| Username: | Message: |
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| perlita (133hp) | I have the same annoying problem with my e90! Do you have tints on your car? Like you said, if you roll your windows down a little the noise goes away. It's definitely not the door seal but rather the seal around the upper parts of the window. Alan
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| bonilla (981hp) | no tints, absolutely standard, only 2 months.
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| thurman (328hp) | and maybe some progress, I managed to order Gummi Pfledge from BMW directly on Amazon and apply it to the rubber part at the very top of the door frame. (not the rubber seals that go around the whole door) Seems to have fixed this problem, but left me with the problem of the squeaking coming from the seat belt assembly on the B-pillar. Sounds like a visit to the dealer, unless I can suggest something else?
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| pooping1 (383hp) | Quote: Originally posted by AP If any of you have encountered a squeaky door, noticed moving slowly over bumps, etc., looks like I've successfully fixed that problem. Clean the door rubber strips with dishwashing liquid and water on a tissue, then wipe again with a tissue. I had a similar problem with my E39 in the past for which I applied BMW Silicon spray - however, read in the F10 manual not to apply silicone to rubber parts. the problem seems to have disappeared. I was surprised how much dirt was on the rubber seals, even though the car is only about 10 days old. I thought I'd post in case any of you have a similar problem. All the cracking or rattling is driving me crazy! This is common on all BMW cars. the best way is to clean the rubber seals and then put vasaline on them and it will last for many years. it is also very good in hot weather and works well.
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| kenshiro (199hp) | If any of you have encountered a squeaky door, noticed moving slowly over bumps, etc., it looks like I've managed to sort that out. Clean the door rubber strips with dishwashing liquid and water on a tissue, then wipe again with a tissue. I had a similar problem with my E39 in the past for which I applied BMW Silicon spray - however, read in the F10 manual not to apply silicone to rubber parts. the problem seems to have disappeared. I was surprised how much dirt was on the rubber seals, even though the car is only about 10 days old. I thought I'd post in case any of you have a similar problem. All the crunches or rattles drive me crazy!
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| junior2 (680hp) | Quote: Originally posted by AP If any of you have encountered a squeaky door, noticed moving slowly over bumps, etc., looks like I've successfully fixed that problem. Clean the door rubber strips with dishwashing liquid and water on a tissue, then wipe again with a tissue. I had a similar problem with my E39 in the past for which I applied BMW Silicon spray - however, read in the F10 manual not to apply silicone to rubber parts. the problem seems to have disappeared. I was surprised how much dirt was on the rubber seals, even though the car is only about 10 days old. I thought I'd post in case any of you have a similar problem. All the cracking or rattling is driving me crazy! Good to know you solved this problem! I'm also extremely opposed to creaking and rattling. Other concerns so far?
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| cowboys69 (865hp) | Very good, even if the car seems to pull to the left. Tire pressure was checked and found to be a little low (I thought pdi would mean they were delivered with them properly adjusted). Despite this, I still have the impression that he pulls to the left. I try to find a route without camber to be safe. I'm not sure tires are more prone to "proper" tires »?
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| whatitdo (821hp) | well unfortunately the problem is back. If you Google squeaky doors and squeaky BMWs, there are tons of results about it and it seems to be a very common problem. As others have noted, if the window is lowered a few millimeters the problem disappears. So, as others have found, it's not the flexible rubber seals around the door that are where the seal at the top of the door touches the body. I cleaned with meth and dishwashing liquid but the problem came back. The BMW manual says not to use anything containing silicon, so I won't. there have also been references to Gummi Pfledge, although BMW apparently no longer sells it. (they sell their own product via BMW Original Car Rubber Vinyl Plastic Protector 300m (83 12 0 301 480) for reference) Other than cleaning again with dishwashing liquid, I don't know what to do. Ideas?
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| mautzi (858hp) | I have the same annoying problem with my e90! Do you have tints on your car? Like you said, if you roll your windows down a little the noise goes away. It's definitely not the door seal but rather the seal around the upper parts of the window. Alan
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| 220291 (27hp) | no tints, absolutely standard, only 2 months.
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| 14121994 (513hp) | and maybe some progress, I managed to order Gummi Pfledge from BMW directly on Amazon and apply it to the rubber part at the very top of the door frame. (not the rubber seals that go around the whole door) Seems to have fixed this problem, but left me with the problem of the squeaking coming from the seat belt assembly on the B-pillar. Sounds like a visit to the dealer, unless I can suggest something else?
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| 03081995 (408hp) | Quote: Originally posted by AP If any of you have encountered a squeaky door, noticed moving slowly over bumps, etc., looks like I've successfully fixed that problem. Clean the door rubber strips with dishwashing liquid and water on a tissue, then wipe again with a tissue. I had a similar problem with my E39 in the past for which I applied BMW Silicon spray - however, read in the F10 manual not to apply silicone to rubber parts. the problem seems to have disappeared. I was surprised how much dirt was on the rubber seals, even though the car is only about 10 days old. I thought I'd post in case any of you have a similar problem. All the cracking or rattling is driving me crazy! This is common on all BMW cars. the best way is to clean the rubber seals and then put vasaline on them and it will last for many years. it is also very good in hot weather and works well.
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| jaejoong (213hp) | I'm picking up my new 2011 535i next week, Jet Black/Black Dakota. Upgrade from an 08 335i coupe. Please share your thoughts on some aftermarket mods, thanks in advance guys. So far all I have planned is: 1. Tint (metallic or ceramic? and why?) 2. Black emblems 3. Matte black grilles 4. Matte black fender trim 5. headlight upgrade around 6k (haven't decided which brand etc., suggestions welcome )
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| 10051989 (576hp) | It depends on your budget! But definitely tint in Cali, check out Huper and STM in Los Angeles. Here is someone who sells grills http://forums.5series.net/topic/1161...kidney-grills/
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| dangelo (586hp) | Moving and tinted DVD. Maybe wheels
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| googlecheckout (346hp) | I guess it depends on the options you have on your car, but my top 5 are: 1. paint protection film 2. cargo liner 3. ceramic tint - ceramic is supposed to be a better insulator than metal and none interference. 4. Sprint booster or other tuning - depends on what comes out when I buy 5. Wheels I only received the first one so far.
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| jade07 (416hp) | On my 2011 Alpine White 535i I add a 3D Design chin spoiler and carbon fiber rear diffuser, carbon fiber side marker light trim, carbon fiber grille, Vossen VVSCV2 20 in wheels matte black/machined/stainless steel, a carbon fiber side pillar. carbon fiber side mirror covers and caps. I don't know if I will play with the exhaust system or just convert the twin pipes to dual pipes..
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| 01021986 (281hp) | It desperately needs an audible exhaust system. The stock is quiet like a Tesla.
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| brownie2 (118hp) | Fall and wheels.
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| utjvtnhbz (572hp) | 1. Colors 2. Wheels / Spacers 3. Chip / Tune 4. Exhaust 5. Suspension 6. Downpipes 7. Spoilers (Front, Rear, Trunk) 8. Grille / Reflectors / Signals 9. Lighting (Interior / Exterior) 10. To determine
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| skater5 (662hp) | Quote: Originally posted by remmib Drop and wheels. +1
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| sasha7 (339hp) | Quote: Originally posted by remmib Drop and wheels. 2 I would never have said drop, but the ride with the kw v3 resistors is unreal. Car is faster, brakes better, handles like nothing I've ever driven.
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| parkside (117hp) | 1- Color 2- Wheels 3- Drop 4- Aerodynamic body kit 5- Exhaust
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| femist22 (594hp) | I wouldn't say chip tuning is a good idea right now, because your car is really NEW!! ride with it, enjoy it and maybe after a year or 2, tune it. If you really want the mod I'd say do this: 1. Wheels probably a 20 2. KW V3 3. Exhaust, maybe a Quad Tip Meisterschaft 4. AR Design Pipes 5. Diffuser 6. Front Lips. I guess that's enough to make your car look sick as hell. That's right, IMO. =)
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| sheckler1 (811hp) | I don't want to repeat what others have already suggested. but the main thing is a question of $. Set a budget and you will know what you are going to do.
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| adrianma (693hp) | 1. Colors (Ceramic if you have comfort access) 2. Wheels 3. Suspension 4. Spoiler 5. Front lip
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| 08101992 (845hp) | +3 fall and wheels. For me, ACS springs, tint and wheels (Forgestars coming soon). Quote: Originally published by EdwinF10 +1
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| bennyboy (320hp) | Quote: Originally posted by KWS335i I'm picking up my new 2011 535i next week, Jet Black/Black Dakota. Upgrade from an 08 335i coupe. Please share your thoughts on some aftermarket mods, thanks in advance guys. Driver with engaged brain.
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| 06021979 (944hp) | Quote: Originally published by Snapper Chris Driver with engaged brain. +1
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| teepee (331hp) | To transform the 535i into a powerful beast, but also keep it usable every day, I would suggest the following 1. Tune - You will fall in love with the extra power, it truly transforms the car. It will pull like a torquey large displacement V8. 2. Suspension - Depending on your preference, a Sport or Race spring to improve the handling of the car. You should also consider shocks if you go very low. Stock shocks tend to give a harsh ride when paired with a more aggressive drop. 3. Get rid of runflats. Add in a lighter rim and you should see a noticeable decrease in stopping time and acceleration, as well as improved ride quality and handling (a tire mobility kit is recommended if you're ditching runflats ). 4. Exhaust – The N55 engine responds very well to a downpipe. You will see substantial HP gains, as well as improved sound. You can also consider cat feedback for more sound. I would recommend a resonance downpipe if you go this route so you don't get the raspy drone, which is definitely not desirable in a stylish car like the 535i 5. A great pair of polarized sunglasses, nice driving shoes and a long wind. road.
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| 23061986 (663hp) | +4 (drop&) wheels. First get rid of all RFT ASAP IMHO.
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| none (79hp) | 1. Grille 2. Color 3. Suspension 4. Wheels 5. Exhaust 6. Rear diffuser 7. Rear spoiler 8. Front lip
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| 160983 (692hp) | Congratulations on the new car! Call us if you are looking for an exhaust, we have a few options.
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| flavor1 (612hp) | 1. Upgrade Wheels – Complete. 20,373M. 2. Lose the runflats – Try killing them now to warrant a replacement. 3. Dinan Stage 2 – Completed and it’s awesome! It also helps eliminate runflats. 4. Shade – I’m not sure what type to get…would love recommendations. 5. Exhaust - Might be interested in the Dinan exhaust, but haven't heard one on a 550i yet.
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| voroshilova.liliya (871hp) | I'm picking up my new 2011 535i next week, Jet Black/Black Dakota. Upgrade from an 08 335i coupe. Please share your thoughts on some aftermarket mods, thanks in advance guys. So far all I have planned is: 1. Tint (metallic or ceramic? and why?) 2. Black emblems 3. Matte black grilles 4. Matte black fender trim 5. headlight upgrade around 6k (haven't decided which brand etc., suggestions welcome )
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| fuckbitch1 (903hp) | It depends on your budget! But definitely tint in Cali, check out Huper and STM in Los Angeles. Here is someone who sells grills http://forums.5series.net/topic/1161...kidney-grills/
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| manika (977hp) | Moving and tinted DVD. Maybe wheels
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| gandakoh (875hp) | I guess it depends on the options you have on your car, but my top 5 are: 1. paint protection film 2. cargo liner 3. ceramic tint - ceramic is supposed to be a better insulator than metal and none interference. 4. Sprint booster or other tuning - depends on what comes out when I buy 5. Wheels I only received the first one so far.
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| eyecandy (338hp) | For some reason the key fob I'm using will adjust the seat, steering wheel and mirrors when I press the unlock. I have these settings saved in M2. My wife's keychain won't do that. Her settings are saved in M1 and she has to press button 1 to adjust everything after driving the car. Its key fob won't call any of its settings. It's a 2011 535xi with Nav, but no comfort access. Tips for making your keychain work like mine?
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| 16021984 (30hp) | On my 2011 Alpine White 535i I add a 3D Design chin spoiler and carbon fiber rear diffuser, carbon fiber side marker light trim, carbon fiber grille, Vossen VVSCV2 20 in wheels matte black/machined/stainless steel, a carbon fiber side pillar. carbon fiber side mirror covers and caps. I don't know if I'll play with the exhaust system or just convert the twin pipes to dual pipes..
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| emopunk1 (307hp) | You can try resetting the profile on the key fob – it may be corrupted. Use the door button to configure correctly, go to Settings in the iDrive menu, select Profiles, then Reset Profile. Get out of the car, lock using the key fob and the profile should be rewritten..
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| deejaygee (424hp) | It desperately needs an audible exhaust system. The stock is quiet like a Tesla.
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| 17091982 (335hp) | Quote: Originally posted by RyanS For some reason the key fob I use will adjust the seat, steering wheel and mirrors when I press unlock. I have these settings saved in M2. My wife's keychain won't do that. Her settings are saved in M1 and she has to press button 1 to adjust everything after driving the car. Its key fob won't call any of its settings. It's a 2011 535xi with Nav, but no comfort access. Any tips for making your keychain work like mine? There is no direct link between a keychain and a profile. This is an indirect link. Whatever seat position and profile you set when you lock the car are stored in the key fob index. So you need to define your settings. Then lock the car with your remote control. Then unlock the car with the woman's key fob and set its settings. Lock the car with its key fob. Now everything is settled. If that doesn't work, make sure the last auto seat position is checked in settings..
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| crosby1 (662hp) | Fall and wheels.
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| 12041985 (940hp) | [u2b]http://www.youtube.com/embed/C4qoXe1gFck[/u2b]
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| czarodzi (751hp) | 1. Colors 2. Wheels / Spacers 3. Chip / Tune 4. Exhaust 5. Suspension 6. Downpipes 7. Spoilers (Front, Rear, Trunk) 8. Grille / Reflectors / Signals 9. Lighting (Interior / Exterior) 10. To determine
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| anjani (225hp) | For some reason the key fob I'm using will adjust the seat, steering wheel and mirrors when I press the unlock. I have these settings saved in M2. My wife's keychain won't do that. Her settings are saved in M1 and she has to press button 1 to adjust everything after driving the car. Its key fob won't call any of its settings. It's a 2011 535xi with Nav, but no comfort access. Tips for making your keychain work like mine?
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| fighter1 (697hp) | Quote: Originally posted by remmib Drop and wheels. +1
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| 890098 (102hp) | You can try resetting the profile on the key fob – it may be corrupted. Use the door button to configure correctly, go to Settings in the iDrive menu, select Profiles, then Reset Profile. Get out of the car, lock using the key fob and the profile should be rewritten..
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| bulldogs12 (908hp) | Quote: Originally posted by remmib Drop and wheels. 2 I would never have said drop, but the ride with the kw v3 resistors is unreal. Car is faster, brakes better, handles like nothing I've ever driven.
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| 19851111 (981hp) | Quote: Originally posted by RyanS For some reason the key fob I use will adjust the seat, steering wheel and mirrors when I press unlock. I have these settings saved in M2. My wife's keychain won't do that. Her settings are saved in M1 and she has to press button 1 to adjust everything after driving the car. Its key fob won't call any of its settings. It's a 2011 535xi with Nav, but no comfort access. Any tips for making your keychain work like mine? There is no direct link between a keychain and a profile. This is an indirect link. Whatever seat position and profile you set when you lock the car are stored in the key fob index. So you need to define your settings. Then lock the car with your remote control. Then unlock the car with the woman's key fob and set its settings. Lock the car with its key fob. Now everything is settled. If that doesn't work, make sure the last auto seat position is checked in settings..
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| 210989 (388hp) | 1- Color 2- Wheels 3- Drop 4- Aerodynamic body kit 5- Exhaust
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| 11031103 (658hp) | [u2b]http://www.youtube.com/embed/C4qoXe1gFck[/u2b]
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| LzuDz2xe98 (986hp) | I wouldn't say chip tuning is a good idea right now, because your car is really NEW!! ride with it, enjoy it and maybe after a year or 2, tune it. If you really want the mod I'd say do this: 1. Wheels probably a 20 2. KW V3 3. Exhaust, maybe a Meisterschaft Quad Tip 4. AR Design Pipes 5. Diffuser 6. Front Lips. I guess that's enough to make your car look sick as hell. That's right, IMO. =)
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| blade3 (982hp) | I don't want to repeat what others have already suggested. but the main thing is a question of $. Set a budget and you will know what you are going to do.
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| idinahui (878hp) | 1. Colors (Ceramic if you have comfort access) 2. Wheels 3. Suspension 4. Spoiler 5. Front lip
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| 050694 (295hp) | +3 fall and wheels. For me, ACS springs, tint and wheels (Forgestars coming soon). Quote: Originally published by EdwinF10 +1
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| crip60 (893hp) | Quote: Originally posted by KWS335i I'm picking up my new 2011 535i next week, Jet Black/Black Dakota. Upgrade from an 08 335i coupe. Please share your thoughts on some aftermarket mods, thanks in advance guys. Driver with engaged brain.
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| raymond5 (104hp) | Quote: Originally published by Snapper Chris Driver with engaged brain. +1
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| mydad1 (508hp) | To transform the 535i into a powerful beast, but also keep it usable every day, I would suggest the following 1. Tune - You will fall in love with the extra power, it truly transforms the car. It will pull like a torquey large displacement V8. 2. Suspension - Depending on your preference, a Sport or Race spring to improve the handling of the car. You should also consider shocks if you go very low. Stock shocks tend to give a harsh ride when paired with a more aggressive drop. 3. Get rid of runflats. Add in a lighter rim and you should see a noticeable decrease in stopping time and acceleration, as well as improved ride quality and handling (a tire mobility kit is recommended if you're ditching runflats ). 4. Exhaust – The N55 engine responds very well to a downpipe. You will see substantial HP gains, as well as improved sound. You can also consider cat feedback for more sound. I would recommend a resonance downpipe if you go this route so you don't get the raspy drone, which is definitely not desirable in a stylish car like the 535i 5. A great pair of polarized sunglasses, nice driving shoes and a long wind. road.
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| matthew25 (240hp) | +4 (drop&) wheels. First get rid of all RFT ASAP IMHO.
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| 120376 (114hp) | 1. Grille 2. Color 3. Suspension 4. Wheels 5. Exhaust 6. Rear diffuser 7. Rear spoiler 8. Front lip
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| lakewood1 (923hp) | Congratulations on the new car! Call us if you are looking for an exhaust, we have a few options.
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| 100285 (899hp) | 1. Upgrade Wheels – Complete. 20,373M. 2. Lose the runflats – Try killing them now to warrant a replacement. 3. Dinan Stage 2 – Completed and it’s awesome! It also helps eliminate runflats. 4. Shade – Not sure what type to get…would love recommendations. 5. Exhaust - Might be interested in the Dinan exhaust, but haven't heard one on a 550i yet.
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| dexter10 (269hp) | Quote: Posted by MikeGr Biggest doubts right now: I was already partial to comfortable seats and active steering, but Livelarger and Jinmadrid's opinions made me rethink those. I guess I'll have to test drive a few cars with and without them to make the final decision. My best advice is to try it yourself. I tested cars with and without comfort seats and after driving with comfort seats, I couldn't live without them. As for active steering, only check it if you've tried a car equipped with this option. The difference is too big to just rely on what people say online.
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| allen13 (757hp) | Hi - I just ordered my own F10 535d M-Sport and I highly recommend the: - Carbon Black - I had it on my previous 545i and it is simply the BEST color. - Comfort seats - I wouldn't go anywhere without them (they were on the last 2 cars). - I have had M-Sport suspension 3 times before but this time I ordered the Adaptive Drive and Active Steering, I think they will be a great combo on this car.
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| roxette (485hp) | What do you think of the parking assist/automatic parking option? Is this useful at all? Considering it with HUD and Activesteering!
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| 240780 (961hp) | Quote: Originally posted by notsureyet What do you think about the park assist/auto park option? Is this useful at all? Consider it with HUD and Activesteering! The HUD came standard on mine (but I had it on my X5 and wouldn't live without it - it's awesome). I opted for my car quite significantly and chose both IAS and Park Assistant. The first because I thought it was a "must have" and (to be honest here) I bought Park Assist just for fun.
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| 110189 (89hp) | Quote: Originally posted by bmwombat The HUD came standard on mine (but I had it on my X5 and wouldn't live without it - it's awesome). I opted for my car quite significantly and chose both IAS and Park Assistant. The first because I thought it was a "must have" and (to be honest here) I bought Park Assist just for fun. And beyond the novelty value, do you find it useful? I mean, do you still use it regularly? I tried it when I tested a Merc ML350 and thought it was such awesome technology.....
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| 1245780 (919hp) | I would say the HUD, PDC and Comfort seats are my most popular options. How much does the HUD option cost in Portugal. In Bulgaria, when we import new cars (up to 6 months old) from an EU country, we do not pay any tax, apart from VAT which is still paid..
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| acinom (520hp) | Quote: Posted by notsureyet And aside from the novelty value, do you find it useful? I mean, do you still use it regularly? I tried it when I test drove a Merc ML350 and thought it was such awesome technology... My car has only just been built and won't arrive in Australia until January 6th, so I will give a full report once I have had it for a few weeks.
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| babycakes! (357hp) | Quote: Originally posted by tnikolov I would say the HUD, PDC and Comfort seats are my most popular options. How much does the HUD option cost in Portugal. In Bulgaria, when we import new cars (up to 6 months old) from an EU country, we do not pay any taxes, apart from VAT which is still paid. The HUD here is about 1500Ђ. I submitted the order with comfort seats, hud, surround view, ceramic, nav pro..... I will try to arrange a test drive to decide if I go for adaptive driving or not... . and in that case I would probably drop some options....
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| 1918 (859hp) | MikeGr, another F11 owner in his 30s here. I had two e60s but the last car before the F11 was also the E92. First congratulations on fatherhood!!! We are also a home for one child (for the moment...), he is 2.5 years old now. Don't be under any illusions, you WILL need space in the trunk of the F11, especially if family members live anywhere other than very close by. I sometimes fall into the trap of thinking I should have bought the F10... then we go to visit someone or go somewhere with a buggy, toys, bags and go shopping and I suddenly remember why I bought the F11 You are in denial, it's normal to be a man in your thirties driving a station wagon, there are many of us here joining the group! And if your work colleagues called it a hearse... it's not that that happens to me, you understand (assholes). Let's face it, the '19 F11 M-sport touring is still a very nice car in every way and believe me, even if you drive like an old woman (like me), there are still rare moments where it Vauxhall Corsa is fun for young children to drive. the lights who think they can teach grandpa a lesson in his station wagon. Nothing they hate more than being left in dust by a car like that with a baby waving at them through the side window Options I chose on my 530d: - professional media - panoramic roof (excellent on F11) - memory seats - BMW business audio upgrade - auto sport - 19 wheels - dab - m-sport pack - folding/anti-dazzle mirrors
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| filatovaev1981 (310hp) | I came to my F10 535xi from an Audi A4 Avant. The F11 is not offered in the United States. I love the F10 but I sometimes miss the utility of the wagon. As for styling and aesthetics, perhaps this will allay any concerns... http://f10.5post.com/forums/showthread.php?t=750772 I found this wagon strangely lust inducing..
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| 12345sex (500hp) | A competent driver!
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| 3698 (747hp) | I opted for comfort seats, a hud, a panoramic view, a professional GPS, an m pack, ceramic controls, a multifunctional instrument cluster, a bang&olufsen, a sports car, 19 wheels and a sedan! eheh... no f11 here... delivery expected in January, the wait is killing me!
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| Derin100 (525hp) | 'm Quote: Originally posted by MikeGr I went for comfort seats, hud, panoramic view, pro gps, m pack, ceramic controls, multi function instrument cluster, bang&olufsen, car sport, 19 wheels and a sedan! eheh... no f11 here... delivery expected in January, the wait is killing me! Opt for Adaptive Drive - impressive performance
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| mario5 (248hp) | What is the price of the cage now rear. Is it $6,100 or $4,800, I'm a little confused. To clarify, when I add a sport package, it also adds $1,300 for the multi-contour seats. I thought they were part of the default sport package. Please help.
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| wireless1 (309hp) | Quote: Originally posted by MPH I'm going for the Adaptive Player: Awesome Performance can't make any more changes, it will go into production next week.....
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| 23061992 (207hp) | check the new prices for 2013, I believe they have gone down to only 2900 for m sport and multi contour is separate.
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| yellow09 (345hp) | Quote: Posted by MikeGr Biggest doubts right now: I was already partial to comfortable seats and active steering, but Livelarger and Jinmadrid's opinions made me rethink those. I guess I'll have to test drive a few cars with and without them to make the final decision. My best advice is to try it yourself. I tested cars with and without comfort seats and after driving with comfort seats, I couldn't live without them. As for active steering, only check it if you've tried a car equipped with this option. The difference is too big to just rely on what people say online.
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| god666 (903hp) | The M Sport option for 2013 only costs $2,900 BUT it doesn't include the Dynamic Damper Control (DDC) that was part of the package in previous years. Although I assume most 2013s with M Sport will come with this option added, be sure to check it out as it's a nice feature for this car. The Dynamic Handling package is a little higher but includes DDC AND the fabulous Active Roll Stabilization option (at least it did in 2012). Check it out.
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| surfboard (686hp) | Hi - I just ordered my own F10 535d M-Sport and I highly recommend the: - Carbon Black - I had it on my previous 545i and it is simply the BEST color. - Comfort seats - I wouldn't go anywhere without them (they were on the last 2 cars). - I have had M-Sport suspension 3 times before but this time I ordered the Adaptive Drive and Active Steering, I think they will be a great combo on this car.
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| poppoppop (131hp) | wow, it's so cheap. I had to pay $9,600 for the sport m
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| chicana1 (248hp) | What do you think of the parking assist/automatic parking option? Is this useful at all? Considering it with HUD and Activesteering!
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| india1234 (268hp) | Quote: Originally Posted by M_528i wow so cheap. I had to pay $9,600 for the sport M. That's because you're in Hong Kong. lol
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| max.kirilov.90 (628hp) | Quote: Originally posted by notsureyet What do you think about the park assist/auto park option? Is this useful at all? Consider it with HUD and Activesteering! The HUD came standard on mine (but I had it on my X5 and wouldn't live without it - it's awesome). I opted for my car quite significantly and chose both IAS and Park Assistant. The first because I thought it was a "must have" and (to be honest here) I bought Park Assist just for fun.
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| peppy1 (800hp) | Quote: Posted by ryan970 It's because you're in Hong Kong. lol 60% tax in Hong Kong for cars yeah I wish I was back in the UK buying cars.
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| 1qw23e (925hp) | Quote: Originally posted by bmwombat The HUD came standard on mine (but I had it on my X5 and wouldn't live without it - it's awesome). I opted for my car quite significantly and chose both IAS and Park Assistant. The first because I thought it was a "must have" and (to be honest here) I bought Park Assist just for fun. And beyond the novelty value, do you find it useful? I mean, do you still use it regularly? I tried it when I tested a Merc ML350 and thought it was such awesome technology.....
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| 160286 (571hp) | Quote: Posted by M_528i Hong Kong 60% tax on cars yeah I wish I was back in the UK buying cars. Still expensive in the UK. lol
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| 197710 (250hp) | I would say the HUD, PDC and Comfort seats are my most popular options. How much does the HUD option cost in Portugal. In Bulgaria, when we import new cars (up to 6 months old) from an EU country, we do not pay any taxes, apart from VAT which is still paid..
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| basket23 (523hp) | What is the price of the cage now rear. Is it $6,100 or $4,800, I'm a little confused. To clarify, when I add a sport package, it also adds $1,300 for the multi-contour seats. I thought they were part of the default sport package. Please help.
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| johnson12 (324hp) | Quote: Posted by notsureyet And aside from the novelty value, do you find it useful? I mean, do you still use it regularly? I tried it when I test drove a Merc ML350 and thought it was such awesome technology... My car has only just been built and won't arrive in Australia until January 6th, so I will give a full report once I have had it for a few weeks.
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| soccerboy (541hp) | check the new prices for 2013, I believe they have gone down to only 2900 for m sport and multi contour is separate.
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| kerrie (54hp) | Quote: Originally posted by tnikolov I would say the HUD, PDC and Comfort seats are my most popular options. How much does the HUD option cost in Portugal. In Bulgaria, when we import new cars (up to 6 months old) from an EU country, we do not pay any taxes, apart from VAT which is still paid. The HUD here is about 1500Ђ. I submitted the order with comfort seats, hud, surround view, ceramic, nav pro..... I will try to arrange a test drive to decide if I go for adaptive driving or not... . and in that case I would probably drop some options....
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| peachie (499hp) | The M Sport option for 2013 only costs $2,900 BUT it doesn't include the Dynamic Damper Control (DDC) that was part of the package in previous years. Although I assume most 2013s with M Sport will come with this option added, be sure to check it out as it's a nice feature for this car. The Dynamic Handling package is a little higher but includes DDC AND the fabulous Active Roll Stabilization option (at least it did in 2012). Check it out.
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| hanako (730hp) | MikeGr, another F11 owner in his 30s here. I had two e60s but the last car before the F11 was also the E92. First congratulations on fatherhood!!! We are also a home for one child (for the moment...), he is 2.5 years old now. Don't be under any illusions, you WILL need space in the trunk of the F11, especially if family members live anywhere other than very close by. I sometimes fall into the trap of thinking I should have bought the F10... then we go to visit someone or go somewhere with a buggy, toys, bags and go shopping and I suddenly remember why I bought the F11 You are in denial, it's normal to be a man in your thirties driving a station wagon, there are many of us here joining the group! And if your work colleagues called it a hearse... it's not that that happens to me, you understand (assholes). Let's face it, the '19 F11 M-sport touring is still a very nice car in every way and believe me, even if you drive like an old woman (like me), there are still rare moments where it Vauxhall Corsa is fun to drive with young children. the lights who think they can teach grandpa a lesson in his station wagon. Nothing they hate more than being left in dust by a car like that with a baby waving at them through the side window Options I chose on my 530d: - professional media - panoramic roof (excellent on F11) - memory seats - BMW business audio upgrade - auto sport - 19 wheels - dab - m-sport pack - folding/anti-dazzle mirrors
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| 16011978 (271hp) | wow, it's so cheap. I had to pay $9,600 for the sport m
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| maximum (320hp) | I came to my F10 535xi from an Audi A4 Avant. The F11 is not offered in the United States. I love the F10 but I sometimes miss the utility of the wagon. As for styling and aesthetics, perhaps this will allay any concerns... http://f10.5post.com/forums/showthread.php?t=750772 I found this wagon strangely lust inducing..
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| 123456789R (339hp) | Quote: Originally Posted by M_528i wow so cheap. I had to pay $9,600 for the sport M. That's because you're in Hong Kong. lol
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| bleach123 (9hp) | A competent driver!
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| paramore! (408hp) | Quote: Posted by ryan970 It's because you're in Hong Kong. lol 60% tax in Hong Kong for cars yeah I wish I was back in the UK buying cars.
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| inglaterra (383hp) | I opted for comfort seats, a hud, a panoramic view, a professional GPS, an m pack, ceramic controls, a multifunctional instrument cluster, a bang&olufsen, a sports car, 19 wheels and a sedan! eheh... no f11 here... delivery expected in January, the wait is killing me!
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| bobbydog (560hp) | Quote: Posted by M_528i Hong Kong 60% tax on cars yeah I wish I was back in the UK buying cars. Still expensive in the UK. lol
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| linus (452hp) | 'm Quote: Originally posted by MikeGr I went for comfort seats, hud, panoramic view, pro gps, m pack, ceramic controls, multi function instrument cluster, bang&olufsen, car sport, 19 wheels and a sedan! eheh... no f11 here... delivery expected in January, the wait is killing me! Opt for Adaptive Drive - impressive performance
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| stevesingo (313hp) | Quote: Originally posted by MPH I'm going for the Adaptive Player: Awesome Performance can't make any more changes, it will go into production next week.....
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| syracuse1 (400hp) | Quote: Originally posted by Breach I can't make sense of the schematics on Realoem, but the only temperature sensors I can see are located right next to the center air vents: http://realoem .com/bmw/showparts.do?...55&hg=64&fg=40 Breach: I think they are located in the top panel behind the grill (where the SOS button is). But I'm not sure 100%.
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| darklight (467hp) | The air conditioning cabin temperature sensor input has traditionally been mounted JUST BEHIND THE CUP HOLDER on a car, so probably according to E39, if you put a cold drink in the cup holder the car thinks that it freezes inside, so you boil it if you put a coffee in it. the cup holder is probably E39 compliant, it will think the car is really hot and freeze you to death. I don't have access to ours at the moment to verify this, but I know there was a small area like a grill with slots in it and the sensor was drawing air into this vent that had the sensor located behind it..
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| bernardo1 (765hp) | If I may chime in...why do you IHKA 2-zone AC guys think there should be "heat" coming from the rear panel vents? You don't have a heat control dial, do you? There should be left/right rear air stratification in front of the rearward ducts. Without looking at the F10 schematics (but from other 2/4 zone systems), the F10/11 2 zone is very basic and only has simple face level flows, appears to have no rear adjustments. The actual heating of the car comes through the lower floor duct. Whether the "fine tuning" at the face level at the front center does much for the rear flow I would be surprised, but definitely don't expect any real heat from the face level vent, just a stratification of the front settings and how the front of the car is regulated. If you want to heat the rear, do so with the foot heater. If there is too much cool air coming from the facial vents, adjust the facial ventilation flow using the adjustment dials. You need 4 zones to really heat the rear face-level vents, because additional PTC heating elements are installed in the ducts, according to other BMW airflow patterns. HighlandPete
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| 22081982 (501hp) | Quote: Originally posted by HighlandPete If I may chime in... why do the IHKA 2 zone AC guys think there should be "heat" coming from the face level vents back ? You don't have a heat control dial, do you? There should be left/right rear air stratification in front of the rearward ducts. Without looking at the F10 schematics (but from other 2/4 zone systems), the F10/11 2 zone is very basic and only has simple face level flows, appears to have no rear adjustments. The actual heating of the car comes through the lower floor duct. Whether the "fine tuning" at the face level at the front center does much for the rear flow I would be surprised, but definitely don't expect any real heat from the face level vent, just a stratification of the front settings and how the front of the car is regulated. If you want to heat the rear, do so with the foot heater. If there is too much cool air coming from the facial vents, adjust the facial ventilation flow using the adjustment dials. You need 4 zones to really heat the rear face-level vents, because additional PTC heaters are installed in the ducts, according to other BMW airflow patterns. HighlandPete HighlandPete: I have heat coming from the rear vents. The system works well in my car and as you would expect. As it worked in my previous 335xi. The air temperature expressed through the rear vents was within the expected temperature to meet heating/cooling needs. Cool by cooling and warm by heating. The problem appears to be that this is not the behavior experienced by all owners of vehicles equipped with IHKA 2-zone climate control. The 4-zone system allows rear passengers to adjust the temperature in a much more controlled manner. 2-zone owners still expect to have an adequate heating/cooling mechanism, but controlled by the front passengers. The rear passenger should be able to maintain some rear temperature control by adjusting the airflow (which they have control over), but with no warm air in the first place, this is of no use - in fact in our climate, it's downright dangerous. I would also be very upset if cold air escaped from the rear vents when conditions called for hot air. Bill
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| croatia1 (69hp) | If you don't have 4-zone climate control, there's no way to get hot air to the rear center vent. That's just the fact. If anyone with 2 zone AC has continuous hot air in the back, post the setting you made. If you have 4 zones, don't post that you get hot air on your back, of course you do, that's what the 4 zones are for. It's a design flaw.
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| booboo5 (394hp) | Quote: Originally posted by Sharbotcom... Owners of both zones still expect to have an adequate heating/cooling mechanism, but controlled by the front passengers. The rear passenger should be able to maintain some rear temperature control by adjusting the airflow (which they have control over), but with no warm air in the first place, this is of no use - in fact in our climate, it's downright dangerous. I would also be very upset if cold air escaped from the rear vents when conditions called for hot air. But that's not the problem with 2 zones, it's the driver/passenger settings that dictate the temperature of the rear airflow. After all, it's not the heating as such, the duct at foot level will warm the rear (if adjusted accordingly at the front), it's the ventilation that's the problem. How hot can it be, if the front is hot and the ventilation at face level moderates for a cooler flow. There is no potentiometer (temperature adjustment dial) on the rear of zone 2, so how can the rear passengers have any influence on the temperature of the car in the rear? This is not like the old systems in the E60/1 and E9* cars, which do not have a 4-zone option, but have “heat adjustable” rear front ventilation. I think BMW has taken a turn here (this may be a reason to feel bitter), but offers the option of a better 4-zone system. Ditto for models like the E70 X5. HighlandPete
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| 15031975 (455hp) | Quote: Originally posted by EV0LVE... If anyone with 2 zone AC has continuous hot air in the back, post the adjustment you made. It's the only way to know what's going on. Personally, I can't see it staying hot while the car warms up, when set to fully automatic mode, because the air stratification moderates the temperature, even though there is an initial warm-up. This happens in all IHKA systems. Some have observed and reported this cooling as the car warms up. I would personally set the functions "semi" manual, only trying at the face and playing with the temperature to see if you can keep the flow warm, but I bet the front will be warm enough to do so. HighlandPete
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| godisgood! (527hp) | Ok boys, straight from the manual (you know, that paper book thing in the glove box) - Turning the rear automatic climate control on/off 1. Settings 2. Climate control 3. Rear climate control The rear automatic climate control is not operational if the automatic air conditioning is deactivated or if the window defrosting or demisting function is active.
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| sorellina (321hp) | Guys: Arriving at the office this morning, I monitored the air temperature expressed by the rear air vents (to be clear, I'm talking about the ones behind the center armrest). The outside temperature fluctuated between 0 and 1°C and the inside temperature was set at 20°C (on all settings). Throughout the trip (actually, I remembered to do this after about 5-10 minutes of traveling), I kept holding my hand in front of the upper side air vent, the driver's foot area and in front of the rear air vents. In all cases, the air temperature expressed by all the vents was the same (as accurate as I could judge with my bare hand). The temperature of the upper center dash vents varied depending on the position I adjusted the red/blue scroll to. If I had rear passengers, they would have felt the same warm air emitted from the center console vents as from the other non-center vents up front. The only climate control they would have (short of opening the window) is in adjusting the volume of airflow expressed by the adjustment flap in the center vents. Note: 1) I did not attempt to reach under the front passenger seat from the rear to feel the air temperature expressed through the vent under the seat, 2) when the temperature of the air coming from the front vents has dropped, the temperature coming from the rear vents, 3) I have yet to do the same test by turning everything off and adjusting the passenger temperature to see if the rear temperature is controlled by the one -this (I need a passenger to do the test because I don't want to constantly reach up and feel the air in the passenger side floorboard while driving). I also vividly remember passengers adjusting the vents to increase the flow of cold air when the air conditioning was on. My conclusion is that although the air source from the rear center vents may contain fresh outside air, its path must be routed in such a way that the heating/AC system can influence its temperature. The behavior of the rear air vents IN MY CAR is exactly how I expect them to operate: they provide a certain level of comfort and climate control to the rear passengers while leaving them at the mercy of the front seat occupants. The 4-zone system puts control of climate control and rear passenger comfort in the hands of the rear passengers and is a much more efficient system. Bill
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| technics_13 (141hp) | Quote: Originally posted by ToddR Ok boys, straight from the manual (you know that paper book thing in the glove box) - Turning Rear Automatic Climate On/Off 1. Settings 2. Climate 3. Climate rear The rear automatic air conditioning is not operational if the automatic air conditioning is turned off or if the window defrosting or demisting function is active. But aren't you talking about 4 zones when you talk about rear air conditioning? HighlandPete
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| BurrNinja (657hp) | Quote: Originally posted by Sharbotcom.... In all cases, the air temperature expressed by all the vents was the same (as accurate as I could judge with my bare hand). The temperature of the upper center dash vents varied depending on the position I adjusted the red/blue scroll to. .... 2) When the air temperature coming from the front vents dropped, the temperature coming from the rear vents also dropped. My conclusion is that although the air source from the center rear vents may contain fresh outside air, its path must be routed in such a way that the heating/AC system can influence its temperature. The behavior of the rear air vents IN MY CAR is exactly how I expect them to operate: they provide a certain level of comfort and climate control to the rear passengers while leaving them at the mercy of the front seat occupants. Bill Excellent experience. This is exactly what I would expect if I was in the 2 zone system. The air is mixed (there is a flap control) before being exhausted to the rear. But as you say, at the mercy of the front end users. HighlandPete
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| Dylanmcelfresh (434hp) | So for those with the 2-zone system and apparently only getting cool/cold air from the rear vents housed in the center console, try the experiment described above (alternating your hand between the under-dash air vent in the driver's footwell and the rear center console vents). The best measurement would be made once the car engine is already warmed up and the center dashboard vents (the ones controlled with the red/blue setting) are either set halfway between red and blue, or completely off. Force the system to enter a warm-up cycle by increasing the heat a few degrees. If the air expelled out the back continues to be colder than the air expelled under the dash, then I would say you have a problem. If it's the same, I'd say it works as expected. Bill
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| mariner1 (855hp) | Quote: Originally posted by HighlandPete But aren't you talking about zone 4 when you talk about rear air conditioning? HighlandPete That's definitely how I read it (I have 4 zone control).
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| 7788521 (435hp) | So, I read all this tread and thought: time for a heat test! I just went out for a spin in my F11, it is equipped with 2 zone air conditioning with 2 automatic buttons. Settings: Outside temperature (8°C), inside temperature (22°C), central ventilation on full red (hot). My observation: When the car heats up, hot air comes out of all the air vents! Even from the rear center air vent. But after a while, when the desired temperature is reached, the rear center air vent starts blowing colder air. Which is actually quite normal in my opinion, because the rear foot vents always blow warmer air, so the mixture gives the perfect temperature. But when you increase the temperature to 28°C (max), the rear center air vent starts blowing hot air again. So my conclusion is that when you have 2-zone climate control, the car regulates the temperature in the rear itself, based on your settings in the front. And if you really want to have a different temperature in the back of the car, you should take the option of 4-zone climate control, which makes total sense..
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