Username: | Message: |
sam.k (58hp) | I don't know about you guys, but I don't think the brake light in front of me is annoying at all..
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redcar1 (228hp) | Quote: Originally posted by The X Men I don't know about you guys, but I don't run the brake light in front of me at all, which is annoying. Try this on a typical UK winter day, rush hour, 5:30 p.m., already dark, slow steady rain, drizzle...and the brake lights start to get annoying..
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123456789qwertyuiop (799hp) | Quote: Originally posted by gspannu Try this on a typical UK winter day, rush hour traffic, 5:30pm, already dark, slow steady rain, drizzle...and the brake lights start to become boring. I know exactly what you mean, except the winter darkness starts around 3:30 p.m. here .
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callisto (722hp) | Quote: Originally posted by Jon D I was the one who provided the update, thank you for your clarification, but I can assure you that it is not necessary, I am well aware that the park is automatically selected when the door is opened. From what I read it, you were wondering why the brake lights went off when you opened your door and got out of the car. Quote: Posted by Jon D Which handbrake? The F10 only has an electromechanical parking brake, and whether it is applied manually or automatically, the brake lights come on. This is different from cars that are equipped with traditional, lever-operated manual handbrakes, which do not illuminate the brake lights. The handbrake? It is the one applied by hand, rather than that applied by the foot. If you are traveling at low speed and apply it, it triggers an emergency stop and yes, it turns on the brake lights. If applied while stationary and assuming the brake pedal is released, the brake lights will not come on, even if the car is left in position D..
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christ01 (102hp) | Quote: Originally posted by fat dog ...If applied while stationary and assuming the brake pedal is released, the brake lights do not illuminate, even if the car is left in D Here we go again, this is exactly what I thought was supposed to behave. However, to reiterate one of my earlier statements, while I was in stationary traffic on Monday, with the car in D, foot off the brake and auto hold engaged, based on the reflection in the car behind , I clearly saw that my brake lights were on. . This was confirmed when I noticed they exploded when I walked away..
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alejo (264hp) | Quote: Originally posted by fat dog The way I read it, you were wondering why the brake lights went off when you opened your door and got out of the car... You clearly have misread my statement because, at no point, did I mention that there was any head scratching involved. I simply performed the procedure to ensure that the brake lights did not stay on with the car in auto hold. My later confusion arose from the fact that I noticed this was inconsistent, sometimes they stay on and on other occasions they go off. I have checked this on rare occasions and at all times with the car in D, foot off the brake and in auto hold. Granted, it's not always possible to be 100% sure from the reflection in the car behind, so I'm going to do a definitive test with the help of someone observing from behind..
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mommy32 (862hp) | Quote: Posted by Jon D Here we go again, this is exactly how I thought he was supposed to behave. However, to reiterate one of my earlier statements, while I was in stationary traffic on Monday, with the car in D, foot off the brake and auto hold engaged, based on the reflection in the car behind , I clearly saw that my brake lights were on. . This was confirmed when I noticed they exploded as I walked away. I'm talking about being stationary and using the hand/parking/electromechanical brake but without auto hold activated. In this situation and with the foot released from the pedal, the brake lights will not come on, regardless of the position in which the gear lever is located. I posted to demonstrate that, for example, it is possible to sit at a traffic light with the car gone in D and the brake lights are not on (and thus causing glare for the driver behind). You can then start normally by simply pressing the accelerator without having to release the hand/parking/electromechanical brake, as this happens automatically and imperceptibly. I don't know why you are experiencing inconsistencies with the brake lights in auto hold mode. For me, whenever auto hold engages, the brake lights are always on (and that's exactly what I would expect). Do you also put the car in P or is your routine exactly the same every time? One thing I haven't tried is allowing the auto hold to engage, then applying the hand/parking/electromechanical brake and releasing the pedal. Will the lights be on or off?
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4455 (673hp) | Quote: Originally posted by gspannu Try this on a typical UK winter day, rush hour traffic, 5:30pm, already dark, slow steady rain, drizzle...and the brake lights start to become boring. We have similar winter traffic here in New England, except instead of rain we have snow and ice..
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canibal (225hp) | In another thread there was talk about getting warnings from the car about a flat tire, but when complaining it didn't say which one (I don't have TPMS). Well, now it has indicated which one has low pressure (right rear). So look like after just 2000 miles I have to buy a new tire. Fortunately, it appeared the leak was small, so we were able to re-inflate the air and continue without any warning. For those of you who have had to replace a tire, valve and cap, match the replacement parts to those on the car. something new? that is, get this metal valve cap. When replacing tires in the past, I just received a rather cheap plastic cap. You want it to match the others, does BMW supply them or is this an industry standard? Just a bit of trouble making sure it matches the other wheels
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duffy1 (866hp) | The cap is the same thread as the plastic ones. Just put the metal one back.
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m0t0r0la (937hp) | well done, I'll have to sort this out, just look at the prices and I almost feel out of my chair! Similar tires cost around £350 plus top mount, so not very cheap at all (it's a 275/24 R19 Y). I currently have Michellin Primacy on my vehicle so I need to purchase one that matches. I will ask a BM dealer to sort this out for me. I doubt I can claim this under warranty - I highly doubt it is a tire defect as such.
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gbemisola (110hp) | Even BMW dealers install the industry standard plastic models. My advice is to remove the alloy cap before entering the car. Theft of alloy caps was a problem in the UK as boys wanted them for their push bikes. My local dealer sells replacement caps and has a box that must contain thousands. He said he had such a big box to meet the demand. The standard UK TPWS sounds an alarm and indicates which one is flat. It happened on Good Friday. As the Easter holiday is a public holiday in the UK, it can only be booked on the following Tuesday. I went to dealers with a completely flat tire that was replaced then bad news came, my other rear also has a screw and was also at zero pressure. No second alarm displayed. The system uses ABS data to compare rotation, so when the first tire goes flat alarm, I assume the second tire went down slower and was flat on Tuesday with both at zero, the system would not recognize any difference in rotation speed and therefore no alarm. Flat tires have a smaller overall diameter, so faster rotation is a simple explanation of how the system works..
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07041980 (239hp) | Personally, I wouldn't let the dealer sell you a new tire. The markup they have on them is absolutely huge and most will only get a mobile installer to install it anyway and tell you they installed it. I was once at my dealer when they were selling someone an NCT5 runflat for an E60 and it was about £130 more expensive than the online prices shown..
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sophie15 (80hp) | If you read your tire warranty package, the manufacturer will replace the tire, not knowing what causes it would cover as long as it is not lower than 4/32. It's worth taking a look to save yourself 400$.
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sangeeta (960hp) | thanks, I will definitely ask about the warranty, I have nothing to lose.
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chowchow (351hp) | In another thread there was talk about getting warnings from the car about a flat tire, but when complaining it didn't say which one (I don't have TPMS). Well, now it has indicated which one has low pressure (right rear). So look like after just 2000 miles I have to buy a new tire. Fortunately, it appeared the leak was small, so we were able to re-inflate the air and continue without any warning. For those of you who have had to replace a tire, valve and cap, match the replacement parts to those on the car. something new? that is, get this metal valve cap. When replacing tires in the past, I just received a rather cheap plastic cap. You want it to match the others, does BMW supply them or is this an industry standard? Just a bit of trouble making sure it matches the other wheels
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Mjobmi (131hp) | The cap is the same thread as the plastic ones. Just put the metal one back.
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crjnbyf (357hp) | well done, I'll have to sort this out, just look at the prices and I almost feel out of my chair! Similar tires cost around £350 plus top mount, so not very cheap at all (it's a 275/24 R19 Y). I currently have Michellin Primacy on my vehicle so I need to purchase one that matches. I will ask a BM dealer to sort this out for me. I doubt I can claim this under warranty - I highly doubt it is a tire defect as such.
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diva07 (135hp) | Even BMW dealers install the industry standard plastic models. My advice is to remove the alloy cap before entering the car. Theft of alloy caps was a problem in the UK as boys wanted them for their push bikes. My local dealer sells replacement caps and has a box that must contain thousands. He said he had such a big box to meet the demand. The standard UK TPWS sounds an alarm and indicates which one is flat. It happened on Good Friday. As the Easter holiday is a public holiday in the UK, it can only be booked on the following Tuesday. I went to dealers with a completely flat tire that was replaced then bad news came, my other rear also has a screw and was also at zero pressure. No second alarm displayed. The system uses ABS data to compare rotation, so when the first tire goes flat alarm, I assume the second tire went down slower and was flat on Tuesday with both at zero, the system would not recognize any difference in rotation speed and therefore no alarm. Flat tires have a smaller overall diameter, so faster rotation is a simple explanation of how the system works..
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imahoe1 (278hp) | Personally, I wouldn't let the dealer sell you a new tire. The markup they have on them is absolutely huge and most will only get a mobile installer to install it anyway and tell you they installed it. I was once at my dealer when they were selling someone an NCT5 runflat for an E60 and it was about £130 more expensive than the online prices shown..
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300989 (369hp) | If you read your tire warranty package, the manufacturer will replace the tire, not knowing what causes it would cover as long as it is not lower than 4/32. It's worth taking a look to save yourself 400$.
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Never Convicted (324hp) | thanks, I will definitely ask about the warranty, I have nothing to lose.
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bsacks8108 (309hp) | Can anyone describe the steps needed to remove the 550 exhaust tips...just the tips...I don't want to cut and re-weld new pipes, I just want to weld new tips in place. If anyone can help I would greatly appreciate it. I've searched and there are no clear instructions or descriptions on removing trapezoidal spikes? What should be noted and what should be monitored and what best recommended set of measures should be taken, etc. Thanks in advance.
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19121985 (381hp) | See this thread for an approach. I purchased the same Borla bits (paintable chrome black) and plan to install them the same way. http://f10.5post.com/forums/showthread.php?t=630331
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witchcraft (245hp) | Thanks for the link...I guess it's not possible to modify just the exhaust tip...as the link provided has the pipes cut from the edge of the muffler...the check valve return is included...isn't the flip flap important!? Will this show an error code?
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MBPOR (398hp) | If you read the thread, someone posted a link to another thread explaining how the butterfly valve on mufflers works. Several people have posted about the valve being stuck open, only resulting in a slightly louder exhaust note..
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sempre (915hp) | I'm in the same boat...just wondering. What did you end up doing? THANKS
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Potter (129hp) | If you are not using the back pressure hoses with valve control, definitely plug them in. You don't want to leave them open.
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johnrey (442hp) | Can anyone describe the steps needed to remove the 550 exhaust tips...just the tips...I don't want to cut and re-weld new pipes, I just want to weld new tips in place. If anyone can help I would greatly appreciate it. I've searched and there are no clear instructions or descriptions on removing trapezoidal spikes? What should be noted and what should be monitored and what best recommended set of measures should be taken, etc. Thanks in advance.
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19011981 (199hp) | See this thread for an approach. I purchased the same Borla bits (paintable chrome black) and plan to install them the same way. http://f10.5post.com/forums/showthread.php?t=630331
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oliver7 (835hp) | Thanks for the link... I guess it's not possible to modify just the exhaust tip... as the link provided has the pipes cut from the edge of the muffler... the check valve return is included...isn't the flip flap important!? Will this show an error code?
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210983 (452hp) | If you read the thread, someone posted a link to another thread explaining how the butterfly valve on mufflers works. Several people have posted about the valve being stuck open, only resulting in a slightly louder exhaust note..
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controle (154hp) | I'm in the same boat...just wondering. What did you end up doing? THANKS
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241290 (37hp) | If you are not using the back pressure hoses with valve control, definitely plug them in. You don't want to leave them open.
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fit4life (432hp) | Hi everyone, I'm looking to pick up a 535xi in the next few days. Can anyone give me an idea of average MPG? I know it depends on the city/highway, I'll do about 60% city and 40% highway...just trying to get a feel for it. A reason not to buy the 2012 and order the 2013? Thank you in advance for your contribution!
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Vacek (938hp) | Quote: Originally posted by pMart36 Hi everyone, I'm looking to pick up a 535xi in the next few days. Can anyone give me an idea of average MPG? I know it depends on the city/highway, I'll do about 60% city and 40% highway...just trying to get a feel for it. A reason not to buy the 2012 and order the 2013? Thank you in advance for your contribution! Why do you need four-wheel drive to live in San Francisco? Both wheels will get you much better MPG.
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shreeram (85hp) | 23-23.5 MPG and I normally drive primarily in Comfort mode. I also drive about 70% on the highway.
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4646 (16hp) | Quote: Posted by mspeasl Why do you need four-wheel drive to live in San Francisco? Both wheels will get you much better MPG. I spend most of the winter in Lake Tahoe. Since I'm selling my Escalade to get the 535, I need AWD. I hope to average around 23-24 mpg, which will double my current mpg with the Escalade. Spending $250-300 less on gas per month is attractive.
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chloe10 (995hp) | When I do a 50/50 highway/city commute, I get about 21 MPG or so.
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pimpin22 (60hp) | I drive 80% in the city in sport mode, 40,000 km in the car, 17 mpg on average.
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pornstar1 (715hp) | I drive 80% in the city and 20% on the highway. I use Econo mode most of the time and get 24 mpg..
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jew123 (39hp) | 2013 come with a much faster and nicer navigation system, both hardware and software. Unless you're getting a 2012 for almost $10,000 off MSRP, I'd order a 2013 model. Searching through some people here, I got some crazy prices on the Alan 12.
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paddington (843hp) | Quote: Originally posted by Alan L. 2013 comes with a much faster and nicer navigation system, both hardware and software. Unless you're getting a 2012 for almost $10,000 off MSRP, I'd order a 2013 model. Looking around, some people here got crazy prices on the Alan 12s. Thanks for the advice..
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vdslabs7 (720hp) | Drive a mix of city and highway.
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lsufran (683hp) | I picked up the 535xi package with M Sport 2012 on Friday. I couldn't be happier.
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hedonics (17hp) | Hi everyone, I'm looking to pick up a 535xi in the next few days. Can anyone give me an idea of average MPG? I know it depends on the city/highway, I'll do about 60% city and 40% highway...just trying to get a feel for it. A reason not to buy the 2012 and order the 2013? Thank you in advance for your contribution!
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flirty1 (18hp) | Quote: Originally posted by pMart36 Hi everyone, I'm looking to pick up a 535xi in the next few days. Can anyone give me an idea of average MPG? I know it depends on the city/highway, I'll do about 60% city and 40% highway...just trying to get a feel for it. A reason not to buy the 2012 and order the 2013? Thank you in advance for your contribution! Why do you need four-wheel drive to live in San Francisco? Both wheels will get you much better MPG.
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130980 (470hp) | 23-23.5 MPG and I normally drive primarily in Comfort mode. I also drive about 70% on the highway.
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02011982 (869hp) | Quote: Posted by mspeasl Why do you need four-wheel drive to live in San Francisco? Both wheels will get you much better MPG. I spend most of the winter in Lake Tahoe. Since I'm selling my Escalade to get the 535, I need AWD. I hope to average around 23-24 mpg, which will double my current mpg with the Escalade. Spending $250-300 less on gas per month is attractive.
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80808 (439hp) | When I do a 50/50 highway/city commute, I get about 21 MPG or so.
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elisa (621hp) | I drive 80% in the city in sport mode, 40,000 km in the car, 17 mpg on average.
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billy123 (778hp) | I drive 80% in the city and 20% on the highway. I use Econo mode most of the time and get 24 mpg..
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caravan (258hp) | 2013 come with a much faster and nicer navigation system, both hardware and software. Unless you're getting a 2012 for almost $10,000 off MSRP, I'd order a 2013 model. Searching through some people here, I got some crazy prices on the Alan 12.
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6435 (582hp) | Quote: Originally posted by Alan L. 2013 comes with a much faster and nicer navigation system, both hardware and software. Unless you're getting a 2012 for almost $10,000 off MSRP, I'd order a 2013 model. Looking around, some people here got crazy prices on the Alan 12s. Thanks for the advice..
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27111994 (471hp) | Drive in the city and on the highway.
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290495 (540hp) | I picked up the 535xi package with M Sport 2012 on Friday. I couldn't be happier.
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joshua99 (49hp) | Yesterday 5 of us piled into the 5 for a trip to Harpers Ferry...on the way home we stopped for dinner. When we came back to go home, I had the message attached to the bottom of the screen. I just thought it was so hot outside that maybe a fan was running and the car had turned it off so as not to kill the battery. Unfortunately, even after driving the vehicle, stopping it, restarting it, and waiting overnight, the same message still appears. I tried calling my dealer but I don't think they have a service center open on Sundays. And now ? The car starts and runs fine, but this clearly limits the amount of electrical components that work...meaning my HVAC fans only blow at low speeds, which is a HUGE problem here in the heat and humidity of Virginia. I remember this article from a while ago, but it only addresses the problem when the car was sitting for long periods of time. In my case, I had just driven for over 2 hours... Thoughts?
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raven7 (609hp) | What is your driving behavior like? Short trips in an urban environment or something else? Do you have any external electronic devices plugged into the car like an Ipod, radar detector, cell phone chargers, etc..?
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jamies (278hp) | The car is basically split perfectly 50/50. During the week, these are short urban trips. Weekends are mainly on the highway. The only electronic device plugged in is my iPhone in the center console, which I believe has no power when the doors are closed anyway..
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cowboys23 (116hp) | Quote: Originally posted by vdubturbo The car is split pretty much perfectly 50/50. During the week, these are short urban trips. Weekends are mainly on the highway. The only electronic device plugged in is my iPhone in the center console, which I believe has no power when the doors are closed anyway. When was the car built? The battery shouldn't be dead, I would do a stink to get a new battery. (BTW, don't tell the dealer you drive this way, if they ask just say your trips are mostly highway and some urban and it's used daily.).
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fishing69 (247hp) | A new battery will not be necessary. The message tells you that something is draining the battery when the car is turned off. The E60/61 does this when some modules don't turn off properly when the car is locked, so they continue to drain the battery, causing the same message. On this model, the comfort access system of both versions and the rear hatch modules of the e61 caused the fault in the event of a breakdown. As this is a relatively new model it could be a different problem, is there something on the car not working properly or an aftermarket stereo or amps installed?
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deere1 (257hp) | I had the same problem and the car ended up needing a software update. The dealer did not have to replace the battery and did a thorough search of all systems and found nothing else out of the ordinary. This seems to have fixed the problem. I suggest you download your personal profile to a USB stick before getting in the car. There is no doubt that the dealer will likely lose most, if not all, of your preferences when working on the car..
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199800 (865hp) | The already incredibly tedious process of putting the car into operation has begun.
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staff (607hp) | I just got this message this weekend, it was because I was playing the stereo while detailing my car. I read that my car records the message. Yesterday I still had the message, I took my car for a drive, everything was working fine and I was able to get all my electrical components working. This morning the message was gone, I saw it several times because I was playing on my awesome stereo......
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Young80i (203hp) | I don't know if this is relevant, but I found the same problem with my E70 X5. Every evening we parked it in the garage, went in and the next morning it had this message on it. After research I found out that the car never fell asleep when in the garage because the key fobs were inside the house but always within range of the car. So all systems including Bluetooth, stereo, etc. basically stayed on. It's incredibly annoying, and the only way to fix the problem was to lock the car inside our garage every day so it could sleep..
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doggy4 (738hp) | I had a similar message on my old Series 3, it turned out the kids were left on on the rear reading lights, you couldn't see them during the day and it's summer so clear nights , it took me a few weeks to find the problem!
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b|ake (793hp) | So here is the dealer's response to my problem... 5451 VEHICLE IS NOT DRIVING ENOUGH W TESTED FOR FAULTS, PERFORMED AN ENERGY DIAGNOSTIC AND FOUND THE VEHICLE'S BATTERY GOOD. THE CLOSED CIRCUIT WAS OK. NO CONTROL UNITS WAKE UP. THERE IS NO DRAW. THE TEST SHOWED THE VEHICLE DRIVING SHORT DISTANCES AND NOT ALLOWING ENOUGH TIME FOR THE CHARGING SYSTEM TO FULLY CHARGE THE BATTERY. DEFECTS ELIMINATED AND RECOMMENDED THE TRICLE CHARGER TO THE CUSTOMER TO BUY. Three things: I corrected all the technician's spelling mistakes. How is it my fault if my commute to work is too short for the car? This happened after driving for almost 3 hours. Thoughts?
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ksoze (681hp) | Quote: Originally posted by vdubturbo So here is the dealer's response to my problem... 5451 VEHICLE IS NOT DRIVING ENOUGH W TESTED FOR FAULTS, PERFORMED AN ENERGY DIAGNOSTIC AND FOUND THE VEHICLE'S BATTERY TO BE GOOD. THE CLOSED CIRCUIT WAS OK. NO CONTROL UNITS WAKE UP. THERE IS NO DRAW. THE TEST SHOWED THE VEHICLE DRIVING SHORT DISTANCES AND NOT ALLOWING ENOUGH TIME FOR THE CHARGING SYSTEM TO FULLY CHARGE THE BATTERY. DEFECTS ELIMINATED AND RECOMMENDED THE TRICLE CHARGER TO THE CUSTOMER TO BUY. Three things: I corrected all the technician's spelling mistakes. How is it my fault if my commute to work is too short for the car? This happened after driving for almost 3 hours. Thoughts? Ask the dealer where in the new vehicle's lease or warranty explains what factors should be used to verify that the car has been sufficiently driven. When he can't, tell him you want to change the battery.
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snowdrop (593hp) | Yesterday 5 of us piled into the 5 for a trip to Harpers Ferry...on the way home we stopped for dinner. When we came back to go home, I had the message attached to the bottom of the screen. I just thought it was so hot outside that maybe a fan was running and the car had turned it off so as not to kill the battery. Unfortunately, even after driving the vehicle, stopping it, restarting it, and waiting overnight, the same message still appears. I tried calling my dealer but I don't think they have a service center open on Sundays. And now ? The car starts and runs fine, but this clearly limits the amount of electrical components that work...meaning my HVAC fans only blow at low speeds, which is a HUGE problem here in the heat and humidity of Virginia. I remember this article from a while ago, but it only addresses the problem when the car was sitting for long periods of time. In my case, I had just driven for over 2 hours... Thoughts?
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cheese69 (265hp) | What is your driving behavior like? Short trips in an urban environment or something else? Do you have any external electronic devices plugged into the car like an Ipod, radar detector, cell phone chargers, etc..?
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hartley (440hp) | The car is basically split perfectly 50/50. During the week, these are short urban trips. Weekends are mainly on the highway. The only electronic device plugged in is my iPhone in the center console, which I believe has no power when the doors are closed anyway..
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kitty24 (958hp) | Quote: Originally posted by vdubturbo The car is split pretty much perfectly 50/50. During the week, these are short urban trips. Weekends are mainly on the highway. The only electronic device plugged in is my iPhone in the center console, which I believe has no power when the doors are closed anyway. When was the car built? The battery shouldn't be dead, I would do a stink to get a new battery. (BTW, don't tell the dealer you drive this way, if they ask just say your trips are mostly highway and some urban and it's used daily.).
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28091981 (212hp) | A new battery will not be necessary. The message tells you that something is draining the battery when the car is turned off. The E60/61 does this when some modules don't turn off properly when the car is locked, so they continue to drain the battery, causing the same message. On this model, the comfort access system of both versions and the rear hatch modules of the e61 caused the fault in the event of a breakdown. As this is a relatively new model it could be a different problem, is there something on the car not working properly or an aftermarket stereo or amps installed?
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amavis (930hp) | I had the same problem and the car ended up needing a software update. The dealer did not have to replace the battery and did a thorough search of all systems and found nothing else out of the ordinary. This seemed to solve the problem. I suggest you download your personal profile to a USB stick before getting in the car. There is no doubt that the dealer will likely lose most, if not all, of your preferences when working on the car..
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kane12 (648hp) | The already incredibly tedious process of putting the car into operation has begun.
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maryj420 (868hp) | I just got this message this weekend, it was because I was playing the stereo while detailing my car. I read that my car records the message. Yesterday I still had the message, I took my car for a drive, everything was working fine and I was able to get all my electrical components working. This morning the message was gone, I saw it several times because I was playing on my awesome stereo......
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197901 (159hp) | I don't know if this is relevant, but I found the same problem with my E70 X5. Every evening we parked it in the garage, went in and the next morning it had this message on it. After research I found out that the car never fell asleep when in the garage because the key fobs were inside the house but always within range of the car. So all systems including Bluetooth, stereo, etc. basically stayed on. It's incredibly annoying, and the only way to fix the problem was to lock the car inside our garage every day so it could sleep..
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111008 (599hp) | I had a similar message on my old Series 3, it turned out the kids were left on on the rear reading lights, you couldn't see them during the day and it's summer so clear nights , it took me a few weeks to find the problem!
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jose01 (724hp) | So here is the dealer's response to my problem... 5451 VEHICLE IS NOT DRIVING ENOUGH W TESTED FOR FAULTS, PERFORMED AN ENERGY DIAGNOSTIC AND FOUND THE VEHICLE'S BATTERY GOOD. THE CLOSED CIRCUIT WAS OK. NO CONTROL UNITS WAKE UP. THERE IS NO DRAW. THE TEST SHOWED THE VEHICLE DRIVING SHORT DISTANCES AND NOT ALLOWING ENOUGH TIME FOR THE CHARGING SYSTEM TO FULLY CHARGE THE BATTERY. DEFECTS ELIMINATED AND RECOMMENDED THE TRICLE CHARGER TO THE CUSTOMER TO BUY. Three things: I corrected all the technician's spelling mistakes. How is it my fault if my commute to work is too short for the car? This happened after driving for almost 3 hours. Thoughts?
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veronique (125hp) | Quote: Originally posted by vdubturbo So here is the dealer's response to my problem... 5451 VEHICLE IS NOT DRIVING ENOUGH W TESTED FOR FAULTS, PERFORMED AN ENERGY DIAGNOSTIC AND FOUND THE VEHICLE'S BATTERY TO BE GOOD. THE CLOSED CIRCUIT WAS OK. NO CONTROL UNITS WAKE UP. THERE IS NO DRAW. THE TEST SHOWED THE VEHICLE DRIVING SHORT DISTANCES AND NOT ALLOWING ENOUGH TIME FOR THE CHARGING SYSTEM TO FULLY CHARGE THE BATTERY. DEFECTS ELIMINATED AND RECOMMENDED THE TRICLE CHARGER TO THE CUSTOMER TO BUY. Three things: I corrected all the technician's spelling mistakes. How is it my fault if my commute to work is too short for the car? This happened after driving for almost 3 hours. Thoughts? Ask the dealer where in the new vehicle's lease or warranty explains what factors should be used to verify that the car has been sufficiently driven. When he can't, tell him you want to change the battery.
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black1234 (831hp) | This is something new in my 2011 550i: it happens the first time someone calls, I press the button to answer via Bluetooth on my iPhone and it doesn't pick up, I have to use the idrive controller to answer . The button will hang up just fine and answer if someone else calls later in the trip, but never the first time. This is my only car that does this, has anyone had a similar problem? I have a fully loaded 550 M Sport with Nav and use current iPhone. I tried to repair the phone to no avail....
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6363 (150hp) | I have the same problem, the dealer told me that you have to hold the button for a few extra seconds to make the connection between the car and the phone. I have had some success with this method but not always. I hope this information helps.
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friday01 (71hp) | Same problem on my side, I read in one of the discussions that the latest software update should solve the problem, I downloaded the version but still not installed in my car, once done I will leave the result to you.
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bmw_dino (246hp) | I have the same problem pairing with an HTC Windows Mobile. It's getting a little boring.
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seymour1 (318hp) | Again, same problem, but not all the time. BMW Software: MX-003.005.004, TX-003.005.004 Phone: iPhone 4 iOS 5.1.1 (JBroken using Absinthe)
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bobdole (349hp) | This is something new in my 2011 550i: it happens the first time someone calls, I press the button to answer via Bluetooth on my iPhone and it doesn't pick up, I have to use the idrive controller to answer . The button will hang up just fine and answer if someone else calls later in the trip, but never the first time. This is my only car that does this, has anyone had a similar problem? I have a fully loaded 550 M Sport with Nav and use current iPhone. I tried to repair the phone to no avail....
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211192 (822hp) | I have the same problem, the dealer told me that you have to hold the button for a few extra seconds to make the connection between the car and the phone. I have had some success with this method but not always. I hope this information helps.
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xrayyou (621hp) | Same problem on my side, I read in one of the discussions that the latest software update should solve the problem, I downloaded the version but still not installed in my car, once done I will leave the result to you.
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polonia (694hp) | I have the same problem pairing with an HTC Windows Mobile. It's getting a little boring.
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shekhar (923hp) | Same problem here too, but not all the time. BMW Software: MX-003.005.004, TX-003.005.004 Phone: iPhone 4 iOS 5.1.1 (JBroken using Absinthe)
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102008 (654hp) | I purchased a 5.28 with M Sports, Premium Package, Technology Package, Comfort Access, BMW Apps, Satellite Radio and Cold Weather Package about a week ago. The MSRP was $61,825. I got it for $55,789, which is $6,000 off. Good deal? I'm starting to think I could have gotten a better deal after reading this forum.
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boiler (869hp) | I don't think it's a bad price. For reference, I just bought a '12 535i with the M Sport package and packages similar to yours for 59K. The sticker was 65. On our private car it turned out to be 1K under the invoice.
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anna777 (315hp) | I purchased a 5.28 with M Sports, Premium Package, Technology Package, Comfort Access, BMW Apps, Satellite Radio and Cold Weather Package about a week ago. The MSRP was $61,825. I got it for $55,789, which is $6,000 off. Good deal? I'm starting to think I could have gotten a better deal after reading this forum.
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3LAU (705hp) | I don't think it's a bad price. For reference, I just bought a '12 535i with the M Sport package and packages similar to yours for 59K. The sticker was 65. On our private car it turned out to be 1K under the invoice.
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061178 (772hp) | Hi, I'm a new member to bimmer post, but I've been browsing these threads for a long time now ::thump: But anyway, I ordered a 2013 528i xDrive with Premium, Safety and Advanced Navigation Packages! Metallic black sapphire and black Dakota leather! super excited to see what the new navigation system looks like! 1) I'm going to rent so I was wondering if I'm allowed to do window tents elsewhere since my dealer charges $599 2) do I need to get tire insurance? unlimited replacements for $1299 3) Lojack installed for 7 years for $999? yes/no? 4) my dealer also included a car service package for $249 and BMW incentives? what are these two? 5) Is there anything else new in 2013 that I can look forward to too? THANKS!
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jazzbass (569hp) | I work for a BMW dealership, so don't do the tints there. They/we pay the dry cleaner $75 per car, lol. Second, 3 year lease so why 7 years of LoJack, 3rd forget the tire insurance, it's a lease
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joshua99 (635hp) | Quote: Posted by bigb77 1) will be rented so I was wondering if I was allowed to do window tents elsewhere since my dealer charges $599 for his goodness sake. Do it elsewhere. $200 is the most I would spend. Quote: Posted by bigb77 2) should I take out tire insurance? unlimited replacements for $1299 No, not necessary Quote: Posted by bigb77 3) Lojack installed for 7 years for $999? yes/no? For what? Are you leasing the car for 7 years? Quote: Originally posted by bigb77 4) my dealership also included a car service package for $249 and BMW incentives? what are these two? A finger in the ass without lubricant. No phone call the next day. Quote: Posted by bigb77 5) anything else new in 2013 that I can look forward to too? THANKS! In the United States, we receive a $350 disposition fee at the end of the lease.
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Noggie (953hp) | 1) will be for rental so I was wondering if I was allowed to make window tents elsewhere as my dealer charges $599 NO. I had mine done in Mississauga for a $200 lifetime warranty. 2) should I take out tire insurance? unlimited replacements for $1,299 NO..the tires have a manufacturer warranty for the first year..the Goodyears 3) Lojack installed for 7 years for $999? yes/no? NO 4) My dealership also included a car service package for $249 and BMW incentives? what are these two? The car maintenance package is fake. Tell them you don't want it. BMW Incentives?
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bljS2v85pT (84hp) | Quote: Originally posted by bubbahead NO.. I had mine done in Mississauga for a $200 lifetime warranty. Where did you do it in Mississauga?
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softball32 (614hp) | Quote: Originally posted by bigb77 Where did you do it in Mississauga? Woodchester car. Dundas just east of Winston Churchill in the Auto Mall
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mickey23 (797hp) | Hi, I'm a new member to bimmer post, but I've been browsing these threads for a long time now ::thump: But anyway, I ordered a 2013 528i xDrive with Premium, Safety and Advanced Navigation Packages! Metallic black sapphire and black Dakota leather! super excited to see what the new navigation system looks like! 1) I'm going to rent so I was wondering if I'm allowed to do window tents elsewhere since my dealer charges $599 2) do I need to get tire insurance? unlimited replacements for $1299 3) Lojack installed for 7 years for $999? yes/no? 4) my dealer also included a car service package for $249 and BMW incentives? what are these two? 5) Is there anything else new in 2013 that I can look forward to too? THANKS!
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female (105hp) | I work for a BMW dealership, so don't do the tints there. They/we pay the dry cleaner $75 per car, lol. Second, 3 year lease so why 7 years of LoJack, 3rd forget the tire insurance, it's a lease
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220286 (673hp) | Quote: Posted by bigb77 1) will be rented so I was wondering if I was allowed to do window tents elsewhere since my dealer charges $599 for his goodness sake. Do it elsewhere. $200 is the most I would spend. Quote: Posted by bigb77 2) should I take out tire insurance? unlimited replacements for $1299 No, not necessary Quote: Posted by bigb77 3) Lojack installed for 7 years for $999? yes/no? For what? Are you leasing the car for 7 years? Quote: Originally posted by bigb77 4) my dealership also included a car service package for $249 and BMW incentives? what are these two? A finger in the ass without lubricant. No phone call the next day. Quote: Posted by bigb77 5) anything else new in 2013 that I can look forward to too? THANKS! In the United States, we receive a $350 disposition fee at the end of the lease.
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alleycat1 (997hp) | 1) will be for rental so I was wondering if I was allowed to make window tents elsewhere as my dealer charges $599 NO. I had mine done in Mississauga for a $200 lifetime warranty. 2) should I take out tire insurance? unlimited replacements for $1,299 NO..the tires have a manufacturer warranty for the first year..the Goodyears 3) Lojack installed for 7 years for $999? yes/no? NO 4) My dealership also included a car service package for $249 and BMW incentives? what are these two? The car maintenance package is fake. Tell them you don't want it. BMW Incentives?
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batman007 (334hp) | Quote: Originally posted by bubbahead NO.. I had mine done in Mississauga for a $200 lifetime warranty. Where did you do it in Mississauga?
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GordonGecko (699hp) | Quote: Originally posted by bigb77 Where did you do it in Mississauga? Woodchester car. Dundas just east of Winston Churchill in the Auto Mall
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summer1234 (687hp) | Quote: Originally posted by The X Men I don't know about you, but I don't think the brake light in front of me is annoying at all. Quote: Originally published by The X Men We have similar winter traffic here in New England, except instead of rain we have snow and ice. In which case, I'm surprised you don't find the glare somewhat annoying and distracting. PS: I almost forgot, we also get a bit of snow and ice here in Scotland .
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neviem (231hp) | Quote: Originally posted by fat dog I'm talking about being stationary and using the hand/parking/electromechanical brake, but without auto hold engaged. In this situation and with the foot released from the pedal, the brake lights will not come on, regardless of the position in which the gear lever is located. I posted to demonstrate that, for example, it is possible to sit at a traffic light with the car gone in D and the brake lights are not on (and thus causing glare for the driver behind). You can then start normally by simply pressing the accelerator without having to release the hand/parking/electromechanical brake, because this happens automatically and imperceptibly... This afternoon I parked the car with the rear facing a glass window plate, so I had a good view of its reflection and noted the following: - 1. With the car in D and being held in automatic hold with the foot released from the brake , the brake lights remain on. 2. Still in D, but maintained by manually activating the parking brake, the lights turn off as soon as you release the brake pedal. So 1 and 2 are as you say correctly. However, my car does not react as you explain with the handbrake manually applied. Under these conditions, it does not start normally by simply pressing the accelerator without having to release the hand/parking/electromechanical brake. When I tried this there was no throttle response when pressing the accelerator, the warning gong sounded and there was a warning legend stating that the parking brake should be applied. loosened, which, of course, required operating the brake pedal before pressing the handbrake release switch - not quite automatic and unnoticeable. So it seems to be a choice between an easy and smooth stop-start with the brake lights permanently on when stopping, or the case of having to manually apply the handbrake then release the brake pedal, apply the brake pedal again. brake pedal and press the handbrake release before you can drive away. Looks like I'm going to stick with the first option and civility be damned.
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http (769hp) | Quote: Originally posted by Jon D or a case where you have to manually apply the handbrake, then release the footbrake, reapply the footbrake, and press the handbrake before you can drive away. I'm tired just reading this
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islamic (818hp) | Quote: Originally posted by Jon D This afternoon I parked the car with the rear facing a window, so I had a good view of its reflection and noted the following: - 1. With the car in D and held in automatic hold with the foot released from the brake, the brake lights remain on. 2. Still in D, but maintained by manually activating the parking brake, the lights turn off as soon as you release the brake pedal. So 1 and 2 are as you say correctly. However, my car does not react as you explain with the handbrake manually applied. Under these conditions, it does not start normally by simply pressing the accelerator without having to release the hand/parking/electromechanical brake. When I tried this there was no throttle response when pressing the accelerator, the warning gong sounded and there was a warning legend stating that the parking brake should be applied. loosened, which, of course, required operating the brake pedal before pressing the handbrake release switch - not quite automatic and unnoticeable. So it seems to be a choice between easy and smooth stop-start with the brake lights permanently on when stopping, or the case where you have to manually apply the handbrake then release the brake pedal, apply again the brake pedal and press the handbrake release before you can drive away. Looks like I'm going to stick with the first option and civility be damned. Thanks for checking this out. The brake lights are then on!
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ABUSE_123456_ABUSE (960hp) | Quote: Originally posted by Jon D In that case, I'm surprised you don't find the glare somewhat annoying and distracting. PS: I almost forgot, we also get a bit of snow and ice here in Scotland. It's the idiots with their rear fog lights on that annoy me
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ursula (2hp) | Quote: Posted by arnsbrae ... The brake lights are on then! This is not the case, my friend. Have faith and ignore the ever-increasing amount of misinformation that falls into this thread. Quote: Originally posted by Jon D ...However, my car does not respond as you explain with the handbrake manually applied. Under these conditions, it does not start normally by simply pressing the accelerator without having to release the hand/parking/electromechanical brake. When I tried this there was no throttle response when pressing the accelerator, the warning gong sounded and there was a warning legend that the parking brake should be applied. loosened, which, of course, required operating the brake pedal before pressing the handbrake release switch - not quite automatic and unnoticeable. I bet it's because you haven't replicated the situation I described. I imagine P was used somewhere in your sequence. Shifting from P to D (for example when first starting the car in the morning and driving away) requires a manual release of the handbrake, otherwise you get the warning bang and message. However, I have described stopping at a traffic light without the auto hold engaged and leaving the car in D. Once stopped at the lights, the handbrake is applied, after which the pedal brake is released (and at no time is the gear lever touched). Starting then only requires a slight touch of the accelerator and the handbrake is released automatically and imperceptibly. I do this probably twenty or thirty times a day and I've been doing it for five months. Moreover, high-end Audis have also had this feature for at least five years...
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241092 (704hp) | Quote: Posted by fat dog ...One thing I haven't tried is allowing the auto hold to engage, then applying the hand/parking/electromechanical brake and releasing the pedal. Will the lights be on or off? If anyone is still interested/following this I can report as follows having tried this on the way home this evening. With auto hold enabled, I let the car stop and auto hold engage. I then applied the handbrake and found that the auto hold was not only disengaged, but completely disabled. The manual/manual agrees with this. However, somewhat surprisingly, there was actually a slight thud and shudder when the applied brakes switched to electromechanical brakes (acting only on the rear wheels of course). Although this then allows the car to be held without the brake lights being on, it is far from smooth and impractical, as the automatic hold would have to be reactivated..
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bungie (443hp) | Quote: Posted by fat dog Not so my friend. Have faith and ignore the ever-increasing amount of misinformation that falls into this thread. I bet it's because you haven't replicated the situation I described. I imagine P was used somewhere in your sequence. Shifting from P to D (for example when first starting the car in the morning and driving away) requires a manual release of the handbrake, otherwise you get the warning bang and message. However, I have described stopping at a traffic light without the auto hold engaged and leaving the car in D. Once stopped at the lights, the handbrake is applied, after which the pedal brake is released (and at no time is the gear lever touched). Starting then only requires a slight touch of the accelerator and the handbrake is released automatically and imperceptibly. I do this probably twenty or thirty times a day and I've been doing it for five months. Moreover, high-end Audis have also had this feature for at least five years. At no point in my previous tests did I touch the gear lever, it remained in D the entire way and, to reiterate my previous statement, the throttle was inactive until I pressed the release of the handbrake, which first required reapplying the brake pedal. I can only think that the difference between our cars could be due to variations in engines, transmissions or production dates - my car is a September 2010 535d with sport auto transmission..
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zxcvbnm3 (460hp) | It seems to me that the best option is to leave the automatic lock and press the electromechanical handbrake when stopping at lights. (Leaving the car in D). No brake light and no delayed start. But first I'll sneaky practice on my commute'...
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account123 (459hp) | Quote: Originally posted by arnsbrae It seems to me that the best option is to leave the automatic lock on and apply the electromechanical handbrake when stopping at lights. (Leaving the car in D). No brake light and no delayed start. I'm going to sneakily practice my ride first... I'll be interested to know if your system works like the "big dog" F11, in that it automatically releases on startup, or if it's the same as my F10, which has dead gas until you step on the brake pedal and manually release the handbrake first. Please publish your findings.
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19821984 (232hp) | Quote: Posted by gspannu Try this on a typical UK winter day, rush hour traffic, 5:30pm, already dark, slow steady rain, drizzle... and the brake lights are starting to get annoying. I think you're more annoyed by the fact that you're stuck in traffic instead of being a guy out front with the brake lights on..
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rockout (111hp) | For me, I think the Auto H system works as expected. The main function of Auto H is to help you brake when your car is stationary rather than using your foot. Think of it this way, you are driving a car without the auto H function. You are in traffic with your foot on the brake, brake lights on. You use your handbrake to replace the brake pedal, brake lights off. No matter what position you are in.
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15121984 (648hp) | Quote: Originally posted by Jon D I would be interested to know if your system works like the "big dog" F11, in that it fires automatically on startup, or if it is the same as my F10 , which has a dead throttle until you press the brake pedal and manually release the handbrake beforehand. Please publish your findings. No problem Jon, but my car only arrived in the UK this week so I probably won't see it until next week. On reflection it seems strange that pressing the accelerator releases the handbrake..
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08101980 (73hp) | Quote: Originally posted by Jon D I would be interested to know if your system works like the "big dog" F11, in that it fires automatically on startup, or if it is the same as my F10 , which has a dead throttle until you press the brake pedal and manually release the handbrake beforehand. Please publish your findings. To participate, if I have applied the handbrake manually, I must also release it manually (Depress the brake and press the handbrake button). I drove an older version of the A6 and they automatically release the handbrake for you and they also have the automatic H function. Let me try my friend's A5 and I'll tell you the results when I get a chance.
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