These are all items that interest me, but I won't blindly make an offer on something I don't know details about. I'm just trying to help you. GLWS
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| bumbling (590hp) | Hey guys, I'm currently selling my 528xi so here comes the part! CF Hamann front lip CF side mirror CF rear spoiler gloss black roof spoiler CKS coilovers (500-1000 miles) AFE Stage 2 inlet ER downpipe (5,000 miles) JB4 + Bluetooth connection kit Forgestar F14 20X9 standard matt black + all-season Toyo tires CF eye lid (no 3m -tape) We accept offers on everything! So send me a message or text me at 616-308-2806. For heaven's sake, please don't call me. I'm a student, so I could be in class. The buyer pays shipping!
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| interns (576hp) | Here are a few pictures
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| pronto (201hp) | Damn college students ride clean looking whips lol
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| paragon1 (7hp) | Quote: Originally posted by belarus27. Damn college students ride clean looking whips. lol Unfortunately our women are dirty
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| 110980 (130hp) | Can you please send me the prices for the CF mirror caps and CF spoiler? Thanks
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| askim123 (551hp) | Quote: Originally posted by Armanm, can you please PM me the prices for the CF mirror caps and CF spoiler? Thanks. Like I said... I accept offers
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| desi123 (203hp) | How much would you like to get for the wheels??
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| PsychoSlug (408hp) | Quote: Originally posted by Ickdeep How much would you like to get for the wheels? So far this is the highest offer I have received $1600
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| 187F10 (448hp) | Is that a 4 cylinder??
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| l0veyou (993hp) | Quote: Originally written by Mbbrewer Is that a 4 cylinder? Yes
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| user1234 (713hp) | They should just post the prices for each item instead of keeping people guessing. Like the CF mirror covers and spoiler: - Are they OEM, most likely no - What is the brand? - Does your car have a driver assistance package? -Have you removed the mirrors yet, are the tabs still there? Also, what is the condition of the front spoiler? These are all items that interest me, but I won't blindly make an offer on something I don't know details about. I'm just trying to help you. GLWS
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| bumblebee2 (296hp) | Today when I opened the trunk, I touched the backup camera (not pushed, just touched) and oops, it went right back into the trunk. I jiggled the plastic trunk opener bracket a bit and it came loose - no surprise - there are two plastic latches holding the camera in place that somehow broke off, although to be honest I never used the camera in any way abused. Should be an easy repair - the holder costs about $30. However: 1. The way the rear camera is attached to the trunk is ridiculous - I have stronger clasps in my PC case. 2. What's even more ridiculous is how incredibly easy it is to steal this camera in 10 seconds or less, but I wouldn't go into details in a public forum.
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| logic7r (834hp) | OK, to update. The shutters are actually pretty sturdy, but either the plastic has aged or someone tried to steal my camera. Here's the old part: Now the obligatory DIY follow-up. Part number (in my case) is 51-24-7-368-753 RELEASE SWITCH, 24 EUR without shipping. Note 1: The trunk liner does not need to be removed. Tools required: little fingers, plastic pry tool, cloth (to avoid scratches and dents), long flathead screwdriver, hand cream (for after...). Note 2: The release switch is a consumable item - if you install it, you cannot remove it without destroying it (confirmed with ISTA). Now I learned this the hard way and managed to remove it again with only a single plastic latch broken - it looks like a good seal to me but there is a risk of water getting in so I might needs to be replaced again. 1. Remove the old switch. If your switch isn't broken, use a plastic tool and a cloth to pull it out. It's held in place by several (I think 6) plastic latches - if it's broken, just rip it off (carefully,-) 2. Disconnect the trunk opener cable - some wiggling is required, I believe it There is also a release latch - mine was pretty easy to pull out. 3. Install the rear camera into the socket - not a lot of cable and space to work with... Now here comes the tricky part: Before you put the release switch back on, make sure that both camera latches are engaged - this requires a lot of effort and some effort Pressure from above (I used a wrench, you can use a small flathead screwdriver). If both latches don't engage, it goes straight back into the trunk. 4. Test whether the switch works and can open the trunk. Check whether the camera cannot be pushed back easily. 5. Slide the switch into the slot, making sure it clicks into place on all sides. Visually check for gaps. 6. If your fingers hurt, use hand lotion as needed. difficulty: 2/10
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| yellow24 (77hp) | Tldr
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| superman26 (773hp) | Today when I opened the trunk, I touched the backup camera (not pushed, just touched) and oops, it went right back into the trunk. I jiggled the plastic trunk opener bracket a bit and it came loose - no surprise - there are two plastic latches holding the camera in place that somehow broke off, although to be honest I never used the camera in any way abused. Should be an easy repair - the holder costs about $30. However: 1. The way the rear camera is attached to the trunk is ridiculous - I have stronger clasps in my PC case. 2. What's even more ridiculous is how incredibly easy it is to steal this camera in 10 seconds or less, but I wouldn't go into details in a public forum.
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| minnie3 (969hp) | OK, to update. The shutters are actually pretty sturdy, but either the plastic has aged or someone tried to steal my camera. Here's the old part: Now the obligatory DIY follow-up. Part number (in my case) is 51-24-7-368-753 RELEASE SWITCH, 24 EUR without shipping. Note 1: The trunk liner does not need to be removed. Tools required: little fingers, plastic pry tool, cloth (to avoid scratches and dents), long flathead screwdriver, hand cream (for after...). Note 2: The release switch is a consumable item - if you install it, you cannot remove it without destroying it (confirmed with ISTA). Now I learned this the hard way and managed to remove it again with only a single plastic latch broken - it looks like a good seal to me but there is a risk of water getting in so I might needs to be replaced again. 1. Remove the old switch. If your switch isn't broken, use a plastic tool and a cloth to pull it out. It's held in place by several (I think 6) plastic latches - if it's broken, just rip it off (carefully,-) 2. Disconnect the trunk opener cable - some wiggling is required, I believe it There is also a release latch - mine was pretty easy to pull out. 3. Install the rear camera into the socket - not a lot of cable and space to work with... Now here comes the tricky part: Before you put the release switch back on, make sure that both camera latches are engaged - this requires a lot of effort and some effort Pressure from above (I used a wrench, you can use a small flathead screwdriver). If both latches don't engage, it goes straight back into the trunk. 4. Test whether the switch works and can open the trunk. Check whether the camera cannot be pushed back easily. 5. Slide the switch into the slot, making sure it clicks into place on all sides. Visually check for gaps. 6. If your fingers hurt, use hand lotion as needed. difficulty: 2/10
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| bluesky2 (217hp) | Tldr
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