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| 141989 (49hp) | If this were me and it bothered me (and I'm sure it would), I would just have the tint on that window removed and reinstalled.
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| 11011994 (890hp) | Quote: Originally posted by wrickem If this were me and it bothered me (and I'm sure it would), I would just have the tint on that window removed and reinstalled. I laughed a lot when I read this, I would be too. You can't unsee something like that once you see it and know it's there. It would drive me crazy every time I looked, I would definitely replace it. Unfortunately there is no good advice for OP other than replacing it and moving on.
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| 13071981 (289hp) | Agreed. Just have it replaced. Won't be too expensive.
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| abby07 (968hp) | Thanks everyone, but more to the story... The dealer previously damaged the door sill leather. When the windows were previously retinted, the previously repaired leather was “stained.” Had a lot of back and forth with the dealer but they finally resolved it. Therefore I don't want to take the risk of re-toning the leather and damaging it again if this can be avoided.
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| docrafts (386hp) | Quote: Originally written by dbs600 Thanks everyone, but more to the story... The dealer previously damaged the door sill leather. When the windows were previously retinted, the previously repaired leather was “stained.” Had a lot of back and forth with the dealer but they finally resolved it. Therefore I don't want to take the risk of re-toning the leather and damaging it again if this can be avoided. The only thing I've ever heard of to repair scratches with tint is this, quoted on a car care website: Tinted window films that have been scratched can be polished with cleaners designed for vinyl windows, which are common on convertible tops are found. The product I recommend for polishing and regular maintenance of tinted window film is McKee's 37 Plex All. Plex All comes in an aerosol spray can and is safe to use on plastic, plexiglass and tinted window films. In addition to polishing your tinted window film, Plex All is great for your taillight and headlight covers. I don't have any concrete proof that this works in your case, but it's possible that polishing it with this type of product will make a difference. I also think that any competent tinting workshop can re-tint the window very cheaply and without damaging the leather. I have had my cars tinted at least 10 times and have never had any problems with interior damage. Take a photo of your vehicle's interior when you drop off the car. This way you can't argue about any damage
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| bicicleta (66hp) | Quote: Originally posted by thebmwjunkiee The only thing I've ever heard about tinting for repairing scratches is the following, quoted from a car care website: Tinted window films that have been scratched can be polished with cleaning products designed for the common Vinyl windows were developed on convertible tops. The product I recommend for polishing and regular maintenance of tinted window film is McKee's 37 Plex All. Plex All comes in an aerosol spray can and is safe to use on plastic, plexiglass and tinted window films. In addition to polishing your tinted window film, Plex All is great for your taillight and headlight covers. I don't have any concrete proof that this works in your case, but it's possible that polishing it with this type of product will make a difference. I also think that any competent tinting workshop can re-tint the window very cheaply and without damaging the leather. I have had my cars tinted at least 10 times and have never had any problems with interior damage. Take a photo of the leather trim on your interior when you drop off the car. This means there is no dispute about any damage. Thank you for finding and posting this! The product has some great reviews: https://www.amazon.com/product-reviews/B000HG8ZJ0 If I buy and try it, I'll definitely update everyone here. Otherwise, I believe that the part of the leather that was previously repaired (twice) will be damaged again if exposed to a lot of water, which I think is necessary with window tints, which I doubt. Thanks again! Much appreciated.
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| paper2 (244hp) | Quote: Originally written by dbs600 Thanks for finding and posting this! The product has some great reviews: https://www.amazon.com/product-reviews/B000HG8ZJ0 If I buy and try it, I'll definitely update everyone here. Otherwise, I believe that the part of the leather that was previously repaired (twice) will be damaged again if exposed to a lot of water, which I think is necessary with window tints, which I doubt. Thanks again! Much appreciated. No problem at all. Like I said, I have no experience with window tinting, but that's pretty much the only thing I could find in my search. Anyway, I hope it's useful in the end. Be sure to post a review thread if you decide to give it a try!
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| valya.korobeynik (329hp) | Quote: Originally posted by thebmwjunkiee No problem at all. Like I said, I have no experience with window tinting, but that's pretty much the only thing I could find in my search. Anyway, I hope it's useful in the end. Be sure to post a review thread if you decide to give it a try!
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| 26111979 (848hp) | I'm thinking about getting a 2014 or 2015 535i. I know the question is a bit difficult to answer, but does anyone know if there were any major model changes in 2015 that would justify adopting this year compared to 2014? Thank you.
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| dave22 (921hp) | There are no significant differences between a 14 and a 15, aside from obvious differences in actual trim options. You can select a 14 and remove a 15 or vice versa. The cars themselves are virtually identical except for the production date.
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| limewire1 (481hp) | If you're looking for non-lease cars, the 2014 gives you a lot more choice. I just bought one myself a few months ago.
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| call (417hp) | Quote: Originally posted by es1 I'm thinking about using the 535i in 2014 or 2015. I know the question is a bit difficult to answer, but does anyone know if there were any major model changes in 2015 that would justify adopting this year compared to 2014? Thank you. Not much in terms of looks, but perhaps the biggest change from a feature perspective is the addition of advanced Bluetooth functionality as standard. In the 2014 model year and before, you needed the standalone option for Office features, but this model year made it standard. If you want the option to send text messages (or email, depending on your Samsung phone), it's required unless you find a 2014 device that already has the option included. Good luck!
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| amistad (411hp) | Quote: Originally posted by Meast Quote: Originally posted by es1 I'm looking for a used 2014 or 2015 535i. I know this is a bit hard to answer, but does anyone know if there were any major model changes in 2015 that justify adopting this year compared to 2014? Thank you. Not much in terms of looks, but perhaps the biggest change from a feature perspective is the addition of advanced Bluetooth functionality as standard. In the 2014 model year and before, you needed the standalone option for Office features, but this model year made it standard. If you want the option to send text messages (or email, depending on your Samsung phone), it's required unless you find a 2014 device that already has the option included. Good luck! Or just have it coded after purchase.
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| iiiiiii (509hp) | I believe if you purchase the M Sport package, the suspension is included for both years. Just make sure the production date of the package you purchase is not late 2013. Maybe someone can correct me if I'm wrong.
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| insurance1 (89hp) | No difference. Save money and get this 2014.
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| 190291 (325hp) | Quote: Originally posted by Mbbrewer No difference. Save money and get the 2014. As I can see, neither the 2014 nor 2015 have blind spot monitoring, emergency braking, and programmable cruise control with automatic braking
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| rocket123 (866hp) | I'm thinking about getting a 2014 or 2015 535i. I know the question is a bit difficult to answer, but does anyone know if there were any major model changes in 2015 that would justify adopting this year compared to 2014? Thank you.
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| chakkara (120hp) | There are no significant differences between a 14 and a 15, aside from obvious differences in actual trim options. You can select a 14 and remove a 15 or vice versa. The cars themselves are virtually identical except for the production date.
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| killer33 (274hp) | If you're looking for non-lease cars, the 2014 gives you a lot more choice. I bought one myself a few months ago.
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| 4weaxQ642E (421hp) | Quote: Originally posted by es1 I'm thinking about using the 535i in 2014 or 2015. I know the question is a bit difficult to answer, but does anyone know if there were any major model changes in 2015 that would justify adopting this year compared to 2014? Thank you. Not much in terms of looks, but perhaps the biggest change from a feature perspective is the addition of advanced Bluetooth functionality as standard. In the 2014 model year and before, you needed the standalone option for Office features, but this model year made it standard. If you want the option to send text messages (or email, depending on your Samsung phone), it's required unless you find a 2014 device that already has the option included. Good luck!
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| sonu1234 (195hp) | Quote: Originally posted by Meast Quote: Originally posted by es1 I'm looking for a used 2014 or 2015 535i. I know this is a bit hard to answer, but does anyone know if there were any major model changes in 2015 that justify adopting this year compared to 2014? Thank you. Not much in terms of looks, but perhaps the biggest change from a feature perspective is the addition of advanced Bluetooth functionality as standard. In the 2014 model year and before, you needed the standalone option for Office features, but this model year made it standard. If you want the option to send text messages (or email, depending on your Samsung phone), it's required unless you find a 2014 device that already has the option included. Good luck! Or just have it coded after purchase.
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| checking1 (344hp) | I believe if you purchase the M Sport package, the suspension is included for both years. Just make sure the production date of the package you purchase is not late 2013. Maybe someone can correct me if I'm wrong.
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| pampers (896hp) | No difference. Save money and get this 2014.
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| Living (905hp) | Quote: Originally posted by Mbbrewer No difference. Save money and get the 2014. As I can see, neither the 2014 nor 2015 have blind spot monitoring, emergency braking, and programmable cruise control with automatic braking
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| 600078 (775hp) | I knew BMWs were bulletproof, but I didn't mean that literally. https://pjmedia.com/news-and-politic...save-70-lives/
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| cute.tom (873hp) | I knew BMWs were bulletproof, but I didn't mean that literally. https://pjmedia.com/news-and-politic...save-70-lives/
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| july2801! (146hp) | Hello guys, I have read some horror stories from some buyers who sent the money to some sellers and never received the item back. I myself recently experienced the same thing, so I thought, why not start a main thread and keep everything about these bastards in one place? So, let me start the list. 1. Alpinewhitem3 (more: http://f10.5post.com/forums/showthre...4#post20795814) 2. martin101 (more: http://f30.bimmerpost.com/forums/sho....php ?t=1318991) If you experienced the same, please add this bastard to the list and share more
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| plato (72hp) | Quote: Originally written by Clutchmaster Hello guys, I have read some horror stories from some buyers who sent the money to some sellers and never received the item back. I myself recently experienced the same thing, so I thought, why not start a main thread and keep everything about these bastards in one place? So, let me start the list. 1. Alpinewhitem3 (more: http://f10.5post.com/forums/showthre...4#post20795814) 2. martin101 (more: http://f30.bimmerpost.com/forums/sho....php ?t=1318991) If you experienced the same, please add this bastard to the list and share more. Good reputation. Bastards.
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| joker6 (793hp) | Alpinewhitem3 just reposted his M5 silencer scam in the NY/NJ/PA section
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| sca (554hp) | Just follow it thread by thread and warn people. At some point he will disappear.
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| 010481 (540hp) | BUMP to stay alive
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| 134652 (357hp) | Quote: Originally posted by Merciless58 BUMP to stay alive BUMP2!
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| uIS9Zdgysn (727hp) | Hello guys, I have read some horror stories from some buyers who sent the money to some sellers and never received the item back. I myself recently experienced the same thing, so I thought, why not start a main thread and keep everything about these bastards in one place? So, let me start the list. 1. Alpinewhitem3 (more: http://f10.5post.com/forums/showthre...4#post20795814) 2. martin101 (more: http://f30.bimmerpost.com/forums/sho....php ?t=1318991) If you experienced the same, please add this bastard to the list and share more
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| Benjamin1 (614hp) | Quote: Originally written by Clutchmaster Hello guys, I have read some horror stories from some buyers who sent the money to some sellers and never received the item back. I myself recently experienced the same thing, so I thought, why not start a main thread and keep everything about these bastards in one place? So, let me start the list. 1. Alpinewhitem3 (more: http://f10.5post.com/forums/showthre...4#post20795814) 2. martin101 (more: http://f30.bimmerpost.com/forums/sho....php ?t=1318991) If you experienced the same, please add this bastard to the list and share more. Good reputation. Bastards.
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| Pakistan1 (554hp) | Alpinewhitem3 just reposted his M5 silencer scam in the NY/NJ/PA section
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| colts21 (757hp) | Just follow it thread by thread and warn people. At some point he will disappear.
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| Gjm127 (899hp) | BUMP to stay alive
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| porche911 (928hp) | Quote: Originally posted by Merciless58 BUMP to stay alive BUMP2!
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| 06041979 (324hp) | I was wondering if anyone here can confirm this M4 style bumper on the F10. Is this website fake or can I trust it and spend $4,000 on a new kit? Thanks.
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| buscagli (38hp) | Quote: Originally written by HarinderG. I was wondering if anyone here can confirm this M4 style bumper on the F10. Is this website fake or can I trust it and spend $4,000 on a new kit? Thanks. Prior Design is real, I'm not sure about Magna Tuning. I have never heard of it nor have I ever seen such a kit for these cars.
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| akinola (10hp) | Looks fantastic! But that's it... Personally, I'd steer clear, buddy. Duralex is rubbish and from the looks of it this bumper is poor quality. These are two different bumpers molded into one and I bet the assembly will be a noticeable eye candy that will make you shudder every time you look at your car. Take a closer look at the corner where the bumper meets the wheel well. That alone scared me lol. Save your money and spend it on a set that is at least made of polypropylene.
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| freak69 (642hp) | Quote: Originally written by HarinderG. I was wondering if anyone here can confirm this M4 style bumper on the F10. Is this website fake or can I trust it and spend $4,000 on a new kit? Thanks. This looks fantastic.
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| abacab (950hp) | Quote: Originally posted by Sunny 528i Looks great! But that's it... Personally, I'd steer clear, buddy. Duralex is rubbish and from the looks of it this bumper is poor quality. These are two different bumpers molded into one and I bet the assembly will be a noticeable eye candy that will make you shudder every time you look at your car. Take a closer look at the corner where the bumper meets the wheel well. That alone scared me lol. Save your money and spend it on a set that is at least made of polypropylene. Really looks more like a rendering/Photoshop than an actual representation.
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| namita (653hp) | Yeah, I don't think I'd be willing to spend over $1,800 on a Duraflex replica bumper. I can't say how bad the fit will be, especially since no one here has tried it yet. I would stick with something that has a better track record and hopefully a lower price
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| heyhey11 (683hp) | I would rock it, but not if it was made of fiberglass! Even if it was PU, I don't think I could spend $1,000 on it?
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| dima1993 (406hp) | You can just buy an M4 bumper, take it to a shop, and have it custom installed and painted for probably less than $4,000 ...
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| tadaka (80hp) | It's funny that the figure lists all F10s except M5, and in my opinion that's what the photo shows... The connecting line between the hood and the bumper doesn't seem to match the contour. Either it's a poor photo-edited rendering, or it's actually a real photo... with serious fit issues.
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| 200578 (418hp) | But it looks good, also applies to f10
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| 11111qqqqq (235hp) | Mike has more pictures of it in his Sema thread, but it looks like it also has wide fender flares, which just ruins the overall look.
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| chris87 (147hp) | https://cdn2.bigcommerce.com/server6...g?t=1478546151.
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| dakota98 (755hp) | Quote: Originally posted by lsturbointeg Mike has more pictures of it in his Sema thread, but it looks like it also has wide fender flares, which just ruins the overall look. Do you have the link to the pictures?
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| aaa1234 (891hp) | Quote: Originally posted by HarinderG. Do you have the link to the pictures? Looks like he deleted a few of his pictures. I only found one, but from the rear shot
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| thereon (530hp) | I was wondering if anyone here can confirm this M4 style bumper on the F10. Is this website fake or can I trust it and spend $4,000 on a new kit? Thanks.
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| ilovebilly (722hp) | Quote: Originally written by HarinderG. I was wondering if anyone here can confirm this M4 style bumper on the F10. Is this website fake or can I trust it and spend $4,000 on a new kit? Thanks. Prior Design is real, I'm not sure about Magna Tuning. I have never heard of it nor have I ever seen such a kit for these cars.
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| avangard (309hp) | Looks fantastic! But that's it... Personally, I'd steer clear, buddy. Duralex is rubbish and from the looks of it this bumper is poor quality. These are two different bumpers molded into one and I bet the assembly will be a noticeable eye candy that will make you shudder every time you look at your car. Take a closer look at the corner where the bumper meets the wheel well. That alone scared me lol. Save your money and spend it on a set that is at least made of polypropylene.
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| taylor24 (643hp) | Quote: Originally written by HarinderG. I was wondering if anyone here can confirm this M4 style bumper on the F10. Is this website fake or can I trust it and spend $4,000 on a new kit? Thanks. This looks fantastic.
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| mamo4ka (209hp) | Quote: Originally posted by Sunny 528i Looks great! But that's it... Personally, I'd steer clear, buddy. Duralex is rubbish and from the looks of it this bumper is poor quality. These are two different bumpers molded into one and I bet the assembly will be a noticeable eye candy that will make you shudder every time you look at your car. Take a closer look at the corner where the bumper meets the wheel well. That alone scared me lol. Save your money and spend it on a set that is at least made of polypropylene. Really looks more like a rendering/Photoshop than an actual representation.
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| 852456852456 (421hp) | Yeah, I don't think I'd be willing to spend over $1,800 on a Duraflex replica bumper. I can't say how bad the fit will be, especially since no one here has tried it yet. I would stick with something that has a better track record and hopefully a lower price
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| 081292 (196hp) | I would rock it, but not if it was made of fiberglass! Even if it was PU, I don't think I could spend $1,000 on it?
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| badboys (462hp) | You can just buy an M4 bumper, take it to a shop, and have it custom installed and painted for probably less than $4,000 ...
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| 1johnny (68hp) | It's funny that the figure lists all F10s except M5, and in my opinion that's what the photo shows... The connecting line between the hood and the bumper doesn't seem to match the contour. Either it's a poor photo-edited rendering, or it's actually a real photo... with serious fit issues.
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| cals (437hp) | But it looks good, also applies to f10
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| buddie (708hp) | Mike has more pictures of it in his Sema thread, but it looks like it also has wide fender flares, which just ruins the overall look.
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| 03 (18hp) | https://cdn2.bigcommerce.com/server6...g?t=1478546151.
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| alpha5 (955hp) | Quote: Originally posted by lsturbointeg Mike has more pictures of it in his Sema thread, but it looks like it also has wide fender flares, which just ruins the overall look. Do you have the link to the pictures?
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| dong (363hp) | Quote: Originally posted by HarinderG. Do you have the link to the pictures? Looks like he deleted a few of his pictures. I only found one, but from the rear shot
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| andyrp (89hp) | In short, basically the aftermarket rear bumper was converted back to original condition by Mtech to sell the car. Since I currently have an M5 diffuser, I need to reattach an OE rear bumper/diffuser to mount the OE muffler. I know aftermarket Mtech stuff is a little different than OE Msport bumpers so I just wanted to see if anyone happened to have to do this. The car was originally a base model.
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| M40i4me (73hp) | Almost certainly not, the aftermarket M-Tech bumpers are never compatible with an OEM diffuser or front lip or an aftermarket diffuser or lip designed for OEM My-Tech. Sorry, buddy
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| 120989 (532hp) | I highly doubt it, the aftermarket is always a little off. No one can really give you a concrete answer unless they have the same aftermarket bumper from the same mold. Do you just trade it in at the dealer? However, it might fit well enough to pass inspection if that's all that matters.
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| settle (9hp) | Thanks guys. I'm planning on selling it to Carmax so maybe they won't be too picky. Bought the wife an X5, so the F10 has to go
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| csilla (559hp) | it will be a stroke of luck!
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| cool24 (868hp) | In short, basically the aftermarket rear bumper was converted back to original condition by Mtech to sell the car. Since I currently have an M5 diffuser, I need to reattach an OE rear bumper/diffuser to mount the OE muffler. I know aftermarket Mtech stuff is a little different than OE Msport bumpers so I just wanted to see if anyone happened to have to do this. The car was originally a base model.
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| nikita2001 (392hp) | Almost certainly not, the aftermarket M-Tech bumpers are never compatible with an OEM diffuser or front lip or an aftermarket diffuser or lip designed for OEM My-Tech. Sorry, buddy
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| 3rjs1la7qe (297hp) | I highly doubt it, the aftermarket is always a bit off. No one can really give you a concrete answer unless they have the same aftermarket bumper from the same mold. Do you just trade it in at the dealer? However, it might fit well enough to pass inspection if that's all that matters.
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| an1234 (897hp) | Thanks guys. I'm planning on selling it to Carmax so maybe they won't be too picky. Bought the wife an X5, so the F10 has to go
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| happy16 (946hp) | it will be a stroke of luck!
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| lucile (495hp) | Hi everyone, I'm working on the N63 engine (replacing turbo coolant lines) and when I took it apart I discovered that I need to replace the driver's side crankcase breather. What I can't figure out is how to get to the bottom of the crankcase breather tube (#2 in the attached picture). It's on the side of the engine and even my daughter's hand can't fit between the engine and the wheel well. I'm sure there should be a reasonably easy way, any recommendations? Thanks, Vadim PS: I'm sorry to post the post from the 7er forum (http://www.bimmerfest.com/forums/sho...d.php?t=936509), but I'm really trying to find an answer, and there are many knowledgeable people on this forum .
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| superjunior (4hp) | Please post it back when you figure this out. I assumed they would have to be installed from below, but I didn't have the time to test the theory. Mounting from above may be possible using hose pliers?
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| malboro1 (619hp) | I was able to reach someone on another forum about this and he sent it to me. https://drive.google.com/open?id=0B8...VKbWE3dTgzNmNv You need a Google account to see the link from my Gdrive. Have fun, it doesn't seem as easy as I thought, I still haven't tackled this yet ...
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| scroll1 (943hp) | Quote: Originally posted by imdownunder Please post back when you figure this out. I assumed they would have to be installed from below, but I didn't have the time to test the theory. Is it possible to mount it from above using hose pliers? You don't have to go under the car to remove the vent pipe. I got a recommendation from bmwtechitian https://bmwtechnician.com/2015/11/14...-care-package/ (in the comments) so I got 20 screwdrivers (https://www.amazon. com/gp). /product/B0002RI8MI/) and after 10 minutes of trying to figure out how to get there, it worked as described. You can pin the work light and then you can actually see the end of the tube. You have to break off two pieces, the outside one is easy, the inside one is a little more difficult. After breaking it off to pull the tube out, I tied a fishing line to the end and pulled with it. When you put the tube back in, use the same screwdriver to push it in until you hear a click. I had to loosen a trace of spark plug wires (I'm not sure exactly what it's called) but didn't have to remove it to insert a new tube. Vadim. PS: If you only have a problem with the vent pipes, the dealer should replace them free of charge, see https://www.bimmerfest.com/forums/sh...php?p=9463502
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| jessie69 (284hp) | Quote: Originally posted by 550Reasons I was able to reach someone on another forum about this and he sent this to me. https://drive.google.com/open?id=0B8...VKbWE3dTgzNmNv You need a Google account to see the link from my Gdrive. Have fun, doesn't seem as easy as I thought, I still haven't tackled this yet... very nice summary, shame I didn't have it sooner. There seems to be a number of unnecessary steps. My original questions and answers relate to step #25 and #31.
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| ashley98 (498hp) | Quote: Originally posted by kutsyy PS: If you only have a problem with the vent pipes, the dealer should replace them for free, see https://www.bimmerfest.com/forums/sh....php?p=9463502 Really? ?? Wtf They told me they were used, tried to use my 3rd party warranty but said no because it was wear and tear and BMW wanted $1100 for it. My car only has 56,000 miles. I have a friend who is a consultant about three hours away. I will call him and would be happy to drive there to have the problem taken care of free of charge. If that's the case, I'll mention it to him. SI B01 12 15 N63 Connecting line hoses for engine crankcase ventilation: Limited extended warranty to 10 years/120,000 miles
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| 26061985 (261hp) | I spoke to my advisor and he said that the build date of my car does not fall within the extended warranty period
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| thisis (905hp) | Hi everyone, I'm working on the N63 engine (replacing turbo coolant lines) and when I took it apart I discovered that I need to replace the driver's side crankcase breather. What I can't figure out is how to get to the bottom of the crankcase breather tube (#2 in the attached picture). It's on the side of the engine and even my daughter's hand can't fit between the engine and the wheel well. I'm sure there should be a reasonably easy way, any recommendations? Thanks, Vadim PS: I'm sorry to post the post from the 7er forum (http://www.bimmerfest.com/forums/sho...d.php?t=936509), but I'm really trying to find an answer, and there are many knowledgeable people on this forum .
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| asdfqwer1 (596hp) | Please post it back when you figure this out. I assumed they would have to be installed from below, but I didn't have the time to test the theory. Mounting from above may be possible using hose pliers?
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| dave (243hp) | I was able to reach someone on another forum about this and he sent it to me. https://drive.google.com/open?id=0B8...VKbWE3dTgzNmNv You need a Google account to see the link from my Gdrive. Have fun, it doesn't seem as easy as I thought, I still haven't tackled this yet ...
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| tgame80 (601hp) | Quote: Originally posted by imdownunder Please post back when you figure this out. I assumed they would have to be installed from below, but I didn't have the time to test the theory. Is it possible to mount it from above using hose pliers? You don't have to go under the car to remove the vent pipe. I got a recommendation from bmwtechitian https://bmwtechnician.com/2015/11/14...-care-package/ (in the comments) so I got 20 screwdrivers (https://www.amazon. com/gp). /product/B0002RI8MI/) and after 10 minutes of trying to figure out how to get there, it worked as described. You can pin the work light and then you can actually see the end of the tube. You have to break off two pieces, the outside one is easy, the inside one is a little more difficult. After breaking it off to pull the tube out, I tied a fishing line to the end and pulled with it. When you put the tube back in, use the same screwdriver to push it in until you hear a click. I had to loosen a trace of spark plug wires (I'm not sure exactly what it's called) but didn't have to remove it to insert a new tube. Vadim. PS: If you only have a problem with the vent pipes, the dealer should replace them free of charge, see https://www.bimmerfest.com/forums/sh...php?p=9463502
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| hola123456 (544hp) | Quote: Originally posted by 550Reasons I was able to reach someone on another forum about this and he sent this to me. https://drive.google.com/open?id=0B8...VKbWE3dTgzNmNv You need a Google account to see the link from my Gdrive. Have fun, doesn't seem as easy as I thought, I still haven't tackled this yet... very nice summary, shame I didn't have it sooner. There seems to be a number of unnecessary steps. My original questions and answers relate to step #25 and #31.
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| e90_2_f80 (893hp) | Quote: Originally posted by kutsyy PS: If you only have a problem with the vent pipes, the dealer should replace them for free, see https://www.bimmerfest.com/forums/sh....php?p=9463502 Really? ?? Wtf They told me they were used, tried to use my 3rd party warranty but said no because it was wear and tear and BMW wanted $1100 for it. My car only has 56,000 miles. I have a friend who is a consultant about three hours away. I will call him and would be happy to drive there to have the problem taken care of free of charge. If that's the case, I'll mention it to him. SI B01 12 15 N63 Connecting line hoses for engine crankcase ventilation: Limited extended warranty to 10 years/120,000 miles
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| cjdthitycndj (84hp) | I spoke to my advisor and he said that the build date of my car does not fall within the extended warranty period
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| elmwood (67hp) | Well, my 2013 535 M Sport with 42,000 miles has been in the shop for two weeks this Friday. I let it in because the air conditioner wasn't blowing out cold air. Two days later they discovered a leak around two of the seals. They also said I heard a loud ticking/rattling noise from the engine when starting and that they would replace the HPFP. I had them check out this strange noise coming from the transmission when reversing (a whistling/whining sound). They called me yesterday and said they were amazed and they recorded the audio and sent it to the high tech people at BMW??? Curious if anyone has had the same noise and knows where it comes from.
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| dude (442hp) | After two weeks I received a call from my S/A and she informed me that the noise the car makes when reversing (a whistling/whining sound) is normal. She stated that a TECH rep would be visiting the dealer at a later date (date unknown) and that she would contact me to return the car so the TECH rep could take a look. So I'll pick up my car tomorrow.
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| JoeyFiasco (625hp) | Thanks for following up ---- I'm waiting for the final report.
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| escobar929 (876hp) | Well, my 2013 535 M Sport with 42,000 miles has been in the shop for two weeks this Friday. I let it in because the air conditioner wasn't blowing out cold air. Two days later they discovered a leak around two of the seals. They also said I heard a loud ticking/rattling noise from the engine when starting and that they would replace the HPFP. I had them check out this strange noise coming from the transmission when reversing (a whistling/whining sound). They called me yesterday and said they were amazed, they recorded the audio and sent it to the high tech people at BMW??? Curious if anyone has had the same noise and knows where it comes from.
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| goober (263hp) | After two weeks I received a call from my S/A and she told me that the noise the car makes when reversing (a whistling/whining sound) is normal. She stated that a TECH rep would be visiting the dealer at a later date (date unknown) and that she would contact me to return the car so the TECH rep could take a look. So I'll pick up my car tomorrow.
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| 1404 (939hp) | Thanks for following up ---- I'm waiting for the final report.
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| 16091990 (796hp) | Hello, my warranty for the BMX 528i Xdrive 2012 ends in December this year. My brake pad has never been changed, the car has 36,000 miles on it, the other day the brake light came on, and then I turned the technician off and restarted and never had the light again, but I scheduled a service appointment at the dealer that tomorrow, about everything to check. Here is my question about the brake pads: Do they even replace all 4 brake pads or do they just replace what is needed? Maybe there are 2 in the front? Also the tires have never been replaced, I'm thinking about ordering the Continental - Contiprocontact SSR 225/55R17-97V Runflat, a friend of mine works for Continental, he can get 116 for each tire, and then I got these tires Head to Costco to install them for $10 each. I've never done this before. Does anyone recommend me to do this? is safe? Does the tire come with a manufacturer’s warranty? How many miles? Thanks Frank
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| 80959002443 (107hp) | First of all, BMW will most likely only replace the worn pads. You can go through your idrive to check which ones need replacing. Finally, the sensors will give you a pad warning again as they detect the low pad signal. When installing, remember to also urge them to replace the rotors, as this is an expensive DIY job. Remember, replacing pads and rotors after your warranty expires is strictly a DIY job, so don't worry too much. There are numerous F10 owners who have replaced their tires with run-flat and non-run-flat tires, so all is well. Choose Costco if they are cheapest. The tires come with a manufacturer's warranty and yes, it is safe as long as they are good brand tires (Continental) and Costco should know what they are doing.
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| leilei (120hp) | Thank you, Ndinh, for your suggestion. I didn't know rotors were also part of the warranty. Can I search for available mileage for pads and rotors via idrive? Thanks Frank
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| lamborgini (772hp) | Quote: Originally written by [email protected] Thank you, Ndinh, for your suggestion. I didn't know rotors were also part of the warranty. Can I search for available mileage for pads and rotors via idrive? Thank you, Frank. No, the idrive does not give you any details. It will only show you which ones need to be replaced (front or rear), but not the pads or brake discs. If the sensor light comes on, the pads generally need to be replaced. Based on your mileage, it's likely that the rotors won't need replacing unless they're warped, which you'll definitely notice when braking. You can simply touch the lip of the rotor and if the lip is badly dented they will need to be replaced. Brakes and rotors should be covered, but only if the car tells BMW SA it needs to be replaced. Otherwise, you can't just tell them to replace them.
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| 19841212 (443hp) | Since your warranty is about to expire, you should check the battery. A vehicle with low mileage and an original battery may require replacement. I had mine replaced two weeks before my warranty expired. My service manager took care of me even though a replacement was questionable. My rear brakes and brake pads were replaced at my expense. Canadian warranties do not cover brakes. Good luck.
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| retype (357hp) | Tell them that the other day the car wouldn't start and when you tried again it barely started and it said the battery was low and you should drive around to charge it. Tell them you did it and the message will go away. Also tell them that the brakes are making a squeaking noise and they will replace all four. Remember that they also make money from this, so they are happy to oblige
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| mgoblue (82hp) | Thanks guys for all the posts. I took the car to the dealer yesterday. Before I set off, I check the Idrive. It both shows 3,300 miles required to replace the front and genuine brake pads. The dealer says the front brake pad is 10mm and the real brake pad is 6mm. They also installed the charger (don't know what that means?), ran maintenance schedule, did CBS correction on front and real brakes. Now when I check idrive it says 25,000 miles on the front, in reality it is 14,000 miles, felt bad, we drive carefully... so they said the rotors are in good condition, the car has 36,000 miles and warranty until the end December 2016. They told me they had to send the pads back to BMW, I don't know is it true? Or can I take my car to another BMW dealer in the next few months? So battery is part of the warranty? Do I need to pay attention to anything else before the warranty expires? Did the dealer also indicate that I needed XDrive service? The car has only had regular oil changes and a field clean. (I forgot how to call). The dealer said four tires had 3mm and needed to be replaced asap. I have a friend who works for a continental company. So Contiprocontact SSR 225/55r17-97v costs about $116. Then I called Costco. You said I need $10 to install each tire or replace anything else? Like the TPMS RBK Base Kit 2000K, it came from a discount tire store. Is it called sensor? Is this part OK? Does BMW have an extended warranty? is it worth it? I attach the brake pads, first at the front and then properly. Thank you everyone for your advice. Frank
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| mast3r (329hp) | In my opinion these pads look pretty meaty...
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| boss13 (546hp) | According to idrive before I took my car to the dealer it said there was 3,300 miles left and then the dealer reset it, now idrive on the front shows 25,000 miles and in reality it is 14,000 miles.
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| jetlee (424hp) | So you're saying your pads weren't replaced, just your pad settings reset? This is strange, but it looks like the pads still have some life left. You should definitely replace the tires. You don't need to buy TPMS, it is attached to your wheels and therefore cannot be touched. If you ever need to have pads made later, you can definitely do it yourself (I did mine) or take it to a store.
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| mustafa123 (265hp) | Yes, they didn't replace the front and real brake pads, they just recalibrated. How much does it cost to order parts? It's not so fair that I drove carefully and didn't have the dealer replace them. The dealer told me that they will send the replacement pads to BMW so they cannot replace them for me. Can I try it at another retailer next month? What about the battery? Is it covered under warranty? Thanks Frank
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| wiener (145hp) | Quote: Originally written by BigKutta Tell them the car wouldn't start the other day and when you tried again it barely started and it said the battery was low and to drive around to charge it. Tell them you did it and the message will go away. Also tell them that the brakes are making a squeaking noise and they will replace all four. Remember that they make money from this too, so they are happy to cover the battery warranty?
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| soriano (369hp) | Hello, my warranty for the BMX 528i Xdrive 2012 ends in December this year. My brake pad has never been changed, the car has 36,000 miles on it, the other day the brake light came on, and then I turned the technician off and restarted and never had the light again, but I scheduled a service appointment at the dealer that tomorrow, about everything to check. Here is my question about the brake pads: Do they even replace all 4 brake pads or do they just replace what is needed? Maybe there are 2 in the front? Also the tires have never been replaced, I'm thinking about ordering the Continental - Contiprocontact SSR 225/55R17-97V Runflat, a friend of mine works for Continental, he can get 116 for each tire, and then I got these tires Head to Costco to install them for $10 each. I've never done this before. Does anyone recommend me to do this? is safe? Does the tire come with a manufacturer’s warranty? How many miles? Thanks Frank
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| ++++++ (764hp) | First of all, BMW will most likely only replace the worn pads. You can go through your idrive to check which ones need replacing. Finally, the sensors will give you a pad warning again as they detect the low pad signal. When installing, remember to also urge them to replace the rotors, as this is an expensive DIY job. Remember, replacing pads and rotors after your warranty expires is strictly a DIY job, so don't worry too much. There are numerous F10 owners who have replaced their tires with run-flat and non-run-flat tires, so all is well. Choose Costco if they are cheapest. The tires come with a manufacturer's warranty and yes, it is safe as long as they are good brand tires (Continental) and Costco should know what they are doing.
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| damira.shagabutdinova (64hp) | Thank you, Ndinh, for your suggestion. I didn't know rotors were also part of the warranty. Can I search for available mileage for pads and rotors via idrive? Thanks Frank
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| BodybyJef (394hp) | Quote: Originally written by [email protected] Thank you, Ndinh, for your suggestion. I didn't know rotors were also part of the warranty. Can I search for available mileage for pads and rotors via idrive? Thank you, Frank. No, the idrive does not give you any details. It will only show you which ones need to be replaced (front or rear), but not the pads or brake discs. If the sensor light comes on, the pads generally need to be replaced. Based on your mileage, it's likely that the rotors won't need replacing unless they're warped, which you'll definitely notice when braking. You can simply touch the lip of the rotor and if the lip is badly dented they will need to be replaced. Brakes and rotors should be covered, but only if the car tells BMW SA it needs to be replaced. Otherwise, you can't just tell them to replace them.
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| 190577 (885hp) | Since your warranty is about to expire, you should check the battery. A vehicle with low mileage and an original battery may require replacement. I had mine replaced two weeks before my warranty expired. My service manager took care of me even though a replacement was questionable. My rear brakes and brake pads were replaced at my expense. Canadian warranties do not cover brakes. Good luck.
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| x8AxspuMEz (457hp) | Tell them that the other day the car wouldn't start and when you tried again it barely started and it said the battery was low and you should drive around to charge it. Tell them you did it and the message will go away. Also tell them that the brakes are making a squeaking noise and they will replace all four. Remember that they also make money from this, so they are happy to oblige
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| mansoor (311hp) | Thanks guys for all the posts. I took the car to the dealer yesterday. Before I set off, I check the Idrive. It both shows 3,300 miles required to replace the front and genuine brake pads. The dealer says the front brake pad is 10mm and the real brake pad is 6mm. They also installed the charger (I don't know what that means?), carried out maintenance schedule, did CBS correction on front wheel and real brakes. Now when I check idrive it says 25,000 miles on the front and in reality it is 14,000 miles. It felt bad when we drove it to care... so they said the rotors were in good condition, the car had 36,000 miles and a warranty until the end of December 2016. They told me they had to send the pads back to BMW. I don't know if that's true? Or can I take my car to another BMW dealer in the next few months? So battery is part of the warranty? Do I need to pay attention to anything else before the warranty expires? Did the dealer also indicate that I needed XDrive service? The car has only had regular oil changes and a field clean. (I forgot how to call). The dealer said four tires had 3mm and needed to be replaced asap. I have a friend who works for a continental company. So Contiprocontact SSR 225/55r17-97v costs about $116. Then I called Costco. You said I need $10 to install each tire or replace anything else? Like the TPMS RBK Base Kit 2000K, it came from a discount tire store. Is it called sensor? Is this part OK? Does BMW have an extended warranty? is it worth it? I attach the brake pads, first at the front and then properly. Thank you everyone for your advice. Frank
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| plmokn (972hp) | In my opinion these pads look pretty meaty...
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| hotboy12 (177hp) | According to idrive before I took my car to the dealer it said there was 3,300 miles left and then the dealer reset it, now idrive on the front shows 25,000 miles and in reality it is 14,000 miles.
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| hemmelig (151hp) | So you're saying your pads weren't replaced, just your pad settings reset? This is strange, but it looks like the pads still have some life left. You should definitely replace the tires. You don't need to buy TPMS, it is attached to your wheels and therefore cannot be touched. If you ever need to have pads made later, you can definitely do it yourself (I did mine) or take it to a store.
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| 060587 (119hp) | Yes, they didn't replace the front and real brake pads, they just recalibrated. How much does it cost to order parts? It's not so fair that I drove carefully and didn't have the dealer replace them. The dealer told me that they will send the replacement pads to BMW so they cannot replace them for me. Can I try it at another retailer next month? What about the battery? Is it covered under warranty? Thanks Frank
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| hellspawn (843hp) | Quote: Originally written by BigKutta Tell them the car wouldn't start the other day and when you tried again it barely started and it said the battery was low and to drive around to charge it. Tell them you did it and the message will go away. Also tell them that the brakes are making a squeaking noise and they will replace all four. Remember that they make money from this too, so they are happy to cover the battery warranty?
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